MASTER 
NEGATIVE 

NO.  95-82364 


COPYRIGHT  STATEMENT 


The  copyright  law  of  the  United  States  (Title  17,  United  States  Code) 
governs  the  making  of  photocopies  or  other  reproductions  of  copyrighted 
materials  including  foreign  works  under  certain  conditions.  In  addition, 
the  United  States  extends  protection  to  foreign  works  by  means  of 
various  international  conventions,  bilateral  agreements,  and 
proclamations. 

Under  certain  conditions  specified  in  the  law,  libraries  and  archives  are 
authorized  to  furnish  a  photocopy  or  other  reproduction.  One  of  these 
specified  conditions  is  that  the  photocopy  or  reproduction  is  not  to  be 
"used  for  any  purpose  other  than  private  study,  scholarship,  or  research." 
If  a  user  makes  a  request  for,  or  later  uses,  a  photocopy  or  reproduction 
for  purposes  in  excess  of  "fair  use,"  that  user  may  be  liable  for  copyright 
infringement. 

The  Columbia  University  Libraries  reserve  the  right  to  refuse  to  accept  a 
copying  order  if,  in  its  judgement,  fulfillment  of  the  order  would  involve 
violation  of  the  copyright  law. 


Author: 


U.S.  Bureau  of  Foreign 
and  Domestic  Commerce 

Title: 

The  hosiery  industry 


Place: 


Washington,  D.C 

Date: 

1915 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 
PRESERVATION  DIVISION 

BIBLIOGRAPHIC  MICROFORM  TARGET 


ORIGINAL  MATERIAL  AS  FILMED  •    EXISTING  BIBLIOGRAPHIC  RECORD 


ff 


360 
Un3 


'♦.>*- 


/ 


U-.'i.   Buroau  of  foroign  and  domostio  oommeroe* 
• • •  The  ho3iery  industry.  Report  on  the  cost  of 

production  of  hosiery  in  the  United  States.  V/ash- 

ington.  Govt*  print,  off.,  1915« 

268  p.   inol.  diugr«,  chart.   S5oin«   ^Miscollar- 

neous  Qorioa,  no,3l) 

At  head  of  titlet  Department  of  oonmieroe. •# 
Bibliography:  p«256-258* 


0 


RESTRICTIONS  ON  USE: 


MASTER   NEGATIVE   # 


TECHNICAL  MICROFORM  DATA 


FILM  SIZE:       3>^m«/> 


REDUCTION  RATIO: 


na 


IMAGE  PLACEMENT:   lA    (ha)    IB      MB 


DATE  FILMED: 


2.\\S\^^ 


TRACKING  #  : 


AfS//     ^VfegG 


INITIALS: 


W-^ 


FILMED  BY  PRESERVATION  RESOURCES.  BETHLEHEM.  PA. 


J^/ 


A^' 


a^ 


'^. 


> 

DO 
O 

a 


II  o 

IN   CO 

CJl 

OOM 

O 


^^. 


^e: 


3 
3 


> 

o  m 


OQ 
C/) 


< 

N 


M 


a: 


.'^' 


A' 


^, 


<^ 


^. 


_"& 


^^^ 

^^. 
^^. 


^ 


e' 


e^ 


*^: 


=i^ 


A^ 


.V^ 


^i5 


o 
o 

3 
3 


o 

3 
3 


o 
o 

3 
3 


O 


pi^i^iiPi?ig|g|. 


1^  11^  I 


g 


o> 


00 


b 


ro 

In 


1.0  mm 


1.5  mm 


2.0  mm 


AB«  DEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 
abcdef[ihi|klmnopqrstuvwxyz  1234567890 


ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 
abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzl234567890 


ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 

abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 

1234567890 


2.5  mm 


ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 

abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz 

1234567890 


^^ 


tr 


i? 


^ 


A 


/• 


i^ 


■/!> 


A?' 


'^ 


fA? 


c 


.<^^> 

^^-v 


^^"^^^ 


<^ 


-^ 


fo 


^p 


m 

O 

O 
■o  m  "o 

>  C  c*> 

1 7j  ^ 

0(/)     ; 

m 

3D 

o 

m 


w. 


m 


'^ 


Cf 


4ft 


3 
3 


if 

s 


O 

3 
3 


3  X 


f/3 
>c 


'  i' 


DEPARTMENT    OF    COMMERCE 

BUREAU  OF  FOREIGN  AND  DOMESTIC  COMMERCE 

E.  E.  PRATT.  Chief  SEP     -'  ^    1923 


MISCELLANEOUS  SERIES-No.  31 

T  TTPJTJ 11  W^^ 

SCHOOL  OF  BUSINESS 

THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY 


REPORT  ON  THE  COST  OF  PRODUCTION  OF 
HOSIERY  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 
1915 


(Columbia  Winiixviitv 

mttjeCttpof  ^etogorfe      y 


\ 


LIBRARY 


School  of  Business 


DEPARTMENT    OF    COMMERCE 

BUREAU  OF  FOREIGN  AND  DOMESTIC  COMMERCE 

E.  E.  PRATT,  Chief 


MISCELLANEOUS   SERIES-No.  31 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY 


REPORT  ON  THE  COST  OF  PRODUCTION  OF 
HOSIERY  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 

1915 


lil 


'»; 


CONTENTS. 


ADDITIONAL  COPIES 

OF  THIS  PUBUCATION  MAY  BE   PROCURED  FROM 

THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF  DOCUMENTS 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTIN«i  OFFICE 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

AT 

25  CENTS  PER  COPY 


CO  ■ 


3) 


Ur^■3 


.\ 


Letter  of  submittal ^^^' 

Introduction ' 

The  hosiery  and  knit-goods  industries ' .  '\ g 

Scope  and  method  of  investigation 34 

Summary 

Capital,  profit,  and  turnover 00 

Cost  and  profit  by  groups  of  establishments 35 

Cost  and  profit  by  specified  units 37 

Manufacturing  conditions 00 

Simplified  cost  accounting «« 

Selling  methods ^ 

Hosiery  products ^j 

Hosiery  machinery ^^ 

Losses  from  antiquated  machinery ^ 

Machine  gauges  and  yam  counts ^ 

Manufacturing  processes aa 

Employees ...[[.]...  45 

Wages  and  hours  of  labor ^ 

Imports  of  hosiery ^ 

Exports  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods ^ 

Imports  and  exports  of  hosiery  machinery 40 

Chapter  I. — Capital,  profit,  and  turnover 49 

Manufacturing  and  final  profit qa 

Percentages  of  profit  on  capital  and  net  sales 51 

Higher  profits  on  full-fashioned  hosiery 52 

Varying  profits  according  to  locality 53 

Percentages  of  profit  by  establishments 55 

Profits  earned  by  large  and  small  establishments 53 

Profits  of  full-fashioning  mills 53 

Turnover  of  capital ^g 

Profits  of  mills  using  different  materials go 

Tariff  rates  on  hosiery  of  different  materials qi 

Chapter  II. — Cost  and  profit  by  establishments ^3 

Cost  and  profit  based  on  net  sales ^3 

Percentages  of  specified  items  of  cost gg 

Largest  profits  made  on  full-fashioned  hosiery gg 

Comparative  administrative  and  selling  expense 70 

Percentages  of  cost  and  profit  by  establishments 71 

Cost  based  on  manufacturing  and  selling  expense 82 

Factors  in  successful  manufacturing 55 

Establishments  with  highest  percentages  of  profit 85 

Profits  not  dependent  on  low  labor  cost 90 

Establishments  operating  at  a  loss. 91 

Direct  and  indirect  labor  combined gg 

Labor  cost  and  import  duties 99 

Wages  and  cost  of  materials 99 

Conditions  under  tariff  acts  of  1897  and  1909 100 

8 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 


Chapter  III.-  Cost  and  profit  by  specified  units 104 

Cost  and  profit  of  units  sold  to  retailers 104 

Cost  and  profit  of  units  sold  to  jobbers 122 

Cost  and  profit  by  grades 123 

Cost  of  materials  in  units 125 

Cost  of  direct  labor  in  units 142 

Chapter  IV.— Manufacturing  and  selling 146 

Manufacturing  conditions 146 

Large  and  small  factories  contrasted 147 

Efficiency  necessary  for  success 149 

.     Inadequate  cost-finding  methods 150 

Simplified  cost  accounting 153 

The  quantity  method 154 

The  direct  labor  method 155 

The  prime  cost  method 155 

The  dual  method 156 

Selling  methods 158 

Branded  hosiery 159 

Expense  of  selling  to  retailers 160 

Comparative  advantages  of  different  methods 162 

Methods  of  selling  by  establishments 163 

Profits  on  sales  to  retailers  and  jobbers 165 

Profits  as  affected  by  national  advertising 167 

Trade  abuses 168 

Chapter  V.— Products,  machinery,  and  processes 171 

Hosiery  products 171 

Kinds  of  hosiery 171 

History  of  hosiery  styles 171 

Demand  for  seamless  and  full-fashioned  hosiery 172 

Hosiery  improvements 172 

Hosiery  machinery 173 

History 173 

American  development  of  hosiery  machinery 176 

Seamless  knitting  machine 178 

Full-fashioning  knitting  machine 178 

Flat  seamless  knitting  machine 179 

Ribbing  machine 179 

Recent  improvements  in  seamless  ma(  hinery 179 

Looper 181 

Boarding  machine 181 

Cost  of  machinery 182 

Losses  from  antiquated  machinery 182 

Machine  gauges  and  yarn  counts 186 

Needle  spacing 185 

Yam  counts 186 

Yams  commonly  used 187 

Manufacturing  processes 188 

Winding 1^ 

Ribbing 189 

Transferring  or  topping 189 

Knitting 190 

Welting 1«1 

Looping  or  joining 191 


CONTENTS.  5 

Chapter  V. — Products,  machinery,  and  processes — Continued. 

Manufacturing  processes — Continued.  page. 

Seanfing 192 

Inspecting  or  examining  and  mending 192 

Dyeing 192 

Boarding 192 

Pressing 193 

Pairing 193 

Stamping 193 

Ornamenting 193 

Folding 193 

Boxing 194 

Order  of  processes 194 

Chapter  VI. — ^Working  conditions Id5 

Employees 195 

Wages  and  hours  of  labor : 198 

Chapter  VII. — Foreign  trade 218 

Imports  of  hosiery 218 

Rates  of  duty  under  recent  tariff  acts 219 

Imports  during  recent  years 221 

Exports  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods 233 

Imports  and  exports  of  hosiery  machinery 234 

Superiority  of  American  machinery 235 

Exportation  of  American  machines 236 

Suggestions  for  increasing  foreign  trade 237 

Argentina 239 

Austria-Hungary 241 

Brazil 242 

Canada 242 

Chile 243 

China 244 

Colombia 247 

France 247 

Germany 247 

India 249 

Italy 249 

Pern 250 

South  Africa 250 

Sweden 251 

Tasmania 251 

Turkey 251 

United  Kingdom 252 

Venezuela 253 

Imports  into  outlying  territories  and  foreign  American  countries 254 

Chapter  VIII.— Bibliography 256 


LETTER    OF    SUBMITTAL. 


Department  of  Commerce, 
Bureau  op  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce, 

WasJdngtonj  August  20^  1915, 
Sir:  I  beg  to  submit  herewith  a  report  on  the  cost  of  production  of 
hosiery,  which  is  the  second  of  a  series  of  reports  to  be  issued  by  the 
Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce  regarding  the  cost  of 
production  in  different  branches  of  the  clothing  industry. 

This  investigation  was  undertaken  in  accordance  with  the  act  of 
Congress  approved  August  23,  1912.  In  addition  to  the  cost  of 
production,  the  report  contains  information  concerning  imports  and 
exports,  working  conditions,  factory  equipment,  selling  methods,  and 
other  trade  conditions  of  interest  in  coimection  with  the  hosiery 
industry,  and  some  practical  suggestions  with  regard  to  efficient 
factory  management  based  on  interviews  with  manufacturers  and  on 
the  personal  observations  of  the  special  agents. 

According  to  the  Census  of  Manufactures,  the  value  of  the  hosiery 
produced  in  the  United  States  in  the  calendar  year  1909  was 
$68,721,825,  of  which  the  value  of  cotton  hosiery  was  $55,909,987. 
The  importations  of  cotton  hosiery  in  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30, 
1909,  were  valued  at  $6,390,923,  or  11.43  per  cent  of  the  production 
in  the  calendar  year  1909.  Such  importations  during  the  fiscal  year 
1914  amounted  to  $2,949,678,  or  5.28  per  cent  of  the  domestic  pro- 
duction in  1909.  This  percentage  would  undoubtedly  be  much  lower 
if  the  imports  in  1914  were  compared  with  the  domestic  production 
in  that  year. 

During  the  nine  months  from  October  I,  1912,  to  June  30,  1913, 
the  average  rate  of  duty  on  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery,  computed 
on  the  ad  valorem  basis,  was  69.35  per  cent.  During  the  period  from 
October  4,  1913,  when  the  new  tariff  went  into  effect,  to  June  30, 
1914,  a  month  before  the  war  in  Europe  began,  the  average  ad  valorem 
rate  on  such  importations  was  44.6  per  cent.  Nearly  aU  of  the  im- 
portations of  hosiery  are  of  the  cheaper  grades  of  full-fashioned  cotton 
hosiery.  The  production  of  such  hosiery  in  the  United  States  is  small 
as  compared  with  the  production  of  seamless  hosiery.  The  labor 
cost  of  making  full-fashioned  hosiery  is  larger  than  the  labor  cost  of 

7 


8 


LETTER   OF  SUBMITTAL. 


making  seamless  hosiery.  No  tariff  act  has  ever  made  a  distinction 
between  the  rates  of  duty  on  full-fashioned  hosiery  and  those  on 
seamless  hosiery. 

The  statistics  of  exports  do  not  classify  the  exports  of  hosiery 
separately  from  those  of  other  knit  goods,  but  the  exports  of  all  classes 
of  cotton  knit  goods  increased  from  $]  ,016,325  in  the  fiscal  year  1909 
to  $2,546,822  in  the  fiscal  year  1914,  or  over  150  per  cent. 

In  the  investigation  of  the  cost  of  j^roduction  of  hosiery,  reports 
were  secured  from  73  establishments  located  in  16  States.  Some  of 
these  establishments  were  large  and  some  small,  but  all  were  fairly 
representative  of  the  industry.  Their  sales  during  their  last  business 
period,  usually  a  year,  amounted  to  $27,010,893.  Manufacturers 
usually  were  found  to  be  willing  to  furnish  the  information  desired 
in  this  investigation,  but  24  of  thosc^  visited,  of  whom  15  were  in 
Philadelphia,  refused. 

The  concrete  results  of  the  investigation  appear  in  the  summary  of 
this  report  while  the  detailed  information  is  given  in  the  various 
chapters. 

The  general  conduct  of  the  field  work  of  the  investigation  has  been 
under  the  direction  of  Walter  B.  Palmer,  a  special  agent  of  the  Bureau 
of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce.  In  the  field  work  and  in  the 
preparation  of  the  report  he  was  assisted  by  Special  Agents  David  M. 
Barclay,  Joseph  Broido,  Edward  S.  Fawcett,  Harry  Gell,  J.  Knight 
Rector,  Thomas  A.  Williams,  and  Stanley  D.  Winderman.  The 
general  direction  of  the  office  work  and  the  editing  of  the  report  has 
been  in  charge  of  Gustavus  A.  Weber,  expert  in  charge  of  the  cost  of 
production  division,  assisted  by  Henry  J.  Bierman. 

E.  E.  Pratt, 

Ohiff  of  Bureau. 
To  Hon.  William  C  Redfield, 

Secretary  of  Commerce. 


COST  OF  PRODUCTION  IN  THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


INTRODUCTIOir. 
THE  HOSIEBT  AND  KNIT  GOODS  INDTTSTEIES.o 

In  the  value  of  products  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industries 
(considered  as  one  industry)  ranked  thirtieth  among  the  industries 
of  the  United  States  in  1899  and  twenty-seventh  in  1904  and  1909.^ 
The  industry  is  widely  distributed;  in  1909  there  were  one  or  more 
estabhshments  making  hosiery  or  knit  goods  in  38  of  the  48  States. 
Of  the  total  production  in  the  United  States  during  1909,  amounting 
to  $200,143,527,  the  per  cent  produced  in  each  of  the  10  States  with 
the  largest  production  was  as  follows:  New  York,  33.5;  Pennsyl- 
vania, 24.8;  Masssachusetts,  7.4;  Wisconsin,  3.9;  Ohio,  3.2;  Illi- 
nois, 3;  Connecticut,  2.9;  North  Carolina,  2.6;  New  Hampshire,  2.4; 
Michigan,  2.*^ 

The  principal  centers  for  the  manufacture  of  cotton  hosiery  in  the 
United  States  are  Philadelphia  and  Reading,  Pa.  Woolen  hosiery 
is  largely  made  in  New  England.  A  large  proportion  of  the  cotton 
knit  unaerwear  manufactured  in  the  United  States  is  made  in  Utica, 
Amsterdam,  and  other  places  in  the  Mohawk  Valley  in  New  York 
State.  Cohoes,  N.  Y.,  is  an  important  center  for  the  manufacture 
of  woolen  knit  underwear.  New  York  City  is  the  principal  center 
for  the  manufacture  of  bathing  suits.  Little  Falls,  N.  Y.,  is  a  center 
for  both  sweaters  and  cotton  knit  underwear.  In  the  last  few  years 
there  has  been  a  great  increase  in  the  manufacture  of  both  hosiery  and 
knit  underwear  made  of  cotton  in  the  Southern  Atlantic  and  Middle 
Western  States.  Table  1  gives  data  regarding  the  production  in 
various  cities: 

Table  1. — ^Manufacturing   Centers  op   the   Hosiery  and  Knit  Goods  Indus- 
tries, 1904  and  1909. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  vni,p.  125] 


Cities. 


Philadelphia,  Ta. . 
New  York,  N.Y.. 
Amsterdam,  N.  Y. 

Utica,  N.Y 

Cohoes,  N.  Y 

Little  Falls,  N.Y. 
Reading,  Pa 


Value  of  products. 


1909 


1904 


$23,901,699 
12,386,254 
8,158,701 
8.053,844 
5,087,315 
4,464,852 
4,551,087 


$15,770,873 
6,030,721 
4,677,022 
5,261,166 
4,126,873 
2,547,676 
2, 540, 105 


Per  cent  of 

United  States 

total. 


1909 


12.0 
6.2 
4.1 
4.1 
2.6 
2.3 
2.3 


1904 


11.5 
4.4 
3.4 
3,9 
3.0 
1.9 
1.9 


a  In  this  introductory  chapter  describing  the  industry  in  the  United  States  as  a  whole  it  was  not  pos- 
sible to  consider  the  hosiery  mdustry  separately  from  that  of  the  knit  goods  industry  because  in  the  Census 
reports  from  which  the  figures  were  mainly  obtained  these  two  industries  are  group^  together.  The 
other  chapters  of  the  report  relate  to  the  hosiery  industry  only. 

*  Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  VIII,  p.  45. 

cIbid.,Vol.  X,p.  68. 


10 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


INTRODUCTION. 


11 


In  the  reports  of  the  Bureau  of  the  Census  statistics  are  given  of 

^W.P'^  15''^^''''  ""^  ^^''^  t  ^^^  foUowing  classes  of  goods:  flosiery; 
mI^^J       drawers;  combination  suits;  sweaters;  cardigan  jackets 

ti^l  ?-  ^  ^""^  "^^^r^  ^  ^i'''^^ '  ?^^^^  •'  ^^bi^«^  ^^^' ;  «i^a^^s ;  boot  and 
shoe  hnmgs;  yams  for  sale;  and  all  other  products.  Except  as  re- 
gards production,  however,  the  statistics  in  the  reports  of  the  Bureau 
goods^     ^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^  separately  given  for  these  diif«irent  classics  of 

\.Z^^  information  which  follows  regarding  the  manufacture  of  hos- 
iery and  knit  goods  was  compded  from  a  section  of  the  report  of  the 
Census  of  Manufactures  in  1909.« 

Statistics  of  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industries  were  first  ob- 
tained by  the  census  of  1849,  when  85  establishments  were  reported, 
Zt  fl^n^flA  ^  •  r^  ^^  $1,028  102^  In  1859,  197  estabUsLents 
ZXIf^r  f  .^.^^  products  valued  at  $7,280,606.  Table  2  sum- 
f?n^  1  Lq  ?  ^1  nno^'''^  f  ^^^^^  industries  for  each  census  for  40  y<.ars, 
from  1869  to  1909  inclusive.^  The  financial  figures  for  1869  are  given 
in  currencv,  which  at  that  time  was  worth  only  about  80  cents  gold 
to  the  dollar  For  strict  comparison,  therefore,  these  figures  should 
be  reduced  about  20  per  cent.  ;  5  u  uiu 

c  Ji'^'^%'^^?'- '"^  1^09  1,374  establishments  in  the  hosiery  and  knit 
goods  industries,  in  which  136,130  pei-sons  were  engaged,  of  wliom 

was  /^9  Tirfi^rf^^T^ ''"'l-  ^^  ^^^^^^^  P^^^  i^  ^^1^^^^  *^nd  wages 
was  $5^,4dl,b80.     Ihe  value  of  products  was  $200,143,527-  the  cost 

of  materials  $110  241,053,  emial  to  55.1  per  cent  of  W  value  of  prod- 
ucts; and  the  value  added  by  manufacture  was  $89,902  474  Be- 
tween 1899  and  1909  the  number  of  wage  earners  increased  54.5  per 
cent,  while  the  cost  of  materials,  value  of  products,  and  value  added 
by  manufacture  more  than  doubled.  Part  of  the  increase  shown  in 
cost  of  matenals  and  value  of  products,  however,  may  doubtlesn  be 
Attn  bu ted  to  increased  pnces. 

The  growth  of  the  industry  has  been  continuous  throughout  the 
penod  covered  by  Tables  2  and  3,  each  census  showing  a  substantial 
increase  as  compared  with  that  preceding.  The  number  of  estab- 
lishments reported  for  1909  was  more  than  five  times  bs  great  a.,  in 
18b9  and  the  value  of  products  nearly  eleven  times  as  great.  The 
greatest  relative  growth  took  place  during  the  decade  1879-1889,  each 
Item  for  which  comparable  figures  can  be  presented  showing  a  greater 
trT'bf ^^      increase  for  this  decade  than  for  any  other  covered  by 


a  Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  pp.  6&^;  also  separately  issued  as  a  bulletin. 


MiLUONS  or  DOLLARS 

• W 1* 

NEW  YORK 

PiNNSVLVANIA 

MASSACHUSETTS 

iwiSCONSIN 

'oMO 

ILUNOIS 

CONNECTICUT 

NORTH  CAROUNA 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

MICHiOAN 

RHODE  ISLAND 

NEW  JERSEY 

TENNESSEE 

QEORQIA 

VIROINIA 

INOUNA 

MINNESOTA 

VERMONT 

MARYLAND 

COUTH  CAROUNA 

Pio.  1. — ^Value  of  the  products  of  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods  industries  in  the  more  important  States, 

1899  and  1909. 


9  fS,OM,000  to  M.ooe.ooo 

3  tl.Oai,000  to  $3,000,000 

o  tumjm  to  tt,ooo.ooo 

O  Lev  than  tl,000,00t 


FiQ.  2.— Distribution  of  the  value  of  products  of  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods  industries,  by  States,  1909. 


■  I  n^^Tigj 


mi^et^£uaammimtaii>4 


12 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


Table  2. — General  Statistics  op  the  Hosiery  and   Knit-Goods   Industries 

Census  Y'ears  18()9-1909.  ' 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  67.] 


Items. 


Number  of  establishments.. 
Persons  engaged  In  the  in- 
dustry   

Proprietors    and    firm 

members 

Salaried  employees 

Wage  earners  (average 

niunber) 

Primary  horsepower 

Capital 

Expenses 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Materials 

Miscellaneous 

Value  of  products 

Value  added  by  manufac- 
ture (value  of  products 
less  cost  of  materials) 


1909 


1,374 

136,130 

1,134 
5,721 

129, 275 

103,709 

$163,641,171 

175,  729, 583 

52,431,680 

7,691,457 

41,740,223 

110,241,053 

13, 056, 850 

200,143,527 


89, 902, 474 


1904 


1,144 

109,489 

1,067 
4,330 

104,092 

78,  769 

$106,943,072 

123,276,675 

36, 069,  758 

4, 455, 151 

31,614,607 

76, 789, 348 

10,417,569 

137,076,454 


60,287,106 


1899 


1,006 

(«) 

(«) 
2,831 

83,691 

57, 346 

$82  0(55,517 

8)  ;W5,367 

27  .-.72,657 

;5,  138, 160 

21,  134,497 

51   195,330 

•).t.27,380 

95^  ^33, 692 


44,(138,362 


1889 


824 
(«) 

(°) 

(«) 

b  59, 774 

34,564 

$.50, 686, 206 

57,922,723 

18, 325, 261 

(«) 
(o) 

35,949,865 

3, 647, 597 

67,446,788 


31,496,923 


1879 


398 

6  30,699 
11,561 
$15,732,291 
(o) 

6.839,195 

(«) 
(a) 

15.449,991 

(«) 
29,613,581 


14.163,590 


18fl0 


248 

(«) 

(«) 
(«) 

b  14, 788 

6,498 

$10,931,260 

(«) 
4,429,085 

(«) 
(«) 
9, 8;ir),  823 

(«) 

18,411,564 


8,575,741 


a  Comparable  figiires  not  available. 

b  Figures  not  strictly  comparable  with  those  for  later  years. 

Table  3. — Growth  of  the  Hosiery  and  Knit-Goods  Industries  in  the  Census 
Years  1869  to  1909,  Expressed  in  Percentages. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  67.] 


I  terns 

Per  cent  of  increa.se.o 

1899-1909 

1904-1909 

21  1 

24  3 

6.3 

32  1 

24  2 
31  7 
63  0 
42  5 
45.4 
72  6 
41  5 
43.6 

25  3 
46.0 

49.1 

1899-1904 

1889-1899 

1879-1889 

1869  1879 

Number  of  establishments 

36.6 

13.7 

22.1 

107.0 

60.5 

Persons  engaged  in  the  industry 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  employees 

102.1 
54.5 
80.8 
99.4 

105.8 
90.2 

145.1 
83.1 

115.3 
97.0 

108.8 

101.4 

52.9 
24.4 
37.4 
30.3 
44.4 
30.8 
42.0 
29.4 
50.0 
57.2 
43.0 

35.1 

Wage  earners  (average  number) 

Primary  horsepower 

65.9 
61.9 

47.4 
50.5 

199.0 
222.2 

77.9 
43.9 

Capital 

Expenses 

Ser\  ices 

167.9 

54.4 

Salaries 

Wages 

Materials 

42.4 
81.7 
42.1 

41.7 

132.7 

57.1 

Miscellaneous 

Value  of  products 

127.8 
122.4 

60.8 
65.2 

Value  added  by  manufacture  (value  of 
products  less  cost  of  materials) 

a  Where  percentages  are  omitted,  comparable  figures  are  not  available. 

Table  4  summarizos,  by  States,  the  more  important  statistics  of 
the  industries,  the  States  being  arrangid  according  to  the  value  of 
products  reported  for  1909. 

Of  the  10  leadmg  States  in  1909  on  the  basis  of  value  of  products, 
North  Carohna  showed  the  largest  percentage  of  increase  from  1899 
to  1909  (403.6).  Still  higher  percentages  of  increase,  however,  are 
shown  for  Tennessee  and  Minnesota.  Vermont  and  South  Carolina 
are  the  only  States  which  show  a  decrease  in  value  of  products  between 
1904  and  1909. 

'  The  diagram  (fig.  l,p.  11)  shows  graphically  the  value  of  products 
reported  for  the  most  important  States  in  the  industries  in  1909  and 
1899,  and  the  map  (fig.  2,  p.  11)  shows  the  distribution  of  the  value 
of  products,  by  States,  for  1909. 


INTRODUCTION. 


13 


P5^ 

<1S 


05    „ 


HO 


OS 


OObH 
M    nr     r? 


CO 

9 


)^ 


QOi    g 


§Z 


d 


>  •*£ 

H    Q      g 

S  w  I 

i 

m 


o 

OQ 


I 

OQ 


IS 

1 

■m 

1 


IS 


CO 

u 

3 
-O 
o 
It 

p< 
o 

3 

•a 
> 


IS 


00  "J 


^1 

oo2 


csTj<e<500QOcoecQOOcoO'^'^oot-co05'^^^.-4 


i-lrH  i-H  eO  I   1—1        ,-1  ( 


s 


i-lOSO«00»«Oi-l«OOJeO'»<OeOt>--^0>OOQOO»«ft'rU5 


I         I 


U3  .-<  «C  C>»  C^  f  i«  CO  O  00 »^  «  t^ <-<  PS  QO  C>«  00  Tfi  ■^     •     •»-< 


00  O  O  05  CC  35  f '-' CO  •^  ■*  "5  00  00 -^  <-i -^        00  O 

l-H  ».<  l-H  CS  i^  CC  1-IOO^H  ■«»<      I    ^H  1-1 


> 


00  i2 
1-1  "^ 


ic»«0"30«e*ooooeoooaooc«ob«N-«i«Tf<Ne»5 


§5§ 


c<>ooc^05<NCs«c5aic^wc<«050co«ao»cio 
loojio  o  e«3  •^  »o  f»N  T  ^  00  ■^^  Oi      — - 


n 


00 1^ 


c^ 


«oo 


^   I 


0>C4 


^<  1—1 


O«oo>'«»<0'^oicio««ooo6»-<'«tie<)i-(eo«ccot^ 

c6r>^oo5o6i--^05i-!«rfoJoso»5^eo«ceNic<?oiaC!Si-5 
Tftocoic     o  1— I  i-i  1-t -^  1-1  ro  1-1 -^  00  »-<  N  «  OS  ^  lO 

II 


ooa 

1-4  '^ 


W^O>l^05t~»i9'COt^-^0500«OcO-»*aO»-H350i.H 


^8 


oo 


i-iNir505eo»cO'9'-HeogJc<'*»-<i^'j'aot>. 

Ol  i-t  O  CO  Tf<  O  00  ■W  »-i  Q  CO  <»        Tf<        C«cO 


1-1  i-ip»  C0 1-1 


I  ^  I 


§ 

o 


a> 


ooS 

^^  1^ 


co>j^cooo-^30ooo500ooioc«e^Mt-»oso-^i~- 


oo 
fi  CO 


Nioi'*c«i-<roi-ic>»  i«co      -NO^Sia 


05t^ 


■■O 


:  I 


Tt<  CO 

csiec 


'<ri~»u3-^^HOC«tC-Hioe<aocfc-«'i-'eot-t^Ot>-eo 
e4    ■a5-i"t>^»oe<>t^coc4e^'-4:oc>i— <co--oQ-HQe>i 

II  I  I 


OOXi0000OO»OcD-^!Nl~OT-<d-<O.-ii3il>- 


eot^ 


oocoi-tOJeof«c-Hi 

TJ1  «5c*"5       -^04       1 
1-1  CS) 


l-.fOt^r^'^05050S< 

I  C0 1—1  M  ic      •^  ( 

ifi.-1    I     I  o»    I       1 


>o 


I 


tf 


»He«eO'^coo»'Oi-iaot>.c^ot^'<if«'5coaoco 


S—iNweSc^Nw 


o 


ss 


OS 

a- 
< 


i-ic*eO'*t~co»ooooi-HTroco'Cr^c»coooo»-^ 


c5S?5«NNN 


^ 


o 

CO 


o 

CO 


00 


cooco-'jioso^ii'-fpicow  co»0'-<coeot^»oircocoe«i»-HNrtt^" 

1-J 
CO 


^U5oO->J<C<«eoeOC40IO«»-iC>« 


»fti50JC0C«C^»Ot--«>«iC>C0.^t^.~<;C're<IOO»«00«~^c£»Ci-iO 

eji2»Ho5^t^'»<os"«"OJeocc— <oci'5aco<c^i^i-.'^cooo»c--C'»ro 

0>ift'«<-HOC0i-^C0-*'?"C0C0C^— ^;0iCC0c0-H'»i'C0C030a00CO0S 

if5coco>ooo-Hiocoe5ooc>«oc->**a5co>siftt^esii^iccooicO'^o 
■^Tjii^osot>.r^-Hi-(0>'^05'^eoa»Tj»i-«cO'^coo<eii-(i-i.-i     co 

Qo'c;fr^coci'c«fc>fcvfeirH'F4~^"FH~t-r     ^"^ 


tf 


tFHCieo>i3cooO'*c<t>-osOi-ir^oC'^»ooocooo»i-i5«»C'v 


8.^S?S<NSSrt 


i-iC<icO"«'iocot^ooo>Oi-ic>»eO'*»ocot~ooa50c<»co'V5?oos 

.M^^i-l.-4tM^^^^C46)Csi?4P4C45) 


r 


«ooo'<9<<3>c>»oaico-«<ooso5oocc^e<i.HO»cosofoc<i«SN«oi     cc~ 
eo^rCeoe«5soeic4oiei»-<i-4^i-<'.Mi-J^ ^  ' 


;ioa5»Ht--.c><c<»osioc<»T^ocoi^05'»'Oooooi^aso^cc 
)2joococoo30i-^oo5-^cocJX'^a5i^c^-r25i-x?ioxM 
)Oco-<»"t^ccco-.4r-it~-.c<»'«»>xi^e>jcccorococo5C5i^oo»H 


!>-»■«»<  t^co«0"5»0'»'Tt«  CO  eoeoeoesic»ic<.Hf-i 

CO  '^'i.^ 


tf 


i-ie»eo'»j»040u5t^ooco»0'^co-H4s«co-Hoo05t^c^Tf"cocc550 
1-1  ^H  ^H  ^H  ^^  *.<  »H  c>«  ^H 1-1 1-<  e<»  e<<  esj  5i  Jn  CO 


c<THeo»ot>»ocO'^ooe<)U5eoo»i-i«0'^t>-osoooe<«.'j{ot^toa5 


•<       3      ' 


00cOl^C0T}<c0C0O'«'O''j»0S'.i}<i-iJ0i0  00t»00CO>QC>)'^i-lC4        of" 

£^  a  t>^  CO  c4  c4  oi '<9?  c4  C4  •H 1-4  cj  ci  •H 1-4 ;2^  ' 


g32!^S3'^®'i2J''''^^'^f^"5coo«coc»os-Hooes'^-.4ic^^ 
-^SS;'2S"''^'^"so»'»»it^Q^'^-^co>0'^c>»co-^ooii^''?'9'oo 

0SC<^C4i^0S?0»-(»-iU5l~-u5-HI--l^05O0JO00c0eH^'^C*       T^ 

igooorTpcoe>fcou3~coc<f-H"csrco"N-^"-H  r^*"     .-T  ^ 


S  i4  OS'S  35 


(■^lOf-ittCOi— <C^i— iU5t>.l'-.CIO»— 4iOOOO'-<t^COCO'V^H-^»Ot>- 

CO  CO  CO  eo  ■«<  N  CO  N  c6 -H  CO  (Si  CI  — I      ;^      ,-i      ^^  ^^  ^  ^  ^  ■« ;_ 


OQ 


C3.i3 

3J3 
•-H  I/, 


3  ®       •   •■So  a  •  S  >i 

>  3  en  o 
I>  g  CO  CO 


03 


:-2^§d"e§  .  .  ... ^ 

X3'^--4ii      2  ijc.G  5®;=-r-j=:o3Ss 


08 

.3 

"o        .    . 

■5  S  05.2  £ 


to  p 

O 


to 

e 

02 

J3 


04 


OJ 


00 


:b 


.0 

I 

■s 

s 

3 

I 


o 
w 

o 

3 

o 

9 


1^ 

eo 


•a 


(^  —  r  ^  >:^  ►y  "^  n*  ►^  r^  rN  .^   3  «*  k^  "^  .9  ^  -'*' 


CO 

so 
o 


3 


SI 

as 


-^  ♦J 
♦»  o 

co- 
in 03 

2,  3 

■3 

10—5 

.«  ;» 
CC  ^ 

03  C 

J2-3 

1^ 

"*  o 
3.2 
^-O 
C*J 
.3  3 

09   O 

-X5 
3.- 

eg 
®  - 

e3  e 

e  ac 

« .3 

o 

.  3 


3 


®  !3 

*^  ^'^ 
O  «,„ 

J.  If 

»  3 
— I  «  o 

2  >.3 

.S  ^-^ 

3  fc  » 
3  C  to 


14 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTBY. 


INTRODUCTION. 


15 


Table  5  shows  in  some  detail  the  products  of  the  hosiery  and  knit- 
goods  industries  in  the  United  States  during  the  census  years  1909, 

Table  5— Quantity  and  Value  op  Hosiery  and  Knit  Goods  Produced  in  1899 
iyu4,  and  1909,  and  Per  Cent  op  Increase  prom  1899  to  1909. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  79.) 


Table  5.— Quantity  and  Value  of  Hosiery  and  Knit  Goods  Produced  in  1899 
1904,  AND  1909,  and  Per  Cent  op  Increase  from  1899  to  1909— Continued.      ' 


Hosiery: 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Cotton,  merino,  and  woolen- 
Hose— 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Cotton — 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Mo'ino  or  mixed — 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Woolen  or  worsted- 
Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Half  hose— 

Dozenpairs 

Value 

Cotton — 

Dozenpairs 

Value 

Mwino  or  mixed — 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Woolen  or  worsted — 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

SUk- 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Shirts  and  drawers: 

Dozens 

Value 

All  cotton — 

Dozens 

Value \[".[." 

Merino  or  mixed — 

Dozens 

Value " 

All  wool — 

Dozens 

Value 

Silk  and  silk  mixed- 
Dozens 

Value 

Combination  suits: 

Dozens 

Value [ 

All  cotton — 

Dozens 

Value 

Merino  or  mixed — 

Dozens 

Value ] ' " 

All  wool — 

Dozens 

Value 

Silk  or  silk  mixed- 
Dozens 

Value 

Sweaters,  cardigan  jackets,  etc.: 

Dozens 

Value 

Gloves  and  mittens: 

Dozen  pairs 

Value 

Hoods,  scarfs,  nubias,  etc. : 

Dozens 

Value 


62,825,069 
168,721,825 


34,499,562 
$37,903,011 

32,499,104 
134,078,622 

834,029 
S1,4H6,283 

1,166,429 
12,358,106 

27,891,093 
127,218,398 

24,80.5,917 
$21,831,365 

2,023,641 
$3,299,912 

1,061,535 
$2,087,121 

434,414 
$3,600,416 

25,337,779 
$69,592,817 

22,567.121 
$50,007,598 

2,536.473 
$17,055,624 

178. 163 
$1,820,521 

56,022 
$709,074 

2,473,103 
$14,853,536 

2,047.637 
$9,713,597 

364,387 
$4,217,432 

50,102 
$688,289 

10, 977 
$239, 218 

2,221,410 
$22,430,817 

2,527,889 
$7,296,887 

888.223 
$3, 21V,  983 


44,186,063 
$44,113,260 


25, 999, 813 
$26,152,043 

24, 169, 804 
$22,764,799 

746,226 
$1, 182, 164 

1,083,783 
$2,205,080 

18, 144, 185 
$17,438,914 

15,223,243 
$11,821,830 

1,611,066 
$2,214,678 

1,309,876 
$3,402,406 

42,065 
$522,303 

19,723,141 
$56,643,860 

17,107,958 
$39,658,762 

2,113,810 
$13,031,754 

485,328 
$3,647,934 

16,045 
$305,410 

1,440,420 
$6,793,947 

1,260,301 

$4,478,664 

105,242 
$1,199,949 

68,067 
$965, 132 

6,810 
$150,202 

811,629 
$8,345,369 

2,260,508 
$5,556,260 


589,315 
$1,774,862 


o  A  minus  sign  (-)  denotes  decrease. 


29,903,899 
$27,420,029 


16,641,769 
$16,203,372 

15,028,173 
$13,275,732 

436,  S91 
$659, 959 

1, 176, 705 
$2,267,681 

13,249,558 
$11,030,244 

11,352,081 
$7,906,945 

957,520 
$1,384,764 

939,957 
$1,738,535 

12,572 
$186,413 

15,873,700 
$45,675,594 

12,058,431 
$26,882,902 

2,675,416 
$13,293,829 

1,085,046 
$4,980,818 

54,807 
$518,045 

986,865 
$3,691,847 

824,632 
$2,240,566 

139,994 
$1,133,328 

9,501 
$201,667 

12,728 
$116,286 

594,090 
$3,498,837 

1,898,587 
$4,241,046 

343,429 
$1,002,392 


Per  cent. 
110. 1 
150.6 


107.3 
133.9 

116.3 
156.7 

90.9 
122.2 

-  .9 
4.0 

110.5 
146.8 

118.5 
176.1 

11L3 
138.3 

12.9 
20.1 

3,355.4 
1,831.4 

59.6 
52.4 

87.1 
86.0 

-  5.2 
28.3 

-83.6 
-63.4 

2.2 
36.9 

150.6 
302.3 

148.3 
333.5 

160.3 
272.1 

427.3 

238.8 

-13.8 
105.7 

272.9 
54L1 

33.1 
71.9 

158.6 
221.0 


Products. 

1909 

1904 

1899 

Increase, 
1899-1909 

Shawls: 

Dozens 

218,923 
$916,294 

9,726,770 
$1,209,464 
$1,785,531 

7,457,412 
$1,568,417 

488,322 

$217, 114 

o  $10, 118,371 

435,306 
$1,293,348 

11,768,961 
$1,249,401 
$1,000,083 

3,304,615 
$654,234 

491,559 

$345,849 

$10,306,064 

157,622 
$328,720 

10,406,440 

$2,205,003 

$498, 790 

2,419,282 
$422,100 

134,529 

$76,690 

$7,268,434 

Per  cent. 
38.9 
178.7 

-  6.5 

-45.1 

258.0 

206.2 
27L6 

263.0 

183.1 

39.2 

Value 

Boot  and  shoe  linings: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Yams  for  sale 

Cotton- 
Pounds  

Value 

Woolen,  worsted,  and  merino — 

Pounds 

Value 

All  other  products 

Total  value 

b$200  143  527    c*i57  ma  ACiA 

$95,833,692 

108.8 

a  Includes  products  to  the  value  of  $1,028,907,  the  character  of  which  pertains  to  the  following  industries- 
Boxes,  fancy  and  paper;  clothing,  men's,  includmg  shirts;  clothing,  women's;  dveing  and  finishing  tex- 
tiles; fancy  articles,  not  elsewhere  specified;  gloves  and  mittens,  leather;  hats  arid  caps,  other  than  felt 
straw,  and  wool;  instruments,  professional  and  scientific;  photographic  apparatus  and  materials;  waste' 
and  woolen,  worsted,  and  felt  goods,  and  wool  hats. 

XI.*  1°,?^*^*^°'^'  hosiery  and  knit  goods  to  the  value  of  $2,975,749  were  made  in  1909  by  establishments  in 
the  followmg  mdustries:  Boots  and  shoes,  rubber;  clothing,  men's,  including  shirts;  clothing,  women's- 
cotton  goods,  mcluding  cotton  small  wares;  gloves  and  mittens,  leather;  hats  and  caps,  other  than  felt' 
straw,  and  wool;  millinery  and  lace  goods;  silk  and  silk  goods,  including  throwsters;  woolen,  worsted,  amd 
felt  goods,  and  wool  hats.  In  1904  products  to  the  value  of  $1,579,633  were  made  by  establishments  not 
engaged  prunarily  in  the  manufacture  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

Of  the  total  value  of  products  of  the  industry  in  1909,  that  of 
hosiery  constituted  34.3  per  cent;  that  of  shirts,  drawers,  and  com- 
bination suits,  42.2  per  cent;  that  of  sweaters,  cardigan  jackets,  etc., 
11.2  per  cent;  that  of  gloves  and  mittens,  3.6  per  cent;  and  that  of 
all  other  products,  8.6  per  cent.  In  the  case  of  each  of  the  classes  of 
hosiery,  as  well  as  of  shirts  and  drawers  and  combination  suits,  the 
cotton  product  predominated  as  to  both  quantity  and  value. 

Of  the  total  value  of  the  hosiery  manufactured  in  1909,  $68,721,825, 
cotton  hosiery  amounted  to  $55,909,987,  or  81.35  per  cent;  merino  or 
mixed  hosiery  to  $4,766,195,  or  6.94  per  cent;  woolen  or  worsted 
hosiery  to  $4,445,227,  or  6.47  per  cent;  and  silk  hosiery  to  $3,600,416, 
or  5.24  per  cent. 

Of  the  total  value  of  the  cotton  hosiery  manufactured  in  1909, 
$55,909,987,  hose  amounted  to  $34,078,622,  or  60.95  per  cent,  and 
half  hose  to  $21,831,365,  or  39.5  per  cent. 

Of  the  total  value  of  the  merino  or  mixed  hosiery  manufactured  in 
1909,  $4,766,195,  hose  amoimted  to  $1,466,283,  or  30.76  per  cent, 
and  half  hose  to  $3,299,912,  or  69.24  per  cent. 

Of  the  total  value  of  the  woolen  or  worsted  hosiery  produced  in 
1909,  $4,445,227,  hose  amounted  to  $2,358,106,  or  53.5  per  cent,  and 
half  hose  to  $2,087,121,  or  46.95  per  cent. 

During  the  10  years  from  1899  to  1909  the  production  of  hosiery 
increased  in  value  150.6  per  cent;  cotton  hose,  156.7  per  cent;  cotton 
half  hose,  176.1  percent;  merino  or  mixed  hose,  122.2  percent;  merino 
or  mixed  half  hose,  138.3  per  cent;  woolen  or  worsted  hose,  4  per 
cent;  woolen  or  worsted  half  hose,  20.1  per  cent;  silk  hose  and  half 
hose,  1,831.4  per  cent. 


16 


THE   HOSIERY   1  iVDUSTRY. 


Table  6  shows  the  different  products  of  the  hosiery  industry  in 
1909,  1904,  and  1899,  by  States: 

Table  6.— Quantity  of  Hosiery  Produced,  by  States,  During  1899,  1904,  and 

1909,  AND  Value  op  the  Product  in  1909. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  81.] 


Products  and  States. 


Hosiery. 


Connecticut 

Georgia 

Massachusetts. . . 

Michigan 

New  Hampshire. 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

Virginia 

Wisconsin 

All  other  States. 


Cotton . 


Connecticut 

Georgia 

Illinois 

Massachusetts 

New  Hampshire. 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

North  Carolina. . 

Pennsylvania 

Virginia 

Wisconsin 

All  other  States., 


Hose. 


Georgia 

Illinois 

Massachusetts... 

New  Jersey 

North  Carolina. . 
Pennsylvania... 

Wisconsin 

All  other  states. 


Half  hose. 


Georgia 

Illinois 

Massachusetts... 
North  Carolina. . 
Pennsylvania... 

Wisconsin 

All  other  states. 

Woolen  or  worsted . . 


Connecticut 

New  Hampshire. 

Pennsylvania 

Wisconsin 

All  other  States. 


Merino  or  mixed . 


New  Hampshire. 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

All  other  States. 


Silk. 


Pennsylvania... 
All  other  States. 


Value,  1009. 


$68,721,825 


1,109,617 

2,389,012 

4,780,351 

1,419,432 

3, 164,. 589 

1,603,231 

639, 185 

664.128 

30,847,344 

522,282 

3,806,117 

17, 776,  .537 


Quantity. 


1909 


Dozen  pairs. 
62,825,069 


55,909,987 


302 

2,389 

2,914 

3,734 

984 

735 

264 

4,100 

28,697 

522 

2,935 

8,339 


,1)49 
,012 
,121 
,618 

243 
,731 
,720 
.«i89 
,548 
,282 
.926 

048 


34,078,622 


1,018,086 
1,729,376 
2,801,323 
626,199 
2,877,922 
16,058,169 
1,774,409 
7,193,138 


21,831,366 


1,370,926 
1,184,745 
9a3,  295 
1,222,767 
12,639,379 
1,161,517 
3,318,736 


4,445,227 


420,639 

1,589,567 

805.726 

350,  H36 

1,278,461 


4,766,195 


590, 779 

504,  939 

163,ti66 

3,518,811 


3,600,416 


560,100 

3,726,330 

4,506,960 

605,589 

2,681,273 

850,932 

355,687 

400,275 

27,832,601 

715,807 

2,373,261 

18,216,254 


1904 


Dozen  pairs. 
44, 186, 0(i3 


672,242 
1,880,495 
'J,790,m) 

356, 459 
2,300,948 
1,101,536 

233,697 

411,817 
20,327,710 

561,484 

1,673,731 

11,875,084 


1H99 


Dozen  pairs. 
29,903,899 


57,305,021    39,393,047 


97, 616 

3,726,330 

3,069,634 

4,280,266 

1, 186, 912 

752, 452 

280,383 

5,806,140 

27, 139, 582 

715, 807 

2,042,952 

8, 206, 947 


29,529 

1,880,495 

1,861,140 

2,556,261 

1,043,153 

1,090,511 

194,564 

2,928,032 

19,707,227 

561,484 

1,449,096 

6,091,555 


32,499,104 


1,226,235 
1,188,667 
3,506,546 
656, 239 
3,879,392 
13,876,893 
1,143,366 
7,021,766 


24,805,917 


2,500,095 
1,880,967 

773,720 

1,926,748 

13,262,689 

899,586 
3,562,112 


2,227,964 


232,629 
991, 105 
429,918 
128,894 
446,418 


2,857,670 


503,256 

323, 948 

118,604 

1,911,862 


434,414 


1,190,405 
2,410,011 


145,497 
288,917 


24,169,804 


602,388 
504,304 

2,118,093 
949,862 

1,950,578 
11,769,534 

1,337,595 

4,937,450 


15,223,243 


1,278,107 

1,356,836 
438,168 
977, 454 

7,937,693 
111,501 

3,123,484 


2,393,659 


164,679 
600,706 
502, 226 
187,876 
938, 172 


2,357,292 


657,089 

239, 162 

97,222 

1,363,819 


42,065 


21,035 
21,030 


393,111 

1,195,362 

2,363,872 

445,612 

1,592,267 

794,926 

160,272 

233,716 

15,232,324 

360,300 

657,866 

6,474,271 


26,380,254 


95,818 

1,194,772 

1,662,150 

2,255,341 

559, 439 

757,836 

78,248 

1,069,431 

14, 858,  .506 

355,800 

347,614 

3,145,299 


15,028,173 


400,427 
469,000 

2,031,921 
694, 195 
726,094 

7,863,561 
256,586 

2,586,389 


11,352,081 


794,345 

1, 193, 150 

'223,420 

343,337 

6,994,945 

91,028 

1,711,856 


2,116,662 


171,211 

784,891 
207,200 
124,265 
829,095 


1,394,411 


247,937 
105,000 
160,618 
880, 85« 


12,572 


6,000 
6,672 


INTRODUCTION. 


17 


Of  the  total  value  of  hosiery  manufactured  in  the  United  States  in 
1909,  $68  721,825,  Pennsylvania  produced  44.89  per  cent;  Massachu- 
setts, 6.96  per  cent;  Wisconsin,  5.54  per  cent;  New  Hampshire  4  60 
per  cent;  Georgia,  3.48  per  cent.  New  York,  the  leading  State  in  the 
knit-underwear  industry,  produced  only  0.93  per  cent  of  the  total 
production  of  hosiery. 

In  the  quantity  of  production  of  all  kinds  of  hosiery  the  greatest 
percentage  of  increase  during  the  decade  1899-1900  was  mkde  bv 
Wisconsin,  260.8  per  cent,  followed  by  Georgia,  211.7  per  cent. 

Ut  the  total  value  of  the  cotton  hosiery  manufactured  in  the  United 
States  in  1909,  $55,909,987,  Pennsylvania  produced  51.33  per  cent- 
North  Carolina,  7.33  per  cent,  Massachusetts,  6.68  per  cent-  Wis- 
consin  5.25  per  cent;  Illinois,  5.21  per  cent;  Georgia,  4.27  per  cent 

In  the  quantity  of  production  of  cotton  hosiery  the  greatest  per- 
centage of  increase  during  the  decade  1899-1900  was  made  bv  Wis- 
consm  487.7  per  cent,  followed  by  North  Carolina,  442  9  per  dent 

In  the  manufacture  of  woolen  and  worsted  hosiery  New  Hampshire 
is  the  leadmg  State.  In  1909  it  produced  35.76  per  cent  of  the  total 
production,  $4,445,227. 

In  the  manufacture  of  merino  or  mixed  hosiery  also  New  Hamn- 
shire  is  the  leading  State.  In  1909  it  produced  12.40  per  cent  of  the 
total  production,  $4,766,195.  ^ 

In  the  manufacture  of  silk  hosiery  Pennsylvania  is  the  leading 
$3^600  416  produced  33.06  per  cent  of  the  total  production^ 

1QnQ^^^Q^7  ^""a  ?cn^n''Ti^^  geographic  divisions,  for  the  censuses  of 
1909  1904,  and  1899,  the  output  of  hosiery,  of  shirts  and  drawers  of 
combination  suits,  of  cardigan  jackets,  sweaters,  etc.,  and  of  gloVes 
and  mittens,  and  the  value  of  aU  other  products  in  the  hosiery  and 
knitgoods  industries.  -^ 

The  Middle  Atlantic  division  is  the  leading  division  in  the  manu- 
tacture  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  as  measured  by  total  value  of  prod- 
ucts, and  also  ranks  first  in  the  production  of  each  class  of  products 
shown  separately  in  the  table.  The  New  England  division  ranked 
second  m  the  total  value  of  products  in  1909,  the  East  North  Central 
third,  and  the  South  Atlantic  fourth.    The  South  Atlantic  division 

a7u^'''a  ''^''^^^  ^^^""f "?  ^^  ^^^^  "^  ^^^  quantity  of  hosiery  output 
and  third  m  that  of  shirts  and  drawers,  showing  increases  of  221  5 
per  cent  and  53.2  per  cent,  respectively,  for  the  decade.  In  1899  the 
New  England  division  outranlced  the  South  Atlantic  in  the  quan- 
tity of  hosiery  production,  but  by  1904  it  had  dropped  to  third  place 
w  .  x/^Tn  •  J^^  industry  is  comparatively  unimportant  in  the 
West  North  Central,  the  two  South  Central,  and  the  fountain  and 
i;acihc  divisions,  but  high  percentages  of  increase  for  the  decade  are 
shown  for  all  these  divisions. 

The  principal  statistics  secured  by  the  census  inquiry  concerning 
and  10^^^^^  ^""^  knitting  miUs  are  presented,  by  States,  in  Tables  9 

1)963°— 15 2 


-fc^..^^-  i-m  Ml    ^1  ■  ^haftg 


18 


D 
P 
ca 

E  O    j= 


o 

I— 1 

Hi 
< 

Q 
< 

> 

Tt*" 

o 

l-l 

05 

iz: 

I—t 

< 

^ 

Oi 

KB 
H 

Oi 
00 
I— I 

P 

:?; 

U 

M 

o 

^ 

ta 

OD 

PL| 

;? 

o 

ij 

H4 

< 

«J 

> 

1-4 

Q 

t-l 

p:: 

h) 

Ai 

o 

05 

<< 

» 

« 

M 

n 

H 

t-4 

o 

H 

H 

;? 

o 

<! 

& 

;h 

o* 

n 

0 

•- 
02 

^ 

Q 

<1 

O 

o 

w 

t3 

o 

H) 

H 

-< 

HH 

:<5 

17) 

H 

w 

O 

z 

& 

«< 

Q 

O 

« 

Ph 

1^ 

O 

H 

P 

■^ 

<J 

> 

H) 

< 

H 

O 

H 

• 

H 

h) 

m 

•«j 

H 

THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTBY. 


OS 


s? 


> 


WOO  OS 

■^  »c  eo 

•>.       »*        •s 

t»eoeo 

I-H  f-H  !-« 


CJ 


e^ 


8a>  '■'s     t^  cs»  evi 
e<5  "-I      »-i  i-H  oj 


COCO  1-1      — 1?5 


t-i  t-  w 

CO  ^  oo 


cco» 
05  (^■^ 


£J^S     sc><to     tciOM     vS'eo 
*«oco      oces«(N      T^.-:i^:      ri" 

nneo 


Si 


u 

P. 

•S 


S  c  * 
(/■.  S  P- 

;r  «  o 

O      73 


8gg2§ 


a 


, 

u 

>^^ 

a 

ardig 
kets, 

g 
O 

2 

OQ 

t) 

03 

— » 

oo»< 


00  »o 


ss^ 


(N 


oecoo      c:  oso 


«c  -H  00      o 

•OQOt*        00 


I  oi      ■— I  «c  < 


•^  So     <£c4 1-H 


c 
o 

tS    r/-     "3 
C.^     P 

!c  ^  a 

ri  w  o 

o     ^ 

o 


coo«o 
o  c^  ic 

11  Tf  00 

■  ^  00 
^  ^  OS 


P2; 


in  fe  w 

"CO 
03 


t>-  1-H  l>- 

ect^oo 

»o"oru5~ 


'ig 
teg 

■3 


05  CO  05 
us'cc'cs" 

00»-i  » 

M"Vor 

O  -f  f< 


3 
> 


XO:«5 
ooic  ec 

05»c  eo 

OCTf  lO 

OC(N  00 


3 

•3 
> 

B 

o 


co«'( 

PfO( 


e<5  -«< 


03 

a>f 


rsSSJ     9?°?:::?     'oiceo     t^r»«to     oo 
S^S    gSS    &!SS    §55    ^° 


oc  t^  t^      —  o  ■ 


-^.S?    S*""*    "^ 


•V  t^»-( 


OSt^l 


«£<NC<5 

8§?S 


comtp 
<N  ooeo 

COON 

CO  00  35 


«>  ^  r^      O 

Pj  l-l'*       O 


eo" 


oooit^ 
couios 


ig 


C0Q«O 

e^  iOi-i 

«>e<5i-i 
csTcfcf 


ti!5!i;  '«^•«<1-l  »o-««q  c^t- 
SS2S  ;?'^£S  coioR  ^< 
or^os      !3f  i-< o      t^os'*      io< 


•O         »-H 


)0 


ggi  siS  §2°^  §li 


Oi^CI        1-1 


^oS? 
1— I  f-<f>- 

fl^      aK      *, 

OSl^UJ 

1-1  c«o 


s 


QSOUS 

•♦00  If 


TO  F-  ■^t 

COOOO 


ocoe^ 
00  <-t  1* 


■V(NO 


oeoe>» 

OJ  1<  <N 

orc^''tNr 

oTi-Tto^ 


W  000 
r>.  05  1-1 


■05i 

r^coo 
i-'«fl"co' 


00s  OS 

00-Hco 

OON  OS 

g^oo*"»o" 
CN  OS 
CO  1-1 


•S  OS  o>  CI  o  B5 

p  OS  10"  m-^co 

ot>»o  CI  ?5  ui 

CO  i^  ^^  ^1  c^ 


«0(M  CO 

o't^ofT 


iii  i^i  %^^  ^^^  S^g 

Oa)>C  «O-*00  "N^TP  T»«(MOO  oSf-iO 

SI2Sf5  SS£S2^  riS^S^  oc'c'co  moo  in 

^is  sis  S&^  5:ii  §8S 

?fg's~  d's'^tg  ?}s'^«  ^■^-''^  w^os-^^r 


CO  Oi  o 


)OS 


!?i: 


205 1^ 

00  01  CO 

COM1-1 


CO  OS  00 

O^ 

ao^Oi' 

too  !>• 


•-<  l>»»-l 

'^  V  U3 
jC"  Oo'-h" 

C^  1-I»H 


•^  OC  OS        Q  < 
O  100        O  ! 


>  TJI 


CS-H 


10      oec  »>. 
>  1-1      t^  •«<  00 

eo^oTio" 


C/.  OS  p 
cr>on5 
■*  O  t-i 

icpso 


t--  Osco 

c  co-f 


t>.o«c      1-100 


Sl^    lis    gSS    22-    2|?2    g?s-    K33 


be 

iii  kI 


00 ' 


els 
ta  Jz;        a 


100 


08 

C 
» 

o 

■(J  • 


OS 

a 
« 


1 1-153  1 
3 
o 

CO 


•3 
g 

3 
o 

CO 

>00  "S  J 
I  fH  4J  » 


o 

a 

lOo  e< 

o 


MO 

c^^i-T 
•*«o 


00 


OS© 
ar  o 


82 


o 


S2 

T»>  o 

OS*'*'" 

00—1 
000 


S2g 


cootT 

CO  rl 

o»o 


s^ 


s 


00 


INTRODUCTION. 


19 


ocoeo     oosic     t-iusos 

OOPOS        ^■^  y-i        C0«-<O 

1-ieoci      lO'*'*      csic^ie^ 


lOOM      O'^O      o 

•     •      •        ^  ■      •      •  • 

I  C*^  _! 


P<OC4 

cieo'** 


«00(N 

odo'j' 
US'*  CO 


C^'^'O 


00O-*       OS  O  1^ 

CO  35  o 


i-li-ltC         I--C110         r-4t^tC 
NPi'-i       5?feg       O50dt>i 


ooeo 


e  Q 


1-IOSOO        1-100       COO1-I 

SS'^    SSF::    2«^" 


CO       U500U3       Neo 

^     <>o'o» 


OSOOCO       U5  OS  ■*       coc^t* 

2d!2    ^S?r:r    ■♦'"*« 


■*  00  n 


COOSkQ         CO'- 

cor^o     111 


t»00Cb 


»OON 


0»tOC4 


•«<  -H  t-  M  O  1-1  •*-H'«< 

eo  ■*'  »o     o  OS  ■*'     e>i  ci  ei 

1-1,^—1        ilf^tOC        nn^ 


loeoco 


00U5O 


t^OOO 
0"»0»H 


N»0«        0OQO»H        •»»<'VO        C0OSU3        C0'«»<0>       •♦t^tO 

SSii     SSS     2SJ2     ^   '   '     "^^^     e^'-!   " 


•   •  • 


10—10       CO1-ICO       eOrf©       COOS'"*)       ost^co 

:322    SS^    SSa     -^  '  '    «0«5 


co«o^ 
e4^    * 


•  •  • 


m 


«' 


o  OS 'S"      t^mo      coosM      eoosoo 
2liz!i     S'SSS      co'coco     -H    '    " 

linn       O  >C  O       linn 


t>.t-«><       *n^ 

06  06  «>      c>i  p* 


t^Nn 


"(J 

IS  ®< 

>X™< 

t»H'C  1 


C8 

a 

a> 
O 

xs 


C8 

■♦a 

a 

O 


i:ISSg;Hs 


lOC'^CTi 

H4J. 


>00 


§ 


I  n^ii 

-3 

O 

GQ 


O 

3 
o 


s 

Ah 

■d 
§ 

I  n  a » 
o 

1^ 


e<9«c 


e  e 


On 


t^r- 


t*t^ 


e«eo 


Ml 


;00 


o  fc-  eS  s  2  ^ 

2  aco 
Ah 


20 


GQ 

m 

m 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


II 


)  a>  <c  05  CO  t-  ff-1  lO  ic  CO  o  -H  -r  '-<  c^  w  CO  •'T  ic  t-  M  -v  ir<  CD  I  -  ?o  ^ 


i-ir^QOOC^JCO-HiOlXXNCO 

<3J>CQ'<feo'*oo»Mt--r^co 
»0'^roD"<j<<Na>coeo      1-1 1>. 

l-H  50  TJ< 


3  Tr.^r^co>nco»o^iCco>-<:*eCig;© 


•4  1  -  00  1-1  <-l  'J'  CO  ( 


1  lO  Tf  t^  »r  »  c>» 


eo 


rH  C«  t^  t-H 


o 


SD 

n 

«< 

g 

» 

so 

o 

1—1 

O 

OS 

o 

00 

O 

P- 

M 

K 

;?; 

W 

o 

> 

i 

< 

s 

+j 

{H 

;=!( 

« 

3 

M 

S 

M 

rt 

CO 

0 

S 

te 

B 

CO 

is< 

13 

0 

U 

OQ 

.c 

CO 

i 

Ih 

fe 

.£3 

XI 

H 

w 

fc—J 

Pm 

o 

m 

o 

n 

•< 

y 

m 

Q 

d 

^ 

H 

H 

Q 

I 

o 


gh-««c^ococ<io»ocoo»r^^wcCNeo— < 
O>C<«'«f^00e«5O4i-'t^Q0t^C30e0C^C<lC^cDcO< 


1 1— I  CO  kC  A  0>  A 
.      ---....        -      _  -)  M  t~  (M  »  —  OC 

t^»OcOt^T)<00»'^-H05o-cOCC'Nt^i-Hr}<cOiM'-»dit-irtcO®'^iM 


•$       Tt<        (N  (N 1-1 


,, i-i-it--oscooO(Mr^coc^C?fC^e5 

U205c0roo0i-iob«5p3e«?      co^OsJ^lcocO 


i-i  ^  CO  c^  -^ 


M 


1—1  iC 


eo 


N 


00     '' 

U3 

U5     • 

g 

1— t     • 

00 

8  : 

eo 

OJ  •^  i-t  CO 
1-it^QO 

Ol  »C  i33  "" 


ec 


ooo 


«So 


■-^OOOCt^cDMCOCO^ 

XI  kCiCi-c  lO  t^  03  ■^  M 

■—(COOi— ii— 100<0005 

xTic'csroo'oi'r-^t^rorcD" 


•  o» 


'S 


1—1 1—1    • »-(      CO 


co< 


•^Jl  ■^ 


U:S3 

o 


S3MEg 

•S'T  fl  4J  S 


^•2    .S 


ooeooooot^eor^eoi 

>-iQt^cOC>|iC'^0C»O<— ^-.^ 

oo*cot^-^05t^t>-eococ<ioc~ 


5e<»o>>coscoo»ocococoao«-^ 

>  c^  oe  (M  —  1-1  CO »-  o  I-  «  ic  «  CO 
!C>icocoeooocoiooococc-Ha>t^ 


«o 


■^ 
■^ 


1—1 1-1  OS  N        —4        uONi-it^i-i  N 


K  ** 

e  u 

^S 


en 

"3 

i-i 

e 

eS 


Ih 
« 
^ 


111 


« 


CO 


I 

o 


I 


3 


I 


(Meow 

to  •«•  eo 

€©    •*   •■ 

»ceo 


>oo 
•eo 


i-iooeoc^ir^coo^'-^co'^ 


'^2SS2 


ico'g'ooo5'^"<j'i-<t~-®Q*cooO'»'eccocDi-iNOi®< 

>T-iO'ft^t^O«rcOOscOOiiTr~CMOCoC'«S»CcC'»rOi 

ioc^OTOseoosNC^'^ooi^cC''"  -ocot^'9'ooc^co'Ccoi 


»i-i  S  COO> 
5iC  C 


_  CO.^ 

co'r^cTt^O  in'Tj^oTc  -Hcp^Tf  a:  jTco  o6  cs  co  co  'J"  O  i~»  O^  •—  --  t^  c<> 

oOioct^^t^oi't'eoooOTOsco  550C5j-i--05  —  <Mt^oct-  'rfUM 
e0'-<05e<iooi-io0'-i      cOi^03w'Ot^ooiXt^'^coC(NC^oo»c 

cq"     ^"eo  to^'i-rc^—rorroTcocD'c^     cf     i— '^-Tec' 

eo  (N 


I  Ol  CO( 

>  ^-<  ^t*  I 

lOOCOi 


e^i^i— lOsrrioocoeoci-O'^oCiMeoQ'Oi-ccor^t^i^Qt 
ic>oo>?<i05i^"5'Vi-<i-i»>ooo-icoooic<i'-'005M®g; 
i-it>.eo'«J"cooiMoooii."j*c>j»ooc«5t^i^coa>eo»';  f-OiX 


Oi-it--'^i— iCOOCONiO^i-it-OOSOOM 

1-1      CO      cotoc^  ^H  r^  iCi->  eo  CO  ^  0> 

«»  •-)  (O 


1-1  05  CO  C^  CO  t^  '-I'OS  o 


•  CO  »0 


CO  — 00  e^i-i  CD  "C  Oi— I  OS  00  CO  O  r^i-i  "?  O  O  CO  OiOS  CO  N  c    _   . 

S;C).^_C,3t-iOO(Mi-<C^«ft'-<?»-^iOi— i000Ci-i(M»OOll^  Cj-iCO 
C-4i-i(M05'<rt^iCCOOC0005COTqeOCO-^t^COi-<COl^t^t^   C^»OC'«r 

'^'~ci"co'(N"o(rcD  co'  c<r'fl^ec"T)>"oc'  c<c  ro'co'txTcT— <'"Q'~'-'r'-i"eo"c<r c~«''QC*"eo 

C^i-<CDC^-ii-iOOi^i-cCO>CCC-rfC!fOXt^iCeOiOC<l»Ci-<Ct^»C 

^i.^eoi-ii^»-<cD  cqoct>-co— <ooooot^cOi-n>>      'wSjioeo 


1^       ■v  I-<  1-1 1-( 


OeOiO— <OOi-i®cOOt^t-P-l'X'-Hi-H05'^Qi3J000005QQ"5e<l 
430(Ne^t^ij<OMOcot^co— -«i'v«it^»coocoi-ieot^orQcOeo 
ot^ooootcoc^-^Oiccoccc^t-t^roooosoc-  —  ^ 


SCO'-'  eo 
:eoo»c 


TT  t~-  ' 


s? 


COiM»C  —  eoiosjcOTrc^^i-iQpo— ;t^Q»0»-icO'-<  —  (NJJ>OC0 

•»eoco     r-i-io         i-(005«o5it^05'^cococo      •«»<i-ii-'M05i— ■ 

i-<  i^  »H  Ni^'— '  00        i-H  CO  C^ 


COC^COCS105C<«0 
OC  CI  1-1  o       -    

1-c  t-  -"T  00 


Csi05C<«OQOcpt^'-<i-"0'^05C<l-^Ot^-H»-|COCiJ( 
i-ir-.cCC^O'COiX^IJCCpTrrr'^cO'^OOt^.QWMf 
iCt-oO  —  iCiOeOCC'M-'OCOCQOCOOOll—  i-i»C»rtN< 


joo 


MOoOOrJi2eoooe<«eO< 
C^JCO'Ci-iOOO  1-1-1        i-i< 


>  CO  CO  CO  OC  0>  CO  Oi 

>  eo  "i^  i^  CO  •«»'  eo  5^  . 

)  I— I  F-1  1— 1  I— I  c^j  ( 


•*®OXi-o>ecoot-Cfli-<Q®eoos'*  —  '-<eoeO'^r-c<ies>-«Qu5 

0Cft(NeO(MiC— ■vCcOOl>Ga53'»C"0i-c^C<gO»CSOS0e£|S'O 

i-i(MOC'vcoooo;QOeooot->cr-o«-ic><»ooii-'0»w*eo-^aooi~- 
oo"co~»c"r-''io  cc'^-^inint-^d'^  t-^cc-^<S<Sc^^fO>nae^ci'cc<o 


ooco»ct^»cioc 
QeoM(M£-eo< 

lO  ■^  td  •^  C3S  05  ( 
uo       C^  ■^i-i 


.  Tf  ic  ic  i^  CO  '-' 

i  O  CO  -SI  QC  OC-  35 
:  CO       O  (NTT  P- 

.-re<reo^— <  Tr"co^ar-»r"ic"eo"co 


uj'  -H  05C0 
IC  (M  CO  CC  M  CO  O 

i-""  cfccTi-T 


t- 


SI 


SI 


(NOCl  —  (M(MCCcOeOQXe<;J.  -^rf>Ot^<NOroC«QTrQr-OC"5 
0Ci-C0'^i-Oai0Cr-OiQ0CQ^<?^O2-^'— icO00t-Ci(^5^*XCSi-" 
c>i<-tcOCT>cooJt-(N'C>ocooti-x54Cji-«'00'veor-c^i-o-H-»j. 

W~V^  jc'  OS  or(N~'^'"t--"oroc"»c"Tr'i-rcj  ss'eo"'^'" 

t^eoi-NotJOOcoooot^iOio^Hu^cfioo© 

■»»'h-0>»0'9'»Ci— '"rOlOOl—  OC0t-"Oi-iO 

c^eo"-—  oo"eo"e^f irT'^  or'ci"     -*      — "—  "^  -^ 
T-i  «o         eo 


i^ioeoocoi»cicpoo{ 

c^— <CO0C«O-hC?5c^i 
CO»0-rrC<IC<l  —  •^■^i-ii 

«•        •.        ~   ^   ^ 

.CO      eoioc^i 


»-i  — <  CO  1— ' 


3 

cj.2.2 

=3  o  2 
^  eo  o 


•S  CO 


»        •  »fc^ 

I  .       .    CO       . 

)  •      t  ^  ^ 

I  '  eS  C  v^  ^ 


>  to 

a  o 
PhPJ 


03 

B 


.S 


-S  $ 


S? 


t- 

c 

31' 


M 


J? 


I- 


e 

03 
CO 

■^  K^  ^— < 


evi 
I- 


I- 

© 

I 


1- 
J- 

CI 


s 


^ 


♦0 


«o 


1^ 


S 

CQ 


§ 
O 


03 


IN 


S 


§ 


S 


I 

.3 

3 
o 

h5 
(N 

>C 

M 

u 

•M 

s 


o 

•3 


-sie-j 


pq 

e5 


OQ 

Q 

O 

O 

O 

g 

55 

W 

^^ 

Oi 

Q 

00 

«< 

P« 

h 

M 

tf 

> 

0} 

r. 

O 

^ 

n 

3 

+» 

H 

^ 

3 

s 

;:^ 

CO 

0 

^ 

««j 

o 

o 

55 

.£3 

pq 

i 

(D 

(h 

;z; 

A 

o 

00 

« 

H 

f^ 

PE, 

O 

(0 

u 

CD 

P 

"< 

H 

OQ 

Q 

H 

H 

^ 

H 

» 

Q 

CO 

i-i 

c 


I 

•3 

a 

03 
CO 


•i 
§ 


•I 

1^ 


9 


-a 


CO 

3 
•3 

a 


n 
« 

CO 

3 


e 

03 
« 


C8 

•3 

xi 

■«-> 

»^ 

Xi 

s 

3 


I  • 
2 -a 


J 


^1 

3^ 


la 


CO 


9 

■a 
a 

9 


9 

•a 


><    t;    O    C    Im     ©    © 

Ph  O,-^  oJcB  Q^ 


3  fe^.'i  g 


INTRODUCTION. 


21 


o 


'^®2?P^S?0*o*Qf5^Heou5t-'M'^cor-'*t^oooc>»o»c>»u3 
»oc»o»'*eocj  ■*  1-1  c»  00  CO  ■«»•  36  o  CO  t- CO  M5  t^  35  o  CO  <K 
m     c«  CO  ^  oTec     cfr^io-^^^wS     cf         ^of 


2      o6iot-«o^co      — QiC(Neo»>Teoooic^ooco 
1-1  C4^N  »-iec  uiCftSco^      CO 


CO 


3 


CO  1-1  CO  I  OS 

^1  •«'  i-<  I  00 


s 


«  ^-4  <3J  iC  00  ^H 


»C<NN   C»  CO  CO  CO  CO  N   St 

»— t  l-H  U)     f-4       < 


I  eo <-<«»« 


itor^ 


0> 

eo 


NWQOCDCpt-OOftt-cDO*'^©' 
•-•'j'OcOaaoO'^uocMcO'^'^r-.i 

CO  eq  CO  eo  "5  05 1-1  i-H   co»oor-( 


§■«?<  ^  00  »o  •*  "5  00  us -^  »^  CO  © 
c^wt-^-t—  t^r>.t-«co«oeoeo   a6 
•«r  CO  »o  ©  eo  CO  00 -<  cO  ©  0»  00  ■  <-« 


S8 


N  (-1  ,-1  f-4 


»oc«      cs -M ^ e< e>«  00 ^      ^ 


sg 


S2JPS'^<*^"'oe<}e<'9<©oO'»fop»©r^cD'«»<co-H©— ©t^t^      © 

»H     o     Qe©io  — r5»o  —  ooc5Nu3t^eoS  00     coiot>-e<5     •«• 


3 


a 
o 


03 

ha 

9 


t-  00  lO  CO  cot 

o  eo  c>»  'j5  CO  ( 
ooo  —  oococ 


e»     e«N^ 


^»w 


CO  w  CO  TT  e«  CO  ^ 

CO  CO 


CO 


®2^i£  «  «  «nao  05  <««  5  08  OS  08  03  ®^  ®5  as  3  oj  OS 


fcSSSJ^S?  SS?"^^© '-"«'*  O'^Nt^ --"C  e<5  — coofeo 

SSSS?^S2S'^sJ__5oqS_^ffc5SSSSi2iiis 

'-'^  ©"ei"  ^  e<a"ei~t>^»o'~  ecoT  ^ 
<^  eo         ec 


eo     weoN 


eo      1^  i^- 


®  3  -^9  O  O  j^3  ^00o0009309^  CXiO  O  9  9 


9 


^ 


03 

a 

08 


2 

I     3 

o 


o 


i-<go©^eocorOi->icc>»-Huoe«©^©,-(05cO'^©t-'«»>co»oe»i« 
CO  cs«  CO  •'T  t^  ©  ©  e>«      ©  ©  «o  ©  ,1  35  ©  — -1 « t^  a6 1-1  i_i  ©  p.  csi  i-> 


CO        C4e>4f-I 


»^  »  d  ^  eo  c«  ttiioeoao^ 
eo  CO 


eo  r4  ««•  K4 


c»»0Qeot-'C0'^co 
c*      i-ieoc4 


©QO«it^i-i'»>t-.«coo©oc*c<j©'^j<e^oo© 


•^  ^H 1-^  CO       ^H  uo  ^i^ 


t2l33?*.'vSJ22*2^"='®2PS9<»2<'>'^'*-^<»«Okc©-wooco 
i-irHift     W5VO-H-H      ^::it*e5co«t^  — oo«o(N-HS»HiH«©eo 

^  ^1    T^  CO 


OIN.-ICOO 


»-•  CO  i-t      cicooeoeoo  <m 


c« 


eo 


eo 


ceco»o^«5*-HO<N     oc5«S^>cococo-ve*«ooc^c5©"SN 

eo     M  eo  c«  '-<"o'eir»-rco  ea't^-^icTeo  o  i-T     eo  ,J-^_r 

•^  eo  ^< 


<OCOrH'«'«CO»0'*»0»^»0»OO.Ht>.©C«©.«.t>.t>.ea^[»i.^rtt^ 

«      g^-*  ^ceeo-HCsicocSSroSi^     SZh^SSI^ 

eo  ^•^ 


e^l 


ui 


00 

a 

03 

i4 


o 

08 


i 

Xi 

CO 

3 

03 


HI 

i 


5§ 


eo 


as « 

So® 


o3  ,„'  «8 

••-■•SS  3 
W)o  c3 


s 

Xi 

on 

0'>. 


03 


.  SJ=  S  O  85  fe  Oo 
eS  C  >>(n^  «  "^ 


•■^fldOy9,Si«t'''»08-Siam®®Ox5S 


03 
03  O 

"w  a 

If 


CO 

3  08  I- 
9-^9 


eS  2 

"3  3 
C  C 


••^  »-^  ^m 


C3  s8 

h  C 

9  .S 

Xi  <^ 


22 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


INTRODUCTION". 


23 


The  average  number  of  wage  earntTs  in  the  industry  during  1909 
was  129,275.  In  Table  11  the  number  is  distributed  according  to 
age,  and  in  the  case  of  those  16  years  of  age  and  over  according  to 
sex,  for  1909,  1904,  and  1899.  As  will  be  seen  the  wage  earners 
are  largely  female.  The  percentages  of  females  16  years  of  age 
and  over  was  approximately  the  same  for  1899  and  1909,  though 
that  for  1904  was  a  little  higher.  Although  the  actual  number  of 
children  has  shown  an  increase  at  each  succeeding  census,  the  per- 
centage which  they  have  formed  of  the  total  number  of  wage  earners 
has  decreased. 


Table  11. — Average  Number  op  Wage  Earners  in  the  Hosiery 

Industries,  1899,  1904,  and  1909. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactiires,  Vol.  X,  p.  70.] 

AND  Knit  Goods 

1909 

1904 

1899 

Classes. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
distri- 
bution. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
distri- 
bution. 

Number. 

Per  cent 

distri- 

buti<Hi. 

16  years  of  age  and  over 

118,769 
35,383 
83,386 
10,506 

91.9 

27.4 

64.5 

8.1 

94,405 

25,212 

69, 193 

9,687 

90.7 
24  2 

66.5 
9  3 

75,022 

21,197 

53,825 

8,669 

89.6 

Male 

25.3 

Female 

64.3 

Under  16  years  of  age 

10  4 

Total 

129,275 

100.0 

104,092 

100.0 

83,691 

100  0 

The  production  of  hosiery  has  increased  much  more  rapidly 
than  has  the  population.  The  population  of  the  United  States,  exclu- 
sive of  outlying  possessions,  was  75,994,575  in  1900  and  91,972,266 
in  1910,  an  increase  of  15,977,691,  or  21  per  cent. 

While  the  population  increased  21  per  cent  in  the  10  years  from 
1900  to  1910,  the  production  of  hosiery  increased  110.1  per  cent  in 
quantity  and  150.6  per  cent  in  value  during  the  10  years  from  1899 
to  1909. 

The  figures  for  the  production  in  1899,  which  was  358,846,788 
pairs,  if  divided  by  the  figures  for  the  population  1900,  which  was 
75,994,575,  will  show  that  the  production  was  equal  to  4.72  pairs 
per  capita. 

The  figures  for  the  production  in  1909,  which  was  753,900,828 
pairs,  if  divided  by  the  figures  for  the  population  1910,  which  was 
91,972,266,  will  show  that  the  production  was  equal  to  8.2  pairs 
per  capita. 

No  official  figures  regarding  the  development  of  the  hosiery  and 
knit-goods  industries  since  1909  will  be  available  until  the  rep()rt  of 
the  Census  of  Manufactures  in  1914  is  issued.  The  data  in  Table  12, 
however,  are  compiled  from  a  directory  of  the  industry. 


Table  12.— Number  of  Mills  Making  Full  Regular  and  Seamless  Hosiery  in- 
1909  AND  1914,  AS  Reported  in  Davidson's  Hosiery  and  Knit-Goods  Trade 
Directory  for  1909-10  and  1914-15. 


1909 

1914 

States. 

Full 
regular. 

Seam- 
less. 

Repeti- 
tions. 

Net 
total. 

Full 
regular. 

Seam- 
less. 

Repeti- 
tions. 

Net 
totaL 

Alabama 

6 
3 

6 
3 
1 
8 
4 

22 

22 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1 

4 

5 

21 

12 

5 

1 

2 

1 

17 
10 
20 
62 
17 

4 
1 

4 

1 

California 



Colorado 

1 
1 

Connecticut 

7 

4 

21 

22 

3 

2 

1 

1 

1 

4 

5 

20 

11 

4 

1 

2 

1 

17 
7 

13 
60 
17 

1 

5 
3 
19 
22 
5 
3 

6 

3 
19 

Delaware 

Georgia 

1 
4 
2 

Illinois 

4 
2 

2 
2 

2 
2 

Indiana 

22 

Iowa 

5 
3 

Kansas 

Kentucky 

1 
2 
2 
8 
24 
14 
4 
1 
1 

i 

2 

3 

8 

26 

Louisiana 

Maine 

2 

1 

Maryland 

Massachusetts 

Michigan... 

3 
3 
2 

2 
2 
1 

4 
2 
2 

2 
2 
1 

Minnesota 

14 

Mississippi 

5 

1 
1 

Missouri 

Nebraska 

i 

3 
4 
7 
3 
1 

1 
3 
1 

New  Hampshire 

New  Jersey 

3 
6 
9 
4 
3 

15 
17 
27 
74 
12 
1 

3 

15 
23 

New  York 

3 

1 
1 

North  Carolina 

Ohio 

i' 

1 

33 

77 

Oklahoma 

14 
1 

Oregon 

2 

297 

5 

14 

20 

1 
4 
3 
6 

2 

314 

6 

14 

22 

1 

8 

3 

6 

Pennsylvania 

Rhode  Island 

35 

1 
1 
4 

18 

37 
3 
2 
1 

301 
8 
7 

25 
1 
3 
1 
9 

15 

323 

11 
8 
26 
1 
8 
2 
9 
1 
2 

South  Carolina 

Tennessee 

1 
2 

1 

Texas 

Utah 

6 

2 

5 
1 

Vermont 

Virginia 

Washington 

1 

West  Virginia 

3 
23 

i 

2 
25 

Wisconsin 

5 

1 

3 

2* 

26 

Total 

88 

611 

42 

657 

93 

647 

36 

704 

According  to  the  trade  directory,  there  were  in  the  United  States 
88  mills  making  full-fashioned  hoisery  in  1909  and  93  in  1914,  and 
611  making  seamless  hosiery  in  1909  and  647  in  1914.  The  net 
total  in  1909  was  657 ;  in  1914  it  was  704.  The  same  directory  shows 
an  increase  in  the  mills  making  knit  underwear  from  410  in  1909  to 
448  in  1914. 

The  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufac- 
turers is  an  organization  with  headquarters  in  Philadelphia.  In 
1914  it  had  292  active  members,  located  as  foUows:  Pennsylvania, 
162;  North  Carolina,  24;  New  York,  20;  Tennessee,  16;  Georgia, 
10;  New  Jersey,  9;  Wisconsin,  7;  Illinois,  6;  Ohio  and  New  Hamp- 
shire, 5  each;  Maryland,  Massachusetts,  and  Virginia,  4  each;  Con- 
necticut and  Michigan,  3  each;  Delaware,  Indiana,  Iowa,  Louisiana, 
Maine,  Minnesota,  Missouri,  Khode  Island,  South  Carohna,  and  Ver- 
mont, 1  each.  Most  of  the  members  of  this  association  manufacture 
hosiery  exclusively. 

The  Knit  Underwear  Association,  with  headquarters  in  Utica, 
had,  in  1914,  about  35  active  members,  of  whom  three-fourths  were 
m  New  York  State. 


24 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


SCOPE  AND  METHOD  OF  INVESTIGATION. 

This  investigation  of  the  cost  of  manufacturing  hosiery  was  under- 
taken in  compliance  with  the  act  of  Congress  approvecl  August  23, 
1912,  which  created  the  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce, 
and  which  contained  the  following  section  providing  for  investigations 
of  the  cost  of  production  of  articles  dutiable  in  the  United  States: 

Those  certain  duties  of  the  Department  of  Labor,  or  Bureau  of  Labor,  contained  in 
section  seven  of  the  act  approved  June  thirteenth,  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty-eight, 
that  established  the  same,  which  especially  ( liarged  it  "  to  ascertain,  at  as  early  a  date 
as  possible,  and  whenever  industrial  changes  shall  make  it  essential,  the  cost  of  pro- 
ducing  articles  at  the  time  dutiable  in  the  Lnited  States,  in  heading  countri«'s  where 
such  articles  are  produced,  by  fully  specified  units  of  production,  and  under  a  classi- 
fication showing  the  different  elements  of  cowt ,  or  approximate  cost,  of  such  articles  of 
production,  including  the  wages  paid  in  such  industries  per  day,  week,  month,  or 
year,  or  by  the  piece;  the  hours  employed  per  day;  and  the  profits  of  manufacturers 
and  producers  of  such  articles;  and  the  comparative  cost  of  living,  and  the  kind  of 
living;  what  articles  are  controlled  by  trusts  or  other  combinations  of  capital,  business 
operations,  or  labor,  and  what  effect  said  trusts,  or  other  combinations  of  capital,  busi- 
ness operations,  or  labor  have  on  production  and  prices, ' '  are  hereby  transferred  to  and 
shall  hereafter  be  discharged  by  the  Bureau  (»f  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce,  and 
it  shall  also  be  the  duty  of  said  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce  to  make 
such  special  investigation  and  report  on  particular  subjects  when  required  to  do  so 
by  the  President  or  either  House  of  Congress. 

The  investigation  was  begun  in  March,  1914,  and  the  field  work  was 
completed  within  five  months.  Special  agents  of  the  Bureau  of  For- 
eign and  Domestic  Conmierce  secured  reports  from  73  establishments. 
Of  these  establishments,  32  are  located  in  Pennsjlvaniti,  where  the 
industry  is  largely  centered.  The  remaining  41  are  located  in  the 
States  of  New  Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  New  York, 
Maryland,  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  Tennessee,  Ohio| 
Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Wisconsia,  and  Missouri. 

Reports  were  solicited  only  from  representative  establishments,  but 
these  establishments  varied  greatly  in  the  amount  of  their  business. 
The  net  sales  of  the  73  establishments  varied  from  less  than  $16,000 
to  nearly  $2,500,000  during  their  last  business  periods.  The  total 
net  sales  of  the  73  establishments  amounted  to  $27,010,893,  an  aver- 
age of  $370,012.  According  to  the  ('(;nsus  of  Manufactures,  the  value 
of  the  hosiery  produced  in  the  United  States  in  1909  was  $68,721 ,825." 
Of  this  amount  the  net  sales  of  the  73  establishments  that  reported  for 
this  investigation  is  39.3  per  cent. 

The  object  of  the  investigation  was  to  ascertain  the  details  of  the 
cost  of  manufacturing  hosiery,  the  income  from  sales  and  miscel- 
laneous sources,  and  the  profit  made  by  each  establishment  during  its 
last  business  year.  The  following  form,  called  an  establishment 
schedule,  was  printed  for  the  entry  of  such  data: 

a  Table  5,  on  p.  14  of  this  report,  reproduced  from  I  liirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  79. 


INTRODUCTTJN. 


Confidential. 


25 


Establishment  No. 


Neither  the  name  nor  the  location  of  the  establishment  is  to  appear  on  this  schedule  or  in  connection  with 

any  figures  that  are  furriish<Hl. 


UNITED   STATES    DEPARTMENT  OF   COMMERCE, 
BUREAU   OF  FOREIGN   AND   DOMESTIC   COMMERCE, 

WASHINGTON.      . 


Clothing  Industry— Establishment  Schedule. 


1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 


Branch  of  clothing  industry 

Kinds  of  garments  made  in  this  factory ,,\, 

Individual,  partnership,  limited  partnership,  or  corporation! ! " '. '. 
Report  for  business  year,  beginning ,  191. . ,  and  ending 


,191. 


(a)  material  cost. 


1. 

2. 
3. 

4. 
5, 
6. 

7. 

8. 
9. 


Yarn. 


Materials  used  in  wearing  apparel 


Purchases  dur- 
ing year  at 
Percent  gross    billed 

imported.  cost. 

$ 


Buttons,  thread,  sundries. 


Gross  materials  purchased. 
Deduct  returns  and  allowances. . 


10.  Actual  materials  purchased. . 

11.  Deduct  discount  taken  during  year. 


12.  Net  materials  purchased 

13.  Freight  and  cartage  inward,  with  proportionate  stable  or  garaie 

expense 


14.  Cost  of  materials  purchased,  delivered 

15.  Add  inventory  of  materials  at  beginning  of  year 


16.  Total 

17.  Deduct  inventory  of  materials  at  end  of  year. . " .  $ . 

18.  Deduct  sales  of  materials  at  net  cost  (enter  profit 

on8ameatG-22;  loss  at  G-11) 

19.  Deduct  receipts  from  waste 


20. 


21. 


Total  deductions. 


Net  cost  of  materials  used. 


(b)  direct  labor. 

1.  Wages  of  all  employees  in  manufacturing  occupations. 

2.  Paid  to  contractors 


3.  Paid  to  home  workers  (by  establishment,  not  by  contract  shops)' 

4.  Total  direct  labor 


26 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 
(C)  INDIRECT  LABOR. 


1.  Salaries  of  officials,  partners,  or  individual  owner,  charffoable  to 

manufacturing 

2.  Wages  of  factory  superintendent,  foremen,  "and  forewomen 

3.  Wages  of  designers 

4.  Wages  of  employees  in  sample  department.. 

5.  Wages  of  other  general  help— machinist,  clerks  in  factoryVnot  gen- 

eral office),  packing  and  shipping  (not  show  room)  hands,  floor 
boys  and  girls,  etc.  (not  including  engineer  and  fireman  shown  at 
jJ-4) 


Purchases  dur- 
ing year  at 
gross  billed 
cost. 


6. 


Total  indirect  labor. 


(d)  factory  expense. 


1.  Rent  of  space  used  for  manufacturing  and  shipping  departments 

(not  including  Items  at  D-4) 

2.  Depreciation:  Of  buildings  owned,  $ ;  of  machinery  and  fix- 

tures, $ ;  total "^ 

3.  Repairs:  To   buildings  (not  including  additions),   $..*         'to" 

machinery  and  fixtures  (not  including  replacements),  $.   ; 

4.  Power,  heat  (or  fuel  and  wages  of  engineer  and  fireman),  light,  and 

water.  ....................... 

5.  Cardboard  boxes,  cases,  nails,  and  other  packing  materials. 

6.  Other  factory  expense  (specify  important  items,  entering  "Miscel- 

laneous expense  "  for  balance) ... 

7 

8 


9. 


Total  factory  expense. 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 

12. 

13. 

14. 
15. 

.16. 


(e)  cost  of  administration. 

Salaries  of  officials,  partners,  or  individual  owner,  not  chargeable  to 
indirect  labor  or  cost  to  sell 

Salaries  of  general  office  force  and  auditor  ...'.*.*.".'.*.'.. 

Rent  of  general  office 

Office  supplies,  stationery,  postage,  telegrams,  teiephones. 

t  ire  insurance  (this  year  only):  On  buildings,  $ ;  on  machin- 
ery, stock,  etc.,  $ ;  total 

Insurance — other  kinds  (this  year  only) 

Workmen's  compensation  or  employers'  liability 

Welfare  work,  $ ;  charities,  $ ;  total '....'.'." 

Expense  of  collection  and  legal  service 

Bad  debts  apportioned  to  this  year 

Corporation  (not  income)  tax:    United  States,*  '$ ." .' .'  .* .' .' ;"  *  State 
$ ;  total 

State,  county,  township,  and  municipal  taxes:  On  real  estate. . 

^- ;  on  macliinery,  stock,  etc.,  $ ;  total 

Other  administrative  expense  (specify  important  items,  ejitering 
Miscellaneous  expense  "  for  balance) 


Total  cost  of  administration. 


(f)  cost  to  sell. 


1.  Salaries  of  officials,  partners,  or  individual  owner,  chargeable  to 

sales  department 

2.  Salaries,  commissions,  traveling  and  general  expense  of  salesmen! 

3.  Wages  of  other  employees  in  sales  department  (not  including  i)ack- 

ing  and  shipping  help  shown  at  C-5) 

4.  Rent  of  showroom 


INTRODUCTION. 


27 


5.  Freight  and  express  charges  prepaid  and  cartage  outward,  with 

proportionate  stable  or  garage  expense $ 

6.  Advertising  (not  including  advertising  for  help)  and  circularizing. 


Purchases  dur- 
ing year  at 
gross  billed 
cost. 


8. 
9. 

10. 


Other  selling  expense  (specify  important  items,  entering  "Miscel- 
laneous expense  "  for  balance 


Total  cost  to  sell. 


1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 
6. 
7. 


Material  cost  (A-21) 

Direct  labor  (B-4) 

Indirect  labor  (C-6) 

Factory  expense  (D-9).. 
E-] 


(o)  profit  and  loss  statement. 
Outgo. 


Administrative  cost  (E-16) 

Selling  cost  (F-10) 

Garments  purchased 

8.  Inventory,  except  materials  (A-15),  beginning  of  year 

9.  Interest 

10.  Other  expense  items,  on  investments  outside  manufacturing 

business  of  this  establishment:  Specify 

12 


13. 

14.  Profit. 


Total  outgo . 


15. 


Total. 


Income. 


16.  Gross  sales,  less  returns  and  allowances. 

17.  Deduct  discounts  allowed 


Net  sales 

Inventory,  except  materials  (A-17),  end  of  year 

Income  from  bank  balances  and  interest  on  bills  receivable, 

Siid,  or  accrued 
er  income  items,  from  investments  outside  manufacturing 
business  of  this  establishment:  Specify 


18. 
19. 
20. 

21. 

22. 
23. 

24. 
25. 

26. 

27.  File  with  the  schedule  copies  of  profit  and  loss  statements  for  previous  years,  as  far 
back  as  possible.  If  unobtainable,  give  the  following  items  (provided  they 
can  be  obtained  from  the  books),  as  far  back  as  possible: 


Loss. 


Total  income. 


Total. 


Year  ending ,  19. . 

Year  ending ,  19. . 

Year  ending ,  19. . 

Year  ending ,  19. . 

Year  ending ,  19. . 

Year  ending ,  19. . 


Net  sales,  | 

Net  sales, 
Net  sales, 
Net  sales, 
Net  sales, 
Net  sales, 


. . ;  profit,  $ 
..;  profit, 
..;  profit, 
. .;  profit, 
. .;  profit, 
..;  profit. 


;  loss,  I. 

;  loss,  . 

;  loss,  . 

;  loss. 

;  loss, 

;  loss,  . 

(h)  balance  sheet. 


File  with  the  schedule  copies  of  the  balance  sheets,  showing  assets  and  liabilities, 
at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  last  business  year  and  during  tne  year,  if  any. 

Whenever  practicable,  file  with  the  schedule  copies  of  the  balance  sheets  for  previous 
years  as  far  back  as  possible. 


28 


THE   HOSIERS    INDUSTRY. 


(l)    GENERAL  INQUIRIES. 


INTRODUCTION. 


29 


1. 

2. 
3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 


8. 

9. 

10. 


Increase  of  capital  stock  during  year,  amount,  $ ;  date    191 

Was  capital  stock  increased  by  stock  di v idend  or  cash  sale? ..[..[..' 
Cost  of  Dew  machinery  purchased  duriug  year  (not  to  be  (iajged'againrtt  cost  of 
manufacturing),  $ o        o 

Cost  of  other  additions  and  betterments  during  year  (not  to  be  charged  against 

cost  of  manufacturing),  $ 

Usual  time  and  c-ash  discoimt  allowed  to  retailers, ;  to  jobbers, ;  to 

commission  houses  which  guarantee  accounts, ;  which  do  not  guarantee 

accounts, 

Per  cent  of  sales  during  year  to  domestic  retailers, ;  to  domestic  jobbers, 

.-....;   to  domestic   commission  houses  which   guarantee  accounts,  ; 

which  do  not  guarantee  accounts, 

Per  cent  of  sales  during  year  exported,   ;  amount  exported,  $ If 

possible,  specify  amount  exported  to  each  countr>^ 


(j)   NUMBER   OF    EMPLOYEES. 


1.  State  average  number  engaged  in  direct  labor  (B-1),  in(  hiding  helpers  not  on 

pay  roll,  and  in  indirect  labor  (C-2-3  1-5),  and  engineer  and  fireman  (D^),  in 
the  establishment  (not  contract  shops)  during  191. .,  by  months: 

January May September 

February June October 

March July November 

Ap^" August Dcicember 

2.  Classify,  as  follows,  such  employees  during  the  month  (busy  season)  of , 

J-if  J.  •   •  • 


16  years  of  age  and  over. 

Under  16  years  of  age. 

Male. 

Female. 

Male. 

Female. 

Time. 

Piece. 

Time. 

Piece. 

Time. 

Piece. 

Time. 

Piece. 

-  >••••..•••• 

3.  Oflacials  or  partuers  actively  engaged  in  the  business:  Indirect  labor  (C-1)   .       . . ; 

administration  (E-1),   ;  cost  to  seU  (F-1),   ;  total  (none  counted 

twice), 

4.  'y^Tiat  operations  in  making  or  trimming  garments  are  performed  by  contract? 

5.  Enter  under  "Remarks"  the  names  and  addresses  of  contra* ^tors,  stating  whether 

their  shops  are  inside  or  outside  the  establishment  and  whether  or  not  they  work 
for  this  establishment  exclusively. 

(k)   REMARKS. 

Foregoing  d?'ta  furnished , ,  191  *. '.  ^  to  Special  Agent 

Agents  of  the  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce  visited 
the  establishments  and  requested  j)ermission  to  examine  the  books 
of  accounts  m  order  to  obtain  the  desired  details.  Assurance  was 
given  that  the  information  would  be  regarded  as  conlidentittl  and 


would  not  be  used  in  such  a  way  that  the  establishments  could  be 
identified.    The  form  of  this  assurance  was  as  follows: 

Department  op  Commerce, 
Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce, 

Washington. 
Confidential. 

(One  copy  of  this  agreement  to  be  retained  by  the  manufacturer  and  one  copy  to  be  forwarded  to  the 
chiei  of  the  bureau.) 

The  information  which  has  been  given  to  Mr ,  8j)ecial  agent  of  the 

Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce,  is  furnished  with  the  understanding  that 
the  name  or  address  of  the  establishment  will  not  be  written  on  the  schedule;  that 
the  information  on  the  schedule  will  be  considered  by  the  Bureau  and  its  special 
agents  as  absolutely  confidential;  that  it  will  not  be  divulged;  and  that  it  will  not  be 
published  in  such  a  way  that  the  identity  of  the  establishment  will  be  shown. 

This  information,  which  appears  on  establishment  schedule  No. ,  has  been 

obtained  from  the  books  and  from  the  officers  of  the  establishment,  and,  to  the  best 
of  our  knowledge,  is  correct. 

(Special  agent's  signature) . 

(Manufacturer's  signature) . 

Date, ,  191—. 

The  investigation  was  opposed  at  the  annual  convention  of  the 
National  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers  held  in  Philadel- 
phia May  12-14,  1914.  The  following  preamble  and  resolution  were 
imanimously  passed  at  this  convention: 

Whereas  the  investigations  that  have  been  authorized  by  Congress  and  which  are 
being  made  under  the  direction  of  the  Department  of  "Commerce  at  Washington 
as  to  the  cost  of  manufacture  in  connection  with  the  present  business  conditions  as 
the  basis  for  determining  the  defects  of  the  Underwood-Simmons  tariff  bill  in  its 
relation  to  manufacturing  interests  would  not  at  this  time  be  a  true  reflection  of 
the  actual  results  of  the  new  tariff  bill:  Therefore  be  it 

Resolved,  That  we  recommend  to  the  Department  of  Commerce  that  these  investi- 
gations be  postponed  until  at  least  a  year  after  the  Underwood- Simmons  bill  became 
a  law,  for  the  reason  that  practically  all  manufacturers  are  still  operating  on  orders 
taken  prior  to  the  passage  of  the  new  bill;  hence  the  adverse  effects  can  not  be  felt 
until  old  orders  have  been  exhausted. c^ 

On  account  of  this  action  a  number  of  manufacturers  refused  to 
comply  with  the  request  to  furnish  data  regarding  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction of  their  establishments.  The  numb(^r  that  refused  was  24,  of 
whom  15  were  in  Philadelphia.  Notwithstanding  this  action  of  the 
convention,  reports  were  secured  from  36  members  of  the  National 
Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers  who  manufactured  hosiery 
and  from  14  members  who  manufactured  knit  underwear. 

The  information  secured  during  the  investigation  was  obtained 
directljr  from  the  manufacturers  and  from  their  books.  No  data 
regardmg  the  cost  of  production  were  accepted  that  the  agents  did 
not  find  recorded  on  the  books  of  the  establishments  reporting. 
From  data  entered  on  the  establishment  schedules  the  figures  were 
derived  which  show  the  various  items  of  the  cost  of  production  and 
also  the  percentages  of  profit  on  net  sales  and  on  the  capital  employed 
in  the  business. 

The  further  object  of  the  investigation  was  to  ascertain  the  details 
of  the  cost  of  manufacturing  specified  styles  of  hosiery.  The  fol- 
lowing form,  called  a  unit  schedule,  was  prepared  for  the  entry  of 
such  data. 


o  Textile  Manufacturers'  Journal,  May  Hi,  1914,  p.  35. 


30 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


Confidential. 


Establishment  No. 


UNITED   STATES  DEPARTMENT  OP  COMMERCE, 
BUREAU   OP  FOREIGN  AND   DOMESTIC  COMMERCB, 

WASHINGTON. 


Unit  Schedule — Hosiery. 

Unit  schedules  should  be  obtained  for  men's  hose,  women's  hose,  children's  hose 
or  infants'  hose.  * 


Unit:  One 

A  unit  schedule  should  be  used  for  each  unit. 


(A)  WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL  PRICES. 


Price  to  jobbers. 

l*rlce  to  retailers. 

Usual  original  retail  price. 

Gross  price. 

Usual 

per  cent 

discount. 

Net  price. 

Gross  price. 

Usual 
per  cent 
discount. 

Net  price. 

StyleA,f 

% 

t 

s 

S 

StyleB,$ 

StyleC,$ 

StyleD,$ 

StyleE,$ 

StyleF,$ 

Secure  samples  of  hosiery  for  each  style. 


(B)  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  HOSIERY. 


Specifications. 

Style  A. 

Style  B. 

Style  C. 

Style  D. 

Style  E. 

Style  F. 

1.  For 

2.  Yam 

3.  Made 

4.  Welt 



5.  Heel 

6.  Toe 

6.  Needles 

1.  Men,  women,  children,  or  infants. 

2.  Cotton,  wooljvorsted,  silk,  or  artificial  silk.    Abbreviate  to  C,  W.,  Wd.,  S  ,  or  A.  S.,  and  hyphenate 

3.  Seamless  or  full  fashioned. 

4.  Selvaged  or  ribbed  top  or  sewed  or  int^ral  welt. 

5.  Looped  or  sewed. 

6.  Number  per  inch  on  fiat  machines.    Outside  diameter  of  cylinder  in  inches  and  number  of  needles  in 
circumference  on  cxrcular  machines,  as  "3J-220.'*  ""«^»oa  lu 


INTRODUCTION. 


(C)  MATERIALS  USED  IN  UNIT. 


31 


Specifications. 

Style  A. 

Style  B. 

Style  C. 

Style  D. 

Style  E. 

Style  F. 

1.  Kind 

2.  Ounces 

3.  Price  per  pound 

4.  Cost 

v.*.. 

5.  Kind 



6.  Ounces 

7.  Price  per  pound 

8.  Cost 

9.  Kind 

10.  Ounces 

11.  Price  per  pound 

12.  Cost 

13.  Kind 

14.  Ounces 

15.  IMce  per  pound 

m 

_ 

16.  Cost 

17.            Total  yam  cost 

% 

% 

S 

s 

s 

s 

\' 


1,  5,  9,  13.  Trade  name,  abbreviated  as  directed  on  list  of  yams. 

2,  6,  10,  14.  Used  in  making  1  dozen  pairs  of  hose. 

3,  7, 11,  15.  Present  gross  price  per  pound. 

4, 8, 12,  16.  Gross  cost  of  each  kmd  of  yam  used  in  making  unit. 
17.  Gross  cost  of  all  kinds  used  in  unit. 

(D)  COST  OF  MATERIALS  IN  UNIT. 


Items. 

Style  A. 

Style  B. 

Style  C. 

style  D. 

style  E. 

style  F. 

1.  Findings 

1 

$ 

* 

s 

1 S 

2.  Boxes 

3.  Needles 

4.  Seconds 

...... 

5.  Gross  cost,  sundries 

% 

S 

s 

s 

s 

$ 

6.  Gross  cost,  yam  (C-17) 

7.            Total  gross  cost,  all 
materials 

8.  Discoimt  at  —  per  cent, 
amount 

9.            Netcost  all  materials. 

( 

1 

1.  Total  all  materials  not  specified,  but  not  to  include  cost  of  chemicals  used  in  bleaching  or  dyeing. 

2.  Cardboard  boxes,  also  paper,  twine,  and  labels. 
4.  Includes  waste. 

8.  Percentage  A-11  is  of  A- 10  on  the  establishment  schedule. 

(E)  DIRECT  LABOR  COST  OF  UNIT. 


Operations. 

Style  A. 

Style  B. 

Style  C. 

Style  D. 

Style  E. 

Style  F. 

1.  Bleaching  or  dyeing.- 

2.  Winding  and  knittmg 

1 

$ 

% 

s 

s... 

s 

3.  Looping 

4.  Sewmg 

5.  Finishing 

6.            Total  direct  labor 

1 

1 

1.  Includes  cost  of  chemicals. 

2.  Includes  ribbing. 

4.  Sewing  heels  or  toes  of  hase. 

5.  Includes  boarding,  boxing,  and  all  oi>erations  not  specified. 


32 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


(F)  TOTAL  NET  COST  OF  UNIT. 


Summary. 

Style  A. 

Style  B. 

Style  C. 

Style  D. 

Style  E. 

Style  F. 

1.  Materiar(D-9) 

1 

$ 

f 

s 

1 

g 

2.  Direct  labor  (E-6) 

3.  Overhead  charges,  as  com- 
puted by  establishment. . 

4.            Total  net  cost 

Each  unit  was  one  dozen  garments  of  a  speciiied  style.  The 
amount  paid  for  each  kind  of  material  used  was  ascertamed,  also 
the  amount  paid  for  each  direct  labor  operation.  These  items  the 
manufacturers  could  easily  give.  Wliat  the  trade  commonly  calls 
''overhead"  was  found  by  computatum,  according  to  the  method 
called  ''the  dual  method,"  explained  on  page  156, in  a  section  of  this 
report  headed  "Simplified  cost  accounting." 

Many  manufacturers  were  interviewed  by  special  agents  of  the 
Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce  in  regard  to  subjects  re- 
lating to  the  knit  underwear  industry  that  were  not  included  in  either 
the  establishment  schedule  or  unit  schedule,  and  much  valuable  in- 
formation regarding  general  trade  conditions  was   thus  obtained. 

By  arrangement  with  the  Secretary  of  Labor,  special  agents  of  the 
Bureau  of  Labor  Statistics  gathered  information  from  manuf  actiu-ers  of 
hosiery  in  regard  to  the  number  of  their  employees,  the  hours  of  work, 
the  weekly  earnings,  and  the  working  conditions  of  the  employees 
in  1914.  Such  information  is  presented  under  the  heading  "Wages 
and  hours  of  labor,"  pages  198  to  217  of  this  report. 

The  plan  of  the  Biu-eau  of  ForeigTi  and  Domestic  Commerce  to 
obtain  data  regarding  the  cost  of  production  of  knit  underwear  in 
European  countries  was  interrupted  by  the  beginning  of  the  war  in 
Europe  in  August,  1914. 


SUMMARY. 

CAPITAL,  PBOFTT,  AND  TUBNOVEB. 

The  73  establishments  for  which  data  were  obtained  reported  cap- 

'^919^^?^^  m  business  amounting  to  $15,548,885,  an  average  of 
$212,988  per  establishment.  ^ 

In  tabulating  the  data  the  establishments  were  divided  into  seven 
groups,  accordmg  to  materials  used,  according  to  product,  and  to 
fXw"^  accordmg  to  locations.    These  seven  groups  are  as 

Group  I  includes  9  miUs  knitting  fuU-fashioned  hose,  or  both  full- 
fashioned  and  seamless  hose,  made  of  silk  or  cotton  or  silk  and  cotton 

""^i  V  iP;  *u?^^  ^^^  f  ^^^^  fuU-f ashioned  hose  exclusively  and  5 
made  fuU-fashioned  and  seamless  hose.     Of  the  9  mills  5  were  in 
Fennsylyama  and  1  each  in  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  New  York 
and  Indiana.  '  ' 

\.^^^^^n¥'  "Jf^^^^^  16. northern  mills  knitting  seamless  cotton 
hosiery  (15  m  Pennsylvania  and  1  in  New  York) 

l.nSl^''V-^  ^^^^4^^  }^  l?""^^^^  "^^  knitting  seamless  cotton 
^.  I  Tv.^n'"'  ^^""^^^^^  4  m  North  Carolina,  3  in  Malyland,  and  1  each 
m  South  Carohna,  Tennessee,  and  Missouri). 

Group  IV  includes  11  mills  knitting  seaniless  hosiery  of  silk  or  of 
cotton  and  silk  mLxtures  (aU  in  Pennsylvania) 

Group  y  includes  9  mills  knitting  seamless  hosiery  of  silk  or  of 
cotton  and  silk  mixtures  (4  m  Wisconsin,  3  in  Ohio,  and  2  in  Illinois). 

Group  VI  includes   4   mills  knitting  seamless  hosiery  of  wool 
worsted,  mermo    and  cotton  mixtures  (2  in  Illinois  and  1  each  in 
Pennsylvama  and  Maryland). 

kr^fc^  V^  T^"^^^^  ^  "^^  ^^^^  ^P^  ^^  ^^  ««°^^  ^f  tlieir  yams  and 
font  seamless  hosiery,  mostly  of  wool,  merino,  and  cotton  mixtures 

McMgtraSXt^^^^    '  ^^^^  ^  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island, 

P«I^^  Reports  show  great  differences  in  the  percentage  of  profit 
earned  by  hosiery  f actones.  The  fact  that  a  factory  hid  a  loss  or 
made  a  very  small  profit  may  have  been  due  to  seveVal  cLes  such 
as  (a)  poor  shop  management,  (6)  antiquated  machinery,  (c  poor 
cost-accounting  system,  W)  poor  selling  methods,  {e)  too  little  care 

d^ra^Tri^th't '^-^  ^^^  ^t'\^^  ''^'''^'  '^^''^^  (^)  too  much  wX 
drawn  from  the  business  by  the  owner,  partnei-s,  or  officers. 

its  and  18  LTw^^^  '"P""'^^'  ''  '^^'^  manufacturing  prof- 
and^^Tf?^•  ^^^^^^^t^ring  profit  on  net  sales  was  6.66  per  cent, 
Jer^eit'^tS^^^^  ^'^  '  manufacturing  profit  of  mor^  than  5 
r.J^.^.  average  manufacturing  profit  on  capital  employed  in  business 
If  mi-\\P''  T^'  ^^^  2^  establishments  had  a  maCTctu W  p^^^^^^^^ 
of  more  than  10  per  cent  on  capital  employed  in  business. 


9963''— 15- 


33 


34 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY. 


The  per  cent  of  manufacturing  profit  on  the  investment  and  the 
net  sales  is  shown  by  groups  in  Tablo  13. 

Table  13. — Percentages  op  Manufacturing  Profits,  by  Groups  and  Combi- 
nations OP  Groups  of  Establishments, 


Classiflcation. 


All  mills  reporting  data 

Mills  making — 

Seamless  hosiery 

Seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all  yams 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless 

hosiery  (East  and  West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania  and  New 

York). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (Pennsylvania). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed  (East, 

West,  and  South). 
Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yarns  (Eastand  West). 


Groups. 


I  to  VII. 

II  to  VII 
II  to  VI. 
I 

II 

Ill 

IV 

V 

VI 

VII 


Estab- 

lish- 

meuts. 


73 

64 

56 

9 

16 

16 

11 

9 

4 


Per  cent  of  manu- 
facturing profit  on— 


Capital 
em- 

gloyedin 
usiness. 


11.56 

9.60 

9.41 

15.50 

2.95 

14.30 
6.85 

14.68 
4.05 

10.07 


Net 
sales. 


6.66 

5.52 
5.05 
8.92 

1.76 

7.60 
3.83 
6.56 
2.32 

7.08 


As  shown  by  the  foregoing  table,  the  per  cent  of  manufacturing 
profit  earned  by  all  mills  reporting,  Groups  I  to  VII,  was  11.56  on 
capital  employed  in  business  and  6.66  on  net  sales. 

The  per  cent  earned  by  all  mills  making  seamless  hosiery  (Groups 
II  to  VII)  was  9.60  on  capital  employed  in  business  and  5.52  on 
net  sales. 

The  per  cent  earned  by  aU  mills  making  seamless  hosiery  and  buy- 
ing all  yams  (Groups  II  to  VI)  was  9.41  on  capital  employed  in  busi- 
ness and  5.05  on  net  sales. 

The  group  showing  the  highest  percentage  of  profit  is  Group  I, 
composed  of  mills  making  fuU-fashioned  or  full-fashioned  and  seam- 
less hosiery,  in  wliich  the  percentage  was  15.5  on  capital  emj>loyed 
in  business  and  8.92  on  net  sales. 

Most  of  the  full-fashioned  hosiery  manufactured  in  the  United 
States  is  made  of  silk  or  partly  of  silk,  and  moat  of  the  seamless 
hosiery  is  made  of  cotton.  Under  tariff  acts  pn^vious  to  the  one 
that  went  into  effect  on  October  4,  1913,  the  rate  of  duty  on  cotton 
hosiery  was  higher  than  the  rate  on  silk  hosiery.  This  led  to  a 
very  rapid  increase  in  the  production  of  seamless  cotton  hosiery, 
which  resulted  in  severe  competition  among  domestic  manufacturers 
of  that  product.  The  more  rapid  increase  in  the  manufacture  of 
seamless  nosiery  than  of  fuU-fashioned  hosiery  in  tlie  United  States 
is  probably  due  to  the  fact  that  machinery  for  seamless  hosiery  is 
much  less  expensive  than  full-fashioning  machinery  and  to  the  fact 
that  much  less  skill  is  required  to  o])erate  the  former  than  the  latter. 

Of  the  mills  making  seamless  cotton  hosiery,  the  average  percentage 
of  profit  earned  by  the  mills  in  Group  III,  composed  of  16  miUs 
located  in  the  South,  was  nearly  ^\e  times  as  large  as  the  average 
percentage  earned  by  the  mills  in  Group  II,  composed  of  15  miUs  m 
Pennsylvania  and  1  in  New  York.  This  great  difference  may  be 
accounted  for  to  some  extent  by  the  higher  wages  paid  in  Pennsyl- 
vania mills  than  in  southern  mills,  but  may  also  be  explained  in 


35 


part  by  the  fact  that,  generally  speaking,  the  mills  in  the  South, 
as  well  as  those  in  the  West,  are  of  more  recent  construction  and  are 
equipped  with  more  modern  machinery  than  are  most  of  the  mills 
in  Pennsylvania. 

Table  13  shows  that  the  profit  on  capital  employed  in  business  was 
nearly  twice  as  much  as  the  profit  on  net  sales.  While  some  estab- 
hshments  made  small  percentages  of  profit  on  their  net  sales,  they 
made  large  percentages  of  profit  on  the  capital  actually  invested 
in  the  business.  This  was  due  to  the  fact  that  in  some  estabhsh- 
ments  the  capital  was  turned  over  more  frequently  than  in  others. 
The  ratio  of  the  net  sales  to  the  capital  employed  is  shown  in  Table  14. 

Table  14.— Capital  Turnover  or  Ratio  of  Net  Sales,  to  Capital  Employed  in 
THE  Business,  by  Groups  and  Combinations  of  Groups  op  Establishments. 


Classification. 


All  mills  reporting  data 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosiery 

Seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all  yams 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery  "(East 
and  West) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  ( Pennsylvania  and  New  York)! ....... 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) '.'.'.'.'. 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  ( Pennsylvania) .. ......... 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed  (East,  West,  aiid 
South) 

Seamless  hosiery,  and  spiiming  yams  (East  and  West)...! ! ! ! ! 


Groups. 


itovn. 


IltoVn. 
II  to  VI.. 


I... 
II-. 
III. 
IV. 

v.. 


VI.. 
VII. 


Establish- 
ments. 


73 

64 
56 

9 
16 
16 
11 

9 

4 

8 


Ratio 

of  net 

sales  to 

capital. 


L74 


74 

86 


1.74 
1.67 
1.88 
1.79 
2.24 

1.75 
1.46 


The  ratio  of  the  average  net  sales  to  the  capital  employed  varied 
from  1.46  in  Group  VII  to  2.24  in  Group  V,  th.e  average  for  all  estab- 
lishments (Groups  I  to  VII)  being  1.74. 

In  considering  the  foregoing  tables,  it  should  be  understood  that 
the  salaries  of  active  officers  and  of  partners  were  included  in  the  cost 
of  production  before  profits  were  figured.  Likewise,  in  the  case  of 
an  individual  owner  of  an  estabhshment,  the  costs  included  the  esti- 
mated amount  he  would  have  to  pay  an  employee  for  service  such  as 
he  himself  performed. 

It  is  important  also  to  understand  that  before  profits  were  figured 
all  expenses  for  selling  were  included  in  the  cost  of  production. 

Furthermore,  depreciation  was  added  as  an  expense  before  profits 
and  losses  were  computed.  It  was  calculated  on  the  inventoried 
value  of  the  machinery  and  fixtures  at  the  rate  Of  5  per  cent  in  full- 
fashioning  mills  and  10  per  cent  in  seamless-hosiery  mills.  Many 
establishments  kept  no  depreciation  account  on  their  books  and  did 
not  take  it  into  consideration  in  figuring  profits  or  losses.  Of  the 
73  estabhshments,  only  20  had  reserves  for  depreciation.  Some 
establishments  which  showed  on  their  books  profits  earned  durint^ 
their  last  business  years  showed  losses  when  depreciation  was  adde3 
to  other  expenses. 

COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  GROUPS  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS. 

The  data  furnished  by  the  73  establishments  reporting  show  that 
during  their  last  business  year  their  net  sales  averaged  $370,012  per 
establishment,  and  the  cost  of  the  goods  they  sold  averaged  $345,385. 
I  heir  manufacturing  profit  averaged  $24,627  and  their  final  profit 
$20,927. 


;  U 


36 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY'. 


37 


Tables  15  and  16  show,  by  groups  and  summaries  of  groups,  the 
average  net  sales,  cost  of  goods  sold,  manufacturing  profit  and  final 
profit,  and  the  percentages  of  cost  based  on  the  total  manufacturing 
and  sellmg  expense  of  the  establishments  during  their  last  business 
year  or  period. 

Table  15.— Net  Sales,  Cost  op  Goods  Sold,  and  Manufacturing  and  Final 
Profit,  by  Groups  and  Combinations  op  Groups  op  Establishments. 


Groups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Average  per  estnblishment. 

Classification. 

Net 
sales. 

Cost  of 

goods 

sold. 

Manu- 
facturing 
profit. 

Final 
profit. 

All  mills  reporting  data 

itovn... 

II  to  VII. . 
II  to VI... 

I 

73 

64 
56 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 

4 

8 

$370,012 

281,433 

246,692 

999,909 

162,685 

284,944 
229,890 

296, 142 

364,659 

524,618 

$345,385 

2«Vi.887 
2;{4,228 

910, 704 

159,819 

2rt.S,288 
221,086 

276, 701 

356,201 

487,502 

•24,627 

15,546 
12,464 

89,205 

2,866 

21,656 
8,804 

19,441 

8,458 

:57,116 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosiery 

$20, 927 

Seamless  hosiery   and   buying  all 

yarns. 
Full-fashioned ,  or  both  full-fashioned 

12,  .'>99 
9,505 

80,148 

O500 

18,701 
7,599 

14,a56 

5,713 

34,256 

and  seamless  hosiery  (East  and 

West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsyl- 

sylvania  and  New  York). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk 

(Pennsylvania). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk 

II 

Ill 

IV 

V 

(West). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton 

mixed  (East,  West,  and  South). 
Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yarns 

(East  and  West). 

VI 

VII 

o  Loss. 

Table  16.— Percentages  op  Average  Costs,  by  Specified  Items  and  by  Groups 
OP  Establishments,  Based  on  the  Total  Man ufacti  ring  and  Selling 
Expense. 


Groups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
lish- 

ments. 

I'er  cent  of  total  cost  of  goods  nuuiufactured. 

Classification. 

Raw 
material. 

Direct 
labor. 

Indirect 
labor. 

Factory 
expense. 

Admin- 
istrative 
expense. 

Selling 
expense. 

All  mills  reporting  data 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosiery 

I  to VII... 

II  to  VII.. 
II  to  VI... 

I 

73 

64 
56 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 

4 

8 

52.82 

53.^7 
55. 15 

51.  35 

52. 99 

58.  52 
51.  S9 

46.  85 
70.25 

47.  51 

24.73 

22.69 
21.83 

29.35 

25.28 

21.22 
26.96 

17.76 
15.68 

25.75 

4.38 

4.37 
3.91 

4.41 

4.17 

4.15 
5.16 

3.33 
1.67 

6.01 

5.47 

5.60 
5.34 

5.17 

6.28 

5.80 
4.68 

4.69 
4.76 

6.62 

3.20 

3.54 
3.59 

2.43 

3.04 

3.57 
3.86 

4.51 
2.52 

3.34 

9.40 

Seamless    hosiery     and 

buying  all  yarns. 
Full-fashioned    or    both 

10.33 
10.18 

full-fashioned  and 
seamless  hosiery  (East 
and  West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery 

II 

7.29 

(Pennsylvania     and 
New  York). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery 
(South). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cot- 
ton and  silk  (Pennsyl- 
vania). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cot- 

Ill  

IV 

V 

8.24 

6.74 
7.45 

ton  and  silk  (West). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  wool 

and      cotton      mixed 

(East,       West,      and 

South). 
Seamless    hosiery,    and 

spinning  yarns  (East 

and  West). 

VI 

VII 

22.86 
5.12 

10.87 

Success  in  the  hosiery  industry  depends  largely  upon  the  good 
judgment  of  the  manufacturer  in  buying  cotton,  wool,  cotton  yarns, 
woolen  yarns,  or  silk  yarns.  Other  factors  of  success  are  the 
possession  of  sufiicient  capital,  modern  factt)ry  equipment,  efficient 
factory  management,  and  the  efficiency  of  the  selhng  organization. 
It  is  practicallv  impossible  to  trace  statistically  the  effect  of  each  of 
these  reasons  for  successful  business,  but  a  study  of  the  percentages 
of  the  item  of  cost  of  the  product,  as  shown  by  tables  in  the  body 
of  this  report,  will,  at  least  to  some  extent,  indicate  whether  or  not 
the  general  management  of  an  establishment  is  efficient. 

For  good  business  reasons  an  estabhshment  may  have  a  laro-er 
proportionate  expense  than  the  average  for  materials,  for  direct 
labor,  and  for  indirect  labor,  and  many  estabhshments  have  found  it 
profitable  to  spend  more  than  the  average  for  seUing — that  is,  to  pay 
higher  salaries  or  commissions  for  salesmen  of  unusual  ability — but 
if  the  percentages  for  many  items  are  much  greater  than  the  average 
of  simdar  establishments,  the  profits,  if  any,  will  be  below  that  of  the 
average. 

It  should,  however,  not  be  assumed  that  an  estabhshment  whose 
proportion  of  expenditure  for  labor  was  less  than  that  of  other  estab- 
lishments paid  lower  salaries  or  wages  to  its  employees  than  did  the 
others.  On  the  contrary,  the  earnings  of  individual  employees  might 
be  greater  in  an  establishment  with  a  low  percentage  of  labor  cost 
because  of  the  fact  that  they  were  more  skilled  than  ordinary 
employees,  or  because  superior  shop  arrangements  or  better  manage- 
ment enabled  them  to  turn  out  a  larger  product  per  worker  than 
could  be  done  by  workers  in  other  factories. 

Among  the  73  establishments  that  reported  data  there  were  large 
variations  in  the  percentages  of  cost  of  production  and  the  percentages 
of  profit.  Of  the  73  estabhshments,  11  made  a  manufacturing  profit 
of  over  10  per  cent  on  net  sales  and  18  did  business  at  a  loss. 

Of  the  11  establishments  wdth  a  manufacturing  profit  of  over  10 
per  cent,  the  percentages  for  direct  labor  of  7  were  higher  and  of  4 
were  lower  than  those  of  their  respective  groups  or  of  the  general 
average. 

Of  the  18  establishments  having  losses,  the  percentages  for  direct 
labor  of  13  were  higher  and  of  5  were  lower  than  those  of  their  respec- 
tive groups  or  of  the  general  average. 

COST  AND  PBOFIT  BY  SPECIFIED  UNITS. 

From  many  of  the  establishments  that  made  reports  details  were 
obtained  with  regard  to  the  cost  of  producing  specific  styles  of  hosiery. 
Manufacturers,  even  those  that  are  most  unsystematic  in  cost  account- 
ing, are  always  able  to  tell  what  is  the  cost  of  the  direct  labor  in  a 
dozen  pairs  of  hose,  a  dozen  being  the  trade  unit  of  production. 
They  can  easily  do  this,  because  practically  all  direct  labor  operations 
are  performed  by  pieceworkers.  The  manufacturer  also  can  easily 
teU  the  quantity  and  cost  of  the  material  that  is  used  in  making  a 
dozen  pairs  of  any  style. 

The  ''overhead''  charges  on  all  units  specified  in  this  report  were 
computed  according  to  a  uniform  method,  on  the  basis  of  the  over- 
head expenses  of  the  establishment  during  its  last  busmess  year,  as 
shown  by  the  estabhshment  schedule. 


I 


38 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY. 


39 


Some  establishments  have  such  crude  systems  for  cost  finding  that 
they  do  not  know  exactly,  or  even  approximately,  their  profit  or  loss 
on  certain  styles.  Such  unsystematic  estabhshmouts  may  continue 
for  a  long  time  to  sell  particular  styl{»s  of  hose  at  a  loss  without  know- 
ing it.  Some  establishments,  however,  knowing  acciu-ately  what  a 
certain  style  costs,  will  sell  it  on  a  small  margin  of  profit,  or  even  at  a 
loss,  for  the  purpose  of  attracting  custom  for  mon^  profitable  styles. 
An  establishment  may  find  it  necessary  to  carry  a  complete  line  of 
styles  in  order  to  meet  the  demands  of  its  customers  and  to  hold  its 
trade,  and  may  consider  it  good  business  poUcy  to  sell  at  or  below 
cost  certain  styles  to  customc^rs  who  will  buy  higher  priced  goods  on 
which  a  good  profit  is  realized. 

In  examining  the  data  relating  to  the  cost  of  the  units  specified  in 
this  report  one  is  struck  with  the  gr(mt  differences  in  the  profits  on 
the  various  grades  of  hosiery.  These  differences  occur  on  hosic^ry  of 
the  same  grade,  and  even  on  hosiery  of  practically  the  same  grade 
made  by  the  same  estabhshment.  table  17  shows  the  average  per- 
centages of  manufacturing  profit  on  ladies'  hosiery  of  high,  medium, 
and  low  grades. 

Table  17.— Percentages  op  Manufacturixg  Profits  on  High.  Medium,  and 
Low  Grades  op  Hosiery,  Based  on  the  Average  Net  Price  per  Dozen  Pairs 
Sold  to  Retailers. 


Description, 


Ladies'  full-fashioned  hose. . . 
Ladies'  seamless  cotton  hose . 


High 
grade. 


a  15  21 
25,17 


Medium 
grade. 


^>  11. 83 
14.61 


Low 
grade. 

c  d  2. 72 
4.70 


a  One  style  of  silk  and  3  of  silk  and  cotton.  b  Mercerized  cotton.  r  Cotton.         d  Loss, 

The  percentages  of  profit  on  the  grades  of  full-fashioned  hosiery 
for  which  data  were  secured  were  not  so  large  as  tlie  percentages  of 
profit  on  seamless  hosiery  for  which  data  were  secured,  although 
the  establishment  tables  show  that  the  mills  reporting  which  made 
full-fashioned  hosiery  earned  a  greater  average  percentage  of  profit 
than  the  mills  reporting  which  made  seamless  hosiery. 

The  competition  with  foreign-made  hosiery  is  almost  entirely  on 
low-priced  full-fashioned  hosiery.  Tliis  low-priced  f)roduct  is  made 
of  cotton,  and  the  duty  on  it  varies  from  30  to  50  per  cent  ad  valorem 
according  to  value.  Medium  and  high  priced  full-fashioned  hosiery 
is  made  of  silk  or  mostly  of  silk  and  mercerized  cotton  and  the  duty 
of  50  per  cent  on  such  a  product,  covering  both  the  expensive  silk 
material  and  labor,  is  sufficient  to  exclude  foreign  competition. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  percentage  of  profit  on  the  ladies' 
seamless  cotton  hose  was  very  much  higher  on  the  high  grades  than 
on  the  medium  grades,  and  also  very  much  higher  on  the  medium 
grades  than  on  the  low  grades. 

MANUFACTUEING  CONDITIONS. 

A  long-established  custom  compels  retailers  to  sell  hosiery  at  fixed 
prices— 25  cents,  50  cents,  $1,  etc.  The  public,  educated  to  these 
prices,  looks  with  suspicion  on  odd-priced  goods.  The  standard 
retail  prices  are  a  great  handicap  to  the  manufacturer.  He  must 
always  figure  his  cost  of  production  with  these  fixcid  retail  prices  in 
view.  ^ 


During  recent  years  the  expenses  of  retailers  for  rent,  salaries, 
advertising,  and  delivery  have  largely  increased.  Not  being  able  to 
increase  the  prices  at  which  hosiery  is  sold,  retailers  must  purchase 
goods  cheaper  than  they  formerly  did.  The  jobber  who  sells  to  the 
retailer  must,  to  make  his  former  profit,  sell  cheaper  than  he  did 
formerly,  and  therefore  must  buy  cheaper  from  the  manufacturer. 
But  the  cost  of  manufacturing  has  been  increased  by  the  higher  cost 
of  labor  and  materials,  by  the  demand  for  finer  goods,  by  the  neces- 
sity for  constantly  purchasing  machinery,  and  by  the  enactment  of 
workingmen's  compensation  acts  and  stricter  child-labor  laws.  While 
the  expenses  of  manufacturers  have  thus  largely  increased,  they  are 
compelled  to  sell  goods  cheaper  than  formerly.  This  condition  leads 
to  cut-throat  competition  among  them.  Many  of  them  believe  that 
they  would  be  greatly  benefited  if  hosiery  were  retailed  at  odd  amounts. 

There  is  a  tendency  toward  larger  factories  in  the  hosiery  and  knit- 
goods  industries.  As  shown  by  the  Census  of  Manufactures,  there 
were  1,006  such  factories  in  1899,  and  they  had  83,691  employees, 
an  average  of  83  employees  per  factory,  while  10  years  later  there 
were  1,374  factories,  with  129,275  employees,  an  average  of  94 
employees  per  factory.  The  table  giving  the  percentages  of  profit  of 
the  estabUshments  reporting  in  this  investigation  shows  that  there 
were  no  decided  differences  in  these  percentages  between  the  smaller 
and  the  larger  establishments. 

In  former  years,  when  competition  was  less  keen,  many  hosiery 
factories  which  started  on  a  very  limited  capital  were  successful.  At 
that  time  profits  were  suflB.cient  to  stand  the  enormous  drain  due  to 
cancellations,  inefficient  methods,  etc.  At  the  present  time,  when 
profits  have  been  reduced,  due  to  competition  resulting  from  great 
expansion  of  the  business,  there  is  absolute  need  of  putting  manu- 
facturing establishments  on  an  economical  and  efficient  basis.  For- 
merly a  Dadly  located,  poorly  managed,  inefficient  plant  could  make 
a  profit.  Now  all  is  changed,  and  the  manufacturer  of  hosiery,  in 
order  to  attain  success,  must  have  a  mill  equipped  with  up-to-date 
machinery,  managed  in  an  economical  and  scientific  maimer,  with  a 
system  of  cost  accounting  which  will  enable  him  at  all  times  to  know 
the  true  condition  of  his  business  and  the  actual  cost  of  every  article 
produced. 

SIMPLIFIED  COST  ACCOUNTING. 

The  hosiery  and  knit-goods  industries  in  the  United  States  suffer 
from  the  lack  of  an  adequate  cost-finding  system  to  determine  the 
actual  costs  of  certain  grades  of  the  production.  There  is  a  variety 
of  methods  of  calculating  the  charge  for  general  expense,  and  many 
of  them  are  very  crude.  This  leads  to  unintelligent  price  making 
and  ruinous  competition. 

A  very  few  factories  have,  at  considerable  expense,  installed  cost- 
finding  systems,  while  some  others  seem  to  have  almost  no  system 
at  all.  Some  manufacturers  who  have  adopted  a  really  scientific 
cost-finding  system  have  learned  that  they  could  not  sell  certain 
grades  of  goods  at  prices  based  on  costs  found  by  the  system,  because 
competitors  who  calculated  costs  by  an  imperfect  method  would 
imdersell  them. 

Most  manufacturers  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  admit  that  the  lack 
of  an  accurate  and  uniform  method  of  cost  finding  is  a  drawback 
which  seriously  interferes  with  the  prosperity  of  the  industry.     The 


40 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY. 


41 


matter  has  been  discussed  in  the  trade  journals  and  in  the  annual 
paeetings  of  the  trade  associations  as  one  of  the  questions  of  greatest 
importance  to  the  industry,  but  so  far  without  residts. 

The  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwetir  Manufacturers 
has  considered  the  matter  for  years",  but  has  been  unable  to  agree 
on  a  standard  for  distributing  overhead  expense.  An  address  on 
^'Operating  costs  and  economies/'  read  before  the  annual  conv<mtion 
of  the  association  at  its  convention  held  in  Philadelphia  in  1914, 
shows  how  much  at  sea  manufacturers  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  are 
with  regard  to  cost  accounting.  The  proceedings  of  the  conv<mtion 
say: 

At  the  conclusion  of  this  address  the  president  remarked  that  the  committee  on 
cost  accounting,  which  was  appointed  last  year,  has  been  cart^fully  considering  this 
subject,  but  that  it  has  not  arrived  at  any  definite  conclusion  its  to  the  best  methods 
of  cost  accounting,  and  asked  that  the  committee  be  continued. 

On  the  units  specified  in  this  report  the  ''overh(^ad"  charges  were 
computed  accordmg  to  a  uniform  mothod,  which  is  explained  under 
''The  dual  method,''  in  a  section  of  the  report  headed  ''Simplified 
cost  accoxmting"  (p.  153).  The  overhead  for  indii-ect  labor  and  for 
factory  expense  was  computed  on  the  basis  of  the  direct  labor,  and 
the  overhead  for  administrative  and  selling  costs  were  computed  on 
the  selling  price. 

SELLING  METHODS. 

Data  secured  from  the  73  hosiery  establishments  reporting  show 
that  of  their  total  net  sales  51.04  per  cent  was  made  to  jobbers, 
4.08  per  cent  through  commission  houses,  44.83  per  cent  to  retailers, 
and  0.05  per  cent  was  exported. 

The  average  manufacturing  profit  on  the  net  sales  of  establish- 
ments that  sold  more  than  50  per  cent  to  jobbers  or  through  com- 
mission houses  was  6.56  per  cent,  and  of  establishments  that  sold 
more  than  50  per  cent  to  retailers,  7.18  per  cent. 

Among  hosiery  manufacturers  there  nas  been  in  recent  years  a 
decided  tendency  to  change  from  selling  to  jobbers  to  selling  direct 
to  retailers.  This  tendency  is  particulany  noticeabhi  among  W(^stem 
manufacturers. 

The  manufacturer  who  sells  direct  to  the  retail  trade  is  put  to 
much  ^eater  selling  expense  than  would  be  requii-ed  to  market  his 

foods  if  he  sold  to  jobbers  or  thxougli  commission  houses.  Further, 
e  has  to  raanufacture  and  carry  a  much  more  divi^rsified  and  larger 
stock  of  finished  goods.  He  also  has  to  wait  longer  for  his  money  and 
undergoes  a  greater  risk  of  loss  through  bad  accounts. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  manufacturer  who  sells  to  retailers  receives 
higher  prices  for  his  goods,  and  once  a  line  of  customers  has  been 
established  he  is  more  certain  to  hold  them  than  is  the  case  when  he 
deals  with  jobbers.  Besides  making  larger  profits,  tlie  producer  who 
sells  to  retailers  has  a  greater  opportimity  for  expanding  and  enlarg- 
ing his  business  than  one  who  ties  himself  up  with  jobbers  or  com- 
mission houses. 

One  reason  why  some  hosiery  manufacturers  have  not  been  pros- 
perous during  recent  years  is  on  account  of  the  large  initial  expense 
of  changing  from  selling  to  jobbers  to  selling  to  retailers.  In  the 
process  of  building  up  a  trade  with  retailers  an  esta})lishment  incurs 
large  expense,  and  therefore  it  may  have  small  profits,  or  perhaps 
losses,  in  the  beginning,  but  after  it  has  estabhshed  a  trade  with 


retailers  its  profits  may  be  greater  than  they  were  when  the  larger 
part  of  its  product  was  sold  to  jobbers. 

The  advantages  in  selling  to  jobbers  or  through  commission  houses 
are  that  the  manufacturer  is  relieved  of  great  expense  for  actual 
selling  and  advertising,  is  not  so  liable  to  losses  due  to  bad  debts, 
and  has  the  advantage  of  knowing  ahead  just  about  what  his  business 
for  the  year  will  be.  Many  jobbers  and  commission  houses  will  ad- 
vance money  to  manufacturers,  and  this  is  a  distinct  advantage  to 
theproducer  who  has  limited  capital. 

The  average  percentages  of  selling  cost  and  manufacturing  profit, 
based  on  net  sales,  for  the  establismnents  in  different  group  combi- 
nations were  as  follows: 

All  establishments  reporting:  Total  selling  cost,  8.31  per  cent,  of 
which  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  were  4.54  per 
cent;  manufacturing  profits,  6.66  per  cent. 

Establishments  making  seamless  hosiery:  Total  selling  cost,  9.5 
per  cent,  of  which  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  were 
4.91  per  cent;  manufacturing  profits,  5.52  per  cent. 

Estabhshments  making  seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all  of  their 
yams:  Total  selling  cost,  9.52  per  cent,  of  which  salaries,  commis- 
sions, and  expense  of  salesmen  were  4.35  per  cent;  manufacturing 
profits,  5.05  per  cent. 

Establishments  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  buying  all 
of  their  yarns:  Total  selling  costs,  6.54  per  cent,  of  which  salaries, 
commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  were  4.06  per  cent;  manufac- 
turing profit,  5.48  per  cent. 

The  cost  of  advertising  is  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  total 
selling  expense  of  some  manufacturers  that  sell  to  retailers.  Of  the 
73  estabhshments  reporting,  9  advertised  nationally — that  is,  adver- 
tised in  magazines  and  papers  with  a  national  circulation,  other  than 
trade  journals. 

Of  these  9  manufacturers,  6  sold  100  per  cent  of  their  product  to 
retailers;  1  sold  98  per  cent  to  retailers,  exporting  2  per  cent;  1  sold 
50  per  cent  to  retailers  and  50  per  cent  to  jobbers ;  and  1  did  not  state 
to  whom  he  sold.  Four  of  these  manufacturers  had  a  larger  percent- 
age of  profit  than  the  average  of  their  respective  groups,  4  had  a 
smaller  percentage  of  profit  than  the  average  of  their  respective  groups, 
and  1  had  a  loss. 

One  of  the  greatest  evils  from  which  the  hosiery  industry  suffers  is 
that  of  cancellations.  The  prices  of  cotton  and  wool  are  constantly 
fluctuating  and  often  fluctuate  greatly  within  a  few  months.  If  the 
prices  of  materials  should  fall,  the  market  price  of  hosiery  would  nat- 
urally fall,  and  a  buyer  who  puts  in  a  blanket  order  to  be  delivered 
after  several  months  can,  by  cancellation  of  a  considerable  part  of  the 
order,  put  a  heavy  loss  on  the  manufacturer.  - 

HOSIEBT  PRODUCTS. 

Hosiery  may  be  seamless,  full  fashioned,  or  cut  up.  Seamless 
hosiery  is  knit  without  seams  on  a  circular  machine.  Full-fashioned 
hosiery  is  knit  on  a  flat-frame  machine  and  in  the  proper  form  to 
make  a  stocking  or  sock  when  it  is  closed  by  seaming  or  looping. 
It  conforms  to  the  shape  of  the  foot,  ankle,  and  leg  better  than 
seamless  hosiery.  Cut-up  hosiery,  of  which  v^ry  httle  is  manufac- 
tured, consists  of  a  knitted  fabric  cut  to  shape  by  shears  and  then 
sewed  together. 


H 


4^ 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY. 


43 


Seamless  hosiery  had  its  beginning  in  America,  and  most  of  the 
hosiery  manufactured  in  this  country  is  of  the  seamless  variety.  In 
manufacturing  seamless  hosiery  the  labor  cost  is  smaller  than  the 
labor  cost  of  manufacturing  fuU-fashioned  hosiery.  Practically  no 
seamless  hosiery  is  imported. 

Hosiery  is  made  of^cotton,  merino,  wool,  worsted,  silk,  artificial 
silk,  and  silk  mixed  with  or  plated  upon  some  otlier  yarn.  C'otton 
is  the  material  most  largely  used.  For  the  finer  gradfes  mercerized 
cotton  yarns  are  used.  Merino  and  wool  are  much  less  used  than 
formerly.  In  the  last  two  or  three  years  the  demand  for  silk  hosiery 
has  greatly  increased,  and  silk-plated  and  artificial-silk  hosiery  has 
been  introduced. 

HOSBEBY  MACHmERY. 

Since  1890  about  every  five  years  has  seen  important  changes  in 
seamless-hosiery  machines.  In  1890  the  machine  was  sendautomatic, 
had  from  84  to  108  needles,  and  the  cylinder  and  neccQes  were  station- 
arv,  the  cam  rings  and  bobbins  rev()lving.  By  1895  machines  were 
fully  automatic  as  to  yam  changes,  had  up  to  160  needles,  and  were 
equipped  with  attachments  for  inserting  a  high  splicing.  By  1905 
still  finer  gauges  were  used,  with  more  yarn  changes.  Up  to  this  time 
a  two-charige-of-yarn  machine  was  the  one  in  common  use.  By  1907 
yarn  changes  increased  to  five  and  six,  and  the  machines  were  built 
with  revolving  cylinder  and  needles,  the  bobbins  and  cams  remaining 
stationary. 

The  standard  seamless-knitting  machine  of  to-day  has  latch  needles 
and  is  circular,  is  of  the  re  vol  ving-cy  finder  type,  and  has  at  least  four 
yarn  changes.  The  shaping  is  accom  plished  by  the  tension  being  loos- 
ened or  tightened.  Cylinder  diametc^rs  run  from  2i  inches  to  4  inches, 
3i  being  commonly  used.  Though  machines  contain  up  to  260  nee- 
dles, 220  is  the  one  most  frequently  used.  The  machine  is  of  high 
speed,  being  capable  of  from  230  to  270  revolutions  a  minute.  Ma- 
chines for  knitting  the  finest  quality  seamless  hosiery  have  up  to  21 J 
needles  to  the  inch  and  for  coarse  hosiery  as  few  as  5  needles  to  the 
inch. 

The  full-fashioning  machine  to-day  is  a  multiple-head  machine  of 
18  or  20  sections,  each  section  knitting  one  stocking.  The  machine 
is  made  in  all  gauges  from  18  to  32  needles  to  the  inch.  The  leg  por- 
tion of  the  stocking  is  knit  on  a  legging  machine  and  the  foot  portion 
on  a  footing  machine.  There  is  now  on  the  market  a  disthictive 
American  machine,  which  is  simpler  in  construction  than  the  foreign 
machine. 

The  flat  seamless  knitting  machine  is  not  used  in  factories,  but  in 
asylums.  State  institutions,  etc.  This  flat  seamless  machine  knits 
a  circular  web.  The  machine  is  not  fully  automatic  as  to  yam 
changes. 

The  ribbing  machine  for  seamless  hosiery  is  latch  needle  and  cir- 
cular and  is  made  in  all  diameters  from  If  inches  to  5  inches.  The 
machine  makes  any  kind  of  a  rib,  automaticaUy  cuts  the  rib,  and  has 
either  one  or  two  feeds. 

A  departure  from  the  present  seamless  principle  is  the  spring 
needle,  circular  machine,  for  seamless  hosiery,  which  has  recently 
been  introduced.  This  machine  is  intended  to  produce  the  fabric  of 
the  full-fashioned  machine  combined  with  the  production  of  the  cir- 
cular machine.     Many   advantages   are  claimed  for  this  machine. 


Other  American  manufacturers  have  patented  machines  which  per- 
fectly fashion  ladies'  seamless  stockings,  which  automatically  knit 
an  integral  welt  for  ladies'  seamless  hosiery  on  the  same  machine, 
and  one  which  knits  a  complete  seamless  stocking  for  men  or  women 
without  the  necessity  of  transferring  the  ribbed  portion. 

The  first  looper  in  the  United  States  was  imported  from  England 
by  Campbell  &  Clute,  of  Cohoes,  N.  Y.,  shortly  after  1868.  The 
Germans  were  the  first  to  produce  the  two-thread  looping  machine, 
the  first  American  machine  of  this  type  appearing  on  the  market  in 
1911.  The  present  American  looper  is  simple  in  construction,  is 
about  18  inches  in  diameter,  and  has  any  number  of  needles  to  the 
inch,  though  usually  from  14  to  22. 

A  new  boarding  machine  has  appeared  which  practically  does  away 
with  the  need  of  skilled  boarders.  It  strips  the  hose  much  better 
than  the  boarder  can  and  automatically  assorts  the  hose  into  dozens 
and  half  dozens  as  desired. 

LOSSES  FROM  ANTIQUATED  MACHINERY. 

As  hosiery  machinery,  especially  that  for  making  seamless  hosiery, 
has  been  very  greatly  improved  by  numerous  inventions  in  recent 
years,  the  manufacturer  who  uses  old  machines  can  not  compete 
with  the  manufacturer  using  up-to-date  machinery. 

One  who  uses  a  two-yarn  change  machine  can  use  only  two  different 
yarns  in  the  production  of  a  stocking,  but  one  who  uses  a  five  or 
six  yam  change  machine  can  use  five  or  six  different  yarns  in  knitting 
a  stocking.  The  latter  can  put  in  cheap  heavy  yarn  where  the  wear 
is  greatest,  can  use  fine  yarns  where  the  appearance  of  the  stocking 
requires  it,  and  in  various  ways  can  manipulate  five  or  six  different 
yarns  so  as  to  produce  the  best  looking  and  at  the  same  time 
strongest  stocking.  The  manufacturer  who  uses  two-change  yarn 
machines  to  make  a  stocking  as  fine  as  this  in  appearance  must  use 
practically  all  fine  yarns,  and  consequently  he  can  not  afford  to  sell 
it  at  the  same  price,  as  his  yarn  cost  is  much  higher. 

The  first  full-fashioning  machines  used  in  the  United  States  were 
imported.  The  operation  of  them  requires  much  skiU,  and  most  of 
the  operators  learned  their  trade  in  Europe.  Full-fashioning 
machines  made  in  the  United  States  have  a  productive  capacity 
equal  to  if  not  greater  than  the  foreign-made  machines;  they  are 
simpler  in  construction  and  do  not  require  so  much  skill  in  their 
operation.  Nevertheless,  foreign-made  machines  are  mostly  used 
in  the  United  States.  Manufacturers  whose  factories  are  already 
equipped  with  foreign-made  machines  prefer  not  to  introduce 
machines  of  a  different  type,  being  governed  largely  by  the  prejudices 
of  the  operators  in  favor  of  the  machines  to  which  they  are  accustomed. 

A  very  important  invention  that  many  manufacturers  of  full- 
fashioned  hosiery  have  not  adopted  is  the  boardm^  machine,  which 
does  the  work  better  and  more  cheaply  than  it  can  be  done  by  hand. 

The  use  of  antiquated  machinery  and  the  failure  to  keep  machin- 
ery in  proper  condition  are  causes  of  waste  of  material  and  of  the 
production  of  seconds,  which  lead  to  manufacturing  losses. 

This  largelv  accounts  for  the  too  keen  competition  of  which  much 
is  heard.  The  manufacturer  who  uses  the  old  type  of  machine, 
unable  to  sell  his  coarse,  heavy  hosiery  in  competition  with  hosiery 
made  on  improved  machines,  has  to  cut  his  price,  and  this  forces 
other  manufacturers  to  cut  their  prices. 


i-i 


* 


44 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY. 


45 


The  average  of  the  inventories  of  machinery  and  fixtures  of  the  73 
estabhshments  reporting  in  this  inA-estigation  was  $75,608.  Only 
30  reported  that  they  had  purchased  new  machinery  and  fLvtures 
during  their  last  business  year  or  period.  Such  purchases  averaged 
$3,173,  or  4.2  per  cent  of  the  average  inventory  of  machinery  and 
fixtures. 

MACHINE  GAUGES  AND  YABN  COUNTS. 

The  fineness  of  hosiery  depends  on  the  number  of  needles  to  the 
machine  or  the  needle  spacing.  Obviously  a  machine  with  20  needles 
to  the  inch  will  knit  a  finer  stocking  than  a  machhie  with  14  needles 
to  the  inch. 

In  describing  circular  machines,  which  are  used  for  knitting  seam- 
less hosierv,  the  figures  ''3i-220,"  for  instance,  mean  that  th(i  dia- 
meter of  the  needle  cyhnder  is  3f  niches  and  that  there  are  220  cuts 
or  grooves  in  the  cylinder,  in  which  there  are  220  ne(»dles. 

In  describing  full-fashioning  machines,  the  expression  *'24  nc^edles 
to  the  inch,"  for  instance,  is  to  be  taken  Hterally.  The  product  is' 
knit  flat,  24  threads  to  the  inch,  and  later  seamed  to  form  the  hose. 

The  cotton  yarns  commonly  used  in  knitting  hosiery  are  southern 
carded  peeler,  eastern  carded  peeler,  eastern  combed  peeler,  combed 
Egyptian,  sea  island,  and  combed  sea  island.  Peeler  is  a  term  com- 
monly used  for  describing  cotton  grown  in  the  United  States.  South- 
em  carded  peeler  is  yarn  spun  in  southern  mills,  an<l  eastern  carded 
peeler  is  spun  in  New  England.  Combed  cotton  is  that  from  which 
the  short  fibers  have  been  removed  after  they  have  been  carded. 
Egyptian  cotton  has  a  longer  staple  than  southern  cotton  and  is 
straw  colored.  Sea-island  cotton  is  white  and  is  grown  on  the  South 
Atlantic  coast.  It  has  a  longer  stai)le  than  even  Egyptian  cotton 
and  is  used  for  spinning  the  finest  yams. 

Wool  is  used  for  hosiery  to  a  comparatively;  small  extent,  and  prin- 
cipally for  lumbermen's  and  sportsmen's  hosiery.  Spun  silk  is  used 
very  extensively,  reeled  silk  to  a  limited  extent,  and  for  making 
medium-priced  hosiery  artificial  silk  has  recently  become  very  po])ular. 

The  fineness  of  the  varn  is  indicated  by  its  ^'number"  or  ''counts." 
According  to  the  method  of  designating  counts  in  the  United  States, 
a  No.  1  yarn  would  be  that  in  which  840  yards  of  cotton  yarn  were 
spun  into  a  hank  weighing  1  pound;  No.  2  would  be  a  yarn  in  which 
1,680  yards  were  spun  into  a  1-pound  hank;  No.  3,  a  yam  in  which 
2,520  yards  were  spun  into  a  1-pound  hank,  etc.  In  spinning  worsted 
yarns  560  yards  to  the  1-pound  hank  is  the  base  for  No.  1. 

MANUFACTURING  PROCESSES. 

In  manufacturing  hosiery  the  yarn  is  wound  or  rtiwound  on  bob- 
bins to  give  a  tension  as  nearly  uniform  as  possible. 

In  knitting  men's  half  hose  or  children's  stockings,  either  seamless 
or  fuU  fashioned,  the  ribbed  portion  is  knit  on  a  ribbing  machine 
and  then  transferred  to  the  ordinary  knitting  machine,  which  com- 
pletes the  knitting  process. 

The  top  of  ladies'  seamless  hosiery  is  welted.  In  full-fashioned 
hosiery  the  knitting  machine  makes  what  is  called  an  integral  welt. 
In  seamless  hosiery  the  top  of  the  stocking  is  turned  back  and 
seamed. 

Seamless  hosiery  is  closed  at  the  toe  by  a  looping  machine.  Full- 
fashioned  hosiery  is  closed  at  both  heel  and  toe  by  a  looping  machine 
and  seamed  in  other  places  by  a  sewing  machine. 


After  the  knitting  and  looping  processes  hosiery  is  bleached  or 
dyed,  then  each  hose  while  damp  is  stretched  over  a  leg-shaped 
board  and  put  in  a  hot  box  to  dry.  After  being  taken  off  the  shap- 
ing board  the  hose  is  laid  between  press  boards  and  pressed  in  a 
hydraulic  press.  Other  operations  are  pairing,  stamping,  folding, 
and  boxing. 

EMPLOYEES. 

In  most  estabhshments  the  busy  season  includes  the  months  of 
March  and  April;  the  dullest  months  are  July,  August,  and  Septem- 
ber. The  total  number  of  employees  in  the  73  establishments  re- 
porting was  18,494  during  their  busy  season,  of  whom  1,450,  or  7.85 
per  cent,  were  under  16  years  of  age.  The  average  number  of  employ- 
ees 16  years  of  age  and  over  during  the  busy  season  was:  Males,  69.7; 
females,  183.7;  total,  253.4.  The  average  in  the  dull  season  was: 
Males,  67.5;  females,  176.8;  total,  244.3,  a  falling  off  of  only  9.1,  or 
3.59  per  cent. 

The  estabhshments  which  made  fuU-fashioned  hosiery  had  the 
largest  average  number  of  employees,  and  the  establishments  that  spin 
some  or  all  oi  their  yarn  had  the  next  largest  number  of  employees. 

The  children  imder  16  years  of  age  were  most  largely  employed 
by  the  full-fashioned  mills  and  were  least  employed  by  mills  making 
wool  and  cotton  hosiery,  which  buy  their  yarn. 

WAGES  AND  HOURS  OF  LABOR. 

Females  constitute  a  large  proportion  of  the  employees  in  hosiery 
mills.  Most  of  the  labor  in  such  mills  is  paid  for  on  the  piece-price 
basis,  which  is  preferred  by  both  employer  and  employee. 

Table  18  is  a  summary  of  the  average  wages  per  hour  paid  in  39 
hosiery  miUs  iii  various  sections  of  the  United  States,  the  average 
full-time  working  hours  per  week,  and  the  average  full-time  weekfy 
earnings,  as  shown  by  tables  in  a  bulletin  pubhshed  by  the  Bureau 
of  Labor  Statistics,  Department  of  Labor,  and  republished  in  this 
report.  These  data  were  obtained  during  an  investigation  by  the 
Bureau  of  Labor  Statistics  in  1914. 

Table  18.— Average  Rates  of  Wages  per  Hour,  Full-Time  Working  Hours 

PER  Week,  and  Full-Time  Weekly  Earnings. 


Occupations. 


MALE  EMPLOYEES. 

Knitters,  full-fashioned  hosiery 

Knitters,  footers  or  toppers 

Knitters,  rib  hosiery 

Knitters,  "lady  hose" 

Boarders 

Pressers [ 

Other  employees 

FEMALE  EMPLOYEES 

w  inders 

Knitters,  footers  or  toppers 

Knitters,  rib  hosiery 

Knitters,  "lady  hose" 

Toppers,  full-fashioned  hosiery 

Loopers [ 

Seamers,  full-fashioned  hosierv 

Welters *. 

Menders,  fine  hosiery 

Menders,  rough  hosiery 

Press  hands 

Inspectors  and  folders 

Other  employees 


Average 
rate  of 

wages  per 
hour. 


10.407 
.151 
.195 
.198 
.228 
.217 
.181 

.145 
.1.50 
.167 
.179 
.152 
.154 
.173 
.160 
.153 
.148 
.126 
.156 
.123 


Average 

full-time 

hours  i)er 

week. 


54.8 
56.3 
55.7 
55.4 
55.3 
55.9 
55.5 

54.3 
54.9 
54.9 
54.2 
54.4 
54.8 
54.4 
55.3 
54.8 
55.1 
54.0 
55.6 
54.8 


Averse 

fuU-time 

weekly. 

earnings. 


$22.31 
8.45 
10.79 
10.98 
12.53 
12.07 
10.04 

7.89 
8.24 
9.12 
9.67 
8.29 
8.42 
9.41 
8.78 
8.35 
8.11 
6.80 
8.67 
6.44 


If 


46 


THE    HOSIEKY    INDUSTRY. 


SUMMARY. 


47 


IMPORTS  OF  HOSIERY. 

The  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  mto  the  United  States  decreased 
from  $6,390,921  in  the  fiscal  year  1909  to  $2,553,914  in  the  fiscal  year 
1913.  These  imports  in  the  fiscal  year  1914  amounted  to  $2,949,678, 
which  was  less  than  those  in  any  recent  fiscal  year,  except  1912  and 
1913.  They  exceeded  the  imports  of  the  fiscal  year  1913  by  $395,764, 
or  15.50  per  cent.  This  increase  may  be  accomated  ft»r  in  part  ])y  the 
lower  duties  that  prevailed  for  aboiit  nine  months,  from  October  4, 

1913,  to  June  30,  1914,  and  in  part  by  the  fact  that  in  the  fiscal  year 
ending  June  30,  1913,  foreign  goods  were  held  back  from  entry  into 
the  United  States  to  some  extent  in  anticipation  of  lower  rates  of 
duty. 

The  value  of  cotton  hosiery  remaining  in  warehouses  on  September 
30,  1912,  was  $489,849;  and  on  September  30,  1913,  it  was  $842,237. 

Under  the  tariff  act  of  1913,  as  well  as  under  previous  acts,  most  of 
the  importations  are  of  the  cheaper  s^rades  of  hosiery.  A  larger  part 
of  the  importations  consist  of  full-fashioned  socks'  for  children  or 
infants,  which  are  not  manufactured  at  all  in  the  L'nited  States. 

As  shown  by  the  Census  of  Manufac^tures,  the  production  of  cotton 
hosiery  in  the  United  States  amounted  in  the  calendar  year  1909  to 
$55,909,987.  The  importations  of  su«-h  hosiery  during  the  fiscal  year 
1909  amounted  to  $6,390,921,  were  11.43  per  cent  of  the  production 
in  the  calendar  year  1909,  but  they  have  decreased  to  less  than  half 
what  they  were  in  that  year.     The  importations  in  the  fiscal  year 

1914,  amounting  to  $2,949,678,  were  only  5.28  per  cent  of  the  domestic 
production  in  1909.  Though  no  statistics  regarding  the  production 
m  later  years  are  available,  it  is  well  known  that  many  old  hosiery  mills 
have  increased  their  output  and  many  new  hosiery  mills  liave  begun 
operations  in  the  last  five  years.  Therefore  the  percentage  of  impor- 
tations of  hosiery  compared  with  the  production  in  the  United  States 
is  now  smaller  than  5.28. 

The  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  for  consumption  during  the  fiscal 
year  1914  amounted  to  $2,949,678,  and  those  of  other  cotton  knit 
goods,  except  gloves,  to  $341,973,  the  total  being  $3,291,651.  The 
amount  of  exports  is  not  eiven  separately  for  hosiery  and  other  knit 
goods,  but  the  exports  of  all  cotton  kiut  goods  amomited  to  $2,546,822 
during  the  fiscal  year  1914. 

The  reports  of  the  Bureau  of  the  Census  do  not  show  the  production 
of  fuU-fashioned  hosiery  separately  from  the  production  of  seamless 
hosiery.  It  is  known,  however,  that  in  the  United  States  the  produc- 
tion of  seamless  hosiery  is  very  much  greater  than  the  production  of 
full-fashioned  hosiery.  A  trade  directory  shows  tliat  m  1914  there 
were  in  the  United  States  93  mills  knitting  full-fashioned  hosiery  and 
647  mills  knitting  seamless  hosiery. 

The  cost  of  labor  in  the  manufacture  of  seamless  hosiery  is  com- 
paratively small,  as  the  circular  machines  on  which  such  hosiery  is 
knit  are  largely  automatic  and  are  operated  by  girls,  who  each  attend 
4  to  16  machines.  For  this  reason  the  labor  cost  is  low  and  very 
little  seamless  hosiery  has  been  imported  into  the  United  States  under 
any  tariff,  including  the  act  of  1913. 

In  the  nianuf acture  of  full-fashioned  hosiery  the  labor  cost  is  higher 
in  proportion  to  the  total  cost  than  m  the  manufacture  of  seamless 
hosiery.  As  labor  is  cheaper  in  Europe  than  in  America,  foreign 
manufacturers  of  fuU-fashioned  cotton  hosiery  are  able  to  compete 


with  the  manufacturers  in  the  United  States.  Most  of  the  impor- 
tations of  hosiery  are  of  full-fashioned  cotton  hosiery  which  sells  at 
popular  prices — 25  and  50  cents  a  pair  at  retail— and  of  full-fashioned 
children's  or  infants'  hose,  which  variety  is  little  made  in  the  United 
States.  The  increase  in  the  importations  under  the  act  of  1913  has 
been  almost  entirely  in  this  class  of  goods. 

No  tariff  act  has  ever  made  a  distinction  between  the  rate  of  duty 
on  full-fashioned  hosiery  and  seamless  hosier}^. 

Under  the  Payne-Aldrich  Tariff  Act  the  average  ad  valorem  equiv- 
alent rate  of  duty  on  the  cotton  hosiery  imported  from  October  1, 
1912,  to  October  3,  1913,  was  69.35  per  cent.  Under  this  act  the 
average  ad  valorem  equivalent  rate  was  higher  on  cotton  hosiery  of 
low  price  than  on  the  higher  priced  goods;  on  hosiery  valued  at  $1  or 
less  per  dozen  pairs  it  was  93.56  per  cent.  The  bulk  of  the  imports 
was  on  the  cheaper  grades. 

Under  the  Underwood-Simmons  Act  the  average  ad  valorem  rate 
of  duty  on  the  cotton  hosiery  imported  from  October  4,  1913,  to 
September  30,  1914,  was  44.6  per  cent.  Under  this  act  the  rates  of 
duty  are  less  on  the  low-priced  grades  than  on  the  higher  priced 
grades. 

During  the  calendar  year  1914  the  imports  for  consumption  of 
cotton  hosiery  steadily  decreased  by  quarters.  They  amounted  to 
$1,187,700  during  the  quarter  ending  with  March,  $797,799  during 
the  quarter  ending  with  June,  $511,385  during  the  quarter  ending 
with  September,  and  $279,505  during  the  quarter  ending  with 
December.  During  the  first  quarter  of  the  calendar  year  1915  the 
imports  were  valued  at  $596,316. 

Nearly  all  of  the  imports  of  hosiery  have  been  from  Germany.  Of 
the  general  imports  of  cotton  hosiery,  97.31  per  cent  came  from 
Germany  in  the  fiscal  year  1913  and  97.02  per  cent  in  the  fiscal  year 
1914.  Most  of  the  remainder  was  imported  from  France  and  Eng- 
land. 

The  importations  of  woolen  hosiery  are  not  separately  classified, 
but  the  unportations  of  knit  woolen  wearing  apparel,  including 
hosiery  but  excluding  shawls,  decreased  from  $487,285  in  the  fisc^ 
year  1913  to  $415,775  in  the  fiscal  year  1914,  despite  the  lower 
duties  during  the  last  nine  months  of  the  latter  year. 

The  importations  of  silk  hosiery  are  not  separately  classified,  but 
the  importations  of  knit  silk  wearing  apparel,  including  hosiery, 
decreased  from  $250,794  in  the  fiscal  year  1913  to  $181,135  in  1914, 
despite  lower  duties  during  the  last  nine  months.  In  recent  years 
the  fashion  for  silk  hosiery  has  enormously  increased  the  production 
of  such  goods  in  the  United  States.  As  shown  by  the  Census  of 
Manufactures,  the  value  of  the  production  of  silk  hosiery  increased 
eighteenfold  during  the  five  years  from  1904  to  1909. 

It  is  known  that  the  production  of  silk  hosiery  has  greatly  increased 
since  1909.  Also  there  has  been  a  very  large  increase  m  the  produc- 
tion of  hosiery  made  of  artificial  silk,  because  of  the  tremendously 
increased  demand  for  fighter  and  '^ shiny"  hosiery.  Manufactui*ers 
who  have  changed  their  product  to  silk  or  artificial  silk  have  done  a 
profitable  business,  while  manufacturers  of  cotton  hosiery  have  found 
it  more  difficult  to  put  their  product  on  the  market  with  the  same 
margin  of  profit  as  formerly. 

Under  tne  tariff  act  of  1913  the  rates  of  duty  are  sufficient  to 
exclude  nearly  all  foreign-made  silk  hosiery. 


48 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


EXPORTS  OF  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS. 

American  manufacturers  of  hosiery  and  other  knit  goods,  relying 
on  the  home  market  for  trade,  havt^'made  but  Httle  effort  to  estab- 
lish a  market  for  their  product  in  foreign  countries.  The  exports  of 
such  goods  are  still  very  small  as  compared  with  the  production  in 
the  United  States,  but  nevertheless  they  have  shown  a  substantial 
growth  in  recent  years. 

The  statistics  of  exports  do  not  classify  the  exports  of  hosiery 
separately  from  those  of  other  knit  goods,  and  there  are  no  statistics 
showing  the  exports  of  woolen  and  silk  hosiery,  but  the  exports  of 
cotton  hosiery  and  other  knit  goods  increased  from  $1,016,325  in  the 
fiscal  year  1909  to  $2,54^,822  m  the  fiscal  year  1914,  or  over  150  per 
cent.  During  these  five  years  the  imports  of  sucli  goods  decreased 
by  more  than  half. 

Of  such  goods  exported  during  the  fiscal  year  1914,  amountmg  to 
$2,546,822,  the  exports  to  England  amounted  to  $911,886,  or  over 
35  per  cent;  to  Canada,  $440,558;  to  Cuba,  $200,476;  to  Australia 
and  Tasmania,  $142,627.  Canada's  purchases  have  more  than 
quadrupled  in  the  past  five  years.  They  might  be  larger  if  it  were 
not  for  the  preferential  tariff  given  to  Great  Britain. 

IMPORTS  AND  EXPORTS  OF  HOSIERY  MACHINERY. 

All  the  machinery  for  knitting  seamless  hosiery  usc<l  in  this  country 
being  pecuharly  of  American  invention  and  development,  is  of  domes- 
tic manufacture. 

Most  loopers  are  imported  from  Germany,  and  while  thero.  is  a 
prejudice  in  favor  of  the  German  looper  on  the  part  of  those  manu- 
facturers whose  factories  are  equii)ped  with  them,  the  Amcirican 
loopers,  wherever  they  have  been  introduced,  have  given  satisfaction. 

Most  of  the  full-fashioning  machines  that  are  used  in  the  United 
States  are  imported. 

The  only  hosiery  machinery  that  is  exported  from  the  United  States 
are  the  seamless  macliines  and  a  very  few  loopers.  The  American 
manufacturers  of  knitting  machinery  have  made  very  httle  effort  to 
estabhsh  a  foreign  trade,  and  what  machinery  they  have  sold  abroad 
has  been  sold  not  to  manufacturers  directly  but  to  jobbers.  Never- 
theless, export  business  in  knitting  machinery  is  incrc^asing.  Rc^ports 
from  the  three  largest  manufacturers  of  seamless  knitting  machmery 
in  the  United  States  show  that  during  the  year  1913  they  sold  5,979 
machines  in  the  United  States  and  exported  1,618. 


CHAPTER  I. 
CAPITAL,  PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 

Data  regarding  the  cost  of  production  of  hosiery  were  obtained 
from  73  establishments.  Reports  were  secured  from  these  establish- 
ments for  their  last  business  periods,  usually  one  year.  The  period 
was  for  6  months  in  1  case,  11  months  in  3  cases,  13  months  in  1  case, 
14  months  in  2  cases,  and  24  months  in  1  case.  Except  in  20  cases 
the  business  year  ended  December  31,  1913. 

In  tabulatmg  the  data  the  estabhshments  were  divided  into  seven 
groups  according  to  materials  used,  according  to  product,  and  to 
some  extent  according  to  locations.  These  seven  groups  are  as 
follows: 

Group  I  includes  9  mills  knitting  full-fashioned  hose,  or  both  full- 
fasluoned  and  seamless  hose,  made  of  cotton,  silk,  wool,  and  cotton 
and  sdk  mixed.  Of  these  mills,  4  made  full-fashioned  hose  exclu- 
sively and  5  made  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hose.  Of  the  9 
mills,  5  were  in  Pennsylvania  and  1  each  in  Massachusetts,  Rhode 
Island,  New  York,  and  Indiana. 

Group  II  includes  16  northern  mills  knitting  seamless  cotton 
hosiery  (15  m  Pennsylvania  and  1  in  New  York). 

Group  III  includes  16  southern  imUs  knitting  seamless  cotton 
hosiery  (6  m  Georgia,  4  in  North  Carolina,  3  in  Maryland,  and  1  each 
in  South  Carolina,  Tennessee,  and  Missouri). 

Group  IV  includes  1 1  mills  knitting  seamless  hosiery  of  silk  or  of 
cotton  and  silk  mixtures  (all  in  Pennsylvania) . 

Group  V  includes  9  mills  knitting  seamless  hosiery  of  silk  or  of 
cotton  and  silk  mixtures  (4  in  Wisconsin,  3  in  Ohio,  and  2  in  Illinois). 

Group  VI  includes  4  mills  knitting  seamless  hosiery  of  wool,  worsted, 
menno,  and  cotton  mixtures  (2  in  Illinois  and  1  each  in  Pennsvlvania 
and  Maryland).  ^ 

Group  VII  includes  8  mills  that  spin  all  or  some  of  their  yams  and 
knit  seamless  hosiery  of  wool,  wool  and  silk  mixed,  wool  and  cotton 
mixed,  and  cotton,  silk,  and  wool  mixed  (4  in  New  Hampshire,  and 
1  each  m  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin). 

From  each  estabhshment  were  secured  the  balance  sheets  for  the 
begmnmg  and  end  of  its  last  business  period.  Of  the  73  estabhsh- 
ments, only  1 1  reported  that  they  had  borrowed  capital,  and  8  esti- 
mated then-  good  will  as  an  asset.  The  amounts  of  the  capital  owned 
and  surplus  and  of  capital  borrowed  at  the  beginning  of  the  period 
are  shown  by  groups  in  Table  19,  being  entered  in  this  and  other  tables 
as  capital  employed  m  busmess,  good  will  not  being  included 


N 


9963°— 15- 


49 


^ 


50  THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 

Table  19. — Capital  Employed  in  Business,  by  groups  op  Establishments,  at  the 

Beginning  op  Their  Last  Business  Ye  a  us. 


CAPITAL,  PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 


51 


Mills  making- 


Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless 
hosiery  (East  and  West) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania  and  New 
York) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (Pennsylvania). . . 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (West)'. 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed  (East, 
West,  and  South) 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yams  (East  and  West) . 

Total 


Groups. 


1 

9 

11 

lA 

HI 

10 

IV 

11 

V 

9 

VI 

4 

VII 

tn 

Estal<li«hment8  reporting  capital 
employed  in  Dusiness. 


Number. 


73 


Amount. 


$5,180,858 

1,554,777 
2,423,413 
1,414,023 
1,191,542 

834,382 
2,949,890 


15,648,885 


Average. 


$575,651 

97,155 
151,463 
128, 548 
132,394 

208,596 
368,736 


212,998 


As  appears  in  the  foregoing  tabl(%  the  average  amount  of  capital 
employed  in  business  of  the  73  establishments  was  $212,998  per 
establishment.  The  average  of  the  64  establishments  making  seam- 
less hosiery  (Groups  II  to  Vll,  inclusive)  was  $162,000,  against  the 
average  oi  all  establishments  making  full-fashioned  hosiery  (Group 
I),  $575,651.  The  average  of  all  establishments  making  seamless 
hosiery,  except  those  buying  all  or  part  of  their  yarn  (Groups  II 
to  VI,  inclusive),  was  $132,467. 

In  considering  the  following  table  it  should  be  understood  that  the 
salaries  of  active  officers  and  the  drawing  accounts  of  partners  were 
included  in  the  cost  of  production  b(^fore  profits  or  losses  were  figured. 
Likewise,  in  the  case  oi  an  individual  owner  of  an  establishment,  the 
costs  included  the  estimated  amount  he  would  have  to  pay  an  em- 
ployee for  service  such  as  he  himself  performed. 

It  is  important  also  to  understand  that  before  profits  or  loss<^s  were 
figured  all  expenses  for  seUing  were  included  in  the  cost  of  production. 

Furthermore,  depreciation  was  added  as  an  expense  before  profits 
and  losses  were  computed.  It  was  c  alculated  on  the  inven  toriecl  value 
of  the  machinery  and  fixtures  at  thi^  uniform  rate  of  5  per  cent  for  all 
establishments  in  Group  I  and  10  per  cent  for  all  the  establishments 
in  the  other  six  groups.  Depreciation  was  also  figured  on  the  balance 
sheet  valuation  of  the  real  estate  (including  ground  as  well  as  buildings) 
at  the  uniform  rate  of  1 J  per  cent.  Many  establishments  kept  on  their 
books  no  depreciation  account  and  did  not  take  it  into  consideration  in 
figuring  profits  or  losses.  Of  the  73  establishm(^nts  that  reported, 
only  20  had  reserves  for  depreciation.  Some  establishments  which 
showed  on  their  books  profits  eam(Mi  during  their  last  business  years 
showed  losses  when  depreciation  was  added  to  other  expenses. 

MANUFACTUKING  AND  FINAL  PEOFTT. 

The  percentages  of  manufacturing  profit  and  final  profit  on  net 
sales  are  shown  by  Tables  33  and  37,  in  the  chapter  on  cost  and  profit, 
by  establishments  and  groups.  Table  20  which  follows,  shows  by 
groups  and  combinations  of  groups  the  capital  employed  in  the  busi- 
ness, and  the  net  sales,  together  with  the  manufacturing  profit  and 
final  profit. 


Table  20. — Capital  Employed  in  Business,  Net  Sales,  and  Manufacturing  and 

Final  Profit,  by  Groups  of  Establishments. 


Classification. 

Groups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital  em- 
ployed in 
business. 

Net 
sales. 

Manufac- 
turing 
profit. 

Fmal 
profit. 

All  mills  reiwrting  data 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosiery 

ItoVII 

II  to  VII 

IltoVI 

I 

73 

64 
56 

9 

16 

16 

11 

9 

4 

8 

$15,548,885 

10,368,027 
7,418,137 

5,180,858 

1,554,777 

2,423,413 
1,414,023 
1,191,542 

834,382 

2,949,890 

$27,010,893 

18,011,709 
13,814,768 

8,999,184 

2,602,953 

4,559,099 
2,528,796 
2,665,282 
1,458,636 

4,196,942 

$1, 797, 775 

994,925 
697,994 

802,850 
45,849 

346,495 
96,845 

174,972 
33,833 

296,931 

$1,527,657 

Seamless  hosiery  and  buy- 
ing all  yarns. 
Full-fashioned  or  both  full- 

532,281 
721,336 

o8,000 

299,221 
83,590 

134,607 
22,8.53 

274  051 

fashioned  and  seamless 

hosiery  (East  and  West). 

Seamless  cotton   hosiery 

II..... 

( Pennsylvania  and  New 
York). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery 

Ill 

(South). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton 

IV 

and  silk  (Pennsylvania). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton 

V 

and  silk  (West). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  wool 

VI 

and  cotton  mixed  (East, 
West,  and  South). 
Seamless  hosiery  and  spin- 

VII  

ning  yarns  (East  and 
West). 

a  Loss. 


The  manufacturing  profit  shown  by  groups  in  Table  20  was  found 
by  adding  the  cost  of  goods  produced,  the  selling  expense,  and  the 
cost  of  finished  goods  purchased,  and  from  this  sum  deducting  an}^ 
mcrease  in  the  stock  of  goods  during  the  year,  or  adding  to  this  sum 
any  decrease  in  the  stock  of  goods,  f  his  deduction  or  addition  gave 
the  cost  to  the  manufacturer  of  the  goods  sold,  which  figure  subtracted 
from  the  net  sales  gave  the  manufacturing  profit. 

What  is  called  the  final  profit  was  found  by  adding  to  the  manu- 
facturing profit  the  miscellaneous  income  from  real  estate,  bank 
balances  or  investments  outside  the  manufacturing  business,  and 
deducting  the  amount  paid  for  interest  on  borrowed  money.  No 
item  of  expense  for  investments  outside  the  manufacturing  business, 
however,  was  reported. 

PERCENTAGES  OF  PROFIT  ON  CAPITAL  AND  NET  SALES. 

The  amounts  shown  in  Table  20  are  given  in  the  form  of  percentages 
in  Table  21. 


52 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


CAPITAL,   PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 


53 


Table  21. — Percentages  op  Manufactuuing  Profit,  and  Final  Profit  on 
Capital  Employed  in  Business  and  on  Net  Sales,  by  Groups  of  Establish- 
ments. 


Groups. 

Kstab- 

lish- 

ttients. 

Per  cent  of  nmnu- 
factiu-ing  piolit. 

Per  cent  of  final 
proJlt. 

Classification. 

Capital 
employed 

in 
business. 

N»^t 
sales. 

(Capital 
employed 

in 
business. 

Net 
sales. 

All  mills  reporting  data 

I  to  VII 

IltoVTI 

IltoVI 

I 

73 

64 
56 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 

4 

8 

11.56 

9.60 
9.41 

15.50 

2.95 

14.30 
6.85 

14.68 

4.05 

10.07 

«.66 

5.  .52 
5.05 

S.92 

1.76 

7.60 
3.83 

6.56 

2.32 

7.08 

9.82 

7.78 
7.18 

13.92 

0.51 

12.35 
5.91 

11.30 

2.74 

9.29 

5  66 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosiery 

4  48 

Seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all 

yarns. 
Full-fashioned    or    both    full- 

3.85 
8.02 

fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery 
(East  and  West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Perm- 

II 

0.31 

sylvania  and  New  York). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South). 

Ill 

6.56 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 

IV 

3.31 

silk  (Pennsylvania). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 

V 

5.05 

silk  (West). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cot- 

VI  

1.5? 

ton  mixed  (East,  West,  and 
South). 
Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning 
yarns  (East  and  West). 

VII 

6.53 

a  Loss. 

By  Table  21  it  will  be  seen  that  the  profit  on  capital  employed  in 
business  was  much  larger  than  the  profit  on  net  sales;  in  Group  V  it 
was  more  than  twice  as  large.  The  percentages  of  manufacturing 
profit  of  all  of  the  73  establishments  reporting,  Groups  I  to  VII,  were: 
On  capital  employed  in  business,  11.56;  on  net  salens,  6.66. 

HIGHEB  PROFITS  ON  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIEBY. 

As  practically  all  hosiery  imported  into  the  Uidted  States  is  full 
fashioned,  it  is  remarkable  that,  as  sliown  by  TabL?  21,  the  establish- 
ments which  produced  full-fashion c^d  hosiery  (Group  1)  earned  a 
larger  percentage  of  profit  than  was  earned,  by  the  mills  making 
seamless  hosiery  (Groups  II  to  VII).  This  is  more  plainly  shown  in 
Table  22. 

Table  22.^ — Percentage  of  Manitfacturing  Profit  op  Establishments  Making 

Full-Fashion  ED  and  Seamless  Hosiery 


Establish- 
ments. 

I'ercentage  of  manufactur- 
ing profits  on— 

Establishments  naaking— 

Capital 

employed  in 

business. 

Ntst  sales. 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  liosiery 

( Group  I ) 

Seamless  hosiery  ( Groups  II  to  VII) , 

9 
64 
56 

15.50 
9.60 
9.41 

8.92 
6.52 

Seamless  hosiery— mills  buying  all  yarns  (Groups  II  to  VI) . . . 

5.05 

Under  the  tariff  act  of  1913,  as  well  as  in  all  previous  acts,  the  (hity 
on  hosiery  was  levied  at  the  same  rate  for  full-fashioned  as  for  s'^am- 
less  hosiery.  The  labor  cost  on  hosiery,  however,  whether  made  in 
the  United  States  or  abroad,  is  much  higher  on  the  full-fashioned 
than  on  the  seamless  kind.  Nevertheless,  it  appears  that  the  mills 
in  which  full-fashioned  hosiery  is  manufactured  earned  an  average 
percentage  of  profit  about  60  per  cent  larger  than  the  miUs  in  which 
seamless  hosiery  is  manufactured. 

This  is  remarkable,  because  comparatively  little  seamless  hosiery 
is  manufactured  outside  of  America  and  practically  none  is  imported 
into  the  United  States.  Practically  all  of  the  hosiery  imported  is 
fuU-fashioned,  and  much  of  it  is  of  the  cheaper  grades  of  full- 
fashioned  cotton  hosiery,  which  are  sold  in  competition  with  the 
domestic  production  of  seamless  hosiery.  A  considerable  part  of 
the  importations,  however,  are  of  full-fashioned  socks  for  children 
and  infants,  which  are  but  little  made  in  the  United  States. 

The  manufacture  of  seamless  hosiery  in  the  United  States  has 
increased  very  rapidly,  much  more  rapidly  than  has  the  manufacture 
of  full-fashioned  nosiery.  This  was  due  probably  to  the  fact  that 
machinery  for  seamless  hosiery  is  much  less  expensive  than  full- 
fashioning  machinery  and  to  the  fact  that  much  less  skiU  is  required 
to  operate  the  former  than  the  latter.  According  to  Davison's 
Hosiery  and  Knit  Goods  Trade  Directory,  there  were  in  1914  in  the 
United  States  647  miUs  making  seamless  hosiery  and  93  making  fuU- 
fashioned  hosiery.  The  American  manufacturer  of  seamless  hosiery 
has  had  to  meet  competition  on  the  cheaper  grades  of  foreign-made 
fuU-fashioned  hosiery  and  also  increasing  domestic  competition, 
due  to  the  large  increase  in  the  production  of  old  mills  in  the  United 
States  making  seamless  hosiery  and  to  the  rapid  estabhshment  of 
new  miUs  that  manufacture  such  a  product. 

The  higher  percentages  of  profit  made  by  the  9  miUs  making  fuU- 
f ashionea  and  seamless  hosiery  (Group  I)  as  compared  with  the  per- 
centages of  profit  made  by  the  64  mills  making  seamless  hosiery 
(Groups  II-VII)  or  with  the  percentages  of  profit  made  by  the  56 
mills  making  seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all  yarns  (Group  II-VI), 
as  shown  by  Table  22,  indicate  that  the  establishments  maidng  full- 
fashioned  hosiery  are  more  efficiently  managed  than  the  estaohsh- 
ments  that  make  seamless  hosiery.  This  matter  is  further  discussed 
in  the  comment  which  follows  Table  30,  at  the  end  of  this  chapter. 

VARYING  PROFITS  ACCORDING  TO  LOCALITY. 

Referring  to  Table  21,  it  wiU  be  seen  that  the  difference  between  the 
average  percentage  of  profit  of  the  northern  mills  in  Group  II  making 
seamless  cotton  hosiery  is  noticeably  smaller  than  that  of  the  southern 
mills  in  Group  III  making  the  same  kind  of  ])roduct.  The  average 
per  cent  of  manufacturing  profit  on  net  sales  of  miUs  in  Group  II,  all 
out  one  located  in  Pennsylvania,  was  1.76,  while  with  mills  in  Group 
III,  all  in  the  South,  it  was  7.6.  After  a  charge  is  made  for  interest 
and  other  expenses  for  investments  outside  the  manufacturing  busi- 
ness, Group  11  shows  an  average  final  loss  of  0.31  per  cent  on  net  sales 
and  Group  III  shows  an  average  final  profit  of  6.56  per  cent  of  net 
sales. 


•".m 


54 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


Comparing  Group  IV,  composed  of  mills  making  seamless  hosiery 
of  silk  or  of  silk  and  cotton  mixtures,  all  in  Pennsylvania,  with  Group  V, 
composed  of  mills  making  a  similar  product,  in  Ohio,  Micldgan, 
Illinois,  and  Wisconsin,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  percentages  of  profit 
of  mills  in  Group  IV  were  much  smaller. 

These  differences  between  Group  II  and  Group  III  and  between 
Group  IV  and  Group  V  may  be  explained  in  part  liy.  the  fact Jbhat 
higher  wages  are  paid  to  employees  in  hosiery  mills  in  Pennsylvania 
than  to  those  in  southern  hosiery  mills.  In  a  section  of  this  report 
headed  ''Wages  and  hours  of  labor"  appears  Table  73,  reproduced 
from  a  bulletm  issued  by  the  Bureau  of  Labor  Statistics.  So  far  as 
the  data  are  given  by  States  for  the  occupations  of  employees  in 
hosiery  mills,  the  statistics  show  that  in  1914  wagers  were  higher  in 
Pennsylvania  than  the  average  for  all  States.  The  average  rate  of 
wages  per  hour  in  Pennsylvania  and  the  general  average  for  all 
States  are  given  in  this  bulletin  for  th(3  occupations  sliown  in  Table  23 : 

Table  23. — ^Average  Rates  op  Wages  per  Hour  in  Hosiery  Mills  in  Penn- 
sylvania Compared  with  Those  in  all  States  from  Which  Data  Were 
Reported,  1914. 


Occui)ations. 


Winders 

Knitters,  footers,  or  toppers 
Knitters,  "lady  hose" 

Do 

Knitters,  full  fashioned 

Toppers,  full  fashioned 

Seamers,  full  fashioned 

Loopers 

Welters 

Menders,  fine  hosiery 

Menders,  rough  hosiery 

Boarders 

Inspectors  and  folders 

Other  employees 

Do 


Sex. 


F. 
F. 
H 
F. 

M 
F. 
F. 
F. 
F. 
F. 
F. 
M 
F. 
M 
F. 


All  States  from  which  data 
were  reported. 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments 
report- 
ing. 


27 
37 
17 
12 
9 
9 
9 
42 
25 
29 
39 
40 
34 
38 
38 


Employ- 
ees 
re{K)rted. 


464 

2,800 
313 
125 
507 
520 
306 

2,318 
285 
309 
867 

1,097 
473 

2,390 
873 


Average 

rate  of 

wages 

per  hour. 


$0. 145 
.150 
.198 
.179 
.407 
.152 
.173 
.154 
.160 
.153 
.148 
.228 
.156 
.181 
.123 


Pennsylvania, 


Estiib- 
lish- 
nients 
report- 
ing. 


10 
8 
2 
6 
4 
4 
4 

11 
6 
8 
9 

10 
7 

11 

11 


Employ- 
ees 
reported. 


224 

1,244 

51 

63 

229 

259 

156 

822 

70 

92 

206 

325 

99 

753 

1,148 


Average 
rate  of 
wages 

[terhour. 


$0,150 
.167 
.214 
.201 
.424 
.157 
.193 
.170 
.203 
.180 
.169 
.283 
.168 
.184 
.121 


This  table  shows  that  the  average  rates  of  wages  per  hour  of 
employees  in  all  the  specified  operations  were  highc^r  in  Pennsylvania 
than  the  average  for  all  States  from  which  data  were  reported. 
As  shown  by  Table  33,  page  67,  the  percentage  for  direct  labor,  based 
on  net  sales,  of  establishments  making  cotton  seamless  hosiery,  was 
24.28  in  Group  II,  composed  of  15  Peimsylvania  mills  and  1  New  York 
mill;  and  it  was  18.14  in  Group  III,  composed  of  16  southern  mills. 

The  difference  between  the  average  hourly  rates  of  wages  in 
Pennsylvania  and  those  in  the  South  accounts  to  some  extent  for 
the  larger  average  profit  of  the  southern  mills.  The  fact  that, 
generally  speaking,  the  mills  in  botli  the  South  and  West  are  of  more 
recent  construction  and  are  equipped  with  more  modem  machinery 
than  are  those  in  Pennsylvania  also  accounts,  to  some  extent,  for  the 
larger  percentage  of  profits  of  the  southern  and  wt^stem  mills. 


CAPITAL,  PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 
PEECENTAGES  OF  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


55 


Table  24  shows,  by  groups,  the  average  per  cent  of  manufacturing 
profit  on  capital  employed  in  business  and  on  net  sales,  as  appears 
m  Table  21,  and  also  the  per  cent  that  direct  labor  was  of  the  cost  of 
materials,  manufacturing,  and  selling,  as  shown  by  Table  39,  which 
appears  in  the  section  of  this  report  under  ''Cost  and  profit  by  estab- 
lishments'' (p.  83). 

Table  24. — Average  Per  Cent  op  Manufacturing  Profit  on  Capital  Employed 
IN  Business  and  on  Net  Sales  and  Per  Cent  that  Direct  Labor  was  of  Total 
Costs,  by  Groups. 


Groups. 

Per  cent  of  manu- 
facturing profit  on- 

Per  cent 
direct  labor 

Mills  making- 

Capital 

em- 
ployed 

in 
business. 

Net  sales. 

was  of  cost 
of  materials, 
manu- 
facturing, 
and  selling. 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery 
(East  and  West.) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania  and  New  York) 

Sftamlftss  cotton  hosiery  ( Souths        

I 

15.50 

2.95 
14.30 

6.85 
14.68 

4.05 

10.07 

8.92 

1.76 
7.60 
3.83 
6.56 
2.32 

7.08 

29.35 

II 

25.28 

Ill 

IV 

V 

21.22 

Sftamlpss  hosierv  of  cotton  and  silk  (Pennsylvania) 

26.96 

Sp?»Tnlp«;<;  hn<;iprv  of  cotton  and  silk  (^West)    .               

17.76 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed  (East,  West, 

and  South.) 
Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yams  (East  and  West) 

VI 

VII 

15.68 
25.75 

Table  24  shows  that  the  mills  making  hosiery  of  wool,  worsted,  or 
merino  mixed  with  cotton,  and  buying  their  yams  (Group  VI) ,  had 
an  average  manufacturing  profit  on  net  sales  of  only  2.32.  Mills 
that  make  such  a  product  nave  found  it  much  more  profitable  to 
spin  their  own  yarns.  This  is  largely  because  wool  costs  much  more 
than  cotton,  and  mills  that  spin  their  own  yarns  of  wool  and  cotton 
mixed  can  vary  the  per  cent  of  wool  used  according  to  the  fluctuations 
of  the  wool  market.  This  is  illustrated  by  comparing  Group  VI 
with  Group  VII.  The  mills  in  both  of  these  groups  make  the  same 
kind  of  product,  but  the  mills  in  Group  VI  buy  all  their  yams,  and 
the  mills  in  Group  VII  spin  their  wool,  worsted,  and  merino  yams. 
The  average  per  cent  of  manufacturing  profit  on  net  sales  was  2.32 
in  Group  VI,  as  compared  with  7.08  in  Group  VII. 

An  examination  of  Table  24  shows  that  the  profit  on  capital 
employed  in  business  was  much  larger  than  it  was  on  net  sales. 
Contrasting  groups  of  mills  making  the  same  kind  of  product,  the 
following  percentages  of  manufacturing  profit  on  capital  employed  in 
business  are  shown : 

Mills  making  full-fashioned  hosiery  of  all  materials:  Group  I, 
15.5  per  cent. 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton:  Group  II  (all  but  one  in 
Pennsylvania),  2.95  per  cent;  Group  III  (all  but  one  in  the  South), 
14.3  per  cent. 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of  silk  and  cotton :  Group  TV  (all  in 
Pennsylvania),  6.85  per  cent;  Group  V  (all  in  Middle  Western  States), 
14.68  per  cent. 


II 


56 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed :  Group  VI 
(mills  buying  yams),  4.05  per  cent;  Group  VII  (mills  spinning  yams), 
10.07  per  cent. 

The  reports  received  during  this  investigation  show  great  differ- 
ences in  the  percentages  of  profit  earned  by  hosiery  establishments. 
Table  25  shows  for  each  establishment,  as  well  as  for  each  group,  the 
manufacturing  and  final  profit  based  on  capital,  etc.,  and  on  net  sales. 

Table  25. — Percentage  op  Manufacturing  Profit  and  Final  Profit,  Based 
ON  Capital  Employed  in  Business  and  on  Net  Sales,  by  Establishments 
AND  Groups  of  Establishments. 

[For  definition  of  terms  "manufacturing  profit"  and  "final  profit*'  see  p.  51.] 


Establishments  and  groups. 


Mills  makmg  full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and 
seamless  hosiery  (East  and  West),  Group  I? 

Establishment  No  1  o 

Establishment  No.  2 

Establishment  No.  3 

Establishment  No.  4 

Establishment  No.  5 '.'.'.'.'.'.. 

Establishment  No.  6 

Establishment  No.  7 '.'.'.'.. 

Establishment  No.  8 !!!!!!!!!!!! 

Establishment  No.  9  c 

Average 

Mills  making  seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania 
and  New  York),  Group  II: 

Establishment  No.  10 

Establishment  No.  11 .' .' ." ' 

Establishment  No.  12 

Establishment  No.  13 

Establishment  No.  14 "'.['. 

Establishment  No.  15 

Establishment  No.  16 

Establishment  No.  17 d ".['. 

Establishment  No.  18 

Establishment  No.  19 

Establishment  No.  20 

Establishment  No.  21 

Establishment  No.  22 

Establishment  No.  23 

Establishment  No.  24 

Establishment  No.  25 '. 

Average 

Mills  making  seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) ,  Group  III : 

Establishment  No.  26 

Establishment  No.  27  d 

Establishment  No.  28 

Establishment  No.  29 " 

Establishment  No.  30  « 

Establishment  No.  31 

Establishment  No.  32 ' 

Establishment  No.  33 

Establishment  No.  34 '. 

Establishment  No.  35 

Establishment  No.  36 

Establishment  No.  37  < 

Establishment  No.  38 ." " 

Establishment  No.  39  / .'.'."'' 

Establishment  No.  40 !.!........ 

Establishment  No.  41 

Average 


Per  cent  of  manufac- 
turing profit  on— 


Capital  em- 
ployed in 
business. 


6.96 
38.24 

5.83 

5.03 

&7.44 

29.19 

28.79 

23.08 

9.75 


15.50 


Net  sales. 


15.40 

6.99 

4.46 

3.77 

22.49 

b.l7 

1.43 

6  18. 61 

13.96 

32.26 

21.93 

6  10. 03 

3.67 

6  3.70 

3.22 

1.32 


2.95 


6  1.53 

14.04 

6.08 

6  5.90 

13.54 

16.64 

.45 

22.90 

6  20.71 

14.35 

6  5.91 

14.19 

10.38 

85.55 

11.65 

20.12 


14.30 


o  Reports  for  6  months. 
6  Loss. 


e  Heports  for  1:{  months. 
d  Reports  for  14  months. 


12.83 
11.17 

3.79 

2.44 

6  4.59 

13.  :V2 

7.27 
16.75 

6.42 


8.»2 


7.89 
6  1.04 


4.16 
3.  SO 
4.&2 
6.11 

l.os 

6  5.  ;J5 

3.10 

11.08 

9.86 

2.27 

6  2.47 

l.(i3 

1.11 


1.76 


6  1.J« 
7.83 
2.:{1 

6  2.72 

8.76 

8.45 

.69 

13.23 

6  .28 

9.7» 

6  4.M 
9.24 
4.94 

19. 91 
5.78 
9.30 


7.«0 


Per  cent  of  final  profit 
on— 


Capiinl  em- 
ployed in 
ousiness. 


5.63 
37.09 


83 
11 


6  9.37 

27.30 

25.08 

23.08 

6.83 


13.92 


4.74 

6.99 

2.36 

3.77 

21.91 

6  1.13 

1.13 

!>  19. 34 

4.17 

29.24 

21.93 

Ml.54 

3.35 

6  4.44 

6  1.97 

6  3.89 


6.51 


6  1.53 

7.57 

.15 

6  5.90 

10.59 

16.64 

6  1.74 

22.90 

6  25. 97 

10.64 

6  6.79 

12.82 

7.76 

85.55 

9.79 

18.19 


12.35 


Net  sales. 


10.38 
10.84 

3.79 

2.00 

6  5.78 

12.46 

6.33 
16.75 

4.50 


8.02 


2.42 

6  1.04 

2.21 

3.30 

4.40 

6.79 

.86 

6  5.56 
.93 

10.04 
9.86 

6  6.45 


2. 
6  2. 
6  1. 


07 
97 
00 


6  3.27 


6.31 


6  1.99 

4.22 

.06 

6  2.72 

6.85 

8.45 

6  2.70 

13.23 

6  10.38 

7.25 

6  5.54 

8.35 

3.69 

19.91 

4.86 

8.40 


6.56 


e  Iteports  for  11  months. 
/  Reports  for  2  years. 


CAPITAL,  PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 


57 


Table  25. — ^Percentage  op  Manufacturing  Profit  and  Final  Profit,  Based 
on  Capital  Employed  in  Business  and  on  Net  Sales  by  Establishments 
AND  Groups  of  Establishments— <^ontinued. 


I'er  cent  of  manufac- 
turing profit  on — 

Per  cent  of  final  profit 
on- 

Establishments  and  groups. 

Capital  em- 
ployed in 
Dusiness. 

Net  sales. 

Capital  em- 
ployed in 
business. 

Net  sales. 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (Penn- 
sylvania), Group  IV: 
Establishment  No.  42 

16.95 
.23 

O.90 
5.20 
9.40 
4.03 

13.37 
3.22 
7.28 

30.08 
06.98 

16.12 

.25 

ol.OO 

6.85 

7.67 

2.34 

6.45 

2.16 

4.31 

11.19 

03.21 

16.95 

0.98 

02.94 

4.56 

8.60 

3.40 

12.81 
2.76 
6.88 

28.81 
08.45 

15.12 

Establishment  No.  43 

0  1.07 

Establishment  No.  44 

03.28 

Establishment  No.  45 

5.12 

Establishment  No.  46 

7.02 

Establishment  No.  47 

1.97 

Establishment  No.  48 

6.18 

Establi-shment  No.  49 

1.85 

Establishment  No.  50 

4.08 

Establishment  No.  51 

10.72 

Establishment  No.  62 

03. 89 

Average 

6.86 

3.83 

5.91 

3.31 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (West), 
Group  V: 
Establishment  No.  63 

0  12.03 

02.53 

11.49 

6.53 

6.43 

16.91 

7.62 

a  4.  OS 

29.97 

0  13. 10 

04.54 

6.33 

6.10 

2.48 

4.72 

5.81 

02. 28 

10.11 

0  12.03 

04. 69 

9.79 

4.50 

04.77 

16.91 

4.02 

06. 60 

26.13 

0  13. 10 

Establishment  No.  64 

08.43 

Establishment  No.  55 

5.40 

Establishment  No.  56 

3.51 

Establishment  No.  57 

02.17 

Establishment  No.  58 

4.72 

Establishment  No.  69 

3.06 

Establishment  No.  60 

03. 69 

Establishment  No.  61 

8.82 

Average 

14.68 

6.56 

11.30 

5.05 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed 
(East,  West,  and  South),  Group  VI: 
Establishment  No.  62 

7.82 
6.79 
9.72 
1.67 

6.86 
4.17 
2.21 
1.30 

7.82 
5.21 
2.12 
1.67 

6.86 

Establishment  No.  63 

3.20 

Establishment  No.  64 

.48 

Establishment  No.  65 

1.30 

Average 

4.05 

2.32 

2.74 

1.57 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yarns 
(East  and  West),  Group  VII: 
Establishment  No.  66 

a  7. 11 

4.08 

0  1.73 

4.26 

a8.23 

18.34 

19.60 

6.53 

0  2.86 

8.20 
01.12 

2.64 
09. 58 

9.59 
12.69 

4.80 

07.11 

2.81 

05.20 

.68 

011.20 

17.37 

19.15 

6.48 

0  2.86 

Establishment  No.  67 

5.64 

Establishment  No.  68 

03.37 

Establishment  No.  69 

.42 

Establishment  No.  70 

0  13.04 

Establishment  No.  71 

9.09 

Establishment  No.  72 

12.40 

Establishment  No.  73 

4.75 

Average 

10.07 

7.08 

9.29 

6.63 

o  Loss. 


The  foregoing  table  shows  that  of  the  73  establishments  from  which 
data  were  secured,  18  had  manufacturing  losses  and  23  had  final  losses. 
The  item  of  interest  on  borrowed  money  accounted  principally  for  the 
difference  between  manufacturing  losses  and  final  losses. 

The  table  shows  also  that  of  the  73  establishments  reporting,  27 
earned  during  their  last  business  periods  10  per  cent  or  more  of  profit 
on  their  capital  employed  in  business,  the  highest  per  cent  oeing 
85.55  (establishment  No.  39)  in  two  years,  or  at  the  rate  of  42.78  per 
cent  per  year. 

Considering  manufacturing  and  final  profits  and  losses  on  net  sales, 
it  is  seen  that  the  greatest  percentage  of  profit  of  any  establishment 
was  19.91  (establishment  No.  39)  and  the  largest  percentage  of  loss 
was  13.10  (No.  53).  Thirty-one  had  a  manufacturing  profit  of  over 
5  per  cent  on  net  sales. 


'  ti 


■N 


58 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


The  fact  that  an  estabhshment  made  a  very  sma]l  profit  or  had  a 
loss  may  have  been  due  to  several  causes,  such  as  (a)  poor  factory 
management,  (b)  poor  cost-finding  system,  (c)  poor  selling  methods, 
(d)  too  little  care  in  extending  credits,  (e)  lack  of  sufficient  capital, 
(/)  too  much  withdrawn  from  the  business  by  the  owner,  partnei*s,  or 
officers. 

PROFITS  EARNED  BY  LARGE  AND  SMALL  ESTABLISHMENTS. 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  whether  large  or  small  factories 
are  more  efficiently  conducted  with  reference  to  economy  of  produc- 
tion. In  the  larger  factories  efficiency  systems  have  effected  certain 
economies,  but  in  some  of  these  factories  the  overhead  expenses  are 
disproportionately  large.  The  establishments  in  each  group  sliown 
in  the  preceding  table  were  arranged  in  the  order  of  the  amounts  of 
net  sales,  the  establishment  with  th(^  smallest  sales  first  and  the*,  one 
with  the  largest  last.  An  examination  of  the  table  shows  that  there 
were  no  decided  differences  in  the  percentages  of  profit  between  the 
smaller  and  the  larger  establishments  in  each  group. 

PROFITS  OF  FULL-FASHIONING  MILLS. 

Group  I  is  composed  of  9  mills  that  make  full-fashioned  hosiery. 
Full-fasnioned  hosiery  exclusively  is  made  by  4  of  these  and  both 
full-fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery  by  5.  For  pur])oses  of  compari- 
son, the  data  for  this  group  in  the  preceding  table  are  divided  as  sliown 
in  Tables  26  and  27. 

Table  26. — ^Per  Cent  of  ^Manutacturino  Profit  and  Finai-  Profit,  by  Estab- 
lishments Making  Full- Fashioned  Hosiery  Exclusively, 


Per  cent  of  manu- 
facturing   profit 
on — 

Per  cent  of  final 
profit  oil — 

EstabUshment  No. 

Capital 

em- 
ployed in 
business. 

Net  sales. 

Capital 

em- 
ployed in 
business. 

Net  sales. 

2 

38.24 

5.83 

29.19 

28.79 

11.17 
3.79 

13.32 
7.27 

37.09 

5.83 

27.30 

25.08 

10.84 

3 

3.79 

6 

12.46 

7 

6.33 

Average 

24.50 

8.54 

22.33 

7.79 

Table  26  includes  4  estabhshments  making  full-fashioned  hosiery 
exclusively,  and  the  product  of  3  of  these  was  made  entirely  of  sUk 
and  the  product  of  1  was  made  of  sUk  or  cotton,  or  of  both  silk  and 
cotton. 

Table  27. — Per  Cent  op  Manufacturing  Profit  and  Final  Profit,  by  Estab- 
lishments Making  Both  Full-Fashioned  and  Seamless  Hosiery. 


Establishment  No. 


lo 

4 

5 

8 : 

9  c 

Average 

a  Report  for  6  mouths.  b  Loss, 


Per  cent  of  manufac- 
turing profit  on-  - 


Capital 
employed 
in  business. 


6.96 

5.03 

b7.44 

23.08 

9.75 


13.23 


Net 
sales. 


12.83 
2.44 

b  4.  59 

16.  75 

6.42 


9.11 


Per  cent  of  final  profit 
on— 


Caoital 
employed 
iu  business. 


5.63 

4.11 

1*9.37 

23.08 

6.83 


11.80 


Net 
sales. 


10.38 

2.00 

6  5.78 

16.75 
4.50 


8.13 


CAPITAL,  PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 


59 


Table  27  includes  5  establishments  making  both  full-fashioned  and 
seamless  hosiery,  and  the  product  of  4  of  them  was  made  of  silk  or 
cotton,  or  of  both  silk  and  cotton,  and  the  product  of  1  was  made  of 
cotton  or  wool,  or  of  both  cotton  and  wool. 

The  average  percentage  of  manufacturing  profit  on  net  sales  was 
sUghtly  smaller  with  the  establishments  making  full-fashioned  hosiery 
exclusively  than  with  establishments  making  both  full-fashioned  and 
seamless  hosiery,  but  the  former  class  of  establishments  had  a  much 
higher  percentage  of  profit  on  their  investment.  These  facts  appear 
in  the  following  condensed  Table  28 : 

Table  28. — Percentages  of  Profit  of  Establishments  Making  Full-Fashioned 
Hosiery  Compared  with  Those  of  Establishments  Making  Both  Full-Fash- 
ioned AND  Seamless  Hosiery. 


Establishments  making- 


Full-fashioned  hosiery  exclusively 

Both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hosierj-. 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Average  percentage  of 
manu  facturing 
profit  on — 


Capital 

emyiloyed 

in  business, 


24.50 
13.23 


Net 
sales. 


8.54 
9.11 


TUBNOVEB  OF  CAPITAL. 

An  examination  of  Table  25  shows  that  while  some  estabhshments 
made  small  percentages  of  profit  on  their  net  sales  they  made  large 
percentages  of  profit  on  the  capital  employed  in  their  business.  Tms 
was  due  to  the  fact  that  in  some  estabhshments  the  capital  was  turned 
over  more  frequently  than  in  others.  The  same  table  also  shows  large 
differences  between  the  groups  with  regard  to  capital  employed  m 
the  business  as  compared  with  net  sales.  These  dinerences  are  shown 
more  conspicuously  in  Table  29. 

Table  29. — Capital  Turnover  or  Ratio  of  Net  Sales  to  Capital  Employed  in 

the  Business,  by  Groups  of  Establishments. 


Classification. 

(1  roups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital 
employed 
in  busiiaess. 

Net  sales. 

Ratio  of 
net  sales 
to  capital 

em- 
ployed. 

All  mills  reporting  data 

itovn 

lltoVlI 

IltoVl 

I 

73 

04 

56 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 
4 

8 

$15,548,885 

10,368.027 
7,118.137 

5,180,858 

1,554,777 

2,423.413 
1,414,023 

1,191.542 
834,382 

2,949,890 

$27,010,893 

18.011.709 

i;i,Sl4.7t>8 
8,999.184 

2.002,953 

4.559.099 
2.528.796 

2.f.«.5.282 
1,458,03(> 

4.196,942 

1.74 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosicrv 

1.74 

Seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all  yams . . . 
Full-fashioned  or  both  full-ftishioned  and 

1.86 
1.74 

seamless  hosiery  (East  and  West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania 

and  New  York). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) 

II 

1.67 

Ill 

IV 

1.88 

Seamless   hosiery    of  cotton   and   silk 

(Pennsylvania). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk(West). 
Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton 

mixed  (East,  West,  and  South). 
Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yams 

(East  and  West). 

1.79 

* 

V 

2.24 

VI 

1.75 

VII 

1.46 

e  Report  fur  13  months. 


60 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


By  this  table  it  is  seen  that  the  turnover  of  caoital  was  much 
greater  in  some  groups  than  in  others.  The  ratio  that  the  average 
net  sales  were  to  the  capital  employed  in  business  varied  from  1.46 
in  Group  VII  to  2.24  in  Group  V,  tne  average  for  aU  establishments 
(Groups  I  to  VII)  being  1.74. 

PEOFITS  OF  MILLS  USING  DIFFERENT  MATERIALS. 

Hosiery  is  made  of  cotton  by  all  establishments  in  Groups  II  and 
III,  of  cotton  and  silk  by  all  establishments  in  Grou])s  IV  and  V,  and 
of  cotton  and  wool  by  all  establishments  in  Group  VI.  The  estab- 
lishments making  full-fashioned  hosii^ry  (Group  I)  and  the  estab- 
lishments making  seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yarn  (Group  VII) 
use  different  materials.  The  percentages  of  profit  of  esta])lishments, 
arranged  according  of  the  materials  used,  are  shown  in  Table  30. 

Table  30. — Percentage  op  Profit  of  Establishments  Classified  by  thk  Ma- 
terials That  They  Used. 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Percentage  of  man- 
ufacturing itroflt 
based  on — 

Percentage  of  final 
])rofit  based 
on— 

Product  made  of— 

Capital 

em- 
ployed in 
business. 

Net  sales. 

Cai)ital 

em- 
ployed in 
business. 

Net  sales. 

Cotton: 

Group  II. — Seamless 

16 
16 

2.95 
14.30 

1.76 
7.60 

«0.51 
12.35 

a  0.31 

Group  III. — Seamless 

6.56 

Total 

32 

9.86 

5.48 

7.33 

4.017 

Wool:  Group  "Vll. — Seamless,  mills  spimung  yam.. . 

2 

3.a5 

4.46 

1.89 

2.77 

Cotton  and  wool: 

Group  I. — Full  fashioned  and  seamless 

1 
4 
2 

5.03 

4.05 

a  5.  99 

2.  i4 
2.32 

a  5.  46 

4.11 

2.74 

«9.13 

2.00 

Group  VI. — Seamless 

1.57 

Group  Vll.— Seamless,  mills  spinning  yarn 

0  8.33 

Total 

7 

2.22 

1.31 

.58 

.35 

Silt:  Grfflip  T, — y^^^^  fashinnpifl                 

2 

31.04 

12.71 

29.30 

12.00 

Cotton  and  silk: 

Group  I. — Full  fashioned 

2 

4 

11 

9 

20.73 

13.77 

6.85 

14. 08 

6.66 
9.75 
3.83 
6.56 

18.32 

12.31 

5.91 

1L30 

5.99 

Group  I. — Full  fashioned  and  seamless 

8.72 

GrouD  IV. — Seamless 

3.31 

Group  V. — Seamless 

5.05 

Total 

26 

13.20 

7.41 

n.43 

6.42 

Cotton,  silk,  and  wool:  Group  VII.— Seamless,  mills 

•jpinning  yam                        

4 

12.51 

8.20 

12.04 

7.89 

All  establishments 

73 

11.56 

6.66 

9.82 

5.66 

a  Loss. 


In  the  order  of  highest  percentages  of  manufacturing  profit,  ])ased 
on  net  sales,  the  average  percentages  of  establishments  using  different 
materials  were  as  follows:  Silk,  12.71;  cotton,  silk,  and  wool,  8.20; 
cotton  and  silk,  7.41;  cotton,  5.48;  wool,  4.46;  cotton  and  wool,  1.31; 
all  materials,  6.66. 


CAPITAL,  PROFIT,  AND  TURNOVER. 
TARIFF  RATES  ON  HOSIERY  OF  DIFFERENT  MATERIALS. 


61 


As  shown  by  Table  21,  the  average  percentage  of  profit  of  the  9 
establishments  in  Group  I  was  considerably  higher  than  the  average 
in  any  other  group.  This  can  not  be  explained  on  the  ground  of  the 
difference  in  duty  on  hosiery  made  of  different  materials,  because  the 
manufacturers  oi  hosiery  made  of  cotton,  or  of  wool,  or  of  cotton  and 
wool  mixed,  received  the  benefit  of  a  higher  rate  of  duty  than  did  the 
manufacturers  of  hosiery  made  of  silk,  or  of  which  silk  was  the  com- 
ponent material  of  chief  value. 

Most  of  the  reports  from  hosiery  establishments  were  for  the  year 
ending  December  31,  1913.  The  new  tariff  on  silk  and  cotton  goods 
went  into  effect  October  4,  1913;  the  new  tariff  on  woolen  goods 
January  1,  1914.  Under  no  tariff  has  there  been  a  different  rate  of 
duty  on  full-fashioned  hosiery  from  the  rate  on  seamless  hosiery. 

On  articles  made  of  silk,  or  of  which  silk  was  the  component  mate- 
rial of  chief  value,  the  duty  under  the  old  tariff  was  60  per  cent  ad 
valorem;  under  the  new  tariff  it  is  50  per  cent. 

On  hosiery  made  of  cotton  the  duty  was  and  is  variable  according 
to  grades.  Under  the  old  tariff,  during  the  period  from  October  1, 
1912,  to  June  30,  1913,  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  for  consumption 
amounted  to  $1,877,809.24,  on  which  $1,302,277.73  duty  was  col- 
lected, which  was  equivalent  to  an  average  ad  valorem  rate  of  69.35 
per  cent;  or  9.35  per  cent  more  than  the  ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  on 
knitted  articles  made  of  silk,  or  of  which  silk  was  the  component 
material  of  chief  value,  under  the  old  tariff,  which  was  60  per  cent. 
Under  the  new  tariff,  during  the  period  from  October  4,  1913,  to  June 
30.  1914,  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  for  consumption  amounted  to 
$2,561,301.47,  on  which  $1,142,404.53  duty  was  collected,  which  was 
equivalent  to  an  average  rate  of  44.60  ad  valorem,  or  5.40  per  cent 
less  than  the  ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  on  knitted  articles  made  of 
silk,  or  of  which  silk  was  the  component  material  of  chief  value, 
under  the  new  tariff,  which  is  50  per  cent. 

During  the  whole  calendar  year  1913  woolen  goods  were  subject  to 
the  rates  of  duty  of  the  old  tariff.  Under  the  old  tariff  woolen  hosiery 
was  not  separately  classified,  but  the  rate  of  duty  on  knitted  articles 
of  wearing  apparel  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  was  44  cents 
per  pound  plus  60  per  cent  ad  valorem.  During  the  calendar  year 
1913  the  imports  of  such  wearing  apparel,  except  shawls,  amounted 
to  $373,903.41,  on  which  $341,331.87  duty  was  collected,  which  was 
equivalent  to  an  average  ad  valorem  rate  of  91.29,  or  31.29  more 
than  the  ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  on  knitted  articles  made  of  silk, 
or  of  which  silk  was  the  component  material  of  chief  value,  under 
the  old  tariff,  which  was  60  per  cent. 

From  the  foregoing  the  following  facts  appear: 

1.  By  the  9  establishments  that  manufactured  full-fashioned 
hosiery  (Group  I),  the  product  of  8  of  which  was  hosiery  of  silk,  or 
partly  of  silk,  a  higher  percentage  of  manufacturing  profit  was 
earned  on  net  sales  than  by  the  establishments  in  any  of  the  groups 
that  manufactured  seamless  hosiery  of  materials  other  than  silk. 

2.  From  January  1,  1913,  to  October  4,  1913,  the  establishments 
that  manufactured  seamless  cotton  hosiery  had  the  advantage  of 
9.35  per  cent  more  duty  than  did  the  establishments  that  manufac- 
tured hosiery  of  silk,  or  of  which  silk  was  the  component  material  of 
chief  value. "    ■ 


62 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


3.  During  the  whole  of  the  calendar  year  1913,  the  establishments 
that  manufactured  hosiery  composed  wholly  or  in  ])art  of  wool  (all 
of  which  manufactm-ed  seamless  hosiery,  except  one  establishment) 
had  the  advantage  of  31.29  per  cent  more  duty  than  did  the  estab- 
lishments that  manufactured  hosiery  of  silk,  or  of  wliich  silk  was  the 
component  material  of  chief  value. 

4.  The  higher  percentage  of  profit  earned  by  the  9  establishments 
that  manufactured  full-fashioned  hosiery  (Group  I),  of  which  8  used 
silk,  was  not  on  account  of  a  Idgher  Protection  under  the  tariff. 

5.  It  is  also  true  that  practi(5aUy  all  of  the  imports  of  hosiery  have 
been  and  are  of  full-fashioned  hosiery. 

6.  These  facts  inchcate  that  in  the  ostabHshments  reporting,  those 
which  manufactured  full-fashioned  hosiery  had  more  efficient  factory 
organization  or  better  selling  methods  than  did  th(^  establishments 
which  manufactured  seamless  hosiery. 

Further  details  in  regard  to  profit  wiU  be  found  in  this  report  under 
the  heads  of  ^'Cost  and  profit  by  establishments  and  groups,"  ''Cost 
and  profit  by  specified  miits/'  and  ''SeUing  methods. 


CHAPTER  II. 
COST   ABTD    PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 

The  schedules  used  for  the  collection  of  data  show  the  various 
items  of  the  cost  of  production.  The  principal  divisions  of  costs 
were  for  raw  material,  direct  labor,  indirect  labor,  factory  expense, 
administrative  expense,  and  selling  expense.  Each  of  the  divisions, 
except  that  for  materials,  was  subdivided  into  specified  items. 

The  salaries  of  active  partners  or  officers,  or  the  estimated  amounts 
that  individual  owners  would  have  paid  for  services  which  they 
themselves  performed,  were  entered  under  indirect  labor,  adminis- 
trative expense,  or  selling  expense,  according  to  the  character  of  the 
services  rendered. 

In  presenting  the  data  secured  from  the  73  estabhshments  the 
actual  amounts  of  their  net  sales  and  of  their  expenses  for  a  year  are 
not  shown  by  individual  estabhshments,  because  by  such  figures 
some  establishments  might  possibly  be  identified,  and  the  object  was 
to  avoid  disclosing  any  facts  that  were  given  in  confidence.  The 
net  sales,  the  items  of  cost,  and  the  profit  are  shown  by  percentages, 
according  to  estabhshments,  and  by  both  averages  and  percentages, 
according  to  groups. 

COST  AND  PROFIT  BASED  ON  NET  SALES. 

The  data  derived  from  the  estabhshment  schedules,  reduced  to 
averages  and  percentages,  are  shown  in  a  series  of  tables  which 
follow.  Table  31  shows,  by  groups  of  estabhshments,  the  average 
net  sales,  the  items  of  average  cost,  and  the  average  profit  or  loss  on 
net  sales  per  establishment. 


\] 


64 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


65 


so 


o 

I 

O  '^ 

CO  3 


«    02 
WW 

O  O 


CO 

H 
A 


i-9  ^'bM 


Ol 


00 


lis  3-^  a 


CO 


TO 


S  03  <u 


a> 


Ti.  r*  *^  ^> 
25  5  C  «CL 


e8  o  o  2 
a>  ocQ  g 


gel  t^gtSa 

,2  o  2  aJ  O 


.s^^S* 


^  2(2:  §  ^  2 


OQ 


«o 


^  o^  s  S  ^  5s 


05 


SI 


S 


a  M  be  "3  p  o 


J§ 


2-5 


s 


to" 


§^ 


o 
o 


§8 


s 


ffi 


s 


CO 


10 


»ooo 
CleO 

CO 


>o 


CO 


00  00 


■^  00 


s 


«ooo 
i-eo 


8 


IN'* 


^««o 


to 


oeo 
cnToT 


£3 

00 


•J.  CO 

f-Too" 


OS  10 


CO-* 

eo 


00 


■^•oo 


§co 


000 


CO 

eo 


o 


CO 


^00 1-1  ■<»<  t^ 
oeoiosjes 


QO<N  C^  'T  Q 

00  ^00  1— I  oc 


CO  1-t  Ob 


00'       -. 

•fooeo 


c» 


»-l  05  05  05CSI 

ic  i©eo  CO  'J" 


o 
CO 
eo 


i-H  .*  e>»  QM 

>>Qeo 


ooo  ( 

■«<  CO  1 


>  to  • 


C^wt-V        t-H 


o  i^«oe>» 
c>i  eo  i^  TT  CO 

co'i-To     ci 


§t^  O  05  cC 
t^  *  M  c< 


"5eo 
c^co 


eoc* 


>     o 


.-I         es 


eoo 
t6c9 


u^m 


00c  -♦■ » 

SiCOO 
■V  CO  35 


IN  15 

CO  "5 
coeo 


00 


t^O>ceo 

IN.-1  OiO 

i~-,-i  J5co 


?j: 


;s?*^! 


o  ■* 
coeT 


C^l 


R 


l«C 


p"?? 


eo 


1-t  t- t- «0  i-H 

■*  t-coeo^ 
•^ooeoeo^ 

od"»oo6"i-roo 


*io5ieoQC 

05C0  «0  lO  »fl 
C4  f-1  iQ        rH 


CO 
CM 


»0  Q  0>  t>-  OS 
.-I  00  CO  10  CO 


St>-05-^  CO 
eoi-i  coo 

■^c^Tt^    CO 


oc  A 


r^oo^*!-! 
ooc»r>-»{j 

•*         «o 


Nco 


05-^  00  CO 


-»   —  CO 

00*  V  t>- 


CD  CI 

00  CO 

pTef 


i-tNco 
c<fef 


(N 

00 


;3 


>  CO        00  1-1  r-^  O 


00 1» 


c<o» 


ej  «fl  C<  ^  eo  10  ( 

e^  CO      1--  CO  I— '  < 

1-1  OS        OCMCSI 

c*c<"  1 


OOS 


oc 


00 


U5 


01 


00 


§ 


^eoeo 

R3B? 


8SS 

1-t  Ai-H 


1-t  t- CD 
rHOOcT 


.*  »o«o 


i-tO 


(OC  t^oc-- 
)  ccoo  irS  00 

I  iOOSOlt^ 

ei"    eoe>r 


3228! 

1-1 A  a>  1-t  I 


OS 


'* 

00 


.-<  CD  eo  OiN 
^■weoobes 


•00t»» 
C4 


I  O-^  lOi-i 


l-tl-td 


00 


COWi-l 


:§§ 


»Ht* 


§! 


_  ,  .coeo»H 

i^C»OS00i-l 


Neo»o 
eo 


CONt^Cl 


t^OCc 
05  05C 


>C0iO00«  t^iO 

I  {J  r^  1-1  ift  Q  CD 

ICMi-tOcOOiS 

i-Tefco^ 


t>-a>eoic»oe*Q»^r^ 

8AcpOs00i-tiAiCf^ 
oo»-<i^e>»^t^t» 

i-ToTiOi-r 


»-teo»^ 


toeQitir-^eoines'^ci 

t^»C»OS0503Qi^i^ 

e««co»H.-iT»<J?5©oo 


i-t  uCi^ 


l-4CtCO<-t 


S 


J3S 


S 


00 

8 

eo 


SOOO 
*Os 
eoXTt" 

■*'»o"eo" 


e»©co 

.-lOCM 


00 


s 
R 

s 


§ 


■*  CDQO 


§COt» 
1-1 1-1 
T»<00 

^i>eo 


c»ooo 

tnoto 
1-1 1-1 1-t 

00^ 


«ot>-»n 

CD  t^  1-1 


r^^v  CO 

eo 


I 

s 


I 

.a 

s 

tn 


CO 
2; 


a 

03 
(4 


c 

5 


.i4 


I 


Si 


I 


§1 

**'    g'   CT    Im  flj 

b,  O  <U  0)^^ 

o^,tfftf^O 


OS 

o 


,  Ol  X  5i  3ja 


OS  » 


t.    b.  -M 


S^ 


ec 


s 


00 


00 


§8 


C4 


C« 


10 


s 


s 


eo 

1-^ 


I 


c« 


leo      t* 

CO 


i 


s 

oT 


32 


eo 


<ooo 

35* 


to 

s 

eo 


^$     $ 


CO 


e*r 


g 


00 


00 


S 


M 


8 


n 


3g.a-5 

5-0  2  I 

"Z!  S  o  OS 

o  sir*  o 


1 


O  b3        (m 


O 


1 


I 


■■UUiJ— ■-- 


66 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


The  average  net  sales  of  all  the  73  establishments  that  reported 
were  $370,012;  the  average  cost  of  goods  sold,  $345,385;  the  average 
manufacturmg  profit  on  net  sales,  $24,627;  and  the  average  final 
profit  on  net  sales,  $20,927.  These  items  for  all  establishments  and 
for  the  various  groups  are  shown  in  Table  32. 

Table  32.— Net  Sales,  Cost  op  Goods  Sold,  and  Manupacturino  and  Final 
Profit,  by  Groups  and  Combinations  op  Groups  op  Establishments, 

[For  definition  of  terms  "manufacturing  i)rofit"  and  "final  profit"  see  p.  51.] 


Classification. 


All  mills  reporting  data 

Mills  making- 
Seamless  hosiery 

Seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all 
yarns. 

Full-fashioned,  or  both  full-fash- 
ioned and  seamless  hosiery  (East 
and  West). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsyl- 
vania and  New  York). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk 
(Pennsylvania). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk 
(West). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton 
mixed  (East,  West,  and  South). 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yams 
(East  and  West). 


Groups. 


T  to  vn. 

II  to  vn 

II  to  VI. 
I 

n 

in 

IV 

V 

VI 

vn 


Estab- 
lishments, 


73 

64 
56 

9 


16 

16 
11 

9 

4 

8 


Average  per  establishment. 


Net 

sales. 


$370,012 

281,433 
246,692 

999,909 


162,685 

284,944 
229,890 

296,142 

364,659 

524,618 


Gout  of 
goods 
sold. 


$34.'),  .185 

26.'t.H87 
234,228 

91(1, 704 


159,819 

263,288 
221,086 

276, 701 

35<l,  201 

487,302 


Manufac- 
turing 
profit. 


124,627 

15,546 
12,464 

89,205 


2,866 

21,656 
8,804 

19,441 

8,458 
37, 116 


Final 
profit. 


$20,927 

12,5!i9 
9,505 

80,148 


O500 

18, 701 
7,599 

14,956 

5,713 

34,256 


«  Loss. 


As  will  be  observed  from  this  table,  the  averagi^  amounts  of  net 
sales  and  profits  per  establishment  wore  very  much  larger  in  Group  I 
than  in  any  other  group.  In  this  group,  composed  of  mills  makmg 
full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery,  the  aver- 
age net  sales  approximated  a  million  dollars.  The  group  with  the 
next  largest  average  ainounts  of  net  sales  and  profits  was  Group  VII, 
composed  of  mills  making  seamless  hosiery,  mostly  of  wool  and  cot- 
ton mixtures,  and  spinning  all  or  some  of  their  vams.  The  smallest 
average  net  sales  were  in  Group  II,  c(>mposed  of  15  mills  in  Peimsyl- 
vania  and  1  in  New  York.  This  group  also  had  the  smallest  average 
manufacturing  profit,  and  had  an  average  final  loss,  ac< counted  for 
by  an  extraordinarily  large  interest  account. <* 

For  the  purposes  of  comparison,  the  percentages  of  the  items  of 
cost  and  the  percentages  of  profit  aro  shown  in  the  condensed  tables 
which  follow.  Table  33  shows,  by  groups  and  combinations  of 
groups  of  establishments,  percentages  based  on  the  averages  of  net 
sales,  cost,  and  profit. 


o  See  per  cent  for  interest  in  this  group  shown  in  Table  33. 


I 

o 

n 

Q 

< 

CO 

p 
o 

Pi 

o 

>* 

to 

< 

m 

» 

:z 
o 

Q 
H 

< 

w 

m 
m 
O 

o 
fH 

o 


QD 

H 
Z, 

» 
so 

M 

n 
< 

H 

m 


Q 

< 


1^ 

o 

as 

o 


go 

W  o 


6< 
O 

OS 

»— ( 
Q 


O 
< 

> 

O 

m 

O 
< 

:^ 


CO 
CO 

u 

CQ 

Eh 


QD 
O 

M 

< 


COST    AND   PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISH  MEXTS. 


67 


a    M)  "S    a 

^  o 


00 


oj  2  ovi  «  o  S 


CQ  ^ 


M 


CQ  M 

o 


^   CO 


03 
« 
CQ 


CO 


T3  fl  S  3 

w    rti    Art    Q 

O 


a 

CQ       "Sr'. 


S  d  ^^  ^ 


CO  ^  /-^HH 

S  o  5  o 

CQ      w^ 


CO 


a^g.2>^D 


;o 


S  ®  3  c  rtr*?  S  c 

S§55-S^2 


Oi 


CO 
U5 


ago 

CQ      S 


z 


X,      bo 

2     2    ^« 


00 


8 


8 


^ 


8 


iC 


lO 


3 


00 

CO 

8^ 


OiCO 


o 


»o 


8 


OQO 

^  ■ 


^  ■ 


^8 


oo( 


N 


X 


8 


N 


00  CO 

00  CO 


-HO 


"50 


ffO 


Soo 


00  -H 

•CO 


CO 


C«'^J« 

OC'OO 

'iM' 


52 


iQ 


CO 


CO 


C<5 


'cO 


o 


82 


00 

00 


eo 


^J  C2  '^  1"^  ^* 
Ci       *  >-i       "  1-5 


CO 


"3 


SCO  CO  ?« 15 
■*  coeoco 


eotjoooco 

lo  of)  CO  t-t  CO 


>  CO  CO  •*  c« 
)t-*OC<»CO 


1-1       CM 


ICO  00  CO  es 

I  -t  CO— I  00 


•^        <N 


^ 


--eocios 

0>  X  CO  CO 


^       CV| 


s 


o>  ^  CO  — H 

10  00  -"  00 


c»coc5ic«co 
.-<    'c>»    ■    * 


R 


1000    •  cooo 


8S 


CO 


c* 


t^  r^  o  o  CO 

■*CDO-H00 


8SS2S 


'O 


s 


g=^ 


«fl 


^88 


OCOO 
COr-<i-l 


COO« 


cor^      ®  t^ 
000      00 


000 


eot>. 


^3S   § 


u 


s. 


2'oS    I 
.    .    .    ^ 

a 

(St 


800      osr-  00     a 
a     Noo    o 


9 

Ci 

o 

a 

3 


Sg     g8S    £ 


^S    S8S 


5 
S 


A 
93 

3 

08 


S 

3 


CO 


as       •• 

a  :;: 

03         .^ 


2  « 


O 

S3 


CO 

"3 
o 


•a 


o 


03.2  CO 


.2^ 

03  >. 


C 


*«"3  £•- fe 

Co  ®  «.J5S 
u 

08 


sS 

o 


a;  o  c 
._g  o  o 

es  CO  73 

t?   l-i   u. 

.-^_C3 

-S'ea'eS 
gcQco 


o    .^  ® 

_     -  'I'  eS 

®  2  - 
c  ^®  c 

*  X  -  c 

"«  2  o 


68 


THE    HOSIERY    IXDUSTRY. 


COST   AND   PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


69 


o 

Q 

n 
o 

< 

(^ 

o 

« 

n 

< 

O 

-<  C3 

§5 

3  I 

H 

2; 

H 

n 

as 

M 

PQ 
H 

00 


o 
o 

Q 

H 


H 

111 


QQ 

o 


M 


o 
o 


O 
H 

O 

O 


O 
M 

H 
Ph 


CO 

CO 

» 

pq 
-"J 


T3      H 


(->-u 


*2ta|^ 


CQ 


W 


3 
O 


8 


MT3 

efl  2  O  m  * 


P, 
o  o 

^5 


CO   C    M^ 
CO 


■52  «  §.2  ft 

g*eT3  3  S  3 

S  O  r>  <»  rt  O 


es  O  O  5 


CO 


^ 


S  o  a>  e  fr  o 
CQ     r',?®r'5 


■gt<^r«Ccn-tJi— < 


tf  CO  Q  g  0*~^ 

73  S '-J  fe  S"^ 
CQ     -^-a^^ 


en  m*^ 


eS 


95,-05- 


S     £    '-'hh 


§ 


-»■  lO  Ol 


r^ 


o 


8528 


— 4>00 


C< 


'  ic  OS  oi  lO  CO 


o^eo 


e>i 


■  ff  o  cv«  eo  ffo 


«0  <-!  00      ■  O  «0  U5  t--  T»< 


CO 


i-iosesi 


s 

eo 


rf  CO  p 

o 


c5 


C5 


c5 


h-  05  1(5 

•         •         • 

O 


N 


eo 


e^a5t^t^t-.cpTt<<ot>- 

•       ••'••■•• 


OS 


^ 


M 


IC 


-^o> 

05  l^ 


>ec 


01 
o 


00 


Oi«5 


000^ 


igoic< 


«  CO  QO  »^  b- 


ocoicocMCMujojosin 
dcoioooeoNt^cJi 

'  eo 


^oeoooTfo-^co 


i(N 


CO 


eo 

00 


C4 


?5cOMOO'«*<OOOcO 


N 


;??54:$s*=^^^^ 


>Tf"  coco  ■^ 


Ui 


»o 

OJ 


OS 


eo 
06 


CO  CO  "J 

Oioeo 


«OU5  0» 


I30< 


OSCOQ 

^eow 

eO'^P* 
OS 


C5  0>5 
"*  «CCO 

aoccJ'H 

00 


•2 

.3 

§ 

I 

o 

to 
C 
« 
ft 

9 

a»    . 
ffl  © 


•FN 

■(-> 


•§       ^= 


CO  © 


OS 


Sfe  -g 


S  e9  03  43 


o 


.3  MO 


f 

I 

a 

B 

to 

r 
ee 

if 

o 


T3 

"  3 

*^  o 

©    *■  c 


© 


© 
© 


bo,i:.33 

a  e  *V  - 
^^  --H  d  ©  fe 


CO 


s 


06 
OS 


§ 


OS 


e4 


to 


CO 


CO 


s 


K 


10 


s 


•I 


8 

4 


CO 


s 

"^ 


QO 


s 


38    ^ 

»0     '        r-3 


•no 


00 

o 


irj  l-H 


s 


o     o 


CO  1^ 


to 


s 


'J8 


$ 
♦ 


G 


o 

CO 

§ 

cog 


P 

O  Ml 


^1      J 


o 


GQ 


«  ©  C  ♦e 
g  3  ©  rt 

a  CO®  « 

O  be      o 


o 

CO 

to 


bC 


■4J 

to 

O 


—  * 

is 

23 
2  o 

©•m 

-M  3 
O  © 
S3 

23 
•3  § 

III 

ff  to 

•3  3-3 

Sl|2 


e3 
.3 


PERCENTAGES  OF  SPECIFIED  ITEMS  OF  COST. 

Examining  tlie  average  percentages,  in  Table  34,  of  all  establish- 
jnents  that  reported,  and  considering  net  sales  as  the  base,  or  100 
per  cent,  the  cost  of  the  raw  materials  was  46.74  per  cent,  the  cost  of 
goods  manufactured  88.49  per  cent,  the  manufacturing  profit  6.66 
per  cent,  and  the  final  profit  5.66  per  cent. 

Table  34. — Percentage  op  Average  Cost  of  Each  Specified  Item  and  Profits, 
Based  on  Net  Sales,   by  Combinations   op  Groups   of  Establishments. 


Items. 


Number  of  establishments . 
Net  sales 


All  establish- 
ments report- 
ing data, 
Groups  I  to 
VII. 


73 


100.00 


Raw  material 

Direct  labor 

Indirect  labor 

Factory  expense 

Admiiustrative  expense. 
Selling  expense 


46.74 
21.89 
3.88 
4.84 
2.83 
8.31 


Mills  making 
full-fashioned 
or  full-fash- 
ioned and 
seamless 
hosiery  (East 
and  West), 
Group  I. 


100.00 


41.88 
23.93 
3.59 
4.21 
1.99 
5.95 


Total  manufacturing  and  selling. 

Cost  of  goods  purchased 

Deduct  increase  in  stock  of  goods 


88.49 
6.  .50 
1.65 


81.55 

11.05 

1.52 


Cost  of  goods  sold . 


93.34 


91.08 


Manufacturing  profit 

Miscellaneous  income  (add  to  profit) . 
Interest  (deduct  from  profit) 


Final  profit. 


6.66 

.02 

1.02 


5.66 


8.92 
,96 


8.02 


Mills  making 
seamless 
hosiery, 

Groups  II  to 

vTi. 


64 


100.00 


49.17 
20.86 
4.02 
5.15 
3.25 
9.50 


Mills  buying 

all  yarns  and 

making 

seamless 

hosiery. 

Groups  II  to 


56 


100.00 


51.56 
20.40 
3.66 
4.99 
3.36 
9.52 


91.95 
4.23 
1.70 


93.49 
4.36 
2.90 


94.48 


5.52 

.04 

1.08 


4.48 


94.95 


5.05 

.05 

1.25 


3.85 


LARGEST  PROFITS  MADE   ON  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY. 

Comparing  the  average  percentages  of  the  mills  making  full-fash- 
ioned or  bot^  full-f ashionea  and  seamless  hosiery  (Group  I)  with  the 
average  percentages  of  the  mills  making  seamless  hosiery  (Groups  II 
to  Vli)  and  with  miUs  making  seamless  hosiery  and  buying  all  of 
their  yarns  (Groups  II  to  VI),  it  will  be  observed  that  in  (xroup  I  the 
percentages  for  materials  and  for  cost  of  goods  sold  were  lower  and 
the  percentages  for  both  manufacturing  and  final  profit  higher.  In 
Table  35  the  differences  are  shown  by  groups. 


n 


70 

TABLfi   35. 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 

-Percentages  op  Average  Costs  of  Specified  Items  and  Profits 
Based  on  Net  Sales,  by  Groups  of  Establihhments. 


COST   AND   PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


71 


MUIs  mak- 
ing full- 
fashioned 
or  both 
full-fash- 
ioned and 
seamless 
hosiery 
(East  and 
West), 
Group  I. 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery. 

Items. 

Cotton 
(Pennsyl- 
vania and 
New 

York), 
Group  II. 

Cotton 

(South), 

Group  III. 

Cotton 
and  silk 

(Pennsyl- 
vania), 

Group  IV. 

Cotton 

and  silk 

(West), 

Group  V. 

Wool  and 
cotton 
mixed 
(Kast, 

West,  and 
South), 

Group  VI. 

Wool  and 
cotton 
mixed, 
mills  spin- 
ning yarns 
(Kastand 

West), 
GroupVII. 

Number    of    establish- 
ments  

q 

^c 

16 

11 

9 

4 

S»    1                            xu 

1 

8 

Net  sales 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 



100.00 

Raw  material 

41.88 
23.93 
3.59 
4.21 
1.99 
5.95 

50.88 
24.28 
4.01 
6.02 
2.92 
7.92 

50.00 
18.14 
3.64 
4.96 
3.05 
5.75 

51.74 
26.88 
5.14 
4.67 
3.85 
7.42 

44.98 

17.05 

3.30 

4.  SO 

4.33 

21.94 

69.33 
15.47 
1.65 
4.70 
2.49 
5.05 



Direct  labor 

41.29 

Indirect  labor. 

22.38 

Factory  expense 

5.22 

Administrative  expense. 
Selling  expense 

5.67 
2.90 

9.45 

Total  manufactur- 
ing and  selling... 
Cost  of  goods  purchased . 
Deduct  increase  in  stock 
of  goods 

81.55 
11.05 

1.52 

96.03 
4.56 

2.35 

85.44 
9.35 

3.39 

99.70 
.18 

3.71 

96.00 
1.90 

4.55 

98.69 

86.91 
3.79 

1.01 

Add  decrease  in  stock  of 
goods 

2.22 

Cost  of  goods  sold.. 

91.08 

98.24 

92  40 

96.17 

93.44 

97.68 

92.92 

Manufacturing  profit. 
Miscellaneous      income 
(add  to  profit) 

8.92 

1.76 

.24 

2.31 

7.80 

3.83 

6.56 

2.32 

7.08 

Interest    (deduct    from 
profit) 

.90 

1.04 

.52 

1.51 

.75 

.55 

Final  profit 

8.02 

a.31 

6  56 

3.31 

5.05 

1.57 

6.  .53 

a  Loss. 


The  variations  in  the  percentages  for  raw  materials  sliown  in  the 
seven  groups  may  be  accounted  for  or  partly  accounted  for  by  one  or 
more  of  several  causes— the  different  kinds  of  materials  used,  different 
quahties  of  the  product,  different  methods  of  operation,  and  whether 
the  product  was  of  heavy  or  light  weight,  for  winter  or  summer  wear. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  average  percentages  for  direct  labor 
are  highest  in  Group  IV  and  lowest  in  Group  VI ;  the  selUng  cost  is  high- 
est in  Group  V  and  lowest  in  Group  VI ;  the  expense  for  interest  highest 
in  Group  11  and  lowest  in  Group  IV.  The  percentage  for  materials 
was  lowest  in  Group  VII,  as  mills  in  this  group  use  raw  cotton  or 
wool.  The  percentage  for  materials  was  highest  hi  Group  VI,  com- 
posed of  mills  buying  yarns  and  makmg  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton 
mixtures,  while  the  percentages  for  direct  labor,  inchrect  labor,  ad- 
ministrative expense,  and  selling  expense  were  lower  in  this  group 
than  in  any  other  of  the  seven  groups.  The  exceptionally  high  self- 
ing  expense  in  Groujo  V,  21.94  per  cent,  and  the  large  amount  of 
goods  purchased  in  Group  I,  11.05  per  cent,  reduce  materially  the 
percentages  for  other  factors  of  cost. 

COMPABATIVE   ADMINISTRATIVE   AND   SELLING   EXPENSE. 

The  percentages  of  the  items  of  factory  expense,  administrative 
expense,  and  selhiig  expense,  which  appear  in  Table  33,  are  repro- 
duced and  shown  for  purposes  of  comparison,  in  condensed  form  in 
Table  36, 


Table  36. — Percentages  of  Average  Factory,  Admim8tr.\tive,  and  Selling 
Expense,  by  Specified  Items  and  by  Groups  of  Establishments,  Based  on 
Net  Sales. 


Mills 
making 

full- 
fashioned 
or  both 

full- 
fashioned 

and 

seamless 

hosiery 

(East  and 

West), 

Group  I. 

Mills  making  .><«*amless  hosiery. 

Items. 

Cotton 
(Pennsyl- 
vania and 
New 

York), 
Group  II. 

Cotton 

(South), 

Group  III. 

Cotton 
and  silk 

(Pennsyl- 
vania), 

Group  IV. 

Cotton 

and  silk 

(West), 

Group  V. 

Wool  and 
cotton 
mixed 
(East, 

West,  and 
South), 

Group  VI. 

Wool  and 

cotton 

mixed, 

mills 

spinning 
yarns 

(East  and 

West), 

Group 

VII. 

Number    of     establish- 
ments   

9 

16 

16 

11 

9 

4 

8 

Factory  expense: 

Power,,  light,    and 
heat 

0.84 
.59 

L84 
.13 

.81 

L28 
.91 

2.82 
.32 

.69 

L14 
.46 

2.38 
.16 

.82 

1.05 
.73 

2.03 
.24 

.62 

1.53 

.87 

L60 

.18 

.32 

1.04 
.46 

2.33 
.22 

.65 

2.29 
.65 

1.19 
.12 

1.42 

Repairs 

Depreciation 

Fire  insurance 

Other    factory    ex- 
oense 

Total 

4.21 

6.02 

4.96 

4.67 

4.50 

4.70 

5.67 

Administrative  expense: 
Salaries  of  officials. . . 
Salaries  of  office  force. 
Rent,  general  office. . 

.63 
.47 

1.05 
.81 

1.06 

.87 

(o) 

.09 

.07 

1,74 
.92 

.68 
1.58 

.90 
.64 

.51 

.88 

Office  expense 

Insurance,  except  fire 
Collection  expense. . . 

.18 
.07 
.04 
.07 
.29 

.24 

.30 
.02 
.04 
.34 
.16 

.20 

.32 
.05 
.24 
.28 
.10 

.20 

.69 
.16 
.10 
.54 
.46 

.12 

.14 
.03 
.08 
.05 
.40 

.25 

.34 

.m 

.m 
.m 

.21 

Bad  debts 

.41 
.15 

.40 

Taxes 

other     administra- 
tive expense 

Total 

1.99 

2.92 

3.05 

3.85 

4.33 

2.49 

2.90 

Selling  expense: 

Salaries  of  officials. . . 
Commission  and  ex- 
pense  

.28 

3.39 
.56 

.02 
.02 
.35 

.29 
.79 
.25 

.65 

4.87 
.42 

.12 

2.89 
.07 

.27 
.07 
.06 

1.14 
.76 
.37 

.63 

4.16 
.29 

.59 

6.14 
.83 

.03 

2.19 
.32 

.as 

6.65 
.47 

Wages 

Rent,     show     and 
shipping  rooms 

Fire  insurance 

Packing  cases,  etc. . . 

Cartage  and  freight 
outward 

.06 
.76 

.58 
.51 
.07 

.09 
.44 

.63 
L12 

.06 

.09 
.51 

1.58 
9.74 
2.46 

.03 
.70 

1.62 
.03 
.13 

.05 
.49 

.19 
.75 
.53 

Advertising 

other  selling  expense 

Total 

5.95 

7.92 

5.75 

7.42 

'^1  04 

T     (1.T 

9.45 

1 

o  Less  than  one  one-hundredth  of  1  per  cent. 

In  examining  this  table  the  details  help  to  explain  why  the  per- 
centage for  administrative  and  seUing  expenses  were  higher  in  Group 
y  than  in  any  other  of  the  seven  groups  and  lower  in  Group  VI  than 
in  any  other.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  advertising  account  is  very 
large  in  Group  V  and  scarcely  anything  at  all  in  Group  VI. 

PEBCENTAGES    OF   COST   AND   PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Table  37  shows  the  data  for  each  estabhshment  separately  in  the 
same  form  as  they  appear  in  Table  33  for  groups. 


41 


-—*''"  1  n  -^  . 


72 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISH MEKTS. 


73 


CO 

H 
'A 

M 

s? 

K 

QQ 
)-3 

n 

< 

» 

» 

m 
aT 

H 
H 

o 

Q 

pq 

GQ 
O 

o 


o 

Q 

< 

00 

w 

o 

05 

H 
H 

Q 
H 

g 

O 
H 
P4 

O 

OQ 
» 


CO 

w 

PQ 

e3 


d 
5? 


o 

J2; 


1—1 

d 


d 


o 


o 


d 


00 

d 


o 


o 


"3 

d 


o 


TO 

d 


d 


o 


8 


TO 


% 


8 


SB 


<n 


05 


00 


8 


00 

TO 


00 


8 


5 


CM 


8 


OS 


8 


00 


05 


8 


00 
TO 


^ 


8 


o 


00 


8 
8 


^ 


(M 


9> 


N 


00 


TO 


» 

S^ 


O 
TO 


00 


g 


CM 


s 

JS 


1-1 


CM 


CO 


CM 


TO 


«o 


TO 


kfflOl 
«OTO 

CM'")' 


CM 


?5S 

CM^ 


TO 


-HCM 


8 


t^CM 

1—1  «c 


8S 


ITO 


CM 


S 


CDO) 


V  TO 


'^S 


«C( 


CM 


S^ 


»c 


^! 


fHCO 


TO 


TO 


cm' 


CM 


OS  Q  «0  iC  C 


TO 


SS?8^ 


TO 


i-f        CM 


S?8^*^ 


TO«  < 
CO 


rHrH  -"ji      *  JO 


•^  TOWJOS  'i' 
1^  0>  U5  t>»  0» 

■   'ui   *    ■ 


^0>i-i0t>. 

'cm    'to 


8StSJ::|g 


eci-i'^'^* 


S  S  00  o  '^ 


'*<  O  TO  Q?  f 
•*  o  ooo  ■* 

'  tH  CM 


CMTOCM»-<t>. 

i-H       'lO       "       ' 


» 1-1  00 1-1  X 


^ 


TOCM'^00 
00«O  OOTO 


CM 


CM«CCM  00-» 
^CM'^i-i  -< 


03 

IB 
o 


o 

5      ^ 


CM* 
«TO 


TO 


O 


•fcl 


« 


•2  8 

1^ 


3 

o 


« 


U3 


TO 


"3 
TO 


00 


s 


00 

TO 


C4 


-»  i'J    ?N    OT  ( 

v 
OS 
Em 


o 


90O 
CM  00 


CM 


O  00 


•HC< 


{2 


too 

t>.00 


t^CM 


ss 


^CM 

oso 


«Oi 


;00 


1*1-1 
U30 


sg 


§s^ 


^s 


CO 


9 


S88151; 


TO 


?S2 


CM  00 

ooo 


^ 


sa 


8 


r^  OS 


00  <o-^ 

«0  i^  50 


!3^ 


§52852^?:; 


00 


CM 


CM 


^^% 


CM 


8 


U3  t» 


00  CM 


icu;  to 

t>.  -H  C 


CMC5 

»CCC 


t^.'^TO 
•-(•lO  OS 

'to 


g 


§§82 


2SSS5J?g 


^58 


8S 


SS 


ooo 
CM  Si 


s? 


£3  CO  O  O 

®  o  o  g 
.     '^S  o  o  g 


rn   ^   li  -U 

.2  C8  OS  fl 


o 

g 

a,® 


00 


CO  o 


a?§ 


OO  : 


s 


u  3 

oqqqKO 


5'3'3®' 

3 


CM 


CM 


^52 


CM 


TO 


?5 


OS  u; 


TO 


S2 


tOiOTO 


l^  CM  •*  I-- 

U5  f  «■  J»l 


S!? 


TO 


»OCMTO 

'cicM 


i 
I 

§ 


•i     ^ 


CD    Ix 

US  « 


s 


5 

o 


HO 


a 

K 

o 

o  o  g 

&-2  i  8  2 


£ 


U.4 

••5 

Sat  >^ 


74 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST   AND  PROFIT  BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


75 


a 

8 


w 

a 

n 

GQ 

w 

H 
O 

OQ 

>^ 

A 

aT 
H 

h) 
<5 

O 
A 

m 

QQ 

o 
o 
o 

Q 

PM 

o 

» 
t— ( 

Q 


H 

C 

02 

C 

Eh 
'A 
H 
O 


CO 


o 
d 


6 


00 

CM 


6 


I 


6 


Si 

d 


d 


d 

Jz; 


d 


05 

o 

;z; 


00 
o 


o 


s 


8 


00 


8 
8 


•o 


00 

CO 


N 


n 


«3 


N 


CO 


1^ 

CI 


CI 


»o 


00 


00 


'O 


00 


ec 


o 


esj 


c» 


'J' 


OO 

1-4 
c« 


o> 


CO 


o 


00 


03 


o 


u 

g 

o 
o 

o 


"3     B 


ee 


CO 


o 

CO 


CO 

I-H 


CS« 


O 


05 
CI 


00 


c« 


Oi 


CO 


o 

si 


•  r>. 

t^ 

•OJ 

05 

;eo 

CO 

«0  <0  »o  C<  3i 


'co 


o 


Oi'O 

C0"(0 


"3 


K 


CO 


S2 

T-Hci 


00  lo 


CI 

CO 


o 


^  r>. »— I  a  (o 

l^  C«  OJ  o:  o 

•    «    •    •    ■ 

CO  -H 


CD  CO  CO  at  I  - 


§  OS  S  co'  <S 


eo 


"3 


C«Q0 

COCO 


ci 


ciesiTfi  t-  © 

ojc<  co«c  © 

ci  cj  o    ■  -H 


1^ 


CO 


I O     I     •     • 
I W5     ■     •     • 


CO 


■    .  o    •    • 


^11    Sg  :;j  :  : 

CO 


CO 

oi 


■  -^    ■  oot-» 

•CO    -OO 


U3 

CO 


t^    •    •    t    t    i 
00 


•CO 
'•O 


c<«c« 

<r  CO 


CI 


a 


g 


Tjicoujeo  I- 

i-H  ooco  o  -« 


l^  t—  ■^  ;0  1— 1 

00C«C0OC< 

_  •       •       •       • 

CI        CO        — 


C4  CO  u;  r^  f-4 
icSico  r 


Q0  00< 


ICO 


CO 


UO 


CO 


ClOiCJt^ 

c*'^  ooco 

•       •       •       ■ 

y*     eo 


c< 


00 

CO 


»o 


f-^     •  Tt<  CO  CO  «j  I  - 1>. 

I- 00     'COOrtCiNcO 


00 1^    -00    •    • 


^      I 


CO 


ie% 


ciff* 


0>  5     • 
COO     • 


c» 


ci    • 


t^co 

Ouo 


Cli 


8? 


^  "5     '  ©     ■     •  QD     -CO 
eoo    -N    •    •«    -TO 


OiiC     •  Cl  C1 1-1  CM  •♦     . 
CI  l^      ■  1-t  O  O  r-(  i      . 


i-iO 

CO  00 


CO 


Tf  lo  X  lo  ;»! 
«0  T»<  00  t-  •«»< 

'cico 


CIO 


CI 

OJ 

ci 


cic» 

0.-I 


•-ICI 


1-H 

CO 


*co 


00 


t^CO 


I-H  CI 


o 

CD 


CO 


Cll^ 

cici 


00 1^  oo»C' 
1-H  o5 1-1  c: 

dcici 


1-1  lo  O  ■«r  cc 
1-1  c4  ooci  r- 


g'>9<CO      lOO      ii-IGCCOiH 
II        0>0     -1-1     'OO^d 

00 


00 

CO 


r^t^oor-- 

Oeooo© 


CI        C»i-i 


OS 

CO 


CO 


05  CO  CI  X  — < 

00  «C  ^  CO  iC 
•      •      •      • 

CO         rt 


1-1  Oi    •  OJ  CO 


:$ 


•CI 


o>co 


UO 


9 


Cli-l»J 

eoi-ii- 


00 


Sci 


CI 


CD  OS     •  UOCI 


gC3S      -UOd      •      'laiO 

CI  t>-    •  »H  o    •    •  O  eo 


CI 

CD 


t^  CO     •  CI  O      .  CC>  M 
i^CO     -1-1 0     11-1  f-« 


-^-^  :gJ8  :  .S§ 


I>'<9< 


CO  1-4  1-1  OC 

CI  CO  r-  ■ 


cot^r^ 

CI 


J  ^2 


C3 


y.   pi  a 


83        ^ 

0 


«  03 

r  « 

•^   Co 

c9t>. 


CO 
eo 


CD  00    •  eo  CI    •  c-  CO' 

»Cl  00       -lO  O       -^  rJ 


CI 


I  CO  ■ 


OS  cOiO 

•     •     • 


i-<  1— ( -^ 


•■*c» 

■t^co 


S^^ 


CO 


■"^OS 

t^oo 


ooe5t^ 
cieo    * 


•  a> 

4     ll 


■  •      •    © 

«>  ■  o  • 
m  •  (4  0) 
ff  tn  o  O    'jj  Oi 

f^p  p  o  ^  S  ® 


0} 


a 
o 


OS 


o 
Eh 


I 


ga!a)«Ott;oWEH 


c8 

o 


s 
s 

X3 


s 


OS 


s 


s 


:.S 

:.& 
•xs 

Hi 


■>3 


o 


:  a 
. « 

p  d 

S  « 
■  •  ^  ^^      "• 

P  O  H     .  fe 

c2««  .2   .  r 
c5  o  3   ■  2 

.S  oQ  o  r-  as 


s 


OS 


i^eo 


CI 

o 


g 


eo 


eo 


CO 


eocico 

.-H-^  CO 


8 


ooo 


osio 

lOcO 


gcoeo 
«oco 


CD 


r-cico 


00  CI  CD 
OCDU5 


C<CO< 

eoco< 


»HTt<0 


u 
03 

-t-s 

3 
O 

■t-s 

pgis 


CI 


00 


s 

CI 

OS 


CI 


CI 

o 


s 

00 

OS 


8 


OS 

OS 


s 


OS 


oot^< 


OOi-l 


00 


CI 

o 


CI 


00  00 

00 


CI 


eo 


8 
3 


tn 


eo 


OS 


00 


CO 


8 


00 

00 


8 


« 


5  be  "  .2  'ffl 
"  ^  c9  ®  S 


CI 

r-i 
OS 


CI 


CI 

o 


00 


s 


00 


c« 


CI 

e 


CO 
ci 


OS 


S 


CI 


CI 

e 


8 


CO' 


i>o 


8 


CI 

C3 


1^ 
CI 


CI 


o 

OS 


CI 

OS 

§8 


CO 


CO 
OS 


J? 


U5 

CS 


CO 


OS 


o 
eo 


CO 


e 


s 

o 


S  ra  OT  t> 

•2x3  rt5 

llii 

|8.g2 


o 
tn 

o 

o 

be 


CO 

o 

o 


o 
(1 

S 

OS 


■S3 


CI 


g 


CI 


CO 
C3 


OS 


CI 

a 


o 


CI 


^ 


s 


CO 
«9 


i<i 


CD 
OO 


OS 


o 


CI 


CO 

CJS 


CO 
"3 


o 


CO 

00 


O 

a 

o 


p 

3 

T3 


§8 

O 

h4 


S8 
P 

3  P 


p  00  "^ 


«3 
o 

ft 

e! 


<!' 


:%f- 


16 


THE   HOSIEBY   IXDUSTKY. 


COST   AND  PROFIT  BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


77 


H 

pq 

Eh 
OS 

<} 
Oh 
H 

CC 

n 

m 

H 
H 

O 

O 

OQ 
OS 

O 
O 


fa 

o 
tf 
Ph 

fi 

H 

CD 

W 

fa 
o 

as 

I— I 

Q 
H 

M 

» 

fa 

CQ 

fa 
O 

00 
H 
O 

H 
O 

H 


CO 

n 

e5 


iOr4  A 


»o 


s 


S3 


S8 


:S 


""1 8  : 


lO       0»     ■  1-1 

"^      CO    •  «c 


•  eooOi-H 


3 


:§ 


'N 


00 


C4 

rp 


C>« 


GO      .©      -ff? 


w 


■N 


OTf 


S  :  : 


S 


:§ 


«o 


s 


S8S2 


s; 


8 


8  :^??S 


s 


•  o 


t^ ^    •    •CO 

1-4  00    •    •  ^ 


^ 


e* 


C«J 


OS 


i-(      oOr^ 


sr 


OS 


>o 


s  s 


s^ 


CO 


s      ^ 


§8 


1-1 

U3 


1—1 
Hi 


eo 


fe 


id 


o 

8 


g^ 


SS 


0!> 


o 

00 


lO 


8 


oi 


"91 


o> 
oi 


o»co«o 


s 


8 


s 


8 


is 

If 

•     • 

, 

rH 

o 


g 


N 


s 

9 


CO 

8 


S 
V 


w 


8 


woo 


eoiM 
00 1^ 


00  eo 
oie>< 


82 

00  e4 

e 


eo 


00 


a 


^ 


00 

eo 


o 


eo 


90> 

toeo 


eo 


eo 


to 

00 


% 


78 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


COST   AND  PROFIT  BY   ESTABLISIIMENIS. 


79 


a 

a 


00 
H 
S5 

W 

03 

HH 
•J 

n 

El 

m 

H 
OQ 

>^ 

oq" 

H 

OQ 

O 

H 
so 

OQ 

O 

oi 
o 

o 


5 

H 
<c 

s 

w 

O 
00 

H 

H 
O 

OQ 

O 

00 

O 

H 
5? 

O 
PL, 


CO 
» 

» 


3 

d 


d 


CO 


d 


d 


d 


d 


d 


o 


d 


00 

d 


o 


CO 

d 

5^; 


8 


>o 


s 

8 

O 

1 

8 

CO 

• 

8 

s 

d 

12: 

8 

I-H 

s 

M 


3 

c4 


oe 


c^ 


o> 


1^ 


<o 


8 


to 


8 
8 


eo 


CM 

O 


«o 
1^ 


C4 


8 


8 


U5 


c» 


OS 


CM 


«« 


CM 


«o 
eo 


CM 

05 


s 

^ 


03 


eo 


s 

OS 


CM 


<o« 
'cm 


CM( 


FHeo 


osS 

•-JCM 


CM 

»^ 

eo 


eo 


00 

eo 


CM 


OS 


1-Jeo 


CM 

eo 


CM 


CM 


<£> 


CM 

OS 


r-IOS 


CM 


CM 

«o 


"5 


CM 


Seo 
CMeo 


OS 


"0< 


"3 
CO 


^^ 


O 


i-^eo 


OO'* 
Oll^ 


»c 


t^oo 

CO  CM 


eo 


CM 
CM 


W5 


OS 
CO 


CM 


CO 


eo 


■"fO 


CM'"* 


•«J< 


I 


i 
2 


OS  b^rS 


•a   -S 


-i 

o 
o 

CO       . 


eo  >5  I-H  ic 


lO  i-H  IC  CC 

cOOScif  O 


eoeoci    '•-< 


CM  t-  eo  ^  CO 

oeot>.eo-^ 


CM 


eo 


St^eoCMO 
CMi-<  eo  « 

eOi-icM    ' 


t^  »  »0  "C  o 

CM    'eo    *<-< 


CM 

O 


00 


S8SS 


CM  go 

U30 


^eo 


5g^ 


eo 


"O  00  CO  OS  o 
t>- CO  i-l  "5  i-H 


8»-li-tO  06 
O  00  A  30 


•^ooeoQC  — 
i^  t>- 1^  S  — 1 

CM     'tP     ' 


s 


eo  OS « CO  a 
^»<  eoos»H  CO 


OS  OS  OS  CM  eo 
•-leoeocMCM 


CO 

eo 


CM 

'»< 

CM* 


•^  ooeo< 

»OCMCM( 


i-Hi-ieo 


eo 
«6 


CM  S  S  CM  « 


CO 


t^  OOQiC 


.-tC» 


OS  CM  CM  I-H  f. 
i-H  ■«»<  »0  CM  CM 


IS 

eo 


•-(  00  UO»-H  < 
OrlOSCM  ! 


C4^CM        rH 


CM 

00 


5 

o 


'*'  ^  ft  u  ■-•9 

b  o  «  «.fc:*3 


CS 

o 


I 


OS 


o 
eo 


CMI 


Wi-H 


ss 


8 


oo< 


1-10 
cet^ 


s?g 


U3 


« 

9  o  o 


e 
CO 


eo  00  OS  M-  CM  Tt< 
1~- 1-H  ■-*<  c  If;  f-i 


eoo 


:?? 


OOSt-OS  10  CM 
■^  f-H  O  iC  CM  CM 


CO 

I-H 

CO 


COOC 
^r  Tj-  iS 

"Osr-i 


eo 


«o  00  eo  t^  00 '* 

•^  O  O  TT  1-H  C>1 


05l>. 


OC"»t< 
OSi-t 


s^ 


»-t  t-»  ■^  »-i  o  r* 

t^  eo  1-H  CM  *  CM 


CM 


CO 


OS 


eo 


eoo 


t^OS 


OCMCO 


28Sfeg 


00 


eo 


eo 


ej  tt  go  CO  10  SM 

CO  o  00  eo  I-H  lo 


to 


eo 


^S3g§8% 


O  «  "-H  CM  O 

■-HOOO  — 


SSS2S«2 


03;  eot~-  sc  eo 

»0  O  1-<  Tf  «  Oi 


9 

CD   03 
on  «   - 


S  ®     ^« 


cot- 


eor- 


i>.cood 


•^  .-H 

OCC 


OS  l-t 


^1 

CM 


CM>Ci 

OSr-l 


CO 


r^CM 

CO  eo 


OS  CM 


CM 


1  rji  O 
l-fCO 


t-hO  CO 


eo»o 


CM 


■^i-HQ 

CO  CMeo 
'cm 


■CM«0 

■  eoeo 


'C^ 


^00 


tn 


.2^ 


.g-g-f  fee  So«« 


—  CO 


CM  eo  »c  CO 

^  I—  C  'V 


•-hOSCO 


^J  30  00  CM  1^ 

O  O  ■v  OS  t^ 


eo^H 


■8 


(DOOt- 

■«j<t^eo 


S 


CM 


00 


a>eo"5t:^ 

;-<->r  CMOOCM 

'    'c4eo 


s 


giflooo 
03—40 


»c 


—  OS  00"3< 


CM 


'T  cowir^- 
oooscMco 


t-tU5 


gj 


-hCM 

-HO 


-HOS00«-H 

O'O'V  o 


3CX03  0S 
rH  CO  CO  00 


eo 


CMcOiC 

c  ■*os 


-Hcew 

1H  |-I>C 


CO  CO  00 
•itOCM 


-r  CMOS 


iceot^ 

Oeof 


CO  cor- 


s 


CO 


CO 

eo 


§ 


s 


Oso^ 
U3t>.0 


CM  CM 

coeo 


oc 


s 


eo 


CO 


eo 


eo 


s 


00 
'J' 


00 

OS 


CO 


OS 


OS 


00 

CM 


10 

OS 


s 


eo 

CM 


§? 


lOi 


iCM 


ICO 


CO 


00 


OOt-l 

CMrH 

C9 


^  10 

001^ 


•OCM 


CM 


00 


s 


CJTt" 


00s 

1-H  «/i 


s?* 


OS 


CO 


•*os 

U5  00 


'CO 


c 

CC 


eo 
e 


eo 


CM 


CM 

0 


10 

eo 


»c 


CO 

Tf 


00 

e 


o 

I-H 

CO 


CO1 

Xi 


CM 


«c 


8 


s? 

06 

OS 


o 


OS 


OS 


eo 


CM* 


eo 


CM 


8 


X 


X 


CO 


XcO 

xeo 


X 


ICM 


10 


i 

be 


2  g  c  a-a 

3  ^  <9  w5 


I 

.g 


X 


s 


CO 

l-H 

a 


o 

«-H 

eo 

e 


-HOC 

cmS 


eo 
0 


OS 
X 


eo 
o 


Ost^ 

-H  -V 


;;?s 


cq 


X 

o 


COi-H 

1-1  eo 


CM 


U3t^ 
•<»>CM 


s 


X 

rH 

CO 


coeo 


CM 


coco 


OS 


CM 

O 


o 


W5 

X! 

C  d  ®  n 

S  »:  S  » 

<v 

-   <B 


oJ  O  i:;  S 

o  Stj 


CO 

g 


CO 

O 

0 


5 


cd 

o 


.S-o 


O 


OS 


I 


%m 


80 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


81 


! 


H 

00 

n 

OS 


< 

H 
OQ 

!>* 

n 
otT 

h3 
-•J 

OD 

H 
O 

a 

GO 

aT 

CQ 

O 

o 


o 

Ph 

Q 

<J 
H 

09 

55 

P4 

w 

o 

H 

HH 
Q 

H 

E 

o 

H 
CQ 

O 

CO 
H 
O 

H 
O 

» 


CO 

A 

< 

Eh 


o 


d 


o 

^25 


d 

S?5 


o 


d 
55 


CO 

o 


d 

5? 


d 


d 

55 


d 


6 


o 
55 


5 


8 


8 


o 

8 


S 


8 


8 


8 
8 


8 
8 


8 


8 


8 


o 


S 


00 


3 


« 


CO 
00 


CO 

1 


B 

OS 


as 

CO 


Si 


S8 

o 


S 


P4 


CO 


00 

CO 


o 


"3 


f2 


g 


00 


CO 


eooo 


eoes 


OS«3 

eoc>» 


3 


00 


S8 

o 


8 


CO 


00 

CO 


o 


e>i 


"5 


K 

^ 


O 


»o< 


CO 


;s 


cow 
t-00 

*eo 


J5« 


CO 


■Of" 


c4 


c4 


06  00 


i§CO 


<2 

CO 


« 


CO 


:s 


00 
CO 


N 


^ 


e<« 


CO 


t^  O  O  O  (>■ 


CO 


s 


-^l*-  ifS  00 
^  CO  •-<  ^ 


ss^gs 


CO 


•"IPO 


:8 


^S 


eo»H  C«       »-< 


QOWt^O'H 
COOifH  ^  O 

wi   '  ei     CO 


8 


-H  -v  »-l  3> 

CO  V  CO  t^ 


Cti-fw*        -H 


s 


(X 


■*«CO(»  o 

i-<0'^  "o  CO 


eoQuses  :o 
00  U5  'r  CO  -^ 

t£    '  ei     CO 


eo-«coff4 1» 
•   '04    •    • 


»o 


Tt<  eo  e«  5N  « 

CO  t»  «5  N  t>. 


SS^'-'^ 


•oco 


fH     e>4 


85S28J5 


N 


CO 


U3  ij" 


S« 


CO 


coco 


ss 


sg 


?2£S 


It* 

»00 


s 


8 


CO  t» 


en 


■a 


1 
1  = 


I 


s 


« 


5 


*^- 


-3 

O 

H 


2 


1  =  S     : 


08 


ICQ 


I 


»00     .»nON 


N^ioopeo-* 
eoocD  co«o»-i 


s 


C0O3  3C  oa>c>4 
eo  CO  O  -H  CO  t>» 


S8 


:S8 


S 


o 


on  COO) 


8 


CO»-l 


as 


;s 


"5 


s? 


c^»(jop 


^ 


28 


s; 


f— c 


g235S? 


e 


See- 


C8 

o 


-t-a 
en 


as  b  b  t-i 

— H     O    O    g 

^  oQ  M  p;  O  ti;  o  ca  E^ 


90 


CO  wS 


3S 
06    • 


cofi^ 


:^8 


^ 


CO-^  CD 

r^  1-1  "ft 


8n 

1-i  r^^ 


§5 


1-H  to 

at  ^ 


s 


gs^ 


»o 


«o 


a 


P4e>4iOt«00 


S!o8^S 


•       ■       • 


s 


eoO>>0 


sss 


8Sc3 


S! 


§85 


s 


8SS85S 


Sot'. 
$o> 


CO 


•      •       •       •       • 

rneoN 


N 


g 


>o 


8 


8 


"5 


Mi 


8 


^! 


e«<co 


s? 


00 


s 


s 
^ 


n 


CO 
CO 

8 


s 

^ 


3 
8 


8 


CI 


U 

s 


T3 

o 


S«5 

5  its  Mq 


t^ 


CO 


8 


S 


»o 


«o 


eo 


00 


8 


3S 


CO 
CO 


88 


8S^ 

c4 


c»0 


2S 


CO 


IJCO 
C3 


o 


8 


CO 

1-1 


t- 
c« 


g 


8 


t>- 

00 


^ 


R 


s 


o> 


S8 


^ 


CI 

cici 


ci«o 

»-4CS 

1-5  ci 


occi 


8 

ci 


o 
CO 


c3?2 
ci-i 


1-4  0» 


CO 


;18 

di-5 


CI 


t^ 

CO 


CO 

i6 


8 

ci 

<3 


O 
CO 


00 


^ 

CO 


CO 

00 


CO 


CI 

00 


00 


o 


73 

08 


I 


ll 


5     *^-S    "9 


Qi 


o 
Eh 


CO 

o 

o 


ooes**— 15- 


-i^^ 


82 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


83 


COST  BASED  ON  MANTIFACTURING  AND  SELLING  EXPENSE. 

The  preceding  tables  in  this  chapter  of  the  report  show  the  per- 
centages of  the  items  of  cost  and  the  percentages  of  profit  based  on 
net  sales.  The  percentages  of  the  items  of  cost,  if  baaed  on  the  total 
of  the  cost  of  goods  manufactured  and  the  selling  expense,  are  differ- 
ent from  what  they  are  if  based  on  net  sales. 

If  based  on  the  net  sales,  the  item  of  profit  is  a  part  of  the  divisor, 
and  in  that  case  the  percentage  of  each  item  of  cost  is  smaller  than 
when  the  computation  is  based  on  the  cost  of  manufacturing  and  sell- 
ing. When  there  is  a  loss,  the  divisor  is  correspondingly  smaller  and 
the  quotient  in  each  case  is  larger. 

Furthermore,  the  amount  of  goods  manufactured  during  a  business 
year  may  be  greater  or  less  than  the  amount  of  net  sales.  Comparison 
of  the  inventory  of  finished  goods  on  hand  at  the  end  of  a  business  year 
with  the  inventory  at  the  beginning  (►f  the  year  may  show  a  smaller 
amount  on  hand  at  the  end  of  the  year,  in  which  case  the  quantity  (►f  the 
goods  sold  during  the  year  would  hav(^  been  greater  than  the  quantity 
manufactured  and  purchased.  If  th(^  closing  inventory  were  greater 
than  the  opening  inventory,  the  quantity  of  goods  sold  during  the  year 
would  have  been  less  than  the  quantity  manufactured  and  purchased. 

In  the  series  of  tables  which  follow  the  percentages  of  the  items  of 
cost  are  based  on  the  total  manufacturing  and  seUirig  expense — that 
is,  on  the  total  cost  of  the  product  and  selling  expense  of  the  factory 
during  the  year — and  not  on  the  amount  of  sales. 

Table  38  gives  the  percentage  of  items  of  cost,  by  divisions  and  sub- 
divisions, based  on  the  total  manufacturuig  and  selling  expense.  It 
shows  the  data  for  all  establishments  reporting  (Group  I  to  VII)  for 
mills  making  seamless  hosiery  (Groups  II  to  VII),  and  for  mills  which 
buy  their  yams  and  make  seamless  hosiery  (Grou])s  II  to  VI).  In 
Table  39  the  data  are  given  separately  for  each  Group  I  to  VII. 

Comparing  the  data  for  Group  I,  Table  39,  showing  the  percent- 
ages of  the  items  of  cost  of  the  j>roduct  in  mills  making  full- 
fashioned  hosiery,  with  the  data  for  groups  II  to  VI,  Tablo  38, 
showing  such  percentages  for  mills  buying  aU  yarns  and  making 
seamless  hosiery,  it  will  be  seen  that  in  Group  I  the  percentage  of 
direct  labor  was  considerably  larger  and  the  percentage  of  in(urect 
labor  also  was  larger,  while  the  percentages  for  materitds,  factory 
expense,  administrative  expense,  and  selling  expense  were  smaller. 

Comparing  the  data  for  Group  VII,  Table  39,  showing  the  per- 
centages of  the  items  of  cost  of  the  product  in  miUs  spinning  all 
or  part  of  their  yams  and  making  scmmless  hosiery,  witn  the  data 
for  Groups  II  to  VI,  Table  38,  showing  percentages  for  mills  buy- 
ing all  yams  and  making  seamless  hosiery,  it  will  be  seen  that  in 
Group  VII  the  percentages  for  direct  labor,  indirect  labor,  factory 
expense,  and  seUing  expense  are  somewhat  larger.  In  Group  VII 
the  percentage  for  material  is  considerably  smalL^r,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  the  materials  are  cotton  and  wool  instead  of  yams.  In 
Group  VII  the  percentage  for  the  administrative  expenses  is  slightly 
lower. 

Group  II  is  composed  of  16  miUs  making  seamless  cotton  hosiery, 
15  in  Pennsylvania  and  1  in  New  York;  Group  III,  of  16  mills  mak- 
ing seamless  cotton  hosiery,  6  in  Georgia,  4  in  North  Carolina,  3  in 
Maryland,  and  1  each  in  South  Carolina,  Tennessee,  and  Missouri. 


Comparing  the  data  for  these  two  groups,  it  wiU  be  seen  that  in 
Group  II  the  percentages  for  direct  labor,  indirect  labor,  factory  ex- 
pense, and  selling  expense  are  higher,  and  the  percentages  for  mate- 
rials and  administrative  expense  are  lower. 

Table  38. — Percentages  of  Specified  Items  of  Expense,  Based  on  the  Total 
Manufacturing  and  Selling  Expense,  by  Combinations  of  Groups  of  Estab- 
lishments. 


Items. 


Number  of  establishments 

Cost  of  materials,  maniifacturing,  and  selling 
Raw  material 


Direct  labor: 

Wages 

Paid  to  contractors . 


All  estab- 
lishments 
reporting 
data,  Groups 
I  to  VII. 


7S 


100.00 


52,82 


Total. 


Indirect  labw: 

Salaries  of  officials. 
Wages 


Total. 


Factory  exi)ense: 

Power,  heat,  light 

Repairs , 

Depreciation 

Fire  insurance 

Other  factory  expense. 


Total. 


Administrative  expense: 

Salaries  of  officials 

Salaries  of  office  force 

Rent,  general  office 

Office  expense 

Insurance,  except  fire 

Collection  expense 

Bad  debts 

Taxes 

Other  administraiive  expenses. 


Total. 


Selling  expense: 

Salaries  of  officials , 

Commission  and  expense , 

Wages , 

Rent^  show  and  shipping  rooms. 

Fire  msurance , 

Packing  cases,  etc , 

Cartage  and  freight  outward 

Advertising 

Other  selling  exp&iae , 


Total. 


24.60 
.13 


24.73 


.78 
3.60 


4.38 


Mills  mak- 
ing seamless 
hosiery, 
Groups 

iitovn 


64 


100.00 


53.47 


22.64 
.05 


22.69 


.81 
3.56 


4.37 


1.42 
.72 

2.20 
.20 
.93 


5.47 


(») 


.95 
.90 

.29 
.07 
.07 
.31 
.33 
.28 


3.20 


.39 
4.78 
.50 
.06 
.06 
.46 
.76 
1.84 
.55 


9.40 


1.59 
.73 

2.17 
.21 
.90 


Mills  buy- 
ing all  yams 
and  making 
seamless  ho- 
siery. Groups 
II  to  VI 


56 


100.00 


55.15 


21.76 
.07 


21.83 


.88 
3.03 


3.91 


5.60 


(«) 


1.04 
1.04 

.33 

.07 
.07 
.40 
.32 
.27 


3.54 


.41 

5.06 
.41 
.08 
.07 
.47 
.95 

2.22 
.66 


10.33 


1.30 
.72 

2.40 
.23 
.69 


5.34 


(«) 


1.17 

1.05 

.31 
.07 
09 
.39 
.24 
.27 


3.50 


.42 

4.33 
.38 
.10 
.08 
.44 
1.15 
2.60 
.68 


10.18 


a  Less  than  one  one-hundredth  of  1  per  cent. 

Group  IV  is  composed  of  11  mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of 
cotton  and  silk  mixed,  all  in  Pennsylvania;  Group  V,  of  9  mills 
making  seamless  hosien^  of  cotton  and  silk  mixed,  4  in  Wisconsin, 
'5  m  Ohio,  and  2  in  Illinois.  Comparing  the  data  for  these  two 
groups,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  principal  differences  in  percentages 
are  for  materials  and  selling  expense.     In  Group  V  the  percentage 


if 


I 


84 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


COST   AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


85 


for  selling  expense  is  extraordinarily  large,  owing  to  the  very  larger 
percentage  for  advertising.  This  accounts  for  the  much  lower  per- 
centages for  materials  and  direct  labor  in  Group  V  because,  if  the 
percentages  for  certain  items  are  unusually  high,  the  percentag(»s  for 
other  items  must  be  correspondingly  low,  as  100  is  tne  total  of  all. 
In  Group  IV  the  percentage  for  indirect  labor  is  somewhat  higher 
and  the  percentages  for  factory  expense  and  administrative  expense 
are  shghtly  lower. 

Table  39. — Percentages  op  Specified  Items  op  Expense,  Ba^ed  on  the  Total 
Manufacturing  and  Selling  Expense,  by  Groups  op  Establishments. 


Establishments  buying  all  yams  and  makmg— 

Establish- 

Items. 

Full-fash- 
ioned or 
both  full- 
fashioned 
and  seam- 
less ho- 
siery (East 
and  West), 
Group  1. 

Seamless 
cotton 
hosiery 
(Pennsyl- 
vania and 
New 
York), 
Group  II. 

Seamless 

cotton 

hosiery 

(South), 

Group  III. 

Seamless 

cotton  and 
silk  ho- 
siery 

(Pennsyl- 
vania), 

Group  IV. 

Seamless 
cotton  and 

silkh(k 
siery 

(West), 
Group  V. 

Seamless 

wool  and 

cotton 

hosiery 

(EfKSt, 

West ,  and 

South), 

Group  VI. 

ments 

spinning 

yams  anr] 

making 

seamless 

hosiery 

(East  and 

West), 

Group  VII. 

Number    of    establish- 
ments   

9 

16 

16 

11 

9 

4 

8 

Cost  of  materials,  manu- 
facturing, and  selling. . . 

100.00 

100.00 

100. 00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.  iO 

100.00 

Raw  material 

51.35 

52.99 

58.52 

51.89 

46.85 

70.25 

47.51 

Direct  labor: 

Wages 

29.04 
.31 

25.11 
.17 

21.22 

26.78 
.18 

17.76 

15.68 

25.75 

Paid  to  contractors. . . 

Total 

29.35 

25.28 

21.22 

26.96 

17.76 

15.68 

25.75 

Indirect  labor: 

Salaries  of  officials 

Waces 

.71 
3.70 

1.24 
2.93 

.61 
3.54 

1.13 
4.03 

.93 
2.41 

.45 
1.22 

.57 
5.44 

Total 

4.41 

4.17 

4.15 

5.16 

3.33 

1.67 

6.01 

Factory  expense: 

Power,  heat,  light. . . 
Renairs    

1.04 
.72 

2.25 
.16 

1.00 

1.33 
.95 

2.94 
.34 

.72 

1.34 
.54 

2.78 
.19 

.95 

1.05 
.73 

2.03 
.24 

.63 

1.60 
.90 

1.67 
.10 

.33 

1.05 
.46 

2.36 
.23 

.66 

2.63 
.75 

Depreciation 

Fire  insurance 

other    factory    ex- 
pense  

1.37 
.14 

i.ai 

Total 

5.17 

6.28 

5.  HO 

4.68 

4.60 

4.76 

6.52 

Administrative  expense: 
Salaries  of  officials. . . 
Salaries  of  office  force. 

.77 
.58 

1.10 
.84 

1.24 
1.02 

.08 

1.74 
.92 

.71 

.91 
.65 

.58 
1.00 

Office  expense 

Insurance,  except  fire 
Collection  expense. . . 
Bad  debts 

.'22' 

.08 
.05 
.09 
.35 

.29 

.31 
.02 
.05 
.35 
.16 

.21 

.32 
.05 
.25 
.28 
.10 

.20 

.72 
.12 

.14 
.03 
.08 
.05 
.41 

.25 

.39 
.05 
.00 

.48 
.17 

.47 

.46 

Taxes 

.58 

Other  administrative 
expense 

.26 

_^ 

Total 

2.43 

3.04 

3.57 

3.86 

4.61 

2.52 

3.34 

- 

Selling  expense: 

Salaries  of  officials 

Commission  and  ex- 
pense  

.34 

4.16 
.69 

.02 
.03 
.43 

.35 
.97 
.30 

.68 

5.07 
.44 

.14 

3.38 
.09 

.32 
.08 

.07 

1.34 
.89 
.43 

.64 

4.17 
.29 

.ee 

6.40 
.86 

.03 

2.22 
.32 

.37 

7.« 

"^  ages 

.51 

Rent,  show  and  ship- 
ping rooms 

Fire  insurance 

Packing  cases,  etc — 

Cartage  and  freight 
outward 

.07 
.78 

.60 
.53 

.07 

.09 
.44 

.63 

1.13 

.06 

.09 
.53 

1.04 

10.15 

2.57 

.03 
.71 

1.64 
.03 
.14 

.05 
.56 

.32 

Advertising  

.«7 

Other  selling  expense 

.61 

Total 

7.29 

8.24 

6.74 

7.45 

22.86 

5. 12  1            10. 87 

' 

■          — • 

a  Less  than  one  one-hundredth  of  \  per  cent. 


Group  VI  is  composed  of  4  mills  making  seamless  hosiery  of 
cotton  and  wool  mixed,  2  in  Illinois  and  1  each  in  Pennsylvania 
and  Maryland;  Group  VII  is  composed  of  8  mills  that  spin  aU  or 
some  of  their  yams  and  make  seamless  hosiery,  mostly  of  wool  and 
cotton  mixtures,  4  in  New  Hanipshire  and  1  each  in  Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin.  Comparing  the  data  for 
these  two  groups,  it  will  be  seen  that  in  Group  VII  the  percentages 
for  direct  labor  and  indirect  labor  are  considerably  larger,  while  the 
percentage  for  materials  is  much  smaller.  This  is  because  the  mate- 
rials used  by  the  mills  in  Group  VII  are  largely  cotton  and  wool 
instead  of  yams,  and  the  labor  m  these  mills  includes  the  labor  for 
spinning,  as  well  as  for  knitting.  In  Group  VII  the  percentage  for 
selling  expense  is  considerably  larger,  owing  to  a  comparatively  high 
percent*age  for  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen.  In 
Group  VII  the  percentages  for  factory  expense  and  administrative 
expense  are  somewhat  higher. 

FACTORS  m  STTCCESSFITL  MANUFACTXTBINQ. 

Success  in  the  hosiery  industry  depends  largely  upon  the  good 
judgment  of  the  manufacturer  in  ouying  cotton,  wool,  cotton 
yarns,  woolen  yams,  or  silk  yr  ns.  To  some  extent  luck  also  is  a 
factor,  because  materials  are  often  bought  far  in  advance  of  the 
manufacture  of  the  product  and  the  delivery  of  the  finished  goods, 
and  meanwhile  the  market  prices  for  the  materials  may  considerably 
fluctuate.  Other  factors  of  success  are  the  possession  of  sufficient 
capital,  modern  equipment,  efficient  factory  management,  and  effi- 
cient selling  methods.  It  is  practically  impossible  to  trace  statisti- 
cally the  effect  of  each  of  these  reasons  for  successful  business,  but  a 
study  of  the  percentages  of  the  items  of  cost  of  the  product,  based 
on  the  net  sales,  will,  at  least  to  some  extent,  indicate  whether  the 
general  management  of  an  estabhshment  is  efficient. 

For  good  reasons  an  establishment  may  have  larger  proportionate 
expense  than  the  average  for  materials,  direct  labor,  and  indirect 
labor.  This  is  somewhat  dependent  on  the  quality  of  the  goods 
that  the  estabhshment  produces.  Many  estabhshments  have  found 
it  profitable  to  spend  more  than  the  average  for  selling;  that  is,  to 
pay  higher  salaries  or  commissions  to  salesmen  of  unusual  ability. 
The  same  ratio  of  expenditure  for  aU  items  will  not  be  found  in  any 
two  knitting  mills,  but  if  the  percentages  for  many  items  are  much 
greater  than  the  average  of  similar  estabhshments,  the  profit  will 
be  smaller  or  there  will  be  a  loss.  The  lower  the  percentage  of  total 
cost  is  kept  the  greater  will  be  the  proportion  of  profit,  and  a  study 
of  the  various  items  of  expenditure  by  any  estabhshment,  as  com- 
pared with  those  of  other  estabhshments  or  with  the  average,  will, 
m  a  measure,  show  how  efficient  is  the  management. 

ESTABLISHMENTS  WITH  HIGHEST  PEBCENTAQES  OF  PROFIT. 

Among  the  73  estabhshments  that  reported  data  there  were  large 
variations  in  the  percentages  of  cost  of  production  and  the  percent- 
ages of  profit.  Of  the  73  establishments,  11  made  a  manufacturing 
profit  of  over  10  per  cent  on  net  sales  and  18  did  business  at  a  loss. 
The  percentages  of  expenditure  by  the  11  establishments,  based  on 
the  total  manufacturing  and  selling  expense,  appear  in  Table  40. 


41 


86 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST   AND   PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


87 


1     SD 

^  ^ 

%o 

S| 

<  < 

rjl 

O  „ 

S5  S 

CO 

JENT8 
MENT 

U  » 

ESTABLISI 
ESTABLIS 

2:^ 

is 

» 

tH     05 

H-l   H 

PECIP 
RCEN 

02  W 

^P^ 

tf 

o  u 

P^  H 

CQ   "^ 

ExPEN 
PARED 

Data. 

^o  2 

s6  2 

a   .g 

•-3  00  (4 

W  W  O 

OQ  1^  &4 

^  -<J  W 

§f« 

^  &  ® 

W    Eh 

o;z;  'A 

^      w 

upacturi 
Over  on 
tablishm 

^    ^    CO 

^  gw 

^S^ 

h5  &   "J 

:^  ^  <j 

Eh  W  _ 

O  o  5z; 

^«: 

^  5)  ^ 

Eh  O  W 

:z;  ^  u 

w  a  « 

O  |s<    li] 

P5  OPh 

H  « 

pHflH    W 

O  55  ^ 

^Sq 

W  fca  !5 

H    H  <5 

n 

-< 

f-l 

te^  -^  —  t-t 

2  ®~i2  ft 
^HS  So 


""Si: 


1-1 

6 


o 

J 


» 


00 

d 


o 


d 


o 


S  9.2  £  o 


®  S  25  «i  o 


•a  tH 


'o: 


8 


a 
B 


3 

a 

I 


8 

(J 


»Ht>. 


00 

S5 


«3 


SS 


Oco 


CO 


1-1  ©» 


«-to 


eo 


^ 


o 


00 


S 


o> 


O 
CO 


o> 


S2 


M 


'CO 


CO 


% 


CO'O'^'^N 

coososeot>» 

•        ■        •       •       • 


cocoSSk      o 


<o 


•V  C><  us  CO  O 


rHCC^tOOO 
QC  •VOi>-<  00 


tC 


rHOO 


l>.00 


:s 


ss 


0»N 
CCS" 


leo 


JcwS^S 


«c 


■  CO 


CO 


CIO 
CO 


COO'*  ^H  CO 
»-leO«C«rH 


•  Nt^    I 

•«eo    • 

.      eo    • 

00 


c^ 


§5 


c<« 


t».  CO 

1-1 1>. 


s 


to 


t^i-H 


co»o 


SSJ^^ 


loeo 


CD 


C<l 


28 


?J§§g 


CON 


00  t^^ 


t^eo 


lO 


l^00< 


>cot^ 
>«oo 


CM 


00 


OtOOO     •     • 

T-lt^CO         •         • 


CO 


(N 


%  :S§ 


S'2 


*s§ 


?5J:; 


Cfc      •      •  i-H 

i~»    •    •  o 


n 


s 


•^tOCKNeoeoiCb-o 
eoi-i<©oO'^cooJco 


OSCJtH 

WOOi-H 

•      •      • 

eo 


•  i-HOOCO     •     • 

•  Oi-i-^     •     • 


s 


;o 


CO 


05  *     5t  o  o  CO 


CO  00 

cO(N 


.a 


I 


I 

g 


I 

fee 

:i|8 

I 


S2  :SJ::S  :  : 

•     ••■••** 


coc<>    • 


8 


00 


h 


>f5 


tO 


CO  ^ 


:  :^ 


CO 


cot^»noO'*t^oo»rt 


S3 


CO 


S 


8 


s 


CO 


®*2 

®  ?  (S  S-"  as 
Co  ®  ®43+3 

I 


:  A 


g  o  o  fe  g  \<si  : 


o 


2^ 


g 
a 

•a 

OS 


o 

Eh 


a 

. « 

C  o3  ©  S 
-  e3^+^ 


I 


88 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


COST   AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


89 


H 


t3 

12: 

< 


> 
< 

W 

OS 
H    CO 


H 


U  PQ 


PQ 


OS 


CO 
E-1 


o 

Eh 

H   H   CD 

ccg3 

H    I 


O 


W  <!  O 

Ph  (^  ^ 
Mag 

O     ^  Pk 
iz;  CO  H 

•J    ^    nn 


OQ 


CO  H 


Eh 


o 


;z; 

CD 


5o 


00 


H 
O 

H 
o 


Cm 


^   -  -< 

-•  « 
o 

<  t:  ^ 

Eh    S  H 

^  o 


^ 


OQ_i 


Ph 


o 

PQ 
< 


S2 


©00X1  a  1^ 


g 


I 


■3  2  2 


o 

5z; 


s 


S  2  o 


'6 


d 


.as 


6 


6 


pa 

©M 

P4 


§s 


6 


5 


8 


8 


8 
8 


8 
8 


8 

8 


8 
8 


»o 


•o 


s 


to 


§§ 


«o 


»o 


^ 


s 


e^ 


S 


S 


fS2 


00 

« 

C4 


00 


^ 


c^ 


5^1 


^ 


00 


S^ 


C4 


^ 


'l^ 


•O- 


>o 


C4 


^ 


o 
<6 


CO 


S»C  t>-  ^  M        N 


SSooScO 


2S 


s$ 


t-iiO 


«iS 


CO 


<OdE«o<-iro 


rH?ooJt>.«o 

CO  Wi-I 


lOC^ 


eo 


S8 


8^ 


CO 


•       •       •       •       • 


•     •      •      •      • 


■o 


«>f-l 


00  si 


rt  M 


So 
e>4 


^ 


'eoi-Hi-4 


^:s 


»-t       C4 


oooato 


S 


lO 


«     •     •     •     • 


^  O)  ^  ^  ^H 


c<»  ^00 


w 


>o 


c5 


C'^ 


ooa 

i-lOO 


."tg 


»HO 


a§SS8 


*2 


5S8S 


«f  00 


$2 


sssgi 


CD 


PlkOUOOO 


oo 

r-l<M 


S8S$ 


2S 


C0<©«0     'OiOC^IOOCO 


00 


s 


fco 


.  rf  OS  .-I  C^  O 


te ^ 00    •o'Otoi-im 


O5r>-«o 


»o 


.>oao«ot-C3 

1  O  tO  tO  O  '^ 


eo 


•   •       •   • 


s 


2^ 


i-a 


I 


8 


S 


an 


58 


eo 


!i 


)  5  o  „•  B  « 

a,  o  o  S  H  e  ^ 
•K  o  o  fl  R< 


S^S 


c* 


■<t>t^o>    •©■^eoeoo 


"2 

CO 


(M 


«o 


1-^  lO 

i<-ieo 


.-it^ 


•  i-H  eo  t^  o> 


eo 


eo 


t^3s     •      -M  •^  O     'CO 

•^eo    •    •    '    *»-5    < 


»HMOco25oeooo-* 


CO 


S 


eo 


■g     -C  r  -r^  . .-  OB  n  e  "O 


oi    ■    -eo 


a 


00 


eo 


9> 


0^ 


PI 


a 
S 

© 


OS 
OS 


"-I   •  'Pi? 

»0     •     "Ol  OS 


c< 


I 


'■       !    "H 

©'    !  bo 

■  P< 

:  a 


o 


I 


o 


OT  V-i 

fl  o 

M<© 

®  fe 

I 


r^ 

«0 

o 

t^ 

rl 

■* 

§5 

eo 


^  : 


© 


:^8 


as  ^-9 


©    OC 


;  © 

•  to 

§2  fl-9 

.S  bci-i  t. 


«§ 


be 

a 


« 
o 
■-I 


i 
§ 

d 

o 


I' 


» 


I 


1  n 


o 


© 

1 


90 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


91 


It  will  be  observed  that  the  1 1  est  ablishments  which  had  a  manu- 
facturing profit  of  10  per  cent  or  more  included  one  or  more  establish- 
ments m  each  of  the  seven  groups,  (except  Group  VI,  composed  of  4 
mills  knitting  seamless  cotton  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixtures 
located  m  the  East,  West,  and  South.  ' 

Four  of  these  1 1  establishments,  Nos.  1,2,6,  and  8,  were  in  Group  I 
composed  of  9  mills  m  the  East  and  West  knitting  full-fashioned  hose' 
or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hose,  made  of  silk  or  silk  and 
cotton  mixed. 

One  establishment.  No.  19,  was  in  Group  II,  composed  of  16  miUs 
1 5  m  Pennsylvania  and  1  m  New  York ,  makmg  seamless  cotton  hosiery' 

Two  establishments,  Nos.  33  and  89,  were  in  Group  III,  composed 
01  lb  mills  m  the  vSouth  making  seamless  cotton  hosiery 

Two  establishments,  Nos.  42  and  51,  were  in  Group  IV,  composed 
01  11  mills,  all  m  Pennsylvania,  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton 
and  silk  mixed. 

One  establishment.  No.  61,  was  m  (Jroup  V,  composed  of  9  mills,  all 
m  the  West,  makmg  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  mixed 

One  establishment,  No.  72,  was  in  Group  VII,  composed  of  8  raUls 
m  the  East  and  West,  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  wool 
mixed. 

Of  the  11  establishments  with  a  manufacturing  profit  of  over  10 
per  cent,  shown  in  the  table,  the  percentages  for  materials  of  5  were 
less  than  those  of  their  respective  groups  and  those  of  5  were  less  than 
the  general  averages  of  the  73  establislunents  reporting. 

The  percentage  of  establishment  No.  2  was  about  16  per  cent  more 
than  the  average  for  Group  I  and  about  15  per  cent  more  than  the 
average  for  aU  establishments  reporting  (Groups  I  to  VII)  This  is 
because  the  materials  used  hj  this  establishment  were  silk  The 
percentage  for  material  being  high,  necessarUy  reduces  the  percentages 
for  other  items  of  cost  and  largely  accounts  for  the  low  percentage 
of  the  cost  of  direct  labor.  This  will  be  better  understood,  perhaps 
by  a  simple  lUustration.  Suppose,  for  instance,  that  the  cost  of 
materials  are  50  per  cent  of  the  total  cost  of  goods  manufactured  the 
labor  cost  20  per  cent,  and  all  other  costs  30  per  cent:  but  if  the  estab- 
lishment uses  expensive  materials,  makmg  the  cost  of  matarials  60 
per  cent  then  if  the  relation  between  labor  and  other  costs  than  for 
materials  should  remam  unchanged,  the  labor  cost  would  be  reduced 
from  20  to  16  per  cent  and  the  cost  for  other  items  than  for  mate- 
rials would  be  reduced  from  30  to  24  ])er  cent. 

PBOHTS  NOT  DEPENDENT  ON  LOW  LABOB  COST. 

Of  the  11  establishments  with  a  manufacturing  profit  of  over  10 
per  cent,  the  percentages  for  direct  labor  of  4  were  Lpss  than  those  of 
their  respective  groups  and  those  of  4  were  less  than  the  general 
average. 

The  percentage  for  direct  labor  vari(^d  from  17.94  (No.  61)  to  37  71 
(No.  42).  It  does  not  foUow  that  because  an  establishment  had  a 
•/?  JiP^^P^^^i^^  ^^  expenditure  for  labor  than  other  establishments 
It  had  less  profits.  This  is  strikingly  shown  by  establishment  No  42 
whose  percentage  for  labor,  37.71,  was  considerably  higher  than'thc' 
percentage,  26.96,  for  Group  IV,  to  which  it  belongs,  or  to  the  per- 
centage, 24.73,  for  all  establishments  reporting  (Groups  I  to  VII) 


and  yet  of  all  of  the  73  establishments  it  had  the  third  highest  manu- 
facturing profit,  15.12  per  cent  on  its  net  sales. 

The  low  percentage,  17.94,  of  establishment  No.  61  for  direct 
labor  is  largely  accounted  for  by  this  establishment's  unusually  high 
percentage,  25.89,  for  selling  expense,  which  was  due  mostly  to  the 
exceptionally  high  percentage  for  advertising,  14.07.  As  tne  total 
is  100  per  cent,  if  one  percentage  is  unusually  high  some  other  per- 
centage must  necessarily  be  correspondingly  lower. 

It  should  not  be  assumed  that  an  establishment  whose  proportion 
of  expenditure  for  labor  was  lower  than  that  of  other  establishments 
paid  less  to  its  employees  than  did  the  others.  On  the  contrary,  the 
earnings  of  individual  employees  might  even  b(^  greater  in  the  estab- 
lishment with  a  low  percentage  of  labor  cost,  because  of  several 
reasons — (a)  the  fact  that  the  employees  were  more  skilled  than 
ordinary  employees;  (b)  better  superintendence  or  superior  shop 
arrangements  enabled  them  to  turn  out  a  larger  product  per  worker 
than  could  be  done  by  workers  in  factories  less  efficiently  managed; 

(c)  more  expensive  materials  were  used  in  the  goods  manufactured; 

(d)  overheaa  expenses  were  relatively  high. 

Of  the  11  establishments  with  a  manufacturing  profit  of  over  10 
per  cent,  the  percentages  for  indirect  labor  of  7  were  less  than  those 
of  their  respective  groups  and  those  of  7  were  less  than  the  general 
average. 

The  percentages  for  factory  expense  of  8  establishments  were  less 
than  those  of  their  respectiye  groups,  and  those  of  8  were  less  than 
thegeneral  average. 

The  percentages  for  administrative  expense  of  7  establishments 
were  less  than  those  of  their  respective  groups  and  those  of  6  were 
less  than  the  general  average. 

The  percentages  for  sellmg  expense  of  5  establishments  were  less 
than  those  of  their  respective  groups  and  those  of  7  were  less  than  the 
general  average. 

ESTABLISHMENTS  OPEEATINQ  AT  A  LOSS. 

The  data  regarding  the  18  establishments  that  did  business  at  a 
loss  appear  in  Table  41. 


» 


I 


I 


92 


THE   HOSIERY   TKDUSTJIY 


COST   AND  PROFIT   BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


93 


^    OQ 

s  o 
W  w 

CO   ^ 

3S 


^ 


JO 

Pi  >A 
o  n 

H 
WW 


OQ 

Q 
5? 


H  Q 

^  W 

■<  P5     . 

&  -^  -< 

g  Pt,   Eh 

H?  00  5? 
-<  W  C 
f^  "J  « 

EHCQg 

fe  is  « 

ta        OQ 

0  525  H 
2  O  ^ 

S  s  a 

W§  W 

^  E^ 

1  (t;  00 

r-;  t^W 

W  <  »J 
►J  fe  -< 

n 

el 


Average 
.  of  the  16 
establish- 
ments in 
Group 
III. 

8 

§5  ; 

12 

5«S 

^3 

oooftira 
t^rHOft 

8 

^s 

^§  :2 

8 

1-1 

2§ 

1-1  • 

CO 

■* 

r-i     "n     '      ' 

uj 

« 

U 

S 

»-4 
OC 

• 

S  : 

S8 

■OS 

CO 

^JJSSS 

"s 

SS83S  1:3 

. 

• 

o 

8 

Hi 

S  : 

1^ 

•»c 

«o 

cirHwi     •     • 

oi 

t-H 

t-i 

z 

i-i 

: 

i 

• 

^ 

S 

©O 

8 

P^SSSgS 

I-t 
eo 

S2  :: 

-^    *    •    « 

o 

6 

8 

R 

o    • 
I-t    • 

o 

« 

t^ 

'    'oi   'i-5 

« 

ei    ■ 

^ 

^ 

n 

a 
« 
a 

^ 

^ 

8 

00    • 

S 

?^ 

OC 

t^C>J00$O 

?i 

%  :  :< 

$  i  :  ! 

6 

8 

U5 

iQ 

'■? 

tO 

eo     I-I 

CO 

49 

Z 

S 

CO 

$ 

^ 

8 

s 

1-1    •     1-1 

OS 

■♦ 

5 

^^^S3 

8  :  : 

• 

1 

8 

u» 

«c 

cii-i  ui 

s 

i«i    !    ! 

Average 

.  of  the  16 

establish 

ments  in 

Group 

II. 

8 
8 

Si:  a 

^3 

1—1 

eoososeot^ 

SS  is 

l-H      '       I 

•     •     •     • 

S3 

8 

■4 

§^g 

$ 

ooeooo5D 
t^  eoi^eo 

s 

88  i§ 

5  :  :?=; 

• 

O 

8 

S  :    t 

5 

•M 

rH 

•"Ji^eo    '"^ 

« 

1^1^ 

•     •     •     • 

l-H 
t-t 

^ 

1.H 

v^ 

g 

CSJ 

8 

s 

gS  :    ? 

5 

s 

S 

C>»CSt>.T-iO 

»ceo<©?Z^ 

SS  :i: 

2 

i 

8 

"3 

§  :    g 

§ 

rH<« 

« 

«eo    ' 

t^ 

•      •     .     • 

00 

CD 

• 

8 

s 

at    '•      c 
GO    •      2 

.    1 

0 

5§ 

^ 

SsSSS^ 

pos    !- 
r^ eo    -^ 

!§  i  i 

d 

8 

oH      •         r 
CM      .        C 

'4 

^C« 

eo 

eo      ^ 

CO 

9 

•a 

1 

w 

^ 

% 

•^ 

• 
1-4 

• 

8 
8 

i-H 

o 

00    •      0 

&i  :   S 

0 

5 

"5 

■    'eo    "    • 

S5g  :3i 

f-H 

•      •      « 

m 

1-1 

8 

8 

• 

05      .         C 

3 
6 

ooe<s 

i-i 

Oft 

■*c»osooeo 

8 

S  :  :^ 

I    !r* 

• 

8 

g§  :    § 

^ 

1-HN 

eo 

«o 

00 

•     ■     •    i 

•    •    • 

^ 

Average 
of  the  9 
establish- 
ments in 
Group 

8 

8 

i-H 

• 

Oeo      e« 

ca    '      a 

I 

ft 
1 

1-1 

SS^28 

"-5    'e4    *i-5 

I-H 

•     •     •    • 

§88 

•     •     • 

Estab- 

"  lishment 

in 

Group  I, 

No.  6. 

8 
8 

1 
> 

1 
1 

<©1-< 

• 

•-"eooSce 
^    "id    •    • 

-^OJ      ii-l 

«OUS      .1-t 

.      *       1      . 

*    •    • 

73  estab- 
lishment 

report- 
ing data, 

Groups 
I  to  VII. 

8 

• 

8 

"3 

§2  ?: 

• 

1 
1 

'  eo 

•<* 

1-5    'oi    ■    ■ 

U5 

»00       At^t^i-i 

Oft*     wooeo 
•    •,— »  •    .    .    . 

•^ 

• 

•     t     •     • 

5 

u 

03 

3 

a 

ie 

1 

fl  • 

H  9 

®  •  • 

m 

II 

1^" 

5 

1 

s 

03 

1 

II     : 

.  a 

i:  :§     : 

.a 

a 

D 

o 

4^ 

•s 

X  I-' 

1 

§ 

pi; 

1 

i 
ft 

1 

•S 

1 

5   1 
o 

i 

CO 

Is 

r 

2  Si® 

I3l 

j:;   5 


g 


c» 


lO 


^ 


eo 


w 


^^S    g?8fe55S9 


eo 


00 


eo 


S52 


p* 


$ 


!0         .H 
1-1         01 


S§ 


Oft  00 

eoo> 


2    8 


8    S 


c* 


s  s 


JOQ 


eo 


•  I— I    'H^^oeo 


CO 


o 

CO 


g 


eo 


S3 


:g  :8 


^«o 


eo 


eo 


eo 


00 


e 

N 


:^  i'^ 


lO 


5ii 


$g^ 


:&SSSB 


lO 


$8 


•* 

c^ 


00 


s 


I 

Ph 


g^ 


8ti 


:SS 


S 

CO 


«o      Oft 
eo     5« 


ss^ 


>o 


gs 


c^ 


s 


00 


eo 


t^ 

■^ 


(N 


8 

id 


M 

1 

■w 


e 
u 

« 


?5^$     :SS8g^ 


(N 


05 

Oft 


eo     00 
eo     N 


e<j 


CO 


•       •       • 

»Oi-l 


:8S8 


00 
us 


e< 


fe 


^  O  Ci 


O  O  ^  CC  Oi  CO 


o 


s 


s^s 


8SiSi 


CJftOOQ     gg«j£St8 


eot^«fl 


N 


S 


5 


Oft 


00 


"2 


I 


HO 


€<^ 

io«i-i.2 

?f^o^3 


be 

B 

iH 

v 

CS 

a 

I 


«i 


I 


94 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


95 


J 

P 

"<  o 

I— I   e-i 

S  £ 


H 


H 


OQ  W 

OQ 


O 


.    < 


O 
«^- 

S  w  fl 

s  « ij 
s=  ^  H 


!z; 


^   OQ   S 

23  w  S 

n  >-)  ti 

fc^CQ  fa 
fe  H  W 

o  hPh 


q  S5 


?5  O  ^ 


H    02    „ 


i^  O  pq 

I.  rt  00 

fa  ■<  *^ 

■J  to  -< 

e5 


s 

o 

03 

a 
I 


o 
6 


d 

J2; 


o 


3 

o 

o 


(3 

a 

.a 

03 

CO 


d 


CO 

d 


to 


d 


d 
S2J 


5 


8 


S 
8 


8 


8 


8 

8 


8 


«o 


8 


CO 


8" 


§8 


C«5 


fS 


(N 


00 


•O 


8 

00 


(N 


00  00 


"3 


»o 


8 


9 


OCTi 


«C 


S 


^^ 


"3' 


«o 


CC 


coco 

t»oo 


o 


s 


s 


"5  t^Tjf  eo 

t-  CO  l-H  «3 


0«       f-l 


g 


"*«Oi-l  00 


CO 


CM        rt 


It-- 


IM 


(N 


CO 


'e>i 


(NO* 
IM  00 


<NC^ 


»o 


»o 


ope*  lO'^  o 
OS  to  •^  CO  00 

e<i  th  1-5    *  t-J 


o 


<© 


00 


8§8  ;^gg! 


s^ 


eo 


<ot» 


z 


»  00  CM  go 

■^  COCO  o 


<C        (M 


CO 


8  Ob- OS  CO 
OS  to  fH  CO 


CO  to  t^ coo 


^Jg^*^'^ 


'iO«0 


28 


:3:§ 


^s? 


co( 


leo 


■-0 


^ 


t^»S  ooo 

<£>  Ouo  f-H 


CM        ■'»< 


00 


:5S 


OS  CO 
co^ 


8?28^S 


w 


OS  00^  lO  CO 

CO  CO  OTi-H  CO 


i   I 


o 


o  o 

Xi  CO    • 

c8  £  CO 

I 


§5^ 


t^co 
t^co 


CM 


CM 

00 


»o 


■*CM 
t^OS 


2S8 


5g. 

CM 


® 


4J 


o 


ii 


& 

t,  o  «  ©.b+S 


cogg 


CO  CO 


CO 


^S5 


lOC^' 


cot-; 


,-ico 
eoos 


eo 
eo 


eocDuo    -ouacMooco 


00 


t>- 


eo 


■*00 


CM 


•  CO«Ot^ 

•  CO  00-* 


CM 

Tj5 


8?S 


«m;o.-i«o 
I--  i-H  i-<  - 


«o 


lO 


00  CM 


^ 


Colet- 
te .-no 


CM 


.©i-ICM 
«OCM«0 


'€^^^ 


00  eo 


»o 


t-1 


r^  CO 

op  00 


CO 


CM 


COCO 

00^ 


8 


eo 

CO 


CO  ^  00     •0"3eD<-i«0 


CO 


.-lOCM 


8 

u 


OS 


ce 
oo 


CM 


CO 
00 


OIIOU3  00 

MOCMCM 


OO 
»-iCM 


228Sfe 


eo 


eo 


^ 


8 


l-HC^l 


3 

o 


I 


> 

2 

CO 

B 

a 

03 
«  « 

HO 


o 

Eh 


CMt^Oi     'COOQWJ^ 

•^coco    -i-ieotocoos 


■^COCO 

"od" 


^H  00»C 


oS    IioSooS 
cOrH    •    '    ■    *eo 


CM 

CM 


CM 


•  CM     -rfO 


CO 
u 


t4 

PL4 


00 
CM 


CM 


Si^S  :8:$S28 


osc^os 
irjeoN 


r-t-oo 

»o  ■^os 


:« 


O 
CO 


•3110  OS 
OCMCO 

CMeo 


'OS    "CO 


CO 

u 


CO 


t-l 


CM 

eo 


i  CD 

m  ® 

®  o  g 

S  ®  35 

Phqj  g 

®  Sg 

QQ 


:  p.  ; 

•    P4      • 

I    '"^  • 

•  Xi    . 

•  CO      < 

■.•3  : 
•  a  9 

;".§ 

.  o 
•■^  2 

6f  q  ® 

,^f£Jp^p^O-<0 


;T3    ;    ; 

o  3    •  S 

9 ' 


s -a :  S) 

o«3.3::3 
bc  ~.E2  9 

1  rt  SS'Ov^ 


3 
9 
o 

a 


o 
9 


9 

3 
O 

9 
3 
O 


^ 

+J 

S 
^ 


08 
O 


<ii' 


96 


THE  HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


Of  the  18  establishments  having  manufacturing  losses  of  from  0  11 
to  13.1  per  cent,  the  percentages  for  materials  of  7  were  higher  than 
those  of  their  respective  groups  and  those  of  7  were  higher  than  the 
general  average.  ^ 

The  percentage  for  direct  labor  of  13  of  these  18  establishments 
Ww'^  ^^  t'^  ^^°^V^  ^^^"^  respective  groups  an.l  those  of  ifwere 
higher  fhan  the  generd  average.  It  is  noticeafcle  that  the  percentage 
of  loss  of  establishment  No.  68  was  1 .12  and  the  percentage  of  loss  of 

S  No  6s"l?*i^"9f  .^^'v'^'ru**  >"*  the  percentage  for  direct  kb 
«  ill     f        /•?>"■'  the  highest  shown  m  tfie  table,  while  No.  60  had 

fhK.  ^'  ^T  ''"'$*  ^^^°'"  °^,  ''''^y  12-77.  This  fiu-ther  iUustratcs 
that  the  percentage  of  profit  or  loss  Is  not  dependent  on  labor 

1  he  percentages  for  indirect  labor  of  11  of  the  18  estabUshment'i 
were  higher  than  those  of  their  respe,.tive  groups  and  thosrof  1 2  were 
hirfier  than  the  general  average.  »      i-  xi  weie 

wPr!'1,L?f'\*i!®^/i?'"  ^^''x"'?  e'^Pen^e  °^  14  of  the  18  establishments 
were  hiriier  than  those  of  theu-  respective  groups  and  those  of  15 
were  higher  than  the  general  average. 

The  percent^es  for  administrative  expense  of  8  of  the  18  ostab 
hshmenta  were  higher  than  those  of  their  respective  groV™  and  thosV 
of  7  were  higher  than  those  of  the  general  average 

The  percentages  for  seUing  expense  of  4  of  the  18  establishments 
were  higher  than  those  of  their  respective  groups  and  those  of  3  were 
higher  than  those  of  the  general  average.  "o  "^  o  were 

DIRECT  AND  INDIEECT  LABOB  COMBINKD. 

Table  42  resembles  Table  31  in  that  it  shows,  by  groups,  the  average 
net  sales  and  profits,  but  it  gives  the  average  iteii  of  expense  without 
classification  under  direct  labor,  indirect  labor,   factory  erpeTe 
adinmistrative  expense,  and  seUing  expense.    lA  this  table  Et 
tt,l  ^'J^indu-ect  labor,  except  s^aries  of  ofllciaLs,  are  entered  L 

t  ■  n  ^  f  T  ^""^  ^f^"^^  ''^^  <^«'"'^  'I'lder  the  heads  of  indirea 
labor,  cost  of  administration,  and  cost  to  sell  are  combined,  and  in 

Se  cZS  *^^J.*r°^/°F  ^^'i*  *^d  «1^<?  the  items  for  fire  iikurance 
are  combined  The  salaries  of  clerks  m  the  ofiico  and  the  office 
expemes  for  stationery,  etc.,  are  put  together. 

taWe  wMl*^/*^"''  "^  *'•'*  *"■?  "I'^^^'^y  »"**"S<'d  as  in  the  last 
table,  but  these  items  are  given  in  the  form  of  percentages,  which 

Z  sZ   °°  ''*'^  mamSacturing  and  seUing  expense  ^d'n^t  on 


00 

;z; 
o 

H 

M 

n 
1^ 
o 

Q 

< 

02 

t3 

O 

oi 
O 

<«! 
CZ2 

H 

O 

Q 
» 
CO 

X 

O 


o 


H 


Q 


00 

& 

W  O 

OQ   p^ 
Z^ 

'^  b 

«  O 

o 

GO 

H 

Eh 
M 

Q 
M 

M 
b« 

M 

u 

H 

&< 
O 

<J0 

O 

< 


COST  AND  PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


97 


^•5    S 

O 


T5 


O  O 


o> 


gg-.£g§ft 


00       '''^.- 


CO 


t» 

®     5     L. 


^  <  .2  ^ 


ID  O   ^ 
CO       -^ 


5  JS  J3  C  M  C  ^<-» 
-i  p-g  2  OS  ®  osj^c:^ 


N 


S 


CO  t^  n  =G 


W^        hH 


r^  ^^  ff^        ^ 


to 


0) 


CO 


Q^H  00  CO 

<D  cooj  or 


O'T  SCI" 
^■"J"        CO 


■^  CO  Q  30 


00^  o  r^ 

>-l  00  CO>-i 


coos  50  00 
couo      ^ 


000s  ■* 


•^  rH  CO  O 

OS  t-  c5 ' ' 


1  irj 


oo^xos 


5  X.  r^  o  e^i 

5  CO  X  c5  r^  -      ^    - 

S'S'C^Xfiic,  OJCO        C"c£<3i»t< 


>  CO  to  t  -r  < 


I  05  I- 


I  coxx 


c<»  eoco 


C^        to        MC'tCO'^ 


coe>« 


"203 

1/5  "-H 


CO 


X  C»  C>1  X  >C-  X  CO  'O  X  CO  X 

X  CO  X  -H  c;  —    . .-  ^..  — .  -^ 

t^  CO  ■fl'  05 


SsS  o6c>S-^^ ' 


)0 
)X 


eo^X 


«»ne^         ^ 


CO 


eo 


X 
CO 


CO 


^^0S05  < 


)  ■V*  CO  t~  CO  C! 


•^  Cl-'f  «-»• 


•  CO 


t-H  1-t  X  X 


^l 


>x 


311c  CO 

X        1-H 


N 


^■^NXOC'rt^i-leO'^OiC^ClQcC 

o  X  CO  'f^  --  ^  'O  -^  CO  "i  e^  i^  CM    »-<  o  ^ 

Ti>cocot>-»-HOfX«ccoe^>oo   c^-^io 


e<»-H-* 


»-l»-<C» 


e^CM 


X 


J'V  X 


icol 

eoi-J'co 


ece» 


o  ?<  "0  CO    eo  lO  o 
t^  CJ  CD  csi    ui  ■^  ^ 

^H  ^»>  T^  1/5  I  'V  CO  X 


>-<        C*^'  I  CO  CD  «0 


lox  -"reM 
r»  t^r-os 

Xf 


sr' 


.      _  t^  X 
^-  t^  W  CO  CM  I 

©■^  "5CO       I 


CM  i^  'J'  ^H         rH 


t^X'*-He5>o^|0?ot>. 
ox      SSS?35iCM"«rx 


t>'iocot^©i-Hr>-i>-t^'^eMCM'^x 

CMt^>0'-<'0-^r^ccxcp-^t^»-io 
t— oxo".  1— iTrxeo»f5coicx«OTt' 


cc  ^r  3;  to 
eoccxa 
t^xxos 


XiCTCO      x»ox-^ 
<-<  r>-  1-t  so  1-t 

■>r  CM 


CO  CM  CO 


CMt^CM 


CMQX 
■^35  CM 


»co>o 

1—1 1—1 1—1 
X— < 


»C  CPCM  I~-  CO  ( 

XOOi  XCM  < 
»-« i-<  CO  3S  CM  ( 

t^od"»«"oi' 

CMlfl 


XXOSCMCMCMOt^-UJ 


1  t^aiCM 

iiCfli-icOi-ti.OTl'Q 

iCO«5t>-^HOcC»^« 


e«»^io 


^CMeo 


COCO 


CO  t-»  >-o 

-^  LO  •* 

CO  t->-H 

a- 


CD  I 

eo< 


CMar^'i^ocsCMcocMcoxoCM-HO    •rfi 

I.-  &  CTi  CM  X  1-1  CO  t-  ^  is  -^  X  T  CM  10  T      X  ( 


>  i.-^  CJ  CTi  CM  X  »-i  CO  t—  1— <  i.O  ^  X  T  CM  10  T 
JXO^i-lXCOt-'HCM'n-lCr-^OXt^t^ 


X05  lOeo 
coco      '^ 


'  1— 1  ic  1-iCM  eo      •-« 


10  ■* 


X.-I- 

1(5  1-H 


^32^5£— f^f^^SSSSl^SS' 


coi_ 
01  ■^•1 


I  >^    W  .   1  ™  w"«  1-^    **V  W'»'  ...'  '•"1   ' 

i§2S'c;;2s?gs?g; 


5kCeo-f^r~''^»'5'^ 
;  -<  O  r^-  -^  iC  1  ^H  ic  oc 
sCMCOOt^'J'OO 


CM  •<»•  CO  1.0        •««"  CM  t- 


^H  CM  eo     i-<  'M  cco 


t^  Tf  CO 

CM  CM 

eo 


s 


a 

1 

CO 


a 

s 


(S 
CO 


CO 

C 

CO   O 

s  « 

•»  o 

O  CO 


2 

K.  o  fc-  5*^ 


X3 
to 


0) 

.2" 


_M--;  CO 

?  '^  »-  ^ 
o  ®  ®  .fc;  fi 


zr. 

« 

s 

A 
X 
e 

_  O  to 

Sf  <»to 
.S  M.£ 

►^  c?  t- 


o 


%^ 


CO 

a> 

Ceo 

^^  '^ 

a;       ® 
—  tS  X 

O  *  OS 

OCQEh 


ta 

CO 

c 

03 


•S 


CO 


s 


s 


QO 


CO     lOS 
CM 


X  I 

X  i 
CM 


CM 


CM 


CM 


CO 


cm" 


CO 


X 


i?5 


CO 


M 


g 


X 


01     'CO'* 

X  i  xec 
oT  .cm" 

»0  : 


2\^ 
Si* 

CO      "=» 


il§ 


o 

1-t 

OS 


r^ !  X 

o  I  i-< 


8 


X 

Si 


■»r  CO      CM    i-; 

cO^       t^  i  C 


e« 


CO 


CO  X      ic 

ec 


ct 


06   e5  X     X    CI 
eo     -  -      - 


CO 
CM 


CO 

C 
« 

c:  ® 

.is    O) 


•c=: 
<< 


O  bO 

Si  w  V3   O  CO 

S  u.i3  CO  "O 

S  ==  ®  C  o 

•^   M    ®   ©  •— I 

_^^   «_    CO  O 


S 


to  "9 
£  eS 
o  ^ 
■""  +j 

t^a 

•ss 

&"-' 

"C  O 

^1 

S)  ® 

^  S  fc 

lo  = 
k  o  o 

^C  C 
be--  o 

£5  toj* 

•r  3"^ 
5  ®  ? 


c 


c  ti  ®  ^ 

ss5 


to 

O 

h4 


t 


9963°— 15- 


.r 


98 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


99 


CO 
O 

o 


;? 

(^ 
M 

o 

a 

H 

Xfl 

Q 
<l 

O 

•A 

K 
t> 
E- 
O 
< 

< 


PQ 
H 


h3 

o 


O 


00 
Oh 
& 
O 


90 


1-4 

m 

o 

o^ 
«  9 

I— I 
» 

1-4 

6* 
O 

QQ 
» 

< 

i? 

U 


CO 
PQ 

-«: 


Si 


—      bed  w,i«  ►^'2     S 


CO 


CO   >>' 


S  2  "eS 


00 


be 


•a 

.a 
>. 

3 
,C 
in 

d 


OS 

CO 


■Sf> 


®  5 


w 


"3  5?   CO   ®    "3   Pt 


OS 


5  -e  t3  w  *  «  3 
*  o  i;  o^  >  rt 


m 


■vec 


S>Ct^Oi>OONOiC<J?OOtl^O 


«         tH 


N 


0>QC  ^^  t^ 

ooe«»Ci-i 


'■2'^5§88t::SS§§58g 


©•vc 


»H        04 


os«DCii-Hu5coeci-4>OT^— <o 


!-«« 


O  C*5 


Se»5S9e<5«o^<cO'^>ooQ©c»fO> 
t^O«©-<J'«CC«»lN«.-i-»ob 


.-I     N 


1-2 .2 -S  ft 

R  -(-i  CO  —  3 

S  o  o  c  o 

CO        w^ 


CO 


*  5  fc.  rt  S  ®o 

•a2.£|pV5-Sft 

CO         "^  CO   g        Q 


CO 


i» 


=!  i^-S  S  3  ®  fe  SC^ft 
t;  o  2.2,rt^-2*jco  tf 


■"I'sa  §  s*H' 


OS 


S.2§o 
®  2o»-" 


CO 


OT   W 


bC 


s 


CO"^         i-t 


s 


8 


»oooa>oofoso>ct^cJ©Oec»-H 


QOj5^«      ^     e« 


oot--g>io 


©UJNI-' 

Osc0©0 


SS""" 


r5ifl5i.-HgjooQiOicu3cci«>t© 
^©©■^©t— cO»-t©W>-<ieO 


-<       N 


iC'J<c^cc£»a"N«5©goec>o©u5©»«e-© 
e»sr^oo»-iO©t^c^i-<©'^eooo©©cno>io 


jj-eg^^      -H      w 


tC2(;t^e50©c^©-H5^'»»<u350©»'^fQ-«r 
•-•c»-«!t<cO'-<cct--«<eo©Tj<:— ieooecc^2co 


gS«^      -      ^ 


N^ 


;S88$i^?2l::gS^^?;;feo??gJS? 


g«(NiO      ^      N 


e4^ 


e»ecc»oc^e^c»©5etrcece©r^T-Heo'rco 
oooc^^t^©'»t<t^««©T»<t^»-i©e«5«'citt^ 


C^QCN'T         ^         CM 


5 


s 

S3 


bC 

W3 


bC 

.3 

3 

u 

.«8 


®  "a 

o  9 

®  B 

i  ^ 

Jz;  Eh 


i 

1 

o 

d 
p. 

CO  « 
O  d 


s 


be 

d 

OS 


® 

CO 

% 

-  X 
•d  ® 
!3  ® 

03  Q 


;§ 


CO 


§§ 


OQOK 


eg  d 

®  es  £;  — 
o  <?  ®-i5 


lis 

S  y  03  O  g*^ 

abc  «,  r«   O  J2 
d  SJjas+j  ® 


I>^PhU 


d 
® 
ft 

.a  ® 
5o 

-da 


By  Table  43  it  will  be  seen  that  the  principal  percentages  of  the 
items  of  cost  of  the  product  of  aU  establishments  reporting  data 
(Groups  I  to  VII)  were,  in  the  order  of  the  size  of  the  percentages,  raw 
materials,  52.82;  labor,  28.83;  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of 
salesmen,  4.78;  depreciation,  2.20;  salaries  of  officials,  2.12;  and  adver- 
tising, 1.84. 

Group  I,  composed  of  establishments  making  full-fashioned 
hosiery,  East  and  West,  had  the  highest  percentage  for  labor  of  any 
group,  33.74,  but  its  percentages  for  most  other  items  were  lower 
than  the  average. 

Group  VI,  composed  of  estabhshments  in  the  East,  West,  and  South 
making  seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed,  had  the  lowest 
percentage  for  labor  of  any  group,  17.22,  which  is  explained  by  the 
fact  that  the  percentage  for  materials  was  far  above  the  average. 

Group  V,  composed  of  establishments  in  the  West  making  seamless 
hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  mixtures,  had  the  lowest  percentage  for 
materials,  principally  because  the  percentages  for  salaries,  commis- 
sions, and  expense  of  salesmen,  for  salaries  of  clerks  and  office  expense, 
for  advertising  (which  was  especially  large),  and  for  other  items  of 
expense  were  larger  than  the  average. 

Group  VII,  composed  of  establishments  in  the  East  and  West 
spinning  all  or  part  of  their  yams  and  making  seamless  hosiery, 
mostly  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed,  had  a  low  percentage  for  mate- 
rials because  of  the  purchase  of  wool  and  cotton  mstead  of  yams. 

LABOR  COST  AND  IMPORT  DITTIES. 

As  shown  by  Table  43,  the  average  labor  cost,  based  on  total  man- 
ufacturing and  selling  expense,  varied  from  17.22  per  cent  in  Group 
VI  to  33.74  per  cent  in  Group  I,  the  average  for  the  73  establish- 
ments reportmg.  Groups  I  to  VII,  being  28.83  per  cent. 

From  October  4,  1913,  to  June  30,  1914,  the  period  from  the  date 
when  the  Underwood-Simmons  act  became  effective  to  a  month  before 
the  war  in  Europe  began,  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  for  con- 
sumption amounted  to  $2,561,301.  The  duty  paid  on  such  imports 
amounted  to  $1,142,404,  or  asi  average  rate  of  44.60. 

Under  the  new  tariff  the  ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  on  silk  knit 
goods  is  50  per  cent  ad  valorem,  and  on  knit  wearing  apparel  com- 
posed in  chief  value  of  wool  is  35  per  cent. 

WAGES  AND  COST  OF  MATERIALS. 

Table  44  shows  the  per  cent  of  the  total  expenses  of  manufacturing 
expended  for  salaries,  wages,  materials,  and  miscellaneous  expenses, 
as  reported  by  the  Census  of  Manufactures  of  1909  for  the  hosiery 
and  knit-goods  industries. 


m 


100 


THE   HOSIEEY   IXDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


101 


Table  44. — Per  Cent  of  Total  Expenses  Reported  for  the  Hosiery  and  Knit- 

Goods  Industries,  1909. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  75.] 


States. 


Salaries. 


Alabama 

California 

Connecticut 

Delaware 

Georgia 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Maine 

Maryland 

Massachusetts 

Michigan 

Minnesota 

New  Hampshire . . . 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

North  Carolina 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

Rhode  Island 

South  Carolina 

Tennessee 

Utah 

Vermont 

Virginia 

Wisconsin 

All  other  States 

United  States 


5.5 
14.5 
6.2 
3.0 
5.2 
4.5 
9.3 
8.1 
9.9 
2.8 
4.2 
9.3 
10.4 
2.3 
6. 
3. 
4, 
6. 
3. 
4, 
4 
3. 


7.2 
2.7 
3.9 
7.6 
7.1 


4.4 


Wages. 


24 

25. 

26. 

2H. 

24 

22.6 

36.0 

25.8 

22.4 

23.4 

31.4 

22.1 

19.4 

27.5 

29.6 

24.8 

24.0 

IH.6 

26.8 

lh.8 

26. 

22. 

13, 

24 

22. 

23.6 

34.1 


Cost  of 
materials, 


61.7 
45.8 
58.3 
66.0 
62.9 
65.4 
48.0 
51.1 
49.8 
66.7 
56.7 
58.8 
60.6 
63.4 
59.9 
64.7 
67.0 
66.8 
62.0 
72.3 
57.9 
64.9 
74.9 
65.9 
66.1 
58.0 
51.4 


25.5 


62.7 


M  Iscella- 

neous 
expenses. 


8.3 

14.0 

9.4 

2.5 

n  - 
(.  ( 

7.5 
6.7 
15.1 
17.9 
8.2 
1. 1 
9.S 
9.5 
6..S 
3.t, 
7.0 
4.M 

7.H 
7.4 
4.6 

11.3 
9.1 
4.4 
6.6 
7.3 

10.8 
7.4 


7.4 


The  following  comment  on  the  tabhi  appears  in  the  census  report: 

The  differences  among  the  States  with  respect  to  the  proportions  which  the  cost  of 
matenals  and  wages,  respectively,  formed  of  the  total  reported  expenses  are  attribu- 
table largely  to  differences  in  the  character  of  materials  used  and  to  differences  in  the 
degree  of  fineness  and  elaboration  of  the  prodiu^ts.  The  cost  of  materials  is  likely  t.. 
fonn  a  smaller  proportion  and  wages  a  highor  proportion  of  th<^  total  expenses  in 
establishments  which  do  their  own  spinning  than  in  establishments  that  buy  the  yarn 
which  they  use  for  knitting. 

The  percentage  that  the  cost  of  materials  formed  of  the  total  ex])enses  reported  varie? 
considerably  in  the  different  States,  being  highest  in  Utah  (74.9)  and  Rhode  Island 
(72.3)  and  lowest  in  Califorma  (45.8),  Indiana  (48),  and  Maine  (49.8).  For  New  York 
the  percentage  was  64.7;  for  Pennsylvania,  62;  and  for  Massachusetts,  56  7.  In 
Massachusetts  the  mills  use  relatively  more  raw  cotton  and  less  purchased  cotton  yarn 
than  m  Pennsylvania  and  New  York. 

Table  44,  from  the  census  report,  is  not  exactly  comparable  with 
Table  43,  because  the  former  covers  both  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods 
industries,  while  the  latter  was  compiled  from  data  regarding  hosiery 
mills  only;  and  also  because  in  the  former  the  total  expense  of  the 
vear  1909  was  the  base,  and  in  the  latter  the  net  sales  during  th<^  last 
business  year,  1913  in  most  cases,  was  the  base.  These  differences 
in  mind,  it  is  of  interest  to  compare  this  census  tables  with  Table  43. 
It  appears  that  in  the  latter  table  the  percentages  for  salaries,  wages, 
or  labor,  and  material  are  lower. 

CONDITIONS  UNDER  TABIFF  ACTS  OF  1897  AND  1909. 

The  Dmgley  Tariff  Act  became  operative  July  24,  1897,  and 
remained  m  effect  until  August  4,  1909,  when  the  Payne- Aldrich 
Tanff  Act  went  into  effect.     Table  45  shows  the  amount  of  cotton 


hosiery  imported  for  consuinption  in  the  United  States  during  the 
last  full  fiscal  year  under  the  Dingley  law  and  the  amount  during  the 
first  full  fiscal  year  under  the  Payne-Aldrich  law,  together  with  the 
duty  paid  thereon  and  the  average  ad  valorem  equivalent  rate. 

Table  45. — Imports  of  Cotton  Hosiery  for  Consumption  in  the  United  States 

During  the  Fiscal  Years  1909  and  1911. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30 — 


1909. 
1911. 


Dozen 
pairs. 

Value. 

Duty  col- 
lected. 

5,068,002 
2,933,129 

$6,390,921 
3,824,968 

$3,860,418 
2,803,950 

Average 

ad  valorem 

equivalent 

rate. 


60.40 
73.31 


The  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufac- 
turers was  dissatisfied  with  the  rates  of  duty  on  cotton  hosiery  which 
were  provided  under  the  Dingley  Act,  and  which,  as  shown  by  this 
table,  averaged  60.40  per  cent.  The  tariff  committee  of  the  associa- 
tion, in  petitioning  the  Committee  on  Ways  and  Means  of  the  House 
of  Representatives  for  increased  rates  of  duty,  stated  near  the  end 
of  1908  that  the  cotton-hosiery  industry  was  in  a  ^'desperate  condi- 
tion.''    The  following  is  quoted  from  the  petition:** 

The  National  Association  op  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers  Asks 

FOR  More  Duty  on  Cotton  Hosiery. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  November  30 y  1908. 

Hon.  Sereno  E.  Payne, 

Chairman  Ways  and  Means  Committee. 

Sir:  The  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers,  an  organi- 
zation representing  75  per  cent  of  American  manufacturers  of  hosiery,  through  its 
tariff  committee  most  respectfully  begs  to  submit  for  your  consideration  the  following 
facts  and  statistics  to  substantiate  their  claim  for  an  increase  in  the  present  tariff 
rates  on  cotton  hosiery. 

♦  ♦«♦*«» 

As  evidence  of  the  needs  of  the  hosiery  craft  for  additional  protection,  we  would 
submit  for  your  consideration  the  following  comparative  costs  of  four  prominent  and 
leading  articles  of  staple  hosiery.  We  have  selected  these  four  qualities  for  the  reason 
they  are  the  principal  items  of  hosiery  imported,  representing  a  greater  per  cent  of 
the  total  imports  than  any  others;  they  are  also  the  most  popular  articles  of  con- 
sumption. 

*«**♦*♦ 

A  careful  census  of  the  hosiery  mills  of  this  country  shows  the  desperate  condition 
of  this  craft;  almost  without  exception,  a  week  not  exceeding  four  days  is  prevailing 
and  in  many  cases  three  days  a  week  is  the  true  state  of  affairs.  You  therefore  can 
readily  understand  the  serious  necessities  of  the  industry,  due  entirely  to  the  low 
cost  of  labor  and  materials  in  Germany,  the  keenest  competitor  for  American  cotton- 
hosiery  trade. 

How  soon  will  the  Japanese  with  their  frightfully  low  wages,  even  in  comparison 
with  those  of  Germany,  the  high-grade  skill  of  their  working  people,  and  with  the 
effective  help  of  their  Government,  be  competing  with  American  labor? 

The  hosiery  craft  would  earnestly  engage  the  attention  of  the  committee  to  this 
probability,  for  if  Japan  continues  to  advance  in  manufacturing  in  the  next  five  years 

.  oThis  petition  was  presented  to  the  Committee  on  Ways  and  Means  on  Dec.  12, 1908.  See  tariff  hear^ 
'ngs  before  the  Committee  on  Ways  and  Means  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  60th  Cong.,  190a-9, 
Schedule  I,  Cotton  and  Manufactures  of,  pp.  4593-4607. 


102 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST   AND   PROFIT   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 


103 


at  the  same  ntio  as  she  has  in  the  last  five,  American  hosiery  wage  earners  will  be 
confronted  with  a  condition  far  more  serious  than  that  which  faces  them  to-day  with 
the  low  cost  of  labor  and  production  of  hosiery  in  Germany. 
Most  respectfully    submitted. 

William  L.  Waring,  chairman,  72  Leonard  Street,  New  York  City;  George 
D.  Horst,  of  The  Nolde-Horst  Company,  Reading,  Pa.;  Thon.  E. 
Brown,  of  Brown  Knitting  Company,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  W.  Park 
Moore,  of  Brown- Aberle  Company,  Philadelphia,  Pa. ;  Joh.  S.  Rambo, 
of  Rambo  &  Regar,  Inc.,  Norristown,  Pa. ;  A.  H.  Sulloway,  of  Sulloway 
Mills,  Franklin,  N.  H.;  Julian  S.  Carr,  Durham,  N.  C;  Gamett 
Andrews,  of  Richmond  Hosiery  Mills,  Chattanoogji,  Tenn. 

In  considering  the  statements  in  this  petition  that  the  hosiery 
industry  was  in  a  desperate  condition  in  1908  as  a  result  of  inadequate 
protection  under  the  Diiigley  law,  attention  may  be  given  to  Tables  46 
and  47,  which  show  census  statistics  for  the  years  1899  to  1909,  cover- 
ing most  of  the  years  that  the  Dingley  law  was  in  force,  1897  to  1909. 

Table  46. — Development  op  the  Hosiery  and  Knit-Goods  Industries  in  the 

United  States,  1899  to  1909. 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  67.J 


Items. 


Number  of  establishments 

Salaried  employees 

Wage  earners  (average  num- 
ber)  

Primary  horsepower 

Capital 

Expenses 

Services 

Salaries , 

Wages 

Materials 

Miscellaneous 

Value  of  products 

Value  added  by  manufacture 
(value  of  products  less  cost 
of  materials) 


Number  or  amount. 


1909 


1,374 
5,721 

129,275 

103,709 

«163,641,171 

175,729,583 

52,431,680 

7,691,457 

44,740,223 

110,241,053 

13,056,850 

200,143,527 


89,902,474 


1904 


1,144 
4,330 

104,092 

78,769 

$106,943,072 

123,276,676 

36,069,758 

4,455,161 

31,614,607 

76,789,348 

10,417,569 

137,076,454 


60,287,106 


1899 


1,006 
2,831 

83,691 

57,346 

$82,065,517 

85,395,367 

27,572,657 

3, 138, 160 

24,434,497 

51,195,330 

6,627,380 

95,833,692 


44,638,362 


Per  cent  of  increase. 


1899-1900 


36.0 
102.1 

54.5 
80.8 
99.4 

105.8 
90.2 

146.1 
83.1 

115.3 
97.0 

108.8 


101.4 


1904-1909 


20.1 
32.1 

24.2 
31.7 
53.0 
42.5 
46.4 
72.6 
41.5 
43.6 
Sft.3 
46.0 


49.1 


1891^1904 


13.7 
52.9 

24.4 
37.4 
30.3 
44.4 
30.8 
42.0 
29.4 
60.0 
67.2 
43.0 


35.1 


Table  47. — ^Value  op  Hosiery  Proditced  in  the  United  States,  1899  to  1909 

[Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  79.J 


TtiiTn<? 

Value. 

Per  cent  of  increase. 

1909 

1904 

1899 

1899-1909 

1904-1909 

189»-1904 

Value  of  product 

$68,721,825 

55,909,987 

4,766,195 

4,445,227 

3,600,416 

$44,113,260 

34,586,629 

3,396,842 

5,607,488 

522,303 

$27,420,029 

21,182,677 

2,044,723 

4,006,216 

186,413 

150.6 

163.9 

133.1 

11.0 

1,831.4 

.55.8 

61.7 

40.3 

O20.7 

5H9.3 

Cotton 

60.9 

Merino  or  mixed 

63.3 

Woolen  or  worsted 

Silk 

66.1 
40.0 

180.2 

a  Decrease. 


The  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufactur- 
ers apprehended  that  within  five  jrears  from  1908  the  competition 
from  Japan  would  be  ''far  more  serious"  to  American  hosiery  man- 
ufacturers than  the  competition  that  they  then  had  from  Germany. 
Table  48,  which  gives  statistics  of  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  from 
Japan,  will  show  what  has  been  the  extent  of  this  competition. 


Table  48. — Imports  op  Cotton  Hosiery  from  Japan  into  the  United  States  by 

Fiscal  Years,  1907  to  1914. 


Fiscal  years. 


1907 
1908 
1909 
1910 
1911 


Value. 


a  $446 

a  575 

O508 

813 

62 


Fiscal  years. 


Value. 


1912 
1913 
1914 
1915 


$11 

6 

24 

1,027 


a  All  kinds  of  cotton  knit  goods. 

In  the  chapter  of  this  report  headed  '^Capital,  profit,  and  turn- 
over" data  are  given  which  show  the  percentages  of  manufacturing 
profit  and  final  profit  based  on  the  capital  employed  in  the  business, 
as  weU  as  such  profits  on  net  sales.  In  the  chapter  on  "Selling 
methods"  data  are  given  which  show  the  percentages  of  manufac- 
turing profit  of  establishments  that  advertise  nationally  and  those 
that  do  not  so  advertise,  also  the  percentages  of  manufacturing 
profit  of  establishments  that  sell  to  retailers  as  compared  with  those 
that  sell  to  jobbers  or  commission  houses. 


♦  ^ 


COST   AND   PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


105 


CHAPTER  III. 

COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED  XJITITS. 

The  manufacturers  who  furnished  data  in  regard  to  their  pro- 
duction and  net  sales  for  a  year  were  requested  also  to  supply  data 
in  regard  to  the  cost  of  production  of  specific  st\ies  of  hosiery. 
Each  was  asked  to  give  details  about  hosiery  of  diffen^nt  grades, 
including  the  grades  of  which  he  sold  most.  In  each  case  the  unit 
of  cost  was  one  dozen  pairs  of  hose  of  the  same  style.  The  number 
of  manufacturers  who  furnished  data  was  63.  Some  of  them  fur- 
nished data  for  two  or  more  styles  and  some  for  styles  sold  to  both 
retailers  and  jobbers  or  through  commission  houses.  The  numbei- 
of  styles  of  each  garment  for  which  data  were  thus  8(^cured  is  shown 
in  Table  49. 

Table  49. — Number  op  Styles  of  Hosiery  for  Which  Cost  of  Production  Was 

Reported. 


Styles  of  hosiery. 

Sold  to  retailers. 

Sold     to     jobbers     or 
through    cominissioii 
houses. 

Establish- 
ments re- 
porting. 

styles 
rejKjrted. 

Establish- 
ments re- 
porting. 

Styles 
reported. 

Five  specified  styles  of  hosiery 

o23 

122 

0  44 

l.'iX 

Full  fashioned 

5 
6 

18 
3 
4 

22 
8 

81 
7 
4 

7 
9 
34 
6 
4 

17 

Seamless,  silk  or  silk  and  cotton  mixed 

i'> 

Seamless,  cotton 

Q>< 

Seamless,  wool  or  wool  and  cotton  mixed 

2fi 

Seamless,  artificial  silk 

5 

a  The  total  establishments  that  furnished  data  regarding  specified  styles,  of  which  19  sold  sjiecified 
styles  to  retailers,  40  to  jobbers  or  through  commission  li<»uses  and  4  to  retailors  or  jo))l)ers  or  through 
commission  houses . 

COST  AND  PROFIT  OF  TTNITS  SOLD  TO  BETAtLEBS. 

The  data  relating  to  the  cost  of  manufacturing  sjx^cified  unitn  slto 
presented  in  a  series  of  tables  which  foUow: 

104 


M 

o 

0 

O 

02 

O 


o 

02 


I 

.a 
*^ 

o 
a 

CO 

8 
a 


.a 


o 


o 


S2? 


C^ 


I 


00 

o 


S         ® 


SI 

O 
Pi 

H 

P4 

CD 
W 

o 

K 
O 


O 

Ph 

Q 

< 
W 

o 

Ph 

O 
Z 

h) 
Oi 

O 

1-4 

H 

P 
Q 
O 
« 
Ph 

O 

so 
O 


o 
< 


ft 


a^ 

OS's 

£  >> 

a  a 

S  o 

3  >> 

?■§ 

a 
« 

o 

a 

>  ■ 
§ 


Q 

"^ 
O 

w 

< 

Hi] 


08 

S 

o 

CO 
O 


CO  -fd 
O  O 


a-s  ^s  s 


CO 


00 


2g| 
t>^co 


C4 


S 


C4 


«  ao«  "-t  "-t 

,4  '    ■  «  ^ 


S 


CO 


^ 


•ts  t 


3fi 


«' 


CO 


S: 


t^eo 


^ 

S 


00 


s 


»  o 


+J  CO 


o 


S8 

»co 


^H  «^  ^ 


o 

Si 

e4 


us 


C4 


e3 

a 


««0  N 

U3  CO  Oi 

eo«^  r- 


2      S 


>o 


CQ 


CO 


«  8  h 

0  P<P« 


CO^  « 


tJ 


CM 


s 

CO 


CM 


CO  CI 


O  ^  «  A 


CO 


Vi 

O-co  ft 
ft 


c^ 


OC*  -H  ,-1 

d  1-1 


00 


00 


§^ 


8§3       8       8         8         S         8         S 


CO 


%. 
\ 

H 

H 

O 


ft-Si" 

.kOS'— 
M  «  3 

=^-§ . 


•  x:^      ftc3 

•Ss    gft 

!  ft  s 


o  V  « 


CO 


-a< 


**  < 

'^  \^   ^^  ■*-'  uu^^  op 
•  — ^     ^H         «  c^  «  O 


« 


0) 


1^ 


G  C  © 
-033 


^-a 


S  OQ  OQ  CO 


-®.2 

•.a^  xn  03 
CQ 


fl  g  ®     aS'O 


'<«-M  r|"^^^■^-r 
iS  ^j=l  es.3  05 .a 

CQ  t-J 


) 


1^ 


•Ot3 


n 

a 

o 


o 


o 


o 


o 
•d 


t 

03 


CO 


o  o 


o 

•d 


o 


^ 


o 


o 


s 


K 


-<W 


M 


O 


K 


-Si:" 
co:-3  2i 

w    a 


t>.eo 


CO 


106 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


107 


be 

Is 


2 


i 


I 


8 


CO 


^8 


i      52 

i-J  CO 


« 


00 


8 


CO 


ct 


c4 


M 


CO 


c4 


a> 

9 

a 
-«^ 

a 
o 
u 

I 

« 
o 

n 


.S3 

a 

N 

O 

Im 
CO 

6 


8        S        55 

»H  •-•  O 


CO 


$ 


§ 


12        a 


c  *  b  rt 


I: 


S    2    ^ 

CO  »H  t". 


i       §     5     s 


€0 


*»  CO 

os.a 
J2:    § 


8 


^ 


s 


00 


w 


Sg       S8 


CO 


eo 


C4 


s 


s       S3     r: 


s 


CO 


8g  . 


e 


CO 


CO 


CO 


c« 


M 


CI 


ej         ^ 


CO 


CO  w  »« 


et        C4 


8 

c4 


OS 


s 


g  "  » 
J2;     a 


^^S  8  8  SSa 


^       $S 


S^ 


^       ?^ 


o  o 


o  o 

*"0 


^33^3  0  0 

p  q?^  p  ap  ®  * 


•55 


•-^  *  St?  aT   - 


•Sfl« 


-agl 


;a 


P' 


^"-SvS 


C  o  « 


8 


'  2. 


&■ 


p5  '^         ri  n 


-O-C 


rt  ©  3 

o  a>  ^ 

■S-d-o 


=  w  fl 


"3  Si" 


a 


p 
•o 


§ 


p 
•o 


o 


p 
•d 


p 
•o 


4     i 


p 


S 
^ 


3 
H 


S 
^ 


p 


a 


p 


p 


•^ 


p 


o 


e 
•0 


p 


^ 


4S 


P4 


p 


n 


n 


n 


o 


« 


CO 


f5 


a> 


m 


n     n 


Q 

W 

M 

5z; 

O 

Eh 
H 

O 
O 

P 

M 

CQ 
O 

M 

QQ 

tXi 
CO 

W 

1^ 

< 
W 

CQ 


CO 


C<J50 


s?; 


o 


00 


s 
s^ 


eo 


coco 


CO     oi 


CO 


to 


eo 

CO 


t»  s  S1-4 


CO 


e>« 


g 


CO  cO< 

c^  e*< 


CO 


Oi 


c<t 


00      CO  eo 


s 


CI 


00 

CO 


06  OOOS  ■^       CO 

■<»i  10  «c  eo  «o      CO 

•  ■  «    «  •        • 


00 

CO 


00 


CO  Q  t>-»-t  »  O 

CO  io  00>O  W  O 

'•i  »o  t^oo  C5  © 

»-5  f-i  i-ii-i  OI  oi 


04 


OI 

o< 


88 


J5  s 

i 

• 

r^ 

1^ 

•» 

yo      U3 

OI 

H   *-< 

•* 

c5  CO 

o« 

^       ' 

8  S 

g 

'B'    CO 

eo 

10. 

CO    r-t 
OD   Oft 

04 

01   1^ 

OI 

i-<    .H 

r-* 

«• 

s 


8        S        So5        cs     S 

l-H  ^  ^H  O  00         CO 


CO       CO 


eo 

CO 


CO 


o 


loS 


8   § 

o     i>. 

■W        CO 


s 


! 

CO 


8 

OI 

J, 

eo 


eoco 


eo      CO 


eo 


eo 


o 

E-t 
O 
O 

QQ 
GQ 
» 

» 
QQ 


s 


Q       OI 

2    8 


CO 


04 


eo 


© 


^^1 


I; 


.»! 


.£Po 
©  o 

s« 

©  s 


>  © 

>  © 

P«©,Q 

all 

CQ 


Lp©    . 

p-5  a 
+^   ^® 

©  ^^-S 

."i:  oqt3 
P^ 


**  © 

© 
c© 


•3  w  -2  S  O 


p© 

-O  ©-tJ 


-O  g-OtCj  m 

-O  ©-o  ©-^      2""    . 
©  «  ©  «^      ° 


M<©       tor^  M<©  d> 

S3    §-i§3| 


-3    -  (~  ^ 


©     ©     Q 

©   CQ   B 


s 


© 


oJrC   m  © 


'a 
02 


.a  ^-^ 
2  S 

-ox: 

© 

ex© 

II 

'4^  • 

>«! 

QQ 


O 

•o 


O  P 


P      o 

•a    -o 


^ 


p 
•o 


a 
© 

a 

p 


CO 


it  i 


fill  Pi 


fv© 


§• 


.  * 


•  t-  o 


^  ©2  "''O    "2     * 

®5  fl  t*®S  ^  a»2 


•^  ®  d  "-o     ^      " 


p 

•o 


p  p 

•o-o 


p     p 
•o    -o 


o 
•o 


p 


o 


N 


APQ 


o    pq 


» 


K 


CO 


U3 


»o< 


00     CO 


04 


a 

p 


o 
•p 


p 


^ 


p 


p 


w   o 


3     S         3 


108 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


109 


o    o 

T3    T3 


O 

Q 

P^ 

u 

« 

o 

« 

Q  n 

o 

o 

n  (4 

•^2 
1-1 « 

8 

ff 

g 

^ 

S 

gJ 

3  £S 

r-t 

I 


«  ^  .-1 


it     CO 


Pi 

o 


« 
r^ 
c* 


X 

TO 


1-1 


CO 


S  «i 


CO 


'T        to  OS 

^      «J5eo 


CO 


*-^        O        '-^ 

e»r      M      c>i 


CO   -H 


I 


CO 


U5     lO 

o    o 


ifl  OS     CO 


CO         C5  CO 


CO      'J  "5 


00 


>.~         I-         X 

M        -O        OC 

-r         If         CO 


•^  CO 


•r<       «5 


^     o 


s 


1-1      o< 
CO      ■«"  < 


o      CO      ao 
CO      1^      X 

•'J'  1-H  l>. 


Oi 


^      -^  eo 

O        >C9C 


S 


S    i2    S 

O        1^        X 


'^; 


ii?»S        c^oeocococoiaopo 

^41—1  1— I  1-1  tH      »H  ^H  1— I      i-H  O  CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


I  CO 


CO 


is     »5     «o 

CO        CO        CO 


S    Si 

CO      co( 


2 

z 


"0 


"^.s 


CO 


r-  CO  CO  e*    CO  006    t-  ^      i5 

1-4  .— (  1— I  1-1    1-H  -H  05     Oi  ■«>■       X 

.  •  .  ••  .••  •- 

-H  1— I  -H  1— «       >— I  ^H  CO 


CO 


<5 

o 

CO 


CO      cooi 


i-O 

crs 
CO 

CO 


IC  'T  »  ^J  ^  ^  -a 

■n>      -^      o  <5      « «        Js 

•I      1— (      .— I  5i      ^x  o 


CO        CO        CO 


o 

CO 
CO 


CO        COCO 


CO 


^ 


CO 


:2 
:3i 


CO 


■■o 


s 

•^ 


N     CO 

CO   CO 


op     Q       O 


^       ^  COi 

f^    eo       CO  CO    , , 

CO    cO      CO  CO    CO      CO 


CO' 


1—1 

I 

CO 


CO 

1-H 

CO 


o 


I 

CO 


1—1  1-H 

CO  CO 


CO 


CO 


»o 


I 

CO 


CO 

I 


CO  »-• 


o 

CO 


I 


CO  O 

.-1  -H 

II 
coco 


p  2  o  « 

3"  (J)  M 

is  f^^5 


^^ 


s 


.a 

So 


II 

SO) 
-o 


o 

73 


CQ 


I 


-d    T3 

I    .2 

^-     g 


S 


o  o 
-ceo 


a 

01 


o 


o    o 


o    o 

73    -O 


0) 
CQ 


§3  i 

10  T3 

.a  *^-« 
4     « 


o 

II 

O 


to 


4-'  rtS  •-£  -t-^ 


o        .    ..  ~ 

2  f5*f   05  — 


©"Sb 
.j^  c3 

x'3^ 

crt  "*-'  j-a 


g     8 


06 


C3 


I 


9 

U 

—H 

a 
8 

hi 

o 


0T3     -    '"^^ 


2:33  £.8 


'o^J 


c-      © 

o  c  o^ 

"S—w— -*  S-S"©  © 
fe  ©  >  ©  o^^  ^  2 
^  ©  **  ©  2     ^  ^.c 

C3  ©  j3  ©T3  ©        (S  r: 

c  ©  E  ©  ns  o  c  ©5 

I— I      t-i      Ph  I— I 


a 
o 


c 

eS 


09 


•  5  OS 

•if -2 

:  ©S 

o  *^-r 

•^.9  8 


0000 


^      J3 
©        3 

k.     5 


o 

T3 


o    o 


CO 

.a 
1^ 


o 


o 


C3      2o' 


o 


o 


O 


o 
•o 


o 


O  O 

•aT3 


O  O     O     o 


© 


o 
-a 


o 

73 


o 

13 


3| 


o 


o      o 

T3      T3 


O 


o 


o  o 

T3T3 


« 


I 

OQ 


fiHpq     ofe     pqp-<<!     P^ 


w     a 


W<Q 


« 


w 


10      IT  »-l 

r.4      rH  O 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO  t^ 


<3 

U3 


35      ro 


coco 


110 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


Ill 


H 
QQ 

o 

Q 

O 

O 


s 

s 

n 

e2 


•8 

S 

§ 

o 

H 
O 
O 

QQ 
CQ 

;^ 

QQ 


I 


5 

a 
o 


o 


•3  o      K»o 


ill  I 


I 


**  08  Ui 


^J^ 


«  a 


^S,' 


^     a 


OS  is 


s 


00 


St 


CO 


ii 


c4 


a     92     OS     cooi 
t^     «     t^     So 

1-i  I-H  1-(  1-1  CSI 


s 


00         "fl"    <o 


8     cot*     » 


§8 


r^      00 
eo      « 


g5^ 


S  8 


o»-4     K 

"Ceo      y* 


'J      eo      -H      eoN 


eo 


5? 


eeeo 


CO 


eo 


S8 

eo 


13  R 

«0    CO 


?  11  g   i 


eo< 


CO 


«< 


?2 

eo 


S? 


•      •  • 

'•'CO       « 


CO 
c4 


(N 


"5       U5 

^       .-I 


W 


JOO 


8      8 


*     •  • 


C4 


S     <=>o 

OS  -H  lO 


«o 


'-'      coeo      CO 


S  o 


8 


-I  .a 

^•a  5x!  t»j2 

§—  CSS 


§8 


9%c 


S  Q-S*       K"^        S-^        y^C 

■        ® 


8 1  fag 


*l111g 


llsll|l|M!ll-l| 


5      ^      « 


—I    ^  -M  .^^  f^  .^   CO   w 


8  : 


•  o 
■CO 


ioco 


R2 


8S 


IN 


11 


i  S  §  §1     11 

«'     ei     esi     esf(N'         (N'ci 


§    ^  i  s 

CO  CO        fO        CO        (T-CO  <^ 


« 


Q.g  a,-^  o.« 

O^  0-J3  o— , 
«      «      tf 


"O      "O      "O 


o 


S  : 


o 


o 


o 


-s' 


.Sfo  :  : 

J3^  :  : 

-•d 

Sg  8 

"SI  J'S 

§^  '  o 

5  ©  ^  ;  5 

"lo*®  :~ 

o -fa  w  •  o 

•Sloe's 


:oJ 


o     o  o 


o 


o 

00 


CO 


o 


o 


o 


o 


■§ 


o 


o  o 


•^     W     fe 


« 


O*    o     -<     <;u 


««< 


I>-     ■^ 


N 


?2    2g    S       S§ 


?i 


%    S 


M 


«e4     ^ 


—  ■       S     2 


g 


25         t^oo     CO 


r«     ;o     r^ 

s    «    ■* 


o     o     oso 


t>.       poo       t-4       ■* 

O       CC  00       0>       OS 


i  I     ill  i     S 


eo 


S      g    g    :ss?   8   S?    83   g    S    5   s    ?? 

eo  ^H         ^^         ^H  ^^         ^H         ^M         *-t  ^M         ^M         »H         ^^         »^         ^^ 


•        « 


•        • 


•        •        •        • 


S       2§a    I 


N 


5:2SS58£i8    282i8 

1-1  C»  »-I^H  «  .-I  0»-«  ^-  l-«  »H  O  -4 


i  I 


^  CO  CO 


9 

1-4 

eo 


R 


^  CO       CO       CSC*        CO 


00 

eo 


CO 


8 


00 

CO 


5 


OS 


o 

»i5 


o 

74 


>» 
.Q 

•d 

o 

QQ 

u 


S     S          ?1?2S      S          S      36      S     5!          ^      CO      ^«      «      »      eoco      co      -«<      eo      eo      co        O 
.        .  ....  ....  ^ 


lei 


SSg       SSS5SSaSSSSS88 

C$         ?)         vH  ^4         1-4         1-4-4         ^4         r4         w*r^         ,H         ».4         1-4         tH         1-4 


1^       1-t 

o     o 

IN      ci 


^<  1.H  1-4 
1-H  T-4  -^ 

ooo 


^H      ■*      ■*      t"  ^      ?J      ac  ^< 

g    S    53    S       i    S    SS 


s  ii  i  s 


i 


N   N 


ooo     © 


8      8    8    88    8 

1-4  ,^  1^  1-4  1-4  1-t 


S  t>.  S 

»      oc-      t- 


I 

M 


CO 


CO  COCO      eo 


N     e«     «     1-4 


f9«^       e»#      WW       rt*^ 

eo      eo      eo      CO 


w 


S    8! 


<o 


Sir      0*00 
•«<       eooo 


nU        '        «4«A»      »•      <*•      »•<•*      «*•      c4*      <*•      !*•      H»      j'ljn 

CO   eo   eoeo   eo   eo   eoco   eo   eo   eo   co   co   eo^ 


S  13  ^    - 

O  S3  Q'y, 

°l-'§     : 

do  ft© 
£  pS  fta   • 

-.  WIS  to  08    • 

K   tt        : 


•d 

c 

C8 


:.^8^i 

.  ^  ^  •^  ffi 

:8§8S    ^ 
:  ft*3  o^    "S 

8i2  2^     o 
.-,252    -d 

■  -3    ~3 

■  fto  ftS      s 
lo-d^o-d^     © 

'dXiSx!'^  ©  ft 
-.1:;  wS;  tc-f^  o- 


§ 

•d 

oT© 
=  © 
mid 

be  03 

2  8 

8r- 

:S8 

©  c.^ 


i  §8 

•d    2*- 

I  il 

fto   ft^£3 

ol!  8  ©  . 

*^  ©  +5        © 

©"^  ©^  fl 
-o  ^.^^  o 

£5£g^ 


•O  3 

s  © 

C8  iQ 

I  8 

A  4J 

1  8.8 

8  §•- 

4->  -M    © 

82£2 

^  P4 


III 

©     l^      ® 

III 
I    ©-I 

■d  ft©jQ  ©  ft$ 
g2.-22P 
1-3    (<    M 


a    S    -o 
to    a.    a 

2   -n    a 

*"  4J  -. 

I     I     I 
PI    I 

isi  8 

©. 


®     A     "d 
^     ©     S 

1    8    1 

^  4J  iM 

©      ID    .® 

8  .;  i*^  8 


.2    «> 
•d    "d 


•  •  • 

o  o  o 

•  •  • 
I     •  • 


o 
•d 


1 

(>4 


8*1 

ftS,o  ®  ft®  -d 
8§aS§2    : 

tf     1-3 


o     o     o     o 
•d    "d    "d    "d 


ddoodoooooddo 
•d    "d    -d-d    "d    "d    "d-d    -d     "d    -d    -d    "d 


S 
^ 


o 
-d 


ooo 
'd'd'd 


o 
•d 


OD 


o  »  o 
•o  «  -d 

:  ^  : 


..a 
©"S 

■  CO 


o 


I 


^  H  (Sea 


o 


3 
O 
QQ 


1  I 


QQ 


<{  PQ    W-<0  U    m  ft  PQ  ^    o  «  go  •<  <     •<«  •<  «  «  ►J  -< 


UJ 


{3  tS   :SS8 


eo 


5ii§SSS      ^?SKi§S5    5lS$S588S 


-••• 


112 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


113 


1 

d 

"■4 

§ 

1 

d 

g 

I-) 

O 

OD 

H 
00 

O 


O 

ao 

oi 

:?: 

N 

o 

Q 

OS 

CO 
QD 
O 

hJ 

02 
O 

1-4 

o 
a 

Ph 
Q 

< 

o 

05 

(^ 

O 

1-4 

1^ 
H 

o 


t3 

Q 
O 

o 

00 

O 

s 

H 

e3 


Q 

o 

H 

O 
O 

Q 

:z 

o 

o 

c 


o 
o 

CO 
CO 

W 


fl  o 


o 

h3 


^2     e* 


o 


CO         •«*"• 


S 


a 
o 


084^ 

o  o 
E-io 


■5 

CO 


!3    S 


S    82    S 


^ 


£  *  o  « 
•3  o  'S  Si 


S 


CO-* 


sg  i^  ^ 


12;    a 


©fe& 


o  © 

ft 


3    S 
;?    a 


I 


£ 


p 


CO 


.0  >  ^ 

w   a 


CO      sp»^ 


»n     wo     o 

CO       CO  CO        CO 


•*        0006 
00       0)00 


CO         -H^         c<l 

esi     ^01      35 


04  »H  .—  f-l 


00  o> 

2g 


5?     ©«      CO 
t^       0505       » 


e«     0*0)         ^ 


ss 


I 


cO< 


I  I     I 

CO        CO  CO 


CO      coco      CO 


o 


-J 

ftu 
53  T3 


ftd      ® 


« 


OS  +^ 


ft     X)  c^ 


1-^ 


.'Sl'S'Slo* 

*j  ."S  -u  .-i;  ii  -o 


o      00 

73       T3T3 


T3 


O 

I— I 


OS 


00 
CO 


CO 


s 


o 

I-l 


0>i 


2 


eo 


00< 


"5 


CO 

eo 


oo.-< 

CO.H 


S 


CO 


o 
eo 


CO 


05  iC 


Si 


s 


c4 


CO  jD 


e* 


g 


C4(<4 


C» 


4, 

CO 


eo 


eo 


s 


o  o 
-co 


3 


o  o 


^ 


tf     O^         W     CQQ     O 


S    SS    $ 


2:32  : 

3  §5  : 
~    <»  : 

:««-.-  • 

•- o?  : 


0.2  .V 


ill 


-^  ,d  "  tl 
£•3)©-^) 

•^  go 

r^"®"— "ft 
^6$o 


® 


"Of! 


'8 


^ 


-c-S 


•§ 


<f^ 


CO 


s 


The  tables  show  that  some  styles  having  the  same,  or  practicaDy 
the  same,  net  cost  have  different  retail  prices.  This  difference  is  due 
principally  to  the  fact  that  some  retailers,  owing  to  the  large  amount 
of  then*  business  or  to  their  very  efficient  organization  can  afford  to 
sell  goods  at  a  smaller  margin  of  profit  than  others. 

Alter  the  first  lot  of  any  style  of  hosiery  is  made  the  manufacturer 
of  course  knows  the  quantity  of  each  kind  of  yarn  that  was  used  in 
knitting  one  dozen  pairs,  and  therefore  is  able  to  figure  closely  the 
cost  of  the  yarns. 

Manufacturers,  even  those  who  are  most  unsystematic  in  cost 
accounting,  are  able  to  tell  what  is  the  cost  of  the  direct  labor  per 
dozen  pairs  of  hose.  They  can  easily  do  this,  because  practically  all 
direct  labor  operations  are  performed  by  pieceworkers. 

In  the  case  of  overhead  charges,  including  indirect  labor,  however, 
the  cost  per  unit  had  to  be  apportioned. 

The  salaries  of  active  officers  or  partners,  or  the  amount  that  indi- 
vidual owners  would  have  paid  for  services  which  they  themselves 
performed,  were  entered  under  indirect  labor,  administrative  expense, 
or  selling  expense,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  services  performed 
by  each.     Under  the  latter  head  all  expenses  of  selling  were  included. 

The ' '  overhead  "  charges  on  all  units  specified  in  this  report  were  com- 
puted according  to  a  uniform  method  called  the  ' '  dual  method,"  which 
IS  explained  in  a  section  of  the  report  headed ' '  Simplified  cost  account- 
ing'' (p.  156).  The  '^overhead"  for  indirect  labor  and  for  factory  ex- 
pense was  computed  on  the  basis  of  the  direct  labor,  and  the  '^overhead' ' 
lor  administrative  and  selling  cost  was  computed  on  the  selling  price. 

The  labor  cost  of  the  units  specified  in  Table  50  was  on  the  basis  of 
wages  paid  from  March  to  July,  1914,  but  these  differed  little  if  any 
from  the  wages  paid  during  1913.  The  cost  of  the  materials  used  in 
the  specified  units  was  on  the  basis  of  the  cost  of  materials  from 
March  to  July,  1914,  which  was  about  the  same  as  in  1913  for  cotton 
and  cotton  yarns,  but  slightly  higher  for  wool  or  woolen  yarns. 
The  ^'overhead"  charges  on  the  units  were  computed  on  the  basis  of 
the  overhead  expense  in  the  establishment  during  its  previous  busi- 
ness year,  which  in  most  cases  was  the  calendar  year  1913. 

An  examination  of  Table  50  discloses  a  great  difference  in  the 
profits  on  the  garments.  This  difference*  occurs  on  garments  of  the 
same  grade,  and  even  on  garments  of  practically  the  same  grade  made 
by  the  same  establishment. 

The  losses  on  some  styles  which  are  shown  in  this  table  may  be 
explained  on  two  grounas.  Some  establishments  have  such  crude 
systems  for  computing  their  "overhead"  charges  that  they  do  not 
know  exactly,  or  even  approximately,  how  much  their  profit  or  loss  is 
on  certain  grades  Sucn  unsystematic  establishments  may  con- 
tinue for  a  long  time  to  sell  a  particular  grade  at  a  loss  without  know- 
ing it.  Some  establishments,  however,  knowing  accurately  what  a 
certain  grade  costs,  wiU  sell  it  on  a  small  margin  of  profit,  or  even  at  a 
loss,  for  the  purpose  of  attracting  custom  for  more  profitable  styles. 
An  establishment  may  find  it  necessary  to  carry  a  complete  line  of 
styles  in  order  to  meet  the  demands  of  its  customers  ana  to  hold  its 
trade,  and  may  consider  it  to  be  good  business  policy  to  sell  at  or  below 
cost  certain  styles  to  customers  who  wiU  buy  higher-priced  goods  on 
which  a  good  profit  is  reaUzed.  Examination  of  the  table  shows  that 
losses  were  nearly  all  on  the  grades  of  low  or  medium  price. 

0903°— 15 8 


I 


114 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


115 


g 


CD 
« 

n 

8 


O 
Q 

g 

SQ 

s 

o 

» 

o 

s 

iz: 
o 


00 
00 


-  GO 


QQ 


O  ^     -S 


t  2 
E  CO 


£ 


S 

§ 

H 

QQ 


O 

g 

o 

£ 

o 
o 


e3 


o 
a 

CO 

s 


I 
§ 

"S 
1 


2 


& 

♦a 
■♦J 

s 


<5 


CO 


03 
H 

o 

s 

I 


e 

8 


S 
i 


ffiiS 

£-1 

to  O 

a 


o 


I 


s 


s 


g2 


fe 


S 


M  CI 

to  00 


a 


a, 
•♦a 

o 


CO 

O 


§§ 


lO  fH  (O  >o 

eo  ■*  Ih  !>. 

t^  r-  -^ji  'St 

>d  u5  m5  eJ 


s 


o 


c4 


e4 


i   P   i 

F>     a>     00 
*4     d     c4 


QO 


2S 


SCO  00 


a> 


s 


S     S  §  § 


tA 


tA         —4 

u5       V 


g^ 


e3         5 


$  ^ 


O  ^ 

£>  O 


CO        <D 


00 

o 


JO       tj  OS 

00     t>-  t>. 


■tiA  CO 

W  —  'S 
»  o*5 


£.1* 


ffi  a 


£«  « 


^r  o  c  OS 


3     S 
^     a 


a 
o 


a> 


s 

a 

•* 

t>. 

c^ 

• 

^ri  e4 


^       CS)       M       iQ 

s  s  i  i 

c4     CO     e4     rH 


S 


sg     s 


N 


CO 


« 


s 


gl 


o 
o 
o 


s 

eo 


s 

eo 


o 


eo 


lO 


eo 

CO 


eo 


O)  00  ^  r« 
<-j  t^  to  ^ 
«o     ■<•<     o>     t>. 


•d     ci 


eo         o 

op  •— * 


i 


eo 


oi     eo     eo 


eo 


s 


<<GO 


«5    c4 


o 
o 

00 


c4        ^ 


»o 
eo 
eo 


eo 

ej 


_  •  •  • 

N     eo     eo 


i 

CD 

* 

eo 


S         S         XSI      SS         ^   8^    «$ 


§^ 


e^ 


§^      ^    ^    g^      S^ 


e§8 


■2  # 

^.1 


ID 


1=1 


8  if 


•.!1 


a> 


-  •;:  t3  _i  «  -a  -C 
CQ     >H     r/} 


V  01 

t/1 


_3   ^fl   M 


w 


o  5.W)5  i 
o  4)  3  o;:3  — 


CO 


§"8 


& 


_^      a>_  »  S 


m 


a 
c  o 

OS 

o 


2o-o 


-  rt  «  -  «j2  3  o^ 


S'OjS  3  O  3  O 


o 


o  o 

73 -O 


o 

•CJ 


3 

a 

o 


o 


o 


o 
•d 


o 


3 
1^ 


o 


o 


o 
•d 


S 
g     o 


o 
•d 


S3 


o 
•d 


o  o 
-d-d 


o 
-d 


o     o     o     o 
"d    "d    "d    "d 


o 
-d 


o 
-d 


pq 


H 


pq   <j   *«j   o 


o 


M 


o 
•d 


o     o     o 

•d    "d    "d 


o 
•d 


<   n   o 


W 


(O 


00 


00  t" 


00 


CS       «D       <N       eo 


eo 


t^ 


o 

H 
H 

O 

UJ 

>-} 

CQ 

o 

Ui 

,^ 

QQ 

CO 
OQ 

Pd 

)-] 

< 
w 

CQ 


R 


o     ^ 


s 


N 


s     s 


s 


eo 


eo 


Jo 


CO 


S! 


Ci|-4 


cocjeo         >-< 


o         »o 
c4         -h' 


1-1  w  eo<-i  < 


r-1  O  OC 


SI 


eo 

Si 


<D 


eO(N  'OfNO 


CO  CO  o>  to     v-4  00 

^^cp  '-'      eo  N 

N      eO  1-H 


s 


2S 

00  ■*• 


SCO 

>>o  ■* 


SI 


•  • 


o 


o 


c« 


3 


s 


» 


•o 

1-1 
eo 

CO 


s 


CO 


<% 
o 


CO 


eooooo  p> 


«o     00 


s 

r^ 


C»l-4 


eoeoeo  »h      »h  »-< 


(CM 


» 


eo 


eo 


CO 


COi 


eoeoeo  f-n      i^  i-h 


o 

CO 


i? 


4, 

CO 


eo 


eoeo 


IT 
C^^( 


o 

7 


CO  CO  CO 


eo 


O 

I 
eo 


k 

^ 


•difl 

§^  • 


«i'^i2 

fc.  o  5 
03  5  o 


a- 


sa.'d 

w  a 


e 


=3i32S 

Ah 


.3  K 

qr_~ 

•d.3 
« 

II 

•d  ®*j 

Sea 


•    1 
.3  e  Q<   ',3  qT 
6&r  o    !  ac  5 
,3  CO  CO    •X!*' 

®        ®  *  $ 

o£  bco  5-3 
3  3     —"■2 

o  ^  „-  o  d  -d 


-d 

c 
o 


<0 

® 

,3  0*5 


,jl5||l 

IC:  c»  c3:3C;  en 


'  CO   ^ 


•2     is 


•d  ® 

a;  — 

3<'- 

II 


-  "2.2,3 

®      ,•« 

CQ     .CQ 


-    •  ® 


.af  g2.d 

r*  CO  OS--::; 
P4 


f|« 


o 
•d 


^ 


•§ 


•      « 


a  :  : 
3  •  • 

Ot3t3 


o     o 

•d     -d 


o 

-d 


o 

•d 


S 
^ 


N! 


•d 


000 

•d'd'd 


o     o 

-d    -d 


o 

73 


p^ 


P5 


f>^<         OWft 


n 


<5 

»o 


■CO 


o> 


CD  00 

«0  '•I 


CP 


eooooj 


c» 


116 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


117 


00 

o 
o 

Q 

OQ 

(A 
H 

m 
n 
o 

o 

Q 

o 

00 

O 

w 

o 

00 

« 

H 
N 
O 
P     ■ 

-« d 
S  o 

^   I 

00 

fid   H 

°S 

sw 

o 


55 

o 

t-t 
00 


o 

X 

o 

S5 


55 
O 

H 

13 

Q 
O 

05 

O 

00 
O 


H 

n 
H 


be 

S    00 

S  o 
go. 


3 


ION 


(-1 


OOt— -^lO        CO        — <  OS 
>0  CT<  CO  -*"        •^        ■^  t- 


o 


o 

CO 


o 

H 

O 

o 

GQ 
QQ 

GQ 


2 

03 

a 

In 

K 

*^ 


3 


»-i  1— I -r  o  r--       00      us  < 

00  »C  C^  fO^        »H        SB  ( 

«0  icciecf      ■*      N< 


IS 


00iO< 
(NCO» 

oo< 


.sa  « 


■4^  « 


St--  a>  CO  CO      eo      'X «  ■* 

>0 1^  ^  ■^        «0        1-t^  y^ 

1-H  i-HONi-H         1-4         OO  t-t 


i-l         >-li-<  O 


oo 


2  £  o  S 
•O  o  o  ft 


e  o 


0  S  >-> 

03  P,P< 
J?  3  ® 


w  9  JO 


i^S2 

,r*  C5  o  rt 
O-c-O  ft 


^       ® 
g      ® 

55    a 


§ 


08,£3  rl 


t^?P        ;Dt^  00 
■<!»<»        tCift  CO 


U 


eo 


S^ 


lo  oo»c 
r^  fH  *  r-- 

CO  ^  CO  eo 


10  «>Oi-i  N      i-i 


88 


00 


oo< 


IW3 
)  t^ 

lOl 


OJOi 


eo 


>0( 


cot 

eo( 


nNi-««'4'  -•«      -^^      «*■  jw 

CO  CO      eo      CO      CO  eo 


88§5 


S?   1^ 


,C3  CO 

ft® 
II 

-a  ®  -u 
^  CQ  ra 


3 
o 


•a 


60S 


%s. 


fto8 

O  (D-d 


2  C   o   - 


t^  00     OS 

0<N       O 


t*        OOt^        CJ 
S        00^        00 


000     01 


cO^       t>- 


1^  Q-f      •<*<co^      -<c      wos      «5     55^      to 

!  ■*  COCO      eoeoeo      ?!i      -^i-i      «      «i-i      N 


00  COiC'^CO       00       5tt»  i-iC^       •g<t^.-i       eo       OS^       >i5       oocp       OS 

CO  -rr^QCci      t^      Qbo  osco      peoi-i      -r      t-Q      o      iNO      ^~* 

oi  t^co'^co      >o      *Tt<  •*eo      ^-^eo      <<%      N«      c5      coco      eo 


O  QQOQ       Q       QQ  ><?"5       iC>OQ       CS       QQ       Q       "?Q       "9 


>Oi-ic<i      1-1      SP95  oow      eoeoQ      00     imos      »h      inus      ^ 

fh  i-H  <©      CO      « CO  1-1  ai      35 » 00      !:•      "5  CO      eo      e5 -^       oo 

100^       ^        ^CO  OwS       OSOdOs       0>       OSOs       OS       OSOs       00 


^8 


.-IN        (M        (M<N        c^ 

II     r    r  I     I 

00  CO      CO      CO  CO      CO 


-.„  ®  ®.2-, 

X5  —  J^  ,£!  ,^3  ^ 
,Q  ft£^  ftg 


'f-(  '^^  A* 


d 


®  00  o     o     00 


00     000 


o     00     0000 


CO 

03 


o  o 


000 


i2    hS    H     :S     : 


® 

>> 

<< 

fQpQpCJ^      <      fi«< 

-<Q    opqo    «    pq-<    rt    Opq 

« 

cc 

OS 


iJ5oo^«5     »o     ■<<oo         NC^     ««•<*      CO.  ■*«     ^      •"♦CO     eo 


coco 

f  eo 
00 


-r  CD 
QC"5 


CON 

eooo 

NN 


CO  00 

00  00 


iC  ( 

1^  I 

or  I 


1^  ( 


I       I 


OS 

3 


I— ( in 


00       -ooo 


N-^  ao 


eo 

8 


N        t- 

r^      00 

O       1-1 


N  O 

8= 


CO 

s 


i 


CO 


N 

O 


00 


NOO 

1—1  ^N 
00 


8  s 


CO 

00 


1-H  OS  ^ 


2 


eo 


o      t- 


U5        •^CO       OSWOC'r-i        NcD       OS        r- 

t^      «D-^      os-'fooo      ccoo     r~      o 
ic       coco       -CcOCOiC       iC-^       f       'f 


OS     10 

eo    ic 


r^oo 


N 


COf-        »C        t^        1-1 

I-  ^      CO      CO      CO 

CO     000 


N         CO 

o     o 


r^      N  00      CO  ifs  oc  eo 

i-N        10  N        ■>J<  »C  ■5<  1— < 

o     00     0000 


COt^        »-t        ■^ 

SCO        1-1        »-l 
000 


N 


8 


osa 


s 


00 

o 


8    2 


ift    »-(    i-t 


«5<N 


"*      O      1-1      rt      CO      o      66«i5      i-H  r-^  00  do      t^  06 

1— I      1— I      i-i      ©      »-i      O      o  i-<      1-1  o  o  o      00      o 


OS-fCO-* 

I  r~  0000      t^  i 


N       N       t^       ^ 

t;.         00        -.»<        O 

O        1-1        1-1 


eo    t^  ^  eo  O 

1-N     1— )  ^  N  i^H 


CO 


iC        »C       "5        I-l 

OS      OS      r^      O 

.-I        N        ^        N 


CON       ■»»< -H  CO  00       coo       CO       O 

trS      ooot^co      «5oo     N     "5 

ON        1-1  N  0 1-1        O  >— I        i-t        f-t 


OO 

*^ 

CO 


S 


lOOS  CO 

OS  •— I  »— I 

OD  CO  CO 


as 

»-i 
0 

0^ 

S 

g 

5 

f5 

-r  N 

•V 

N 

CO 

eo 

CO 

N 

CO- 


JOO^CO         rH  t>.  CO         »-l  >-l 

j-^O'^      icoo     t^      eo      eo 
ico'^eo      co<-i      N      ^N      10 


S     CO 
OS     06 


OS"* 

i>-o 


^ 


il5S    8888888    88    888S    88    8    S?    g    § 

—  .-H  1-1  ,-1  ,-1  ,_(  ,.H  1-1  ,-1  1—1,^  ,_!  ,_(  ,^  ,_|  rH  i-H  ,-H  O  1-H  1-1 


o 

8 


oo 

8^ 


CO 

(H 


(h 


S    2 


o 
t^      t^      t^ 


1-1      eo     CO  i-H     t>.  CO  f  I 

S-^      -♦<«»;      cocoos" 
CD       CO  CD       CO  CO  »fi  < 


■O        »<3 

1  OS       t^ 


O       OS 


i-H       I-H 
00     t>. 


lOio  00 

1-1 0  OS 

t>.t>.  CO 


S    cS    8    8    {2    S 

t-         t^         t>»         !>.         CD         CO 


)  iC      o  o      ^      *c 
11^     35  c5      00     N 


OS 


ig 


n 


-H  N  1-H  rH  1— I 


CO       CO       CO       O       CD       CD       O       •"»"  O       CD  CD  •»r  O       -^  O       cO 
CO      OS      CO      00      CO      i~-      CO      00®      coeoooo      ooo      i- 

1— II-Hl-Hi-Hi— li-Hl-H  I-H  1-H  I— I  N  1— (  1-1 


N 

CO 


I        I 
eoej      CO      CO 


I 

CO 


CO 


I 

nw 

1 

1    t 

1 

CO 

CO 

coco 

CO 

CO 


I 

CO 


s 


CO         CO 


N     N 

CO     CO 


CQ  CO 


N 


2 

"o 

cc 

CO 

u 

'3 
ft 


o 

T3 


® 

u 

— H 
ft 


hi 

O 

a 


d 

OS 


3 
O 


® 
o 

fto 
-d 

fteS 
o  — 


® 

•—4 

,Q 

d 
o 

-o 

oT 
o 


® 
o 

®  « 

fto 
"td 

ft03 


g   ® 

<S>  -H 


ft© 

..d 

ft08 
O— I 

®  .  O  »M 
ft®,©  ® 
©  ©X!"S 


,© 

3 
© 

© 


-3 

d 

03 

•-H 

®  -o 
"S  ® 
d     r: 

o       ft 

•3       fe* 


d 

e8 


O 

-3 


® 

O 


P^ 


•3      -3 
®     .  ®     . 
d.®  ft® 
O  ©  ©  © 
©•^  ©•" 


-® 


"3  c 
®  53 

o  aj 
©-^ 

-H  o 

.~co 

-c-d 
«  « 


■3 

d 

03 

® 

® 

,d 

-3 

8 

ft 
en 


®  e 

25 


® 
5 

•3 


-3 

d 

03 

— ^ 
® 
® 

-3 
® 

ft 

CO 


-3 

d 

03 


•3 

d 
ea 


<s  ® 

o  o 

js  .d 

•3  T) 

%  I 

S  "3. 


•3 

d 

03 


«  ■  ft 
®  O  ®  © 
©+a        ©■)■» 

■3*3      "3    •      "3  "3 

®  ®    .  ®  ^3  ®    ."3  ®    . 

ft  ft®  ftt?  ®  fta>  ®^  CD 

o  ©  ©  o    ;  ^  o  ©  ^.Q  ©  _  ^  ^ 


® 
© 


■3 
e 

® 

CO 

ft 
© 

,  ®    . 

2  © 


11 


8* 


® 

x: 


8 
id 


®      o 


©Ta  6        .S  ®  8 


ft® 
o  ® 

« 

■M 


e 
©^ 

® 

®'d 
«*  5 

^•3 
®  ^ 

CQ 


^•3 
-®  ^ 

ft^ 

CO 

00*3    - 


•-H      tt)— ^ 


.3  C  te 
to  O  ^ 


® 

O)       0-3 

I  ill 

*8-2^-arg2£S 

o+i    -CS  oii  o»-H 
CQ 


-  ®  ^  ft'2 


.d  n 


COCQ 


oo 

3T3 


O 
73 


O 
•3 


O 
•3 


O 


o 
-3 


^ 


o     ©  o 

"3  .    '3'3 


o  o  ©  o 

"3  "3  "3  "3 


o  o 

rev 


o 


•     X3       'Si       -Si 

"^S     §     S     d     „     s 
:W     5     W     5     W     !? 


^'  03  *s 

5  >>  5 

"3  o  "O 

:  n 


d  • 
® 

i  ° 

^®  "3 


O  O 
TSrs 


s  g  •§ 


© 

•3 


o  ©     o  ©  o  o 

'U  nj5      'u  ^3  '^  1^ 


■J5         • 
■  W     S     K 


o 

•3 


O 

•3 


■^     O 


o  © 
•3-3 


O 

-3 


^QOOpQQ<-H<pqop5     <i-<P5««!     <;<j     P5     <»i     w     PQ  Q  o 


P^PQ 


«!$    8    J;    S    3S    S    §    £;;    S§    SSSS5    S2    R    a   a 


^     ^ 


CO 


iS      SI 


118 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT   BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


119 


CQ 


a 


e 

3 

.a 
t 

o 

o 

Eh 
H 

o 
o 

crT 

03 
02 


§1 

3^ 


11 


S 

Oh 


§ 


■*    ®      r>.      « 


00 

s 


s 


eS 

P. 

a 
o 

(1 


o 
Eh 


■8 


a  ^    2    gj 

<0    ^       U3 


gJ      IS 


«5 


CO      t-    OS      St£} 

o>     o>   ^     ©ooo 


s  s  s  s;     a     8 

i-l     i-H        tH        1-H  1-4  rH 


Ol-H 


00     «o  »ro 

O        ..H  1-1  h» 
1-4         I.H  i-<  O 


s 


U5       CO     C<        t-       ■«* 

05         'H      Q         CO         »H 


S 


s     ss 


eo     w     ec     t9    y?     »c^Qg 
1-1       1-4       i-H       CO  "    ~ 


o>     tc  w>o 


^    S  I    S   J: 

CO       CO     «        ^        .H 


8    S8S 

^        CO  ^  ^ 


s 


•«->  CO 

ti  08  E 


©     «   t>.     ^     o 

t^      00    00      t»      f- 


t- 

sg 


^25 


f-r    to 


cor^o 


s 


•Egg 
«  S  P< 


;s 


S   ^  ^   SQ  s   ss;^ 


o 


o> 


^       CD    <0       ^       cO 


M 


s 

« 


^  Jt    SRI 

(3i     0>       05  OK 


•r  «  o  03 

p< 


)«5o  ooSe  S  ( 


»H  C<|  1-1  Ci  T-l         »-l         l-l  <H  l-J  »H»H  .-J  i-J  ^  ^  ,-J  ^  fi  ^  ,-5         r^i>4t-< 

*^   M  p«  .&  ..  ^  .. 


CO         CO      CO 


s 


I 


I 

M 


* 


Jn      Hn      rjn      <4«   CO 

CO        CO        CO        CO 


ifSW 


CO  CO  CO 


xi 

i 

if  a 

CO 


i 


s     ^ 


03 

s 

.  O 

+*  OS 

0) 

11 

Pi 


o  « 

111 
111 

*3g 


3  e 


81 


I 


^  a'" 


fe:-2_*»  «  o  o 


;Sii«  §.2^-73 


'2 


£ 


^S  S-§2  i 


a-a^*^"^-^ 


^      5 


e  « 


fill 


^ 


o 


9  e 

OQQQ 


P^ 


© 


o 


o 


^ 


O 


o  o 

•CO 


o 


4 


'S 


o    o      © 

•O    73      "O 


3 
O 
CO 


o 


:'f^ 


•QQ 


I 

2S  — 5 


"v   "O      '0'3 


SS 
H 


•% 


o 


^^' 


•o-S 


9/ 

x: 


.o 

3 
O 


o 

T3 


3 
O 
CQ 


cc 


m    o  o    o    pn 


» 


n 


opq 


H    u    pq    (»4  u    pq-<pE; 


SJ    S§       2       SJ 


00(0 


I-l         »•<      »0  l-lia«00 


i 

»         O! 

» 

• 

Oi 

:      s 

• 

1 

t 

:    3 

§ 

.002 
.046 

CO 

o 

1 

• 

• 

• 

•               •       • 

• 

3 

• 

i 

• 

i 

• 

S  Sf^   s  i  8 

05     OsOS     "-too* 


U5( 
tH  ( 

0( 


S5 

O 


l^     t-     o> 

t^      00      o 


8a»   »H      r» 
30    ■v      u? 

"3    CC    i^       0> 


o    o  o 


s 


00  ^^ 


i 


Cj      1-)      oxooo 

i    S    883 


8SS    S3    3  3 


QO 


CO     oo<£>      ^   &    9  i-H      Oeo  t»     o     t^      0>      00      ooot-i      co      oo< 

og     eOf-*      t-   05    o  ©      oocc  ^      »-i      1-1      -"T      CO      >-iOt>-      .-1      N < 


CO 


8! 


§    25 


lO      COJ 

M     eo< 


S  i  I 

CO  eo   c5 


05       00« 

;0        <©« 
(N        C0( 


in      ITS      lO      OS      05      »-iOrt      Q      eoosws      o»Q      O    t"    >5      »0      CO 

O      CO      »-•       ■^      00      ■^0»C      "35      K'g'OS      3*      O    C>l    O      CO      oS 
eo     CJ     N     N     1-1      CflNi-i      I-l      i-^o»-i      OO     i^   i-H   CO     CO     1-1 


t^  00       0»«D  i-(       «3       1-1       ^       p       OOCOCO       CO       OJC»»H       OO       O    C<    CO       »       tO 

t^i-iOJ^c<«»o-9'-»»<P.«oo«^w^t^oso5r^ 


e5     t^50 

V      po>S 


»0  l>.»-li— I  M<_  _  ,..,_.  __  _.__-_._ 

^  ^tf*      ^^  ^      ^      ^      CO      CO      CO  CO  CO      CO      CO  ^*  CO      ^j*'^      ^    i— 4    »o      co      csi 


^gSaSS      S^^      S8S88    888    8    888    8S    S 


S§    S    8 

C<       1-1        rl 


1-1'*      »o   «o 

OS  OS         03     OS 


CO     coo 
c»     OS  OS 


OS  OS  e«  00  CO  oc^ieo  o  nco< 
^  "*  ri  o*  to  CO  ^  os  *  OTr( 
OS     ob     00     r-     t^     r-t^o      o     oo< 


SQO        00    CO     »0        ^ 
oO      00    -v    1-1       -31 
«« >-o     »o  CO   •<»"     ob 


U5"30iO 
l^t^OI^ 

OS  OS  O  OS 


15     SS 


i5S§8    8    i2! 


!SS^ 


>  co- 


co 


i5 

o 


S  00 

5»  t^oo 

CJ  I-l  iH 

I  I      I 

CO  CO 


CO   S? 


8 

C>4 


CO      CO  CO 


o     o 


WW         Wt"*         WW         WWflOM'WW'         WW 


000      o      0^0      i9<0 
t»5<ir-      t^      r^oot-      «0 

i-'Ni-l        1-1        tH        1-1  C^ 


CO        CO        CO        CO  CO  CO 


CO 


-  -     fH      c^l 
CO        CC    CO     CO 


N  o 

CO  -H 

I-l  1-1 
CO 


5X3 
eS 

I'D 
03 


I   ;|  IS  I 

liltllil 
I  Jill  ^ 


i! 


j-o 


O-rt 


■a-o'S'O'O.-s'o.c'Sw'S 


1  iii  I  I  i 


S  o 

•o  © 


^^-S^i5|2-§S^ 


©  ©  *-'  ©  ©-^ 


OlOQ 


3pQ     m 


tf 


13  TJ 
i;.S!       ®  3 

s;i  I* 

"""^  .  .s 

-  ^  $  -^  — : 

TJ  ©  bcS  tscS 
■  fe*30  ®  ® 

.  ©"^  '"a 

■CO  H? 


I 


■§2g 

*©  ©^ 

I?  r;  © 

©^ 

®  i-t  © 
^©^ 

dS  v^^    © 


»*■  o  S' 
©•O  © 
02       OQ 


w  g  ©  ©  © 

©       ©       © 

?:T3^ ,n 

«»«  w  ^  w 
K     OS 


I 


^S^  © 

?      * 

■  ©  ©  " 

•OQQQ 


•2 

*  2 

^  o  ©  5b£ 
$.3x3  s"  fsc 
S  CO    •  — 


^1 

Tj   ® 

ll 

©•a 


®  g 
02  H^ 


111 

Pi 

®     « 

®  ©  " 

CQQQ 


I 


.9 


I     II 


®      ^  qT^d  9 
Ot      p^O  p.© 

;SS3^^® 


© 


©  ii  o  ©  ?•  ® 
^X3w^  ^^ 

•0       ©       © 

©S  03  3  S  3 

c  cc-rTJ.ti'a 


© 
02 


p:^ 


•2 
Tjg 

©  CO 

o  © 

«  i 
© 

^3® 
02 


O 

•a 


o  o 

•OTJ 


000 
"O    "O    "O 


© 

TJ 


©  o 

T3T3 


©       © 

TJ       TJ 


© 
TJ 


^ 


« 


•  •  • 

•  ■  ■ 
I  •  • 

•  •  f 

•  •  • 

000 

TJ'dTJ 


o 

T3 


o  ©  o 

TJTJ'O 


o  o 

TJT3 


-o  -o  a 


w 


00 

-dTJ 


•   .3 

•o  TJ  g 


© 

TJ 


1^ 


:  1^ 


^ 


o 

T3 


©       © 
T3      TJ 


.§11    .§0=1     d     6  6^    I  ©=     ©=  I  I    I    I 


02      W 


•  02 


«   <to    «<  -<  -sj      p    m<      <j    m    o    o    -<    ^n-jj    -<    pqwpq    qq    o  •<  o    <;    q 


N 


i2    5  12 


c*» 


^    ^?i 


CO      00      CO      00      1-4      t^cor^      ©      ©TTCs      •v  t» 
e4      1-1     1-1      c*     M     «-ii-ieo     «     •vcoce      con 


e^    "*    SS       ■» 
c*   t-t    CO      ft 


I 


CO 


.1 

ll 


120 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND   PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED    UNITS. 


121 


00 
p-t 

o 

Q 
< 

GD 

» 

pq 
n 
o 


o 

H 

c 
o 

H 

(B 
O 

O 

S 

<J 
CM 

H 
N 
O 

«      . 

^      1 

tf  w    o 
og  ^ 

£2  ^ 


c 

"S 
o 


O 


o 

Ph 
O 

H 


o 


D 
Q 
O 

a 
o 

Eh 

135 

o 


02 


<5 


10 


Ml 

a 

M 

ii 

0 

0 

0 

•1^ 

Oca 

a 

0 

be 

CO 

M 
O 


»— I         C3         CD         CC 

8    S    5§    8 


Si 


t>- 

•      •  I    I— I 

*  «  •  ■  • 
tit  t  i 
III     t  I 


o 

Ph 


8 


U5  OS        f 


1/1 

c3 
Pt 

a 

o 

Ih 

(V 

p< 

05 

o 
O 


U5       t^       O 


C3  -t^ 
O  O 


•«•     t^     « 


CO       O 


S      ??5!'^"3^^      «5^      2; 


CO        COOsr^O)^        00  to        CO        U3  U3        9) 


O         rH 


I 


S        2        O        •""        ^O        cOQtN'flOO       t^iQ       ^H        U50 

8    2    S    S    S    22;38S    SS    S    S2 


o  a  >>« 

»  c3  t-  23 
wi  ,^  O  G 


•a  b!- 


a> 


Q        C3        ■»!<        i-i        t-       t-l  W 1— Q)  CO        00 '9'        t--        COW 
to        to        ^        CO       CO        00-^  Mi^^        S,S        i-(        6i»H 

1—1  1-1  t-H  T-H  .-1  ,-<  ,-1  _|  _a  ,iH  1-H  »-t  f-H  l-H  1-H 


<V  O 


o  ee  S 

«  ot? 

52;    a 


Jr  o  o  c3 


O  CO 

^     a 


I 


.0  ,  j2 


^      M      CO      c^i      N      eoc<iNcoi-i      COM      eo      c^N      -< 


8 


??        I^        SS        ^        *"        5''-'^  "5  "2        coco        CD        »-(.-l         M 

g 


to    s    s    §     _.._.    _    __ 

1-H  i-H  t-H  t-H  C^i-H,~li^^  1^1-H  t-H  l-Hl-H 


oioctoo     «oo     o     00 
'OC'iocius      c^o      O      00 


o 


CO  1-H 

0  s 


?     S     cot-je^aoo 
"5      CD      t-H  00  ee  CI » 

t^        CO        »00>*  !33  QO 


2C^ 


t>-     o»co 

t^  »Oi-H 

CD        coco 


O  1-H 


CD 


O        "3 

1-H  t^ 

05         t^ 


{2 

CD 


ooi~» 


8    -^ 


S«c»o 
t^      coco 


CD 
t— ( 

CO 


CM 

J. 

CO 


CO 


00  1-H  1-H  QC  c<« 
i-H  ,—  5SJ 

•-4N 

CO 


■-■rtwU 
COCO 


00 


o     coo 


R 


P-H  I-H 

tC      iC 


t3       © 


P*H 

^   ,2 

O  as  O 

"deed 
®    «« 

00  o 
O*^  o 


s  ® 

•-^ 
1/1 

P.O 

Oi3 
"^  C 

CmS 
O  0) 

m  rt  3 
o  >,2 


CQ 


^  1 

.2  .« 

5  ® 

o  o 


•d  ® 
£  a 

O-H 


S    © 

.•d  © 

©  ©^' 


^1 

*->tC] 


e 


CO 

© 


s 


x: 
o 


o 

•T3 


O 


o 


T3   © 

i  O 
©o- 


.  I  09 

2S 

5  © 
tS  O 


®  © 

^2 

.  ©  © 

©^  ft 
o^  o 


©   . 
o  © 

Pt 

o 

o^ 

©  $ 

« 

-OS 

•  2  a 

o  ^° 


1:) 

CQ 


1? 


» 


Pill 

-d  ©J3  ^  '/i, 
©^  O)  o  © 

QQPh 


§ 
CQ 


O 

73 


§0000 

•g'dtl'C'O 


00 


,£3 
^      eg      1 


tS  o  o 


o 
•d 


o  o 

-d-d 


^ 


o.  o 


:0Q     WQQ     w        •    •        • 


o    pq    H<     <j    c^    oopciP5ft    wo    o    <{<5    O 


^    g^    g§    §^    ^    S^^S^SS    SiSS    SS    S^    R 


w 
M 

HH 

o 

Eh 

O 
O 

P 
< 

o 
o 

o 

h^ 
o 
o 

crT 

CQ 

w 
w 


S 


s 


8 


S 


Sih-  1-H 
-  ;S8 


■■s 


So 


"5       COCOCO  Qt»< 


00 
00 


8 


o 
o 


?; 


o 

t-H 

o 


ss 


00 

C«i-H 


40 


t*  O»0i-H> 

S5S8! 


05  Oi  N  ©  CO  ■*  Q  OJ      ec»H 
•>»<■«*  •«r  o  o  01 OT  lo      '^  S 

00  00  00 1>- 00 1^  t- 00     coos 


cpooc< 
«o  os»o 


o    «o 

t-l  fH  •-< 

8  •  • 


^JJ         ^_|^25,-(  ^  ,H  O  ^  t-l  t-H  t-H  t-H  ^l-H  I-HOl-t         t-lO© 


•       •       •       • 


CO 

8 


§ 


CO       00^ 

1-H  «0  -^ 

e*     e5c< 


JSga     •*'5<T«<t^o     ®  oi  »o  1-1  t-H  t-H  t-H  o     cooo     0000     sSfe 

^3eO  NNWr-l^  £>  ©  ^  t-H  t-H  1-H  1-H  (N  I-HCl  »-lfH?5  WOO 


a  • 


oo« 


CO        CO 


^^ 


OS      -I  -t 

OS        QCl- 


O      eo«s 


004 


eoeo 


2S 

o;  'O 


loooiot^co     oof  io>o«o»o»s     53©     ;*t22     SJ5J 
cocDcD'^co     CO  CO  i-H  ■^  ■^  ■^  ■^  OS     wQ     titrti     SS»! 


8 

fH 

U3 

CO 

1-H 

8 

M 

t-H 

g 

»-l  CO  i-t 


t-H»-H'^ooio  ig  »o  00  •*  t^  00 -v  CD  t^t?  SS'SStJ  SSS 
5oo*t-Heo  c5os^£jco2jc3«  cgcj  Si2f2  SSS 
oocot^'*'^      eo  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  OS      ost-n      cocot^-      ck'^o* 


>SS?8S    SSoc5c5c5(N' 


IC»^  t-H 


SiO  kO 
C>li-H(N 


©lOO 

C5  t-H  t-H 


Og 


t^C<«  00< 

loeoo* 
io«o  "i  < 


IS 

)OS 


|iO  oooo« 
)  t-..  «i5  iQ  >0  "5  < 

jocoooooooot 


coco 

COt^ 


ifH  t-4  000000 
I  coco  ©poo 
! »-« r»      i^  *  "O 


8>0  ©  ©  Q        OOkO©0©P< 
t^  io  C  O       lO  lO  r- "5  ^J  "5  "5  < 
co-otooo     osaioooooooOQO< 


>o 

>«o 


lO© 

>iO"J 


00  < 


>© 

IS 


I    I 


eij-*© 

1-H  t— I  t— I  fH 


COCO       CO  CO  CO  CO     * 


S-d 

*J  © 

sJ 

o 

.Pt© 
P<0  * 
O-^iC 

-^     © 

'd'w  ^ 
©  ©c 

r>    (1^   -^ 


o  o 

■a  73 


© 

o 


•  ©"d 

i^St© 

•  «^5®  ■  ■  1=^ 
■  o"^  ©      :  o 

:-^    .a 

O  a;  ©^5  O  O  0(0 

'd,p,2X5'd'd,£'d 

iQiQ  3  "     " 

PnPfi-d 


s 

t-H 

I 

CO 


8 

1 

I 


CC  IM  OO 


I  «CM 


c%      coco      eococo      CJC^c^ 


000 

•d'd'd 


t       I   " 

~      ♦a'd        -tJ 
Pt    •         © 

ors-d  Pt    "d 

1®S        I 

*3  Sii  ©  ©i5 
©  P  ©  ^i  S  Q> 

©-d  ©  ©  P  «   -So   ■  " 
«*««''«   :•§ 

HH        hHHH        »-H      'HH 


O 

.3 

a 

"pu 

-d 
© 
a, 

I  . 

©*^ 

"d  « 


8 
•d 

a 

o 
o 


Pt 

o 


o 
"d 


o  o 

-d-d 


00000 

"dTj  "d'd'd 


0000000 


i 


•d  "d  "d  "d -d  ^3 'd  ^ 


o  o 
•d'd 


:  :  o 

:  :^   ^ 

.S5==     iS 


o  o 
•d'd 


o  o 

"c-d 


00000 

'd'd'd'Cd 


00000  000 
•d'd'd'd'd'd'd'd 


o  o 
•d'd 


000 
•d'd'd 


o 
•d 


o  o 
•d'd 


«     KKO^O     -<cqoo<JpqfiW     Ofe     ^fifi    oWf^ 


01  o 


ooo»-<  t^ 
r^r-t^t^  CO 


t^t^l-H 


ssss 


t-H        OiO 


fH  OS       •  •  OS  OS 

t— CCV        •V  CO  CD 


I-) 

CQ 

I— I 

I-H 
I-H 

CQ 
CQ 

CO 


eo 

00 


•«<         © 

00  fH 

t-H  CO 


fH  CO 


! 

eo 


c^ 


-At 

CO 


! 

CO 


CO 


'='a©'^8^- 

— H         3  — "  5  flj 

to    ►©  w  $2 

•30  -^  5  ® 

©_  s  o  .,'2 

*^  X  P'^J   OJh 

H«1  < 


■4^fH  -t^ 

•d^ 
§•'?.«    n 

2^  Ml© 

—    •'^  S 
s?  -    "" 

^-^  ©-—' 


T^-a  8 


fell 

*^    CCi^ 
—  MoS 


•i-== 


© 


>H—     O 

SS20 


© 


—  "C— "O 


O  ©  O 


fej=2 

"C  o  S 

H«; 


.§ 


o 
•d 


o 


•s 


a 

w 


© 


a 

H 


o 
•d 


o 
•d 


m 


t^      p 


00 


2 


122 


THK   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 
COST  AND  PBOnr  OF  UNITS  SOLD  TO  lOBBEKS. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


123 


.^  Jf  f-  '^  J?  ^^^  ^""^^  '°™,  «*  '^"^^^  50,  but  it  hKowh  the  cost  of 
Cp  Il!f?'  ^-^^^  expense  and  profits  on  units  of  one  dozen  pairs  of 
tint  K  °  u  io^bers  instead  of  retaUers.  The  bulk  of  the  proSuct  in 
S  h  T„KU  t^H '"^"f*'"y  "^  «°W  to  jobber.  Comparison  o^f  Table  50 
l^hLLtt  ?7  lossy  on  a  greater  proportion  of  styles  sold  to 

Ct  fT» >    *^°"  styles  sold  to  retailer.    Ws  is  accounted  for  by  the 
fact  that  goods  are  sold  cheaper  to  ol)bere  than  to  retailed.    Joblbers 
however  do  not  receive  as  much  dis<„unt  or  time  allowance  for  pay- 
ments with  discount  as  retailers  do.    Jobbers  by  paying  for  gooJs 
vnthin  10  days  enable  the  manufacturei^  to  turn  elver  tW  nfoney 

rnS^a  T'toH""'  'r'^y  th*n  W.'l'ey  «old  to  retailers  who  paid  in 
>n  ui        '      '    ^^^  "°^  ^^^  "^  invoice. 

of  cost  «nV?^r  ^"'"  f^^f  ^?*  ^^^H  "^  ^'i^'^^  **>«  principal  items 
ot  cost  and  the  manufacturing  profit  or  loss.  The  data  for  each 
style  are  arranged  m  the  foUowing  order- 

1.  According  to  the  styles  shown  in  Table  49. 

2.  Hosiery  for  men;  hosiery  for  women. 

=«ivV,  -^'^ /*"■  '"*?!  ^^^  women,  arranged  according  to  the  gross 
T^^a'^P"^  to  retailers,  the  styles  witf  the  highest  prices  C 

kM  anH^*th  tK  ^^""^  *'"  ****^  ^"^  .^^°  "'•  '^"'■«  ^'y^^  ^f  the  samf 
nf  ^f^TfiT'  •  the  same  gross  price,  the  items  are  entered  in  the  order 
01  styles  havmg  the  highest  net  prices. 

««;^!  difference  between  the  gross  seUing  price  and  the  net  price, 
as  shown  m  Tables  50  and  51,  was  the  discomt  which  wa.s  computed 
li     %  rr^'^^/vv*'/'^  ^^^  discount  taken  by  customers  on  the  gross 

S''Cbh?htnt'Tcredi^^  '''  "^'  '"'''^^^  ^*^"'  ^-^  ^^"^^  ^^- 

Table  52.-Number  op  Units  Reported  and  Number  Sold  at  a  Profit  and  at 

A  Loss,  BY  Groups  op  States. 


Eastern  States. 

Western  States. 

Southern  States. 

Description. 

TotAl. 

Sold  at— 

Total. 

Sold  at— 

Total. 

Sold  at— 

Profit. 

Loss. 

Profit. 

Loss. 

Profit. 

Loss. 

SOLD  TO  BETAILEBS. 

Full  fashioned 

14 

........ 

20 

4 

14 
is' 

2 

2 

2 

8 

8 
62 

3 
4 

6 

8 
42 

3 
4 

2 

Seamless,  silk  or  silk  and  cot- 
ton mLxed 

Seamless,  cotton " 

Seamless,  wool  or  wool  and 
cotton  mixed 

10 

9 

9 

Seamless,  artificial  silk 

TotAl 

SOLD   TO  JOBBERS  AND  COM- 
MISSION HOUSES. 

Full  fashioned 

38 

34 

4 

1 

4 
21 

8 
1 

75 

63 

12 

9 

9 



17 

11 
55 

26 
4 

16 

7 
34 

18 
3 

Seamless,  silk  or  silk  and  cot- 
ton mixed 

1 
5 

1 
3 

Seamless,  cotton 

Seamless,  wool  or  wool  and 
cotton  mixed 

2 

38 

24 

14 

beamless,  artificial  silk 

1 

1 

Total 

113 

78 

35 

7 

4 

3 

38 

24 

14 

While  the  unit  in  each  case  is  one  dozen  pairs  of  hose  of  the  same 
style,  this  being  the  unit  that  is  known  in  the  industry,  the  usual  retail 
price  of  one  pair  is  given.  This  retail  price  was  obtained  from  the 
manufacturer,  who  usually  knows  at  what  prices  his  customers  will 
sell  the  hosiery,  and,  in  fact,  he  fills  orders  to  produce  hosiery  that 
can  be  sold  at  certain  prices  and  allow  certain  profits.  These  retail 
prices  are  the  usual  prices  at  which  the  hosiery  is  originally  retailed, 
not  the  prices  during  reduction  sales. 

Table  52  shows  the  number  of  units  of  different  kinds  of  hose  for 
which  data  are  given  in  Tables  50  and  51,  also  the  number  of  imits 
sold  at  a  profit  and  the  number  sold  at  a  loss. 

The  number  and  proportion  of  units  sold  at  a  loss  to  retailers  and 
to  jobbers  is  shown  in  Table  53. 

Table  53.— Total  Number  of  Units  Reported  and  Per  Cent  op  Unfts  Sold  at 
A  Profit  and  at  a  Loss,  According  to  Estabushments  Showing  a  Profit  or 
Loss  on  the  Year's  Business. 


Number 
of  estab- 
lishments. 

Total 
number 
of  units. 

Units  sold  at  a  profit. 

Units  sold  at  a  loss. 

Units  reported  by- 

Number. 

Per  cent. 

Number. 

Per  cent. 

All  establishments  selling  to— 

Retailers 

23 

a  44 

122 

158 

106 
M06 

86.89 
67.09 

16 
52 

3.11 

Jobbers  and  commission  houses. . 

32.91 

Total 

o67 

280 

»212 

75.71 

68 

24.29 

Establishments  showing  a  profit  on 
year's  business  selling  to — 
Retailers      .          

16 

o32 

87 
113 

80 
6  77 

91.95 
68.14 

7 
36 

8.05 

Jobbers  and  commission  houses. . 

31.86 

Total 

o48 

200 

6  157 

78.50 

43 

21.50 

Establishments  showing  a  loss  on 
year's  business  selling  to— 
Retailers         

7 
12 

35 
45 

26 
29 

74.29 
64.44 

9 
16 

25.71 

Jobbers  and  commission  houses . . 

35.56 

Total 

19 

80 

55 

68.75 

25 

31.25 

o  Includes  4  establishments  which  sell  to  both  retailers  and  jobbers. 
6  Includes  1  unit  sold  at  cost. 

This  table  shows  that  of  the  280  units  sold  to  both  retailers  and 
jobbers,  for  which  data  are  shown  in  the  previous  tables,  212,  or  76 
per  cent  were  sold  at  a  profit  and  68,  or  24  per  cent,  were  sold  at  a 
loss.  The  percentage  sold  at  a  loss  was  much  greater  in  the  case  of 
sales  to  joboers  than  in  the  case  of  sales  to  retauers. 

Of  the  280  units  reported,  200  were  sold  by  estabhshments  showing 
a  profit  on  the  year's  business.  Of  these  200  units,  43,  or  21.50  per 
cent  were  sold  at  a  loss.  It  is  very  probable  that  a  considerable  pro- 
portion of  the  units  which  were  sold  at  a  loss  by  estabhshments 
earning  a  profit  on  their  year's  business  were  sold  as  leaders  at  a  price 
Imown  to  be  below  cost,  m  order  to  induce  the  purchase  of  other  units 
in  which  a  profit  was  realized.  UninteUigent  price  making  or  reckless 
competition  are  the  only  explanations  that  can  be  offered. 

Of  the  80  units  sold  by  establishments  showing  a  loss  on  the  year's 
business,  25,  or  31.25  per  cent,  were  sold  at  a  loss. 

COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  GRADES. 

Table  54  compiled  from  Table  50  shows  the  cost  items  and  profit 
on  different  grades  of  ladies'  full-fashioned  hosiery  and  ladies'  seam- 
less cotton  hosiery. 


124 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


Table  54.— Comparative  Average  Costs  and  Manufacturtkg  Profits  op  Ho- 
siery, Based  on  Average  Net  Price  of  1  Dozen  Pairs  Sold  to  Retailers. 

LADIES'  FULL  FASHIONED,  SILK  AND  COTTON. 
[Note.— The  figures  in  the  box  headings  show  the  range  of  gross  prices  per  doaen  pairs.] 


Items. 

$21.50  to 

$8.50, 
4  styles.o 

$4.25  to 

$3.85, 

3  styles.^ 

$2.25  to 

$1.95, 

5  styles.c 

$21.50  to 

$8.50, 
4  styles.a 

! 

$4.25  to  $4, 
3  styl«¥?.b 

$2.25  to 

$1.95, 

5  styles.c 

Average  net  selling  price 

$11.64 

$3.89 

$2.02 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Percent 

100  J 10 

Net  cost  of  all  materials 

Direct  labor 

5.09 
2.65 

.95 

1.18 

1.29 
1.21 

.51 

.42 

.66 
.79 

.40 

.23 

43.73 
22.80 

8.13 

10. 13 

33.16 
31.10 

13. 11 

10.80 

32.  s2 

Indirect  labor  and  factory  ex- 
pense  

39.06 

Administrative    and    selling 
expense 

19.55 

11.29 

Total  cost 

9.87 

3.43 

2.08 

84.79 

88.17 

102.  (2 

Manufacturing  profit 

1.77 

.46 

d.06 

15.21 

11.83 

^2.12 

LADIES'  SEAMLESS,  COTTON. 


Items. 

$4.25  to  $4, 
4  styles. 

$2.40  to  $2, 
10  styles. 

$1.20  to 

$0.42.5, 
10  styles. 

$4.25  to  $4, 

4  styles. 

$2.40  to  $2, 
10  Styles. 

$1.20  to 

$0,425, 

10  Styles. 

Average  net  selling  price 

$4.02 

$2.10 

$1.00 

Percenl. 
100.00 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Per  cent. 
100. 00 

Net  cost  of  all  materials 

Direct  labor 

1.10 
.SO 

.38 

1.03 

.89 
.37 

.23 

.30 

.43 
.28 

.14 

.10 

27.36 
12.33 

9.59 

25.5ft 

42.60 
17.75 

10.76 

14.28 

43.50 

Indirect  labor  and  factory  ex- 
pense   

27.90 

Administrative  and  selling  ex- 
pense  

13.90 

10. 00 

Total  cost 

3.01 

1.79 

.95 

74. 8:^ 

85.39 

95.  JO 

Manufacturing  profit 

1.01 

.31 

ftf;                         OK    IT 

14.61 

*"•*• 

4.70 

a  One  style  of  silk  and  3  of  silk  and  cotton.  h  Mercerized  cotton.  c  Cotton.  d  Loss. 

In  the  arrangement  of  the  foregouig  table  the  data  regarding  dif- 
ferent styles  of  hosiery  are  shown  in  tlie  following  order:  High-priced 
grades,  medium-priced  grades,  and  low-priced  grades. 

Reproduced  from  Table  50  this  condensed  table  shows  data  for  4 
styles  of  ladies'  full-fashioned  hosiery  having  gross  prices  of  $8.50  per 
dozen  pairs  or  over,  3  styles  sold  at  from  $3.85  to  $4.25  gross,  and  5 
styles  having  gross  prices  of  $2.25  and  lower;  4  styles  of  laches'  seam- 
less cotton  hosiery  having  gross  prices  of  from  $4  to  $4.25,  10  styles 
having  gross  prices  of  from  $2  to  $2.40,  and  10  stvles  having  gross 
prices  of  $1.20  and  lower. 

For  each  of  the  grades  the  condensed  table  shows  the  average  not 
sellmg  price,  manufacturing  profit,  and  the  items  which  enter  into 
the  cost  of  manufacturing;  it  also  shows  the  percentage  that  the 
various  items  of  cost  and  profit  are  of  the  average  n«^t  selEng  price. 

The  percentages  of  profit  on  the  grades  of  fuU-fashioned  hosiery 
shown  in  this  condensed  table  were  not  so  large  as  the  percentages  of 
profit  on  the  grades  of  seamless  hosiery,  although  the  estabhshment 
tables  show  that  the  mills  which  made  full-fashioned  hosiery  earned  a 
greater  average  percentage  of  profit  tlian  the  mills  which  made  seam- 
less cotton  hosiery. 

On  the  high-priced  full-fashioned  hosiery  the  percentage  of  j)rofit 
was  15.21;  on  the  medium  priced,  11.83.  On  the  low-priced  full- 
fashioned  hosiery  there  was  a  loss  of  2.72  per  cent.  The  competition 
with  foreign-made   hosiery  is   ahnost  entirely  on   low-priced  full- 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


125 


fashioned  hosiery,  including  full-fashioned  hosiery  for  children  and 
infants,  which  is  little  manufactured  in  the  United  States.  This  low- 
priced  product  is  made  of  cotton  and  the  duty  on  it  varies  from  30 
to  50  per  cent  ad  valorem,  according  to  value. 

Medium  and  high  priced  full-fashioned  hosiery  is  made  of  silk  or 
mostly  of  silk,  and  the  duty  of  50  per  cent  on  such  product  is  sufficient 
to  exclude  foreign  competition. 

The  condensed  table  shows  that  the  average  percentage  of  profit 
on  the  seamless  cotton  hosiery  was  25.17  on  the  high-priced  grades, 
14.61  on  the  medium-priced  grades,  and  4.7  on  the  low-priced  grades. 

For  both  the  full-fashioned  and  seamless  cotton  styles  the  percent- 
ages of  direct  labor,  indirect  labor  and  factory  expense  were  largest 
on  the  low-priced  grades,  lower  on  the  medium-priced  grades,  and 
lowest  on  the  high-priced  grades,  the  difference  in  these  percentages 
being  considerable. 

Table  55  is  similar  to  the  last  one  except  that  the  item  of  net  selling 
price  and  of  profit  are  omitted  and  the  percentage  of  the  items  of  cost 
of  production  is  based  on  the  total  manufacturing  and  seUing  expense. 

Table  55. — Comparative  Average  Costs  of  Hosiery,  Based  on  Average  Total 

Cost  of  1  Dozen  Pairs  Sold  to  Retailers, 

LADIES'  FULL-FASHIONED,  SILK  AND  COTTON. 
[Note.— The  figures  in  the  box  headings  show  the  range  of  groSvS  prices  per  dozen  pairs.] 


Items. 

121.50  to 

$8.50, 
4  styles.o 

$4.25  to 

$3.85, 
3  styles. b 

$3.43 

$2.25  to 

$1.95, 

5  styles.c 

$21 .50  to 

$8.50, 
4  styles.** 

$4.25  to  $4, 
3  styles.b 

$2.25  to 

$1.95, 

5  styles.c 

A veraee  total  cost 

$9.87 

$2.06 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Per  cent. 
100,00 

Net  cost  of  all  materials 

Direct  labor 

5.09 
2.65 

.95 

1.18 

1.29 
L21 

.51 

.42 

.66 
.79 

.40 

.23 

51.58 
26.89 

9.58 

11.95 

37.61 
35,28 

14,87 

12,24 

31.95 
38.02 

Indirect  labor  and  factory  ex- 
pense  

19.04 

Administrative  and  selling  ex- 
pense   

10.99 

LADIES'  SEAMLESS,  COTTON. 


Items. 

$4.25  to  $4, 
4  styles. 

$2.40  to  $2, 
10  styles. 

$1.20  to 

$0,425, 

10  styles. 

$4,25  to  $4, 
4  styles. 

$2,40  to  $2, 
10  styles. 

$1.20  to 

$0. 425, 

10  styles. 

Average  total  cost 

$3.01 

$1.79 

$0.95 

Per  cent. 
100. 00 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Per  cent. 
100.00 

Net  cost  of  all  materials 

Direct  labor 

1.10 
.50 

.38 

1.03 

.89 
.37 

.23 

■     .30 

.43 

.28 

.14 
.10 

36,57 
16,47 

12,82 

34.14 

49.89 
20.79 

12.60 

16.72 

45.64 
29,28 

Indirect  labor  and  factory  ex- 
pense         

14.59 

Administrative  and  selling  ex- 
pense   

10  49 

a  One  style  of  silk  and  3  of  cotton  and  silk. 


b  Mercerized  cotton. 


c  Cotton. 


This  table,  hke  the  preceding  condensed  table,  shows  that  the  per- 
centages for  direct  labor,  indirect  labor,  and  factory  expense  decrease 
from  the  low-priced  to  the  high-priced  products. 

COST  OF  MATERIALS  IN  UNITS. 

Table  56  is  intended  to  show  in  detail  the  cost  of  the  different  mate- 
rials used  in  1  dozen  pairs  of  hose  for  which  the  items  of  cost  and  the 
profit  are  shown  in  Tables  50  and  51.  In  this  table  the  establish- 
ments that  reported  the  costs  of  units  are  given  in  numerical  sequence 
and  the  styles  of  each  establishment  in  alphabetical  order.  The  fig- 
ures in  the  last  column,  showing  the  net  cost  of  all  materials,  agree 
with  the  figures  for  the  same  styles  in  Tables  50  and  51. 


126 


THE   HOSIER \    INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND   PROFIT   BY   SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


127 


iS 

^ 

Q 

X) 

3 

.o 

5 

S 

m 

4^ 

H 

C3 

•J 

S 

>« 

H 

i 

OQ 

•o 

Q 

o 

:?: 

03 

•< 

S 

GQ 

•g 

55 

W 

5 

o 

n 

■s 

-< 

f2 

fi. 

T 

o. 

W 

08 

o 

>* 

n 

« 

^^ 

> 

« 

w 
o 

s 

w 

^ 

b 

H 

O 

r>. 

00 

»c 

h4 

•d 

-< 

§ 

Ph 

1-4 

^ 

U3 

s 

O 

" 

Q 

3 

OS 

» 

H 

H 

o 

a* 

+a 

»\ 

f, 

au 

fl 

>J 

o 

< 

kl 

K 

e 

o 

•< 

9 

^ 

a 

® 

O 

a 

9 

> 

H 

a 

GO 

o 

o 

o 

Q 

f^ 

O     go 

I.  II 

Is 


o 


2 

O 


•c 
e 

s 


OS 


CB 

1^1 


OS 

e 


Of} 


e 

03 


K- 


o 


s 

i 


00 


o 


•ia  OS 
g 

OS 

I 

"E 

« 

a 

03 

hi 
O 

CS4 


„'r  G  o  cc 
li  o  o  ih'^ 


w  g 
fj  .2 

OS'S 


£ 


OQ 


es,c  e 


«o        N       o 

S     8     i 

»    -J    -J 


g 


C»       M 


■    •    •    •      •      •        ■ 

•-I  <-H      f-4         CO 


s  i  g  i 


Oi 


o 
o 


sit  iiii  ill     s     3    i    § 


§    i    5    s    g  I  §§12 1  s  g 

5^     ^     ^ 


N     e* 


SS       2       rS       >-• 

Si    s    f3    g 


eo 


o 

8 


§  ^  iiii  i  i  2 


8 


•  • 


S       Sr       »>       t> 

Oi        or 

'S"        c 


CO  00 


s^ 


t  -    5D  ^  ©  CO    CO    eo 


e<     <N 


N  rl    >-i       eo 


S      **      "^ 

t^       «5       a> 

*  •       •  • 

C4 


iispiis§ii§isisiis§i§|||§8|||||||„g= 


S 


•^  i-i  eo  1-1 1-1 


S05 

be  bo 

sa 


cQoDaictJdaaWQci 


N   CO      • 

l!       08  «- 

§;Moa§;soSgc 


•c, 


f^ 


5.0 

'.dpLn'  ^  pJ  2c;  c^"  2  Ui  §  S  W  5f 


■^  M  o"  2  T»< 

CM 


0^ 

s 

•d 


03     " 


W  W  d  S  d  .^  oi  d  S!-W  i"S-w' g 


3  rs  X  —-  Oj  •a  *^ 
-a  D.c^  >  ;   •  C  w, 


S     8 

a>    as 

5J      <N 


e»5      ■«« 


N        31  *05  too 

a  o  e 


ooiJi 

CO  00 


e4 


00 


eo 

C9 


.=>       % 


o 


o 


o     o 


o 

T3 


o 


3  C  5  ®  O        ^  O 


g 

1^ 


a 


§ 


•2     3 

1-4        CJ 


o 


o      o     _2  o  o  o  o      o  6 


o 
-d 


o 
•d 


•d 

o 

•a 


1 

cs 

Ol 


o 
•d 


CO 

05 


3 


<{    «       Q    p       <j    pq     *<pqapy    ^^ 


m 


o    a 


Pi     ^  cs 


c«      eoeoeoeoeo      eoeo 


c^^2S£   oot^oo    pi 

^   lO   00   CD    pi   05   ^     CO 


c* 


N 


tN   t"  tr 


t*    r--   CO  A 


--  t^  e«  o>  »  3  2? 

$   ?   ^   9   :S   ^   S 


e>)  CO  '«   CO   us  r* 


c»     i-«     •-• 


pi    C« 


^   eg   -^ 
eo   © 


QO 

pi 

o 


00 


t^         o»  05        rj<pH©eocoosbpi^^ 

8       3       3      3S8SS©i©3© 


pi   eo   •*   eo 


00 


s?  s  s 

■*   eo   35 

to   00 


i 


© 

8 

c4 


© 


Pi     00 

t^   © 


o  '«•  eo 
ec  i-j  © 
■*   ©   t» 


2! 


2  8  i 


S  8  S  8  8  «  § 

^  ,-1   Pi   Pi   pi  eo   © 


©  ©   O   ©   00   go 
©©©©O©,-^^^^-.   « 

..      .      .      •      'WUU 


t>.  ©  ©  00  eo  a 

in  •^  eo  Pi  "^  Cs 

eo  ©  ■*  t~  eo  © 

N  eo  ■^  eo  lo  00 


•-1  ©  Pi  pIQOOOQ'VeO'* 

©  ©  t>-  {^©©eoto©^ 


2    8 


*  III ,     I  ' , 


C»  Pi  p^ 


*  I,  *ii,  III 


^*"  "   t     ^— 


)*St^w«|5eoS§eo§S8S«8ot^§8< 
>h-©t>»'«<pie«piaOQOpieo'>»'^«ownoot^oo>o< 


>  »o  ©  eo  £^t^  ©  S^-*  S^t^  S^N 


A  '»• «  »^  .o 


r-     eo     '«<pHeopieo     pi«5 


>e58S58S8   ^ 

leo©-*©-*©    g 


SS888888888SSS88888S888S8g88SSSS_88_8_8_8g888S88g8   o 


•*e0'J>"*>O-«>'««C»©^<'»"gQ000pi0000p1' 


"S 

9 


a 

eS 

u 

T) 


O 
X2 


o 

X5 


d 
o 
•d 


I^odpi«oaOpi-*ocpi-«<oOpi© S^© -< ^© ^•* ^oc pHa^»'*©'*o6'^    ^ 

I 


e  9 

aa 


aae-ee-aa-a 


g^i?  039  0'4'©  0©< 
eo  *^2  *  £!Z  '^  5^  "^  '^ 


^d  "^  OQ  *QfD  cioD  ©  02CQ  liW  W  W  W 


i-Ti  c>»  e<«  Pi  e«  c»  Pi  ^         ^         ^ 


bl> 


S2 

Pi  Pi;? 
ddpi" 


«  S 


bo 

i 

© 


CO 


s 


8 


00^8^ 


es 

eo 


ili 


^ 


Pi©  ®  ( 


^"''^  ^1  p^  ad  Pi  ad  Pi  ^4^3  i^i^ci" 


00^000^00^00^0 

CO. 


bo  .  u> 


.  U,.'  k. 

O  oO  o 


000000 


o 
o 


!8       S 


00 


00        N 


00        Pi 


Pi         « 


eo 


i 

© 

eo 


8    S! 
Pi    t--< 


CO 

e 


C<        CStt 


P* 


C*       Pi        -1 


eo 


t 
t 

: 

I 

■ 

■ 
• 

• 

: 

■^~' 

• 
t 

1 

a 

• 

■ 

• 
• 

• 

' 

a 

' 

• 

7i 

S 

a 

c 

d 

• 
• 

0 

4 

d 

c 

a 

1 
• 

0 

• 
f 

0 

1 
0 

c 

• 
• 

0 

c 

d 

r 

d 

9 

a 

6 

^ 

9 

a 

c 

s 

•d 

•d 

•d 

'd  9 

•d 

•d 

•d 

•c 

•d 

c 

•d-d 

« 

•d 

0 

•d 

xj 

," 

S 

s 

: 

t 

if 

• 
t 

S 

• 

• 
• 
■ 

; 

is 

S 

• 

!!t 

0 

is: 

:^ 

• 
• 
• 

• 
• 

^ 

• 

i 

, 

• 

• 
• 

• 
• 

• 
• 

• 
• 

• 

c 

'     d 

« 

c 

0 

h 

• 
t 

0 

• 
t 

0 

c 

• 
1                         ■ 

0 

c 

•       • 

0  0 

C 

• 
t 

0 

i 

0 

r 

>     c 

c 

T 

)    -d 

•d 

•c 

•d 

•d 

•d 

•c 

>        -d 

•c 

•d-d 

•c 

•d 

g 

•d 

•C 

t 

1   Tl 

• 

s 

• 

• 

t 

^ 

• 

t 

M  : 

I 

• 

t^ 

• 

; 

m 

k 

B     -<     PQ     O     Q 


W-< 


n 


» 


^ 


uj    P50     Q    W     ^     CQ     -«i    m    o 


i 

Si 

§ 
I 


o 


o 

CQ 


X! 

o 


•d 
1 
2 

o 
•d 
9 
a 

o 

I 

a 

eo 

s 

i1 

o 

a 


I 


© 


t^oo 


00 


oe 


00 


00 


00 


©© 


© 


-1      e«     c* 


es 


128 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


129 


■♦J 
a 
o 

'1 

m 
m 

Q 

H 
H 

n 

i-t 

n 
-< 

n 

00 

o 
W 

o 

OQ 
l-l 

"•J 

p^ 

S5 
H 
S3 

O 

oT 

< 

< 


O 
H 
O 


O 

90 


H 


OS 

a 
o 


cs 

a 


o 


« 

p. 

a 

9 
H 

O 

-a 


T5 


e 

OS 


.S3 

®  ®  w 


=1 
o 
u 

CO 


e 


xn 


a 

03 


®     • 

■eg. 


® 
O 


00 


CO 

§ 


> 


^  O 

-t-a 

OS 

C 

"E 

c 

s 


t>  o  '-'■3 

P.T-*     P,g 


1^ 


°§ 

•Si 

08*- 
« 


OQ 


wa 


eor^oOTO  O      O      OS      00 

8000  I— I          — H          t-t          o 

000  0000 

•        •••  •                 •                 ■                 • 


■*e30i»c 

to  «C  ^  l>- 
•— I  to  •^  »-( 

s  ■  *  ' 


O       OS        e<5       Q 

<-i      t^      evi      00 
IC      OS       •*       •* 


oco< 


s 


»C  COOS  1—1 

>— I  CO  eci-i 


OS        CO 

1—1        ?C 

OS      eo 


s 


55 


O 


o 


O  •  iC^OCOSC 
•-I  •  '1^  C>»i-l  ( 
t>-     •     -OS  CO  •^  ( 


i 


eo 

CO 


00 


OS 


8     0    ^    §    « 

CO  -^         »0         CO         U3 


OC  00  Ot^ 

oSoS 


oc 


»o 


•  • 


>?DOS  >«        «3 
)CO«NO:        Q 


10       TO       »o 

•  •  • 


5 


00  O1-1  o       10 
CO  CO  CO  CO         c^ 

0000      o 


S      S      ^ 

000 


C><«000»0        Q  00        1-1        N        »0 

$coos«:      00        »c      «o      00     .-H 
ooeocofS      CO        •*      u3      fl      »o 


10  >0  US  o 


a> 


)i-t^;ooor-.iooOi^««oic>»csicoc>5co(NcocJieoNco 


s 


8888    8    8    8    8    8    8888888888888888S88888S 


^      S 


8    S 


a 


« 


aa 


(- 1.. 

aa 


I 


CQ 

® 

a 


3 

c 

cc 

® 

a 


1—1      ^ 


p^ 

d 


i-^ej  cflNj-Hi—ie^i— It— 11— •'-''— i'-'esi—(i—ii-<f  ^1—1  i-H  rH  «^^' 

&,'  ^pj  Pi*  Ah'  pJ  Ph*  Ph'  Ph*  Ph  Ph  P-'  fn'  oi  Ph'  P,'  pJ  cJ  pJ  pj  P,'  CLt  p^ 


»0  Q  »0»0 

■*t-  ao  't 


liP' 


■01 

CO  1-11 


se«   «-^r 


!  "O  5  iC 

)  1— I  C  I— I 

rHi-ipii 

e 


.^P< 


30^( 


!S! 


>«5 
^OS 


!0 


l,-!,-!,-.  C4l-I  M  1-t 

O  O  6i 


»C»OQ  1 
t^os  t^  ( 

e  o  o  ' 


in     o 
I,      © 


g 


C5SPP     ^     ^     P     5     S     5 


CO 

w 

® 
-J  o  o  o 

® 
CQ 


O 


o      o 


o 
•d 


-§ 


-§ 


5  o  fl4S 


o 
-d 


o 

73 


O 

T3 


0000 


S     0q 


"d      "d      "d      t3 


-<ixw<5     pq 


Q     W     fe 


pq 


o 


^no-^ 


P5    o    q    u; 


CO  CO  C0 1"       •♦<       ■^       ij<       -^       'il      US           if5           ,0           iJtJt-'  /            ri       cr 

1—1     •-< 

1-1  OS 


S        ?i        !2  l^  ^rHt^tONCOi-it^-liCSJt-^        <0        CD  CO  O        O        OS        t-        -"Jt       OOQ 


eo 


CO       OS 

"5      eo      •*    CO 


00         eg 

8      S 


eo      r^ 

8    8 


«        coaoo^cor^i-iogsr^os      c«      r^ 

o       o  000000000   000 


d 

.a 


eo      •^      00      OS        »-i        i>-'*oofii— icoo-^tieo'i'      o      co        c*        'f      't      eo      »o      co      ^eo     H. 

•  •  •  •  rA  2 


CM 

o 


o  000000000 


o 
o 


ti 


8    B 


«5     U5 


C<J 


5 


CO 


eo   -^   00   OS    o   cD-^20^'FHco-*^co?j-"iI   10   CO   c<   co   co   eo   >o   eo   ^^ 


—  o 
10  Z 


•Ci 


rH  ■^ 


gS88S8}2S^c58S88^88^S888S2S8S888S8888S888S88S8S888S8  5 

corH>-i'^i-ii-noi-i      >— '*$'-<      T-5c4-^i-5    '    'o6(N05i>^    'e4'«i'e4»^t^i-<roi-JoT-J»iii-<-^-t'i-<;£0'rc4oc»-<'^i-Hc4»-i'^    "r" 


tSC 


® 


OS 
® 

.5  CO 
i_ «_     ® 


^  ^  ^  c5-;5-;5-;h  ;H-;::r^<N^  "1 2  p  s  o  s  ^'t  ^o  ;:?2 


dd 

OS 
0 


go^gS-H-.-g; 


CO 
CO, 


T3 


o 

O 


-/2 


to'^jo"— :'*0:OOOOOCQ^--0  00-«*>COCCcoO 


Ph' pj  Ph' Ph' Ph"  P^' Ph"  P4  f^_  f^_  ?r  ;^-3  ^^A^' '^,  P^Vph' '^i^'^. '^.  ^.  ^  P^  eu  &."  ^ 

ddddddddMWiaH"pL;|pL;AH'dWwp4'df^*^"WWWdodddWWW«WWWdW 

M  H  pq  Piq  pq  pq  pq  Pi:;  pq  pq  ^  Q  (ij  U  1^  psi  PQ  CQ  Q  CQ  ^  O  pi^  pc]  pc]  pi^  CQ  od  CQ  CQ  CQ  c^ 


s 


>o  "5  o  «c  OS  ic  c><  o»  N  t^      25      t^ 

t^     oscot^-^ooooooos     i-i     ta 

e  a  cs  a  e  c3  a 


>o      o      «o      iC      c 
t^      "5      N      j>.      O 

t^      O      00      OS      fi 


o 


« 

o 


s 

a 

o 


o 


o 

•d 


o 


>§ 


^ 


o 


o 

-d 


o 


o 

•d 


_Q        O        O      _p        O 

'O       'O      ^3      'O       ^3 


CO   :   ;   ;   ;   ;   ;§ 

o  d  3  6  6  C3  6  d_o  § 
'd'd's'd'd  S-d-d-d  ® 


o 
•d 


o 

•d 


a 


o 


§ 

a 

o 


a 


"d 
•d     Ij-     -d 


§ 


00000000  00 

'O  ^3  ^3  'O  'O  ^3  tl^  'O  ^3  'w 


o 

-d 


o 
-d 


o 

•d 


a 
® 


0000000 
"d     "d     "d     "d     "d     "d     -d 


e    2 

o 

is 

03 

Q* 

a 
e 

N 

O 

•d 
® 

a 
o 


.1 

as 

o 


« 


<*    m    o    -<    pq       o    ^jpQOOW-'ijmuO-sJ    pQ-<pq       oQ<;«Qft-«j 


OS 


•^  »-♦  C«       N       C^       *» 


e<»      eo  CO  CO  eo  CO -^ -^ '*< -^  CO      cp      t^      t>. 


^ 


00 

(N 


^       §^       ^ 


9963°— 15 9 


130 


THE   HOSIEKY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


131 


T3 
9 

a 
c 

1 

H 
Ml 
>* 
H 
OQ 

Q 
< 

» 
H 

GQ 
OS 

w 

>^ 

n 

H 
OQ 

o 

w 

O 
OQ 

N 

O 

Q 
« 

Ah 


00 


Eh 

o 

Eh 
00 

o 

Pm 

o 

00 

>-) 
< 

H 
H 

o 


H 

n 
Eh 


OS 

a 

o 

73 


08 


CO 

.ia 

OS 

d 

o 


e 

OS 


®   »   CO 


o 
o 

.a 


03 

O 


.1 

C 

73 


OS 


e 

03 


H 

zB 


CO 

O 


00 


« 

CO 
CO 

ca 
o 
•«— » 

OS 

o 

HH  O 
.O 

•4-' 

03 
O 

a 

"E 
k{ 

a 

OS 

o 


to  o  g  - 

to         ^ 
O  ®  ^ 


t;  o  o  I-  •« 


It 

o 


IT!   S 

08  •— 

« 

02 


9 
03 


•K.a§ 


»f5»H     CO 

co^   CO 


(N( 


i 


•  • 


i     i  i  §    g  =1311  III 


n 

00 


c^  CO     CO 


g 


s 


eo 
00 
to 


CO     Qc   CO   o     o>     a»     »o 

®     1-1   f   ^     t-     t^     ^ 
lO      CO    »o    ■«><      e«      CO      CO 


00     -H      e>» 
-^     to     CO 

CO        CD        O) 


U3       ^0» 

»o 


-    23 


lO        ■»!« 

8    8 


o 

1— ( 

o 


o 

O 


■O  lO  .O  lO  iO 


1-1 
o 


"? 


"? 


•o 


8       8 


geoogeoeo  ooo 

S00S88  00 


o 
o 


CO  ^    CO 


CO 


8 


CO 


CM       »0 


^     rH-Hfooej 

g  ic  i-i  CO 

CO  ^  ^  ^  ^ 


CO 


U3< 


2       S 


CO 
00 


00 


CO      CO 


o 


S      8 


CO 


cj    35    CO 
n   to    Tf 


O         -H 


C4        00 

00      •^ 
CO      CO 


2§ 

CO 


I    S    8 

O        O       "5 


50       -"S"*© 

<3      CO'* 


S3 

*     • 


!2         <^ 

8      S 


OJ      o 

S    8 


■o  ■«  ■«  -o  "O 


t-  t^         t^ 

S       S       8 


8 


s     s     S  i  i 


0000000       000 


<o 


S    Si 


8?:  '^ 


-s.  (N        •*       S 

COCO     CO        M       CJ 


t>.         CO 


I 


§ 


'SS'S  OCJ        i-<  CO 

ct 


CO 


CO  ta  ■v  *ti  tti 
■*  ^  r>.  e>»  Tj< 
r-  C4        c«        CO      csi 


CO 

■* 


o 

CD 


■* 


^    o 

CD        O 
CO        CO 


o  ^ 
CO  » 
CO       »5 


^  ""S"  O-H        « 


I  c**  M  ^  r>j  '^?M  ^^..i ) 


O 

I 


^ 


co^^g55i^Jo§^S§^^22***g3|§S85|:;§        ■gg||gg||ogg|     I     ggg^^ooj^ogogoooo^ooog^oogoo^ogg^goo   -g 
■  «ca5M^^<»c<<foc^ -a-c^  u  «  u  cocoeoe^C^cocococoNcocoe^cotN  TT  (N  ■*c^-<9>cocoi5<rt^inia<MSe3(N£oS»S    >« 


^  go  XI  CO  N 

1-1  i^  i-H  »H  i-< 


S2 


$•2 


§SS 


5:  ^  ^  Oh' ph"  ^  ph' fi;  ph*  ^  ^  &;  &;  fe  &;  (i;  p;  (1h"  ii;  ph' Oh*  fi;  ^  ph' (i;  ph' a^  (i;  ph' Ah' ^ 


"3       O 

CO     at 


See 

C3 


S    8 


8 


"5cOc:5  ^cD  t^ 
•     ••••# 

e  a  •  •  Q 


i      3 

O  f-» 


03 


:^   s   ;i   s 


o 


CO 

CO 

-;  O  O        000 

gts-d    "O    -o    -d 
08   ■   " 


o 
■d 


(^ 


o 


a 

a 
I 


o 
-d 


•         '  cs     * 

S-dTS  s-d  S 

S  :  :i^  :a 


o 
•d 


5000 
tJ    "d    -d    -d 


0000  o  o 
'O'd'd'U'd'd 

i  i  i 


^ 


o 
•d 


o 
•d 


fflO'<    pq    o    <1 


m 


O    p     W     p^        <lpq^PH<j 


m 


ss^  §§  §g  gi 


s; 


eo     eo     e?         eoeorte?cSc§ 


CO 


^ 


CO  N  CO  CD  esi  CO  c^  Tj>  c>j  ■>»<  c^  •*  CO  CO  "ft  <c  •«»>  m  •*  CO  o  es  CM  CO  w  «c    "d 

I 


88888SS88888^8^8SS88S8SSS888S88888SS888I5SK8888iS8S 
"'^-^"^S  -^t^^-^oo^^g^cD^  -^^  -cguS-^gjcM-^gj^Qo-ijr^-j  ■'^2-2-^SJ'=^55'^S5^  ''^^ 


-co 

2  w  to  es 

OS  03  CO  be 
Ubcbc  . 

.-    •     •  Ih 

h  M  hi  « 

e  0)  a;  a 

ESS=  .  . 
I  Ocoo^2Z2 


000 

00—1 


CD  CD  O  *^ 
CO"— I  ^"^ 


NiNNCM' 

ddddW'W' 


*PhPh 

•     •     • 

loo 

koocqoqoqcqWW 


PhP^PhPh 
WcQtacQ 


N 


Ph 

CQCQ 


CO'* 


t^O' 


(1  kl 


sa 

Z^'OOO 


o 
e5" 


to  00 


1^ 

a 

CO 

cS 

a 


J3 
•d 
o 


g  Ph  ;:r;^^  Ah  ;5-cM-aM-^^  Ph' Ph' p;  p;  Ah  P^  Ph' P."  Ph' p;  p;  (i;  fi;  fi;  ;i;  P^;  P^- p;  p;  p;  p;  p;  Ph  ^ 
|op;PH'MMp;p;PH'PHMddddMMMMMMdddddddddM 

M^ddcQCQddddcQCOQQaQOQCQCQOQmoQOQCQODOQOQoacZJro 


CD 


C« 


to 

CD 


O) 


^       S! 


co< 


{2 

00 


to     to     to 
t»      t^      r^ 

CO       CO       CO 


s 


i-H       M    p«    I-i    .-; 


O 


0 

■a 


o 

•d 


<s 

S 
o 


C  CO 

®    .a 


o 


CO 

>. 

O 


CO 

a> 

CO 

CO 

i 


e  o     o     o 
wd     "d     "d 


o     o 

'O     -d 


0000 

•d     "d     "d     "d 


o 
•d 


o 

•d 


S    2 

O       -2 

^    o 


C3 


o 

•d 


0000000 

"d*©     "d     "d     "d     "o     "d 


« 

S 
o 


o 

•d 


^ 

to  0 

0 
0 

c^ 

CMtO 

cooj 

g 

•     • 

m 

e  Q 

1 

• 

•      • 

0 

£ 

2 

1  = 

2 

s 

x; 

CO 

0 

p. 

0000 
"d     "d     "d     "d 


:  :  -d 

00  a 

"d-d  o 

:  :  o 

:  :  g 


<   m 


<;    n    o    <j 


pq 


o 


-<«    o    -15    P3    o 


n    o    Q   w 


S 


CD        CD 


<;pQ  « 


o 


^^       S5?55o?8       ^       ^       ^ggS^S:^       5555       S?^ 


132 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY^  SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


133 


a 
o 

i 

H 
OQ 

Q 

55 
H 

n 

M 

PQ 
00 

w 

n 

OD 

o 
W 

o 

CO 

H 
N 

o 

p 

H 

Ph 

00 

H 

O 
00 

O 

O 
00 

.^ 


CO 

» 

n 
< 


to 

.fcl 

03 

P. 

a 

Si 

o 


O 


OS 

p< 

g 

o 


08 


.3 


O   ©   M 

a 


§ 


^ 

p 


o 


J 
ii4 

T3 

§ 

OQ 


a 

OS 


In 
ffi      • 

•C2 


(A 

o 


1^ 
00 


e 
a< 

CO 

CO 

a 

eS 

> 
s 

Ih 

.S  85 
►^  O 

c 
o 

a 

03 

a 

03 


i 

•s 

1^ 


il 

e8«<-" 


03 


■s.a| 


oc  a>   <o      p       t^ 
ec  t>»    to      CO        ec 


o 


^  00 

CO  00 

■f  OS 


lr» 


n 


00 


s    -^ 


t^  CO    •*       00 

SS  3    8 


a> 


o 
o 


M 

§ 


■  «Q 


o 


ic  uj    O      00        CO 

<£  Oi     O*        O^  CO 

ec  t^    CO      CO        eo 


o 


§    s 


s 


I  -o 


O) 


o 
coo     o 


o 


o 
o 


f2 

o 


o 


CO  O  O    ifS  >o 

t^  "5  >C     S  ^» 

o       o       o  o  o 


s^ 


coo      00 
eo  !>•    CO      eo 


00 

CO 


eo 


^ 


CO 


CO 

eo 


00 

05 


CO    o  o 
cocq 


i2 


?  ??  P  <5  <5  ^ 


)rH^C«->rS0&C^4COcC'  _ 

>eOC<ieoooc<TfnoioiO'* 


S 


CO 


§S8888§i5§88S8S58^SSS8S8S8S8S8g8S8SSg 

eoco»oo6■TJ<1^T^Jc3^-^•^^^^4THod— <aco6f-J»Hco^Ncoi4cOi-H«d-^'^N'«rC>'^o6oc5 

'-"'-^  ,-1  ,-1  ,-4  C4  ^4  ,_|  ,H  ^ 


12; 


I 

•  a  j'b  .  •  •  . 

c  q3  2"*®=coo 
5*wa=i.SL::l5 

^asr- 


o 


o      o 


o 


o 


o     o 


o 


-§ 


o 


-tjpqo    ■<    M 


O 


Q    H 


P^    <:        pq     OQ<j 


n 


coeoeo 


•*      ■* 
•*      * 


"3 


UJiOCO 


S 


S  o»  c<  coeoNi^^cD'^OT  CO  00  *^        ^eoco        t- 

•  •  ••••■•••  •  •  ■•••• 

g  o  8         80800000         o         o         o       000       O 

CO                  cp  ^          t*u5r-cDcO'-<eoeo          ^  eo          <»        !?HS        SJ 

ft                  SS  cO»-io6oQ?Si-taoos©c0  9S2        ?^5S        £? 

O                  c6  «          cow^t^-^cO'-HOs          CO  00          CO        .-tcoco        t^ 

•  •  *•••••*•            g  *            ••••• 

^  CO  p  r-»or^co»»-^coeo  "3  eo  j»        i2?5S6        S 

N  t^  TO  OOOiOcDiJSncOCO  P  1-1  *  w^«  3 

o  00  «  c>»eoo»ococo»-<os  «  00  to        ^coco        co 

oj  '  *  '''"'rAfi'ei  '         ei         '    '    ' 

ooooooopooeooooooooooooooopoppop^ocooppppoopppppppooopg 

i5-T(Nao-^ooc^>oc5o-«<t^i5C^oi3ioo2bco5iocoot»p'^E:rP»535ptiP 
Socc^»■vcDeo^-lO>ocsc>^c^c<^aoeoe^^e^e^c^•*eo■^•^coc^co^»-oooou50sooooO"7woswe^«^oslOt^o^>• 


o 

J3 


SSl2ggS^SSgt2S8Si2S88S888S8§SS^^8SS{28S_88SS_888S8§  § 


si 

00  CJO 
gccc;^>C 

•-.■3  4>0h 


0( 
'»'  c 


■1  %J 


aaa 


OCO 

•»»•  CO 


ooco  o> 

^  t-N  1— 4  -^  , 


»-ic«e>»' 


'00<©iMeoi5popoco 


•a  "-I 

§  a 


73  © 
©  *- 

000  l-O 
•^■^fcox:  'J' 


aa 


PL,  Ph-^  PL,  Ah 

.      .   CO      .      . 


©  © 

aa 

o  ©  o  i3  o  p 

•W  •VCO  *-CO^ 

.    .    .  <-i 00    . 

pL,CtHPHaH^^^PHflHpL,PH(lH3P-,i2PHp4pH-3^CL,PH(lH^|-3aH 

OOOOOWOOOOO  p^O  pPOO  COOOOO  CO 


to 


CO 

bc 


eS 
bo 


CO 

bC 


L^aa:;^ 


© 

a 


S 


tNi    fr.    (m    Ul 

©  ©  ©  © 

aaaa 

COOOO 

—     -   -      50 


•a  eo  CO  t^ 

•      '   O  Tl    CO      •      •      •      • 

OOjj^.   ^tl,PLH&,Pk 


I 


as 

a 

e 

s 


11 

p. 


CV|        CO 

o 


o 

ffi 


o 


eo 


e 


0 

•3 


CO 
Q 


CO 

C3 


1-1      CO 
cs       « 


s  s? 

«-J     eo 
Q      e 


>oopp 
r^  »fl  ic  »o 

CO  OS  '1  O 


o  e 


.-IC< 


■ 'f. 


o 


o 


o 


i 

o 


0 
■0 


0 


« 


o 


o 


O 


a 

0) 


© 

a 

o 


c 

o 


s 

O         ©       "O 


O 


C 

a 

o 


o 

T3 


CO 


v^  "  "v  V 

5  :  -.a 


0000 
"O      "O      "O      13 


0000 

13      "O      "O      "O 


o     o 


0000 

"CO  "CO 


n 


Q 


<jpqoQ        WPM-<pq 


o    p 


^0QO-< 


r«  t>        L^         oQoooooo         ooooosos  a>     a*  pppi-i 


134 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


135 


•i-i 

a 
o 

i 

H 

1^ 


Q 

so 

H 

n 

00 

pq 

GO 

n 

00 

o 
W 

o 

00 

1-4 

•< 

Ph 

O 

Q 

H 
P^ 

oo" 

< 

H 

O 

Eh 

to 
o 

O 

00 
P 


H 

n 


*3 

p. 


S 

o 


CO 

[3 
'C 


CO 

O 


®  a*  CO 
•^  as  o 


a 


0 
O 

.a 


o 


CO 

P 

s 


a 

03 


05     • 

«  9 

C  2 


03 

g 

H 

o 


CO 

3 


tn 

CD 

o 


00 


a 
o 


CO 

§ 

> 

2 

.5  OS 
Wo 

§ 

03 

a 
ft 

£> 

a 

<s 

O 


CO 
CO 

O 

l-i 

o 


>;  fl  o  S 
o  S*j  is 

ft- <  ftg 


I-I 


o  2 

oS"" 

9 

QQ 


CO 


03d  fl 

w-a 


00 


CI 

t— I 

o 
c4 


S2 


IN 

O 


I      9 


2 


n    ^ 


8 


to 


w 


o» 


c« 


CO  Tf      ■^ 


o 


o 


o 


i 


00 


8 

o 


oc 


(N 


S8 


o 

S 


O) 


t- 

o 


CO 


s 

o 


00 
o 


00 

c» 

o 


s 

o 


o 


i 


s 


§ 

ci 


s 


1^ 

00 


s 


i§iisi^ii§iisiiiii§iiiiiii§iiiiiiiij 


s 


•  _j  •  •  •  •  • 


C4 


!c4 


b    b4    Lri    (mi    Ui    L« 

S  a>  S  e  S  « 

aaaaaa 

OOOOtDO 

•V  «o  CO  r^  CO  00 

PhQmAh 

•       ■       • 


•      •      'A* 


1-4 

cor:^* 


e 


03 


CO 

C3 


•73  is  ^M  (x  ^  h< 
©  ®S  ©  0^  ® 


•a 
^aa-saagoi 


oo  gooo 

j^  CD  t^  H  r>-  ■^^  »o 


Qo'S 

C3      •      •      "      J       •      •kJ       i       •      •   M      •       •       • 


Mb£^  03 

•     •         S 
fe  fe  •^  '      •      •      ' 

g  tr;  "5  ^  ^  <M  r- 

§sa^^^^~^ 


^iddd  *dp4www 


«aaS 

•  T  iO  ~ 

w'ddd 


8 


o 

00 


i     I 


C3 


CO 

a 


e>5 


c^ 


o 
eo 


o 


a 
1^ 


o 


CO 

CO 

a 


a 

o 


o 


o 


s 


^ 


o     o 


o 


o 


pq 


o    Q 


H 


pq 


pq 


94 


s 


S3 


S 


§         3 


3 


CO 

o 


eo 

1— t 
o 


»-i 

o 


o 


s 


^-lei      r-t         1-1 

OO    o      o 


eo 

i-i 
o 


9 


00 


I> 


00  a>    f^     •-<       ^ 

t^  CO      l«         KJ  O 

CO  1-1     t^        00  ■* 


c« 


oo  o    o     a 

O     O       O  O 


eo 


00 

o 


S 


OJ  oo 

CO  Ui 


O 


CO 

s 

e4 


>^    r—     00        CO 


>OOOOOOOOOQCOOOQOOO< 

....  ^ ^,._jco»oco»oco'OC<«occ^«'*»oe^Trcoc^eo'^esicot^csco»Qt-«:-tr*"?tr«'' 

U3ateCCDiC»0»«cOiC«0«CCOO-^cO'Oi-iO»iOt^Ot^»00»OOt^»OCOOOO»COOOiO> 


OCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOi 
Ncce^»ocoioe5»5co»5co«?c^occsi'      " 


iOO< 


:  C  O  OtQ  "O  'C  < 

)  t^  c5 1^  e^  t^  oi  < 


lie 


)cO'»co"3Trc^eoeo 


c< 


u5U5i-<«-<'*^'^i^'^c>i'^'^    'wioco^koeo^    "i-Heo    "idw-^'doJ'^— <'-H»Okc3eo»o««'0^'^t'^t^t^eoo^»0'S"'^ 


« 


go 


aaleaaaaaa^^: 


bC 


fcl  u:  t^  bC-p  u!  fcl  S)2  ® 
OP®©     .g®«        '^'-' 


S  in 

H  03 


&&©^©EEa©'oaa&^, 


©  « , 


dpH'^c»^"^'add'^pk"o2^ddd"ddddddd^fL;pupH"p^oQmdpH"  "adoiPu  j^^mP^'ddddp^ft^ddd 
wddddt^ddWj^dddwww-^wwwwwwBddddddddd-^ddd^^ddwwKWddww 


CO 

W 

m 
3 
O 

xi 

c 
o 

i 

i 

i 


to 

O 


O 

CO 

CO 

'3 

ft 

i 


© 

ft 
09 

s 

o 

C3 


O 

s 

pi 


o 
to 


s 


s 


e«i 


04 


o     s     s 

c4         1-^         "-J 


o 


CO 

e 


88S    8'  8 

1— *  1-H  O         X"         »-^ 


o 


o 
73 


o 


O 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o 
•d 


o 


a©  2 


o 
•a 


-  ,-«  o 


=     9 


o 


o 


o 


c 


o 
t3 


o 


o 


o 


o 


o  o  o 


o 


o 
•o 


w 


m 


pq 


O 


<jpqo    Q    -< 


'O' 
lO 


s 


s 


^     s     s 


g 


s 


IC  to  tQ 


00 

«o 


136 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


137 


o 


QQ 
>^ 

;? 

E- 

H 
n 

CO 

O 

W 

1^ 
o 

02 
« 

Ph 

N 
O 

Q 

en 

oT 


Eh 


o 

El 
00 
O 

o 

< 

Eh 

P 


CD 
H 

Hi 

n 

< 
Eh 


ft 

O 


.2 

03 

a 


o 


03 

«   OJ    OT 
'^   CO  CJ 


a 


o 
o 

.a 


cs 

O 


CO 

•52 


E 

OS 


.h 

03 

a 

(D 
M 
O 


<s 
en 


03 


CO 

o 

c 


1^ 

00 


9 

CO 


(1 


.S  IS 


a 
o 

■*-> 

OS 

a 

09 

ft 

X 
<u 

C! 
c3 

o 

P4 


2 


°S;o« 

o  o  «-•- 

'r*  "1  *^  ro 
li   -■  c3  -^ 


CUr-^ 


,« 


J. 

O 

-a 

03 


So 

SCO 


cS^ 


wa 


o 


O'HOII 

Oicoeoc 

:occcoc 


S  *    S 


CO 


CD 


CC 


?§ 


o 


00 

t^»Ht^ 

on 

^ 

J^iOiOiC 

s 

ooo« 

(N 

(N 

W05  31CC 

tHCoeo 

CO 

Ct 

M  CC  «■* 

»f5 

CO 


CO 

1— t 


N^       CO 


o 


o 


C  O  00  «   03  »C  TT<  CO 

^  1— I  -H  O)  Tt>  C^  CO  «-l 

ooooooo     o 


■V 

.— 1 

N 

CO 

CVJ 

(N 

o 

o 

O 

s 


CO 
1-1 

o 


CO 

O 


O  OO  P0OU51 

>-H  00  lo  c>J  >c  t^  ( 


U 


t-H        I--.  CO  CO  c  t-- 00  < 


t^ 

s    s 


rji  1-H 


s 

(H 


O 


05 

T— I 

o 


00 

CO 


o 


S        3 


.-I  Oi 


o 


c<> 


8 


8     88    8 


u  u  u  w 


^ 


r-t 
00 


O      i-H  coco 


§5 

CO 


CO 


■*  >o  tn  »o      CO 

CO  CO  CC  Hf        CO 


i^        coco      »o 

1-1  05  05         C^ 

CO  tT  lO        !>• 


s 


«o 


OOOOOOQ  O 
•CiOiOCCOtOO  oc 
OOOC^Or-t       c 


i 


o 
o         d 


CO 


00( 

CO  CO  O  CC  lO  ( 

CO  CO  CO  0-.  CO  X'  -H 


''^s^s 


o 

CO 

CO 


lO 


c>< 


1-1         r» 


00 


o 


M5 


oooc  oo 

iC  "5  »0  CC  00  t^ 
ICO  CO  lO  "O  CO 


8SS888g§888S8i88S8SSS_§88SS8S88SS8S8i88 


C>)cO«-l'V'^i-HcOOO-^ 


OCO  1-1 


^' 


'£}i-IOJt*CO'-<OC<<0>-HU5i-iC^I'VOe^ 
C<  CO  »-(  1-t 


;-■  tH  ^ 

e  a<  ^ 


03 

2 

Xi 


aaa^-aas 


ooq 

CO  •v  * 


OD  e    .    •    •    .  tH 

CO  O  ii  0/ 


-     •  »    -^  .^  -.5-  rO 


<D 

?rSo 

CO 


OS 

I 


00 

SCSI, 


2^ 

^'^.  .  .  . 


WHO 


tH     tn 


t3 
03 

5 


u^d, 


<£,    !^    <S    S>  \     .        .       , 

S  S  6  S^«  u 
0000:3  g  * 


cofu 
do 


Ih    - 
©  i-l 

B^ 

■«>53oo  :oooorg  E  S-q-ooo 
cOajcO'^Oi^'Ot^cOOT  gi-ieoc5* 
c5"  c  c?"c>i"5L^c5"^?i"  c  CO  c-  ^i^c^iN 

"^     •     •  •     •     •     •  +^  b|)    ,     •     ■     •     . 

(rt    •••••••  is*        .    •    .    .    . 


S-l     t-t         '     Urn     S~^     QJ 

»  S)       a.  0  e 

as  :es| 

00?(N0§ 
*     *  ^^  *  ^^ 

bcbo      bii  be 


W*WHdWWWH>^C>dKWWWOOUOOO 


ooopppoo 
ioo«copop5 

^^  ^j*  ^^  ^ji  ^1  ^j<  ^^  ^3 

cvicsicvics'«iJcviTjJc4 


o         »o 


o 

CO 


o 
■o 


N 


N 


N 


o 


to 

CO 

e 

a 

03 

m 


©    '    ,    '    '  o 

-o    •    .    ■    .  c 

TJOCOOSOd 


o 

13 


o 


00000000 

'O  'O  XJ  'O  'O  'O  XJ  "O 


a 

s 

O 


o 


o 


a 

2 

-a 

u 


a 

a; 


o 


o 

-3 


o 


o     o 


o 


o 


o 


n 


<imoQa^o<j 


cq 


ft     W 


00 

U3 


00 
»o 


01  O  05  05  OS  05  Oi  O  0000  O  ei  m-t 

»0  U3  u>  U5  40  »o  U5  CO  ©  CO  CO       CO  S  CO  S 


U3 


O 

3 


o 


ill 


CO 

s 


CO 

8 


)  ICO  lO 


CO        coco      CO 

S     8S    o 


8     S 


8 


•    § 


o 
55 


lO 


CI 

o 


g 


CO 


SlOl-HTj" 
CO  OCO 

O       1-*  C>JCO 


"? 


1-t        i-<  O  O  0       CO 

05         01         05  CO  CO  O         1-H 

e<     e»     c«coco  •«»<     CO 


•<9< 


22 
^  »o 


53 


O 
CO 


gggSS88?S8|g|g22||||^§g^ 

ior-tioiOTrc5t^«o»ocOt^Osi^'i'Hf»rcccoco 


C^c5oc 


S 


S 
i^ 


^oopooocoopoocpoNooujo 
r^  oc  00  ©  OC'  1^  oc  CO  X  CO  o  M  5;  -"T  0  p  •-?  »G  r"  «c  », 


oc        O"        r*        r^  oc  «j  ci?  Jt-'  1^  jc.  c^  Jt  c^  ^— '  ^^  '^  "^r  ^_/  v.^  i— I  uj  ^-^  *^^  ^' 

^      rH      T-H      .-tT— -Hc^icsicsic^roc^coTfC^c^cot^t^eoOieo^-H 


??  =  °§gggS8§8888?888^5S 


o 
o 


X  TT  ■^ 


88    8    8    88888SSS'.'38g8888S88S_gS  | 


t^ 

c* 


1^ 


t-^cic^cicb-^-^tcccco 
e^  CO  CO  CO 


cvj  CO  t>^  I 

coco 


liO  o 
■  tt  »o  oc  "a!  p  »o 


«  <» 

as 

NO 

coco 

c3"co 

•   •  o 

bCb&S 

WW    ; 

dd  : 


:^ 


:5g 

»H     »J  'O    S     fc, 

;aa;i^8a 

O  CO 'S  ^■'J' 

t^co  ^c^^io 

.    .  a    .    . 

HH  I— (   *H  |_(  HH 


tl     IM     U 

o)  o  e 


'oo»o 


aaa 

•     '  OP  OPcO'^  ■**■  P 


coco 


CO  CO  CO  CO 


CO 


1-H  in 


•  « 

•  © 

:  ft 
;o 

.•o 

I  o 

:.a 
:a 

IB 

ii 

:.a 


© 
© 

O 

CO 

o 

.g 

© 


« 

o 

© 

p. 


o 

.3 

© 


a   a 


o 
o 

PI 

© 
o 
tn 
© 

p. 


© 


p. 

CO 
I 

"o 
o 

.a 

03 


bO  cC  .    •    •    ^    •    • 


02  CQ  p,aQCQ 

dd^ddddddddwwwdwwdWaiK 


»o 


ft 

to 

o 

o 

rs- 
.3 

03 
»o 


s  o  o  o  : 
fto  o  o   ; 

_cf  ^  ^  ^     . 

"o  *j  4J  +j     '. 

o  c  c  c    • 

>  ©  ©  ©    • 
?  o  ©  ©     • 

c2  bi  u  b     ' 

•S  ©  ©  ©     ■ 

g  ftftft^S 

MO  o  o  ;5- 

^•^-^^"^ 

-So'^o'oCh 

o-^  C  C  g    . 

:?  ^  ©  «  ©   . 


OOP 

dd 

WW* 


rH?r 

dd 

WW 


« 
© 

© 

ft 

o 

CO 

o 

.3 


fa 


t><: 


W 


d« 


;  :  :8  : 
;  :  :^  : 

!  1  I  ■♦^  ! 

.  .  .  C  . 

.  .  .  ©  . 

.  .  .  o  . 

.  •  .  ^  . 

•  •  •  ©  • 

.  :  :  ft  ; 
:  •  ■  o  • 

itdo-'S 

,  i-hCO^cO  ;:;; 
&,''^^ft 

^"C  o^ 

.JS  ©    . 
Whc^SW 


ill  I 

;  c  c  © 
.  ©  ©  © 

.  ©  O  fc, 

■  bl  ^  © 

'  ©  V  O, 

:ftc-o 

■  loio  CO 
•co»o    « 

5  2  23 


I 


00 

.s 

CO 


© 


o  cs  ce  >- 

O  U  b<  EX. 

—  bcbL, 

HC««0  I 


be  be  a, 

«0»1-H 


03 

ft 

a 

© 
§ 


« 

.2 
'b< 

ft 

CO 

o 


pi 


o 


o 
'c3 


« 


CSl 


c< 


8S»o 

10  CO  00 

AAA 


o 


o 


ooo< 

»Q»0  >0  < 

00  OS  O)  < 


o< 

g; 


10 

;S8 


; 

• 

; 

•         •         • 

:  :  : 

• 

I 

1 
t 

• 

• 
0 

i 

0 

i 

03 

0 

0 

d 

6  6  6 

6  6 

• 
• 
• 

0 

• 
■ 

d 

d 

d 

d 

d 

•0 

•6 

0 

Tl 

CO 

go  g 

xs 

X3 

XJX3X3X3X3 

X3 

X5X3X3 

-d 

X3 

• 

• 

^ 

S 

pq 

IS^^S 

*          •          1 

i        • 
1        • 

• 

1 
1 

• 
• 
• 

• 
• 
t 
• 

f 
f 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
■ 

• 

• 

• 

• 
• 
1 

• 

1                             • 

I                             t 

■  • 

■  • 

•    \ 

• 
• 

0 

• 

0 

r 

•                             • 

>                         0 

0 

00c 

)      0      0 

00000 

0 

000 

0          0 

•0 

» 

• 

'Z 

i     '^ 

T3 

-0X5X5      X5      XJ 

•         1         •                   t                   ■ 

•OT3  "CCO 

•C3 

-0X3X3 

•         fl         • 

-0            X3 

■ 
• 
t 

• 
• 
• 

• 
• 

■   • 

*:      \ 

\     \ 

:  :  : 

I 

• 
• 

•       • 

• 
• 

• 

00 

t« 


© 

O 

J= 
■«-> 

■^ 

© 
-O 
3 

"3 

c 


n 


o 


w 


w 


o 


<iCQH<     K     O     Q-!jP30<; 


CQ 


OQW 


CO 


C*CSCO 

CO  CO  CO 


CO 
CO 


CO 
CO 


cot^t^t^oo 

CO  CO  CO  CO  CO 


s 


QQOOOO 

OCO  CO 


CO 


138 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTBY. 


COST  AND   PROFIT  BY  SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


139 


a 
o 

CO 

» 

OQ 

Q 
55 

00 

^: 

H 

OQ 

a 

n 

-< 

GO 

pq 

00 

O 
W 

O 

CO 

55 

N 

o 

Q 

H 
Ph 

oo" 
•J 
< 

O 
00 

O 
O 

GO 

< 

H 

Q 


CO 
H 

< 


§ 

O 


i2 

a 


3 

u 


,-S 


o 
o 

in 


5 
o 


0 
CO 


e 


hi 

si 


09 
03 

« 

O 


e 

CO 

S 

a 


o 


00 


9 

e 

CO 

CO 

§ 


> 

e 

•  J; 

.a  08 
►*<  o 

a 
o 

♦J 

« 
a 

03 

o 


s 


CO  rH 

"5  r- 


^ 


s 


CO 


CO 


38 


A       C030     K 


csi      eob- 


•^  ^H  C4 


•0*0*0,0  _f 

^-^      ^'         v^         w  g 


3 


C4( 

0( 


to 

o 


04 

o 


o 


1— < 

o 


o 


00 

o 


CO 

o 


O    00 

f-l       1-4 

o  o 


8 


>o  o 


S    S     5     8      J§ 
8  •      •        • 


;s 


CM 


CM 

o 


00 


00 


t*      s 


§a       o 
^  CM 

.-M       .-J  CM 


CM«0     ««       CM 

Qor»    (Q      ^ 


18 


It 


5    S 


s 


o 


04 


00       o 


o 

s 


•o 


o 

3 


8 


8 


{5 

o 


s 


00   « 

8S  S 


up        »-( 


to 


o 
«o 


_  i 


CM  t-H  10 

«0  t>.U3 


00 


^opoooio 


gsSiiiiSiiiiSliiiigiiisgsssg 


^ 


•»CMTOe%05e<5Meoocc^eooo«eowweoxwSS 



§5      SmcJ 


."5 


^ttnrin 


8S8888^SaS^^8S8gS?gg888Sis§ 

■  _■  i/^  i^  1^  i.<ii  .^ *  «J!      ?  »J    _■."••■**• 

U3 


88<^ 


i 


eon* 


n 


00 


CM 

eo 


ui     uiei 


|§8§ 

4-9  -1^  4-1 4^ 

c  s  c  a 

«  0)  o  « 
U  O  O  O 
ki  h4  In  bi 

a>  o  4)  a>  i^ 


5  c  ^ 

o  e  « 

u  u  o 

^  ^  t*i 

«  «  o  >^ 

e«5  •v  ec  ja 


o  cTo  o  c2'  000a 


^"-^"^^^    .uj.CJ^« 


trO 


c  a  a  (Ss.  I  o  cs  c3  cs    •    • 


I 


1 

1^ 


o 
o 

s 

o 

kl 
« 

O  CD 


o   .   .   .  k  n   ,  fe  fa   . 


2B 

p  O 
o  o 


;ec' 


031 
S 


eoio    .  ^    . 


nil-!, 
^■fel  S»  I  a 


l|LL   i 
.0  ^  2  fe  o  fe  c^ 


-•-^ 


CO  ^^  ^^ 

B   •   .   •*cT   .jaX 


S  ^  rt 

*-3  fe.S  £.S  Sc^' 


CV5 


r^      1 


o 


e 
9 


en  J5  B  P 


o 

8 


<5     c 
8    8 


■     B-p3  ^,  c3  .       . 


00      i$      CQ^ 


«o 


OjOO 


e  Q  e 


00 


O 

03 


B 
§     o 


o 


•s 


u 
CO  o 


S 


o 


o 

T3 


en 

a; 
o  o  w 


1    -o    -o 


OQ 


§ 


•8 


s 


o 


>§ 


000 


o 


CQ 


O 


•8 


«3    C    W        pR    -< 


m 


u 


Qpqpci 


m 


jO     ,     CO 

w-a 


to 


R 


R 


U 


ggg 


^  CM 

8       t^ 


00 


% 


£r  ^        f^ 

OS  «?5         CM 

M  CM  ec 


eo 


eo 


00 
CM 


00    ■*     o      »>•        o     cM«o   p     "2      j-T 

■       •  •  •  •  ■••  •         w 

1-H  CM  O 


i 


00 

CM 


o 


SO»nO        CMiO        00        Q«000OO«Oi-iOQ"2e0aiO^OOOO«05DO-<OOOOCQQOOO>O»COQOQ      f^ 

^eoeoeo      eoO      "5      ot^^ncM  o t>-e0'-'O  ■<*  t^'^'O  eo  !*  Ocm  cm« '^cm  eoo  ^  iq  ■^  — <«  woo  «  ■*  ■v  ■^  co  3  cO    /^ 
vieooCeo     CON     c5     ScMt^t^ScMSt>.-H«AcM-*-*So2S5o'i?cSo>t^«CM-*eO'»«" -"fSorft^iocMCMO^eDio 


■*1-H 


CO 


CD  CO  CM 
to  00  o  o 


^^ 


00 

to  to 


CO  CM  CM        00  00  CO       CM        00  CO  00  CO 

eOtOCOCOQCOt^cO:t^ScOO>QoS«eO<0;«OOOOOOOQOQOOQOQO 

i^r^,-ir-icoeocMeocor»Ototoooco^t»cooooOoC'Oioo00ooooooo 


CMCOt^W 

»H  CO 


eooo 
eo 


eo 


COCD<-H        COCO^HCO       0>0>'« 


CMOto^4i^eo^^4>-4toeocoac  occM^t-o»eoeooocM'^a»to 

1^  i^  eOCM       CM       61  CM'*"-^       -^ 


I 

8 

4^ 


X 
.2 

:.a 

x^  ■ 

-CM   2 

w^a 


o 


CM 

eo 


S       08      S 


■^      B 

a  2 

B        CM 


B  B 

o  o 

*i>  ■«-> 

8  8 

+J  •♦J 

i  I 

o.  © 

P4  P. 


!$ 


I      I      I 

i  fe  i 

a  a  •§ 


8 


'^  B  S^ 
-  S  P 
.5  o 


a -a 


o 
«o 


®  B  ®  M 

*•«      i«*      1^ 
H  ©  fc  ®  ^ 


M 
eS 
c:> 

B 
o 


i$ 


ss  a 

C5.0 

CM-O, 


OS 

CO 

B 

03 


—  S3CM 

rB  «  © p-CM 


?^OC5-:,  So'mSSoo. 


^ 


,«5 
i£0' 


aa 

"  •«<  "p  "-* 


CM 


pSS-B 


^ 


C<lcCO 


®    •&.-•  S£Oeo-"^cM"-"P    •  ©S'P    •  ®«*«'5'E!?f^2? 

B  "^A,  SSfrt^-g^.&H^  s  a^^  §  a^'^?i-;:=-?f5j 


to 


d^ 


PCM 


iCM     •     •  ir-CM     •     •  M     •     •     .  +2     .     •  ^  CS  ?r-t-.  -<  CS  ^-    • 

;5-ww§;:rww*oooQa3ow<;;:5-S^<i;?SwQQOoao 


,£3 

6 


aa«a 

OCM  B© 
«o  eo  a  5^ 

cm"cm^cm 

3h'  Plh'  -:  a! 
•    •  «    • 


Pi  HI 

QQod 

coccT® 

co^'"*r^ 
eo    •    •  5^ 

CM"*' CM 

dcQQod 


a 

CMt^CM 

CO  ^  eo 
cTcmcm" 

odd 


o 

§ 

CD 

B 

a 

o 
o 

o 

O 


O 


eo 
a 


to 

CO 

eo 
o 


eo  •-" 

C3  a 


to 
eo 

CO 

o 


to 

eo 

CO 


00     o 

i-*CM        c4 


CM 


toSo     § 

.-I  ■^  f-l         CM 
i-<i-ICM        CM 


o 
-p 


s 

o 


o 

•p 


o 

•p 


o 
•p 


o 
•p 


B 
o 


o 
-p 


o 
•p 


g 


o 
•p 


o 

•p 


o 
•p 


s 

©•p 


o 
■p 


•§ 


o 
•p 


o 

•p 


o 

OQ 

2 

I 

B 

s 

•p 
« 

g 


o 
(1 

B. 

CO 

i 

O 
a 


O 

•P 


o 
•p 


o 

•p 


o 

•p 


o 

•p 


B 


.2  o      o      o      o 

Q-P      -P      "P      "P 


000 
•p-p-p 


o 
■p 


H 


« 


(>4 


-<«   O   Q    W      feoa   *-• 


ss 


CM        CM        CM 

r-      t>.     i>. 


CM  CM  CM 


c>« 


140 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


141 


.a 

a 
o 
O 


H 
h9 
>^ 

A 
55 

-< 

H 

jz; 

H 

n 

GQ 

>:] 

n 

OS 

m 
o 

w 

o 

OQ 

H 
N 
O 

Q 

H 
04 

aT 
H 

O 

F^ 
03 

O 
O 

00 
1-9 

Q 


H 

n 

e2 


®   <B   CO 


O 


.a 

CO 

«> 

C3 

a 


en 

o 


o 
u 
.2 


o 

Eh 


a 

03 


a 

09 


®  3 


g 

o 


ft 
§ 

O 


a 

OS 


00 


CO 
CQ 

a 

.2 

> 


3% 

(3 

o 

-«^ 

a 

03 

a 


CO  O  g+j  *< 

fci  o  o  t-  •- 

Ih 


1^ 


"I 

02 


I 


CO 


t-     op   «   o>  « 
<0      ec    -^    00    OS 


oc 


00 


CQ 
3 


OO 

o 


s 


o> 

lo 

■»J" 

m 

00 

•V 

•fj 

oo 

t" 

t- 

«■  - 

P 

t- 

*a 

t^ 

00      V      on    o 

S    S    8  S 


o  o 


-H 

o 

ai 

C^ 

N 

»— ( 

o 

o 

o 

eo 


5»  eo 


s 


O 


CO 

o 


eo 

<-< 
o 


o 


8 


CO 

o 


o 


CO 

o 


(N        1-1 

^   s   ^ 


o    o 

""     iC 


00      Oi  05 


s 


00  00  ^ 

■^  M  eo 

CO         eo         CO 


3 


CC 


s     s 


CO 

I-" 

00 


CO 


m 


eo 

1—1 

00 


o 

si 


Ui      O 

o  o 


o 


CO 


s 


o 
o 


CO 

s 


5= 
o 


CC 


CO 

3 


eo 

o 


o 


1-( 

o 


ft 

o 


o 


eo  0^  CO  fh  o>  T*" 
£J  C3»  eo  eo  iQ  1-H 
CO      ir:      en    ^    00    OS 


O 

3 


CO 


s 


00 


s 


00 


CO 


CO  00 

CO  00 


!28 


c^ 


88SSSSS88888S88-88SS5:SS?g§§£2g?S3§?,2§SSSg 

ooTroo^^cooocoooj^niTfTPNgw^^    '    '•ooj-Joeo^T.Jeoeo  ceujt^    '    -jo-J 


CDOOQp" 
1-^  ■V  Tji  »  CM  I 


>c>»ir'i<p«OQcoe«ooaocO'«J'e35;oo020cD 
)-3o5osoooooso50'><oscoeo'fl'eMooe«eo 


■*  c^  CM  I-"  ::2 -^  jr 

C<  CO        CO 


THTjiTf 


1-1  00 -"r 


ootneo  Oi 

CM  "5 


*n 


s 

I 


o 


^•5 

o 
•O 


5* 


COOCO 

eoeoeo 

666 


t*  u  a 
«  «  n 

aax 


H        Tji  irt 


_  ■*  "5 


aa 


t-i 

C 

o 

'OOO-h" 


b    Ih    ki    U 

»  «  »  o 

seaag 


.-CM 


CM>-''"-''g"  CSCM 

p^oH'd.PH'l-g-a'^a: 

.     .       O  08  fe+jMH 


CM  CO  "H  O  — -----Til      ■      •  o  o  ^  ^ 


COqoO 


aa 


;?-: ':  ^;h  ;:?N-;^*  ;:r-  -^  -^.  '^. « ?i-;?^-:  -.  -:  -:  -:  -^ 

ddddddddSdWWWWddddWWWWMW 


i    § 

OS       1-1 


K 


So  OO 

_             O  U5  »0 

OO          rt  w^  1-1  rH 

•-J  Ci  CM  cm' 


o 

CM 

e4 


op 

CM© 
CM  CM 


O 
U5 


CM 


O 


CM 


O 
CM 


o 


CM        O* 


o 


c» 


S       8 

CM  O 

1-4  CM 


s 

Ih 


c 

e 
S 


o  o      o  o 


o      o  o 


S3 

"3        C        O        O  O        o  o 
OS  ' 


o      o 


o 


a 

§ 


O        O  O 


o 


% 


o 


o      o 


o 


o 


73 
o 

I 

xi 
.a 


3 


2 


o 


O 


o 


o 

13 


o 


e 
CQ 


o 

T3 


O 


o 


o 
•3 


^    W    J    Siz;    o^ 


O?    «-< 


PQ     O 


W 


W    '-' 


Ui 


c>» 


CM 


CM 


CMCM        CMCM 


CM      CMeo 


S 


S 


f2 


£3       {3 


e 


s  R 


J2 


1   I 


jl 


142 


.THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  AND   PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED   UNITS. 


143 


COST  OF  DIRECT  LABOR  IN  UNITS. 

rru?'^^^!^''',^^^^  ^.^^^^  ^^'  ^^  supplementary  to  Tables  50  and  51 
1  his  table  shows  the  cost  of  the  different  direct-labor  operations  in 
the  nianuf acture  of  each  style  for  which  figures  are  furnished .  Sewing 
includes  sewing  the  welt  where  the  welt  is  not  integral  and  sewing  up 
the  toe  where  it  is  not  closed  by  looping.  Finishing  includes  board- 
mg,  pressmg,  matching,  labeling,  and  boxing. 

Table  57.— Details  op  Cost  of  Direct  Labor,  Per  Dozen  Pairs  of  Hose    by 

Establishments  and  Styles.  ' 

ThK™";I?^^®«^^^!^^^/®  designated  by  letters  for  convenience  of  reference  to  Tables  50   51    aud  «>« 
siSiilarif?  of  style??     ^  ^^*  P'^^""^'  °'  ^"^*'*°^  establishments  does  not  indicatTid entity  ol  even 


Table  57.— Details  of  Cost  of  Direct  Labor,  Per  Dozen  Pairs  of  Hose,  by 

Establishments  and  Styles — Continued. 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


1. 

1. 

1. 

1. 

2. 

2. 

3. 

3. 

3. 

3. 

3. 

3. 

3. 

4. 

4. 

4. 

4. 

6. 

6. 

7., 

7., 

m 

I. . 

7. 

7.. 

8.. 

8.. 

8.. 

8.. 

8.. 

8.. 

9.. 

9.. 

9.. 

9.. 

9.. 

11. 

11. 

12. 

12. 

12. 

13. 

13. 

13. 

14. 
14. 
14. 
14. 
14. 
14. 
15. 


Style 


A 
B 
C 
D 
A 
B 
A 
B 
C 
D 
E 
F 
G 
A 
B 
C 
D 
A 
B 

A 

B 
C 

D 

E 

A 

B 
C 

D 

E 

F 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

A 

B 

A 

B 

C 

A 

B 

C 


B 
C 
D 
E 
F 
A 


Seamless  or 
full  fashioned. 


Full  fashioned. 

— do 

— do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

Seamless 

do 

Full  fashioned. 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

Seamless 

do 

do 

Full  fashioned 

do 

do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do , 

Seamless , 

do , 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 


Local- 
ity. 


-do. 


-do 

-do 

.do 

-do 

-do 

.do 


East. 
...do. 
...do. 
...do., 
...do., 
...do., 
...do., 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
.  ..do.. 
...do.. 
..do.. 
. .  .do. . 
..do.. 
...do., 
—do.. 
..do.. 
West. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
East. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.. 
..do.., 

..do.. 


Gross 
price 
of  one 
dozen 
pairs  to 
retailers. 


$1,950 

2.900 

3.500 

4.000 

0  6.500 

0  7.250 

1.950 

1.900 

0  2.900 

0  2.650 

4.000 

3.850 

8.500 

500 

800 

825 

850 


Cost  of  direct  lal)or. 


0  2 
03, 

ol, 

01, 


..do. 
..do. 
..do. 
-do. 
..do. 
..do. 


06. 650 

0  6.750 

8.500 

12.000 

8.500 

1L500 

2L500 

0  1.400 

OL550 

o  1. 825 

03.500 

03.625 

03. 625 

2.100 

2.750 

4000 

2.000 

2.750 

oLOOO 

01.000 

3.000 

4.000 

4.000 

.425 

750 

855 

.425 

O.350 

L150 

OLOOO 

1.150 


o, 
a . 


a\ 

2 
01 

1 
ol 

1, 
OL 


000 
150 
850 
150 
000 
150 
000 
LOGO 
0.976 


Bleach- 
ing or 
dyeing. 


$0,105 
.108 
.115 
.182 
.300 
.350 


.090 
.110 
.140 
.200 
.120 


.070 
.110 
.075 
.060 


.060 
.060 
.100 
.100 
.100 
.100 
.110 
.080 
.180 
.070 
.060 
.074 
.065 
.128 
.159 
.145 
.040 
.050 
.065 

.020 
.060 
.060 
.060 
.060 
.060 
.065 


Wind- 
ing and 

knitting. 


$0,385 
.467 
.542 
.672 
.920 
.950 
.415 
.385 
.580 
.550 
.790 
.750 
L325 
.290 
.555 
.225 
.200 
1.243 
L168 


L280 


380 
350 
560 
620 
.160 
.160 
.170 
.470 
.570 
.630 
.360 
.500 
.730 
.310 
.460 
.040 
.040 
.200 
.320 
.160 
.030 
.020 
.020 

.010 
.040 
.040 
.040 
.040 
.120 
.045 


Loop- 
ing. 


$0,065 
.075 
.075 
.075 
.095 
.095 
.050 
.060 
.065 
.065 
.070 
.070 
.120 
.055 
.055 
.050 
.055 
.080 
.080 
.130 
.130 
.130 
.130 
.130 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.060 
.075 
.085 
.105 
.125 
.160 
.190 
.245 
.070 
.075 
.065 
.065 
.065 


.045 
.055 
.055 
.055 
.055 
.055 
.060 


Sew- 
ing. 


$0  070 
078 
0X0 
085 
140 
140 
1(10 
OtK) 
.0X0 
OW 
.070 
OilO 

.lao 

.000 
.OK) 


.1(10 
.OK) 

.100 

.1(30 
.KK) 

Am 


.055 
.055 
.055 
.065 
.090 
.090 
.0.50 
.065 
.028 
.  033 
.0:30 
.0.50 
.0.50 
.025 
.035 
.035 


Flnish- 
itig. 


.  025 


$0,138 
.148 
.154 
.233 
.400 
.400 
.140 
.130 
.160 
.150 
.190 
.160 
.340 
.060 
.075 
.040 
,055 
.340 
.330 
.380 
,380 
.380 
380 
.480 
.120 
.120 
.120 
120 
120 
120 
170 
235 
.245 
.215 
.230 
.097 
.105 
.230 
.270 
.250 
.055 
.095 
.095 

.052 
.110 
.110 
.110 
.110 
.110 
.125 


o  Gross  price  of  one  down  pairs  sold  to  jobbers  or  commission  houses. 


Total. 


$0,763 
.876 
.966 
1.247 
L855 
1.935 
.705 
.725 
.995 
.985 
1.320 
L190 
L915 
.535 
.875 
.390 
.370 
1.763 
L658 
L950 
2.050 
2.020 
2. 230 
4.450 
.410 
.410 
.460 
.805 
.920 
.990 
.810 
1.030 
1.405 
.835 
1.060 
.309 
.318 
.653 
.864 
.670 
.150 
.200 
.215 

.127 
.265 
.265 
.265 
.265 
.345 
.320 


Jtyle. 

Seamless  or 
full  fashioned. 

Gross 

price 

Local-     of  one 

ity.        dozen 

pairs  to 

retailers. 

Cost  of  direct  labor. 

Estab- 
lish-   £ 
caents. 

Bleach-     Wind- 
ing or     ing  and 
dyeing,  knitting. 

Loop- 
ing. 

Sew- 
ing. 

Finish- 
ing. 

Total. 

15 

15 

17 

17 

17 

18 

18 

18 

18 

18 

19 

19 

21 

21 

B 

c 

A 
B 
C 
A 
B 

c 

D 
E 
A 
B 
A 
B 
C 
A 
B 

c 

A 
B 

c 

D 
£ 
A 
B 

c 

D 
A 
B 
A 
B 

c 

D 
A 
B 
C 
D 
A 
B 

c 

A 
B 

c 

A 
B 

c 

D 

E 

F 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

A 

B 

C 

D 

A 

B 

A 

B 

C 

A 

B 

.      C 

.     A 

.     B 

.      C 

.     A 

.     B 

.      C 

.     A 

.     B 

Seamless 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

East... 

..do... 

..do... 
..do... 
..do... 
..do... 
..do... 

\  $2,000    1 
ioL750 
r    2.000  1 
L    L750   J 
0.775 
0.975 
O.750 
oLOOO 
0.900 
OLOOO 
0.725 
OL050 
O.950 
OL650 
0.8OO 
01,000 
0  1.750 
OL750 
OL850 
OL700 
O.950 
OL650 
O.700 
0.450 
a.894 
0  1.050 
0  1.025 
aL025 
a  1. 025 
0.975 
0  1.150 
0,575 
a.485 
0.6OO 
0.6OO 
0.775 
OL050 
0.825 
0.975 
O.700 
0.725 
0.800 
O.700 
O.650 
0.675 
0.975 
O.950 
O.750 
0.925 
ol.OOO 
01.700 
O.550 
0.6OO 
O.650 
0.6OO 
O.650 
.750 
1.000 
1.100 
2.000 
O.650 
O.900 
O.700 
O.650 
0.675 
O.910 
O.970 
.    0 1.4.30 
.      O.650 
.    ol.OOO 
.      0 .  875 
0 .  675 
0 .  675 
.      0 .  675 
.       1.050 
2.000 

$0,070 

.101 

.063 
.075 
.050 
.060 
.080 
.100 
.060 
.100 
.060 
.065 

$0,045 

.045 

.038 

.165 

.125 

.190 

.020 

.020 

.118 

.135 

.038 

.040 

.070 

.075 

.080 

.053 

.113 

.153 

.150 

.165 

.180 

.050 

.160 

.139 

.150 

.154 

.154 

.040 

.040 

.073 

.063 

.020 

.030 

.080 

.080 

.080 

.080 

.070 

.090 

.090 

.010 

.078 

.075 

.075 

.075 

.100 

.100 

.020 

.030 

.045 

.045 

.045 

.015 

.015 

.065 

.075 

.105 

.120 

.071 

.130 

.010 

.078 

.075 

.233 

.183 

.251 

.063 

.093 

.088 

.079 

.020 

.086 

.191 

.213 

$0,060 

.060 

.051 
.051 
.051 
.045 
.050 
.050 
.047 
.040 
.066 
.070 

$0,025 

.025 
.015 

$0,125 

.135 

.074 
.077 
.074 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.082 
.092 
.089 
.095 
.104 
.110 
.140 
.150 
.120 
.135 
.100 
.065 
.100 
.097 
.099 
.106 
.106 
.063 
.063 
.025 
.025 
.025 
.025 
.069 
.071 
.089 
.089 
.035 
.035 
.035 
.053 
.a53 
.055 
.064 
.066 
.051 
.051 
.084 
.082 
.008 
.006 
.008 
.024 
.011 
.045 
.042 
1        .057 
.067 
.049 
.060 
.053 
.053 
.055 
.085 
.085 
.085 
.058 
.a58 
.058 
.054 
.064 
.056 
.043 
.077 

$0,325 

.366 

.241 

.368 

.300 

.365 

.015 
.015 

.235 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

■     •     «     •    B    \Xw  ••••«      >**« 
•      *     ■      •    •    ^A\^  •••■>       *B«> 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

1 do 

..do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 

South. 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 

do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

do... 

...do.. 

...do.. 

...do.. 

...do.. 

...do.. 

...do.. 
.  ...do.. 
.  ...do.. 
.  ...do.. 
.  ...do.. 
.  ..-do.. 
.  ...do.. 
.  ...do.. 
.  ...do.. 

.255 
.295 

.345 

.020 
.038 
.030 
.025 
.030 
.020 
.020 

.265 
.305 
.189 

.060 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.050 
.020 
.020 
.020 

.255 

21 

.284 

22 

22 

22 

23 

23 

23 

23 

23 

24 

24 

24 

24 

.060 
.070 
.110 
.075 
.090 
.030 
.020 
.045 
.020 
.022 
.020 
.020 
.038 
.038 

.313 
.413 
.463 

.365 

.410 

.330 

.015 

.150 

.020 
.051 
.061 
.067 
.067 
.045 
.045 
.040 
.035 
.040 

.325 

.307 

.332 

.347 

.347 

26 

26 

27 

.016 
.016 

.202 
.202 
.138 

27 

.123 

27 

.015 
.025 

.100 

27 

.080 

28 

.045 
.075 
.045 
.065 
.040 
.030 
.035 
.038 
.033 
.028 
.010 
.010 
.010 
.005 
.010 
.005 

.025 
.028 
.035 
.035 
.030 
.040 
.040 
.040 
.038 
.035 
.045 
.045 
.040 
.040 
.060 
.050 

.219 

28 

.254 

28 

.249 

28 

.269 

29 

.175 

29 

.195 

29 

.200 

30 

30 

.010 

.151 
.202 

30 

.193 

33 

.194 

33 

.196 

33. 

.201 

33 

.196 

33 

33 

34 

.010 
.010 
.010 

.174 
.177 
.063 

34. 

.020 
.020 

.073 

34. 

.073 

34 

.010 
.023 

.049 

34.. 

.049 

35. 

.050 
.050 
.035 
.035 
.034 
.027 
.038 
.033 
.028 
.030 
.050 
.029 
.045 
.045 
.045 
.032 
.042 
.037 
.032 
.029 

.082 
.040 
.060 
.060 
.030 
.050 
.040 
.038 
.035 

.192 

35... 

.207 

35. 

.257 

35... 

.282 

36. 

.184 

36.. 

.267 

37 

37... 

.010 

.1.51 
.202 

37 

.193 

38... 

.348 

38... 

.318 

38..;.; 

.365 

39 

.035 
.045 
.042 
.036 
.036 
.027 

.201 

39 

.241 

39.... 

.233 

40 

.201 

40 

40... 

.011 

.173 
.206 

41 

.266 

41 

1          .319 

I 


o  Qross  price  of  one  dozen  pairs  sold  to  jobbers  or  commission  hoiises. 


144 

Table  57. 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 

-Details  op  Cost  of  Direct  Labor,  Per  Dozen  Pair«  of  Hose  ],y 
Establishments  and  Styles— Continued.  ' 


COST  AND  PROFIT  BY   SPECIFIED  UNITS. 


145 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Style. 


41 

C 

41 

D 

41 

E 

42 

A 

42 

B 

42 

C 

42 

D 

43 

A 

43 

B 

43 

C 

44 

A 

44 

B 

44 

C 

44 

D 

44 

E 

44 

F 

45 

A 

45 

B 

45 

C 

45 

D 

46 

A 

46 

B 

46 

C 

47 

A 

47 

B 

47 

C 

48 

A 

48 

B 

48 

C 

48 

D 

48 

E 

48 

F 

49 

A 

49 

B 

49 

C 

49 

D 

50 

A 

50 

B 

50 

C 

50 

D 

51 

A 

52 

A 

52 

B 

52 

C 

52 

D 

52 

E 

53 

A 

53 

B 

54 

A 

5'! 

B 

54 

C 

54 

D 

54 

E 

55 

A 

55 

B 

55 

C 

56 

A 

56 

B 

56 

C 

56 

D 

57 

A 

57 

B 

57 

C 

57 

D 

58 

A 

58 

B 

58 

C 

59 

A 

59 

B 

59 

C 

59 

D 

59 

E 

59 

F 

59 

G 

60 

A 

60 

B 

60 

C 

60 

D 

60 

E 

60 

F 

Seamless  or 
full  fashioned. 


Seamless 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

do 

do 

do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

do 

do 

— do 

— do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

— do 

...do 

...do 

— do 

— do 

...do 

— do 

— do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.  ..do 

...do 

.  ..do 


Local- 
ity. 


South. 
...do... 
...do... 

East.. 
— do... 

— do 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

— do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

.  ..do.. 

...do.. 

...do.. 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

— do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

— do... 

...do... 

.  ..do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

West.. 

. .do . . 

..do.. 

..do.. 

..do.. 

.  .do .. 

..do.. 

..do.. 

..do.. 

.  -do .. 

.  .do . . 

..do.. 

..do.. 

..do .. 

..do.. 

..do .. 

.  .do . . 

. .do . . 

..do.. 

..do .. 

..do.. 

. .do . . 

. .do . . 

. -do . . 

..do .. 

..do .. 

..do.. 

.  .do .. 

..do .. 

..do .. 

..do.. 

.  .do .. 

..do.. 

.  .do .. 


Gross 
price 
of  one 
dozen 
pairs  to 
retailers. 


$2,150 

1.200 

1.250 

0.625 

O.950 


1 

1 

a 

al 

o3 


1. 
1. 
1. 
1. 

a 
a 


000 

800 

975 

750 

500 

1.0,50 

.9.50 

100 

000 

125 

150 

1..S25 

1.750 

a. 950 

O.S50 


Cost  of  direct  labor. 


ol 
al 

a  3 
al, 
a 
al. 
al. 
al. 
al. 
al. 


850 
.5.50 
400 
8.50 
950 
000 
(KX) 
000 
500 
500 


1. 
2. 
2. 


a  3. 350 
a  3. 000 
a  1.750 
a  3. 250 
0  1.750 
a  3. 250 
0.675 
a. 950 
a  1.5.50 
3.250 
2.050 
al.500 
0  3.500 
ol.OOO 
o  1.8.50 
0  3.500 
2.100 
,375 
100 
0.50 
050 
4.150 
4.1.50 
2.1.50 
2.0.50 
2.0.50 
0  1.500 
o  1, 6.50 
o  1.  8.50 
a  3.  2.50 
2.100 
2.100 
2.0.50 
2.800 
1.100 
2.000 
4.000 
2.1.50 
2.400 
2.1.50 
2.400 
4.000 
2.400 
4.000 
2.0.50 
4.100 
2.7.50 
4.000 
6.2.50 
2.150 


Bleach- 
ing or 
dyeing. 


$0.0«0 
.042 
.052 
.015 


.oao 


.065 

.070 

.1.50 

.080 

.0«2 

.055 

.075 

.075 

.075 

.220 

.06.5 

.060 

.0.50 

.090 

.0,50 

.110 

.1.50 

.0.50 

.06.3 

.060 

.040 

.080 

.035 

.160 

.180 

.080 

.180 

.080 

.220 

.030 

.030 

.030 

.100 

.075 

.061 

.120 

.104 

.073 

.1*8 

.0.50 

.0.50 

.140 

.14.5 

.14.5 

.145 

.145 

.060 

.100 

.110 

.063 

.063 

.0P.3 

.063 

.030 

.  033 

.07fi 

.063 

.060 

.0.50 

.060 

.120 

.070 

.0.50 

.0.50 

.050 

.060 

.a50 

.070 

.070 

.070 

.070 

.070 

.070 


Wind- 
ing and 
knitting. 


$0,221 
.221 
.160 
.090 
.120 
.145 
.125 
.060 
.070 
.100 
.138 
.138 
.148 
.040 
.075 
.040 
.100 
.a50 
.120 
.120 
.220 
.170 
.170 
.150 
.095 
.120 
.135 
.250 
.160 
.325 
.200 
.350 
.160 
.160 
.100 
.100 
.065 
.175 
.205 
.120 
.183 
.155 
.175 
.100 
.060 
.090 
.145 
.195 
.130 
.135 
.135 
.180 
.180 
.150 
.150 
.150 
.165 
.165 
.200 
.240 
.173 
.055 
.205 
.200 
.110 
.150 
.150 
.160 
.230 
.150 
.150 
.160 
.100 
.100 
.125 
.130 
.055 
.055 
.  055 
155 


Loop- 
ing. 


$0.a50 
.050 
.050 
.060 
.070 
.075 
.085 
.060 
.060 
.065 
.070 
.080 
.070 
.070 
.060 
.050 
.050 
.060 
.070 
.070 
.060 
.030 
.052 
.050 
.050 
.080 
.080 
.080 
.080 
.075 
.075 
.075 
.075 
.050 
.050 
.050 
.090 
.080 
.080 
.080 
.060 
.080 
.080 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.080 
.080 
.080 
.080 
.080 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.080 


.070 
.070 
.060 
.080 
.080 
.048 
.050 
.070 
.050 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.070 
.085 
.060 
.070 
.085 
,045 


Sew- 
ing, 


10. 


035 
a35 
035 


.020 
.020 
.020 
.030 
.030 


.020 


.030 
.040 


.010 
.010 
.030 
.035 
.015 


.035 
.010 


.018 

.025 
.0.30 


.025 


.052 


.020 
.020 
.025 


Finish- 
ing. 


Total. 


o  Gross  price  of  one  dozen  pairs  sold  to  jobbers  or  commission  bouses. 


$0,078 

$0.  -m 

.043 

.m 

.045 

.ZM 

.065 

.220 

.065 

.2J5 

.065 

.280 

.065 

.250 

.125 

.355 

.145 

.395 

.195 

.565 

.090 

.368 

.088 

.348 

.095 

.3^3 

.090 

.295 

.100 

.350 

.100 

.305 

.1.34 

..5.54 

.114 

.319 

.065 

.295 

.062 

.282 

.095 

.465 

.100 

..390 

.100 

.450 

.105 

.465 

.090 

.265 

.105 

.340 

.100 

.365 

.095 

.435 

.120 

.470 

.110 

.590 

.220 

.660 

.200 

.810 

.118 

.443 

.133 

.55S 

.143 

.428 

.163 

..593 

.085 

.245 

.095 

.3.50 

.095 

.3S0 

.1.50 

.495 

.115 

.46.1 

.167 

.463 

.230 

.m 

.138 

.420 

.218 

.4.56 

.236 

.,584 

.045 

..310 

.045 

..360 

.140 

.480 

.170 

..520 

.170 

..520 

.180 

.m 

.180 

..58.5 

.150 

.440 

.150 

.480 

.150 

.490 

.077 

.375 

.077 

.375 

.077 

.410 

.087 

.460 

.142 

.  42.5 

.137 

.330 

.152 

..503 

.145 

..5.30 

.130 

.360 

.190 

.470 

.250 

.  ,540 

.097 

.425 

.098 

.  .44S 

.118 

.m 

.118 

..36,8 

.098 

.378 

.135 

.  365 

.163 

..383 

.110 

.375 

.108 

.393 

.118 

..323 

.120 

.  .335 

.113 

..348 

.118 

.388 

Table  57. — Details  of  Cost  op  Direct  Labor,  Per  Dozen  Pairs  of  Hose,  by 

Establishments  and  Styles — Continued. 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


60.. 
61.. 
61.. 
61.. 
61.. 
61.. 
61.. 
61.. 
62.. 
62.. 
66.. 
66.. 
66.. 
66.. 
67.. 
67.. 
67.. 
68.. 
68.. 
68.. 
68.. 
68., 
69., 
69., 
69., 


70. 
70. 
70. 
70. 
70. 
70. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
71. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
72. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 
73. 


Style. 


G 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

G 

A 

B 

A 

B 

C 

D 

A 

B 

C 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

G 

H 

I 

J 

K 

L 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

G 

H 

I 

J 

K 

L 

M 

N 

O 

P 

Q 

R 

A 

B 

C 

D 

E 

F 

G 

H 

I 

.T 

K 

L 

M 


Seamless  or 
full  fashioned. 


Seamless 

do 

do 

do 

■  *  >   ■   ■  vftxF  •••••«>* 

>  •  •    >  v^Av  •■••••*» 

•  ■■  ■  *  *  VIU  •••«*■•* 

do 

do 

do 

do 

•  ■  «  a  •  \Aw  ••■••••• 

■  *  *  »  *  ^l^^  *•     ««•**« 

>  a  a  >  ■  V»W  ••••••>> 

•  *  «  a  a  V&\#  ••     •vvvaa 

do 

a     •    a    a    a  \X  V   •••••*•■ 

»  »  »  m  mXJLKM  ■•••■«*a 

■  »   •    a  a  vLU  •••*•*•• 
a    •    a    •   aXAv  •••••••• 

a    a    a    a    •  vlV^  ••••••aa 

•  a    a    a    •  VlV'  ••••••a* 

•  •   a   •   •  vL\^  ••••••aa 

a     a    a    a    •  VXw   ••••••aa 

do 

a    a   a    •   aXX^^  •••••■•a 

•  •    a    a   •  VX  V  •••••••a 

do 

do 

do 

•  a    ■    •  •  vAW  •••■•••a 

do 

a  •  •  •  •  \X  V  «■••••■• 
a    a    a    «    *  \A\^  ••••••a* 

do 

a    •   a    a   a  V&V  ••••••aa 

•  a    a    •   •  XjIw  ••■••aaa 

Full  fashioned 

•  ~  ^    »   m  \Xv  ■•••aaaa 

^    m  ^   m   »  \m\M  ■•••••aa 

m    m  m    9  » \A\/  ■•••«••• 

•  a  »    m    »  \A\f  •••••••■ 

^    ^  m    m    m  \JL\M  •••••••• 

Seamless 

a   •   a    a   a  Vlw  ••••••aa 

a    •    a    •    a  \X\/  •••••■•a 

do 

a    a    a    a    •  \AVf  •••••••a 

do 

•  a    a     a    •  ^X  V  ••     •••••• 

a    a    a    •    axXV/  ••••»••■ 

9    m    »    m    9  \^\f  ••■••••■ 

do 

a    a   a   a    a  XAVr  ••■•«••• 

do 

a    «    •    •    cXXV  •••••••■ 

•  »   m   m   ^  \X\^  •••■••aa 

do 

•  •  a  •  •  \a&\/  •••■••«■ 
a  a  a  •  a  ^X  V  ••■■■■•■ 
>  •  •  •  a  U  V  ••««*aaa 

do 

a  a  a  •  a  V&\J  ••••■«aa 

»  m  »  m  ^  \X\^  •••waaaa 

a  a  a  a  a  ^Xv/  •••••aaa 

■  a  a  a  •  VAU  aaaaaaai 

Full  fashioned 

m    m    »   »    »  \A\J  aaa*»aaa 

•  a   a    •   a  \Xv  •••••••■ 

Seamless 

do 

a  a  a  a  a  VA  V  •••«*aaa 
a   a   a    a   a  VE\/  ••••■••■ 

do 


Local- 
ity. 


West.. 
.  .do . . 
. . .do . . 
. . .do . . 
. .do . . 
. .do . . 
.  .do . 
. .  .do . , 
East.. 
. .  .do . 
...do. 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
.    do. 
. .  .do . 
. .  -do . 
..  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
— do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
...do . 
. .  .do . 
. . .do . 
..  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. . -do . 

do . 

. .  .do . 
— do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
— do . 

do . 

. . .do . 
. . .do . 
...do. 
. .  .do. 
. .  .do . 
West. 
. . .do . 
. . .do . 

do . 

. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
...do. 
...do . 
...do. 
...do. 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 

do . 

. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. . .do . 

do . 

. .  .do . 
...do . 
. .  .do . 

do . 

...do. 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
— do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 


Gross 
price 
of  one 
dozen 
pairs  to 
retailers. 


Cost  of  direct  labor. 


o, 
o. 
o. 

o. 
a. 


$2,050 

2.150 

2.750 

4.250 

2.900 

4.250 

2.900 

2.900 

a. 520 

0.625 

850 

850 

850 

850 

950 

O.950 

ol.OOO 

1.000 

1.000 

.950 

1.000 

1.850 

0  1.700 

1.050 

01.900 

0  1.250 

0  1.050 

O.650 

0  1.650 

0  1.600 

0  1.550 

0  1.750 

o  1. 575 

01.750 

Ol 
Ol 

a 
ol 

Ol 


000 

800 

875 

750 

900 

0  1.600 

0  3.750 

03. 625 

03. 600 

o  1.800 

03.375 

03.375 

1.250 

2.150 

2.250 

2.750 

4.250 

1.150 

1.400 

2.100 

2.250 

1.900 

2.100 

.875 

1.100 

2.100 

2.150 

2.150 

2.250 

2.250 

2.050 

1.100 

2.000 

2.150 

2.150 

4.250 

4.250 

2.150 

2.000 

1.100 

2.150 

1.250 

2.000 


Bleach- 
ing or 
dyeing. 


$0,070 
.040 
.040 
.040 
.070 
.070 
.090 
.110 
.070 
.055 


.040 
.035 
.020 
.020 
.030 
.044 
.025 
.040 
.030 
.026 
.008 
.055 
.065 
.065 
.090 
.080 
.090 
.077 
.088 
.052 
.030 
.150 
.127 


.029 


.030 
.015 
.084 
.071 
.083 
.064 


.061 
.108 
.048 
.063 
.040 
.059 


Wind- 
ing and 
knitting. 


.074 
.045 
.080 
.044 
.056 
.068 
.074 
.052 
.062 
.071 
.072 
.074 


.096 
.121 
.074 
.092 
.101 
,153 


$0,125 
.150 
.150 
.180 
.080 
.100 
.240 
.200 
.020 
.040 
.110 
.110 
.110 
.110 
.117 
.117 
.117 
.125 
.135 
.118 
.118 
.145 
.149 
.142 
.179 
.173 
.132 
.109 
.170 
.150 
.150 
.143 
.143 
.185 
.100 
.105 
.106 
.111 
.155 
.053 
.488 
.452 
.557 
.470 
.450 
.450 
.040 
.247 
.242 
.252 
.042 
.113 
.163 
.209 
.239 
.178 
.209 
.093 
.120 
.161 
.114 
.197 
.155 
.105 
.140 
.120 
.164 
.164 
.065 
.595 
.492 
.427 
.162 
.137 
.220 
.137 
.137 


Loop- 
ing. 


$0 


070 
070 
.070 
.080 
.070 
.070 
.060 
.060 


.aw 

.053 
.053 
.053 
.045 
.045 
.050 
.060 
.060 
.a50 
.WW 
.080 
.077 
.057 
.0.57 
.a57 
.067 
.040 
.070 
.055 
.055 
.050 
.a50 
.050 
.040 
.050 
.045 
.060 
.060 
.060 
.0.53 
.0.53 
.a58 
.053 
.053 
.053 
.a50 
.050 
.050 
.050 
.070 
.045 
.045 
.050 
.a50 
.050 
.050 

.o;j3 

.040 
.050 
.040 
.070 
.060 
.040 
.073 
.051 
.094 
.089 
.086 
.084 
.078 
.074 
.055 
.047 
.060 
.047 
.047 


Sew- 
ing. 


$0,020 
.020 


.020 
.020 


.060 
.060 
.080 
.060 
.038 
.038 
.018 


.045 


Finish- 
ing. 


.030 
.075 
.075 
.065 


$0,110 
.130 
.140 
.140 
.140 
.140 
.140 
.140 
.070 
.080 
.082 
.082 
.082 
.082 
.068 
.068 
.069 
.100 
.100 
.122 
.122 
.120 
.105 
.108 
.116 
.115 
.102 
.099 
.095 
.095 
.095 
.095 
.095 
.095 
.130 
.149 
.111 
.161 
.126 
.134 
.!» 
.141 
.174 
.155 
.137 
.126 
.089 
.057 
.049 
.087 
.102 
.078 
.077 
.082 
.082 
.077 
.077 
.017 
.049 
.075 
.072 
.100 
.116 
.063 
.106 
.102 
.119 
.092 
.121 
.198 
.187 
.175 
.119 
.085 
.095 
.089 
.095 


Total. 


$0,375 
.390 
.400 
.450 
.380 
.400 
.530 
.510 
.180 
.195 
.245 
.245 
.245 
.245 
.230 
.230 
.236 
.325 
.330 
.310 
.310 
.375 
.00 
.332 
.392 
.375 
.327 
.256 
.390 
.365 
.365 
.378 
.368 
.420 
.347 
.392 
.314 
.362 
.491 
.374 
.757 
.706 
.898 
.738 
.708 
.682 
.281 
.425 
.424 
.453 
.348 
.297 

.389 
.434 
.345 
.395 
.143 
.283 
.331 
.306 
.411 
.377 
.276 
.393 
.325 
.439 
.416 
.374 
.026 
.832 
.837 
.457 
.343 
.467 
.374 
.432 


o  Gross  price  of  one  dozen  pairs  sold  to  jobbers  or  commission  houses. 


9963°— 15- 


-10 


MANUFACTURING  AND  SELLING. 


147 


CHAPTER  IV. 

MANUFACTURING  AND  SELLING. 

MANUFACTUEINQ  CONDITIONS. 

When  hosiery  manufacturers  who  complained  thai  the  industry  was 
not  in  a  prosperous  condition  were  questioned  as  to  the  cause,  inany 
of  them  placed  the  blame  on  the  retailers.  Years  ago  the  retail  i)rico8 
of  hosiery  became  fixed  at  certain  amounts,  usually  12^  cents,  25  rents, 
50  cents,  75  cents,  $1,  $1.50,  and  $2  per  pair.  The  amount  of  hosiery 
retailed  at  other  figures,  except  in  reduction  sales,  is  smaU.  Tlu> 
pubhc  has  become  educated  to  these  certain  fixed  prices,  and  if  the 
first  retail  prices  are  different,  there  are  suspicions  tliat  the  goods  are 
seconds  or  are  damaged  in  some  way. 

Manufacturers  allege  that  the  cost  of  retail  distribution  has  greatly 
increased  during  recent  years,  especially  the  expenses  for  clerk  hire, 
rent,  store  equipment,  advertising,  and  dehvery  service.  His  ex- 
penses being  larger,  the  retailer,  to  make  the  same  percentage  of 
profit  as  formerly,  must  buy  his  goods  cheaper.  As  the  standard 
prices  of  hosiery  prevent  him  from  retailing  certain  grades  at  higher 
prices,  he  forces  the  manufacturer  to  sell  to  him  cheaper.  Often  this 
is  done  by  getting  a  sample  and  a  bid  on  an  order  from  one  manu- 
facturer, and  submitting  the  sample  to  other  manufacturers  for 
bids,  the  lowest,  of  course,  being  ac((^pted.  In  this  way  the  manu- 
facturers are  brought  into  severe  com[)etition  with  one  another,  and  it 
is  most  severe  when  they  are  dealing  with  a  very  large  jobber  or 
retailer  or  with  a  chain  of  connected  stores.  In  recent  years  there 
has  been  a  tendency  in  the  direction  of  combinations  of  i-etail  stores 
in  the  same  city  or  in  different  cities. 

The  hosiery  manufacturer  who  is  forced  by  trade  conditions  to 
accept  less  for  his  product  has  nobody  to  whom  he  can  transf(»r  the 
loss.  On  the  contrary,  his  expenses  have  increased.  During  the  last 
few  years  before  the  war  in  Europe  began,  the  average  price  of  cotton 
increased  several  cents  a  pound,  and  cotton  yarns  increased  propor- 
tionately. The  manufacturer  must  bear  the  entire  burden  of  tlio 
increased  cost  of  the  raw  material.  The  demands  of  workers  have 
been  more  and  more  exacting,  and  wages  have  increased,  while  th(^ 
number  of  working  hours  has  been  reduced.  The  laws  against  chil- 
dren working  have  become  more  rigid  and  have  been  more  strictly 
enforced.  In  many  States  the  manufacturer  has  had  to  spend  more 
money  to  comply  with  the  requirements  regarding  sanitation  and 
safety  devices.  In  many  States,  also,  workmen's  compensation  acts 
have  been  passed,  which  amount  to  a  considerable  tax  on  manufac- 
turers. In  an  efficient  plant  new  machinery  must  be  constantly 
purchased,  and  the  demand  for  finer  goods  has  made  the  purchase  of 
new  machinery  more  necessary.  During  the  last  few  years,  therefore, 
hosiery  manufacturers  have  been  in  an  unfortunate  position,  witli 
their  cost  of  manufacturing  increased  and  the  prict^s  at  which  they 
must  sell  decreased.  This  condition  has  led  to  ruinous  competition 
among  them. 

146 


Many  manufacturers  are  discouraged  by  these  conditions  and  do  not 
know  how  to  remedy  them.  Some  of  them  say  that  the  only  way  to 
protect  themselves  against  the  jobbers  and  retailers  that  force  manu- 
facturers to  come  to  their  own  terms  is  for  the  manufacturers  to 
combine  and  establish  a  centrally  controlled  selling  agency,  but  it  is 
admitted  that  this  plan  is  impracticable  because  it  would  conflict 
with  Federal  antitrust  laws. 

The  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers, 
with  headquarters  at  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  is  composed  largely  of  ho- 
siery manufacturers.  It  holds  annual  conventions  and  discusses 
matters  relating  to  manufacturing  and  trading  conditions  in  the  in- 
dustry. But  no  combination,  or  at  least  no  successful  combination, 
of  hosiery  manufacturers  to  fix  prices  has  ever  been  made,  and,  as 
before  stated,  the  competition  between  manufacturers  is  severe.  The 
impression  that  one  receives  in  talking  with  hosiery  manufacturers  is 
that  they  are  very  distrustful  of  one  another. 

The  condition  in  the  industry  caused  by  the  manufacturer  having 
increased  expenses  and  not  being  able  to  contend  against  falling  prices 
paid  by  his  customers,  l^he  jobbers  and  retailers,  has  caused  nim  in 
some  cases  to  make  hosiery  in  lighter  weights  and  reduced  lengths,^ 
and  also  to  knit  the  hosiery  more  loosely,  thus  saving  the  difference  in 
the  cost  of  raw  material.  If  wool  is  used,  a  smaller  proportion  of  it  is 
used.  The  result  is  that  the  consumer  secures  an  inferior  article  with- 
out any  reduction  in  the  price  that  he  pays  to  the  retailer. 

There  is  a  slight  tendency  toward  larger  factories  in  the  hosiery  and 
knit-goods  industries.  As  shown  by  Table  2,  on  page  12,  of  this 
report,  in  1899  there  were  1,006  such  factories  with  83,691  employees, 
an  average  of  83  employees  per  establishment,  while  10  years  later 
there  were  1,374  factories  with  129,275  employees,  an  average  of  94 
employees.  One  thing  that  limits  the  growth  of  factories  is  the  scar- 
city of  labor.  When  aU  the  suitable  labor  near  a  factory  has  been 
utilized,  the  establishment,  if  it  is  enlarged,  must  start  other  factories 
or  branches  in  other  localities. 

LARGE   AND   SMALL  FACTORIES    CONTRASTED. 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  whether  large  or  small  factories 
can  be  managed  more  successfully.  Many  manufacturers  were  inter- 
viewed on  this  subject.  Some  of  them  said  that  competition  is  so 
strong  on  staple  goods  that  a  big  production  is  necessary  to  make  a 
profit.  Some  said  that  system,  efficiencv,  division  of  labor,  and  good 
labor  conditions  can  best  be  developed  in  the  large  factory.  One 
said  that  the  great  success  of  the  knitting  industry  in  Germany 
during  recent  years  was  due  to  the  fact  that  very  large  factories  had 
developed  there.     Another  said : 

The  tendency  in  the  business  is  toward  large  factories.  A  large  plant  on  account  of 
buying  in  large  quantities  can  always  beat  its  small  competitor  in  prices,  and  on  account 
oj  greater  production  can  afford  to  take  a  narrower  margin  of  profit.  A  large  corporation 
also  has  an  ad\^ntage  over  the  smaller  concerns  in  selling.  The  large  factory  with  its 
greater  capital  is  enabled  to  do  more  advertising  and  can  do  its  own  selling,  while  the 
smaller  companies  are  dependent  on  agents  and  jobbers  to  dispose  of  their  production. 

Some  manufacturers  contend  that  the  small  factory,  which  is  of 
necessity  under  closer  personal  supervision,  can  be  operated  with  a 
greater  proportion  of  profit  than  the  larger  factory.  One  manu- 
facturer expressed  this  opinion: 

The  tendency  in  knitting  mills  is  toward  larger  factories,  both  by  the  natural  growth 
of  the  smaller  ones  and  by  consolidation.    The  advantages  of  the  larger  factories  are 


148 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING  AND  SELLING. 


149 


problematicaL  The  larger  output  to  a  certain  extent  reduces  the  fixed  overhead 
charges;  but  the  larger  factories  are  at  a  disadvantage  from  th«>  fact  that  thcv  must 
to  a  great  extent  depend  on  hired  labor  to  do  the  work  that  in  wnaller  plants  is  done 
by  the  owners.  The  personal  equation,  the  intense  interest  of  the  owner  who  reaps 
the  sole  benefit  of  success  in  his  plant,  is  lost  in  too  large  an  institution. 

The  data  secured  from  establishments  during  this  investigation 
were  grouped  according  to  the  products  of  the  establishments,  and  to 
some  extent  according  to  their  locations.  The  data  in  each  group 
were  arranged  in  the  order  of  the  net  sales  of  the  establishments, 
the  one  with  the  smallest  sales  first  and  the  one  with  the  largest 
sales  last.  An  examination  of  Table  25,  page  56,  showing  the  percent- 
ages of  profit  on  net  sales  by  establishments  and  groups,  showH  that 
there  were  no  decided  differences  in  the  percentages  of  profit  between 
the  smaller  and  the  larger  establishments  for  each  group. 

The  fact  that  the  crude  cost-finding  systems  whicn  are  so  prevalent 
in  the  hosiery  industry  lead  to  unintelligent  price  making  and  cut- 
throat competition  is  discussed  in  sections  of  the  report  headed 
* 'Inadequate  cost-finding  methods"  and  ''Simplified  cost  accounting.' 
A  manufacturer  who  was  interviewed  said  that  it  was  not  so  much 
foreign  competition  that  was  hurting  the  hosiery  business,  but  rather 
fierce  domestic  competition.  The  seamless  hosiery  business  is  pecu- 
liar in  the  fact  that  it  does  not  require  a  great  outlay  of  capital  to 
be  able  to  undertake  it.  Any  person  with  a  capital  of  $500  or  $1,000 
can  buy  a  few  machines  by  making  a  small  cash  payment,  rent  a 
room,  and  start  a  seamless-hosiery  plant.  Hundrc^ds  of  such  ])lants 
have  sprung  up  all  over  the  country  in  recent  years  and  of  course  this 
has  had  its  effect  upon  the  business. 

Table  58  shows  the  number  of  new  hosiery  and  other  knit-goods 
mills  which  went  into  operation  hi  1914,  according  to  Davi<lson's 
Textile  Bluebook,  1914-15,  pages  43  to  47. 

Table  58. — Hosiery  and  Knit-Goods  Mills  Which  Went  Into  Operation 

IN  1914. 


1     f 


states. 

Ho- 
siery. 

Under- 
wear 

Sweat- 
ers and 
bathing 
suits. 

Ties, 
etc. 

Gloves. 

Alabama 

1 
1 

California 

2 
1 

Connecticut. 

Georgia 

2 

Illinois 

% 

Indiana 

1 
1 

1 

Kentucky 

Louisiana 

1 

Maine 

2 

Maryland 

I 

Massachusetts 

3 
1 
2 

1 

Michigan 

1 

1 

Minnesota 

New  Hampshire 

1 

New  Jersey 

5 

3 

18 

6' 

47 

3 
3 

New  York 

2 

North  Carolina 

Ohio 

1 

*  2 

Oklahoma 

1 

Oregon 

1 

7 

3 

Pennsylvania 

42 
1 
3 
5 

1 
1 

13 

Rhode  Island 

South  Carolina 

Tennessee           

1 

Utah                        

Vermont                   •• 

West  Virginia           

1 

5 

Wisconsin 



Total 

94 

23 

78 

10 

4 

— 

It  will  be  seen  that  during  1914,  94  new  hosiery  mills  went  into 
operation — 42  of  them  in  Pennsylvania  and  18  in  North  Carolina. 
iTiese  mills  were  large  enough  to  attract  attention,  but  there  is  no 
way  even  to  estimate  the  number  of  small  producers,  plants  with 
anywhere  from  10  to  25  machines,  which  have  started  in  business 
during  the  last  two  or  three  years.  It  was  said  that  a  vast  number 
of  these  plants  were  started  by  men  who  had  worked  in  mills  and 
were  more  or  less  familiar  with  the  manufacture  of  seamless  hosiery 
but  had  no  other  business  training.  They  could  turn  out  a  finished 
3roduct,  but  were  utterly  unfamiliar  with  buying  or  selling  and  other 
3usiness  conditions  which  are  so  vital  to  any  successfully  conducted 
manufacturing  enterprise.  Their  methods  of  cost  accounting  are 
poor  and  inaccurate,  and  frequently  they  will  sell  an  article  at  a  loss 
without  knowing  it.  It  was  stated  that  these  small  manufacturers 
were  greatly  increasing  competition,  with  small  gain  to  themselves. 

EFFICIENCY   NECESSARY   FOR   SUCCESS. 

In  former  years,  when  competition  was  less  keen,  many  concerns  of 
this  description,  which  started  on  a  very  limited  capital,  were  success- 
ful. At  that  time  profits  were  sufficient  to  stand  the  enormous  drain 
due  to  cancellations,  inefficient  methods,  etc.  At  the  present  time, 
when  profits  have  been  reduced,  due  to  sharp  competition  resulting 
from  tiie  great  expansion  of  the  business,  there  is  absolute  need  of 
putting  manufacturing  estabUshments  on  an  economical  and  efficient 
oasis.  Formerly  a  badly  located,  poorly  managed,  inefficient  plant 
could  make  a  profit.  Now  all  is  changed,  and  the  manufacturer 
of  seamless  hosiery  in  order  to  attain  success  must  have  a  mill 
equipped  with  up-to-date  machinery,  managed  in  an  economical 
and  scientific  manner,  with  a  system  of  cost  accounting  which  will 
enable  him  at  all  times  to  know  the  true  condition  of  nis  business 
and  the  actual  cost  of  every  article  produced. 

As  the  styles  and  weight  of  hosiery  have  changed  greatly  in  recent 
years,  he  must  also  keep  abreast  of  the  times  in  regard  to  these 
changes  or  he  will  have  difficulty  in  marketing  his  product  at  a  profit. 

Most  of  the  hosiery  made  oi  cotton  is  manufactured  in  factories 
which  buy  the  yarns  they  use.  Many  manufacturers  allege  that  it 
is  cheaper  to  buy  than  to  spin  yarns,  especially  the  grades  that  are 
spun  in  the  South,  where  the  labor  cost  is  lower  than  in  the  North. 
Most  of  the  hosiery  made  of  wool  or  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed  is 
manufactured  in  factories  which  spin  their  own  woolen  or  worsted 
yams.  These  factories,  however,  usuallv  buy  the  cotton  yarn  they 
use.  Mixtures  of  cotton  and  wool,  with  or  without  some  noils  or 
wool  shoddy,  are  called  merino.  The  principal  reason  why  manu- 
facturers spin  their  own  merino  yams  is  that  they  may  vary  the  pro- 
portion of  wool  used  in  the  yarn  according  to  the  market  price  of 
wool,  which  is  subject  to  great  fluctuation.  If  a  certain  grade  of 
w  ool  is  selling  at  40  cents  a  pound  one  month  and  the  next  month 
the  price  i§  increased  to  50  cents,  the  manufacturer  is  almost  sure  to 
use  more  cotton,  noils,  waste,  or  shoddy  in  the  yarn  mixture. 

Buying  wool,  cotton,  or  yarns  is  a  form  of  speculation  that  is 
unavoidable  in  the  business.  When  wool  is  low,  manufacturers 
buy  in  large  quantities,  probably  a  year's  supply;  when  it  is  high, 
they  buy  only  according  to  their  immediate  needs.     A  manufacturer 


ii 


150 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING   AND.  SELLING. 


151 


\ 


\ 


that  uses  cotton  or  cotton  yams  usually  buys  a  year's  supply  in  the 
fall.  He  does  this,  because,  as  a  rule,  the  price  of  cotton  is  cheaper 
in  the  fall  than  at  any  other  season  of  the  year,  and  also  because  lie 
wishes  to  be  sure  that  he  will  have  a  sufficient  supply  on  hand  to 
keep  his  factory  running  steadily.  If  cotton  or  yarn  is  high  in  the 
fall,  the  manufacturer  usually  buys  in  small  quantities. 

Cotton  yarns  spun  on  ring  f ramies  are  wound  on  cones.  Mule- 
spun  yarns  are  wound  on  cops.  If  yams  are  to  be  dyed,  they  are 
reeled  into  skeins  and  after  dyeing  are  rewound  on  cones. 

Mills  that  sell  yam  allow  2  per  cent  for  tare  on  the  cones  and  the 
paper  used  in  the  packing  cases.  On  some  kinds  of  cones  thti  tare 
allowance  is  only  1  per  cent.  Some  manufacturers  who  buy  yarns 
claim  that  the  tare  allowance  is  not  enough,  and  that  it  should  be  4 
per  cent  to  equal  the  weight  of  the  paper  and  cones.  At  the  annual 
convention  oi  the  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear 
Manufacturers  held  in  Philadelphia  May  4-6,  1915,  the  board  of 
directors  made  a  report  which  said: 

Considerable  progreBs  has  been  made  in  promoting  the  net- weight  policy  in  the 
sales  and  purchases  of  }  arns,  by  which  the  .act  iial  buyer  is  spare*!  the  cost  of  wrapping 
at  the  price  of  yam.  Many  manufacturers,  however,  have  yet  to  realize  the  impor- 
tance of  net-weight  buying. 

One  reason  why  some  manufacturers  have  not  been  prosperous 
during  recent  years  is  that  they  have  been  trying  to  change  from 
selling  their  product  to  jobbers  to  selling  it  to  retailers.  The  estab- 
lishment of  a  trade  with  retailers  is  an  expensive  process.  Mucli 
more  money  must  be  spent  for  salaries,  commissions,  and  expenses  of 
salesmen,  and  more  for  the  enlarged  credit  department  of  the  factory. 
There  is  also  a  liability  of  greater  losses  from  bad  debts.  Moreover, 
the  requirements  of  retailers  often  force  the  manufacturer  dealing 
with  them  direct  to  turn  out  too  great  a  variety  of  styles. 

INADEQUATE  COST-EINDING  METHODS. 

Adequate  cost  finding  is  one  of  the  greatest  needs  in  many  lines 
of  manufacturing.  Whole  industries  have  suffered  from  the  general 
lack  of  intelligent  costing.  The  unintelligent  or  unj)rogressive  manu- 
facturer often  makes  prices  to  undersell  his  compi^titors,  not  really 
knowing  whether  he  is  making  or  losing  money  on  the  goods  he  sells, 
but  in  some  cases  thinking  he  is  making  money  when  ne  is  actually 
losing.  So  much  business  is  done  in  this  cutthroat  manner  that  even 
establishments  which  have  installed  elaborate  cost-finding  systems 
have  been  forced  to  abandon  them  and  revert  to  the  ruinous  ])olicy 
of  meeting  the  competition  of  reckless  business  rivals,  regardless  of 
consequence.  They  do  this  to  hold  their  trade,  hoping  that  profits  on 
some  lines  will  compensate  for  losses  on  other  lines.  The  result  is 
that  many  lines  of  the  manufacturing  business  are  cut  to  pieces.  The 
national  manufacturers'  associations  could  do  no  greater  service  for 
their  members  than  to  urge  them  to  adopt  adequate  cost-finding 
systems. 

The  hosiery  industry  in  the  United  States  is  one  which  sufrci*s 
particularly  irom  the  lack  of  an  adequate  cost-finding  system  to 
determine  the  actual  costs  of  certain  grades  of  the  production. 
There  is  a  variety  of  methods  of  calculating  the  charge  for  gc^nenil 
expense,  and  many  of  them  are  very  crude.     Some  manufacturers 


that  have  adopted  a  really  scientific  cost-finding  system  have  learned 
that  they  could  not  sell  certain  grades  of  goods  at  prices  based  on 
costs  found  by  the  system,  because  competitors  that  calculated  costs 
by  an  imperfect  method  would  undersell  them. 

Most  manufacturers  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  admit  that  the  lack 
of  an  accurate  and  uniform  method  of  cost  finding  is  a  drawback 
which  seriously  interferes  with  the  prosperity  of  the  industry.  The 
National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers  has 
considered  the  matter  for  years  but  has  been  unable  to  agree  on  a 
standard  of  distributing  overhead  expense.  The  following  is  quoted 
from  the  proceedings  of  the  annual  convention  of  the  association  held 
in  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  May  12-14,  1914:  « 

Clyde  E.  Murray,  of  the  Harrison-Murray  Association,  New  York  City,  then  read 
his  address  on  "Operating  costs  and  economies,"  which  was  followed  with  close 
attention.  At  the  conclusion  of  this  address  the  president  remarked  that  the  com- 
mittee on  cost  accounting,  which  was  appointed  last  year,  has  been  carefully  con- 
sidering this  subject,  but  that  it  has  not  arrived  at  any  definite  conclusion  as  to  the 
best  methods  of  cost  accounting,  and  asked  that  the  committee  be  continued. 

The  following  also  is  quoted  from  the  report  of  the  board  of  directors 
to  the  convention: 

The  matter  of  educational  work  along  the  lines  of  cost  methods  has  been  a  question 
of  vital  interest  to  the  association  and  to  individual  members  ever  since  the  associa- 
tion was  organized,  and  we  presume  that  this  topic  will  always  remain  a  vital  issue 
in  our  work.  Repeated  efforts  have  been  made  to  formulate  plans  that  would  enable 
knitting  manufacturers  to  adopt  practical  methods  for  the  accurate  costing  of  their 
goods,  but  as  yet  no  generally  accepted  system  has  been  agreed  upon.  Your  board  of 
directors  have  had  frequent  conferences  during  the  year  with  cost  and  efficiency 
experts,  who  have  made  investigations  among  knitting  manufacturers  with  the  idea 
of  developing  plans  for  assisting  the  manufacturers  on  this  vital  question.  We  hope 
some  tangible  plan  may  be  adopted  that  will  prove  effective  in  the  object  sought. <» 

At  the  annual  convention  held  in  Philadelphia  May  4-6,  1915,  the 
board  of  directors  made  a  report  but  did  not  report  on  the  subject  of 
cost-finding,  and  the  subject  was  not  considered  by  the  convention. 

The  following  paper  on  '' Operating  costs  ana  economies,"  by 
Clyde  E.  Murray,  of  the  Harrison-Murray  Association,  New  York 
City,  read  by  him  to  the  convention  of  1914,  shows  how  much  at  sea 
manufacturers  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  are  with  regard  to  cost 
accounting,  and  emphasizes  the  importance  to  the  industry  of  the 
adoption  of  a  uniform  system : 

Manufacturers  to-day  find  themselves  between  the  devil  and  the  deep  sea — between 
the  "devil"  of  constantly  increasing  cost  for  materials  and  labor,  and  the  "deep  sea" 
of  constantly  increasing  competition. 

There  is  a  certain  form  of  competition  to  which  the  manufacturer  can  not  well  object, 
to  that  of  the  man  who  knows  exactly  what  his  goods  cost  and  whose  prices,  if  low, 
reflect  advantages  actually  secured  through  volume  or  b>^  reason  of  highly  efficient 
methods  of  production.  The  form  of  competition  which  is  most  dreaded,  however, 
is  that  of  the  man  who,  having  no  proper  knowledge  of  cost,  sets  prices  which  preclude 
the  possibility  of  there  being  an  adequate  profit  in  the  business  for  anyone. 

The  natural  accumulative  effect  of  this  unintelligent  competition  was  really  the 
prime  factor  in  causing  the  formation  of  associations  in  various  lines,  with  the  conse- 
quent agreements  relative  to  sales  prices.  Recent  legislation,  however,  has  tabooed 
these  selling  agreements,  and  manufacturers  find  themselves  contending  with  the 
same  old  discouraging  competition.  Despite  this  fact  this  legislation  has  been  a 
beneficial  move  in  that  it  has  forced  manufacturers  to  approach  the  problem  from 
an  entirely  different  angle,  namely,  uniform  cost-finding  methods.  No  matter  how 
inany  selling  agreements  might  be  in  force,  the  e\'il  of  manufacturing  some  portion  of 
the  product  at  a  loss  would  still  be  in  evidence  without  an  exact  knowledge  of  final 
costs.    Absence  of  this  knowledge  forces  a  manufacturer  to  govern  his  selling  price 

a  Textile  Manufacturers  Journal,  May  16, 1914,  p.  35. 


15^ 


THfi  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING  AND  SELLING. 


153 


by  that  of  his  competitor.    His  competitor  is  just  as  liable  to  be  producing  at  a  loss 
in  fact  more  so,  as  the  natural  law  of  competition  has  a  tendency  to  lower  selling?  pri(«4 
from  year  to  year,  due  to  the  sending  out  of  leaders  with  an  attnw  tive  price  attached 
and  the  almost  utter  impossibility  of  getting  that  price  back  to  its  onginal  figure.  ' 

That  is  true  in  your  line  as  well  as  many  otliers.  A  number  of  industries,  howevt^r, 
have  awakened  to  the  fact  that  it  is  business  suicide  to  continue  as  tliey  ha^'e  been 
doing,  and  through  the  activity  of  their  association  officers  have  adopted  a  correcti\  e 
measure  in  the  shape  of  uniform-cost  methods.  Wherever  this  measure  has  hem 
adopted  the  desired  results  have  been  immediately  and  almost  automatically  attained 
No  manufacturer  will  continue  to  produce  a  line  of  goods  in  the  face  of  conclusiAe 
proof  that  he  is  exchanging  a  dollar  for  80  or  90  cents. 

The  manufacturer  of  knit  goods  tonday  faces  the  combination  of  advancing  cost^ 
on  material,  labor,  and  expense,  together  with  the  keenest  sort  of  competition  on  the 
selling  end  of  the  business.  Under  such  cir(  umstances  profitH  woula  undoubtedly 
be  sufficiently  reduced  if  all  competition  were  based  on  an  exact  knowledge  of  costs. 
In  the  absence  of  such  knowledge  it  is  not  surprising  that  conditions  are  far  from 
desirable. 

If  we  were  able  to  make  a  canvass  of  the  entire  industry  we  would  find  a  large 
number  of  manufacturers  who  would  cheerfully  admit  their  ignorance  of  this  impor- 
tant matter  and  who  would  at  the  same  time  defend  themselves  by  claiming  that  the 
clerical  cost  to  be  incurred  in  determining  manufactiuing  costa  would  be  in  itself 
BO  great  as  to  be  prohibitive.  We,  in  turn,  cheerfully  admit  that  cost  finding,  like 
any  other  good  thing,  can  be  and  is  c;arried  too  far.  But  for  every  manufacturer  who 
goes  too  far  into  the  matter  there  are  hundreds  who  do  not  go  far  enough.  This  ia 
notably  the  case  in  the  knit-goods  industry. 

This  fear  of  overelaboration  in  details  and  consequent  excess  of  clerical  cost  is  largely 
responsible  for  the  conditions  which  exist  in  the  industry  along  thiw  line.  Yet,  despite 
the  fact  that  there  are  refinements  of  cost  keeping,  which  are  j)rofitle88,  there  is  a 
happy  medium  of  cost  knowledge  which  all  who  expect  to  survive  must  in  time  acquire. 

We  accept  the  pound  and  the  yard  as  units  of  weight  and  mesisure,  and  yet  as  we 
use  them  in  business  they  give  us  results  only  within  a  reasonable  degree  of  precision. 
In  the  same  way  it  is  possible  to  devise  for  any  business  a  method  of  determining 
cost,  which,  while  free  from  hair-splitting  distinctions,  will  give  wholly  acceptable 
results  with  clerical  economy.    *    *    * 

This  question  of  costs  is  not  one  of  merely  academic  interest.  It  is,  as  a  little 
thought  will  show,  a  matter  of  real  concern,  for  if  costs  are  to  be  utilized  to  the  greatest 
extent  as  guides  to  executive  judgment,  the  cost  of  each  article  must  be  calculated 
so  accurately  as  to  reflect  its  individual  status  as  a  profit  earner. 

From  the  standpoint  of  the  individual  manufacturer  the  adoption  of  uniform  cost 
methods  merely  marks  the  primary  step  in  efficiency.  Unquestionably  uniform 
costs  mean  the  survival  of  the  fit,  or,  in  other  words,  the  survival  of  the  efficient. 
With  a  logical  basis,  however,  on  which  to  operate  and  the  knowledge  that  if  a  com- 
petitor is  underselling,  it  is  because  he  is  a  better  executive  and  has  a  more  efficient 
mill,  the  manufacturer  finds  himself  with  something  tangible  to  work  upon.  It  then 
behooves  him  to  study  his  own  costs  and  determine  just  where  it  is  lacking. ♦» 

In  this  investigation  reports  were  secured  from  many  establish- 
ments haying  different  cost-finding  systems,  and  in  compiUng  the 
statistics  it  was  necessary^  of  course,  that  the  overliead  charges  on 
all  units  shcmld  be  computed  on  a  uniform  basis,  in  order  that  the 
costs  of  units  should  be  comparable. 

The  cost  of  materials  and  the  cost  of  direct  labor  are  as  stated  by 
the  manufacturer  that  furnished  information,  and  doubtless  are  as 
correct  as  they  cotdd  be  given.  The  indirect  labor  and  factory  ex- 
pense were  computed  on  the  basis  of  the  direct  labor  to  which  they 
are  closely  related.  But  the  cost  of  administration  and  the  cost  to 
sell  were  computed  on  the  basis  of  the  net  sales,  which  is  a  definite 
sum  and  to  which  they  are  related.  This  method  is  explained  under 
^^The  dual  system/'  on  page  156  of  this  report.  The  overhead  for 
indirect  labor  and  for  factory  expense  was  computed  on  the  basis 
of  the  direct  labor,  and  the  overhead  for  administrative  and  selling 
cost  was  computed  on  the  selling  price. 

a  Textile  Manulacturers  Journal,  May  16, 1914,  pp.  57-68. 


SIMPLIFIED  COST  ACCOTTNTINO.  o 

The  object  of  conducting  business  is  to  secure  profits.  Nothing 
that  relates  to  manufactiu-ing  is  of  more  importance  than  *' costing." 
Efficiency  rules  may  be  applied  in  an  excellently  ec[uipped  factory, 
but,  unless  the  proprietor  has  an  adequate  cost-finding  system,  he  is 
liable  to  suffer  financial  loss.  If  he  does  not  know,  with  a  close 
degree  of  accuracy,  what  the  different  articles  he  manufactures  have 
cost,  and  at  what  prices  he  can  afford  to  sell  them,  he  is  not  in  a  posi- 
tion to  meet  competition  intelligently,  and  he  invites  business  dis- 
aster. Under  conditions  as  they  existed  formerly,  he  may  have  been 
satisfied  with  the  profit  earned  on  his  whole  fine  of  products,  as  shown 
by  his  profit  and  loss  statement,  but  in  these  daj^s  there  is  the  keenest 
competition  in  almost  every  fine  of  manufacturing,  and  the  survival 
of  the  fittest  is  the  inexorable  law  of  the  business  world.  Even  if  a 
manufacturer  is  satisfied  with  his  yearly  profit  which  his  balance 
sheet  shows,  he  should  know  on  which  particular  products  he  is 
making  the  most  profit,  and  on  which  he  is  making  only  a  narrow 
margin  of  profit  or  losing  money.  InteUigent  costing  would  enable 
him  to  distinguish  between  the  profits  on  different  products,  to  dis- 
continue the  manufacture  of  products  sold  at  a  loss,  to  limit  the  sales 
of  products  on  a  small  margin  of  profit,  and  to  give  more  attention 
to  the  manufacture  and  marketing  of  products  on  which  the  largest 
profits  are  reahzed. 

Cost  accounting  is  especially  important  for  manufacturers  with 
small  or  comparatively  small  capital,  in  order  that  they  may  meet 
the  severe  competition  of  those  who  manufacture  on  an  extensive 
scale.  As  a  rule,  the  large  manufacturers  have,  not  only  the  most 
improved  machinery  and  most  efficient  methods  of  production,  but 
also  very  accurate  cost-finding  systems. 

The  comparatively  small  manufacturers  have  not  been  so  slow  in 
equipping  their  factories  with  up-to-date  machinery  and  in  adopting 
efficiency  rules  as  they  have  been  in  planning  a  system  by  which  they 
could  know  the  actual  costs  of  their  different  units  of  production. 
Any  investigation  of  this  matter  which  may  be  made  will  show  that 
an  amazing  number  of  American  manufacturers  have  practically  no 
costing  system  or  only  the  crudest  sorts  of  systems. 

Most  manufacturers  know  the  cost  of  materials  and  the  direct  labor 
cost  for  each  unit  of  production,  but  do  not  intelUgently  distribute  the 
general  expense  or  "burden,"  or,  as  it  is  commonly  termed,  the  ''  over- 
head." Many  of  them  add  to  the  material  and  labor  cost  for  each 
unit  what  they  think,  iudgm^  from  past  experience,  the  charge  for 
overhead  should  be  and  fix  prices  accordingly;  but  if  they  manufac- 
ture any  variety  of  products  such  guesswork  will  surely  lead  to  a 
diminution  of  profit  or  to  financial  loss. 

In  recent  years  the  profession  of  cost  accoimting  has  developed,  but 
the  small  manufacturers,  constituting  much  the  larger  number,  have 
been  much  more  backward  than  the  large  producers  in  adopting  the 
methods  of  this  branch  of  efficiency.  They  complam  of  the  keenness 
of  competition,  yet  do  not  avail  themselves  of  a  costing  system  which 
would  show  on  which  articles  they  could  meet  competition  and  on 
which  articles  they  could  not.     Perhaps  the  principal  reason  for  this 

o  This  section  appeared  in  the  Annals  of  the  American  Academy  of  Political  and  Social  Science,  Sep- 
tember, 1915,  pp.  16&-173. 


154 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTEY. 


backwardness  on  the  part  of  the  sjudl  manufacturers  i^  fh«f   ih 
thmk  they  can  not  afford  to  pay  the  f^es  S    a?e  cha^^^ 

THE   QUANTITY   METHOD. 

Burden^a«t^period  _ 

Number  of  unitsproduced^'^"^^^*'^*  ^^  biu-den  per  urdt. 

direct  laborsf  n  nnn  ti.  i?   J      **  '"'^'^  '"atenals  cost  $50,000  and  tho 
in  nnn  ,,   -f  *'^"'°"0'  **?«  burden  amounted  to  $20,000      If   therflf..™ 

woS be S2'  "oJ"  P'"°^",T'^  "^"""g  t^*^^  P«"od,  the  burden  for  S 


MANUFACTURING   AND  SELLING. 


155 


This  method  of  costing  is  the  simplest  of  all  methods,  and  where 
only  one  kind  of  goods  is  manufactured  it  is  the  most  accurate  of  all 
systems.  A  concern  that  manufactures  only  one  kind  of  typewriter, 
for  instance,  would  not  need  a  more  perfect  system;  but  obviously 
this  method  is  very  defective  if  apphed  in  a  factory  where  goods  of 
varying  values  are  produced. 

THE   DIRECT-LABOR   METHOD. 

By  this  method  the  burden  charge  is  made  on  the  basis  of  the  cost 
of  the  direct  labor  for  the  unit, 'in  the  proportion  of  the  total  cost  of 
direct  labor  to  the  total  amount  of  burden  during  the  preceding  period. 
This  may  be  expressed  as  follows: 

Burden,  last  period      _  ^    ,  i.      i 

Direct-labor  pay  roir  ^^^  ^^*  ^^  ^^^^^  P^'  ^^^*- 

If  during  the  last  period  the  total  direct-labor  cost  amounted  to 
$30,000  and  the  burden  to  $20,000,  a  charge  of  66.67  per  cent  of  the 
direct-labor  cost  of  the  unit  should  be  made  for  burden — that  is, 
should  be  added  to  the  cost  of  materials  and  direct  labor  for  the  unit. 

Where  imits  are  produced  which  differ  in  labor  cost,  this  method  is 
much  more  accuratie  than  the  quantity  method,  but  it  is  defective 
where  raw  materials  of  different  values  are  used  in  different  imits,  for 
the  reason  that  under  it  the  more  expensive  grades  of  goods  would  not 
carry  their  proper  proportion  of  burden. 

THE   PRIME-COST   METHOD. 

By  prime  cost  is  meant  the  sum  of  the  cost  of  raw  materials  and  of 
direct  labor.  By  this  method  the  burden  charge  is  made  on  the  basis 
of  the  sum  of  the  cost  of  raw  materials  and  direct  labor  for  the  imit,  in 
the  proportion  of  the  total  cost  of  raw  materials  and  direct  labor  to  the 
total  amount  of  burden  during  the  preceding  period.  This  may  be 
expressed  as  follows : 

Burden,  last  period  _  ^    ^ ,      , 

Raw  materials  plus  diiect-labor  pay  roll=^^^  ^^^*  «^  ^^^^^^  P^^  ^^t' 

If  during  the  last  period  the  cost  of  raw  materials  amounted  to 
$50,000,  the  cost  of  direct  labor  to  $30,000,  a  total  of  $80,000,  and  the 
burden  amounted  to  $20,000,  a  charge  of  25  per  cent  ($20,000 4- 
$80,000)  of  the  prune  cost  of  the  unit  would  be  made  for  the  burden — 
that  is,  should  oe  added  to  the  prime  cost. 

This  method  provides  for  the  distribution  of  the  burden  on  the  unit 
much  more  accurately  than  the  quantity  method,  where  materials  of 
different  values  are  used  in  different  units,  or  where  more  labor  is 
employed  on  some  units  than  on  others ;  and  this  method  is  more  accu- 
rate than  the  direct-labor  method,  where  materials  of  different  values 
are  used.  In  costing  by  any  method  a  charge  should  be  made  agamst 
the  cost  of  the  unit  to  cover  the  average  loss  from  waste  and  seconds. 

Any  of  the  three  methods  which  have  been  described  are  easy  of 
application  even  by  clerks  who  have  Httle  accounting  experience. 
Another  method  is,  however,  recommended  as  more  accurate  and 
nearly  as  simple.  For  want  of  a  better  designation,  it  may  be  termed 
the  ''dual  method." 


156 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING   AND  SELLING. 


157 


THE   DUAL  METHOD. 

The  prime  cost  method  is  accurate  for  computing  the  burden  on 
umts  which  vary  m  the  cost  of  materials  and  the  cost  of  labor  only 
When  durmg  the  last  busmess  period  tlie  value  of  the  products  equaled 
the  amount  of  the  net  sales.  There  would  be  an  inaccuracy  if  the 
net  sales  amounted  to  more  or  less  than  the  production,  because  the 
burden  for  the  cost  to  sell  should  be  computed  on  the  amount  of  the 
net  sales  and  not  on  the  production. 

By  the  dual  method  the  ratio  of  burden  for  the  unit  is  computed 
on  the  prime  cost,  during  the  preceding  period,  for  indirect  labor  and 
for  factory  expense,  because  these  portions  of  the  burden  are  rc^atod 
to  the  amount  of  the  production,  but  the  seUing  expense  is  computed 
not  on  the  amount  of  production  but  on  the  amount  of  the  net  sales 
ihe  ratio  of  burden  for  administrative  expense  is  also  computed  on 
the  amount  of  net  sales  as  the  base,  because  administrative  ex])ense 
is  nerhaps  more  nearly  related  to  the  amount  of  net  sales  than  to  the 
value  of  the  production,  though  this  may  differ  in  different  industries 

If,  for  example,  the  expenses  during  the  last  period  were  $50,000 
J'J^^^^'^^^^''^^^^  $30,000  for  du-ect  labor,  $4,000  for  indirect  labor, 
i^'nnn  /  ^  ^?,^*^^  cxpenso,  $6,000  for  administrative  expense,  and 
$7,000  for  selbng  expense,  making  a  total  of  $100,000,  but  if  the  net 
sales  amounted  to  $110,000,  the  percentage  of  burden  for  the  unit 
would  be  computed  as  shown  in  the  following  illustration: 

Expenses,  last  period.  Per  cent  of  burden  for  unit. 

Rawmatenals $50,000 

Direct  labor 30^  qq^ 

T  A'    ^^ecost 80,000 

indirect  labor 4  qqq  5. 00  ($4,000-4-  $80,000) 

Adr^n^J^?fvT 3,000  3.75    $3  000-4-  $80  500 

SemZ^e^nl  ^^""^ 6,000  5.45   $6,000-4-$lJO  000 

belling  expense 7, 000  6.H6  ($7,000-4-$110,000) 

T^  ,     f^^^ 100,000 

^et  sales 110,000 

These  percentages  are  used  to  find  the  burden  for  a  unit  which  is 
intended  to  be  sold  at  $10,  for  instance,  and  the  cost  of  which  for  raw 
materials  $4.25  and  for  direct  labor  $2.55,  as  illustrated  below: 

Raw  materials ^4  25 

Direct  labor ..\\.\\.[\\V...[.    2.55 

Prime  cost g  gQ 

Indirect  labor :.;:;:;::;;;:      .34    (5percentof$6.80) 

AHSr??"""^ 255    3.75  percent  of  $6  80) 

i^m^f^^Z^''^^'''^ ^S    5.45  por  cent  of  $10)  ^ 

wiit^^  ^        636  (6.36  percent  of  $10 

S^nds ^^  (e.g.,  1  per  cent  of  $4.25) 

^^°^**^ 068  (e.g.,  1  per  cent  of  16.80) 

Total  cost 8  g9 

^^^^ .'-.**.".*.'.*.■    1.31     (13.1  per  cent  of  $10) 

Selling  price iq.  oo 

As  a  matter  of  fact  most  goods  are  manufactured  to  sell  at  certain 
prices,  which  are  determined  in  advance,  and  if  the  specification  for 
raw  material  and  for  labor  are  found  to  be  too  high  to  allow  a  fair 
protit  at  the  determined  price  cheaper  material  or  less  labor  is  used. 


The  dual  method  may  be  varied  by  basing  the  percentage  of  burden 
for  indirect  labor  and  f actorv  expense  on  the  direct  labor  cost,  instead 
of  the  prime  cost,  and  it  is  claimed  that  for  some  industries,  where  the 
materials  used  differ  but  little  in  cost  per  unit,  this  modified  method 
is  more  satisfactory. 

In  order  to  compute  the  burden  by  the  dual  method,  accounts 
should  be  kept  for  the  foregoing  mentioned  items,  and  they  may  be 
subdivided  as  appears  below: 

Raw  materials. 
Direct  labor: 

Wages  of   all  employees  in   manu- 
facturing occupations. 

Paid  to  contractors. 

Paid  to  home  workers. 
Total  direct  labor. 
Indirect  labor: 

Salaries   of   ofl&cials,    chargeable    to 
manufacturing. 

Wages  of  factory  superintendent  and 
foremen. 

Wages  of  designers. 

Wages  of  employees  in  sample  de- 
partment. 

Wages  of  other  general  help-machin- 
ist, clerks  in  factory,  (not  general 
office),  floor  boys  and  girls,  etc.  (not 
including  engineer  and  fireman). 
Total  indirect  labor. 
Factory  expense: 

Rent  of  space  used  for  manufactur- 
ing and  shipping  departments. 

Power,  heat  (or  fuel  and  wages  of 
engineer  and  fireman),  light,  and 
water. 

Repairs  on  equipment. 

Depreciation  of  equipment. 
Fire  insurance. 

Workmen's  compensation  or  em- 
ployers' liability. 

Welfare  work. 

State,  county,  township,  and  munici- 

Sgil  taxes, 
er  factory  expense. 
Total  factory  expense. 

Such  accounts  can  be  kept  very  easily  if  a  specially  ruled  book 
is  used.  Some  of  the  items  under  factory  expense  might  not  im- 
properly be  entered  under  cost  of  administration,  their  placement 
being  a  matter  of  opinion,  but  as  these  items  are  usually  small,  the 
result  in  computing  the  burden  on  a  unit  would  be  little  if  any  affected 
by  a  transfer  of  them  from  one  account  to  another. 

In  computing  the  proportion  of  burden  for  the  unit  on  the  basis  of 
production  and  net  sales  during  the  preceding  business  period,  the 
results  would  be  more  accurate  if  the  profit  and  loss  statement  were 
made  semiannually,  instead  of  annually,  and  still  more  accurate  if 
such  a  statement  *^were  made  quarterly.  In  making  computations 
by  any  method  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  cost  of  materials 
and  direct  labor,  while  usually  the  largest  elements  of  cost,  are  those 
which  are  most  hable  to  fluctuation,  and  in  calculating  the  burden 
on  the  basis  of  the  last  period  the  differences  in  the  cost  of  materials 
and  direct  labor  at  that  time  and  at  the  time  the  computation  is 
made  should  be  taken  into  consideration. 


Cost  of  administration: 

Salaries  of  officials,  not  chargeable  to 
indirect  labor  or  cost  to  sell. 

Salaries  of  general  office  force  and 
auditor. 

Rent  of  general  office. 

Office  supplies,  stationery,  postage, 
telegrams,  telephones. 

Insurance — other  kinds  than  fire. 

Expense  of  collection  and  legal  serv- 
ice. 

Bad  debts. 

Corporation  tax. 

Other  administrative  expense. 

Total  cost  of  administration. 
Cost  to  sell: 

Salaries    of   officials,    chargeable    to 
sales  department. 

Salaries,  commissions,  traveling  and 
general  expense  of  salesmen. 

Wages  of  other  employees  in  sales  de- 
partment. 

Rent  of  showroom. 

Packing  materials. 

Cartage  and  freight  outward. 

Advertising. 

Other  selling  expense. 

Total  selling  expense. 
Waste  and  seconds: 

Loss  from  waste. 

Loss  from  seconds. 
Total. 


158 


THE  HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING   AND  SELLING. 


159 


When  a  manufacturer  gets  out  new  styles  he  must  be  particular!  v 
careful  in  costmg  if  all  or  any  of  the  direct  labor  is  paid  on  the  tim,:. 
rate  basis.  In  makmg  up  samples  for  salesmen  to  take  out  on  tho 
road  he  should  make  time  studies  of  the  several  direct  labor  opcr-i 
tions,  to  ascertain  as  nearly  as  possible  the  du-ect  labor  cost  per  uni'i 
When  the  goods  to  fill  the  first  ord.^rs  received  are  manu/act urcl' 
he  should  check  up  his  first  computation  by  the  cost  to  manufactur,: 
m  quantities  and  if  there  is  a  difference  he  should  adjust  the  sellin,, 
price  per  umt  acscordingly.  •  If  it  should  happen  that  his  pri.'e  for 
goods  of  a  certain  stvle,  as  given  to  the  salesmen,  is  too  low  to  afford 
a  profit  the  eariier  he  checfe  up  his  first  calculation  of  the  cost  for 
that  style  the  less  money  he  will  lose 

While  all  of  the  methods  of  costing  which  have  bocm  described  are 
comparatively  simple  and  inexpensive,  and  while  for  most  factorios 
one  of  these  methods  would  be  foun.l  entirely  practicable  and  satis- 
factory It  IS  not  claimed  that  for  a  highly  organized  factory,  with 
many  departments  any  of  these  m.'thods  would  be  as  accurate  as 
one  which  would  be  adapted  to  the  particular  needs  of  the  plant 
and  which  might  be  devised  by  cost  accounting  experts  a/ter  a 
complete,  careful  study  of  the  factory  conditions. 

In  a  highly  organized  estabhshment  the  departmental  method  of 

E'  T"^  ^'■•^"'^  l^"?'**  be  adopted.  Certain  burden  charge 
should  be  made  against  the  whole  production  of  the  factory,  certlin 
charges  against  the  production  of  particular  departments  oAly  and 
other  charges  in  part  against  the  production  of  the  whole  fakorv 
and  in  part  against  the  production  of  particular  departments.  If  1 
cotton  mill,  for  instance,  sells  both  yam  and  cloth,  the  fa.rtorv 
expense  for  the  weave  room  or  for  the  cost  of  indu-o.^t  labor  in  that 
room  should  not  be  made  a  part  of  the  burden  on  the  product  of  the 
spinning  room.  In  a  printing  plant  tlie  product  that  i^  printed  only 
should  not  be  charged  with  tie  expense  for  the  bindery  department. 

SELLING  METHODS. 

•  ^'^""^u^^  manufacturers  of  hosiery  sold  their  entire  produ.'t  to 
out  in^tbrnnifa",  q/  the  present  time  the  greater  part  of  the  out- 
put m  the  United  States  is  still  distributed  through  that  channel 

STZbuHnn'^M"''"^  ^''  S'***"*"-^  ^'''^S  away  from  this  method 
ot  distribution^nd  each  year  more  concerns  are  selling  direct  to  the 
retail  trade.  This  is  particularly  true  in  the  West,  and  man  fac- 
turers  in  that  section  are  selUng  the  greater  part  of  their  nrodurt  to 
retailers  In  the  East  and  South  t1,is  condition  is  not'^^early  ^ 
prevalent,  and  producers  of  hosiery  still  depend  mainly  on  the  jobber 
or  commission  house  as  a  means  of  distribution  ^ 

The  cost  of  selling  to  the  retail  trade  is  very  high  as  comoared 

i^ the  haWt*o/  't"^  *.^  '^t''''  ""','.  *  "lanuffctu,^.  who  Keen 
i^o*    •       u-    of  selhng  to  jobbers  wiU  consider  a  long  time  before 

^te^  tV'.  u^^"^  "'*'*,^**'^  <"^  ^'=''*»'"t  of  tlie  greater  expense  in- 
l^I-f-  ^*i^l^-  '^T*^  y**^"^  *^  ''"'^'1  "P  '^  stai1fa,-tory  trade  with 
retailers,  and  during  these  years  the  manufacturer  must  Lpect  small 

and  S^diS  systeir'*""^  *"*  °'^^**'''  *"  ^""^""^^^  '^'^"S  orgWzation 


Further,  in  order  successfully  to  reach  the  retailers  the  manufac- 
turer should  advertise  extensively,  and  this  entails  a  heavy  expense. 
These  increased  costs  prevent  small  manufacturers  of  limited  capital 
from  attempting  to  seek  the  retail  trade,  and  the  larger  concerns, 
particularly  in  the  East,  which  have  for  years  been  selling  to  jobbers, 
hesitate  to  revolutionize  their  entire  business  by  starting  a  new  method 
of  distribution. 

BRANDED   HOSIERY. 

About  20  years  ago  a  large  Chicago  retail  store  introduced  the  idea 
of  branding  their  goods,  and  recently,  since  advertising  has  become 
so  important  a  factor  in  selling,  many  jobbers  have  adopted  trade- 
marks, which  they  advertise  not  only  to  the  trade,  but  to  the  general 
public  as  well.  One  of  the  largest  jobbing  houses  in  the  United 
States  has  its  hosiery  made  in  about  20  different  factories  and  requires 
them  to  put  its  trade-mark  on  all  these  goods.  The  buying  public 
is  supposedly  buying  a  standard  product,  but  stockings  made  in 
different  factories  diner  in  quality.  This  method  necessarily  results 
in  the  manufacturer's  identity  being  lost.  He  will  not  advertise, 
for  he  can  not  put  his  trade-mark  on  the  goods. 

The  branding  of  hosiery  has  resulted  in  a  material  change 
in  selling  methods.  Large  manufacturers  are  gradually  giving 
up  selling  to  jobbers  and  are  devoting  their  attention  to  selhng  to 
the  retail  trade  exclusively.  By  selling  to  retailers  they  can  adver- 
tise their  own  trade-marks  and  the  public  can  be  benefited  by  being 
able  to  buy  standardized  products.  The  public  will  be  benefited 
inasmuch  as  the  manufacturer's  obligations  imder  such  a  selling 
system  will  not  end  with  the  selling  oi  the  goods  to  the  jobber.  A 
brand  being  well  known  means  that  if  the  hosiery  does  not  give  satis- 
factory wear  the  manufacturer  gets  the  blame  and  not  the  retailer. 
Therefore  it  is  to  the  interest  of  the  manufacturer  who  turns  out 
branded  hosiery  to  make  his  product  conform  to  as  high  a  standard  as 
possible.  Further,  the  retailer  is  benefited,  for  if  the  customer  gets 
satisfactory  service  he  will  remember  the  brand  and  will  return  as  a 
regular  customer,  not  only  on  hosiery,  but  on  other  lines  as  well. 

In  an  address  delivered  before  the  annual  convention  of  the 
National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underwear  Manufacturers,  held 
in  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  May  4-6,  1915,  Mr.  Charles  Coolidge  Parlin, 
manager  of  the  division  of  commercial  research  of  the  Curtis  Pub- 
lishing Co.,  had  the  following  to  say  in  regard  to  branded  goods: 

In  the  department-store  investigation,  we  asked  394  merchants  their  attitude  on 
carrying  branded  merchandise.  Two- thirds  of  these  merchants  replied  favorably. 
These  figures  gain  their  significance  from  the  fact  that  it  was  generally  into  the  large 
cities  and  to  the  large  merchants  within  those  cities  that  we  went.  If  we  had  asked 
4,000  merchants  the  per  cent  of  favorable  replies  would  have  been  much  higher,  for 
snaall  merchants  in  general  are  more  favorable. 

Analyzing  the  objections,  we  found  that  54  per  cent  objected  because  the  margin 
is  narrower  in  advertised  lines,  and  35  per  cent  objected  on  the  ground  of  brand; 
that  is,  they  preferred  to  sell  their  own  private  brands,  which,  in  many  cases,  meant 
that  their  cost  of  doing  business  was  so  high  that  it  was  necessary  to  sell  noncompetitive 
goods  to  get  over  the  high  cost  of  doing  business. 

In  general,  the  key  to  the  attitude  on  advertised  brands  is  cost  of  doing  business — 
the  higher  the  cost  the  less  friendly  the  store  to  handling  advertised  goods.  Now, 
costs  vary  according  to  three  things: 

I.  The  larger  the  city  the  higher  the  cost. 


160 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTEY. 


MANUFACTURING   AND  SELLING. 


161 


II.  The  farther  from  the  eastern  market  the  higher  the  cost. 

III.  There  are  individual  variations  depending  on  the  skill  of  the  merchant  and  tliP 
grade  of  merchandise. 

Certain  influences  have  been  operating  to  make  lai^e  departm«iii  t  stores  more  friend  iv 
to  carrying  advertised  brands.  ^ 

First,  these  stores  want  to  stand  in  thtir  own  community  as  quality  stores  The 
patron  asks  the  clerk  for  an  advertised  article  and  is  sold  one  of  the  store's  brand  in  its 
place.  The  next  day  the  same  thing  happens  with  another  clc^rk,  and  the  third  d;iv 
It  happens  a^m  with  still  a  different  clerk.  The  patron  says  to  herself,  ''The  articios 
I  buy  in  this  store  have  quality,  but  I  read  in  the  magazines  that  other  articles  are 
quality  articles.  She  is  likely  to  try  them  and  between  the  two  standards  of  quail tv 
may  cease  to  be  a  patron  of  the  store;  that  is,  the  store  that  wishes  to  maintain  iia  renu- 
tation  as  a  quality  store  must  be  a  fair  declarer  of  quality. 

Second  those  stores  that  have  an  up-State  trade  find  it  necessary  to  carry  and  sc^ll 
advertised  merchandise  in  order  to  hold  the  patronage  of  those  customers  who  are 
outside  the  effective  reach  of  their  newspaper  publicity. 

Third,  and  most  important  of  all,  is  a  realization  of  the  necessity  of  volume  and 
that  volume  can  most  readily  be  obtained  by  selling  what  the  pwple  want:  that  ia  bv 
selling  manufacturers'  brands.  '  ^ 

EXPENSE   OF  SELLING  TO  RETAILERS. 

The  chief  objection  on  the  part  of  manufacturers  in  regard  to  sell- 
ing direct  to  retailers  is  the  heavy  expense  necessary  in  order  to  reach 
this  trade,  the  longer  credits  given,  (he  necessity  of  carrying  a  large 
and  assorted  stock  of  finished  goods,  and  the  liability  to  losses  due 
to  failures  of  customers.  One  reason  why  some  hosiery  manufac- 
turers have  not  been  prosperous  during  recent  years  is  that  they 
have  been  trying  to  change  from  selling  to  jobbers  to  seUing  to  retail- 
ers. Such  a  change  is  an  expensive  process.  Time  and  money 
must  be  spent  m  building  up  a  sales  force.  Tlie  trade  of  large 
retailers  or  of  many  small  retailers  must  be  secured,  and  a  very 
expensive  advertismg  campaign  must  be  indulged  in.  This  lieavy 
cost  of  establishing  a  trade  with  retailers  permits  none  but  the 
largest  manufacturers  to  enter  into  it,  so  that  at  the  present  time 
more  hosiery  is  still  sold  to  jobbers  than  to  retailers.  Following  are 
expressions  quoted  from  interviews  with  manufacturers  in  regard 
to  selling  to  retailers  and  jobbers: 

We  prefer  to  sell  to  the  jobbing  trade,  as  doing  business  with  the  retailers  requires 
a  great  assortment  and  a  variety  of  styles.  The  retailer  wante  greater  cone  essious 
and  refuses  to  pay  any  more  for  the  goods,  even  though  the  cost  of  yarn  and  the  cost 
of  labor  have  increased. 

Mills  are  selling  more  goods  direct  to  retailers,  but  jobbers  can  not  be  eliminated 
as  nulls  are  not  equipped  to  get  the  small  orders  from  small  retailers  and  carry  this  class 
of  trade  mdefimtely,  as  payments  from  this  trade  are  very  slow. 

We  make  goods  to  order  and  sell  to  jobbers.  We  are  trying  to  cultivate  the  fobbing 
trade.  We  must  sell  to  department  stores,  but  they  get  jobbers'  prices.  The  tendency 
of  the  trade  is  toward  selling  to  retailers. 

The  jobber  is  essential  to  my  business.  In  fact,  he  is  the  salvation  of  the  small  manu- 
facturer, as  he  carries  the  stock  which  the  manufacturer  can  not  afford  to  do  The 
manufacturer  with  a  small  capital  is,  therefore,  aided  by  the  jobber  who  is  orderin" 
quantities  and  sharing  the  risk  of  loss.  He  works  on  small  and  legitimate  profits. 
Ihe  retailer  is  the  one  who  is  making  the  great  amount  of  profit,  although  he  is  n(»t 
allowing  any  great  margin  to  the  actual  producer,  i.  e.,  the  manufacturer  The 
retailer  s  profits  must  necessarily  be  large,  as  his  overhead  expcmses  are  enormous. 

The  tendency  is  to  sell  direct  to  retailers.  When  we  sell  to  jobl)ers  we  do  not  make 
a  permanent  customer,  but  if  we  sell  to  a  retai  ler  he  will  probably  stick  with  us  The 
jobber  is  going  to  be  forced  out  in  all  lines  of  clothing,  because  every  good  retailer 
wants  to  buy  direct. 


We  have  only  one  commission  house  and  bind  ourselves  to  deal  with  him  exclu- 
sively. There  are  great  possibilities  lying  in  selling  direct  to  retailers.  If  we  were 
starting  a  new  business  we  would  surely  sell  direct. 

We  prefer  selling  direct  to  retailers,  and  our  trade  is  beet  in  the  Gonall  and  medium- 
sized  towns. 

We  sell  our  product  direct  to  the  trade  under  a  brand  name.  We  think  the  tendency 
is  to  smaller  orders. 

It  has  been  customary  for  hosiery  manufacturers  to  sell  their  output  through  the  job- 
ber or  commission  house,  but  of  late  years  it  has  become  more  general  for  the  manu- 
facturer to  sell  direct  to  the  retailer,  especially  if  he  has  a  trade-marked,  advertised 
article.  We  prefer  to  sell  to  retailers  exclusively  and  do  so;  we  sell  no  goods  whatever 
to  the  jobber,  the  principal  reason  being  that  we  feel  tJiat  by  having  closer  relations 
with  the  retailer  ourselves  we  can  hold  his  trade  better  and  control  our  distribution 
more  satisfactory,  especially  in  the  way  of  protecting  exclusive  agents  in  small  towns. 
The  tendency  is  markedly  toward  smaller  orders,  from  the  smallest  dealer  to  the  largest 
department  store.  This  is  due  to  two  reasons:  First,  the  new  custom  that  merchants 
are  adopting  to  carry  as  small  a  stock  as  possible,  letting  the  manufacturer  carry  the 
stock  for  the  dealer.  The  dealer  is  becoming  more  and  more  a  "hand-to-mouth" 
buyer.  The  other  reason  is  the  parcel-post  system,  which  makes  it  possible  for  the 
dealer  to  receive  very  small  quantities  of  goods  at  a  low  transportation  cost,  whereas 
previously  he  was  obliged  to  pay  high  express  rates  on  a  small  quantity  of  goods. 
As  to  competition  in  prices,  goods  to-day  have  to  be  sold  to  the  trade  at  as  low  a  price 
as  or  lower  than  at  any  time  in  the  history  of  the  business,  according  to  our  best  knowl- 
edge.   This  also  covers  the  items  of  discounts,  time,  and  dating  allowances. 

We  make  contracts,  November  to  January,  for  delivery  May  1  and  afterwards.  We 
sell  through  a  commission  house.  There  are  two  ways  of  selling;  the  regular  way 
carries  a  discount  of  6  per  cent,  which  means  that  payment  is  due  November  1,  but 
this  is  a  trade  with  a  cash  discount.  We  can  borrow  money  from  our  commission  house 
at  6  per  cent. 

From  the  above  interviews,  and  from  a  table  which  follows,  it  will 
be  seen  that  manufacturers  distribute  their  products  in  three  ways — 
to  retailers,  to  jobbers,  and  through  commission  houses.  Each 
method  has  its  advantages  and  disadvantages. 

As  has  been  noted,  the  manufacturer  who  sells  direct  to  the  retailer 
is  put  to  heavy  selling  expense,  an  expense  much  greater  than  would 
be  required  to  market  his  goods  if  he  sold  to  jobbers  or  through  com- 
mission houses.  Further,  he  has  to  manufacture  and  carry  a  much 
more  diversified  and  larger  stock  of  finished  goods.  He  also  has  to 
wait  longer  for  his  money  and  undergoes  a  greater  risk  of  loss  through 
bad  accounts.  On  the  other  hand,  the  manufacturer  who  sells  to 
retailers  receives  higher  prices  for  his  goods,  and  once  a  line  of  cus- 
tomers has  been  estabhshed  he  is  more  certain  to  hold  them  than  is 
the  case  when  he  deals  with  jobbers.  Besides  receiving  higher  prices, 
the  producer  who  sells  to  retailers  has  a  greater  opportunity  tor  ex- 
panding and  enlarging  his  business  than  one  who  ties  himself  up  with 
jobbers  or  commission  houses. 

The  advantages  in  selling  to  jobbers  or  through  commission  houses 
are  that  the  manufacturer  who  sells  in  this  manner  is  relieved  of  great 
expense  for  actual  selling  and  advertising,  is  not  so  liable  to  losses 
due  to  bad  debts,  and  has  the  advantage  of  knowing  ahead  just  about 
what  his  business  for  the  year  will  be.  Many  jobbers  and  commission 
nouses  will  advance  money  to  manufacturers,  and  this  is  a  distinct 
advantage  to  the  producer  of  limited  capital. 

9963"— 15 ^U 


162 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING   AND  SELLING. 


163 


COMPARATIVE   ADVANTAGES    OF   DIFFERENT   METHODS. 

In  his  address  delivered  before  the  1915  annual  convention  of  the 
National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Underw^ear  Manufacturers  Mr. 
Charles  Coolidge  Parlin  discussed  the  merchandising  of  hosiery  and 
underwear.  He  divided  merchandise  into  two  classes — '^convenience 
goods"  and  "shopping  lines" — described  as  follows: 

Convenience  goods  comprise  notions,  cottons  under  15  cent*  a  yard,  stockings  for 
children,  cheap  underwear,  and  in  general  the  lower  end  of  woman's  purchases.   *  *  * 

Shopping  lines  in  general  comprise  the  upper  end  of  woman's  purchases — cloaisl 
and  suits,  carpets,  millinery,  the  b(3tter  grades  of  hosiery  and  underwear,  and  all  those 
articles  which  a  woman  records  on  her  mental  shopping  tabh't  (which  never  forgete) 
and  of  which  she  defers  the  purchase  until  a  trip  to  ner  shopping  center. 

Shopping  lines  are  described  as  "sharply  concentrated  into  a  rela- 
tively smaD  nmnber  of  cities  and  into  a  very  small  number  of  stores 
within  each  city,  which  we  are  accustomed  to  call  department  stores." 
Convenience  goods  are  handled  not  only  by  the  large  st  ores,  but  are 
sold  by  small  suburban  and  rural  stores  distributed  over  a  wide  area. 
Mr.  Parlin  continues  as  follows  : 

Hosiery  and  underwear  partake  of  the  characteristics  of  both  convenience  goods  and 
shopping  lines.  The  cheaper  grades — that  in.  hosiery  of  25  cente  and  under  and  under- 
wear of  50  cents  per  garment  and  lower — are  convenience  goo<ls.  They  are  Mcattered 
through  a  multitude  of  suburban  shops  an<J  rural  stores  and  the  manufacturer  who 
would  secure  his  maximum  market  needs  the  assistance  of  th«»  jobber. 

The  upper  lines — that  is,  hosiery  of  50  cents  and  up,  underwear  exceeding  50  cents 
per  garment — partake  of  the  nature  of  shopping  lines  and  the  trade  in  women's  lines 
tends  to  concentrate  into  a  comparatively  small  number  of  cities  and  into  a  <ompara- 
tively  small  number  of  stores  in  those  cities,  itnd  the  higher  priced  the  line  the  greater 
the  degree  of  concentration.  The  manufacturer  of  higher  priced  hosiery  ami  under- 
wear, therefore,  will  be  able  with  his  own  salesmen  to  cover  enough  stores  to  reach 
the  great  bulk  of  his  market.    *    *    * 

"But,"  says  the  manufacturer  of  the  convenience  line  of  hosiery  or  underwear,  "my 
line  is  sold  partly  in  department  stores  and  partly  in  suburban  shops  and  rural  stores, 
which  can  be  reached  only  through  the  jobber.  What  is  the  relative  importance  of  the 
direct-sales  market  and  the  jobber  market?  *' 

To  answer  this  question  in  making  our  department-store  investigation  we  studied 
the  jobbing  and  retailing  conditions  m  every  one  of  the  hundred  largest  cities  and  in 
many  of  the  minor  cities.  In  these  we  estimated  the  volume  of  the  individual  depart- 
ment stores,  and  on  the  basis  of  the  cities  we  investigated  we  estimated  the  volume  of 
department-store  business  in  the  other  cities,  and  reached  a  tc>tal  of  $2,094,000,000  for 
the  total  trade  of  the  United  States  in  dry  goods  and  ladies'  rea<ly-to-wear. 

Now,  the  question  is,  What  per  cent  of  the  12,094,000,000  is  bought  direct  and 
what  per  cent  is  bought  through  jobbers? 

We  found  for  the  most  part  that  merchants  who  sold  more  than  $200,000  of  mer- 
chandise per  year  wanted  to  buy  direct.  A  man  who  is  buying  Iohs  than  $100,(HX) 
prefers  to  buy  of  the  jobber;  he  wants  to  keep  his  stock  down,  and  often  he  is  financially 
weak  and  leans  on  the  jobber.  We  estimati^l  that  there  are  1. 140  stores  that  do  more 
than  $200,000  of  business  each,  and  these  stores  together  do  43  per  cent  of  our 
$2 ,094 ,000 ,000.  The  multitude  of  textile  st(  »res  that  do  under  1 1 00 ,000  of  busi ness,  we 
estimated,  do  47  per  cent  of  that  total.  This  leaves  10  per  cent  for  the  class  l>etween. 
In  this  class,  if  a  merchant  is  a  plunger  by  nature  he  buys  large  quantities  and  goes 
direct;  if  he  is  conservative,  be  keeps  his  sto<  k  down  by  buying  from  the  jobber. 

Of  course,  large  stores  buy  some  things  from  the  jobber;  many  smaller  stores  buy 
some  things  direct.  If  we  offset  one  against  the  other  and  divide  the  10  per  cent  of 
the  middle  class  evenly,  it  gives  us  48  per  cent  for  direct  channels  an<l  52  per  cent  for 
jobbing  channels. 

But,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  per  cent  of  any  given  line  that  may  be  successfully 
handled  through  jobbing  channels,  it  is  necessary  to  analyze  the  figures  more  closely, 
for  in  the  48  per  cent  of  direct  sales  is  included  the  great  bulk  of  the  strictly  nhopping 
lines,  which  means,  of  course,  that  it  contains  proportionately  less  of  convenioncp 
goods.    Thus,  of  a  strictly  convenience  article,  sucn  as  black  and  white  thread,  I 


suppose  that  not  more  than  25  per  cent  is  sold  by  stores  included  in  our  direct-purchase 
group  and  that  fully  75  per  cent  is  sold  by  the  jobber  class  of  stores;  and  in  convenience 
goods,  as  a  whole,  at  least  70  per  cent  seems  to  belong  logically  to  the  jobbing  trade  and 
probably  not  more  than  30  per  cent  is  handled  by  those  stores  which  are  actively 
seeking  direct-purchase  connections. 

If  a  manufacturer  of  a  convenience  line  of  hosiery  and  underwear  had,  therefore,  to 
take  his  choice  between  direct  sales  and  jobber  sales,  the  jobber  sales  would  offer  the 
largest  opportunity.  But  of  the  43  per  cent  that  definitely  seeks  direct  sales  nearly 
half  is  done  by  200  stores,  each  one  of  which  does  over  a  million  dollars  of  business. 
Now,  these  stores  are  so  insistent  on  buying  direct  that  the  jobber  ordinarily  can  not 
sell  them,  and,  recognizing  this,  is  usually  willing  that  the  manufacturer  sell  them 
direct. 

Hence  as  a  merchandizing  policy  for  a  manufacturer  of  convenience  goods  it  seems 
advantageous  to  sell  direct  to  the  200  stores  that  do  over  a  million  dollars  of  business 
each  and  use  the  jobber  for  the  rest  of  his  business. 

The  conclusion  would  seem  to  be  that  the  manufacturer  producing 
low-priced  hosiery  or  convenience  goods  would  find  it  to  his  advantage 
to  market  his  product  to  jobbing  houses,  as  through  this  channel  a 
great  portion  of  the  convenience  stores  and  shops  can  be  most  easily 
reached  with  a  low-selling  cost  to  the  manufacturer.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  producer  of  high-priced  hosiery  or  the  manufacturer  of 
diversified  lines  of  hosiery  would  seem  to  be  able  to  secure  best  results 
by  selling  direct  to  the  retaU  trade. 

In  an  address  delivered  before  the  Jobbers  Association  of  Knit 
Goods  Buyers  in  New  York  January  11,  1915,  Mr.  Frank  L.  Chipman, 
of  Charles  Chipman's  Sons,  New  i  ork,  said : 

There  are  a  number  of  factors  contributing  to  the  distribution  of  hosiery  from  manu- 
facturer through  jobber  to  retailer  which  should  be  borne  in  mind. 

First.  The  enormous  growth  of  magazines  and  papers  each  carrying  its  selling 
message. 

Second.  The  great  growth  of  mail  and  mail  orders  on  the  part  of  catalogue  houses, 
department  stores,  and  manufacturer  to  retailer. 

Third.  The  feeling  on  the  part  of  retail  hosiery  buyers  that  a  mill  purchase  will 
greatly  ingratiate  him  in  the  eyes  of  his  employer,  which  too  often  is  a  fact,  with  the 
result  of  his  willingness  to  give  preference  to  that  which  he  believes  to  be  a  mill 
purchase. 

Fourth.  The  depreciation  of  quality  of  merchandise  which  always  exists  when  it  is 
bought  to  sell  on  its  appearance,  rather  than  on  intrinsic  merit  to  the  consumer. 

Fifth.  There  are  some  2,000  hosiery  mills  scattered  almost  in  every  State  of  the 
Union,  more  built  each  year,  and  a  great  many  of  these  distribute  merchandise  locally 
to  accommodate  their  retail  friends,  without  the  competition  of  the  standard  mills. 

The  department  stores  have  so  grown,  together  with  their  mail-order  departments 
and  bargain  basements,  and  with  the  ease  of  reaching  them  in  larger  cities,  of  which 
there  are  228  in  number  of  over  25,000  inhabitants,  as  to  reach  directly  one-third  of 
the  population  of  this  country.  These  stores  use  and  buy  large  lots  of  hosiery,  and  the 
majority  of  it  is  bought  direct  from  mills,  except  to  fill  in.  Their  initial  orders  in 
case  lots  and  many  duplicate  orders  are  filled  by  these  direct -selling  mills,  and  during 
the  remainder  of  the  season  these  manufacturers,  who  are  now  selling  the  retail  trade, 
have  ample  time  to  extend  their  trips  to  the  small  towns  at  very  little  increased  cost, 
thereby  making  competition  for  the  jobber  difficult,  and  the  loss  of  this  business  to 
the  jobber  and  the  mills  that  the  jobber  buys  from. 

METHODS    OF   SELLING   BY   ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Table  59  shows  the  per  cent  of  profit  and  selling  cost  based  on  net 
sales,  by  groups  and  individual  establishments ;  also  actual  discount 
given,  the  per  cent  of  total  sales  to  jobbers,  commission  houses,  and 
retailers,  and  the  per  cent  exported. 


164 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING  AND  SELLING. 


165 


Table  59.— ^Methods  of  Selling,  Percentages  of  Profits,  and  Selling  Oosts, 
Based  on  Net  Sales,  by  Establishments  and  by  Groups  of  Establishments. 


Table  59. — ^Methods  of  Selling,  Percentages  of  Profit8,  and  Selling  Costs, 
Based  on  Net  Sales,  by  Establishments  and  by  Groups  of  Establish- 
ments— Continued. 


Per  cent  of  selling  cost  and 
manufacturing      profit 
based  on  net  sales. 

Per  cent  of  sal«s  to— 

Actual 

dis- 
count, 
per 
cent. 

Establishments  and  groups. 

Total 
selling   , 
cost.     ' 

Salaries, 
com- 

nissions, 
etc. 

Manix- 
factur- 

ing 
profit. 

Jobbers. 

Com- 
mission 
houses. 

• 

lletail- 
ers. 

Export- 
ed. 

Mills  making  full-fashioned 
or  both  full-fashioned  and 
seamless  hosiery  (East  and 
West),  Group  1: 

"F<iti».Mi«!ViTnftTit.  No   1 

6.25 
6.68 
4.12 
3.62 
2.99 
6.04 
8.35 
4.35 
7.19 

4.44 
2.62 
3.11 
1.42 
1.51 
4.83 
3.95 
3.43 
3.54 

12.83 
11.17 

3.79 

2.44 
b  4. 59 
13. 32 

7.27 
16. 75 

6.42 

100.00 

2.44 

a  8. 71 
6.32 
6.42 

a  2. 74 
2.58 
6.99 
2.27 
2.71 

K<;tablishment  No  2 

T<'<;tabli«;hTnftTit  No  3 

100.00 

Establishment  No.  4 

'F,<;tablishnient  No  5 

100.00 

Kstablishment  No  6 

100.00 

"Rstablishmpnt  No  7 

100.00 

l''.<stablishnient  No  8 

100.00 

"Establishment  No  9 

1(10.00 

Averace 

5.95 

3.39 

8.92 

43.37 

56.63 

3.98 

Mills  making  seamless  cotton 
hosiery  ( Pennsy  Ivaniaand 
New  York),  Group  II: 
Establishinent  No.  10. . 

4.59 
9.37 
16.23 
1.77 
1.40 
7.08 
8.81 
2.71 
3.15 
6.32 
3.91 
3.99 
4.78 
4.52 
8.93 
15.35 

1.52 
5.15 
8.51 

7.89 
61.04 

4.16 

3.30 

4.52 
6.11 

1.08 
6  5.35 

3.10 
11.08 

9.86 
6  5.60 

2.27 
6  2.47 

1.63 

1.11 

(a) 
3.00 

(«) 
5.01 
2.14 

Establishment  No  11 

100.00 

Establishment  No  12.. 

Establishment  No  13 

90.00 

90.00 

75.00 

98.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

100.00 

10.00 
10.00 
25.00 

Establishment  No.  14 ... . 

Establishment  No.  15 . 

.48 

3.25 

.89 

.48 

4.74 

1.71 

1.65 

3.05 

1.11 

5.61 

12.14 

2.00 

3.00 

Establishment  No  16 

2.59 

Establishment  No  17 

5.08 

Establishment  No  18  . 

5.6.3 

Establishment  No  19 

2.50 

Establishment  No.  20 

7.00 

Establishment  No.  21 

4.57 

Establishment  No.  22 

3.00 

Establishment  No  23 

3.31 

Establishment  No.  24 

3.10 

Establishment  No  25 

01.84 

Average 

7.92 

4.87 

1.76 

98.45 

1.45 

0.10            3.28 

Mills  making  seamless  cotton 
hosiery  (South),  Group  III: 
Establishment  No  26 

5.35 
.94 
6.73 
3.43 
1.54 
1.45 
6.62 
4.12 
4.30 
12.69 
4.09 
.62 
2.23 
6.72 
2.42 
8.02 

1.56 

61.99 
7.H3 
2.31 

6  2. 72 

8.76 

8.45 

.69 

13  23 

6  8.  28 
9.78 

64.83 
9.24 
4.94 
19.91 
5.78 
6.30 

100.00 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

3.28 

Establishment  No.  27 . . 

2.04 

Establishment  No.  28 

2.26 

2.04 

.82 

.51 

6.42 

2.18 

2.58 

6.54 

1.97 

.31 

.45 

3.92 

.37 

4.02 

3.26 

Establishment  No  2Q 

2.46 

Establishment  No  30 

1.40 

Establishment  No.  31 

.84 

Establishment  No.  32 

2.44 

Establishment  No  33 

3.73 

Establishment  No.  34 

1.02 

Establishment  No.  35 

100.00 

3.30 

Establishment  No  36 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
50.00 

2.08 

Establishment  No  37 

1.03 

Establishment  No  38 

1.02 

Establishment  No  39 

2.21 

Establishment  No  40 

2.04 

Establishment  No.  41 

50.00 

1.94 

Averace 

5.75 

2.89 

7.60 

74.95 

25.05 

1.97 

— 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery 
of  cotton  and  silk  (Penn- 
sylvania), Group  IV: 
Establishment  No.  42 

10.45 
5.43 
9.93 
7.38 
5.48 
4.55 
3.74 
3.67 
4.01 
.        13.67 
7.43 

3.82 
1.81 
4.08 
4.50 
3.71 
2.86 
2.32 
2.21 
2.43 
7.08 
4.44 

15.12 
.25 

61.00 
5.86 
7.67 
2.34 
6.45 
2.16 
4.31 
11.19 

6  3.21 

100.00 
100.00 

1.93 

Establishment  No  43 

2.00 

Establishment  No  44 

100.00 
10.00 

1.46 

Establishment  No.  45 

90.00 
100.00 

r  •  • 

0  2.58 

Establishment  No  46 

2.50 

Establishment  No  47 

O2.00 

Establishment  No  48 

100.00 

99.00 

100.00 

4.93 

Establishment  No.  49 

1.00 

1.98 

Establishment  No  50 

2.36 

Establishment  No.  51 

98.00 

2.00 

1.27 

Establishment  No.  52 

100.00 

2.5" 



Average 

7.42 

4.16 

3.83 

96.62 

2.91 

.47 

2.28 



-tt;= 

Per  cent  of  selling  cost  and 
manufacturing      profit 
based  on  net  sales. 

Per  cent  of  sales  to— 

Actual 
dis- 

Establishments and  groups. 

Total 

selling 

cost. 

Salaries, 

com- 
missions, 
etc. 

Manu- 
factur- 
ing 
profit. 

Jobbers. 

Com- 
mission 
houses. 

Retail- 
ers. 

Export- 
ed. 

count, 

per 

cent. 

liills  making  seamless  hosiery 
of  cotton  and  silk  (West), 
Group  V: 
Establishment  No.  53 ... . 

4.02 
20.38 
10.50 

5.78 
17.63 

8.90 
12.16 
29.06 
24.24 

O13.10 

a  4. 54 

6.33 

5.10 

2.48 

4.72 

5.81 

a  2. 28 

10.11 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

3.70 

Establishment  No.  54 ... . 

9.37 
6.15 
2.93 
9.04 
4.61 
3.64 
9.40 
5.59 

.51 

Establishment  No.  55 ... . 

1.74 

Establishment  No.  56 ... . 

100.00 

2.50 

Establishment  No.  57 ... . 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

1.18 

Estaolishment  No.  58. . . . 

4.31 

Establishment  No.  59 ... . 

.21 

Establishment  No.  60. . . . 

1.91 

EstAblishTnent  No.  fii , . .  - 

1.64 

Average 

21.94 

6.14 

6.56 

3.41 

96.59 

1.75 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery 
of  wool  and  cotton  mixed 
(East,  West,  and  South), 
Group  VI: 
Establishment  No.  62 

3.60 
5.41 
5.44 
4.69 

6.86 
4.17 
2.21 
1.30 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

4.00 

Establishment  No.  63 

1.96 

4.45 

.81 

2.35 

Establishment  No.  64 

1.72 

Establishment  No.  65 

1.93 

Average 

5.05 

2.19 

2.32 

100.00 

2.00 

Mills  making  seamless  hosiery 
and  spinning  yams  (East 
and  West),  Group  VII: 

Establishment  No.  66 

Establishment  No.  67 

Establishment  No.  68 

Establishment  No.  69 

Establishment  No.  70 

Establishment  No.  71 

Establishment  No.  72 

Establishment  No.  73 

Average 

11.33 

11.02 

6.29 

4.90 

6.41 

4.59 

11.52 

11.42 

10.44 
7.71 
2.14 

a2.86 

8.20 
0  1.12 

2.64 
0  9.58 

9.59 
12.69 

4.80 

100.00 

None. 

100.00 
15.00 

5.00 

85.00 

2.03 

100.00 

None. 

3.09 
4.20 
8.64 
7.69 

100.00 

2.71 

100.00 

None. 

100.00 
100.00 

1.96 

1.68 

9.46 

6.65 

7.08 

6.60 

24.50 

68.90 

1.48 

All    mills    reporting    data 
(Groups  I  to  Vll),  average. 

JClls  making  seamlass  hosiery 
(Groups  II  to  VII),  average. 

Mills  buying  all  yams  and 
making   seamless   hosiery 
(Groups  II  to  VI),  average. . 

Mills  making  seamless  cotton 
hosiery  (Groups  II  and  III), 
average 

8.31 
9.50 

9.62 

6.54 

4.54 
4.91 

4.36 

4.06 

6.66 
6.52 

* 

5.05 
5.48 

51.04 
54.69 

70.38 

81.84 

4.08 
6.03 

44.83 
39.20 

29.52 

18.13 

0.05 
.08 

.10 

.03 

2.90 
2.18 

2.40 

2.45 

o  other  data  not  reported. 


6  Loss. 


c  Sales  to  other  manufacturers. 


a  Loss. 

The  table  shows  that  of  the  total  net  sales  of  the  73  establish- 
ments reporting  (Groups  I  to  VII)  51.04  per  cent  was  to  jobbers, 
4.08  per  cent  through  commission  houses,  44.83  per  cent  to  retailers, 
and  0.05  per  cent  was  exported. 

PROFITS    ON    SALES    TO    RETAILERS   AND   JOBBERS. 

Of  the  73  establishments,  45  reported  that  they  sold  all  or  most  of 
their  product  to  jobbers,  3  that  they  sold  all  or  most  of  their  product 
to  commission  houses,  18  that  they  sold  all  or  most  of  their  product 
to  retailers,  1  that  it  sold  half  of  its  product  to  jobbers  and  half  to 
retailers,  while  6  did  not  report  as  to  whom  their  products  were 
sold.     In  Table  60  a  comparison  is  made  of  the  profits  of  the  estab- 


n 


166 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY, 


MANUFACTURING  AND  SELLING. 


167 


I?  1 


Ikhments  that  sold  the  larger  part  of  theu- products  to  jobbers  ^r 
through  commission  houses,  or  to  retailers: 

Table  60.— Net  Sales,  Profits,  and  Average  Percentageh  op  Profits,  Basfd 
ON  Net  Sales,  of  Establishments  Having  Different  Methods  op  Selling. 


Establishments     the     larger 
part  of  whose  sales  were  to— 

Establish- 
ments. 

Net  sales. 

Manufac- 
turing 
profits. 

Average 
manufac- 
turing 
profit. 

Amoimt 
of  final 
profit. 

Average 
final  profit. 

Jobbers  and  commissionhouses 
Retailers 

48 
18 

$12,527,976 
10,953,144 

$821,786 
786,274 

Percent. 
6.66 
7.18 

$730,907 

664,473 

Percent. 

6.83 

6.07 

As  shown  by  this  table,  the  estal)lishments  that  sold  from  50  to 
100  per  cent  to  jobbers  or  through  commission  houses  had  an  averat'e 
manufacturing  profit  of  6.56  per  cent  and  an  average  final  profit  of 
5.83  per  cent  on  their  net  sales;  and  the  establishments  that  sold 
from  50  to  100  per  cent  to  retailers  had  an  average  manufacturiiicr 
profit  of  7.18  per  cent  and  an  average  final  profit  of  6.07  per  cent  on 
then*  net  sales. 

The  average  percentages  of  profit  of  establishments  that  sold 
mostly  to  retailers  was  larger  than  those  of  establishments  that  sold 
mostly  to  jobbers,  but  less  than  those  of  establislmients  that  sold 
mostly  to  commission  houses.  It  will  be  noted  that  the  percentages 
for  establishments  that  sold  mostly  to  commission  houses  are  based 
on  the  reports  of  only  three  establishments. 

Referrmg  to  Table  59,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  average  selling 
cost  of  all  establishments  reporting  (Groups  I  to  VII)  was  8.;U  per 
cent  of  the  net  sales.  It  should  be  understood  that  in  this  table 
and  m  the  following  analysis  of  the  table  the  percentages  shown 
for  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  are  included  in 
the  percentages  of  total  sellmg  cost.  The  tabh^.  shows  that  the 
salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  of  all  establishments 
reporting  averaged  4.54  per  cent. 

The  average  percentages  of  the  establishments  in  different  group 
combinations  for  selling  cost  and  manufacturing  profit,  based  on 
net  sales,  were  as  follows: 

Groups  I  to  VII,  73  establishments,  all  reporting:  Total  selling 
cost,  8.31  per  cent,  of  which  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of 
salesmen  were  4.54  per  cent;  manufacturing  profits,  6.66  per  cent. 

Groups  II  to  VII,  64  establishments  makmg  seamless  hosiery: 
Total  sellmg  cost,  9.5  per  cent,  of  which  salaries,  commissions,  and 
expense  of  salesmen  were  4.91  per  cent;  manufacturing  profits,  5.52 
per  cent. 

Groups  II  to  VI,  56  establishments  making  seamless  hosiery  and 
buying  all  of  their  yarns:  Total  selling  cost,  9.52  ])er  cent,  of  which 
salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  wt^re  4.35  per  cent; 
manufacturing  profit,  5.05  per  cent. 

Groups  II  and  III,  32  establishments  making  seamless  hosi(iry  of 
cotton  and  buying  all  of  then-  yarns:  Total  selling  cost,  6.54  por 
cent,  of  which  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen  weie 
4.06  per  cent;  manufacturing  profit,  6.48  per  cent. 

A  further  analysis  of  the  table  shows  that  Group  V,  including  mills 
in  the  West  making  seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  sdk,  had  a  selling 
expense  of  21.94  per  cent,  which  is  more  than  twice  as  large  as  that 


of  any  other  group.  All  of  the  estabhshments  in  this  group  except 
one  sold  their  entire  product  to  retailers,  which  accounts  for  the 
heavy  selling  expense. 

Group  VI,  including  miUs  in  the  East,  West,  and  South,  making 
seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed,  shows  a  total  selling  cost 
ojf  5.05  per  cent,  which  is  lower  than  that  of  any  other  group.  All  of 
the  establishments  in  this  group  sell  exclusively  to  jobbers. 

It  should  be  noted  that  although  Group  VI  had  a  lower  selling  cost 
than  any  of  the  other  groups,  its  manufacturing  profit  was  only  2.19 
per  cent  as  compared  with  a  profit  of  6.56  per  cent  shown  by  Group  V, 
which  had  a  selling  cost  more  than  four  times  as  large  as  that  of 
Group  VI.  ... 

There  was  a  great  variation  in  the  time  and  cash  discount  usually 
allowed,  as  well  as  the  discount  actually  given.  The  discount  usually 
given,  however,  in  the  greatest  number  of  cases  was  2-10-30  (i.  e., 
2  per  cent  for  payment  in  40  days)  or  2-10-60  (i.  e.,  2  per  cent  for 
payment  in  70  days).  Establishment  No.  2  shows  the  highest  actual 
discount  allowed  (8.71  per  cent),  followed  by  estabHshment  No.  20 
(7  per  cent)  and  establishment  No.  7  (6.99  per  cent).  Establishments 
Nos.  69  and  71  show  no  actual  discount  because  they  sold  net  to 
commission  houses. 

PROFITS   AS   AFFECTED  BY   NATIONAL  ADVERTISING. 

As  shown  by  table  No.  59,  the  average  manufacturing  profit  based 
on  net  sales  of  the  73  establishments  reporting  was  6.66  per  cent.  Of 
these  73  establishments,  9  advertised  nationally;  that  is  advertised 
in  magazines  and  papers  with  a  national  circulation,  other  than  trade 
journals.  The  percentages  of  manufacturing  profit  of  these  9  estab- 
lishments are  shown  in  Table  61. 

As  shown  by  Table  61,  the  two  establishments  in  Group  I,  which 
made  full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery,  and 
which  advertised  nationally,  earned  a  smaller  average  percentage  of 
manufacturing  profit,  6.77,  than  the  average,  8.92,  of  aU  estabhsh- 
ments in  that  group.  In  the  case  of  establishments  making  seamless 
hosiery  of  different  materials,  those  that  advertised  earned  a  higher 
average  percentage  of  profit  than  the  average  of  their  respective 
groups. 

Table  61. — ^Methods  op  Selling  and  Percentages  of  Profits  op  Establishments 

That  Advertise  Nationally. 


Classification. 

Groups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Method  of  selling. 

Average  per  cent  of 
manufacturing 
profit,  based  on  net 
sales  of— 

Specified 
establish- 
ments. 

Groups. 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full- 

I 

2 
2 

3 

2 

100  per  cent  to  retailers 

One,  50  per  cent  to  jobbers 
and  50  per  cent  to  retailers; 
one,  not  reported. 

Two,  100  per  cent  to  retail- 
ers; one,  98  per  cent  to  re- 
tailers. 2  per  cent  exported. 

100  per  cent  to  retailers 

6.77 
7.34 

8.24 

8.10 

8- 02 

fashioned  and  seamless. 
Seiuuless,  cotton 

nandm... 
IV  and  v.. . 
VII 

5.56 
5.23 
7  ns 

Seamless,  cotton  and  silk. . 
Seamless,   mills  spinning 

yams. ' 

168 


THE  HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


MANUFACTURING   AND   SELLING. 


169 


In  Table  62  data  regarding  these  nine  establishments  are  presented 
to  show  their  percentages  for  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of 
salesmen,  cost  of  advertising,  and  total  selUng  ex])ense,  on  the  basis 
of  their  net  sales,  and  also  corresponding  average  percentages  for  their 
respective  groups. 

As  shown  by  Table  62,  the  average  percentages  of  cost  of  adver- 
tising, cost  of  salaries,  commissions,  and  expense  of  salesmen,  and 
total  sellmg  expense  were  higher  for  the  specified  establishments 
that  advertised  nationally  than  tlie  averages  for  their  respective 
groups.  This  is  true  regarding  the  establishments  making  each 
class  of  hosiery  classified  in  Table  61 .  It  is  noticeable  that  the  averat^e 
percentage  of  manufacturing  profit  of  the  three  establishments  m 
Groups  IV  and  V  that  advertise  nationally,  8.24,  was  higher  than 
the  average  of  such  establishments  in  other  groups,  as  shown  by 
Table  61,  although  the  average  percentage  of  cost  of  advertising  and 
of  total  selling  expense  was  much  greater  in  the  (;ase  of  these  three 
establishments  in  Groups  IV  and  V  than  in  the  case  of  the  estab- 
lishments that  advertise  nationally  in  other  groups,  as  shown  by 
Table  62. 

Table  62.— Average  Percentages  op  Salaries,  Commissions,  and  Expense  of 
Salesmen,  Cost  op  Advertising,  and  Total  Selling  Expense  op  Establish- 
ments That  Advertise  Nationally,  Based  on  Net  Sales. 


Groups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

TotAl  selling  expense. 

Salaries,  commissiojis, 
and  expense  of  sales- 
men. 

Cost  of  advertising. 

Specified 
establish- 
ments. 

Groups. 

Specified 
establish- 
ments. 

Groups. 

Specified 
establish- 
ments. 

Groups. 

I 

2 
2 
3 
2 

7.67 

9.77 

22.76 

n.46 

5.95 

6.63 

14.78 

9.45 

3.71 
5.96 
6.56 
8.09 

3.39 
3.66 
5.18 
6.65 

1.72 

L79 

10.50 

1.15 

0.79 
.70 

5.55 
.75 

nandni 

IVandV 

vn 

TBADE   ABUSES. 

There  are  certain  trade  abuses  common  to  the  whole  clothing  indus- 
try which  have  their  effect  on  the  manufacture  and  sahi  of  hosiery. 
These  evils  are  cancellations,  returns  and  allowances,  requests  for 
deferred  shipments,  extra  dating,  special  discounts,  etc.  These  evils 
have  been  prevalent  for  years,  and  as  time  goes  on  are  increasing 
rather  than  diminishing.  Though  all  hosiery  manufacturers  com- 
plain of  these  practices,  they  have  never  taken  any  positive  step  to 
eliminate  them.  While  various  remedies  have  been  suggested  in 
conventions  and  associations  in  the  trade,  none  has  ever  been  put 
into  active  practice  owing  to  lack  of  cooperation. 
*  Cancellations, — Of  these  trade  abuses  perhaps  that  from  which  the 
hosiery  industry  suffers  most  is  cancellation,  by  which  the  buyer  luts 
the  option  of  taking  or  refusing  goods  which  he  has  ordered.  A  manu- 
facturer may  make  a  contract  to  dehver  a  certain  number  of  cases  of 
hosiery  on  a  certain  date,  perhaps  several  months  ahead.  He  will 
make  up  the  order  in  good  faith,  with  the  full  expectation  that  the 
contract  will  be  lived  up  to,  only  to  have  the  finished  goods  tlirown 
back  on  his  hands  through  a  cancellation.     This  practice  entails  a 


great  hardship  on  the  manufacturer,  disturbs  liis  business,  and  is  the 
cause  of  heavy  losses. 

Cancellations  have  increased,  due  to  the  fact  that  buyers  are  aware 
that  the  manufacturers  will  rarely  go  to  court  to  enforce  a  contract. 
This  has  lead  to  careless  buying,  the  buyer  kno^Vlng  that  m  the  event 
of  a  dull  market  or  other  conditions  affecting  his  sales  he  can  alwavs 
protect  himself  through  a  cancellation  and:  tln-ow  the  loss  on  the 
manufacturer.  , 

Several  manufacturers  explained  why  they  allowed  the  practice  ot 
cancellation.  Thev  admitted  that  they  were  in  a  position  to  insist 
on  the  fulfillment  "of  a  contract  and  would  probably  be  upheld  in 
court.  They  stated,  however,  that  should  they  be  forced  to  bring 
suit  in  order  to  enforce  the  contract  they  would  make  an  enemy  and 
m  all  probability  permanently  lose  the  future  business  of  that  par- 
ticular buyer,  and  also  estabhsh  for  themselves  a  bad  reputation  with 
the  trade.  Rather  than  go  to  the  expense  of  resorting  to  the  courts 
and  losing  a  customer,  they  prefer  to  accept  the  cancellation  and 
trust  to  future  business  to  make  up  their  loss.  It  was  stated  that 
rarely  does  a  certain  number  of  cases  of  hosiery  come  exactly  up  to 
specifications.  In  that  case  it  is  easy  for  the  buyer  to  claim  that  the 
goods  are  not  as  ordered.  Thus,  the  manufacturer  not  only  loses 
the  suit  but  also  the  customer. 

It  was  further  stated  that  competition  is  so  keen  that  a  competitor 
will  not  stop  to  inquire  what  a  buyer  has  done  with  some  other  manu- 
facturer, but  is  glad  to  get  the  new  account  regardless  of  the  repu- 
tation the  buyer  has  for  making  cancellations. ,        .        ,  . , 

An  official  in  a  very  efficient  and  successful  hosiery  factory  said 
in  an  interview  that  the  estabhshment  had  decided  some  time  pre- 
viously not  to  accept  a  cancellation;  that  by  exercising  care  in  keen- 
ing the  product  up  to  a  uniform  standard  there  had  been  httle 
difficulty  in  satisfying  a  line  of  steady  customers,  and  that  customers 
had  become  accustomed  to  the  noncancellation  rule,  and  the  factory 
had  lost  httle,  if  any,  trade  by  enforcing  it. 

An  editorial  in  the  Dry  Goods  Economist  for  March  13,  1915,  says: 

It  was  admitted  by  several  of  the  manufacturers  that  certain  abuses  and  evils  which 
now  exist  and  have  existed  for  years  affect  their  business  in  a  far  greater  degree  than 
the  tariff  change.  With  these  evils  Economist  readers  are  only  too  familiar.  One  of 
them  is  the  tendency  to  cancel  orders  or  break  contracts  which  have  been  made  and 
accepted  in  good  faith.  The  other  is  the  practice  of  requiring  manufacturers  to  reduce 
the  prices  at  which  the  goods  have  been  sold  in  case  of  a  decline  m  price  at  the  time 
delivery  of  the  goods  is  made.  In  each  of  these  cases  the  trouble  is  due  to  the  old 
moss-grown,  unbusinesslike  method  of  which  the  Economist  hiis  frequently  referred 
of  regarding  a  contract  or  order  as  not  binding  on  the  purchaser. 

Price  cutting.— Another  evil  is  that  of  buyers  playing  one  manufac- 
turer against  another,  and  the  consequent  cutting  of  prices  to  get 
business.  It  was  stated  that  many  producers  of  hosiery  frequently 
sold  at  a  loss  in  order  to  make  a  sale,  hoping  thus  to  secure  a  perma- 
nent customer.  This,  however,  is  not  effective.  It  might  be  true 
when  seUing  direct  to  the  retail  trade,  but  when  seUiiig  to  jobbers 
the  practice  is  ineffective,  for  the  jobber  will  buy  where  he  can  get 
the  best  prices,  and  he  rarely  is  the  constant  customer  that  the 
ret  fl.ilpr  is 

Returns  and  allowances.— This,  practice  is  another  hardship  the 
manufacturers  complain  of.  In  making  a  return  or  demanding  an 
allowance  the  buyer  claims  that  the  goods  do  not  come  up  to  speci- 


•7 


170 


THE  HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


fications  The  maaufacturers  state  (hat  they  are  perfectly  wiUing 
to  meet  these  demands  if  the  goods  are  really  inferior  or  Lm3 
However  It  wa^  said  that  the  claim  of  inferiority  was  often  a  Sri 

Other  abuses.— -Requests  for  deferred  shipments,  extra  datin?  and 

S'efe^pd^^'r""*'  .^"  "'^^f  P''^"""-^  "^"^h  ankovance  ri'loss 
Deferred  shipments  compel  tfe  manufacturer  to  hold  tlie  finished 
goods  for  some  time      This  necessarily  takes  up  yaluahle  space,  and 

m«,mtinr?,5^  ^Tt.'^'  ^''>'°S  ^^^'^  '"*«'-^«t  ^"d  other  expense.  a°e 
Zn^l  .!,  "P  °"  /M"*-  ?onSe™i'»g  «-^tra  dating  and  special  dis- 
counts, the  manufacturer  is  placed  in  much  the  same  position  that 

tewrP'"'  r  "'^frf  ^  cancellation.  Rather  than  lose  a  customer 
k^o^n.  ZK"^'**"  '^""f'J'*"  ^^'""^  -r  «<"netimes  verv  unreasonable^ 
wZ  hL^n  his  conipetitors  are  willing  to  meet  the  Hemands  in  the 
Hope  thus  to  establish  a  new  permanent  account 

In  an  article  published  in  the  New  York  Times  of  March  21    1915 
the  following  remedy  for  trade  abuses  is  suggested:  '  ' 

The  only  apparent  cure  for  this  sort  of  an  abu««  is  to  have  a  cooperative  or-rani  vatmn 
n  ffriT^r*^  under  their  direction  an  arbitration  board  madeTSer  ,.f  Sec.'d v™ 
nothwI?se  thar^J^'**^  on  manufacturing  or  of  practical  mSl  n  e^who  woild  d^ 
s^^ested  ^  '""'''  ^"P"'^'  ^^  ''«  '"  *''«  «■"?%  "f  tl'e  organization 

fhli  T**^  ^*''/*'*  *¥*"  ^y-^"^  ^*<^  ^"^n  recently  placing  smaller  orders 
than  formerly  and  ordering  more  frequently.-"  ^This  Tuutious  buWn^ 
has  caused  much  uncertamty  among  manufacturers,  particularly  in 
A|riJ-May  lOU?""'  ^^^^^'^^S^^  quoted  from  iLit  Goods'^for 

^moBtliZed^eTitlr^I ^■\'^'^-  ^°^'  •^f  ^"^"^  "«  compelled  to  de,„and 
brunt  ofTe  risk  IftW  v'„^^'*'^  ^"^  impossible  unless  the  manufacturers  bear  the 
riordei  fromlh;  bn™,^^^"  * '"  H"^^,  <l"™t',t'?s>  ttey  run  the  riek  of  not  receiving 

stoclTnlrhinds'ofTe^Snrc^^^'r.  "  '''''  '"  ''"""'*'  ''"'^  '"«^^^<"«  '^^^  t''' 

It  is  a,  general  complaint  among  manufacturers  that  tliere  is  no 

seaWs  t''rL*"'T/^'?'  '"^  '■^^.^'■'i*"  '***«^  f""-  the  ..J.ening  of  each 
seasons  trade.     Interviews  with  them  show  that  the  ■  are  very  dis- 
tn^tful  of  one  another  in  regard  to  adhering  to  any  agreement 
When  an  agreement  regarding  an  opening  date  is  .rmde,^t  T  the 

staTnTn!ftT'°''  1*^**  '*  1^^.^  ^'  ^-''^^^  ^y  «°"i«  manufacture!^ 
tbt  c  ^-  *  •*^^"'!^^^T",''^^*''"''  *^"  fi'^ed  time-  An  editorial  on 
this  subject  in  Knit  Goods  for  April,  1915,  says: 

ma^Tcl^esrev'nmvetX*",^''?  '^^^"'"  ^f'''  ^^^o'**'  '^°  "»'  ''^»"='«  '^at  in  a  ^ood 
many  cases  tney  prove  to  be  their  own  worst  enemies.    Thev  have  their  associ^i  innx 

and  meetings  and  try  to  agree,  for  instance,  on  a  lime  to  openVp  the  fliLTbuT  hev 

fnd^'^t 'tat  ''HeTiVf  l*"'."^  ""Y  *'^.:""«  '"  =t«^l  ^  mVh  onX'othe  oni 
fTct  ^„t  ali^L        l  ""'.''"'^y  a  day  when  his  competitor  not  only  knows  of  this 

fim  man  ^te  S  iTabWn  Ki\Pr»?'  ff  The  buyer  is  not  as  mu<  h  interested",,  the 
nrsi  man  as  ne  is  liable  to  be  a  little  later  on  wh.-u  he  knows  what  all  are  doine  eme- 
cially  in  a  tepid  market  like  the  present.  Then,  again,  whatX  th  'v  do'  Thf VTake 
blanket  orders  subject  to  confirmation  when  the  buyer  comes  to  New  York     He  «  ems 

^alteRXi"  ■iXtT^ni'rb'i^^'''?,?"'"^^^  ="»  "^^  a  ^ckel?uli  oHhSZ^ 
tu!.  „     ''™®'?.,.*''""'?^ef  oil  ne  has  to  do  his  work  all  over  again.     If  il  isahiirhmarket 

Ttrcondkio^"arr?ecfd'd?  '^"^"^'  l^T  ^  "*"'  '"  P^^  *«  «"'  man  aifaratl: 
inese  conditions  are  dendedly  unsatisfactory   to  evervbodv  concernpd      Whnlp- 

gewlroor''^'"  "'"'^  "'^'  '^'  "^^'^"^  '^'  '^^  ^^^^^^^  pr^e'roducS^ 


CHAPTER  V. 

PRODUCTS,  MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 

HOSIERY   PEODTTCTS. 

The  knit-goods  industry  is  one  of  the  main  subdivisions  of  cotton 
manufacturing  and  includes  all  goods  made  from  one  or  more  con- 
tinuous threads  into  a  web  by  a  series  of  interlocking  loops  or  stitches. 
Hosiery  is  that  branch  of  the  knit-goods  industry  which  includes  all 
coverings  for  the  foot  or  leg. 

KINDS   OF  HOSIERY. 

Hosiery  may  be  seamless,  full  fashioned,  or  cut  up.  Seamless 
hosiery  is  knit  without  seams  on  a  circular  machine.  Full-fashioned 
hosiery  is  knit  on  a  flat-frame  machine  and  consists  of  shaped  or 
fashioned  pieces  of  selva^ed  fabrics,  which  are  closed  by  seaming 
and  looping.  Cut-up  hosiery,  of  which  very  little  is  manufactured^ 
consists  of  a  knitted  fabric  cut  to  shape  by  shears  and  then  sewed 
together.  Full-fashioned  hosiery  has  an  advantage  in  that  it  is 
more  elastic  and  is  knit  to  conform  to  the  shape  of  the  leg  and  foot, 
thereby  insuring  a  perfectly  fitting  stocking.  FuU-fashioned  hosiery 
is  more  adaptable  to  varied  designs  and  ornamentation.  The  sole  rec- 
ommendation for  seamless  hosiery  is  the  comfort  resulting  from  the  ab- 
sence of  seams.  About  90  per  cent  of  all  the  hosiery  manufactured  in 
this  country  is  seamless.  Seamless  hosiery  is  peculiarly  American,  the 
product  of  the  American  idea  of  manufacturing,  namely,  speed, 
production,  and  cheaper  price.  Seamless  hosiery  as  a  manufactured 
product  had  its  beginning  in  America,  and  its  rapid  development  in  a 
great  measure  was  due  to  the  lack  of  the  skilled  help  needed  in  the 
manufacturing  of  full-fashioned  hosiery. 

Hosiery  may  be  of  cotton,  merino,  wool,  worsted,  silk,  artificial 
silk,  silk  mixed  with  or  plated  upon  some  other  yarn,  and  may  be  for 
men,  women,  children,  or  infants. 

HISTORY   OF  HOSIERY   STYLES. 

Thirty-five  years  ago,  when  people  wore  heavy-weight,  fuU-sleeved, 
and  ankle-length  imderwear,  all  hosiery,  even  for  men,  was  made  of 
wool  or  merino.  As  the  public's  ideas  in  regard  to  the  health  and 
sanitation  of  heavy  underwear  underwent  a  cTiange,  these  ideas  were 
reflected  upon  hosiery.  Cotton  gradually  began  to  supersede  wool. 
It  was  more  comfortable  and  cheaper.  The  only  problem  before  the 
manufacturer  was  to  make  cotton  hose  that  would  last.  As  light- 
weight underwear  became  more  and  more  the  accepted  mode,  light- 
weight hosiery,  made  of  finer  yarns,  came  into  vogue.     The  woolen 

171 


I 


172 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


m 


stocking  has  nearly  disappeared,  and  to-day  is  worn  only  by  lumber- 
men  and  sportsmen  and^m  rural  communities.  ^ 

At  the  present  tune  there  is  a  decided  and  popular  demand  for  silk 
artificial  silk,  and  silk-plated  hosiery.  From  a  luxury  a  few  yea^ 
T^.'c^f  ^t^™g,.^^  sdk  hosiery  has  become  a  comkon  practice. 
Ihe  soft  silky  feeling  that  people  enjoy  so  much,  ihe  modern  craz. 
lor  dancmg,  necessitatmg  the  wearing  of  pumps,  the  tendency  of 
men  and  women  to  wear  tight-fitting  clothing  aid  use  low  shoes  all 
year  round,  haye  given  a  startling  accreleration  to  silk-hosiery  manu- 
f acturmg.  AU  people  can  not  afford  pure  sHk  hosiery.  The  demaud 
for  some  sort  of  silk  has  led  the  manufacturei^  to  resort  to  arti- 
hcial  silk  and  silk-plated  hosiery,  and  the  manufacturers  of  cotton 
hosiery  haye  been  compelled,  m  order  to  compete  with  the  sHk-hose 
whh  a  luster^'  ^  ^^  mercerized  yams  so  as  to  produce  a  stockii^ 

Embroideiy,  lace,  insertion,  and  beading  for  ladies'  hosiery  is  at 
the  present  time  used  to  only  a  yery  moderate  degree,  the  m-eat 

DEMAND  FOR   SEAMLESS   AND  FULL-FASHIONED   HOSIERY. 

As  between  seamless  and  fuU-f ashioned  hosiery,  the  women  usu- 
aUy  prefer  the  fuU-fashioned  stocking.  Full-fashioned  sUk  hosiery 
IS  expensiye,  but  full-fashioned  cotton  hosiery  is  common,  though  its 
price  IS  as  yet  too  high  for  uniyersal  use.  Men  and  children  as  a 
rule  wear  seamless  hosiery,  as  its  wearing  qualities  are  better  than 
the  fuU  fashioned  though  the  fit  is  not  so  good  and  the  sock  on  being 
washed  loses  its  shape.  Men  and  children,  not  caring  about  so  per- 
lect  a  ht,  haye  contmued  to  wear  seamless  hosiery,  though  there  is  a 

fSJSned tr"'"'''  '™^  ^''"  '^''''  '^'^  'P'"^"^  ^^"^^^^^^  ^  ^^^ 

HOSIERY  IMPROVEMENTS. 

There  haye  been  many  recent  improvements  in  hosiery,  either  in 
the  bne  of  unprovrng  the  appearance  or  of  getting  longer  wear 
Among  them  is  a  fuQ-fashioned  seamless  stocking;  a  seamless 
stockmg  kmt  with  sprmg  needles  to  produce  a  fabri<;  as  good  as  the 
full  fashioned;  an  entn-ely  seamless  stocking,  even  the  toe  being  knit 
on  the  machme;  and  separate  feet  which  can  be  attached  to  the  leg 
of  any  stocking  when  the  original  feet  wear  out.  OriginaUy  hosiery 
for  men  was  made  to  be  worn  without  garters.  Ribbed  tops  came  in 
so  as  to  fit  the  leg  better,  but  as  a  sock  usually  loses  its  elasticity  after 
^  s^«r^*.Pf ™d,  gartere  came  into  use  for  men.  Supporters  for  women 
and  children  soon  foUo wed.  Since  mercerized  and  silk  hosiery  hay(^ 
come  mto  vogue,  the  public  has  often  eomplamed  of  the  waste  caused 
by  the  supporter  tearing  holes  in  the  stockmgs.  To  remedy  this 
one  German  manufacturer  has  brought  out  two  new  improvements 
adaptable  especiaUy  to  women's  hosiery.  Fu^t,  an  additional  garter 
welt  which  forms  a  constituent  part  of  the  stocking;  and  second, 
two  loops,  each  1  mch  wide  and  1 J  inches  long,  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  stockmg.  The  loops  are  mtegral  parts  of  the  stocking  and  wear 
does  not  extend  to  the  stocking  proper.  One  American  manufacturer 
has  mtroduced  half  hose  so  made  that  the  upper,  elastic  part  of 


PRODUCTS,  MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


173 


the  sock  holds  it  firmly  m  place  without  the  aid  of  a  garter.  Another 
American  manufacturer  attaches  a  satin  tab  with  a  buttonhole  m 
the  center  for  the  garter  button. 

HOSIERY  MACHINEBY. 
HISTORY. 

Knitting  machinery  both  for  hosiery  and  underwear  started  in  1589 
with  the  invention  in  England  of  the  stocking  frame  by  William  Lee. 
He  saw  the  possibility  of  knitting  at  one  operation  the  complete 
course,  instead  of  a  single  loop,  by  bringing  all  of  the  loops  forward 
simultaneously  and  casting  them  over  a  new  corrugated  thread. 
After  some  experimenting  he  accomplished  this,  and  so  we  receiyed 
the  hook  form,  or  barbed  bearded  needle,  which  to  this  day  is  used 
in  every  country  where  the  knitting  industry  is  established. 

Meeting  with  no  encouragement  from  the  royal  authorities,  Lee 
moved  to  Rouen,  France,  and,  though  after  his  death  his  brother  re- 
turned to  England,  the  knitting  industry  had  its  beginnmg  m  France. 
Lee's  final  machine  was  full  fashioning,  had  eight  needles  to  the  mch 
in  width,  and  produced  a  plain  web.  Instead  of  one  needle  to  hold 
the  stationary  loop  while  those  in  the  moving  row  were  being  inserted, 
as  in  hand  knitting,  there  were  as  many  needles  as  loops  in  the  breadth 
of  the  web,  alternately  forming  and  giving  off  loops.  Tlie  machine 
had  hooked  needles  and  an  arrangement  for  closing  the  hook  in  the 
needle,  so  that  one  loop  could  be  drawn  through  another. 

The  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  in  1685,  was  probably  the 
direct  cause  of  the  beginning  of  the  knitting  industry  in  Gennany,  it 
having  probably  been  established  there  by  refugees  from  France. 
It  began  in  Hesse,  and  thence  spread  to  the  Chemnitz  district,  where, 
because  of  the  surrounding  mountains  with  then-  plentiful  supply  of 
the  wood  needed  for  the  knitting  frames,  the  industry  became  firmly 
established,  and  that  district  remains  to-day  the  chief  German  center 

for  hosiery  and  knit  goods.    ^  _    ,       ^     ,      ,    •  .  j  xi.    i,     • 

In  1758  Jedidah  Strutt,  of  Derby,  England,  mvented  the  hosiery 
machine  which  made  a  plain  ribbed  fabric,  known  to-day  as  the 
Derby  rib.  His  invention  was  not  an  improvement  on  Lee's  machme, 
but  simply  an  addition.  He  left  Lee's  machine  unaltered,  but 
added  to  it  a  ribbing  mechanism.  The  rib  was  accomplished  by 
adding  a  second  series  of  needles,  placed  at  right  angles  to  and  between 
those  on  Lee's  machine.  r  i  • 

In  1764  Shaw,  Morris,  and  Betts  took  out  a  patent  for  making 
eyelet  holes  in  knitted  fabrics  by  the  use  of  needles.       ,     ^      ,  . 

In  1769  Sam  Wise  took  out  a  patent  for  changing  the  hand  frame 
to  a  power  frame  by  putting  a  revolving  shaft  m  the  lower  part  of  the 
frame  work  which  could  be  turned  by  any  motor  power. 

In  1775  the  warp  machine  was  invented,  the  credit  of  the  invention 
being  disputed,  in  the  United  States  up  to  1775  there  were  only 
150  stocking  frames,  most  of  those  being  in  Germantown,  Pa. 

In  1777  William  Betts  invented  a  power  frame,  the  needle  bar 
movmg  backward  and  forward  and  also  upward,  in  order  to  press  the 
needle  against  the  fixed  presser.  .v     i  ^    i    -4. 

In  1780,  frames  having  been  made  wider,  they  were  utilized  to  knit 
the  web  for  shirts  and  drawers. 


174 


I       i: 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


In  1786  George  Holland,  in  London,  introduced  fleecy  hosiery. 
This  was  done,  without  any  additional  mechanism,  by  variation  in  the 
manipulation  of  the  frame  at  the  lining  courses. 

In  1789  an  unknown  inventor,  by  adding  a  press-off  tackle,  pro- 
duced broad  ribs,  and  in  the  same  year  Rose,  of  Nottingham,  invcmted 
thread  carriers. 

In  1798  Decroix,  in  France,  invented  the  circular  knitting  machine. 

In  1801  Hiram  Flint  invented  the  si)ring  slur  cock,  which  saved  the 
adjustment  of  the  slur  cock  for  various  qualities  of  work. 

In  1807  Dawson  invented  the  unequal  surface  wheels  for  traversing 
purposes. 

The  years  1810  to  1815  were  very  poor  for  frame-work  knitting. 
The  early  effects  of  the  substitution  of  machinery  for  hand  labor 
generally  resulted  in  great  poverty  for  the  working  chisses.  So-called 
manufacturers  who  owned  knitting  frames  let  them  out  to  middlemen 
in  town  and  country,  and  also  supplied  them  with  the  yarn.  The 
middleman  had  to  pay  the  same  price  for  having  the  work  done  as  he 
received  from  the  manufacturer,  and  hence  ther(^  sprang  uj)  the 
system  of  rents  and  charges.  The  middleman  charged  the  knitt(^r  for 
needles,  which  the  latter  had  to  cast  in  lead  bars,  and  also  charged 
him  for  frame  rent,  for  light  and  fuel,  for  imperfect  work,  etc.  Riots 
were  common;  frame  breaking  and  looting  were  frequently  resorted  to. 

Bv  the  year  1812  England,  Ireland,  and  Scotland  had  29,582 
stocking-knittmg  frames,  France,  6,859,  and  Germany,  2,340.  In 
six  other  countries  of  Europe  and  Armenia  there  were  3,990.« 

In  1816  Marc  Brunei  invented  a  circular  knitting  machine  which 
made  a  tubular  web. 

In  the  United  States,  up  to  1831,  Philadelphia  and  Germantown, 
Pa.,  were  the  only  large  centers  for  the  manufacturmg  of  hosiery. 

In  1832  Egbert  Egberts,  at  Cohoes,  N.  Y.,  for  the  first  time  success- 
fully produced  a  knit  stocking  web  28  inches  wide. 

In  1838  Luke  Barton  invented  a  power  frame  with  a  horizontal 
moving  needle  bar,  but  the  narrowing  was  still  performed  by  hand. 
Formerly  the  whole  stocking  had  been  made  on  one  frame ;  afterwards 
it  was  made  in  parts,  the  leg  first,  usually  with  the  heel,  and  then  it 
was  taken  to  a  frame  with  smaller  dimensions  for  knitting  the  foot. 

In  1847  Matthew  Townsend,  in  England,  invented  the  self-acting 
latch  needle.  This  was  the  first  practical  alteration  of  Lee's  original 
bearded  needle.  This  needle  consisted  of  a  spoon-shaped  latch, 
attached  to  the  stem  near  the  hook  end  by  a  pin.  The  eye  of  this 
needle  was  closed  by  a  little  latch  instead  of  being  pressecf  together 
like  the  bearded  or  spring  needle.  Townsend  died  in  Amc^rica.  His 
new  form  of  needle  was  to  revolutionize  the  entire  American  knitting 
industry. 

In  1853  the  circular  latch-needle  machine  was  introduced  in  Eng- 
land. 

In  1855  Aiken,  an  American,  patented  a  needle-latcli  regulator  and 
yarn  carrier  which  was  adjustable  to  other  machines. 

In  1856  Nopper  and  Fouquet  patented,  in  Franc«%  a  large  sinker 
wheel,  with  the  presser  and  knocking-over  cam  insid<\  This  was  the 
real  start  of  French  circular  knitting  machinery. 

In  1857  Luke  Barton,  in  England,  introduced  a  self-acting,  narrow- 
ing power  frame. 


o  William  Felkin:  History  of  tlie  Machine- wrought  Uosiery  and  Lace  Manufatiture,  pp.  437-438, 


PRODUCTS,  MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


175 


In  1858  E.  E.  Kilbourne,  an  American,  patented  the  first  automatic 
machine  for  making  full-fashioned  goods. 

In  1860  William  Goddard,  of  New  York,  patented  a  machine  for  the 
manufacture  of  seamless  hosiery,  or  tubular  knitted  fabrics.  In  the 
same  year  William  McNary,  of  Brooklyn,  brought  out  a  machine  for 
producing  the  whole  leg  and  foot  of  a  seamless  stocking  by  a  contin- 
uous operation. 

In  1862  Tom  Langham,  of  Philadelphia,  patented  a  machine 
for  making  a  circular  ribbed  fabric  by  a  series  of  self-acting  needles, 
made  to  operate  a  part  on  the  inside  and  others  on  the  outside. 

In  1863  I.  W.  Lamb,  an  American,  invented  a  new  type  of  machine, 
which  consisted  of  two  horizontal  flat  beds,  but  which  soon  was 
altered  so  that  the  beds  inclined  at  right  angles  to  each  other  and  at 
about  45°  to  the  horizontal.  This  type  of  machine  is  not  to  be  con- 
fused with  the  flat  full-fashioning  machine  of  the  Cotton  type,  a 
description  of  which  follows  shortly. 

The  following  table  shows  chronologically  the  important  knitting 
inventions  from  Lee  to  Cotton: 

Table  63. — Brief  Chronological  List  of  Important  Knitting  Inventions. 

[Ernest  Tompkins:  The  Science  of  Knitting,  p.  265.] 


Invention. 


Date. 


Original  knitting  machine 

Rib  machine 

Openwork 

Knit  plush 

Power  knitting  machine 

Warp  machine 

Fleece  fabric 

Thread  carriers 

Circular  knitting  machine 

Circular  loop-wheel  machine. . 

Mova])le  bladed  burr , 

Movable  bladed  burr  with 

blades  moving  parallel  to 

needles. 
Automatic  or  latch  needle. . . 

Parallel  needle  upright  knit- 
ting machine. 

Circular  latch -needle  knit- 
ting machine. 

Large  jack-sinker  burr 

Lamb  knitting  machine 


1589 
1758 
1764 

1767 


1769 
1775 
1786 

1789 

1798 
1808 
1841 

1847 


1847 

1849 

1853 

1856 
1863 


Inventor. 


William  Lee. 


Jedidah  Strutt  and 
WilHam  Woollatt. 

Thomas  and  John 
Morris,  John  and 
William  Betts;  also 
Fernando  Shaw. 

Henry  Hardy, Thomas 
Davies,  Andrew 
Dorilla. 

Samuel  Wise 

Disputed 

George  Holland 


Residence. 


Calverton,  Eng- 
land. 
Derby,  England. 

England 


-do. 


.do. 


Rose. 


Decrotx-. 

Leroy 

Jacquin.. 
Fouquet. 


Authority. 


Matthew  Townsend. . . 

Moses  Mellor 

Thompson 


Nopper  and  Fouquet. . 
I.  W.  Lamb 


London,  Eng- 
land. 

Nottingham, 
England. 

France 

Paris 

Troyes,  France.. 

do 


Leicester,   Eng- 
land. 
do 


.do. 


Germany 

United  States. 


General. 

Abridgments     British 

patents. 
Abridgments     British 

gatents,  Quilter  and 
hamberlain. 

Abridgments     British 
patents. 

Do. 
Various. 

Quilter  and  Chamber- 
lain. 
Do. 

Pierer's  Lexicon. 
G.  Willkomm. 
Franz  Reh. 
Do. 


Quilter  and  Chamber- 
lain. 
Felkin. 

Quilter  and  Chamber- 
lain. 

G.  Willkomm. 

Quilter  and  Chamber- 
lain. 


In  1864  William  Cotton,  in  England,  patented  a  flat-frame  full- 
fashioning  power  machine,  which  has  since  been  the  standard  for  aU 
types  of  niU-f  ashioning  hosiery  machines.  It  is  known  as  the  Cotton 
type  machine.  Cotton's  machine  had  a  vertical  moving  needle  bar, 
the  work  being  drawn  off  horizontally.  It  had  bearded  needles. 
The  fabric  produced  was  as  elastic  as  that  made  by  the  other 
machines  with  double  their  output.  It  had  fashioning  points  which, 
at  the  required  intervals,  took  off  certain  of  the  selvaged  loops  and 
replaced  them  on  the  needles,  either  inward  or  outward,  according 


176 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


PRODUCTS,   MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


177 


to  whether  the  fabric  was  to  be  narrowed  or  widened.  Though  Cot- 
ton's machine  has  been  improved  upon  from  time  to  time,  he  himself 
improving  his  original  machines  so  as  to  produce  ribbed  fabrics,  it 
remains  in  use  to-day  the  same  in  principle  as  at  the  time  of  its 
invention. 

AMERICAN   DEVELOPMENT   OF   HOSIERY'   MAC^HINERY. 

^  Cotton's  machine  brings  us  to  the  dividing  point  in  the  knitting 
mdustry  of  Europe  and  America.  Europe  accepted  the  Cotton  type 
machme  and  devoted  its  entu-e  energy  to  perfectmg  if .  On  the  other 
hand,  America  accepted  the  circular  machine,  principally  of  the 
latch-needle  type,  and  all  of  the  development  of^the  knitting  ma- 
chmery  in  this  country  has  been  in  that  line. 

The  invention  of  the  latched  needlt^  opened  a  new  field  to  knitting- 
machine  inventors.  The  first  circular  machines  had  the  needles 
soldered  into  jacks.  The  latched  n(H;dle  is  not  an  improvement  as 
regards  the  quality  of  the  fabric  made;  in  fact,  it  does  not  make  a 
fabric  as  good  as  the  bearded  or  spring  needle,  but  when  a  latch 
needle  is  used  on  a  circular  machine  the  production  is  very  much 
greater.  European  manufacturers  have  looked  to  tlie  improving  of 
the  fabric,  to  the  shaping  of  the  fabric,  etc.,  with  the  result  that 
they  contmue  to  use  the  flat-frame  spring-needle  U-pe  of  machine 
Americans  have  always  used  more  hosiery  than  prot)ably  any  other 
people,  and  so  in  this  country  it  was  a  question  not  so  much  of 
shaping  the  fabric  but  of  production  and  cheaper  goods.  The  result 
has  been  that  the  American  inventors  generally  have  centered  all 
their  faculties  on  the  circular  latch-needle  machine  with  its  greater 
production  and  cheaper  cost.  All  of  their  efforts  were  to  increase 
the  speed  and  the  production.  Also  there  was  moi-e  opportunity  of 
selling  cu-ciilar  machinery,  for,  being  much  cheaper  than  the  flat- 
frame  machine,  it  enabled  men  of  very  small  means  to  go  into  hosiery 
manufacturing,  which  they  could  not  have  done  if  manufacturing 
was  to  be  done  with  a  machine  of  the  Cotton  type,  fhe  expensiveness 
of  which  prohibited  anyone  but  a  wealthy  man  from  utihzing  it 

Before  1850  hosiery  was  chiefly  the  product  of  the  knittmg  needle 
plied  by  hand.  ^ 

The' second  half  of  the  nineteenth  century  witnessed  the  emergence 
of  hosiery  manufacturing  from  the  liousehold  stage  into  a  factory 
industry.  "^ 

During  the  Civil  War  the  Government  purchased  great  quan- 
tities of  heavy  hosiery,  thus  giving  a  great  impetus  t(»  factory  manu- 
facturmg.  *^ 

In  1851  Pepper  brought  out  the  first  ribbing  machine  in  this 
country. 

In  1855  Aiken  patented  a  circular  machine  run  by  power  but  all 
the  mechanism  for  shaping  the  stocking  was  controlh^.d  by  hand. 

J  J  Vi^xT^^*  ^^  y^^^  appeared  the  inventions  of  Kilboume,  God- 
dard,  McNary,^  and  Langham,  previously  described. 

In  1879  the  ''Shaw"  knitter  appean^df,  this  being  tlie  first  machine 
which  caused  the  heel  needles  to  be  raised  and  lowered  individually. 

Up  to  about  1880  most  of  the  hosiery  worn  was  cut  hosiery  Cut 
hosiery  was  made  on  bahnorals  (round  heads)  in  long  tubes,  cut  in 
lengths,  and  feet  cut  in  them  and  sewed  on  sewing  machines. 


In  1889  Branson  &  Son,  of  Philadelphia,  brought  out  an  automatic 
seamless  machine,  circular  and  self-reciprocating,  carrying  half  the 
needles  out  of  action  before  commencing  the  heel  and  toe,  narrowing 
and  widening  in  the  heel  and  toe  by  throwing  the  needles  into  and 
out  of  action  and  automatically  inserting  an  extra  splicing  to  reinforce 
the  heel  and  toe.  The  earher  macliine  was  only  partly  automatic, 
as  prior  and  subsequent  to  the  making  of  the  heel  and  toe  the  machine 
had  to  be  stoppedf,  and  when  the  fashioning  stage  was  reached  the 
needles  had  to  be  picked  up  by  hand.  This  machine  simply  made 
the  leg  and  foot  of  the  stocking  automatically,  and  when  it  came  to 
the  reciprocal  part,  which  knit  the  heel  and  toe,  it  had  to  be  stopped 
and  started  up  by  hand.  The  stitches  in  the  gore  of  the  heel  and 
toe  were  made  by  the  operator  lifting  up  the  needles  by  hand,  one 
at  a  time.  After  the  appearance  of  the  branson  machine,  improve- 
ments in  seamless  knittmg  machines  went  forward  by  leaps  and 
bounds. 

After  the  Branson  machine  came  on  the  market  there  began  a  great 
demand  for  cotton  hosiery.  Cotton  was  cheaper  than  wool  and  the 
cost  of  knitthig  it  was  cheaper;  it  was  better  adapted  for  rapid  moving 
machinery,  and  it  was  hghter  and  could  be  sold  cheaper.  Since 
Branson's  day  the  problem  of  the  hosiery  machine  inventor  has  been 
threefold — first,  to  increase  production,  which  means  a  cheaper  com- 
modity; second,  to  do  away  with  skiQed  labor;  and  third,  to  make  a 
finer  stocking,  by  putting  into  a  comparatively  cheap,  seamless  stock- 
ing aU  of  the  fine  fabric  qualities  of  full-fashioned  hosiery. 

rrevious  to  about  1890  very  few  of  the  colors  that  were  used  were 
fast  dyes.  Fancy  striped  hosiery  was  worn  mostly.  When  aniline 
dyes  were  discovered  they  superseded  logwood  dyes. 

Since  1890  almost  every  five  years  has  seen  an  important  change 
in  seamless-hosiery  machinery.  In  1890  seamless  hosiery  was  maae 
on  a  semiautomatic  machine  of  coarse  gauges,  with  the  cylinder  and 
needles  stationary  and  the  cam  rings  and  bobbins  revolving.  These 
machines  usually  contained  from  84  to  108  needles.  As  will  be 
readily  understood,  the  more  needles  there  are  in  the  circumference  of 
cylinders  of  the  same  diameter  the  finer  will  be  the  knitted  fabric. 

By  1895  machinery  became  fully  automatic  as  regards  yarn  changes 
and  the  gauges  had  gone  up  to  160  needles,  and  attachments  had  ap- 
peared for  inserting  high  sphcing. 

By  1900  machines  were  made  in  still  finer  gauges  and  had  more 
yarn  changes. 

By  1905  still  finer  gauges  were  in  use.  Up  to  this  time  the  general 
rule  was  a  two  yarn  change. 

About  1907  began  the  evolution  of  the  plated  stocking.  Yam 
changes  had  increased  to  four  and  five.  This  led  to  the  revolving 
cyUnder,  with  its  five  and  six  yam  changes,  the  bobbins  and  cams 
remaining  stationary,  the  cylinder  and  needles  revolving,  which  re- 
sulted in  a  finer  appearing,  more  durable,  and  comparatively  cheaper 
stockiug.  A  manufacturer  was  no  longer  compelled  to  use  the  same 
yam,  either  cheap  or  good,  throughout  his  entire  stocking,  but  could 
insert  strong,  heavy  yarn  in  the  heel  and  toe,  could  put  a  fine  yam 
in  the  leg  or  ribbed  part,  and  still  a  different  yam  in  the  sole.  This 
resulted  m  the  split  foot.  The  split  foot  originally  was  a  white  bot- 
tom to  take  out  the  sweat  dye,  but  machine  manufacturers  saw  the 

9963°— 15 ^12 


178 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


opportunity  for  economy  and  improvement;  for  example,  making  a 
stocking  with  a  silk  top  and  mercerized  sole,  etc.  Split  foot  to-day 
means  a  foot  made  of  a  different  material  in  the  upper  and  insti^p  por- 
tion from  that  used  in  the  sole  portion,  and  is  usually  made  on  a 
special  knitting  machine.  Though  the  revolving  cyhnder  was  per- 
fected about  1907,  it  was  not  generally  in  use  untu  about  1910. 

SEAMLESS    KNITTING   MACHINE. 

The  recognized  standard  seamless  knitting  machine  of  to-day  is 
latch  needle  and  circular  and  is  of  the  revolving  cyUnd<ir  type,  with 
at  least  four  yam  changes.  When  the  cylinder  revolves,  each  needle 
catches  the  yarn  as  it  passes  the  feeding  point.  The  machine  has  a 
device  for  sectional  slackening  of  the  fabric  prior  to  heavy  yarn 
changes.  It  makes  an  antirunback  course  to  prevent  raveling  from 
garter  tears.  It  plates  silk  upon  cotton.  There  is  also  a  device  to 
lengthen  the  stitcJi  in  the  lower  half  of  the  foot,  to  make  up  for  the 
extra  weight  of  the  yam  in  the  splicing,  so  as  not  to  get  a  boardlike 
stiff  finish.  The  shaping  principle  of  the  machine,  though  this  does 
not  mean  shaping  m  the  full-fashioning  sense,  is  as  follows:  In 
knitting  the  leg,  which  is  to  be  wide,  the  tension  is  loosened,  the 
cylinder  is  raised,  and  the  distance  between  the  cam  and  the  top  of 
the  eye  is  increased,  resulting  in  a  larger  drawn  stitch  and  a  wider  or 
looser  fabric.  When  the  amtle  is  reached  and  a  narrower  fabric  is 
desired,  the  tension  is  tightened,  the  cyhnder  is  lowered,  the  distance 
from  the  cam  to  the  top  of  the  cylinder  is  shortened,  and  a  shorter 
stitch  is  drawn,  resulting  in  a  tightened  fabric. 

Modem  machines  are  made  up  to  240  needles,  with  a  usual  cyhnder 
diameter  of  from  3i  to  SJ  inches.  The  machine  ia  common  use  is 
220  needles,  and  some  manufacturers  have  machines  with  as  many 
as  260  needles  to  a  machine  of  3 J  mches  diameter.  The  machines  are 
of  very  highspeed,  with  from  230  to  270  complete  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, and,  by  changing  certain  adjustments,  can  make  both  men's  and 
women's  hosiery.  This,  however,  is  not  usually  done,  one  machine 
being  used  to  knit  men's  hose  and  another  marJdne  for  women's 
stockings.  The  machine  automatically  cuts  off  the  yarn  when  the 
stocking  is  finished,  and  drops  it  through  a  long  cyliudrical-sha])ed  tin 
box,  so  that  it  wiU  not  be  soiled  by  the  oil  and  grease  of  the  machine. 
The  machine  can  also  be  used  for  making  plated  goods.  Machines 
are  made  in  aU  diameters  from  2 J  inches  to  4  niches,  the  popular 
diameter  for  both  men's  socks  and  women's  stockings  being  3 J  inches. 
The  machines  for  the  finest  quality  of  seamless  hosit^ry  are  made  up  to 
21 J  needles  to  the  inch,  and  machines  for  making  coarse  seamless 
hosiery  as  few  as  5  needles  to  the  inch. 

FULL-FASHIONING   KNITTING   MACHINE. 

The  pioneer  full-fashioning  mills  in  this  country  started  with  27  and 
30  gauge  machines.  Later  tney  advanced  to  a  33-gauge  machine  (22 
needles  to  1  inch),  which  is  principally  used  to-day.  The  fuU-fashion- 
ing  knitting  machine  to-day  is  mad(^  in  all  gauges  from  27  to  48  (18  to 
32  needles  to  1  inch).  The  best  grades  of  silk  hosiery  are  made  on  a 
42-gauge  (28  needles  to  1  inch)  machine.  It  is  a  multiple-head 
sprmg-needle  machine  generally  of  18  or  20  sections,  each  section 
Imitting  one  stocking.    The  leg  is  knit  on  a  legging  machine,  usually 


PRODUCTS,   MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


179 


of  18  sections  and  14  inches  wide,  and  the  foot  on  a  footing  machine, 
usually  of  20  sections  and  11  inches  wide.  The  first  fuU-fashioning 
machine  made  in  America  was  introduced  in  1898.  The  American 
fidl-fashioning  machine  is  built  on  the  Cotton-type  principle,  and 
originally  was  a  redesigned  form  of  the  foreign  machine,  (jonstant 
experimenting,  however,  has  resulted  in  there  now  bein^  on  the 
market  a  distinctive  American  machine,  which  is  much  simpler  in 
construction  than  the  foreign  make.  It  has  a  greater  production  than 
the  foreign  machine,  makes  just  as  good  a  fabric  and  better  selvage, 
and  has  less  narrowing  trouble,  the  foreign  machine  being  affected 
by  either  too  warm  or  too  cold  weather.  The  machine  wiU  knit  from 
large  out  sizes  to  infant  socks. 

FLAT   SEAMLESS    KNITTING   MACHINE. 

There  is  another  type  of  seamless  knitting  machine  which  knits  a 
circidar  web  on  a  flat  machine.  The  machine  has  two  parallel  sets  of 
needles,  about  7  needles  to  the  inch,  and  is  used  principally  for  heavy 
woolen  hosiery.  This  machine  is  not  fully  automatic  as  to  yam 
changes,  and  though  it  is  speedier  than  a  machine  of  the  Cotton  type 
when  actually  knitting  it  requires  more  time  to  make  the  fashionmg. 
This  machine  is  seldom  used  in  hosiery  mills,  its  principal  use  being 
in  State  institutions,  asylums,  orphanages,  etc. 

RIBBING   MACHINE. 

The  ribbing  machine  for  seamless  hosiery  has  latch  needles  and  is 
circular,  and  of  all  diameters  from  If  to  5  inches.  It  makes  any  kind 
of  a  rib,  one  and  one,  two  and  two,  one  and  three,  etc.,  and  usually 
has  but  one  feed,  because  if  the  rib  is  defective  it  can  be  raveled  back 
and  the  yarn  used  over  again.  The  machine  automatically  cuts  off 
the  rib.  There  are  some  machines  with  two  feeds,  which  change 
from  a  plain  ribbed  to  a  tuck  stitch,  but  a  one-feed  machine  is  pre- 
ferred where  a  continuous  string  of  ribbed  tops  is  desired.  The 
ribbmg  machine  is  used  for  knittmg  the  ribbed  tops  for  men's  half 
hose  and  the  complete  legs  for  boys'  and  misses'  stockhigs.  The 
ribbing  machine  for  men's  naif  hose  has  the  same  number  of  needles 
as  the  machine  which  knits  the  remainder  of  the  stocking.  The 
machme  which  knits  the  ribbed  legs  for  children's  hose  usually  has  9 
or  10  needles  to  the  inch. 

RECENT   IMPROVEMENTS   IN   SEAMLESS   MACHINERY. 

A  remarkable  recent  invention,  which  is  a  radical  departure  from 
the  principle  that  seamless  macnines  must  be  of  the  latch-needle 
type,  is  the  new  spring-needle,  circular  machine  for  Imitting  seamless 
hosiery.  This  machine  is  intended  to  produce  a  fabric  similar  to 
full-fashioned  hosiery,  at  the  same  time  maintaining  the  production 
of  the  seamless  circular  machine  of  the  latch-needle  type.  The 
machine  is  full  automatic,  has  six  yarn  changes,  and  is  made  in  all 
diameters  and  in  all  gauges  up  to  about  288  needles.  It  is  practically 
the  same  as  the  latch-needle  machine  except  that  it  has  a  presser  to 
close  the  beards  of  the  spring  needle.  The  manufacturer  of  this 
machine  claims  that  it  will  produce  at  least  the  same  quantity  of 
hosiery  as  the  latch  needle,  if  not  more.  Some  of  the  advantages 
that  he  claims  for  this  machine  are  as  follows: 


180 


THE   HOSIERS     INDUSTRY. 


This  spring  needle,  unlike  the  latch  needle,  will  not  tear  the  yarn 
and  give  the  finished  stocking  a  fuzzy  appearance,  as  often  occurs  in 
seamless  latch-needle  hosiery.  This  machine  knits  a  more  elastic 
stocking.  It  knits  tighter  at  the  ankle,  because  it  takes  less  yarn  to 
form  the  loop.  Where  the  transferring  of  a  ribbod  top  is  required, 
this  machine  stops  with  all  the  needles  level,  so  tliat  time  of  trans- 
ferring is  saved,  and  only  one  turn  by  hand  is  rec(uired  to  start  the 
machine,  whereas  the  latch-needle  machine  requires  a  turn  to  bring 
the  needles  level,  and  after  transferring  requires  the  placing  of  the 
thread  in  a  given  needle,  and  then  two  turns  by  hand  before  the 
machine  becomes  automatic.  In  this  machine  the  thread  is  hookc^dl 
under  a  clamp,  and  it  it  claimed  that  the  machine  will  always  pick 
up  the  thread  after  transferring,  whereas  the  latch-needle  machine 
does  not,  resulting  often  in  a  small  hole  where  the  ribbed  top  joins 
the  remainder  of  the  stocking. 

With  an  eye  ever  to  increase  production,  to  do  away  with  the  use 
of  skilled  labor,  and  to  produce  a  better  fabric,  American  manufac- 
turers have  in  the  last  few  years  produced  a  great  variety  of  seamless- 
hosiery  knitting  machines. 

The  problem  in  manufacturing  ladies^  stockings  is  to  have  a  wide 
leg  and  a  narrow  ankle  and  foot.  The  difficulty  with  the  seamless 
machine  is  that  when  the  leg  of  a  stocking  knit  on  it  is  of  the  proper 
width,  the  ankle  and  foot  are  too  wide,  and  when  the  ankle  and  foot 
are  right  the  leg  is  too  narrow.  This  difficulty  has  been  remedied  by 
an  American  manufacturer  who  has  patented  a  machine  which 
perfectly  fashions  ladies'  seamless  stockings.  The  machine  is  neither 
flat  nor  circular,  though  it  resembles  more  strongly  ihe  flat-type 
machine.  The  ordy  trouble  with  it  is  that  it  is  a  slow  producer,  and 
is  at  present  too  expensive  for  general  use. 

Another  American  machine  manufacturer  has  a  device  for  auto- 
matically knitting  on  a  seamless  machine  an  integral  welt  for  ladies' 
hosiery. 

Still  another  American  manufacturer  has  a  machine  which  knits 
the  complete  seamless  stocking  for  men  and  women,  without  the 
necessity  of  transferring  the  ribbed  portion,  also  doing  away  with  the 
necessity  of  looping  the  toe.  The  machine  is  of  the  flat  type  and  the 
yarn  is  drawn  along  much  as  it  is  on  a  fuU-fashioning  machine.  The 
machine  is  used  for  coarse  work  only,  having  from  84  to  108  needles. 
One  boy  can  attend  to  24  machines,  but  the  initial  <?ost  of  the  machine 
is  quite  large. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  recent  iaventions  is  a  machine  to 
knit  a  complete  stocking  of  the  better  kind  for  men  from  the  top  to 
the  toe  without  the  necessity  of  transferring  the  ribbed  portion.  The 
rib  is  not  quite  as  elastic  as  the  rib  made  on  the  special  riboing  machine, 
but  this  machine,  which  is  adapted  to  all  gauges,  makes  a  very  hand- 
some hose  and  reduces  materially  the  cost  of  laiittuig  the  ribbed  top 
part. 

The  old-style  ribbed  top  was  transferred  on  a  CA^linder  which  had 
to  be  removed  from  the  machine.  This  has  been  <lone  away  with  by 
the  introduction  of  what  is  known  as  a  quiU  ring,  wliich  has  the  same 
number  of  steel  quiQs  as  there  are  needles  in  the  circumference  of  the 
machine.  The  rib  is  transferred  to  t  he  quill  ring,  which  is  then  pressed 
down  on  the  cylinder  needles,  after  which  the  quill  ring  is  removed 
and  the  machine  is  ready  to  knit  the  remainder  of  the  stocking. 


PRODUCTS,  MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


LOOPER. 


181 


The  first  looping  machine  was  made  by  Nelson  &  Co.,  of  Notting- 
ham, England,  in  1868.  Shortly  afterwards  one  of  these  machines 
was  imported  by  Campbell  &  Clute,  of  Cohoes,  N.  Y.,  and  was  used 
for  underwear.  In  1878  Beat  tie  made  the  first  looper  successfully 
used  for  hosiery,  which  was  tried  out  at  the  Ipswich  Mills,  Ipswich, 
Mass. 

Up  to  December  5,  1911,  there  was  no  American  two- thread  looper. 
The  two-thread  looper  came  into  demand  because  it  made  a  more 
elastic  and  stronger  stitch,  which  the  boarders  could  not  break  as 
easily  as  they  did  the  stitch  made  by  the  single-thread  machine. 
The  wearer  also  could  not  break  it  as  easily  as  he  did  the  stitch  made 
by  the  single-thread  machine. 

The  Germans  had  the  first  two-thread  looper,  which  they  intro- 
duced about  5  years  before  the  first  American  machine  of  the  same 
kind  appeared  on  the  market.  The  German  machine  was  also 
equipped  with  a  trimming  attachment. 

The  recent  American  looper  is  simple  in  construction,  there  being 
no  cams  or  springs,  and  the  old-style  single-thread  stitch  machine 
is  easily  converted  into  a  two-thread  machine  by  adding  the  new 
attachment.  The  looper  is  in  the  form  of  a  circular  plate,  about  18 
inches  in  diameter,  and  with  any  number  of  needles  or  points  to  the 
inch,  as  desired,  though  usually  there  are  from  14  to  22  points  to 
1  iach. 

BOARDING    MACHINE. 

One  of  the  most  important  inventions  as  regards  the  doing  away 
with  skilled  labor  is  the  new  boarding  machine.  It  has  aluminum 
feet,  in  upright  positions,  which  travel  continuously  around  the 
machine.  As  each  foot  passes  the  boarder,  he  stretches  on  a  stocking, 
which  then  passes  through  a  steam  chamber.  After  coming  out  the 
aluminum  foot  folds  over,  and  four  small  cylinderlike  fingers  take 
hold  of  the  stocking  at  the  toe  and  heel  and  strip  it;  that  is,  take  it 
off  the  board  and  place  it  on  an  extension  of  the  machine.  The 
stockings  are  piled  up  in  half  dozens  or  dozens,  one  on  top  of  another, 
and  when  the  required  number  are  folded  the  platform  moves  them 
away  to  make  room  for  a  new  pile. 

The  advantages  claimed  for  this  machine  over  the  hand  boarding 
are  many.  It  does  away  with  inaccurate  sizing  caused  by  the  wooden 
boards  shrinking  from  their  proper  size.  It  does  away  with  imperfect 
stripping.  Stripping  is  the  difficult  part  of  boarding,  requirmg  much 
skill,  for  the  heat  burns  the  hands  of  the  boarder.  The  machine 
strips  the  stockings  one  at  a  time,  which  is  necessary  for  a  good 
appearing  hose.  The  hand  boarder,  however,  working  usually  by 
the  piece,  pulls  off  three  or  four  at  a  time,  resulting  in  a  poor  appearing 
stocking.  The  machine  also  boards  a  considerably  larger  amount 
of  goods.  In  one  factory  where  this  machine  has  been  installed  6 
men  with  2  machines  are  doing  the  work  that  20  men  formerly  did 
without  this  machine.  The  machine  also  saves  the  time  required  iu 
counting  the  hosiery.  The  great  advantage  of  this  machine,  however, 
is  that  it  requires  no  skilled  help  whatever,  whereas  hand  boarding 
does  require  much  skill. 


182 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


COST  OF  MACHINERY. 


The  following  table  shows  the  approximate  cost  in  the  United  States 
of  the  principal  machines  employed  in  manufacturing  hosiery: 

Table  64. — Description  and  Cost  of  Principal  Machinery  Employed  in  Manu- 
facturing Hosiery. 


Kinds  of  machinery. 


Knitting,  seamless. . . 


Knitting,  full  fash- 
ioned. 

Seamless  ribbed  tops. 


Looper . 


Description. 


Full  automatic  5-yam 
change. 


Full  automatic;  integral 
welt  or  selvaged  top;  no 
transfer  of  ribs  for  half 
hose;  automatically  cuts 
off  stocking. 


Split  foot   ladies'  or  half 

hose  with  high  splice. 
Domestic 


Imported  (present  tariff). 
Half  hose 


Ribbed  legs 

Domestic  (2  thread  or  sin- 
gle). 


Number  of 
needles. 


Up  10  200. 

201  to  220. 
221  to  240. 
Up  to  200. 


201  to  220 

221  to  240 

Any  number. 


Any  number 
of  points  per 
inch. 


Cylinder 
diameter. 


Inches. 
3J  or  3i 

3J  or  3i 
3i  or  Si 
3i  or  3i 


3i  or  3i 
3i  or  3J 


3ito6 
3ito6 


Price. 


$200 

210 
220 
240 


250 
260 
255 

2,500 

3,300 
110-110 

115 
55-65 


TTsual  selling  terms. 


a/ 10,  net  30  days. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


Do. 
Do. 


2/10. 


2  per  cent  cash,  net 
60  days. 
Do. 


LOSSES  FROM  ANTIQUATED  MACHINEBY. 

As  hosiery  machinery,  especially  that  for  making  seamless  hosiery, 
has  been  very  greatly  improved  by  numerous  inventions  in  recent 
years,  it  is  easy  to  understand  why  many  manufacturers  at  thi^  pres- 
ent time  complain  of  the  poor  condition  of  the  industry  and  of  the 
too  keen  competition.  It  appears  that  many  of  those  whose  business 
has  fallen  off  are  using  machines  wliich  are  antiquated  as  compared 
with  the  highly  developed  machines  of  to-day.  These  mauufac- 
turers  were  slow  to  take  advantage  of  the  improvements  in  maciiinery 
or,  as  happened  in  most  cases,  they  did  not  think  that  the  investment 
in  this  new  machinery  was  warranted.  They  have  been  and  are 
using  machines  of  less  production,  fewer  labor-saving  devices,  and, 
worst  of  all,  machines  of  much  fewer  yarn  changes  than  the  pro- 
gressive manufacturers  are  using.  It  requires  no  great  ability  to 
reahze  that  a  manufacturer  employing  the  old  tyj)e  of  machuie  can 
not  hope  to  compete  with  the  manufacturer  using  up-to-date 
machinery. 

This  is  illustrated  by  taking  the  case  of  a  manufacturer  who  uses 
a  two-yarn  change  machine  and  one  who  employs  a  five  or  six  yarn 
change  machine.  The  manufacturc^r  who  uses  the  former  machine 
can  use  only  two  different  yarns  in  the  production  of  a  particular 
stocking.  The  manufacturer  using  the  latter  machine  to  produce 
hosiery  of  the  same  price  can  employ  five  or  six  different  yams  in  the 
production  of  the  stocking.  He  can  put  in  cheap,  heavy  yarn  where 
the  wear  is  greatest,  can  use  fine  yarns  where  the  appearance  of  the 
stocking  requires  it,  and  in  various  ways  he  can  manipulate  iive  or 
six  different  yarns  so  as  to  produce  the  best  appearing  and  at  the  same 
time  strongest  stocking.  The  manufacturer  who  uses  two-change 
yarn  machines  to  make  a  stocking  as  fine  as  this  in  appearance  must 


PRODUCTS,   MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


183 


use  practically  all  fine  yarns,  and  consequently  he  can  not  afford  to 
sell  it  at  the  price  that  the  former  does,  as  his  yam  cost  is  much 
higher.  Should  he  use  somewhat  cheaper  yams  so  as  to  be  enabled 
to  sell  at  that  price,  his  stocking  is  poorer  in  appearance.  If  he  tries 
to  make  a  strong  stocking,  he  must  use  practically  all  heavy  yams, 
which  make  a  coarse,  ugly  stocking,  for  which  at  the  present  time 
there  is  very  Httle  demand. 

This  largely  accounts  for  the  too  keen  competition  of  which  much 
is  heard.  The  manufacturer  who  uses  the  old-type  machine,  unable 
to  sell  his  coarse,  heavy  hosiery  in  competition  with  hosiery  made  on 
an  up-to-date  machine,  has  to  cut  his  price,  and  this  forces  other 
manufacturers  to  cut  their  prices.  To  manufacture  profitably  manu- 
facturers must  keep  pace  with  the  industry's  macninery.  A  com- 
plaint frequently  heard  from  manufacturers  of  seamless  hosiery  is 
that  aU  of  their  profits  go  into  new  machinery.  Many  have  suddenly 
realized  that  if  they  are  to  remain  in  the  business  they  must  equip 
their  plants  with  up-to-date  machinery,  which  should  have  been 
installed  gradually  and  the  payment  for  which  should  have  been  met 
out  of  a  depreciation  reserve.  Working  with  old  maciiinery  led  to 
the  erroneous  practice  of  charging  no  depreciation,  or  at  most  a  very 
small  depreciation,  so  that  wnen  new  machinery  was  purchased  it 
had  to  be  paid  for  out  of  the  surplus  or  capital  of  the  business  instead 
of  being  taken  care  of  by  a  depreciation  reserve. 

As  shown  by  Table  19,  on  page  50,  the  total  amount  of  capital 
employed  in  the  business  of  the  73  estabhshments  that  reported  in 
this  investigation  was  $15,548,885,  or  an  average  of  $212,998  per 
establishment.  The  inventory  of  machinery  and  fixtures  belongmg 
to  these  73  estabhshments  amounted  to  $5,519,368,  or  an  average  of 
$75,608,  which  is  35.50  per  cent  of  the  average  capital  employed  in 
the  business. 

Table  65  shows  by  groups  the  inventoried  value  of  the  machinery 
and  fixtures  used  by  the  73  estabhshments  and  the  value  of  the 
machinery  and  fixtures  bought  by  them  during  their  last  business  year. 

Table  65. — Number  of  Establishments  Buying  New  Machinery  and  Fix- 
tures, Average  Inventory,  and  Average  Amount  and  Per  Cent  of  Ma- 
chinery AND  Fixtures  Purchased  During  the  Year,  by  Groups  of 
Establishments. 


Groui)S, 

Establishments. 

Average 
inventory 

of  ma- 
chinery and 
fixtures  at 
end  of  year. 

Machinery  and  fixtures 
purchased  during  year. 

Mills  making- 

In  group. 

Buying 
machinery 
and  fixtvu-es 

during 
year. 

Average 
amount. 

Per  cent  of 
inventory. 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fash- 
ioned and  seamless  hosiery 
(East  and  West). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Penn- 
sylvania  and  New  York). 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 
silk  (Peimsjrlvania). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 
silk  (West). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and 
cotton  mixed  (East,  West,  and 
South). 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning 
yams  (East  and  West). 

I 

II 

Ill 

IV 

V 

VI 

VII 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 

4 

8 

3 

5 

6 
3 

6 

1 

6 

$256, 215 

40,372 

68,081 
44,155 

61,111 

71, 135 

60,993 

15,690 

1,365 

1,874 
3,226 

6,519 

38 

4,082 

2.29 

3.38 

3,23 
7.31 

12.75 

0.05 

8.01 

All  CTOUDS 

73 

30 

75,608 

3,173 

4.20 

M 


184 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


PRODUCTS,  MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


185 


Of  the  73  establishments,  only  30  reported  that  they  had  bought 
new  machinery  and  fixtures  during  their  last  business  year.  These 
30  establishments  bought  new  machinery  and  fixtures  during  the  year 
to  the  amount  of  $231,620.23,  an  average  for  the  73  establishments 
of  $3,172.88.  This  average  of  new  machmery  bought  during  the  year 
is  4.20  per  cent  of  $75,607.78,  the  average  of  the  inventory  of  ma- 
chinery and  fixtures  at  the  end  of  the  year,  as  shown  by  the  table. 

As  will  be  seen  in  a  section  of  this  report  headed  ^'Capital,  profit, 
and  turnover,"  depreciation  on  the  machinery  and  fixtures  was 
figured  at  5  per  cent  for  mills  producing  full-fashioned  hosiery  and  10 
per  cent  for  mills  producing  seamless  hosiery. 

The  use  of  antiquated  machinery  and  the  failure  to  keep  machinery 
in  a  proper  condition  are  causes  of  waste  of  material  and  of  the  pro- 
duction of  seconds,  which  lead  to  manufacturing  losses.  The  follow- 
ing is  quoted  from  an  editorial  on  how  profits  arc^  affected  by  poor 
machinery  or  wasteful  methods,  published  in  Knit  Goods  for  April- 
May,  1914: 

One  of  the  most  serious  problems  that  conf routs  the  knitter  is,  a<:cording  to  the  Wx)l 
and  Cotton  Reporter,  the  matter  of  waste,  its  cause,  and  the  means  by  which  it  may 
be  reduced.    *    *    * 

Excessive  waste  may  result  from  any  one  or  a  combination  of  causes,  many  of  which 
may  be  eradicated  with  comparatively  little  effort,  while  others  may  be  dee])-seated 
and  difficult  to  cure.  In  some  instances  it  is  due  to  an  attemi)t  to  use  antiquated 
machinery  for  certain  apparently  unimportant  processes,  or  it  may  be  due  to  lack  of 
care  on  the  part  of  the  operative,  or  negligent  e  relative  to  the  proper  cleaning;  of  tlie 
machine.  The  latter  item  is  not  infrequently  the  cause  of  a  large  proportion  of  tlie 
seconds  produced,  which,  had  the  machinery  received  proper  attention,  might  haAe 
gone  through  as  perfect  goods,  whereas,  owing  to  the  desire  of  the  operative  to  turn  off 
as  larce  a  quantity  as  possible,  without  regard  to  quality,  a  portion  of  the  output  must 
be  sold  at  a  reduced  price. 

Seconds  are  a  very  serious  menace  to  the  success  of  any  manufactiu-ing  establish- 
ment and  should  be  carefully  guarded  against.  Each  department  head  should  see 
that  the  work  leaves  liis  department  in  a  condition  as  nearly  perfect  as  is  possible, 
and  that  the  waste  made  is  the  least  that  can  be  obtained  with  the  materials  used.  It 
is  sometimes  due  to  the  purchasing  of  inferior  materials,  rather  than  to  any  condition 
inside  the  mill,  that  an  excess  of  seconds  is  made. 

It  is  policy  to  purchase  the  bestpossible  yarn  obtainable  that  can  be  used  profitably 
in  the  production  of  the  goods.  The  arguments  in  favor  of  this  are  many  and  irrefut- 
able. In  spite  of  the  relatively  higher  cost,  it  is  true  economy,  as  the  waste  in  ea(>h 
department  is  much  less  than  in  the  case  of  lower-grade  yarn,  and  a  considerable 
saving  of  expense  is  noted  in  the  conversion  of  the  h^h-grade  material.  In  many 
cases  where  lack  of  profits  has  been  shown  in  the  yearly  statemerit,  examination  of  tlie 
methods  in  vogne  in  the  mill  will  reveal  that  either  one  or  both  of  the  above-mentioned 
evils  are  prevalent;  in  fact,  one  is  closely  related  to  the  other  and  in  few  instances  is 
either  encoimtered  alone. 

The  methods  to  be  used  in  overcoming  these  profit-destroying  evils  must  vary  with 
the  circumstances  surrounding  each  individual  case,  but  may  be  geTieralize<l  some- 
what after  this  manner.  Perfection  of  product  may  only  be  obtained  by  giving  the 
operative  proper  materials  and  adequate  machinery  equipment.  In  addition  to  these, 
there  must  be  inculcated  in  the  mind  of  each  worker  the  necessity  of  keeping  the 
machinery  in  his  or  her  charge  in  as  perfect  condition  as  |)ossible,  and  maintaining  a 
high  standard  of  excellence  in  the  production  of  the  machine,  even  if  the  rate  of  out- 
put is  somewhat  diminished  thereby.  Profits  are  the  result  of  selling  practically 
perfect  goods  at  the  predetermined  price  and  never  come  as  the  result  of  merchandising 
seconds  and  waste. 

The  following  paragraph,  quoted  from  Knit  Goods  for  May,  1915, 
indicates  that  American  manufacturers  of  knit  goods  have  recently 
increased  their  purchase  of  machinery: 

In  preparation  for  keen  domestic  competiticm,  and  for  still  keener  European  compe- 
tition at  the  close  of  the  war,  American  manufacturers  of  knit  goods  are  making  every 
effort  to  modernize  their  pknts  by  the  installation  of  the  latest  and  most  efl&cient 


machinery.  As  a  result,  the  makers  of  machinery  and  the  representatives  of  foreip 
manufacturers  report  a  considerably  greater  volume  of  business.  In  Philadelphia, 
Boston,  and  other  manufacturing  centers  there  is  renewed  iu?tivity  m  the  production 
of  mill  equipment  of  all  sorts,  and  buyers  are  insisting  on  prompt  delivery. 

Table  66  shows,  by  groups  of  establishments,  the  average  number 
of  machines  in  use,  compiled  from  data  obtained  from  all  of  the 
hosiery  mills  reporting  in  this  investigation: 

Table  66.— Kinds  and  Average  Number  op  Machines  Used,  By  Groups  op 

Establishments  . 


Mills  making- 


Groups. 


Full-fashioned  or  both  full- 
fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery 
(East  and  West) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsyl- 
vania and  New  York) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) — 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk 
(Pennsylvania) 

Seamless  "hosiery  of  cotton  and  siUc 
(West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton 
mixed  (East,  West,  and  South) . . 

Seamless  hosiery,  and  spinning 
yams  (East  and  West) 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Machines  at  end  of  the  year. 


Knitting. 


Ribbing. 


Circu- 
lar. 


All  groups. 


II.. 
III. 


IV.. 
V... 
VI.. 
VII. 


16 
16 

11 

9 

4 

8 


73 


307.9 

177.9 
204.8 

241.0 

193.6 

260.8 

242.3 


Flat. 


222.9 


a  73. 2 

0 
0 

0 

0 

0 

b6.0 


Circu- 
lar. 


9.7 


62.3 

35.4 

80.8 

51.5 

49.1 

90.3 

100.5 


Flat. 


62.9 


3.3 

0 
0 

0 

0 

0 

.3 


Loop- 
ing. 


.4 


55.2 

24.8 
35.4 

34.6 

34.6 

78.5 

58.1 


Sew- 
ing. 


40.2 


42.7 

5.3 
4.6 

6.2 

3.0 

6.5 

6.8 


9.8 


a  Some  of  the  mills  knitting  full-fashioned  hosiery  had  some  circular  machines  on  which  seamless  hosiery 
was  made.  .„  ,     ,, 

b  There  were  a  few  flat  machines  in  the  mills  in  this  group. 

MACHINE  GAUGES  AND  YARN  COUNTS. 

NEEDLE   SPACING. 

The  fineness  of  hosiery  depends  ui)on  the  number  of  needles  to  the 
knitting  machine  or  the  needle  spacing.  Obviously  a  machine  with 
20  neecSes  to  the  inch  will  knit  a  finer  stocking  than  a  machine  with 
14  needles  to  the  inch. 

Unfortimately  different  manufacturers  use  different  methods  of 
measuring  their  machines.  Although  the  accepted  method  of  meas- 
urement of  circular  machines  for  Imitting  seamless  hosiery  is  taken 
from  the  outside  of  the  diameter  of  the  cam  surface  of  the  needle 
cylinder,  and  not  from  back  to  back  of  needles,  there  are  many 
manufacturers  whose  measurements  are  based  on  the  inside  diameter. 

In  describing  circular  machines  the  figures  ''  3}-220,"  for  instance, 
mean  that  the  diameter  of  the  needle  cylinder  is  3}  inches  and  that 
there  are  220  needles  in  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder. 

On  a  circular  latched  needle  machine  the  cuts  eaual  the  needle 
spaces,  measured  on  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder.  The  word 
''  cut "  is  used  instead  of  needles  per  inch  to  save  confusion.  A  12-cut 
machine  has  12  grooves  per  inch  on  the  outside  cylinder  circum- 
ference (though  some  machines  have  the  grooves  on  the  inside),  and 
there  is  a  needle  in  each  of  the  cuts  or  grooves. 


I'   i 


186  THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 

In  describing  full-fashioned  machines,  which  are  flat .  the  expression 
''24  needles  to  the  inch/'  for  instance,  is  to  be  taken  literally. 

On  straight  or  flat  latched  needle  machines  the  gauge  is  usually  the 
number  of  needles  to  the  inch,  but  in  a  spring-needle  flat- type  machine 
it  is  necessary  to  multiply  the  gauge  by  §— that  is,  a  27  gauge,  for 
instance,  would  equal  18  needles  per  inch.  This  results  from  the  old 
knitting  frame  having  two  needles  cast  together  with  lead,  and  a 
gauge  of  3  inches  in  length  being  used.  Gauge  is  important 
because  it  decides  to  a  more  or  less  degree  the  count  of  yarn  that 
can  be  worked  successfully  upon  a  machme. 

The  English  gauge  equals  the  number  of  two-ne<idle  leads  in  3 
mches.  The  French  jauge  otos  (up  to  No.  27)  equals  the  number  of 
two-needle  leads  in  3  French  inches,  and  the  jauge  fin  (from  No.  20 
up)  equals  the  number  of  three-needle  leads  in  3  French  inches.  The 
German  gauge  equals  the  number  of  needles  to  the  Saxon  inch.  The 
French  inch  equals  1.0936  English  inches  and  the  Saxon  inch  equals 
0.9291  of  an  English  inch.     Therefore  a  No.  24  gauge  would  equal— 

Needles  to  an 
.  English  inch. 

English iQ 

Frenchgros .--.;;;:;:;:;:;::::::::::::::::::::::::  14.63 

r  rencn  fin , 21  95 

Saxon I!;;;;";;;;;;;!!;;;;;;;;;;;;;;::  25:33 

The  German  gauges  run  from  24  to  51,  those  most  frequently  used 
bemg  30,  33,  36,  and  39  (Saxon  figures).  The  English  gauges  most 
frequently  used  are  24  and  27  (Englisli  system)." 

YARN   COUNTS. 

There  are  two  standards  of  cotton  counts,  the  constant  weight 
system  and  the  constant  length  system.^ 

The  constant  weight  sj;stem  arbitrarily  accepts  840  yards  (hank  or 
skew)  to  1  pound.  In  this  system,  therefore,  the  cottt^n  count  equals 
the  number  of  yards  in  1  poimd  divided  by  840.  As  the  yarn  is  liner 
the  number  increases.  This  is  the  system  principally  used  for  cotton 
yams  in  hosiery  manufacturing. 

The  constant  length  system  is  worked  out  differently.  Assuming 
50  yards  as  the  unit  of  length,  a  yam  of  which  50  yards  weigh  1  grain 
is  a  1-grain  yam.  Then  a  yam  of  which  50  yards  w(ugh  2  grains  is  a 
2-^ain  yam.  In  this  system  the  number  of  the  yarn  increases  as  the 
weight  of  the  yarn  increases. 

Worsted,  wool,  and  silk  coimts  are  usually  in  the  first  system. 
Worsted  is  based  on  560  yards  to  the  pound,  wool  on  1,600  yards  to 
the  pound,  reeled  silk  on  520  yards  to  the  pound,  and  spun  silk  the 
same  as  cotton,  or  840  yards  to  the  pound,  except  that  no  matter  how 
many  strands  there  are  it  is  treated  as  a  single  yarn. 

Care  must  be  taken  to  distinguish  between  a  two-i>ly  thi-ead  ajid  a 
two-thread  yam.  A  50  two-ply  thread  means  two  50s  twisted 
together  into  a  single  yam.  A  two-thread  yam  means  two  threads 
used  as  one,  as,  for  example,  in  knitting  a  fabric  it  would  be  running 
two  separate  threads  in  each  feed. 

The  English  yam  count  for  cotton  is  840  yards  to  the  pound  or 
hank,  and  for  worsted  560  yards.  The  yam  count  in  Germany  is 
generally  the  same  as  the  English  system  for  cotton.     To  a  small 

1908^'  ^'  ^'^^^  Clark's  article  on  German  knit  goods.  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  July  22, 
*  Ernest  Tompkins:  Science  of  Knitting,  p.  187. 


PRODUCTS,  MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES.  187 

extent,  however,  the  metric  system  of  a  thousand  meters  contamed 
in  1,000  grains  is  used.  The  German  worsted  count  is  sometimes  the 
same  as  the  English  count  of  560  yards  to  the  pound,  and  sometimes 
is  the  same  as  the  English  cotton  count  of  840  yards  (768  meters)  to 
the  pound. 

YARNS    COMMONLY   USED. 

Cotton  is  used  most  extensively  in  the  manufacture  of  hosiery. 

Wool,  the  outer  covering  of  the  sheep,  Cashmere  eoat,  Angora  goat, 
and  Llama  goat  is  used  to  a  comparatively  small  extent  and  prm- 
cipally  for  lumbermen's  and  sportsmen's  hosiery. 

Pure  reeled  silk  is  used  to  a  very  limited  extent.  Spirn  silk^that 
is,  spun  from  the  waste  of  cocoons  in  reelmg,  or  from  broken  cocoons 
and  tom  up  silk  fabrics— is  used  very  extensively.  Japan-spun  silk 
contams  about  18  per  cent  gum.  European  and  Chmese  silk  con- 
tains about  24  per  cent  gum.  Spun  silk  also  contains  a  good  deal  of 
tin  and  lead,  which  is  put  into  the  silk  to  make  it  heavier  m  weight. 

Artificial  silk  is  generally  made  of  wood  pulp,  and  contains  no  sdk 
whatever.  It  is  more  lustrous  than  reeled  silk,  but  is  not  as  strong 
or  elastic  and  is  affected  by  water.     It  is  used  extensively  m  medium- 

nriced  hosier v» 

Lisle  is  a  two-fold  cotton  yam,  mdividual  threads  being  spun  with 
a  right-and-left  hand  twist  respectively  and  afterwards  doubled 
together,  resulting  in  a  firm,  hard-wearing  yam.     It  is  used  exten- 

sivelv. 

Mercerized  yam  is  a  cotton  yam  subjected  to  a  mechanical  and 
chemical  treatment,  which  causes  the  cotton  fiber  to  resume  its 
original  tubular  form,  resulting  in  a  fiber  of  greater  luster  and  greater 
affinity  for  dyestuffs.  This  treatment  of  cotton  to  smiilarize  silk 
was,  m  1844,  successfully  tried  by  John  Mercer,  of  Manchester, 
England,  and  yam  so  treated  has  since  been  called  mercerized  yam, 
though  it  appears  that  the  Germans  knew  of  this  treatment  before 
Mercer  did.  When  the  yarn  is  mercerized  it  usually  has  a  fuzzv 
appearance.  In  order  to  remove  this  fuzz  the  yam  is  often  gassed, 
which  results  in  a  smooth,  fine  appearing  yam.  Mercerized  yarns 
are  used  very  extensively. 

Following  are  abbreviations  of  the  names  of  the  cotton  yams 
reported  to  have  been  used  by  all  the  mills  visited  durmg  this  inves- 
tigation : 

j^  p  Carded  peeler. 

Q  ■  p Combed  peeler. 

g"  j^  'p' .........! Southern,  carded  peeler. 

£   j^'  p ' "     Eastern  carded  peeler. 

g  ■  Q  'p Southern  combed  peeler. 

£   Q Eastern  combed. 

g*  rj'  p " '     Eastern  combed  peeler. 

Q^ct     .......!... Combed  Egyptian. 

g*  J Sea  island. 

(i'  g "  J ...]........ Combed  sea  bland. 

Peeler  is  a  term  commonly  used  for  describing  cotton  grown  in  the 
United  States.  Sou  them  carded  peeler  is  yam  spun  m  sou  them  mills, 
and  eastem  carded  peeler  is  spun  m  New  England.  Combed  cotton  is 
that  from  which  the  short  fibers  have  been  removed  after  they  have 
been  carded.  Egyptian  cotton  has  a  longer  staple  than  southem 
cotton  and  is  straw  colored.  Sea-island  cotton  is  white  and  is  grown 
on  the  South  Atlantic  coast.  It  has  a  longer  staple  than  even 
Egyptian  cotton  and  is  used  for  spummg  the  finest  yarns. 


188 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


For  seamless  hosiery  New  England  uses  all  numbers  of  cotton  yams 
from  14/1  E  K.  P.  to  30/1  E.  K.  P.  Much  merino  and  worsted  and 
a  httle  woolen  yarn  is  used.  The  merino  numbers  used  vary  from 
34/2s  to  100  grain  merino.  The  worsted  yarns  used  sliow  a  pre- 
dommance  of  40/ls  with  various  percentages  of  one  half  blood. 

In  manufacturing  seamless  hosiery,  the  East  (New  York  and 
Pennsylvania)  uses  all  numbers  of  cotton  yams  from  10/1  S.  K.  P.  to 
50s,  and  some  few  numbers  above  50s,  as  high  as  80s.  mostly  E.  C.  Ps 
A  great  amount  of  all  kinds  of  silk,  (vspeci^y  Japan,  is  used,  as  well 
as  artificial  silk  (demer  130),  mercerized  yams,  and  a  small  amount 
of  C.  Eg. 

For  seamless  hosiery  the  West  uses  all  numbers  from  7/ Is  E.  K.  P 
to  100s.  There  is  a  predommance  of  30/ls  of  C.  S.  I.  and  Egyptian 
both  plain  and  mercerized.  All  kinds  of  silk  are  used,  especially 
Japan.  This  is  the  only  section  of  the  country  that  as  a  whole  uses 
as  high  as  120  and  150  S.  I.  yam.  A  small  amount  of  artificial  silk  of 
denier  150  is  used  and  a  very  small  amount  of  merino. 

The  South  uses  all  numbers  from  7/ Is  to  60s,  generally  S.  K.  P. 

In  manufacturing  full-fashioned  hosiery  the  East  generally  uses  the 
higher  numbers  of  E.  C.  P.  and  mercerized  yams  from  44/ls  to  80/2s 
Some  Egyptian  lisles,  that  of  about  78/2s  and  C.  S.  Is.  from  40  to 
100/2S  are  used  to  some  extent.     Also  a  large  amount,  of  silk  is  used 
usually  Jap  tram.  ' 

New  England  uses  for  full-fashioned  hosiery  a  Httle  E.  C.  P.,  but 

fenerally  Japan  silk  of  different  varit^ties  sucli  as  best  No.  1  extra, 
est  No.  1,  best  doubled,  best  doubltMl  extra,  etc.  A  small  amount 
of  S.  I.  and  merino  and  worsted  is  used.  The  nu^rinos  used  are 
usually  from  35/ls  to  50/ls,  and  the  worsted  from  40/ls  to  45/ls. 

The  West  uses  for  full-fashioned  hosiery  a  small  amount  of  20/ls 
E.  C.  Ps.,  most  of  this  kind  of  yam  running  from  408  to  80s.  Both 
plaux  and  mercerized  C.  Eg.  and  C.  S.  I.  are  used  to  some  extent  A 
little  E.  C.  P.  above  100  and  up  to  120  is  used. 

No  full-fashioning  mills  were  reported  from  the  South. 

Germany,  which  makes  full-fashioned  hosiery  ahnost  entirely,  uses 
the  followmg  yam  counts:  All  numbers  from  10s  to  32s,  with  a  few 
above  32s  as  high  as  100  and  a  very  few  at  200.  Most  of  the  yarns 
used  are  cotton  and  usually  are  single,  though  there  is  some  small 
amount  of  double  yarns  used.  Woo&ii  yarns  are  also  used  to  a  very 
small  extent.* 

MANUFACTUMNQ  PROCESSES. 

Following  is  a  description  of  the  principal  hosiery  processes  given 
in  the  order  in  which  they  are  usually  performed  in  the  mill.  Some 
mills  manufacturing  different  classes  of  goods  or  usiug  special  ma- 
chines have  a  different  sequence  of  operations.  Some  operations 
are  combined  in  certain  mills,  but  the  following  is  the  order  in  which 
the  operations  are  generally  performed.  Turning  has  becm  left  out 
of  the  description,  and  examming  is  only  noted  once,  though  some 
mills  have  three  or  four  inspections  at  various  stages  of  the  work. 
The  production  given  at  the  end  of  each  operation  is  to  be  tak(^n  in 
its  broadest  term.  The  amount  of  production  depends  upon  the 
number  of  working  hours,  the  number  of  machines  attended^by  one 

a  W.  A.  Graham  Clark's  article  on  German  knit  goods,  DaUy  Consular  and  Tra<le  Reports,  July  22, 1908. 


PRODUCTS,   MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


189 


or  more  persons,  the  skill  of  the  operator,  the  good  or  bad  mnnmg  of 
the  yam,  the  kind  of  goods  produced,  and  other  factors.  The  pro- 
duction, then,  is  to  be  taken  as  a  general  indication  rather  than  as 
any  definite  specific  amount. 

WINDING. 

This  operation  consists  of  winding  the  yarn  onto  winder  bobbins, 
to  prepare  the  yarn  for  the  knitting  machme.  The  large  hosiery 
mill  usually  winds  its  own  yam,  but  smaller  mills  generally  pur- 
chase wound  yam.  Poor  grades  of  hosiery  are  knit  from  the  cop  or 
jack  bobbin,  which  is  the  usual  form  in  which  the  yarn  comes  from 
the  yarn  mill.  Winding  is  essential  where  a  good  product  is  desu-ed, 
the  wound  yarn  being  more  free  of  knots  and  the  weak  places  having 
been  revealed  and  corrected.  A  rewound  bobbin  insures  a  correct 
amount  of  yarn  fed  at  the  proper  tension  to  the  knitting  machine, 
but  if  the  yam  is  not  wound  uniformly  it  is  liable  to  kink  and  break. 
Winding  saves  much  of  the  time  and  labor  of  the  knitter,  reduces 
the  number  of  seconds,  and  saves  broken  needles  and  other  annoy- 

ances 
One  woman  can  attend  to  one  machine  of  from  18  to  24  bobbins. 

RIBBING. 

In  knitting  men's  half  hose  or  cliildren's  stockings,  either  seamless 
or  full  fashioned,  the  ribbed  portion  is  knit  first  on  a  ribbing  machme. 
The  rib  may  be  of  various  kinds,  depending  upon  the  desired  top 
and  on  the  machine  used.  The  rib  for  men's  half  hose  is  the  top  or 
welt,  usually  about  3  or  4  inches  in  length,  whereas  in  children's  hose 
the  rib  top  continues  down  to  the  heel.  The  ribbed  tops  are  knitted 
in  the  form  of  a  cylinder  or  tube  and  come  out  of  the  machine  in  a 
continuous  string,  with  dropped  stitches  at  the  proper  intervals  indi- 
cating where  the  rib  is  to  be  cut.  The  rib  is  cut  either  automatically 
by  the  machme  itseK  or  by  hand,  the  better  grade  of  goods  usually 
employing  the  latter  method,  though  it  is  much  slower. 

The  ribbed  tops  for  seamless  hosiery  are  always  knit  on  a  circular 
latch-needle  machine  and  those  for  full-fashioned  hosiery  usually 
on  a  flat  spring-needle  machine.  ,  ^ 

Seamless.— One  girl  can  attend  to  12  machines  knittmg  children  s 
ribbed  tops,  with  a  production  of  from  36  to  42  dozen  per  day,  or 
15  machines  knitting  ribbed  tops  for  men's  half  hose,  with  a  pro- 
duction of  about  225  dozen  per  day. 

Full  fashioned.— One  man  and  a  boy  helper  workmg  on  one  32-sec- 
tion  machine  will  knit  about  140  dozen  ribs  per  day. 

Rih  cutting.— A  girl  by  hand  can  cut  from  80  to  110  dozen  ribs  and 
by  machine  2,000  to  2,500  dozen  ribs  per  day. 

TRANSFERRING   OR  TOPPING. 

The  ribbed  welt  of  the  men's  half  hose  or  the  ribbed  leg  of  the 
children's  stocking  is  now  transferred  onto  the  knitting  machine, 
usually  designated  as  a  footer,  which  knits  the  remamder  of  the  leg 
and  foot  of  the  men's  hose  or  the  foot  of  the  children's  stockmgs. 

The  transferring  in  the  case  of  seamless  hosiery  is  done  by  means 
of  a  quill  ring  containing  the  same  number  of  steel  quills  as  the  foot- 


'i' 


190 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


PRODUCTS,   MACHINERY,  AND  PROCESSES. 


191 


m^  machine  has  needles.  The  rib  is  transferred  by  hand  to  the 
quiil  rmg,  which  is  then  pressed  down  with  the  quills  in  their  proper 
places  on  the  footer  needles,  after  wliich  the  quill  ring  is  removed 
Transferring  children's  ribbed  legs,  though  done  in  the  same  way 
as  men  s  half  hose,  requires  more  skill.  Here  the  entire  leg.  not  a 
portion  of  the  leg,  must  be  transferred. 

There  are  more  stitches  in  the  ribbed  leg  portion  than  in  the  foot 
1  i)f  ^^^J^^y  ^^7.^  ^^eil  knit  on  a  22()-neeae  machine,  the  foot  on  a 
160-needle  machine.  In  transferring,  then,  60  stitches  have  to  b(> 
disposed  of.  This  requires  doubling  up,  putting  two  stitches  of  the 
ribbed  leg  on  one  stitch  of  the  foot.      ^    ^  ^ 

In  full-fashioned  half  hose  the  transferrmg  or  running  on  is  done 
bv  means  of  a  straight  transfer  bar,  wliich  contains  the  same  number 
ot  points  as  the  needles  contained  in  one  section  of  the  knitting  ma- 
chine, but  always  less  than  the  number  of  needles  m  the  ribbing 
machine,  so  as  to  permit  doubling  up.  The  bar  wDl  hold  eight  or 
nine  ribs,  which  the  knitter  takes  off  as  he  needs 

^mmZ^ss.— One  girl  will  transfer  8  to  12  dozen  children's  tops  or 
about  20  to  25  dozen  half  hose  per  day. 

Fvll  fashioned. —One  girl  will  transfer  an  averages  of  about  22  to 
40  dozen  half  hose  per  day. 

KNITTING. 

\.J^,t^^  ^^^a{  ^^^"^\^ss  hosienr,  the  knittmg  machine,  which  has 
had  the  ribbed  top  or  leg  transferred  to  it,  automaticaUy  knits  the 
remainder  of  the  stocking.  The  machine  is  ch-cular,  and  knits  the  leg 
below  the  rib  top  to  the  toe  or  the  foot  alone,  depending  upon  wKothe? 
it  IS  a  half  hose  or  children's  stocking.  Ladies'  seamless  hosierv 
requires  no  transferrmg,  the  entire  stocking  being  knit  on  the  one 
machme  In  every  case  however,  the  machine  leavers  only  the  toe 
^r*  i""  knmpg  the  leg  the  machine  goes  aU  the  way  round. 
When  the  heel  is  reached  the  machine  has  a  reciprocating  motion 
going  half  way  round  and  then  back  again.  In  knitting  the  foot  the 
machine  goes  aU  the  way  round  again 

\J^  fitting  a  high  splice  or  a  double  or  triple  sole  there  remains 
mside  the  stockmg  a  floating  thread.  The  machine,  in  knitting  the 
high  sphce  and  foot,  goes  all  the  way  round,  so  as  to  i)revent  a  double 
thickness;  for  example,  on  the  top  of  tlie  foot  the  extra  yarns  are  only 
carried  halfway  round   at  which  point  they  are  then  thrown  out. 

In  the  case  of  fuU-fashioned  hose,  the  ribbed  top  having  been 
transferred  to  a  flat  legging  machine,  the  machme  knits  the  re- 
mainder of  the  leg  down  to  and  nicluding  the  open  heel.  In 
ladies  stockings  the  knitting  machine  knits  from  the  very  top 
to  and  including  the  open  heel.  Up  to  the  point  where  the  splic- 
ing IS  inserted  the  fulf-fashioned  legger  has'^but  one  carrier  At 
the  pomt  where  the  splicmg  is  inserted  the  yarn  is  slackened,  so 
that  the  double  thickness  will  not  be  too  stifle.  Two  extra  carriei^ 
are  brought  in,  the  main  carrier  going  straight  across,  and  the  high 
sphcmg  carriers,  one  on  each  side,  tra^  cling  just  the  proper  distance 
for  the  sphcmg  and  then  gom^  back,  wien  the  he'el  is  reached  a 
fourth  carrier  is  brought  m,  which  takes  the  place  of  the  main  car- 
rier, which  IS  now  hel5  to  knit  the  right-hand  Lei.  Both  men^s  and 
ladies   hosiery  must  then  be  transferrin!  by  means  of  a  transfer  bai- 


onto  a  specially  constructed  footing  machine  which  knits  the  foot. 
Unlike  the  seamless,  the  full-fashioned  knitting  machine  leaves  the 
heel  open  as  well  as  the  toe.  In  knitting  the  foot  the  splicing  is  con- 
tinued up  to  the  beginning  of  the  toe,  one  main  and  two  sphcmg  yam 
carriers  being  employed.  At  the  beginning  of  the  toe  the  narrowing 
commences,  only  one  main  and  one  splice  carrier  going  all  way  across. 

Children's  full-fashioned  hosiery  is  made  only  to  a  limited  extent 
in  the  United  States,  but  where  such  a  product  is  desired  the  ribbed 
leg  is  usually  knit  on  a  circular  latch-needle  machine. 

Seamless. — One  girl  attending  4  men's  half-hose  machines  wiU  knit 
about  20  dozen  per  day.  One  girl  attending  10  ladies'  stocking 
machines  will  knit  about  30  dozen  per  day. 

Full  fasTiioned. — One  man  and  boy  on  a  20-section  half -hose  leg- 
ging machine  will  knit  about  40  dozen  per  day,  and  on  two  20-section 
ladies'  legging  machines  will  knit  about  24  dozen  per  day. 

One  man  and  boy  on  one  20-section  footing  machine  will  knit 
about  40  dozen  per  day. 


WELTING. 


Welting  is  done  only  on  ladies'  hosiery.  In  seamless  hosiery  the 
top  of  the  hose  is  doubled  back  to  the  desired  length  by  hand  or  by 
devices  designed  by  the  various  manufacturers,  and  then  put  on  a 
special  sewing  machine  of  high  speed,  known  as  a  welter.  This 
machine  sews  the  welt  with  an  overlock  stitch,  trimming  as  it  sews. 
It  makes  a  strong,  fine-appearing  finished  seam  that  prevents  the 
welt  from  raveling  back. 

In  full-fashioned  hosiery  a  machine  knits  the  leg  of  the  stocking, 
and  when  the  desired  length  is  reached,  about  8  or  10  inches,  the 
machine  is  stopped,  the  knit  fabric  is  doubled,  and  the  machine  then 
continues  to  knit  the  remainder  of  the  leg.  Some  machines  knit  the 
welt  as  a  part  of  the  stocking,  the  welt  made  by  such  a  machine  being 
designated  as  an  integral  welt.  Integral  welts  are  usually  found 
only  in  full-fashioned  hosiery. 

Seamless. — One  girl  using  one  welting  machme  will  welt  about  50 
dozen  stockings  per  day. 

LOOPING   OR   JOINING. 

Looping  seamless  hosiery  consists  of  closing  the  open  edges  of  the 
toe,  and  in  full-fashioned  hosiery  closing  the  open  edges  of  both  the 
heel  and  the  toe.  The  looper  is  a  circular  machine,  with  points  or 
needles  projecting  from  a  dial.  The  dial  revolves  continuously  at  a 
slow  rate  of  speed.  As  it  does  so  the  top  of  the  toe  is  run  on  first  by 
hand,  then  the  corresponding  exactly  opposite  loops  of  the  bottom 
of  the  toe  are  placed  on  the  same  points.  The  stocking  passes  a 
small  blade  attached  to  the  machine  which  cuts  away  any  unnecessary 
cloth  and  leaves  the  cut  surface  clean.  As  the  stocking  passes  the 
back  of  the  machine  a  needle  passes  through  the  proper  double  sets 
of  loops,  fastening  the  open  edges  together.  A  guide  keeps  the  thread 
from  breaking  by  holding  it  in  the  same  place  as  the  machine  revolves. 

In  full-fashioned  hosiery,  in  addition  to  the  toes,  the  heels  must 
also  be  looped.  The  looping  is  done  in  the  same  way  and  on  the  same 
kind  of  machine  as  is  used  for  seamless  hosiery. 

A  girl  working  on  one  looping  machine  will  loop  from  25  to  50 
dozen  toes  or  18  to  30  dozen  toes  and  heels  per  day. 


I 


192 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


PRODUCTS,   MACHINERY,  AND   PROCESSES. 


193 


SEAMING. 

After  a  full-fashioned  stocking  has  been  looped  it  is  sent  to  the 
seamer.  The  stocking  is  seamed  from  the  end  of  the  toe  down  the 
sole  of  the  foot  and  up  the  back  of  the  leg  to  the  top  of  the  welt,  leav- 
mg  a  small  portion  open  at  the  begmning  of  the  welt  to  make  it  more 
elastic.  The  stocking  is  seamed  on  the  mside  with  a  lock  stitch  and 
IS  so  seamed  that  a  proper  selvage  is  obtained. 

A  girl  on  one  seaming  machine  will  seam  from  15  to  28  dozen 
stockings  per  day. 

INSPECTING   OR   EXAMINING  AND   MENDING. 

Stockings  are  now  sent  to  inspectors,  who  stretch  them  over  a  form 
and  examine  them  for  defects  caused  by  bad  needles,  dropped 
stitches,  etc.,  and  who  cut  the  floating  threads.  If  the  defect  is 
shght,  the  stocking  is  sent  to  a  mender.  In  this  mending  in  the 
rough,  as  it  is  called,  the  hose  is  stretched  over  a  board  shaped  like  a 
leg  and  foot  and  the  mender  corrects  by  hand  what  defects  she  can 
usmg  a  needle  and  thread.  If,  however,  the  stockings  after  mending 
are  not  good  enough  for  first  quality  goods,  they  are  sold  as  seconds 
or  are  discarded. 

A  girl  by  hand  will  cut  100  to  170  dozen  and  by  machine  300  dozen 
floating  threads  per  day. 

A  girl  who  examines  only  can  inspect  from  75  to  150  dozen  per  day. 
A  girl  who  mends  only  can  correct  about  15  to  30  dozen  per  day. 

DYEING. 

The  stocking  being  completely  finished  as  regards  knitting  and 
sewmg  is  then  bleached  or  dved.  Usually  this  work  is  done  bv  outside 
houses,  though  some  few  large  manufacturers  maintain  their  own 
dyemg  plants.  Where  ingrain  yarns  have  been  used,  the  yarn  being 
dyed  the  desired  color  before  the  stocking  was  knit,  no  dyeing  is 
required.  Ingrain  yams  are  seldom  used  except  in  very  good  silk, 
because  of  the  difficulty  in  handhng  colored  yams,  especi  Jly  black! 
When  such  yams  are  used,  the  work  is  slow;  it  is  a  strain  on  the  eyes 
of  the  operators,  and  costs  more,  so  that  most  manufacturers  knit  in 
the  white  and  dye  the  desired  color  after  the  stocking  has  been  knit. 

BOARDING. 

From  the  dyer  the  hosiery  comes  to  the  boarder  in  a  damp  condi- 
tion. If  the  stocking  has  been  knit  from  an  ingrain  yarn,  it  is  put  in 
a  wet  linen  cloth  to  dampen  it  before  it  is  boarded.  Though  not 
entirely  essential,  damp  hosiery  is  always  desired,  as  in  that  state  it 
makes  shaping  and  stretching  easier.  The  boarder  draws,  by  hand, 
the  damp  hose  smooth  over  boards  shaped  to  the  outline  of  the  foot 
and  leg. 

Boarding  is  very  important  in  seamless  hosiery,  for,  the  hose  not 
being  knit  to  shape  or  actual  size,  the  boarding  reaUy  determines  the 
shape  and  size.  In  full-fashioned  hosiery  boarding  is  used  to  bring 
out  the  shape  better.  Full-fashion(»,d  hosiery,  unlike  seamless,  is 
always  boarded  in  pairs,  and  the  stocking  is  put  on  the  board  so 
that  the  seams  are  a  Httle  inside,  in  order  not  to  be  8<ien. 

The  leg  part  of  children's  stockings,  no  shaping  being  required,  is 
stretched  over  a  straight  board. 


The  stockings  having  been  stretched  over  boards,  the  boards  are 
put  in  racks,  and  the  racks  placed  in  a  hot  box  or  drying  kihi  to  dry. 
The  dry  box  contains  steam  coils  under  a  pressure  of  about  80  pounds, 
])roducing  a  temperature  varying  around  190°.  The  length  of  time 
the  stockings  are  permitted  to  remain  in  the  hot  box  depends  upon 
the  kind  of  stockings  and  the  weight  of  the  goods.  From  two  to 
seven  minutes  is  the  usual  time. 

Seamless. — One  man  will  board  100  to  140  dozen  stockings  per  day. 

FuU-fasJiioned. — One  man  will  board  about  55  dozen  half  hose  or 
40  dozen  ladies'  hose  per  day. 

PRESSING. 

This  operation  consists  in  pressing  the  hosiery  to  give  it  a  smooth, 
finished  appearance.  The  hosiery  is  placed  flat  between  press- 
boards  made  of  highly  polished  glazed  pasteboards.  Each  set  of 
pressboards  will  hold  one  dozen  men's  haK  hose  or  one-half  dozen 
stockings.  The  sets  are  then  placed,  one  on  top  of  the  other,  in  a 
hydrauBc  press.  Around  the  press  are  pipes,  through  which  steam 
is  first  passed  from  5  to  15  minutes,  after  which  cold  water  is  run 
through  the  pipes  for  about  an  hour.  The  length  of  time  that  the 
steam  and  water  are  utilized  depends  upon  the  quafity  of  the  goods. 
The  hosiery  remains  in  the  press  about  six  hours,  or  overnight.  The 
highly  polished  surface  of  the  pressboards  imparts  a  luster  and  fine 
finish  to  the  stocking. 

PAIRING. 

This  consists  of  mating  or  matching  the  stockings  in  sets  of  two  of  a 
kind,  and  intended  to  be  used  together.  In  seanuess  hosiery  there  is 
no  right  and  left,  but  the  pairer  matches  two  stockings  of  the  same  size 
and  length,  the  stockings  having  been  stretched  to  irregular  lengths  in 
boarding.  In  fuU-fashioned  hosiery,  there  being  a  right  and  left,  the 
pairer  must  pick  out  the  proper  right  and  left  stockings  of  the  various 
sizes.     The  pairer  often  inspects  the  finished  stockings  for  defects. 

A  girl  wlU  pair  from  150  to  250  dozen  stockings  per  day. 

STAMPING. 

After  being  paired  the  stocking  is  stamped.  The  trade-mark  of  the 
manufacturer  or  of  the  purchaser  and  the  size  are  stamped  on  the  stock- 
ing, gold  leaf  being  used  on  good  stockings  or  ink  on  cheap  stockings. 

One  girl  or  boy  can  stamp  from  700  to  900  dozen  stockings  per  day. 

ORNAMENTING. 

If  any  embroidery  like  clockuio;  is  to  bo  put  on,  it  is  done  after 
the  stocking  is  finished  and  examined  and  before  it  is  folded.  The 
embroidery  is  usually  put  on  by  hand,  with  needle  and  thread.  In 
ladies'  full-fashioned  hosiery,  if  beading  is  to  be  put  on,  it  is  done 
before  seaming.  The  fabric  must  be  stretched  taut,  as  the  beads  are 
put  on  by  a  machine.  This  can  not  be  done  after  the  stocking  has 
been  seamed. 

FOLDING. 

The  folder  puts  on  the  bands  and  labels  and  folds  the  finished 
stockings  to  the  size  desired  for  packing  in  a  box.  Folding  and  pairing 
are  often  done  by  the  same  operator,  who  also  examines  the  stockings 
and  counts  the  dozens. 

A  girl  can  fold  from  400  to  500  dozen  stockings  per  day. 

0963°— 15 13 


194 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


BOXING. 


The  boxer  packs  the  finished  folded  stockings  in  boxes,  a  half  dozen 
or  a  dozen  to  the  box,  and  ties  the  box. 

A  girl  or  boy  can  put  from  700  to  900  dozen  stockings  into  boxes 
per  day. 

ORDER  OF   PROCESSES. 

Tables  67  and  68  describe  the  processes  of  seamless  and  full- 
fashioned  hosiery  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  usually  performed  in 
the  mill.  With  each  operation  is  given  the  machine  used  and  desig- 
nation of  the  operator.  The  distinction  between  man  and  boy  and 
the  term  ''women"  are  to  be  taken  literally.  Where  the  term  ''girl' 
is  used  it  often  includes  women. 

Table  67. — Processes  in   Manufacturincj    Seamless    Hosiery,    Kinds  op 
Machines  Used,  and  Designations  of  Operators. 


Processes. 


Winding 

Ribbing 

Cutting  ribs 

Transferring  or  topping. 

Knitting 

Welting 

Looping 

Turning 

Cutting  floating  threads. 

Examining 

Mending 

Dyeing 

Turning 

Boarding 

Pressing 

Pairings 

Clocking 

Stamping 

Folding 

Boxing 


Handwork  or  kind  of 
machine  used. 


Winding 

Ribber 

Hand,  shears,  or  machine. 

Quill  ring 

Knitting 

Welting 

l/ooping 

Hand 

Shears  or  special  machine. 


Needle  and  thread . 


Hand 

Boards 

Hydraulic  press. . . 

Hand 

Needle  and  thread . 

Stamp 

Hand. 

do 


Designation  of  occupation. 


Winder 

Knitter 

Kib  cutter.. 

Topper 

K  nitter 

Welter 

l.ooper 

Turner 

Inspector 

-do 

Mender 

Dyer 

Turner 

Boarder 

{T'resser 
Press  hand. . 

Fairer 

Embroiderer 

Stamper 

Folder 

Boxer 


Uaual  operator. 


Woman- 
Girl. 

Do. 

Do, 

Da 

Da 

Da 

Da 

Da 

Da 

Do. 
Man. 
Girl. 
Man. 

Da 
Man  or  womnn. 
Girl. 

Do. 
Girl  or  boy. 
Girl. 
Girl  or  boy. 


Table  68. — Processes  in  Manufacturing  Fill-Fashioned  Hosiery,  Kinds  of 
Machines  Used,  and  Designations  op  Operators. 


Processes. 


Winding. 
Ribbing. 


Rib  cutting 

Transferring  or  topping. 
Knitting  (leg) 


Transferring  or  topping. 
Knitting  (foot) 


Welting 

Looping 

Beading 

Seaming 

Turning 

Examining. 

Mending 

Dyeing 

Boardmg... 

I'ressing — 

Pairing 

Clocking 

Stamping... 

Folding 

Boxing 


Handwork  or  kind  of 
machine  used. 


Winding. 
Ribber. . . 


Hand,  shears,  or  machine. 

Transfer  bar 

Knitting  (legger) 


Transfer  bar 

Knitting  (footer). 


Welting  or  knitting. 

Looping 

lieading 

Seaming 

Hand 


Needle  and  thread . 


Board 

Hydraulic  press. . . 

Hand 

Needle  and  thread . 

Stamp 

Hand. 

do 


1  )esignation  of  occupation. 


Winder . 
Knitter. 


Rib  cutter. 

Topper 

Knitter... 


Topper. 
Knitter . 


Welter  or  knitter. 

Looper 

Header 

Seamer 

Turner 

Inspector 

Mender 

Dyer 

Boarder 

fPresser 

[  Press  hand 

Fairer 

Embroiderer 

Stamper 

Folder 

Boxer 


Usual  operator. 


Woman. 

Man      and      boy 

helper. 
Girl. 

Do. 
Man      and      boy 

helper. 
Girl. 
Man      and      boy 

helper. 
Girl  or  man. 
Girl. 

Da 

Da 

Da 

Da 

Da 
Man. 

Da 

Do. 
Man  or  woman. 
Girl. 

Do. 
Girl  or  boy. 
Girl. 
Girl  or  boy. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

WORKING  CONDITIONS. 

EMPLOYEES. 

Of  the  73  establishments  which  manufacture  hosiery  and  which 
suppUed  data  for  this  investigation,  34  reported  that  there  were  no 
particularly  dull  months  during  the  year.  The  reports  of  the  other 
39  establishments  indicated  that  the  busiest  months  were  March  and 
April,  the  dullest  months  July,  August,  and  September. 

The  reports  show  that  in  their  busy  season  the  73  establishments 
employed  4,620  males  and  12,424  females,  a  total  of  17,044  who  were 
16  years  of  age  and  oyer;  and  466  males  and  984  females,  a  total  of 
1,450  who  were  under  16  years  of  age.  The  whole  number  em- 
ployed was  18,494,  of  whom  the  1,450  that  were  under  16  years  of 
age  constituted  7.85  per  cent. 

The  average  number  of  employees  per  estabhshment  reported  by 
the  73  establislmients  is  shown  in  Table  69,  in  which  they  are  vari- 
ously classified. 

Table  69. — Average  Number  op  Employees  per  Establishment  in  all  Depart- 
ments, Including  Superintendents,  Foremen,  Clerks,  and  General  Help, 
by  Groups  of  Establishments  and  by  Sex,  Piece  and  Time  Workers,  During 
Busy  Season  and  Dull  Season. 


Groups. 

Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Total. 

Classification. 

Busy  season.    1     Dull  season. 

Male. 

Fe- 
male. 

Male. 

Fe- 
male. 

16  years  of  age  and  over: 
Mills  making- 
Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seam- 
less hosiery  (East  and  West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania  and 

New  York). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) 

I 

n 

m 

IV 

v 

VI 

VII 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 
4 

8 

199.2 

25.5 

49.6 
28.4 

33.2 
51.0 

101.5 

4n.3 

86.3 

158.2 
139.8 

138.8 
129.3 

188.2 

195.0 

25.0 

47.6 
26.7 

32.1 
51.0 

96.5 

398.9 

82.1 

150.9 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (Pennsyl- 
vania). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed 
(East,  West,  and  South). 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yams  (East 
and  West). 

134.5 

136.0 
129.3 

175.1 

Averace 

63.3 

170.2 

61.3 

163.6 

I 

II 

Ill 

IV 

V 

VI 

VII 

9 

16 

16 
11 

9 

4 

8 

Under  16  years  of  age: 
Mills  making- 
Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fashioned  and  seam- 
less hosiery  (East  and  West). 
Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (Pennsylvania  and 

New  York). 
Seamless  cotton  hosierv  (South) 

19.9 

3.1 

7.1 
5.3 

1.4 
1.1 

6.2 

22.2 

16.7 

6.6 
15.5 

20.0 
.3 

7.6 

19.9 

3.1 

6.7 
4.9 

1.4 
1.1 

5.6 

22.2 

16.7 

6.0 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (Pennsyl- 
vania). 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and  silk  (West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed 
(East,  West,  and  South). 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning  yams  (East 
and  West). 

15.0 

20.0 
.3 

6.9 

Averace    .           .        

6.4 

13.5 

6.2 

13.2 

Average,  all  acres                     

69.7 

183.7 

67.5 

176.8 

195 


196 


THE   HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


Table  69.— Average  Number  op  Employees  per  Establishment  in  all  Depai  r 
MENTS,  Including  Superintendents,  Foremen,  Clerks,  and  General  Hei  r 
BY  Groups  op  Establishments  and  by  Sex,  Piece  and  Time  Workers,  Durin,' 
Busy  Season  and  Dull  Season— Continued 


Classification. 


16  years  of  a^e  and  over: 
Mills  makmg— 

Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fash- 
ioned and  seamless  hosiery 
(East  and  West) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  { Pennsyl 
vania  and  New  York) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South). . 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 
silk  ( Pennsylvania) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 
silk  (West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cot- 
ton mixed  (East,  West,  and 
South) 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning 
yams  (East  and  West) 

Average 

Under  16  years  of  age: 
Mills  making- 
Full-fashioned  or  both  full-fash- 
ioned   and    seamless    hosiery 
(East  and  West) 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  ( Peimsyi- 
vania  and  New  York) '. . . 

Seamless  cotton  hosiery  (South) . . 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 
silk  ( Pennsylvania) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  cotton  and 
silk  (West) 

Seamless  hosiery  of  wool  and  cot- 
ton mixed  (East,  West,  and 
South) 

Seamless  hosiery  and  spinning 
yams  (East  and  West) 

Average 

Average,  all  ages 


Pieceworkers. 


Busy  season,    i     Dull  season. 


Time  workers. 


Busy  season.        DulUeason. 


Male. 


146.8 

14.1 
30.7 

11.3 

15.2 

34.0 
45.4 


Fe- 
male. 


358.2 

75.9 
144.9 

126.3 

114.8 

124.8 
164.1 


Male. 


38. 3       150. 6 


10.7 

1.6 
3.9 

4.0 

1.2 

.8 
2.9 


3.6 


14.6 

14.1 

5.8 

13.5 
17.1 

.0 

7.6 


11.1 


144.6 

13.6 
29.2 

10.3 

15.1 

34.0 
43.5 
37.3 


Fe- 
male. 


10.7 

1.6 
3.8 

3.6 

1.2 

.8 
2.6 


41.9 


161.7 


3.5 


40.8 


348.0 

74.3 
138.1 

122.1 

112.0 

124.8 
153.5 


145.4 


Male, 


Fe- 
male. 


52.4 

11.4 
18.9 

17.1 

18.0 

17.0 
56.1 


25.0 


14.6 

14.1 
5.3 

13.3 

17.1 

.0 
6.9 


10.9 


156.3 


9.2 

1.5 
3.2 

1.3 

.2 

.3 
3.3 


2.8 


27.8 


53.1 

10.4 
13.3 

13.5 

24.0 

4.5 
24.1 
19.6 


Male.      ^^^- 
male. 


50.4 

11.4 

18.4 

16.4 
17.0 

17.0 
53.0 


50.9 

7.8 
12.8 

12.4 

24.0 

4.5 
21.6 


7.6 

2.6 

.8 

2.0 
2.9 

.3 

.0 

2.4 


22.0 


24.0 


18  2 


9.2 

1.5 
2.9 

1.3 

.2 

.3 
3.0 


7.6 

2.fi 
.7 

L7 

2.9 

.3 
.0 


2.7 


2.3 


26.7  1        20.5 


As  shown  by  the  above  statement,  the  average  number  of  em- 
ployees per  estabhshment  of  all  ages  in  all  establishments  during 
ttie  busy  season  was:  Males,  69.7;  females,  183.7;  total,  253.4. 
The  average  m  the  dull  seasons  was:  Males,  67.5;  females,  176.S; 
total,  244.3,  a  falhiig  off  of  only  9.1  or  3.59  per  cent. 


WORKING  CONDITIONS. 


197 


Table  70  shows  the  average  number  of  the  employees  per  estab- 
lishment that  were  reported  as  working  in  the  busy  season. 

Table  70.— Average  Number  op  Employees  per  Establishment  During  Busy 
Season  in  all  Departments,  Including  Superintendents,  Foremen,  Cl^ks, 
AND  General  Help,  by  Groups  op  Establishments,  by  Sex,  and  by  Piece 
AND  Time  Workers. 


All  es- 
tablish- 
ments 
reporting, 
Groups  I 
toVlI. 

Establishments  making- 

piece  and  time  work- 
ers, by  age  and  sex. 

Full-fash- 
ioned or 
full-fash- 
ioned and 
seamless 
r  East  and 
West), 
Group  I. 

Seamless 
cotton 

[Pennsyl- 
vania 

and  New 
York), 
Group 

n. 

Seamless 
cotton 

(South), 

Group 

TTT. 

Seamless 
cotton 
and  silk 
[Pennsyl- 
vania), 
Group 
IV. 

Seamless 

cotton 

and  silk 

(West), 

Group 

v. 

Seamless 
wool  and 

cotton 
mixtures 

(East, 
West, and ' 

South), 

Group 
VI. 

Seamless 

mills 

spinning 

3'ams 

'East  and 

West), 

Group 

vn. 

Number  of  establish- 
ments  

73 

9 

16 

16 

11 

9 

4 

8 

16  years  and  over: 
rieceworkers— 
Male  

38.3 
150.6 

146.8 
358.2 

14.1 
75.9 

30.7 
144.9 

11.3 
126.3 

15.2 
114.8 

34.0 
124.8 

45.4 

Female 

164.1 

Aggregate 

188.9 

505.0 

90.0 

175.6 

137.6 

130.0 

158.8 

209.5 

Time  workers- 
Male 

25.0 
19.6 

52.4 
53.1 

11.4 
10.4 

18.9 
13.3 

17.1 
13.5 

18.0 
24.0 

17.0 
4.5 

56.1 

Female 

24.1 

Aggregate 

44.6 

105.5 

21.8 

32.2 

30.6 

42.0 

21.5 

80.2 

Total,  16  years 
and  over 

233.5 

610.5 

in.  8 

207.8 

168.2 

172.0 

180.3 

289.7 

Under  16  years: 
Pieceworkers- 
Male       

3.6 
ILl 

10.7 
14.6 

1.6 
14.1 

3.9 

5.8 

4.0 
13.5 

1.2 
17.1 

.8 

2.9 

iH^ATTIillA 

7.6 

Aggregate 

14.7 

25.3 

15.7 

9.7 

17.5 

18.3 

.8 

10.5 

Time  workers- 
Male 

2.8 
2.4 

9.2 
7.6 

1.5 
2.6 

3.2 

.8 

1.3 
2.0 

.2 
2.9 

.3 

.3 

3.3 

TrAm{).lA 

Aggregate 

Total,  under  16 
years 

5.2 

16.8 

4.1 

4.0 

3.3 

3.1 

.6 

3.3 

19.9 

42.1 

19.8 

13.7 

20.8 

21.4 

1.4 

13.8 

All  ages: 
Pieceworkers- 
Male 

41.9 
16L7 

157.5 

15.7 

34.6 
150.7 

15.3 
139.8 

16.4 
131.9 

34.8 
124.8 

48.3 

Female 

372.8  1         90.0 

17L7 

Aggregate 

Time  workers — 
Male 

203.6 

530.3 

105.7 

185.3 

155.1 

148.3 

159.6 

220.0 

27.8 
22.0 

61.6 
60.7 

12.9 
13.0 

22.1 
14.1 

18.4 
15.5 

18.2 
26.9 

17.3 

4.8 

59.4 

Female 

24.1 

Aggregate 

Total,  all  work- 
ers  

49.8 

122.3 

25.9 

36.2 

33.9 

45.1 

22.1 

83.5 

253.4 

652.6 

13L6 

221.5 

189.0 

193.4 

18L7 

303.5 

Per  cent  under  16 
vears 

7.85 

6.45 

15.05 

6.19 

11.01 

n.07 

0.77 

4.55 

198 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


The  establishments  in  Group  I,  which  includes  mills  making  f nil- 
fashioned  hosiery,  some  of  them  also  producing  seamlcsss  hosiery, 
had  a  higher  average  number  of  em])loyees  than  the  establishments 
in  any  other  group.  The  estabhshments  in  Group  VII,  which  in- 
cludes mills  that  spin  some  or  all  of  their  yarns,  show  the  next 
largest  average  number  of  employees.  Table  70  shows  that  in  the 
73  estabhshments  the  proportion  of  employees  under  16  years  of 
age  was  7.85  per  cent  of  the  whole  number.® 

The  lowest  per  cent  of  employees  under  16  years  of  age  is  0.77, 
foxmd  m  Group  VI,  which  includes  miUs  makmg  hosiery  of  wool^ 
worsted,  merino,  or  cotton  mixed.  Of  the  4  mills  in  this  group,  2 
are  in  Illinois  and  1  each  m  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland. 

The  next  lowest  per  cent  of  employees  under  16  years  of  age  is 
4.55,  found  in  Group  VII,  which  includes  miUs  that  spm  some  or  all 
of  their  yarns.  Of  the  8  miUs  in  this  group,  4  are  in  New  Hampshire 
and  1  each  in  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin. 

The  next  lowest  per  cent  of  employees  imder  16  years  of  age  is 
6.19,  foimd  in  Group  III,  which  mcludes  southern  mills  that  make 
seanoless  hosiery.  Of  the  16  mills  in  this  group,  6  are  in  Georgia, 
4  in  North  Carolma,  3  m  Maryland,  and  1  each  in  South  Carolma, 
Tennessee,  and  Missouri. 

The  next  lowest  per  cent  of  employees  under  16  years  of  age  is 
6.45,  found  in  Group  I,  which  includes  Tnilla  that  make  full-fasli- 
ioned  hosiery.  Of  the  9  mills  in  this  group,  5  are  bi  Pennsylvania, 
and  1  each  in  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  New  York,  and  Indiana. 

WAGES  AND  HOUBS  OF  LABOB. 

^  Most  of  the  labor  in  the  manufacture  of  hosiery  is  paid  for  on  the 

Eiece-price  basis.  The  employees  in  the  dye  house  are  usually  paid 
y  the  day,  because  the  piece-price  system  can  not  weU  be  applied 
to  their  work.  In  some  mills  windiiig  is  done  by  <laywork,  because 
the  employers  beUeye  that  the  winders  are  more  cai-eful  if  paid  by 
the  day  than  if  paid  by  the  hundred  poimds.  lieffinners  in  any 
occupation  are  often  paid  by  the  day  instead  of  by  the  piece  for  a 
period  of  six  months. 

Both  employers  and  employees  generally  prefer  the  piece-rate 
system,  except  for  dye-house  hands,  winders,  and  beginners.  Em- 
ployers prefer  it  because  they  beheve  it  causes  greater  efficiency  and 
mcreased  production;  also  because  it  enables  them  to  figure  costs 
easier  than  if  payment  is  made  by  the  day.  Competent  employees 
prefer  the  piece  system  because  it  makes  each  independent  and  be- 
cause each  receives  what  he  or  she  earns,  while  under  the  day-work 
system  the  shirkers  or  slow  workers  are  paid  the  same  as  the  more 
efficient  hands.  While  pieceworkers  may  not  be  so  careful  as  day- 
workers  and  therefore  make  more  seconds,  yet  the  p(?rcentage  of  sec- 
onds can  be  kept  low  by  close  supervision  and  inspection  and  by 
imposing  fines  for  imperfect  work. 

For  several  years  previous  to  1914  there  was  a  scarcity  of  labor 
in  the  hosiery  industry.  The  scarcity  has  been  so  great  that 
manufacturers  have  had  to  employ  nmch  inexperienced  help,  which 

oThis  may  be  compared  with  8.1  per  cent  shown  in  Table  11  (p.  22)  in  a  section  of  this  report  headod  "  The 
hMiery  and  knit-goods  industries,"  reproduced  from  the  Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  X,  p.  7a 
•  iLvJ  ^®'  ^^^  ^^  ^®  percentage  for  the  whole  hosiery  and  knit-goods  mduatry  in  the  United  States 
in  I9O9. 


WORKmO  CONDITIONS. 


199 


caused  loss  in  waste  and  in  inferior  production;  and  when  a  manu- 
facturer had  trained  his  new  employees  to  a  certain  efficiency,  a 
competitor  would  offer  them  more  money,  and  in  order  to  hold  tnem 
wages  had  to  be  increased.  There  has  been  a  scarcity,  especially 
of  faiitters  on  flat  machines  making  fuU-fashioned  hosiery.  These 
operatives  are  always  men,  as  the  work  is  too  heavy  for  women. 

There  has  never  been  a  sufficient  supply  of  such  knitters  since 
this  branch  of  the  industry  was  started  m  the  United  States,  and 
their  earnings  are  higher  than  those  of  any  other  employees  in  a 
hosiery  mill  and  perhaps  higher  than  those  of  employees  in  any 
other  occupation  in  any  branch  of  the  textile  industry.  Each  of 
these  knitters  pays  for  a  helper  out  of  his  own  earnings.  This 
helper  is  usually  a  boy,  and  as  a  rule  he  works  for  very  small  wages 
that  he  may  learn  what  it  is  necessary  for  him  to  know  in  order  to 
be  a  journeyman  knitter.  There  is  no  contract  work  in  the  manu- 
facture of  either  hosiery  or  knit  underwear. 

Females  constitute  a  large  proportion  of  the  employees  in  hosiery 
mills.  Because  of  this  fact,  and  possibly  also  because  many  of  the 
employees  are  foreigners  recently  immigrated  to  this  country,  few  of 
the  employees  are  unionized.  The  knitters  on  flat  machines  and  the 
boarders  in  hosiery  mills  are  all  men  and  have  labor  unions.  In 
some  locahties  the  employees  in  the  industry  are  organized  locally. 

Manufacturers  north  oi  Mason  and  Dixon's  line  complain  that  the 
rapid  development  of  the  hosiery  industry  in  the  South  is  making 
serious  inroads  on  their  business,  and  that  it  is  hard  for  them  to 
meet  the  competition  of  the  southern  miUs,  because  in  these  mills 
wages  are  lower,  working  hours  longer,  and  younger  children  employed 
than  in  northern  factories,  and  workmen's  compensation  acts  have 
not  been  passed  in  Southern  States. 

At  the  annual  convention  of  the  National  Association  of  Hosiery 
and  Underwear  Manufacturers  held  in  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  May  4  to  6, 
1915,  the  board  of  directors  made  a  report  in  part  as  follows: 

The  association  committees  and  activities  of  members  took  an  advanced  position 
during  the  year  in  combating  proposed  legislation  inimical  to  the  interests  of  industry 
and  labor  and  urging  the  enactment  of  laws  tending  toward  the  betterment  of  con- 
ditions. Every  appeal  from  individual  or  organized  manufacturers  received  prompt 
attention,  and  the  desires  expressed  in  resolutions  adopted  at  sectional  meetings 
were  carried  out  to  the  letter.  Committees  visited  Harrisburg  in  antagonism  to 
the  child-labor  bill,  which,  we  r^et,  was  passed  finally  and  awaits  the  governor's 
signature.  We  congratulate  ourselves,  however,  in  having  contributed  to  procuring 
in  the  Pennsylvania  House  of  Representatives  a  substantial  vote  by  which  the  bill 
for  the  repeal  of  the  full-crew  law  was  passed. 

We  are  advised  that  manufacturers  in  New  York  have  been  more  fortunate  than 
those  of  Pennsylvania  in  protesting  the  enactment  of  a  child-labor  law  calculated 
to  impose  unnecessary  hardship  on  manufacturers  and  diminish  the  earnings  of 
juvemles  whose  support  their  families  frequently  need. 

The  following  preamble  and  resolution  were  adopted  by  this 
convention: 

Whereas  public  opinion  is  at  present  considering  the  r^ulation  by  law  of  the  hours 
of  labor  and  working  conditions  of  children  and  women  workers,  and  we  believe 
this  to  be  a  many-sided  question  that  needs  careful  consideration:  Therefore  be  it 

Resolved,  That  it  is  the  opinion  of  the  National  Association  of  Hosiery  and  Under- 
wear Manufacturers  in  convention  assembled  that  all  legislation  affecting  manu- 
facturers who  compete  with  manufacturers  in  other  States  should  have  Federal 
rather  than  State  origin,  so  that  manufacturers  everywhere  may  be  placed  on  an 
equally  competitive  basis. 


\i 


200 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


1  J'^^^informatioii  which  follows  ro^arding  earmiiLrs  and  hnnre  ..♦ 

Labor^sT.r  r  T.1r^T^  ^^^^^  ^  bfdletiKed   ^;  the  B^ru  oi 
Labor  Statistics  of  the  Department  of  Labor  «  bureau  oi 

nf  T  of    Q."'F  f?^^^>li«>ments  from  which  to  secure  (fata  the  Bureau 
of  Labor  Statistics  undertook  to  represent  all  States  in  wh  ch  hosfer 
and  underwear  manufacturing  is  of  material  importaciceTtl  e  nfe^'l^^^ 
of  importance  being  the  number  of  employees  us  n^ported  bv  Jh 
Unitea  States  Census  of  Manufacturers.     The  number  Ksierv  and 

BureirS  Ltbort'ff^^  '"  ''''' .^'f'  ^^^^  which  age ntT7f  S 
isureau  ot  I^abor  Statistics  secured  data  regarding  wa^es  in   IQU 

tZ  .*^'.  ^r;.^"'  i  employees  in  specified  occupatic^  wW  in 
these  estabhshments  are  shown  in  Table  71.  ^  ^'^  ^^  worKing  m 

Table   71.-Hosiery   and   Knit   Underwkar   Establishments   Reported. 


States. 


Peimsylvania 

New  York 

Massachusetts... 
North  Carolina.. 

Wisconsin 

Connecticut 

Ohio 

New  Hampshire. 

Tennessee 

Illinois 

Georgia 

Michigan 

Indiana 

Virginia 

other  States 


Em- 
ployees 
rei)orted 

bv 

United 

States 

census, 

1910. 


Establishmeni  s  and  employees  for  which  data  are  shown  by 
the  Hureau  of  Labor  Statistics  for  1914.  "  "^ 


Hosierj' 


38,206 
35,950 
9,941 
5,151 
4,282 
3,340 
3,149 
3,129 
3,117 
2,913 
2,743 
2,545 
1,933 
1,715 
11,161 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


11 


Total 129,275 


a3 
3 
2 

d3 
3 

aZ 
2 
3 
3 

a2 
2 
2 


Knit  underwear, 


Em- 
plojees. 


5,837 


J  42 


b  2  H52 
015 

981 

"  r.43 

217 
1,032 
1,018 

599 

759 
^715 
1,699 

494 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


*  17, 361 


(/) 


4 
18 
1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
2 


Em- 
ployees. 


Total. 


1,554 

7,054 

c2,446 

120 

411 

9  379 

507 

673 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


MO 


203 

<366 

215 

645 


"» 15,008 


15 
18 
4 
4 
4 
3 
5 
5 
4 
3 
6 
4 
3 
4 


82 


7,391 

7,054 

5,298 

735 

1,392 

922 

724 

1,705 

1,453 

599 

962 

1,081 

1,914 

1,139 


32,369 


a  Including  1  establishment  which  makes  both  hosiery  and  underwear 
b  ^eluding  789  persons  part  of  whom  work  on  underwe^    underwear. 

d  S''1"'k  ^"^^^^  ^^^  ^'^^''^  P^^t  o^  wliom  work  on  uTde^wear 
d  Make  both  hosiery-  and  underwear.  uuuerwear. 

/  SfJof  "f  ^  persons  part  of  whom  work  on  underwear 

/  Three  establishments,  incuded  under  hnsiprv   rn^ta  wi,  i,    • 

J  Not  including  226  persons  part  o^whSm  SV    ?^Bd^^^^^^  ^°^  underwear. 

The  report  of  the  Bureau  of  Labor  Statistics  includes  e^tabli^li 
ments  engaged  primarily  in  the  mam.facture  of  Tos  S  of  u^^^^^^^^ 
m"n  nrotctrare' mUt      ''  ^"  ^"^-^^^^^^  establishS;.arht 
sTawk!^'^;^^^^^^^^       e^'''"''  ^^^""'   "^P^^  ^^^"'  -^^^^-  g-^^' 

AU  information  in  the  report  was  secured  from  pay  roEs  of  the 
various  estabhshments  by  agents  of  the  bureau.  ^ 


WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


201 


A 

l)rinc 


summary  oi  the  rates  of  wages  and  liours  of  labor  in  1914  in  the 
:jipal  occupations  of  the  hosiery  industry  is  presented  in  Table  72. 

Table  72.— Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  Rates  of  Wages  per  Hour 
AND  Full-Time   \\eekly  Earnings;  and   Per   Cent   of   Employees   H\ving 
EACH  Classified  Full-Time  Hours  and  Earning  each  Classified  Rate  of 
Wages  per  Hour  in  the  Principal  Occupations  in  1914. 


Estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Em- 
ploy- 

VrSOm 

Aver- 
age 
full- 
time 
hours 
per 
week. 

Per  cent  of  employees 
whose    full-time    hours 
per  week  were— 

Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Per  cent  of  employees 
earning  each  classi- 
fied  rate  of  wages 
per  hour. 

Aver- 
age 
full- 

Occupation  and  sex. 

Un- 
der 

54 

54 

Over 

54 
and 
un- 
der 

57 

57 
and 
un- 
der 
60 

60 
and 
over. 

Un- 
der 
9 
cts. 

9 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
cts. 

16 

18 

17 
14 
19 

15 

22 
51 

11 
15 

19 
17 

12 

and 
un- 
der 
16 
cts. 

38 

29 

32 
41 
27 

41 

32 
24 

40 
52 

25 
39 

16 
and 
un- 
der 
20 
cts. 

20 

cts. 

and 

over. 

time 
week- 

earn- 
ings. 

Inspectors  and  fold- 
ers,  hosiery,   fe- 
male  

34 

16 

37 
13 
42 

29 

39 
3 

9 
27 

38 
5 

17 

12 
25 

9 
25 

3S 
5 

40 

9 
26 

473 

305 

2,800 

56 

2,318 

309 

867 
41 

528 
464 

2,873 
527 

313 

125 

126 

306 

285 

2,390 
616 

1,007 

507 
136 

55.6 

56.3 

54.9 
54.9 
54.8 

54.8 

55.1 
54.0 

54.4 
54.3 

54.8 
54.2 

55.4 

54.2 
55.7 

51.4 
55.3 

55.5 
51.7 

55.3 

54.8 
55.9 

5 

4 

23 

9 

13 

6 

7 

24 
16 

15 

20 
12 

17 
3 

11 

7 

12 

7 

41 

3 

37 
63 
49 

67 

38 
98 

25 
50 

41 

78 

63 

47 
27 

34 
61 

30 
74 

40 

2 
21 

25 

22 

20 

9 

19 

12 

37 
2 

51 

28 

23 
22 

10 

23 
22 

49 
9 

37 
15 

29 

85 
33 

16 

44 

16 
13 
14 

9 

13 

13 

8 

4 
7 
5 

7 

5 

to.  156 

.157 

.150 
.167 
.154 

.153 

.148 
.126 

.152 
.145 

.123 
.148 

.198 

.179 
.105 

.173 
.160 

.181 
.192 

.228 

.407 
.217 

4 

13 

9 

2 

11 

4 

7 

7 

5 
3 

32 
9 

25 

20 

27 
29 
24 

27 

28 
15 

38 
25 

15 
23 

17 

21 

14 
14 
19 

13 

12 
2 

6 
4 

10 
12 

Knitters,  footers,  or 
toppers,  male 

Knitters,  footers,  or 
toppers,  female... 

Knitters,  rib,  female 

Loopers,  female 

Menders,  fine,  ho- 
siery, female 

Menders,  rough,  ho- 
siery ,  female 

Press  hands,  female . 

S8.64 

8.45 

8.24 
9.12 
8.42 

8.35 

8.11 
6.80 

Toppers,    full-fash- 
ioned hosiery,  fe- 
male  

Winders,  female 

other     employees, 
hosiery,  fema"leo... 
other    employees, 
hosiery  and  un- 
derwear, female  o  . 

5 
16 

5 

8.29 
7.89 

6.74 
8.02 

15 

1 
34 

12 
5 

Knitters,     "lady 

Un- 
der 
12 
cts. 

3 

10 

18 

19 
25 

26 

8 

12 
and 
un- 
der 
16 
cts. 

11 

26 
28 

26 

28 

22 
39 

16 
and 
un- 
der 
20 
cts. 

39 

27 
20 

24 
26 

17 

IS 

20 
and 
un- 
der 
25 
cts. 

36 

33 
10 

21 
15 

15 
13 

25 

cts. 

and 

over. 

hose,"  male 

Knitters,      "lady 
hose,"  female 

Knitters,  rib,  male.. 

Seamers,    full-fash- 
ioned hosiery,  fe- 
male  

10 

4 
2.5 

10 
5 

20 
22 

10.98 

9.67 
10.  79 

Welters,  female 

other     employees, 
maleo 

15 
14 

S 
17 

...... 

8 
3 

7 

9.41 

S.78 

Other    employees, 
hosiery  and'  un- 
derwear, male  a... 

10.04 
10.53 

Un- 
der 
16 
cts. 

18 

1 
25 

16 
and 
un- 
der 

20 
cts. 

20 
and 
un- 
der 

25 
cts. 

25 
and 
un- 
der 

30 
cts. 

30 

Cts. 

and 

over. 

Boarders,  male 

Knitters,  full-fash- 
ioned   hosiery, 
male 

21 

3 
21 

25 

5 
21 

17 

11 
19 

19 

SO 
14 

12.53 

22.31 
12.07 

Pressers,  male 

26 

10 

a"  Other  employees  •'  include  all  occupations  in  the  mills  not  specified  separately  in  the  tal)le     Certain 
S  the°tabfe  ^^'^'"^'  underwear,  and  a  few  hosiery  and  underwear,  which  distinctions  are  preserved 


r 


it 


* 


x> 


202 


THE   HOSIEBY  INDUSTRY. 


The  rates  of  wages  per  hour  appear!  iig  in  the  tables  include  the 
wages  ot  time  workers  and  the  earnings  of  pieceworkers.  All  time 
rates  by  the  day  or  week  have  been  reduced  to  rates  per  hour,  and 
the  earnings  of  pieceworkers  or  of  persons  working  at  both  time  and 
piece  rates  have  been  reduced  to  rates  per  hour  by  dividing  the  eam- 
mgs  by  the  hours  worked.  Separation  of  time  and  piece  workers  was 
made  to  show  what  difference  there  might  be  in  the  wagers  of  these  two 
classes  of  workers  m  the  several  occu])ations.  Where  there  was  no 
record  regularly  kept  m  the  factory  of  th(i  actual  time  worked  by  pic^ce- 
workers  the  firms,  at  the  request  of  the  bureau,  kept  a  special  record 
for  the  pay  period  taken,  making  it  possible  to  present  classified  rates. 

1  he  averages  of  full-time  hours  per  week,  rates  of  wagps  per  hour,  and 
fuU-time  weekly  earmngs  are  computed  by  adding  the  data  for  each 
mdiyidual  employee  and  dividing  the  total  by  the  number  of 
eniployees. 

The  full-time  hours  of  labor  per  week  shown  in  the  tables  are  the 
reguhxr  hours  of  work  of  the  occupations  under  normal  conditions  in 
the  estabhshments.  The  figures  given  show  the  avc^rage  full-time 
hours  per  week  of  the  employees  in  each  occupation  and  the  number 
ot  employees  whose  full-time  came  withhi  specific.!  classification 
limits.  Ihe  working  time  is  the  hours  on  duty,  inclu.ling  inter\^als 
of  waiting  for  work.  The  fuU-time  hours  per  week  do  not  in  any 
way  indicate  the  extent  of  unemployment.  Employees  may  work 
overtime,  broken  time,  or  be  laid  off,  or  a  temporary  reduction  may 
be  made  m  working  hours  without  such  (change  affecting  the  full-time 
hours  per  week  as  here  presented. 

The  full-time  weekly  earnings  tabulated  are  the  earnings  per  week 
of  employees  workmg  full  time,  or  the  earning  on  broken  time  re- 
duced to  equivalent  earnings  for  a  fuU  week. 

In  this  table  it  is  seen  that  in  1914  the  average  full-time  weekly 
earmngs  of  males  engaged  in  the  hosiery  industry,  represented  bv  8 
occupations,  varied  from  $22.31  for  knitters,  full-fashioned  hosiery, 
to  $8.45  for  knitters,  footei-s,  or  toppers. 

The  average  full-time  weekly  earnings  of  females  in  1914,  repre- 
sented by  14  occupations,  varied  from  $9.67  for  knitters,  '4adv  hose  " 
to  $6.74  for ''other  employees."  ' 

Table  73  shows  the  average  full-time  iiours  per  week,  and  average 
and  classified  rates  of  wages  per  hour,  for  pieceworkers  and  time 
workers  in  the  establishments  in  each  State  from  which  data  wore 
secured,  in  1914. 


WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


203 


Table  73.— Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  am>  Vverage  and  Classified 
Rates  of  Wages  ver  Hour,  for  Pieceworkers  and  Time  Workers,  by  States, 
1914. 

boarders,  HOSIERY:  MALE. 


Piece- 
workers 
or  time 

work- 
ers. 

Es- 
tab- 
lish- 
m'ts. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Av. 

fuU- 

time 

hrs. 

per 

w'k. 

Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  hour. 

States. 

Un- 
der 
5 
cts. 

5 
and 
un- 
der 

7 
cts. 

ancf 
un- 
der 
8 
cts. 

8 
and 
un- 
der 

9 
cts. 

3 
1 
3 

9 

and 
un- 
der 
10 
cts. 

.... 

1 

10 

and 
un- 
der 
12 
cts. 

4 
2 
2 
1 

1 

2 

1 

and 
un- 
der 
14 
cts. 

10 
4 
6 
3 

3 
4 

14     16 

and  and 
un-  un- 
der !  der 
16     18 
cts.  cts. 

18 
and 

un- 
der 

20 
cts. 

13 

10 

8 

37 

10 

6 

15 

20 

and 
un- 
der 
25 
cts. 

10 
10 
24 
86 
18 

14 

59 
3 

and 
un- 
der 
30 
cts. 

2 

2 
29 
32 

7 

30 

cts. 

and 

over. 

Georgia 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Massachusetts. 
New    Hamp- 
shire. 
North  Carolina 

Piece.. 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 

...do... 

...do.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 

do 

3 
2 
2 
3 
3 

3 

69 

$0,165 

18'      9 
3i      9 
1       3 

21     27 
6       3 

41  56.1 
106  55.0 
2231  54.0 

45   f^  c\ 

.181 
.246 
.214 
.208 

28 

15 

. . .. 

53 

59.4 

.177 

3 

2 

8 

2 
2 

11 

7 

4 



86 
5 

— ' — 

Pennsylvania. 

9 
3 

315 
10 

64.2 

54.7 

.285 
.229 

1 

141 

i 

i 

10 

325 

54.2 

.283 

i 

1 

4 

4 

7 

15 

62;    91 

141 

4 

Tennessee 

O'           TC 

57.9 
57.9 

.153 
.126 

....i      1 

1 
1 

A 

3 

15 

14 
2 

14 

10 

10 

1 

4\} 

3 

i 

1 

9 

TO 

57.9 

.152 



1 

2 

4       4 

3 

15 

16 

14 

10 

10 

Z                f  i7 



Virginia 

2!       42 

.W  fi 

170 

1.-.. 

1 

5 

9 

12 

5 

9 

.... 

. . . . 

Wisconsin 

_= 1 

2i       47 

55.0 
55  0 

.278 
Sf>9 

•  *  «  • 

2 

12     15 

18 

Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 

48 

55.0 

.279 

12 

1     15 

19 

1 r-^ 

^— — 

Other  States . . 

7 
2 

55 
11 

54.8 
54.5 

.217 
.173 

1 

2 

2 
2 

1 
4 

6 
1 

10 

20 
4 

9 

4 

« 

t       (\fi 

54.8 

.209 

1 

2 

4 

5 

7 

10 

24 

9 

4 

1 

1 

Grand  total. 

381,072 
7         9fi 

55.3 
55.  C 

.228 
.195 



1 

2 

1 

15 

9 

19 

52 
2 

83 
8 

101 
1 

102 

126 
126 

272 

7 

186 
5 

206 
1 

"" 

401,097 

55.3 

.228 



1 

3 

15 

9 

19 

54 

91 

279 

191 

207 

INSPECTORS  AND  FOLDERS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Connecticut... 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
...do... 
...do... 

...do.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

1 

1 

30 
1 

55  0 

10  142 

5 

ll 

10 

7 

6 

1 

1 

55.0 

.100 

2 

31 

55.0 

.141 

6     10 

7 

6 

1 

1 

Georgia 

2 
2 

44 
8 

59.4 
56.3 

.120 
.109 

3 

2 



20       8 
6       2 

8 

3 

3 

52 

58.9 

.118 

3 

2 



26     10 

8 

3 

Indiana 

Massachusetts. 
North  Carolina 

2 
3 
3 

45 

101 

29 

55.0 
54.0 
59.9 

.141 
.181 
.146 

3 
1 

13       8 
3       8 
3       7 

9 
17 
10 

5 
14 

4 

5 

23 

3 

2 

35 

1 

1 

Pennsylvania. 

6 
3 

69 
30 

54.0 
53.9 

.190 
.117 

1 
7 

1 
1 

2 
16 

13 
2 

13 

20 
1 

13 
2 

4 

2 

1 

7 

99 

54.0 

57.9 
57.9 

.168 

.133 
.119 

8 

1 

1 

1 

2     18 

15 

8 

1 

13 
5 

21 

15 

4 

2 

Tennessee 

2 
2 

38 
5 

8 

1 

16 
2 

2 

43 

57.9 

.132 

2 

9 

18 

9 

5 

Other  States . . 

11 

3 

62 
11 

55.5 
54.5 

.171 
.134 

1 

1 

9 
2 

9 
4 

8 
3 

5 

1 

8 
1 

17 

4 

12 

73 

55.3 

.166 

1 

1 



11 

13 

11 

6 

9 

17 

4 



Grand  total. 

.30 
11 

34 

418 
55 

473 

55.7 
54.7 

.161 
.119 

1 
7 

5 
2 

7 

4 

4 

62 
11 

68!    80 
24!       6 

55 
1 

60 
2 

62 

69 
2 

71 

8 

2 

55.6 

.156 



8 

4 

4 

73 

92 

86     56 

8 

2 

1         1 


204 


THE   HOSIERY  INDTSTRY. 


Table  73.— Average  Full-Time  Hour.s  peei  Week,  and  Average  and  Classified 
Rates  of  Wages  per  Hour,  for  Pieceworkers  and  Time  Workers,  bv  States, 
1914— Continued.  ' 


KNITTERS,   1 

POOTKRS, 

OR 

TOPPERS, 

HOSIERY: 

malk. 

Piece- 
workers 
or  time 

work- 
ers. 

Es- 
tab- 
lish- 
m'ts. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Av. 
full- 
time 
hrs. 
per 
w'k. 

Aver- 
age 

rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wage«  per  hour. 

States. 

Un- 
der 
5 

cts. 

5 

and 
un- 
der 

7 
cts. 

7 
and 
un- 
der 

8 
cts. 

8 
and 
un- 
d.T 

9 
cts. 

2 

9 
and 
un- 
der 

10 
cts. 

10 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
cts. 

12 

and 
un- 
der 
14 
cts. 

14 
and 
un- 
der 

16 
cts. 

6 

8 

16 
and 
un- 
der 

18 

cts. 

18 
and 
un- 
der 

20 
cts. 

20     25 
and  and 
un-|  un- 
der der 

25    30 
cts.  cts. 

:k) 

cts. 

and 

over. 

Georgia 

Piece.. 
...do.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

3 
3 

42 
66 

58.9 
55.0 

$0,121 
.186 

5 

3 

4 
1 

6 

1 

9 
6 

4 
lA 

6 

3 
11 

New    Hamp- 

18 

4 

1 

shire. 

Tennessee 

2 

1 

77 
2 

58.0 
58.0 

.119 
.116 

— 

10 

4 

13 

15 

1 

12 

1 

10 

3 

3 

2 

79 

58.0 

.119 

— 

10 

4 

-~= 

13 

16 

13 

10 

7 

3 

2 

3 

.... 

Virginia 

2 

33 

57.8 

.143 

— 

3 

3 

3 

2 

6 

5 

6 

2 

Other  States . . 

6 
1 

SL' 
3 

86 

53.9 
54.0 

.172 
.142 

:::: 

3 

3 

1 
1 

8 

7 

1 

16 

9 

20 

1 

8 

6 

53.9 

.171 



3 

3 

. . . . 

2 

8 

8 

16 

7 
32 

i'l 

9 

21 

8 

Grand  total . 

16 

2 

300 
5 

56.3 
55.6 

.151 
.132 

21 

13 

5 

22 
1 

32 

1 

40 
2 

45 


28 

47 

1 

14 
14 

1 

.... 

16 

305 

56.3 

.151 

21 

13 

5 

23 

33 

42 

45 

28 

48 

1 

KNITTERS,  FOOTERS,  OR 

TOPPERS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 

Connecticut... 

Piece.. 
...do.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
...do.. 

2 
3 

134 
120 

55.0 
57.4 

$0,157 
.114 

2 
12 

3 
5 

is 

4 
12 

5 
33 

19 
21 

36 
10 

31 

7 

19 
5 

15 
2 

Georgia 



Illinois 

3 

1 

173 

1 

53.8 
48.0 

.112 
.100 

18 

10 

12 

23 

39 
1 

39 

22 

6 

4 

-  .  .  - 

. . .  - 

3 

174 

53.8 

.112 

18 

10 

12 

2 

23 

40 

39 

22 

M 

4 

.  -  -  . 

.... 

Massachusects. 

3 

1 

17^ 
9 

54.0 
54.0 

.156 
.104 

1 

1 


4 

7 

16 

23 
1 

45 

1 

45 

4 

1 

3 

187 

54.0 

.153 

1 

1 

2 

11 

16 

24 

46 

36 

11 

2 

13 

45 
6 

4 

1 

■■ -II 

Michigan 

2 
1 

60 
2 

53.5 
52.5 

.182 
.171 

5 

10 

6 

19 

3 

6 
14 

*  '  '  " 

-  -  -  - 

2 

62 

53.5 

.182 

5 

10 

ft 

19 

3 

■ 

xu, 

..... 

New    Hamp- 
shire. 

3 

1 

145 
6 

55.0 
55.0 

.140 
.154 

6 



2 

8 

24 

38 
2 

26 

20 
4 

24 

6 

1 



3 

151 

55.0 

.141 

6 



2 

8 

24 

40 

26 

14 

6 

1 

-  »  •  -  • 

North  Carolina 

3 
3 

129 

65 

59.1 
52.2 

.099 
.138 

23 

15 

19 
1 

9 
2 

30 
10 

22 
19 

8 
21 

3 

9 

2(W 

' 

Ohio 

3 

209 

.... 

.... 

Pennsylvania . 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
...do.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total 

8 
2 

1,235 
9 

53.9 
54.0 

.167 
.166 

11 

5 

18 

18 

9 
3 

36 

108 

156 

2 

202 
5 

2«i0 
2 

21 

1 

8 

1,244 

53.9 

.167 

11 

5 

36 

108 

158 

207 

209 

262 

21 

1 

Tennessee 

Virginia 

2 
2 

234 

68 

57.9 
57.6 

.147 
.112 



11 
12 

8 
4 

12 
5 

28 
17 

35 
13 

36 
5 

41 
5 

25 
4 

23 

6 

Wisconsin 

2 
1 

115 

2 

55.0 
55.0 

164 
.109 

4 

3 

1 

14 

27 

1 

11 

11 

14 

28 

3 







2 

117 

55. 0 

.163 

4 
li 

97 

4 

14 

28 

11 

11 

14 

28 

3 

1 
52 

Other  States . . 

1 

115|  55.0 

.136 

5 

22 

25 

19 

12 

11 
359 

359 

~5 

1 

—  — 

Grand  total . 

37 

7 

2,771   54.9 
29  54.0 

.151 
.138 

96 

123 

8 

351 
1 

447 
6 

447 
6 

400 

6 

4()() 

362 
2 

36 

1 

37 

2,800 

54.9 

.150 



96 

52 

97 

131 

352 

453 

453 

■Mi 

36 

1 

WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


205 


Table  73. — Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  and  Average  and  Classified 
Rates  of  Wages  per  Hour,  for  Pieceworkers  and  Time  Workers,  by  States, 
1914 — Continued. 

KNITTERS,  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY:  MALE. 


Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  hoiu". 

Piece- 
workers 

Es- 
tab- 
lish- 
m'ts. 

Em- 

Av. 
full- 

Aver- 
age 
rate 

5      7 

8      9      10 

1 

12     14 

16 

! 

IS  !  20 

25 

States. 

or  time 
work- 

ploy- 
ees. 

time 
hrs. 

of 

wages 

Un- 
der 

and 
un- 

and 
un- 

and I  and  and 
un-[  un-i  un- 

and and 
un-  un- 

and 
un- 

and 
un- 

and 
un- 

and   30 

un-  cts. 

ers. 

per 
w'k. 

per 

5 

der 

der 

der 

der  der 

der  der 

der 

der 

der 

der  and 

hour. 

cts. 

7 

8 

9 

10  j  12 

14 

16 

IS 

20 

25 

30  over 

2 

4 

.55.0 
54.6 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

cts. 

3 
6 

cts. 

cts. 

Indiana 

Piece., 
do 

234 

229 

$0,394 

12 
15 

27 
19 

192 

Pennsvlvania 

.424 

.... 

1 

2 

6 

180 

Other  States 

...do... 
Piece.. 

3 

44 

55.0 

..384 

1 

10 

33 

Total    . 

9 

507 

54.8 

.407 

1 

2 

i 

9 

27 

56 

405 

' 

KNITTERS,  "LADY  HOSE":  MALE. 


Massachusetts . 

l*iece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

2 
1 

146 
1 

54.0 
54.0 

$0,192 
.196 

3 

1 

5 

7 

27 

52 
1 

■ 

42 

9 

2 

147 

54.0 

.192 

3 

1 

5 

7 

27 

53 

42 

9 

New    Hamp- 
shire. 

2 

20 

55.0 

.208 

2 

3 

14 

1 

Pennsylvania. 

2 

1 

50 

1 

54.0 
54.0 

.214 
.255 

1 



3 

4 

5 

32 

5 
1 

2 

51 

54.0 

.214 

1 



3 

4 

5 

32 

6 

Other  States 

11 
2 

11 

82 
13 

58.3 
59.3 

.192 
.219 

4 

1 

8 

1 

10 

16 
1 

11 
1 

22 
4 

9 
3 

2 

2 

-  -  •  - 

95 

58.4 

.196 

5 

9 

10 

17 

12 

26 

12 

4 

Grand  total. 

17 

4 

298 
15 

55.3 
58.6 

.197 
.220 

3 

6 
1 

13 

1 

20 

49 
1 

71 
2 

110 

4 

24 
4 

2 

2 

17 

313 

55.4 

.198 

3 

7 

14 

20 

50 

'     73 

114 

1 

28 

4 

■•"T" 

KNITTERS,  "LADY  HOSE":  FEMALE. 


Pennsvlvania . 

Piece.. 
...do... 

Piece.. 
Time. . 

TotaJ. 

Piece.. 
Time. . 

Total. 

6 
2 

63 
19 

53.9 
5.5.0 

$0,201 
.164 

2 
4 

"3 

6 
2 

10 
4 

7 
2 

33 

5 

Wi'V»nTi«sin 

Other  States 

4 
1 

40 
3 

54.2 
54.0 

.154 
.135 

1 
2 

4 

9 

12 

5 

6 



4 

43 

54.2 

.153 

3 

4 

9 

12 

5 

6 

^ 

Grand  total 

12 
1 

122 
3 

54.2 
54.0 

.180 
.135 

1 
2 

10 

12 

20 

19 

15 

40 

1 

5 

12 

125 

54.2 

,179 

3 

10 

12 

20 

19 

15 

" 

5 

KNITTERS,  RIB,  HOSIERY:  MALE. 


rirraTiH  tritnl 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

11 
18 

59 
67 

55.9 
55.5 

$0,241 
.155 

1 

1 

2 
18 

2 
14 

11 

8 

3 
12 

5 
5 

8 
4 

9 
3 

17 

1 

0 

25 

126 

55.7 

.195 

1 

1 

1 

20 

16 

19 

15 

10 

12 

12 

19 

KNITTERS,  RIB,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Grand  total... 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

8 
7 

37 
19 

.55.0 
54.6 

$0,188 
.126 



,' 

1 

1 

6 

1 

9 

9 
4 

^ 

5     12 

i 



i 

13 

56 

54.9 

.167 



1  .... 

1 

7 

10 

13 

3 

5     12 

4 

3 


•i 

i 


206 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


Table  73.— Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  and  Average  and  Classified 
Kates  of  Wages  per  Hour,  for  Pieceworkers  and  Time  Workers,  by  States 
1914— Continued.  ' 

LOOPERS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Piece- 
workers 
or  time 

work- 
ers. 

Es- 
tab- 
lish- 
m'ts. 

2 
3 
3 
2 
3 

Em- 
ploy- 

AAO 

Av. 
full- 
time 
hrs. 
per 
w'k. 

Aver- 
age 

rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  hour. 

States. 

Un- 
der 
5 
cts. 

5 
and 
un- 
der 

7 
cts. 

7 
and 
un- 
der 

8 
cts. 

s 
and 
un- 
der 

9 
cts. 

9 

and 
un- 
der 

10 
cts. 

10 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
cts. 

12 
and 
un- 
der 

14 
cts. 

14 
and 
un- 
der 

16 
cts. 

6 
11 
17 

18 
66 

16 

and 
un- 
der 

IS 

cts. 

18     20 
and  and 
«n-  un- 
der der 

20     25 
cts.  cts. 

25 
and 
un- 
der 

30 
cts. 

30 

cts. 

and 

over. 

Connecticut... 

Piece. . 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 

. .  .do . . 

5s 
111 
110 
119 
431 

55. 0  $0. 182 

4 

16 
17 
23 
52 

7 
12 
12 

18 
73 

8 
12 
11 

17 

59 

4 
4 

14 

9 

3 

10 

51 

17 

10 

2 

13 

57 

2 
2 

Georgia 

Illinois 

58.9 
54.9 
55.0 
54.0 

.133 
.114 
.141 
.150 

— 

12 
11 

8 
11 

8 
13 

7 

9 

3 

18 

11 
17 

8 
23 

1 

Indiana 

Massachusetts 

1 

7 

:::: 

Michigan 

3 

1 

82 
1 

53.9 
52.5 

.169 
.152 

— 

1 

2 

4 

4 

•  >  >  « 

8 

21 

10 
1 

4 

17 

6 

Time. . 

Total. 

Piece.. 

...do... 
-..do... 

...do.. 
Time. . 

Total. 

Piece. . 
...do... 
...do... 

...do.. 
Time. . 

Total. 

1 

3 

3 

3 
3 

8;i 

147 

84 
27 

53.9 

55.0 

58.8 
52.6 

63,9 
54.0 

.169 

— 

1 

2 

4 

4 

8 

21 

11 

16 

7 
5 

4 

17 

6 

1 

New  Hamp- 
shire. 
North  Carolina 
Ohio 

.171 

.113 
.150 

.170 
.155 

— 

2 
6 

3 

4 

8 

18 

3 
5 

4 

14 
1 

14 

24 

8 

14 

9 

1 

15 

7 

7 

111 
1 

26 

4 
2 

113 
1 

44 
'3 

5 

Pennsylvania. 

11 
2 

81H 
4 

22 

26 

79 

99 
2 

126 

159 

43 

19 

11 

822 

53.9 

.170 

— 

3 

18 

22 

26 

79 

101 

126 

112 

:\ 

H 
22 

2H4 
1 

114 

159 

43 

19 

Tennessee 

Virginia 

2 
2 
2 

124 

61 

141 

57.9 
57.7 
53.6 

.125 
.123 
.158 

— 

15 
3 
3 

8 
4 
3 

7 
4 
7 

9 

4 

10 

28 
18 
20 

16 
10 
15 

17 

6 
14 

12 

3 

14 

8 

1 

29 



1 

Wisconsin 

1 

3 

Grand  total. 

42 
3 

2,313 
5 

54.8 
53.7 

.154 
.155 

— 

68 

87 

89 

131 

311 

307 
2 

319 
1 

320 

265 
1 

360 

67 

>  >  •  ■ 

25 

42 

2,318 

54.8 

.154 

— 

68 

87 

89 

131 

311 

309 

2^ 

266 

360 

67 

25 

MENDERS,  FINE,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Massachusetts 

Piece. . 
Time. . 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

3 
2 

103 
2 

54.0 
54.0 

$0,149 
.095 

1 

1 

2 

10 
1 

23 

24 

29 

11 

2 

1 

. . . . 

.... 

3 

105 

54.0 

.148 

1 

2 

.    . . 

2 

11 

23 

24 

29 

11 
15 

2 

.... 

' 

Pennsylvania . 

8 
3 

87 
5 

54.0 
53.9 

.179 
.200 

3 

7 
1 

7 

14 

~i;4 

24 
4 

2 

2 

i;i 

.... 

8 

14 
5 

92 

84 
28 

54.0 

57.1 
54.2 

.180 

.137 
.126 

— 

1 

■    ■  - 

3 

3 
3 

8 

16 

1 

7 

19 
19 

14 

17 
3 

15 

28 

2 

2 

Other  States.. 

4 

4 

7 
2 

7 

5 

1 



18 

112 

56.4 

.135 

1 

4 

4 

6 

17 

38 

20 

55 
3 

{* 

7 

5 

1 

Grand  total . 

25 
10 

274 
35 

54.9 
54.1 

.155 
.135 

2 

5 

1 

4 

4 

8 
3 

33 
3 

49 
19 

49 
2 

51 

33 

31 
4 

3 

2 

■      •  •  " 

29 

309 

54.8 

.153 

....i      2 

1 

6 

11 

36 

68 

58 

33 

35 

3 

2 

WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


207 


Table  73.— Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  and  Average  and  (Yassified 
m4-c''onS^^^^^^^^  ^^"^  ^'''''''  ^^"^  Pieceworkers  Ind  Time  Workers,  by  StI™ 

MENDERS,  ROUGH,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Piece-    p, 
workers  ^^? 
or  time  JgJ" 

Em 

ploy 

ees. 

Av.  Aver 
full-    age 

-  time  rate 

-  hrs.      of 
per  wag« 
w'k.    per 

hour 

Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  hour. 

States. 

Un 
5  der 
5 

.  cts 

5 
-  anc 
un 
der 

.    7 
cts 

7 
1  and 
-  un- 
der 

8 
.  cts 

8  9 

I  and, and 

■  un-i  un 

der  der 

9  1  10 
cts.  cts 

10 

1  and 

-  un 

der 

12 

cts 

1 

8 
11 

12     14 

I  and  anc 
-  un-  un 

der  der 
i  14     16 

cts.  cts 

16     18     20     25 

i  and  and  and  anc 

-i  un-|  un-i  un-  un 

der  der  der  der 

18     20     25    30 
.  cts.  cts.  cts.  cts, 

23       4       2.... 
2 

1    30 
-  cts. 
and 
ovet 

• 

Connecticut... 

Piece.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece. . 
Time-. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece. . 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

3 

4S 

i  55.0 

$0. 161 

I     IC 
'     17 

Georgia 

2 

1 

71 
11 

59.0 
55.0 

.lie 

.IOC 



e 

>      1 

IC 

1     10 

•  •  «  . 

3 

82 

58.5 

.114 

t 

>      1 

IC 

10 

19 

17 

17 

2 

21 
5 

10 
6 

10 
1 



Indiana 

2 
1 

112 
13 

55.0 
55.0 

.145 
.172 

...» 



2 

€ 

8 

15 

22 

1 

18 

2 

125 

55.0 

.147 

— 

. . . . 

2 

6 

8 

15 

18 
1 

23 

18 

26 

16 

11 

1 

Massachusetts. 

3 
2 

115 
2 

54.0 
54.0 

.140 
.126 

— 

4 

1 

2 

4 

26 

27 

1 

17 

15 



3 

117 

54.0 

,140 

—r— 

4 

1 

2 

4 

19 

26 

28 

17 

15 

1 
7 

...  - 

Michigan 

2 
1 

37 

3 

53.9 
52.5 

.187 
.158 

3 

1 

1 

4 
1 

10 

9 

1 

2 



— 







1 

2 

40 

53.8 

.184 



— 



. . . . 

.... 

3 

2 

5 

10 

10 

7 

2 

1 

New    Hamp- 
shire. 

3 

60 

55.0 

.159 



1 

1 

1 

5 

5 

8 

27 

17 
5 

10 

24 
3 

2 

67 

. 

Pennsylvania. 

8 
3 

183 
23 

54.0 
53.6 

.171 
.151 

1 

:::; 

3 

6 

37 
1 

11 

14 

7 

1 

2 

9 

206 

53.9 
58.0 

.169 



1 



3 

6 

38 

18 

21 

22 

27 

67 

1 

2 

Tennessee 

2 

41 

.109 



4 

4 

3 

9 
4 

7 

8 

3 

1 
20 

2 

Wisconsin 

2 

1 

75 
2 

55.0 
55.0 

.149 
.123 

7 
1 

13 
1 

24 

4 

3 



— 





2 

77 

55.0 

.148 

— 

. . . . 

4 

8 

14 

24 

20 

4 

3 
4 

Other  States.. 

9 

1 

64 

7 

56.4 
53.5 

.123 
.113 



1 

5 

6 

6 

19 

6 

12 

7 
1 

1 

2 

1 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

10 

71 

56.1 

.122 

1 

16 

5 

6 

6 

25 

12 

123 
10 

133 

8 

132 
10 

1 

2 

4 

1 

Grand  total . 

36 
10 

806 
61 

55.2 
54.1 

.148 
.141  . 

14 

31 

48 

120 
20 

140 

139 
10 

80     96 
10       1 

4 
4 

3 

... 

16 

14 

31 

48 

39 

867 

55.1 

.148. 

142 

149 

90 

97 

3 

PRESSERS.  HOSIERY:  MALE. 

Grand  total. .. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total 

21 

6 

26 

110 
26 

56.2 
54.8 

$0,232 
.153 

2 

5 
2 

5 
9 

6 
5 

13 
5 

9 
1 

25 
4 

26 





.... 

.  >  •  • 

19 

136 

55.9 

.217 

2 

7 

14 

11 

18 

10 

29 

26 

19 

PRESS  HANDS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Total. 


Piece. . 


41 


54.0 


$0,126 


19 


SEAMERS, 

FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 

Indiana 

Piece.. 
..do — 
..do.... 

Piece.. 

2 
4 
3 

128 

156 

22 

55.0 
53.9 
55.0 

$0,152 
.193 
.155 

6 

4 
2 
1 

5 

7 
1 

17 

10 

3 

15 

16 

2 

21 

24 

3 

22 

17 

3 

20 
9 
3 

18 

40 

5 

Pennsylvania. 

23 

23 

.  •  -  . 

Other  States.. 

1 

8 

Total... 

9 

306 

54.4 

.173 

7 

7 

13 

30 

33 

48 

42 

32 

63 

8 

t 


i 


:\ 


ill 


208 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


Table  73.— Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  and  Average  and  Classified 
Rates  of  Wages  per  Hour,  for  Pieceworkers  and  Time  Workers,  by  States 
1914 — Continued.  ' 

TOPPERS.  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Piece- 
workers 
or  time 
work- 
ers. 

Es- 
tab- 
lish- 
m'ts. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Av. 
full- 
time 
hrs. 
per 
w'k. 

Aver- 
age 

rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Employees  eiirning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  liour. 

States. 

Un- 
der 
5 
cts. 

5 
and 
un- 
der 

7 
cts. 

2 

7  8 
and  and 
un-  un- 
der (ier 

8  9 

cts.  cts. 

1 

9 
and 
un- 
der 

10 
cts. 

10 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
cts. 

12 
and 
un- 
der 

14 
cts. 

42 

14 
and 
un- 
der 

16 
cts. 

52 

82 

16 

and 
un- 
der 
18 
cts. 

18 
and 
un- 
der 

20 
cts. 

20     25 
and  and 
un-  un- 
der der 

25     30 
cts.  cts. 

18       3 

30 

cts. 

and 

over. 

Pennsylvania. 

Piece. . 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total 

4 

259 

53.9 

$0,157 

1 

4 

8 

24 

61 
60 

44 
34 

Other  States. . 

5 
1 

268 
1 

54.9 
55.0 

.148 
.135 

— 

3 

14 

4 

4 

22 

35 
1 

9 

1 

.... 

Grand  total 

5 

269 

54.9 

.148 

— 

3 

14 

4 

4 

22 

36 

82 

60 
121 

34 

78 

9 
27 

1 



4 

9 

1 

527 
1 

54.4 
55.0 

.152 
.135 

— 

5 

15 

8 

12 

46 

1 

134 

'  • 

27 

4 

9 

528 

54.4 

.152 

5 

15 

8 

12 

46 

78 



121 

78 

I 


WELTERS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


WINDERS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Georgia 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 

Piece.. 
Time.- 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

3 
1 

28 
1 

58.7 
55.0 

$0. 134 
.100 

2 

6 

9 

7 

2 

1 

1 

• 

.... 

.... 

" 

'  *  •  " 

3 

29 

58.6 

.133 

. . . . 





2 

9 

7 

2 

1       1 

Massachusetts. 

3 

109 

54.0 

.144 

2 

5 

6 

21 

22 

13 

~ii 

21 

8 

.... 



1 

.... 

Pennsylvania. 

6 

1 

69 

1 

54.0 
54.0 

54.0 

.203 
.200 

1 

6 

1 

10 

1 7       9Q 

6 

4 

1 



.... 

6 

70 

.203 

1 

6 

1 

10 

17 

24 

6 

4 

Other  States. . 

13 

1 

76 

1 

57.2 
55.0 

.152 
.091 



3 

1 
. . . . 

2 

8 
1 

12 

11 

■  •  •  • 

12 

8 

5 

10 

1 

3 

13 

77 

57.2 

.151 

3 

1 

2 

9 

12 

11 

12 

8 

5 

10 

1 

3 

Grand  total. 

25 
3 

282 
3 

55.3 
54.7 

.160 
.130 



3 

3 

7 

17 
1 

40 

1 

48     33 

"  1  "  *  "  ' 

~31 

44 

42 
1 

7 

7 

25 

285 

55.3 

.160 



3 

3 

7 

18 

41 

48 

33 

31 

44 

43 

7 

7 

Indiana 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece., 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

2 

1 

59 
12 

5.5,0 

$0,156 

...      i 

3 

12 
1 

20 
6 

16 
5 

5 

3 

55.0 

.152 

....!.... 

-  .  -  - 

2 

71 

55.0 

.155 





....!.... 

— 

13 

26 

21 

5 

3 

Massai'husetts. 

2 
1 

62 

7 

54.0 
54.0 

.150 
.101 

10 
3 

~10 

19 

15 

7 

1 



4 

"   ■ 

.... 

2 

69 

54.0 

.145 



....!.... 

4 

13 

10 

19 

15 

7 

1 

New    Hamp- 

3 
1 

38 

7 

55.0 
55.0 

.160 
.121 

1 

4 

5 
7 

12!      5 

1 
1 

6 

5 

shire. 

■ 

.  -  .  . 

3 

45 

55.0 

.154 

1 

4 

12 

12 

5 
17 

6 

5 

.... 

Pennsylvania. 

5 

7 

75 
149 

54.0 
53.9 

.157!.... 
.146.... 

2 
3 

.  .. 

4 
1 

4 
5 

9 
38 

20 
74 

14 

9 

6 
2 

1 

10 

224 

53.9 

.150.... 

5 

5 

9 

47 

94 

32 

23 

8 

1 

Other  States.. 

6 
6 

21 
34 

55.4 
53.9 

.126 
.099 



2 

2 
2 

'5 

1 

16 

6 

8 

2 
2 

4 
1 

2 

. . . . 
. . . . 

2 

.  .  .  . 

10 

55 

64.5 

.109 



2 

4 

5 

17 

14 

4 

5 

2 

. . . . 

2 

.  -  -  - 

Grand  total . 

18 
16 

255 
209 

464 

54.5 
54.0 

.1.53 
.136 



4 
3 

7 

2 
2 

4 

"5 
5 

6 
21 

27 
16 

38 

48 

86 

75     ."B 
81     22 

32     17 
9       2 

1 

27 

54.3 

.145 



27 

43 

156 

75 

41 

19 

1 

.  ■  •  •  • 

WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


209 


lED 


^^^':V^~i7^''''''^  Full-time  Hours  per  Week,  and  Average  and  Cia^.uie 
WU-cJnnrtuel  "^  ^^'^^'  '^^  ^'^'^^^^^^^^  ^nb  Time  Workehs!  b^^^Ites; 

OTHER  EMPLOYEES,  HOSIERY:  MALE. 


Es- 

tab- I  1 
lish-  ploy- 


Em- 


m'ts, 


ees. 


Av. 

full 

time 

hrs. 

per 

w'k 


Georgia 


Illinois. 


Indiana 


Massachusetts. 


Michigan 


New    Hamp- 
shire. 


North  Carolina 


Ohio. 


Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece. . 
Time. . 

Total. 


62 
ION 


170 


3 

3 


29 
50 


58.0 
58. 9 


Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 


Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  v  aires  per  hour. 


Un- 
der 
5 
cts. 


58.6 


79 


2 

1 


164 
90 


2     254 


87 
184 


271 


5L8 
57.3 


55.3 


55.0 

56.4 


55.5 


SO.  098 
.171 


0 

and 
un- 
der 
7 
cts. 


16 
4 


.144 


.116 
.196 


.167 


.14 

.260 


20 


11 
4 


15 


7 
and 
un- 
der 

8 
cts. 


54.0 
54.0 


65 
60 


54.0 


125 


114 
113 

227 


14 

87 


54.0 
53.9 


54.0 


.187 


.167 
.  226 


.207 


,165 
,198 


32 

32 


8 
and 
un- 
der 

9 
cts. 


9 
and 
un- 
der 

10 
cts. 


55.0 
56.2 

55.6 


Pennsylvania. 


Tennessee. 


Virginia. 


Wisconsin... 


Grand  total. 


Piece. . 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 


101 


58.3 
59.2 

59.1 


1 
3l 


8 
11 


11 


2 

16 

l.S 


163 
590 


753 


,181 


,177 
,197 


,187 


,127 
,143 


10 
10 


13 
1 


14 


10 


10 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
ots. 


13 
20 


12 
and 
un- 
der 

14 
cts. 


10 
28 


14 

and 
un- 
der 
16 
cts. 


10 


.141 


54. 0     .  150 
5.5.0     .248 


54.9 


.54.3 

54.  5 


44 
91 


188 

28 
58 


Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 


Total. 


32 
37 

38 


86 


54. 5 


57.9 
59.0 

58. 


.237 


.166 
.1,S9 


10 


8 


11 
4 


15 


38 
4 


17 


1 
12 


13 


16 
and 
un- 
der 

18 
cts. 


18 
and 
un- 
der 

20 

Cl.S. 


20 
and 
un- 
der 

25 
cts. 


4 
12 


_1^ 


2 

10 


12 


,184 


57.7 
58.3 


120 

48 


168 


892 
1,498 


.■1.8.1 

54.5 
54.7 


,118 

,188 


.16,5 


2     13 


16 


16 


.091 
.177 


16 


6 

34 


18 


13 
11 


24 


10 


10 
33 


9 
20 


149 


54.6 


55.0 
55.8 


2,390  .55.5 


.206 

.188 


.201 


.1.58 
.195 


40     43 

3 
1 


29 


8 
11 

19 

11 
21 

32 


15 


1 

lOJ 

11 


14 
5 


20 
33 


53 


10 
10 


19 


2.=i 
and 
un- 
der 
30 
cts. 


2 
10 

12 


6 


27 

2<j 


53 


1 


28 
108 

136 

4 

7 


1 
24 


20 

18 
10 

2S 

1 
9 


15 


6 
13 

19 


30 

cts. 

and 

over. 


1 

10 


11 
23 


34 


6 


27 

20 


11 

"i 


7 

25 


32 


17 
25 


42 


3 
7 

10 


22     23|      34 


17 
10 


25      10 


18 
23 

41 

1 
2 


31 
3S 


2j     11 


.181 


48 

16 


64 


70 
24 


94 


33 
43 


76 


42     34 
39     26 


10 
3 


69 

4 
19 

23 


2 
14 


13 
41 

54 


23 

8 

31 


12 

26 

38 


23 


12 


1«» 


34 


2 

8 


10 


17 


17 


IS 
25 

43 


30 
30 


12 
22 

34 


7 
9 

16 

1 

5 


15       8 
56 


16 


13 

79 
165 


81 


60   244 


81     11      14 
2'. ...I     18 


10|     11     32 


1071    85 

175j  166 


282]  251 


106 
139 


103 
118 

1 

10 


64 


9 

95 


104 


11 


14 
4 


32 
15 


3 
13 

16 


18 


245 


781  101 
82   259 

160i  360 


13 
4 


17 

63 
146 

209 


1 

9 

10 

Is 

1 
16 


46 

21s 

264 


0063°— 15 14 


db[< 


210 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


Table  73.-Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  Week,  and  Averacje  and  Clashifiei, 
IQH-ContTnued^  ^^^  ^^^  Pieceworkers  and  Time  Workers,  by  States, 

OTHER  EMPLOYEES,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Piece-    T',, 
workers  I^t 
or  time  fgg. 

Em 

ploy 

ees. 

full-    T 
■  time  ^^i« 

"  '^r  wages 

^^-  h^. 

Employes  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  hour. 

States. 

Un 

der 

5 

cts 

5 
-  anc 
un- 
der 
.    7 
cts 

7 
and 
■  un- 
der 

X 

cts. 

5 
\       2 

7 

8 
and 
un- 
der 

9 
cts 

IC 

9 
t  and 
•  un- 
der 
10 
cts 

I.... 

10 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
cts 

1? 

1 

12 
and 
•  un- 
der 
14 
cts 

U     16     18 

I  an(i  and  and 

■  un-  un-  un 

d«r  der  d«r 

16     18     20 

cts.  Cts.  cts 

i 

20 
I  and 
■  un- 
der 
25 
Cts 

•       2 

2^ 

anc 

•  un 

dKc 

30 

Cts 

I    30 
-  cts. 
and 
over. 

Georgia 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

3 
3 

76 
24 

5&C 
57.  S 

($0,085 
.077 

Ii 

< 

•      14 
t     13 

S 

•  ■  •  > 

5 

4 

2 

I.... 
(       1 

2 

1 

3 

IOC 

58.6 

.083 

2C 

1     27 

IC 

1 

18 

'1 

'       1 

a 

2 

7 
2 

9 

10 

Illinois 

3 
3 

76 
IS 

56.5 
54.5 

.128 
.134 

6 

•  ■  •  • 

11 

.... 

1 
4 

5 

5 

4 

6 
2 

13 

4 

If 

(     13 

1 

5 

— 

3 

2 
2 

2 

2 
2 

94 

56.1 

.129 

6 

11 
36 

32 

4 

S 

17 
20 

l.i 

^22 
3 

14 

~I9 
2 

21 

5 

7 

1 

8 

— 



Indiana 

190 

7 

65.0 
55.0 

$0,110 
.149 

9 

7 

23 
1 

— 

— , — 

197 

121 
61 

55.0 

.112 

9 

36 

32 

5 

7 

24 

16 
20 

20 

16 
4 

25 

~2n 

15 
35 

10 

i 

Massachusetts. 

54.0 
54.0 

.151 
.150 



4 



3 

11 
1 

13 

7 

21 
10 

17 
3 



2 

2 
2 

182 

153 
16 

54.0 

54.0 
53.0 

. 150 ... . 

4 



3 

12 

36 

20 

20 

21 
4 

31 
17 

20 
15 

1 

5 

Michigan 

.146 
.133 

4 

2 

14 

5 

5 
3 

23 
1 

17 
6 

23 
2 

25 

2 

2 

169 

53.9 

.145 

4 

2 

14 

5 

8 

24 

23 

25 

17 

15 

5 

2 

New    Hamp- 
shire. 

3 
3 

112 
60 

55.0 
55.0 

.156 
.126 

5 

8 

7 

•  *  «  « 

1 

1 

4 

9 
6 

11 

27 

17 
12 

10 

6 

16 

17 
1 

29 

I 

3 

172 

78 
42 

55.0 

.146     13 

7 

1 

1 

4 

15 

38 

29 

18 

29 

1 

North  Carolina 

3 
3 

58.8 
59.6 

.0941     18 
.067j      8 

^ 

3       4 
5.... 

5 

14 
2 

14       7 

3 

"  •  •  • 

1 

«   •   a    • 

'- 



6 

1 

8 

•  •  •  - 

•  >  .  , 

3 

2 
3 

120 

42 
3 

59.1 

5L7 
53.0 

.085     26 

. 132  .... 
.113...- 

29 
2 

H 

4 

5 

16 

20 

3 
1 

1.... 

Ohio 

13 

8 

1 

2       2 

1 

1 

7       2 
1.... 

2 

3 

45 

51.8 

53.3 
53.9 

.131.... 

.132    66 
.109     22 

2 

63 
29 

30 
131 

161 

6 

3 

13 

9 

8|      3 

1 

69 
16 

2 

2 

1 

2 

Pennsylvania. 

11 
11 

624 
524 

48 
42 

32 
31 

50 
63 

56 
115 

56 
31 

54 
20 

65 
16 

29 

8 

6 

11 

1,148 

53.6 

.121!    88 

1 

92 

90 

63 

113 

171 

87 

85j    74 

81 

37 

6 

Tennessee 

2 
2 

167 
29 

57.9 
57.9 

.O97I    35 
.097     11 

15 
1 

14 

24 

17 
5 

25 
6 

18 
6 

2:} 

9 
1 

4 

«  ■  •  r 

; 

•  •  •  • 

"  ■  •  ■ 

2 

196 

57.9 

.097     46 

16 

6'    H 

24 

22 

31 

10 

4 

.... 

.... 

Virginia 

2 
2 

133 

8 

57.7 
58.3 

.099       8 
.112       3 

26 

8     12 

18 

25 

1 

17 

11 
1 

4 

3 
I 

2 

•  •  •  • 

1 

1 

2 

141 

57.7 

099|     11 

26 

H     13 

18 

26 

17 

12 

4 

3 

2 

1 

Wisconsin 

2 

1 

292 
17 

54.4 
53.5 

.  152|      1 

•  ilo  •  »  .  • 

10 

7 
2 

9 

lOrt! 
140 

26 
1 

10 
2 

48 
6 

47 
3 

31 
2 

32 
1 

27 

37 

11 

5 

2 

37  2 
37 

:J09 

',064 
809 

54.4 

55.0 
54.6 

.150;    1 

.128   169 

.nil   55 

10 

199 
63 

27 

12 

54 

50 

33 

33 

27 

37 

11 

5 

Grand  total. 

131 
49 

133 
37 

256 
109 

248 
172 

221 

80 

194 
39 

159 
34 

186 
21 

47 
10 

15 

Total. 

38  2 

,873   54.8 

.123  224 

1 

262 

246   180 

170 

365 

420|  301 

233 

193 

207 

57 

15 

WORKING  CONDITIONS. 


211 


Table  73. — Average  Full-Time  Hours  per  WTrpTr   axtt^  a^  i=.t>»^.,  r^ 

OTHER  EMLOYEES,  HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWEARra  MALE. 


Piece- 
workers 
or  time 
work- 
ers. 

Es- 
tab- 
lish- 
m'ts. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Av. 

full- 

time 

hrs. 

per 

w'k. 

Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Employees  earning  each  classified  rate  of  wages  per  hour. 

States. 

Un- 
der 
5 
cts. 

5 
and 
un- 
der 

7 
Cts. 

7 
and 
un- 
der 

8 
cts. 

8 
and 
un- 
der 

9 
cts. 

9 
and 
un- 
der 
10 
cts. 

10 
and 
un- 
der 

12 
cts. 

5 
37 

12 
and 
un- 
der 

14 
cts. 

14 
and 
un- 
der 

16 
cts. 

16 
and 
un- 
der 

18 
cts. 

23 
40 

18 
a  d 
un- 
der 

20 
cts. 

20 
and 
un- 
der 

25 
cts. 

25 
and 
un- 
der 

30 
cts. 

11 

71 

30 

cts. 

and 

over. 

Grand  total... 

Piece.. 
Time.. 

TotAl. 

4 
5 

5 

116 
500 

54  9 
54.7 

$0,200 
.190 

5 
21 

16 
196 

17 
31 

26 
56 

— 

•  •  •  > 

— 

3 

4 

13 
41 

— — 

616 

54.7 

.192 

— 

>      •      B      . 

— 

3 

4 

42 

26 

212 

63 

48 

82 

82 

54 

OTHER  EMPLOYEES,  HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWEAR:  a  FEMALE 


Grand  total... 


Piece.. 
Time.. 

Total. 


338 

189 


527 


54.2 
54.2 


54.2 


$0,155 
.134 


.148 


11 


11 


10 
11 


21 


15 
6 


21 


29 
41 

70 


47 

28 


75 


50 
80 


130 


45 
14 


59 


61 
3 


64 


55 
1 


56 


2 
1 


o  Establishments  making  both  hosiery  and  underwear. 

Table  74  shows  the  average  rates  of  wages  per  hour,  average  full 
time  weekly  eammgs,  and  average  and  clLi&d  fuU-timX^  S 
week  of  employees  in  the  establShments  in  each  State  fromThLh 
data  were  secured,  by  years,  1913  and  1914. 

Table  74.— Average  Rates  op  Wages  per  Hour    Avfratf  Vrm  -rr^x.  mi- 
Earnings,  and  Average  and  Classified  Cl-tIme  HotiRs  SL  Week  il  pfn^ 
State,  by  Years,  1913  and  1914.  -tiuuRs  per  week  in  Each 

[The  figures  for  both  years  are  for  identical  establishments.! 
BOARDERS,  HOSIERY  AND   UNDERWEAR:  MALE. 


Year. 

Em- 
ploy- 

Aver 
age 
full- 
time 
hours 
per 
week. 

-  Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 
wages 
per 
hour. 

Aver 

age 

fuil- 

time 

week- 

ly 

earn- 
ings. 

Employees  whose  full-time  hours  per 
week  were— 

State  and  number  of  estab- 
lishments. 

Un- 
der 

48. 

48 
and 
un- 
der 
51. 

51 
and 
un- 
der 

54. 

54. 

Ovei 
54 
and 
un- 
der 
57. 

8 
8 

57 
and 
un- 
der 
60. 

CO. 

Over 
GO. 

Georgia  (3) 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 
1914 

64 
69 
25 
41 
105 
106 
272 
282 
29 
32 
49 
53 
368 
335 
75 
79 
38 
42 
53 
48 
78 
87 

58.6 

58.6 

55.9 

56.1 

55.0 

55.0 

54.0 

54.0 

58.0 

55.0 

59.4 

59.4 

55.1 

54.2 

58.2 

57.9 

57.3 

57.6 

55.0 

55.0 

54.8 

55.2 

$0,151 
.165 
.229 
.181 
.226 
.246 
.218 
.226 
.190 
.218 
.161 
.177 
.254 
.279 
.164 
.152 
.166 
.170 
.289 
.279 
.234 
.225 

.223 
.231 

$8.81 
9.68 
12.75 
10.18 
12.45 
13.55 
n.77 
12.22 
11.02 
11.99 
9.53 
10.49 
13.99 
15.13 
9.52 
8.78 
9.51 
9.82 
15.89 
15.32 
12.77 
12.45 

26 
29 
12 
15 

30 
32 

Illinois  (2) 

13 

Indiana  (2) 

Massachusetts  (3) 

■• . . . 

24 

"272 
282 

"ios 

106 

""2 

iNew  riampshire  (2) 

North  Carolina  (3) 

"32 

6 

"29 

ii 

"43 
42 

Pennsylvania  (11) 

368 

88 

'"""e 

Tennessee  (2) 

Virginia  (2) 

Wisconsin  (2) 

77 

i;6 

69 
79 
32 
42 

'  "e 

Other  States  (9) 

"  '3 

""   '5 
4 

18 
81 

si 

27 

323 
503 

M 

48 

3 

49 

io 

7 

""■'e 

Total  (41) 

1,156 
1,174 

55.5 
55.3 

12.32 
12.69 

3 

549 
331 

178 
183 

So 
76 

^ 

1 

L 

■ 

212 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


Table  74. — Average  Rates  op  Wages  per  Hour,  Average  Full-time  Weekly 
Earnings,  and  Average  and  Classified  Full-time  Hours  per  Week  im  Each 
State,  by  Years,  1913  and  1914— Continuod. 

INSPECTORS  and   FOLDERS,  HOSIERY   AND  UNDERWFAR:  FEMALE. 


• 

Year. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Aver- 
age 
full- 
time 
hours 
per 
week. 

Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

A  ver- 
age 
full- 
time 
week- 
ly 
earn- 
ings 

Employees  wliose  full-time  hours  per 
week  were— 

state  and  number  of  estab- 
lishments. 

Un- 
der 

48. 

48 
and 
un- 
der 
51. 

51 

and 
un- 
der 
54. 

54. 

Over 
54 
and 
un- 
der 
57. 

9H 

H 
6 

4.) 

57 
and 
un- 
der 

60. 

m. 

Over 

60. 

Connecticut  (3) 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 

66 

98 

67 

52 

55 

45 

306 

372 

65 

91 

587 

545 

29 

29 

70 

61 

145 

185 

37 

43 

48 

69 

38 

58 

5H.3 
55.0 
58. 7 
58.9 
55.0 
55.0 
54.0 
54.0 
58.0 
5.x  0 
54.0 
51.0 
59.8 
59.9 
5:}.  8 
52.5 
5.).  8 
54.0 
58.5 
57.9 
55. 0 
55.0 
5.5.2 
55.1 

$0,149 
.148 
.115 
.118 
.130 
.141 
.143 
.155 
.150 
.162 
.157 
.162 
.142 
.146 
.118 
.144 
.141 
.145 
.134 
.132 
.151 
.155 
.155 
.146 

$H.65 
8.12 
6.79 
6.96 
7.16 
7.74 
7.71 
K.39 
8.70 
8.89 
8.46 
8.75 
8.48 
8.76 
6.36 
7.60 
7.86 
7.81 
7.84 
7.62 
N.32 
H.53 

22 

31 

' 

( i  eorgia  (3) 

23 
13 

36 
33 

Indiana  (2) 



Massachusetts  (3) 

306 
372 

New  Hampshire  (2) 

65 

91 

New  York  (17) 

687 
545 

North  Carolina  (3) 

1 

..... 
"34 

28 
28 

Ohio(5) 

""9 

2 

4 
6 

64 
46 

"ill 

I'ennsylvania  (9) 

18 

167 

Tennessee  (2) 

27 
43 

10 

Wisconsin  (4) 

4N 

69 

3 

Other  States  (6) 

H.51 
K.10 

4 

21 
41 

10 
17 



Total  (59) 

1,513 
1,648 

55.1 
54.5 

.146 
.153 

K.a3 
8.35 

""9 

2 

8 
24 

978 
1,171 

239 

309 

181 
74 

105 
61 

KNITTERS,  FOOTERS,  OR  TOPPERS,  HOSIERY:  MALE. 


Georgia  (3) 

Nev  Hampshire  (2) 

Tennessee  (2) 

Virginia  (2) 

Other  States  (3) 


Total  (12).. 


1913 

43 

58,3 

$0. 127 

1914 

42 

58,9 

.121 

1913 

33 

.5-8.0 

.179 

1914 

28 

5.').0 

.195 

1913 

75 

58.8 

.132 

1914 

79 

58.0 

.119 

1913 

22 

56.7 

.1.56 

1914 

33 

57.8 

.143 

1913 

16 

5«).5 

.154 

1914 
1913 

49 

54.3 

.167 

189 

58.1 

.113 

1914 

231 

57.0 

.142 

17. 38 
7.10 
10.38 
10. 71 
7.75 
6.89 
X.80 
H.29 
1.71 
9.08 


8.33 
S.06 


9 
46 


9 
46 


5 
1 


28 

ia 


17 
29 


24 
20 
33 

46 
79 
10 
33 
1 
1 


114 
133 


KNITTERS,  FOOTERS,  OR  TOPPKRS,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Connecticut  (2) 

Georgia  (3) 

Illinois  (3) 

Massachusetts  (3)... 
New  Hampshire  (3) . 
North  Carolina  (3).. 

Ohio  (3) 

Pennsylvania  (8) 

Teimessee  (2) 

Virginia  (2) 

Wisconsin  (2) 

Other  States  (2) 

Total  (36) 


14 
21 


29 


6 
2 

49 
23 


1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

111 
134 
130 
120 
166 
174 

59.1 
55.0 
57.3 
57.4 
54.6 
5.3.8 

$0. 157 
.157 
.019 
.114 
.128 
.112 

f\K  25 
.s.66 
»>.27 
6.54 
<i.99 
«.02 

52 

""53 
51 
53 

44 

59 

"27 
28 

134 
50 
41 

113 
119 

8 

3 

1913 
1914 
1913 

195 
187 
1.32 

54.0 
54.0 

5,8.0 

.147 
.1.S3 
.153 

7.94 

S.28 
S.85 

195 
187 



i32 

1914 

151 

5.').0 

.141 

7.73 

151 

1913 

138 

59.2 

.089 

5. 23 

?3 

115 

1914 

129 

59.1 

.099 

5. 84 

38 

91 

1913 

63 

51.0 

.126 

6.46 

7 

28 

7 

71 

1914 

65 

52.2 

.138 

7.22 

4 

38 

?3 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 

1,311 

1,244 

186 

234 

64 

55.6 
5.3.9 
58.6 
57.9 
57.0 

.166 
.167 
.139 
.147 
.121 

9.23 

H,98 

1,078 

233 

'i26 
234 

44 

""60 

446 

798 

V.  14 
^.53 

6.93 

m 

1914 

68 

57.6 

.112 

6.47 

68 

1913 

89 

55.0 

.163 

8. 98 

89 

1914 

117 

55. 0 

.163 

M.99 

117 

1913 

128 

54.4 

.  137 

7.48 

31 

97 

1914 
1913 

136 

5-4.6 

.136 

7.41 

21 



115 

2, 713 

56.0 

.  149 

8.35 

t 

28'     151 

216 

1 , 3.''.7 

693 

*.»(U' 

1914 

2,759 

54.9 

.150 

8.19 

12 

' 

624 

l.()i)8 

5.5M 

4:55 

119 

WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


213 


Table  74.— Average  Rates  of  Wages  per  Hour,  Average  Full-time  Weekly 
Earnings,  AND  Average  and  Classified  Full-time  Hours  per  Week  in  Each 
State,  by  Years,  1913  and  1914— Continued. 

KNITTERS.  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY:  MALE. 


Year. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Aver- 

.St 

time 

hours 

per 

week. 

Aver- 
age 

rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour 

Aver- 
age 
full- 
time 
week- 
ly 
earn- 
ings. 

Employees  whose  full-time  hours  per 
week  were— 

State  and  number  of  estab- 
lishments. 

Un- 
der 

48. 

48 
and 
un- 
der 

51. 

51 
and 
un- 
der 
54. 

54. 

Over 
54 
and 
un- 
der 
57. 

227 
234 
194 
155 
31 
44 

57 
and 
un- 
der 
60. 

GO. 

Over 
GO. 

Indiana  (2) 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 

227 
234 
194 
229 
44 
44 

55.0 
55.0 
55.1 
54.6 
55.9 
55.0 

$0,364 
..394 
.425 
.424 
..371 
.384 

$20.02 
21.67 
23.40 
23.19 
20.68 
2L15 

Pennsylvania  (4) 

..... 

Other  States  (3) 

"63 

ii 

"is 

Total  (9) 

465 
507 

55.1 

54.8 

.390 
.407 

2L49 
22.31 

452 
433 

13 

63 

11 

KNITTERS,  "LADY  HOSE":  MALE. 


Massachu.setts  (2)... 
New  Hampshire  (2). 

Pennsylvania  (2) 

Other  States  (9) 


Total  (15). 


1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 


113 
147 
64 
20 
48 
51 
67 
66 


292 

284 


54.0 
54.0 
58.0 
.55.0 
55.4 
54.0 
58.0 
58.1 


56.0 
55.0 


$0,192 
.192 
.180 
.208 
.239 
.214 
.162 
.187 


190 
196 


$10. 37 
10.39 
10.42 
1L46 
13.23 
11.58 
9.39 
10.85 


10.63 
10.79 


113 
147 


51 


113 

198 


20 

48 


64 


15 
10 


26 
32 


63 
30! 


90 
32 


26 
24 


26 
24 


Pennsylvania  (5) . 

Wisconsin  (2) 

Other  States  (4).. 


KNITTERS,  "LADY  HOSE":  FEMALE. 


Total  (11). 


1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 


62 
36 
48 
19 
66 
43 


176 
98 


55.3 
54.0 
55.0 
55.0 
56.4 
54.2 


55.6 
54.3 


$0,142 
.189 
.147 
.164 
.157 
.153 


,149 
,168 


$7.84 

10.18 

8.08 

9.00 

a  87 

8.29 


8.29 
9.12 


8 
9; 


36 


14 
23 


8 
9 


14 
59 


62 

*48 
19 

"16 


110 

29 


44 
1 


44 
1 


L00PER8,  HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWEAR:  FEMALE. 


Connecticut  (3) 

Georgia  (3) 

Illinois  (3) 

Indiana  (2) 

Massachusetts  (3)... 

Michigan  (2) 

New  Hampshire  (3) . 

New  York  (3) 

North  Carolina  (3). . 
Ohio  (3) 

Permsylvania(13).. 

Tennessee  (2) 

Virginia  (2) , 

Wisconsin  (2) 


Total  (47). 


1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 

1914 

1913 
1914 


97 

106 

89 

111 

91 

110 

119 

119 

413 

491 

81 

79 

128 

147 

93 

85 

93 

84 

25 

27 

936 

930 

110 

124 

45 

61 

146 

141 


2,466 
2,615 


5a  1 
55.0 
59.0 
58.9 
56.6 
54.9 
55.0 
55.0 
54.0 
54.0 
53.9 
53.9 
5a  0 
55.0 
64.0 
54.0 
5a9 

5a8 

51.5 
52.6 
55.5 
53.9 
5a  5 
57.9 
57.2 
57.7 
55.0 
53.6 


$0. 


,178 
190 
127 
133 
124 
114 
138 
141 
151 
154 
151 
171 
162 
171 
199 
221 
104 
113 
171 
150 
154 
167 
133 
125 
132 
123 
158 
158 


55.8 
64.8 


$10. 34 
10.44 
7.47 
7.81 
7.04 
6.29 
7.59 
7.78 

a  13 
a  32 
a  12 

9.24 
9.38 
9.42 
10.75 
11.95 
6.14 
6.62 

a  82 

7.90 
a  57 

a  98 

7.76 
7.23 
7.57 
7.09 
a68 
a53 


12 


151     a  41 

,157     a  59 


19 


27 


33 
34 


12 


7 
21 


193 


12 
12 


47 
253 


18 

106 

5 

5 


413. 
491 

74 

74 


119 
119 


93 

85 


147 


46 


34 
47 
58 
56 


128 


6 
6 


737 


586 
1,393 


20 


805 


10 

146 
122 


1,123 
499 


33 


50 
59 


33 


73 
51 


131i 


82      28 
1241... 

35..., 
61... 


514 
321 


184 
110 


214 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


T^LE  74.— Average  Rates  op  Wages  per  Hour,  Average  FtJLL-TTME  Weekly 

JbARNINGS    AND  AVERAGE  AND  CLASSIFIED   FULL-TIME  HoURS  PER  WeeK  IN  Eacb 

State,  by  Years,  1913  and  1914— Continued. 

MENDERS,  FINE,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Year, 

Em- 
ploy- 

£koa 

Aver- 
age 
full- 
time 
hours 
per 
week. 

Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Aver- 

ft!)?. 

time 
week- 

l.v 
earn- 
ings. 

Employees  whose  full-time  hours  per 
weok  were— 

State  and  number  of  estab- 
lishments. 

Un- 
der 

48. 

48 
and 
un- 
der 

51. 

51 
and 
un- 
der 
54. 

54. 

8K 
105 

Over 
64 

and 
un- 
der 
57. 

57 
and 
un- 
der 
(M). 

60. 

Over 
60. 

Massachusetts  (3) 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 

88 
105 
83 
92 
79 
99 

54.0 
54.0 
55.1 
54.0 
56.5 
56.5 

SO.  124 
.148 
.172 
.180 
.132 
.130 

$6.71 
7.98 
9.46 
9.71 
7.45 
7.37 

*  "  •  ■  ' 

*  -  •  •  > 

Pennsylvania  (S) 

83 

14 
5 
4 

7» 
19 

Other  States  (16) 

2 

16 
23 

99 
23 

14 

28 

23 
21 



"  ■  •  ■  " 

Total  (27) 

250 
296 

55.2 

54.8 

.142 
.152 

7.86 
8.31 

2 

5 

18 

107 

14 
28 

23 

21 

MENDERS,  ROUGH,  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Connecticut  (3) 

Georgia  (3) 

Indiana  (2) 

Massachusetts  (3).. . 
New  Hampshire  (3) 
Pennsylvania  (9) . . . 

Tennessee  (2) 

Wisconsin  (2) 

Other  States  (12)... 

Total  (39) 


1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 


36 

48 

79 

82 

134 

125 

109 

117 

71 

60 

207 

206 

78 

41 

81 

77 

129 

111 


924 

867 


59.0 
55.0 
58.4 
58.5 
55.0 
55.0 
54.0 
54.0 
58.0 
55.0 
56.1 
63.9 
58.5 
58.0 
55. 0 
55.0 
56.8 
55.3 


$0,148 
.161 
.110 
.114 
.143 
.147 
.146 
.140 
.142 
.159 
.173 
.169 
.126 
.109 
.132 
.148 
.124 
.144 


56. 3   .  142 
55. 11  .  148 


$8.73 
8.87 

6.  15 
0.  <)() 
7.87 
8.11 
7.H6 

7  57 

8  26 
8.74 

9  70 
9  09 

7  :J6 

6  :«) 
7-27 

8  14 

7.  (JO 

7  92 


8  00 
8.  11 


27 


13 
29 


13 

66 


109 
117 


17H 


24 
3H| 


133 
333 


1 

48 

14 

11 

134 

125 


16 


30 
35 


60 
150 


81 
77 
12 


392 
321 


19 


35 
3<i 


71 


57 


57 
41 


14 

37 


245 
113 


21 


58 
7 


133 
43 


PRESS  HANDS,  HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWEAR:  FEMALE. 


New  York  (9) 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 

101 
109 
139 
135 

54.0 
64.0 
64.3 
64.1 

$0,152 
.160 
.149 
.140 

$8.21 

8.j;5 

8.  14 
7.55 

101 
109 
101 
121 

Other  States  (5) 

3 

22 
14 

22 
14 

13 

Total  (14) 

240 
244 

54.2 
64.1 

.150 
.149 

8.17 
8.04 

3 

202 
ZiO 

13 

SEAMERS,  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Indiana  (2) 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 

131 
128 
143 
156 
19 
22 

55.0 
55.0 
55.1 
53.9 
55.9 
55.0 

$0. 148 
.152 
.187 
.193 
.190 
.155 

$8.16 
8.37 

In   'J *> 

131 
128 
143 

Pennsvlvania  (4) 

•  -  •  •  • 

•  .  .     . 

Other  States  (3) 

10.  >1Z 

10.  40 

10.04 

8.50 

"hi 

•  •  •  ■  . 
105 

-  •  > 

is 

22 

6 

Total  (9) 

293 
306 

55.1 
54.4 

.170 
.173 

9.38 
9.41 

-- 

287 
150 

6 

61 

105 

WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


215 


Table  74. — Average  Rates  op  Wages  per  Hour,  Average  Full-time  Weekly 
Earnings,  and  Average  and  Classified  Full-time  Hours  per  Week  in  Each 
State,  by  Years,  1913  and  1914— Continued. 

TOPPERS,  FULL-FASHIONED  HOSIERY:  FEMALE. 


Year. 

Em- 
ploy- 
ees. 

Aver- 
age 
full- 
time 
hours 
per 
week. 

Aver- 
age 
rate 
of 

wages 
per 

hour. 

Aver- 
age 
full- 
time 
week- 

ly 

earn- 
ings. 

Employees  whose  full-time  hours  per 
week  were— 

State  and  number  of  estab- 
lishments. 

Un- 
der 

48. 

48 
and 
un- 
der 
51. 

51 
and 
un- 
der 
54. 

54. 

Over 
54 
and 
im- 
der 
57. 

57 
and 
un- 
der 
60. 

60. 

Over 

6a 

Pennsylvania  (3) 

1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 

212 
244 

236 
236 

55.1 
53.9 
55.2 
54.9 

$0,166 
.157 
.140 
.144 

$9.15 
8.47 
7.74 
7.90 

212 

Ill 

133 

Other  States  (3) 

222 
234 

14 

2 

Total  (6) 

448 
480 

55.1 
54.4 

.152 
.161 

8.41 
8.17 

434 
234 

14 

1914 

2 

HI 

133 

WELTERS,  HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWARE:  FEMALE. 


Georgia  (3) 

Massachusetts  (3) 
New  York  (6)..., 
Pennsylvania  (6). 
Other  States  (12). 

Total(30).. 


1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 


25 
29 
132 
128 
34 
49 
64 
73 
74 
67 


329 

346 


58.6 
58.6 
54.0 
54.0 
54.0 
54.0 
55.7 
54.0 
57.6 
56.9 


55.5 
54.9 


$0. 


117 
133 
140 
144 
191 
188 
179 
198 
136 
150 


150 
162 


$6.86 
7.79 
7.57 
7.77 

10.33 

10.16 
9.97 

10.70 
7.78 
8.47 


8.31 

8.86 


132 

128 

34 

49 


73 
5 
3 


171 
253 


55 


18 
25 


75 
27 


12 
16 


9 


26 
18 


47 
34 


11 
11 


25 
20 


36 
31 


WINDERS,  HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWEAR:  FEMALE. 


Connecticut  (3) 

Indiana(2) 

Massachusetts  (3)... 
New  Hampshire  (4) 

NewY^ork(16) 

Ohio(5) 

Pennsylvania  (11). . 

Wisconsin  (4) 

Other  States  (5).... 

Total  (53) 


1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 
1913 
1914 

1913 
1914 


35 

39 

69 

71 

259 

377 

60 

76 

468 

436 

31 

31 

238 

279 

30 

35 

35 

37 


1,225 
1,381 


57.6 
55.0 
55.0 
55.0 
54.0 
54.0 
58.0 
55.0 
54.0 
54.0 
53.8 
53.4 
55.6 
53.9 
53.9 
52.8 
65.9 
56.5 


54.7 
54.1 


$0,148 
.164 
.154 
.155 
.142 
.138 
.148 
.152 
.178 
.177 
.143 
.129 
.137 
.149 
.177 
.133 
.116 
.124 


.156 
.164 


$8. 
9. 
8. 
8. 
7. 
7. 
8. 
8. 
9. 
9. 
7. 
6. 
7. 
8. 
9. 
7. 
6. 
6. 


55 
01 
47 
52 
64 
44 
57 
36 
59 
56 
69 
89 
63 
04 
62 
11 
48 
99 


8.52 
8.36 


67 


2 

69 


259 
377 


468 

436 

29 

28 


10 
39 
69 
71 


17 


60 


76 


212 


15 
11 


193 


46 


261 

29 

6 


771  303 
1,064  215 


11 
25 


133 
25 


11 


An  attempt  was  made  to  gather  information  concerning  the  volume 
and  regularity  of  employment  in  this  industry  during  the  year  ended 
March,  1914,  and  the  amount  paid  out  in  wages  during  the  same 
period.  Such  figures  do  not,  ojT  course,  show  the  number  of  unem- 
ployed desu-ing  work  in  an  industry.  Furthermore,  the  loss  of  em- 
ployment in  an  estabhshment  does  not  necessarily  mean  unemploy- 
ment, as  the  employees  may  find  work  elsewhere  in  the  same  or  some 
other  industry.  The  material  presented,  while  not  strictly  data  con- 
cerning unemployment,  may  be  accepted,  however,  as  indicative  of 
the  amoimt  of  unemployment  in  the  industry  covered. 


kt 


Jfr  r,_ 


owW: 


216 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTBY. 


Data  were  obtained  from  39  establishments  covering  the  number 
ot  days  the  plant  was  m  operation,  th(^  number  of  employees  on  the 
pay  roll,  and  the  amomit  of  the  pay  roll  for  each  pay  period  for  a 

duriiig  the''  eaf  ^'''''''^  ''^  ^^^  '''''^^^^  ""^  ^^^^  *^^  ^^'"^^  "^^  ^^*^"^^ 

Table  75.— Average  Days  Establishments  were  in  OpERATtoN    Numbfii  op 
Employees    Total  Amount  of  Pay  Rolls,  and  Averace  ]<:ARNiNGS  per  Em 
PLOYEE  IN  Two  Weeks,  for  One  Year,  by  Two-Week  Periods 

HOSIERY.  35  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


Two-week  period  ending  approximately- 


Aprill2 

April  26 

May  10 

May  24 

Jiine  7 

June  21 

July  5 

July  19 

August  2 

August  16.... 

August  30 

September  13. 
September  27. 
October  11... 
Octol)er  25. . . 
Novembers.. 
November  22. 
December  6.. 
December  20.. 


Januarys... 
January  17.. 
Januiuy  31.. 
February  14. 
February  28. 

March  14 

March  28 


Average. 


Aprill2 

Aj)ril26 

May  10 

May24 

Jime7 

June  21 

Julys 

July  19 

August  2 

August  16 

August  30 

September  13. 
September  27. 
October  11... 

October  25 

Novembers.. 
November  22. 
December  6... 
December  20. . 


January  3 . . . 
January  17.. 
Jtinuary  31 . . 
February  14. 
February  28. 

March  14 

March  28 


1913. 


Average 
number  of 

days  in 
operation . 


11.9 
1L9 
12.0 
11.6 


Employees. 


Total 
amount  of 
})ay  rolls. 


II 
II 

10 

10 

11.8 

11.9 

11.5 


1914. 


II 
11 
II 
II 
12 
II. 
II.  1 
11. 1 


9.0 
11.6 


U. 
II. 
IL 
11. 
12. 


U.5 


15,052 

14,997 

14,815 

14,818 

14,990 

15, 128 

14,921 

14.990 

14,910 

14,881 

14,821 

14,830 

14,899 

14,940 

14,986 

14,993 

14,975 

14,971 

14,923 

14, 167 
14,519 
14,938 
14,479 
14.  749 
14,899 
15, 105 


14,873 


J245,093.20 
2 U.  084.  58 
240,  708. 91 
2.'W),824.84 
222, 494.  50 
242,302.30 
204, 489. 69 
-'22,974.73 
-'■{•I,  095.  21 
2;U),213.94 
228,320.15 
223,408.31 
244, 505.  75 
2->;i,  500. 05 
2.'):  {,099.  91 
251,849.53 
24H,317.5<S 
239,807.06 
24.'i,  442. 51 

18J<,093.71 
237,008.52 
244,914.97 
240,790.20 
335,877.72 
244,911.77 
251,228.00 


Average 
earnings 

Ser  t-m- 
^  oywe  in 
two  w»«ks. 


236,975.29 


HOSIERY  AND  UNDERWEAR,  4  ESTABLISHMENTS. 


1913. 


•••^••yi 


1914. 


Average. 


12.0 
1L8 
12.0 
12.0 
10.8 
12.0 
7.5 
12.0 
12.0 
10.5 
H.8 
11.0 
12.0 
12.0 
11.8 
12.0 
12.0 
10.5 
12.0 

9.0 
12.0 
12.0 
12.0 
11.8 
12.0 
12.0 


IL5 


4,308 

4,329 

4,331 

4,333 

4,353 

4,386 

3,973 

4,251 

4,283 

4,275 

4,266 

4,284 

4,400 

4,444 

4,465 

4,466 

4,547 

4,415 

4,435 

4,274 

4,367 
4,383 
4,396 
4,357 
4,362 
4,321 


4,346 


172,892.75 
70,167.63 
71.914.94 
72.540.86 
64.056.51 
73.362.95 
55.349.32 
71.139.44 
70,514.98 
65.886.80 
67,  520. 06 
i«i.645.50 
76,097.21 
74,962.54 
70,395.41 
74,047.43 
74,279.82 
67,005.51 
73,472.50 

59,934.96 
71,428.76 
71,101.54 
71,492.71 
iM\,  610. 79 
72,407.09 
72, 358. 97 


69, 907. 19 


116. 28 
16.28 
16. 25 
15.98 
14.84 
16.02 
13.70 
14.87 
15.77 
15.87 
15.41 
15.06 
16.41 
16. 97 
16.89 
16.80 
16.58 
16.02 
16. 45 

13.28 
16.32 
16.40 
16.63 
15.99 
16.44 
16.63 


15.93 


$16.92 
16.21 
16.60 
16.74 
14.72 
16.73 
13.93 
16. 73 
16. 46 
15.41 
15.83 
15.56 
17.29 
16. 87 
15.77 
16.58 
16.34 
15.18 
16. 57 

14.02 
16.36 
16. 22 
1(J.  26 
15.29 
16.60 
1(1.  75 


WORKING   CONDITIONS. 


217 


Table  75  shows  the  average  number  of  days  in  operation,  the 
total  number  of  employees,  the  total  amount  of  pay  roll,  and  the  aver- 
age earnmgs  per  employee  in  two-week  periods  for  35  hosiery  estab- 
lishments and  4  establishments  manufacturing  both  hosiery  and 
underw^r.  In  this  table  the  data  have  been  reduced  to  a  two-week 
basis.  This  was  necessary  because  in  a  considerable  number  of 
establishments  the  regular  pay-roll  period  covers  two  weeks  and  it 
was  not  practicable  to  separate  the  figures  so  as  to  show  them  for 
^^e  week.  Hence,  for  estabhshments  which  have  a  weekly  pay  roll 
the  figures  for  two  consecutive  pay  rolls  were  combined  so  as  to  bring 
ji^j  same  base.  The  amounts  of  the  two  weekly  pay  rolls  were 
added,  and  the  number  of  employees  used  was  the  average  of  the 
numbers  in  the  two  weeks.  The  figures  show  a  striking  uniformity 
m  the  volume  of  employment  in  the  industry  m  the  12  months 
covered.  It  wlQ  be  noticed  that  there  is  very  little  variation  either 
m  the  average  number  of  days  in  operation,  the  number  of  emplovees, 
or  the  average  earnings  per  employee,  except  as  the  latter  are  affected 
by  the  number  of  days  in  operation.  For  example,  for  the  period 
ending  July  5  and  the  period  ending  January  3  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  eammgs  per  employee  are  considerably  lower  than  for  other 
periods,  but  it  will  be  observed  that  both  of  these  periods  include 
holidays  which  are  almost  universally  observed,  and  the  average 
days  in  operation  were  less  than  in  other  periods. 


16. 07 


CHAPTER  VII. 
FOEEIGN  THADE. 

IMPORTS  OF  HOSIEBY. 

.'Pli  ]"^P^^^^^^^^^  ^^  hosiery  into  the  United  States  consist  chiefly 
of  full-fashioned  hosiery  of  cotton  for  women  and  socks  for  children. 
A  small  amount  of  fancy  full-fashioned  haK  hose  for  men  is  imported. 
Most  of  the  hosiery  imports  are  from  the  Chemnitz  district  m  Ger- 
many. The  imports  of  silk  hosiery  for  women  are  small,  practically 
all  that  IS  unported  being  very  high-class  hand-embroidered  full- 
fashioned  stockings.  A  large  amount  of  socks  for  children  is 
imported.  Children's  socks  manufactured  in  Europ<?  are  knit  on  a 
flat  machine  that  permits  the  making  of  vertical  stripes,  as  well  as 
the  making  of  all  kmds  of  fancy  designs  for  the  top  of  the  sock,  which 
IS  the  principal  factor  in  selling  it.  The  American  manufacturer, 
using  the  more  speedy  circular  seamless  machine,  can  make  only 
circular  and  not  vertical  stripes.  This  prevents  th(^  production  of 
fancv  designs.  Some  cut  and  sewed  hosiery,  principally  socks  for 
chddren,  are  imported.  They  are  made  from  a  knitted  fabric,  cut 
by  shears,  and  then  sewed  together. 

The  importations  of  cotton  hosiery  have  decreased  for  sevciral 
years.  The  q^uantity  and  value  of  the  cotton  hosiery  imported  for 
consumption  into  the  United  States  diu-ing  the  six  fiscal  years  1909 
to  1914,  inclusive,  are  shown  in  Table  76. 

Table  76.— Quantity  and  Value  of  Hosiery  Made  op  Cottoi^  or  Other  Vege- 
table Fiber  Imported  for  Consumption  During  the  Fiscal  Years  Ending 
June  30,  1909-1914. 

DOZEN  PAIRS. 


FOREIGN   TBADE. 


219 


Articles. 

1909 

1910 

1911 

1912 

1913 

1914 

Selvage<l,  fashioned,  narrowed,  or 
shaped  wholly  or  in  part  by  knit- 
ting machines  or  frames,  or  knit 
by  hand,  including  such  as  are 
commercially  known  as  seamless 
or  clocked  stockings,  hose  and  half 
hose,  finished  or  unfinished: 
Valued  at  not  more  than  $1  per 
dozen  pairs 

2,914,982 
1,056,005 

995,822 

58,315 

14,951 

3,994 

2,046,376 
1,106,616 

1,105,185 

65,227 

14,807 

4,681 

1,091,484 
733,369 

817, 150 

48,336 

10,609 

3,135 

846,686 
558,523 

588,402 

26,869 

7,235 

3,183 

640,793 
422, 3tW 

579,437 

25,682 

6,712 

3,346 

Valued  at  more  than  $1  and  not 
more  than  $1 .50  per  dozen  pairs. 

Valued  at  more  than  $1.50  and 
not  more  than  $2  per  dozen 
pairs 

0  60,310 
0  58,909 

Valued  at  more  than  $2  and  not 
more  than  $3  per  dozen  pairs. . 

Valued  at  more  than  $3  and  not 
more  than  $5  per  dozen  pairs. . . 

Valued  at  more  than  $5  per 
dozen  pairs 

oilt>,043 

OH,  714 

«999 

«702 

b 143, 607 

6  675,498 

b  787, 079 

/     o 13,213 
\  6  334,297 

Valued  at  not  more  than  $0.70 
per  dozen  pairs 

Valued  at  more  than  $0.70  and 
not  more  than  $1.20  per  dozen 
pairs 

Valued  at  more  than  $1.20  per 
dozen  pairs 

Made    on    knitting    machines    or 
frames,  not  otherwise  provided  for 
(cut-out  hose) 

23,933 

134,891 

229,046 

318,743 

350,658 

Total 

5,068,002 

4,477,783 

2,933,129 

O   QJO   A^l         ^   noo    ncii     1 

2,194,371 

*,u^o, »oi 

«  Period  from  July  1  to  Oct.  3, 1913. 
218 


b  Period  from  Oct.  4, 1913,  to  June  30, 1914. 


Table  76.— Quantity  and  Value  op  Hosiery  Made  of  Cotton  or  Other  Vege- 
table Fiber  Imported  for  Consumption  During  the  Fiscal  Years  Ending 
June  30,  1909-1914— Continued. 

VALUE. 


Articles. 

1909 

1910 

1911 

1912 

1913 

1914 

Selvaged,  fashioned^  narrowed,  or 
shaped  wholly  or  m  part  by  knit- 
ting machines  or  frames,  or  knit  by 
hand^  including  such  as  are  com- 
mercially known  as  seamless  or 
clocked  stockings,  hose  and  half 
hose,  finished  or  imflnished: 
Valued  at  not  more  than  $1  per 
dozen  pairs 

$2,777,715 
1,475,472 

1,881,515 
153,215 

58,088 
27,969 

$1,901,121 
1,526,256 

2,056,759 

173,517 

57, 727 

31,337 

$986,841 
1,006,287 

1,516,921 

123,807 

40,48:j 

22,17:j 

$754,704 
762,051 

1,099,172 
69,828 
28,629 
23,228 

$572,397 
586,652 

1,099,517 
67,090 
26,326 
23,667 

a $55, 320 
0  80,117 

0  225,853 

o9,622 

o3,986 

o4,9S4 

&90,563 

«>  690, 130 

b 1,610,206 

/       o8,495 
\   6  170,402 

Valued  at  more  than  $1  and  not 
more  than  $1 .50  per  dozen  pairs. 

Valued  at  more  than  $1.50  and 
not  more  than  $2  per  dozen 
pairs 

Valued  at  more  than  $2  and  not 
more  than  $3  per  dozen  pairs.. 

Valued  at  more  than  $3  and  not 
more  than  $5  per  dozen  pairs . . . 

Valued  at  more  than  $5  per 
dozen  pairs 

Valued  at  not  more  than  $0.70 
per  dozen  pairs 

Valued  at  more  than  $0.70  and 
not  more  than  $1.20  per  dozen 
pairs 

Valued  at  more  than  $1.20  per 
dozen  pairs 

Made    on    knitting    machines    or 
frames,  not  otherwise  provided  for 
(cut-out  hose) 

16,947 

78,383 

128i507 

174,788 

178,265 

Total 

6,390,921 

5,825,100 

3,824,969 

2,912,400 

2,553,914 

2,»49,678 

a  Period  from  July  1  to  Oct.  3, 1913.  b  Period  from  Oct.  4, 1913,  to  June  30, 1914. 

The  statistics  of  imports  that  appear  in  this  report  do  not  include 
very  small  imports  from  the  Phihppines,  on  which  no  duty  is  paid, 
nor  very  small  imports  from  Cuba,  which  are  admitted  at  20  per  cent 
less  than  the  regular  tariff  rates. 

RATES   OF  DUTY  UNDER   RECENT  TARIFF  ACTS. 

In  examining  Table  76  it  should  be  remembered  that  three  tariff  acts 
were  in  force  during  the  six  fiscal  years  from  1909  to  1914.  The  act  of 
1897  (Dingley  Act)  remained  in  effect  until  August  4,  1909.  The 
act  of  1909  (rayne-Aldrich  Act)  was  in  effect  from  August  5,  1909, 
to  October  3, 1913.  The  act  of  1913  (Underwood-Simmons  Act)  went 
into  effect  October  4,  1913.  The  rates  of  duty  on  cotton  hosiery 
under  these  acts  are  shown  in  Table  77. 

Table  77. — Rates  op  Duty  on  Cotton  Hosiery  Under  Tariff  Acts  of  1897   1909 

and  1913. 


Valued,  per  dozen  pairs,  at— 


Not  more  than  $1. 


More  than  $1  and  not  more  than 

$1.50. 
More  than  $1.50  and  not  more  than 

$2. 
More  than  $2  and  not  more  than  $3. 

More  than  $3  and  not  more  than  $5. . 

More  than  $5 

Not  more  than  70  cents 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more 

than  $1.20. 

More  than  $1.20 

Not  otherwise  provided  for  (cutout 

hose). 


Dingley  Act,  July  24, 1897, 
to  Aug.  4, 1909. 


50  cents  per  dozen+15  per 

cent. 
60  cents  per  dozen+15  per 

cent. 
70  cents  per  dozen+15  per 

cent. 
$1.20  per   dozen+15   per 

cent. 
$2  per  dozen+15  per  cent. . 
55  per  cent 


30  per  cent. 


Payne- Aldrich  Act,  Au".  5, 
I'm,  to  Oct.  3, 1913. 


70  cents  per  dozen  +15  per 

cent. 
85  cents  per  dozen+15  per 

cent. 
90  cents  per  dozen+15  per 

cent. 
$1.20  per   dozen+15   per 

cent. 
$2  per  dozen+15  per  cent . . 
55  per  cent 


30  per  cent. 


Underwood- 
Simmons 
Act,  Oct.  4, 
1913. 


Percent. 


30 
40 

m 


220 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


Tabic  76,  which  states  the  quantity  and  value  of  inn)ortations  of 
hosiery,  shows  that  the  importations  during  the  last  full  year  that  the 
Vmglej  Act  was  m  force,   the  fiscal   year  ending  June  M    1909 
amounted  to  $6,390,921,  and  were  much  larger  thin  for  any' of  the 
years  following.  ij>  ^  luc 

As  shown  by  the  Census  of  Manufactures,  the  production  of  cotton 
«?on^  o'l7  a**  ^u**'-''  ^^''^'^  amounted  in  the  calendar  year  1909,  to 

7n  «fi  wn  oo?  "  3™??'"*''*'°°^  °^  ^"•■''  ^°^'^^y  in  1^"9.  amounting 

to  $6,390,921,  were  11.43  per  cent  of  the  production  in  1909,  but  they 

have  decreased  to  less  than  one-half  of  what  they  were  in  tliat  year. 
Ihe  importations  in  the  fiscal  year  1914,  amounting  to  $2  949  678 
were  only  5.28  per  cent  of  the  production  in  1909.  xi.i.U  no  stW 
known^tb^r^  production  in  later  years  are  avaUabTe,  it  is  well 
known  that  many  old  hosiery  mills  hav  increased  their  output  and 
many  new  hosiery  miUs  have  begun  operations  in  the  last  five  years. 
Iherelorc,  the  percentage  of  importations  of  hosiery  compared  with 
theproduction  m  the  Umted  States  is  now  smaUer  than  ,5.28  per  cent 
Ihe  imports  of  cotton  hosierj^  for  consumption  during  tlie  fiscal 
year  1914  amounted  to  $2,949,678,  and  those  of  other  cotton  knit 
goods,  except  gloves,  to  .$341,973,  the  total  being  $3,201,651  The 
amount  of  exports  is  not  given  separately  for  hosiery  and  other  knit 
goods,  but  the  exports  of  all  cotton  knit  goods  amounted  I  o  $2,546  8'2 
during  the  fiscal  year  1914.  ,j^",o.^ 

nf  In?  rPi?'*^  °f  l^®  ^"'■''"^  °*  *^**  ^™^"«  ^o  not  show  the  production 
of  fuU-f ashioned  hosiery  separately  from  the  production  o^  seamless 
hosiery  It  is  known,  however,  that  in  the  United  States  the  production 
ot  seamless  hosiery  is  very  much  greater  than  the  production  of  full- 
tashioned  hosieiy  Davison'sHosiery  and  Knit  GooSs  Trade  Directory 
shows  that  in  1914  there  were  in  the  United  States  93  mills  knitting 
luil-fashioned  hosiery  and  647  knitting  seamless  hosiery 
t:„on"P'''"''*'^/^7  ^'"^*'  seamless  hosiery  is  made  in  Euroi)e,  and  prac- 
4f^Z  °  T^  ""^  It  except  hose  for  infants,  is  imported  into  the  uSited 
States,  rhe  cost  of  labor  m  the  manufacture  of  seamless  hosiery  is 
comparatively  smaU,  as  the  circular  maclunes  on  which  such  hosferv 
is  knit  are  largely  automatic,  and  are  operated  by  girls  who  each 
attend  to  from  4  to  16  machines.     For  t&s  reason  th"  labrcosris 

J^uIa  ^SfV*"^  'i"^''  seamless  hosiery  has  been  imported  into  the 
Umted  States  under  any  tanflT,   mcluding  the  act  of   1913      The 

fnvZl.''^J,ZT^l^^  seamless  hosiery  are  nearly  all  made  in  America. 
i<oreign  manufacturers  of  hosiery  have  not  invested  largely  in  such 
machines  as  there  is  httle  demand  for  seamless  hosiery  in  the  coun- 
tries to  which  they  export  goods. 

In  the  manufacture  of  full-fashioned   hosiery  the  labor  cost   is 
higher  m  proportioii  to  the  total  cost  than  in  the  manufacture  of 
seamless  hosiery.     Each  fuU-f ashioned  machine  is  attentled  by  a  man 
U^  fLI^^"^^   "^"""^f  ""^  "^^^  eiriplojs  a  helper.    As  labor  is  cheape; 

.7     vP   ■  "^  Amenca,  foreign  manufacturers  of  fuU-f ashioned 

cotton  hosiery  are  able  to  compete  with  the  manufacturers  in  the 
United  Stat^.  Nearly  aU  of  the  importations  of  hosiery  ar<^  of  the 
o^'I^HT  f^^''  '"'•'^  "^^"^^  of  cotton,  which  seUs  at  popular  prices 
under  tli/'"ff'  ""  J^T .^\  J^^^'K  The  increase  in  the"^ importations 
under  the  tariff  act  of  1913  has  been  almost  entirely  in  tins  class  of 


a  Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactures,  Vol.  VIII,  p.  393. 


FOREIGN    TRADE. 


221 


Full-fashioned  hosiery  is  preferred  ])v  many  pcM>ple,  especially 
women,  because  it  hts  better  than  does  seamless  hosiery.  While 
iTnder  Ihe  new  Tariff  the  imports  of  seamless  hosiery  continued  to  be 
practically  nothing,  the  imports  of  full-fashioned  hosiery  made  of 
cotton  somewhat  increased,  for  the  reason  that  some  people  will  buy 
full-fashioned  hosiery  at  25  to  50  cents  rather  than  pay  the  same 
price  for  seandess  hosiery.  To  some  extent,  therefore,  American 
manufacturers  of  cotton  hosiery,  whether  seamless  or  full  fashioned, 
had  a  slightly  increased  foreign  competition  from  the  time  that  the 
new  tariff  act  went  into  effect  (Oct.  4,  1913)  to  the  beginning  of  the 
war  in  Europe  on  about  August  1,  1914,  but,  as  stated  before,  this 
mcrease  was  insignificant  when  compared  with  the  total  production 
in  the  United  States. 

No  tariff  act  has  ever  made  a  distinction  between  the  rate  of  duty    / 
on  full-fashioned  hosiery  and  seamless  hosiery.  / 

IMPORTS  DURING  RECENT  YEARS. 

During  the  fiscal  year  1913  the  importations  for  consumption  of 
cotton  hosiery  were  $2,553,914,  and  during  the  fiscal  year  1914  they 
were  $2,949,078,  an  increase  of  $395,764,  or  15.5  per  cent.  This 
mcrease  may  be  accounted  for  in  part  by  the  lower  duties  that  pre- 
yailed  for  about  nine  months  from  October  4,  1913,  to  June  30,  1914, 
and  in  part  by  the  fact  that  in  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,'  1913^ 
foreign  goods  were  held  back  from  entry  into  the  United  States  to 
some  extent  in  anticipation  of  lower  rates  of  duty.  The  imports  of 
hosiery  for  consumption  in  the  fiscal  year  1914  were  much  less  than 
m  1909,  1910,  1911,  or  (in  respect  to  quantity)  1912. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  under  the  >ayne-Aldrich  Act  the 
equivalent  ad  valorem  rates  of  duty  on  low-priced  hosiery  were 
higher  than  on  the  higher  priced  hosiery,"  the  bulk  oi  the  importations 
under  that  act  was  of  the  grade  of  hosiery  valued  at  $2  or  less  per 
dozen.  Under  the  Payne-Aldrich  Act,  as  well  as  under  the  Under- 
wood-Smimons  Act,  a  large  part  of  the  importations  of  hosiery  con- 
sisted of  full-fashioned  socks  for  children  or  infants,  which  are  not 
manufactured  at  all  in  the  United  States. 

The  quantity  and  yalue  of  general  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  uito  the 
United  States  from  specified  countries  during  the  five  fiscal  years 
from  1910  to  1914,  inclusiye,  are  shown  in  Table  78. 

Table  78.— Quantity  and  Value  op  General   Imports   of  Cotton  Stockincs 
Hose,  and  Half  Hose  During  the  Fiscal  Years  Ended  June  30  1910-1914' 
BY  Countries.  '  ' 


Countries  from 
which  imported. 


France 

Germany 

Japan 

Spain 

Switzerland 

United  Kingdom: 

England. 

Scotland 

Ireland 

other  countries 


Total... 


Dozen  pairs.  & 


1911 


8,934 
2, 718, 772 
9 
8,520 
42 

13,493 

2 

138 

1,479 


1912 


6,. 572 

2,202,50o 

7 

3,409 

2 

13,64t) 

4 

113 

991 


1913 


7,387 
2,131,678 
4 
687 


14,301 

12 

119 

223 


1914 


8,977 

2,375,494 

14 

12,364 


17,381 

1 

222 

4,948 


Vakie. 


1910 


2,  751 ,  477  2, 227, 249  2, 1 54 .  11 1  2.  419.  401 


5,815,403 


1911 


$56,214 

$30. 484 

5,705,073 

3,5-38,592 

813 

62 

6, 148 

4,044 

574 

158 

44,3(>3 

39,619 

37 

10 

1,470 

460 

711 

1,724 

1912 


3,615,1.53 


$28. 882 
2,713,813 
11 
1,730 
3 

39,  S2ti 

3 

590 

1,310 


2, 786,  KVS 


1913 


$30,18,1 


1914 


$3.j,6S3 


2,631,218  3,050,939 


6 
355 


41,006 

48 
790 
23«i 


24 

6,068 


42,942 

6 

718 

8,26,5 


2,703,,S44i3,144,&45 


a  See  average  ad  valorem  rates  of  duty  in  Table  80  on  p.  225  of  thLs  report 
b  Quantities  not  stated  prior  to  191 1 .  « «^puri . 


il 


222 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


ft  J^lf  w!f  r  ^^^"^^^"^  the  total  for  each  year  shown  in  this  table 

for  bl  ?he  w/tj;  T^K-^flf^^T  ">  ^'?'«  76  (p.  219)  is  accounted 
tor  by  the  fact  that  this  table  shows  the  importations  for  immediate 

XSrv^P^"' .!?"?''  '""^'''-^  ^  ''""d^d  warehouses'  S  the 
other  table  shows  the  importations  for  immediate  consuiption  nlus 
those  withdrawn  from  bonded  warehouses  «i«umpuon  pius. 

rlL^^^  ^%  obserred  that  the  bulk  of  the  importations  are  from 
Germany      In  the  fiscal  year  1913  the  value  of  hosiery  imported 

Ece'Ind  Clanf    ""'''  '''  *'^  "'^^^'^•'■-  ^^  ^P-*^^  from 

deSS  l^son^^'ny'^r*'  ^^^^  *?  importations  of  cotton  hosiery 
decreased  1,300,507  dozen  pau^,  valued  at  $1,496,781 .    The  importa- 

Table  79  shows  the  importations  of  cotton  hosieir  of  different 
classified  values  durmg  the  21  fiscal  yoai«  from  1894  to  1914  durk^* 

Sote  ^"^  *"''  ''^  *^^°'  *«''^^'  1«^7'  1909'  and  1913  wSS 

PORTED  FOB  CONSUMPTION  DUBING  THE  FiSCAL  YeABS  EnDED  Jcn™1894  TO 

TARIFF  ACT  OF  1890. 
Valued  not  more  than  60  cents  per  dozen  pairs. 


Fiscal  year 
ended  June  30— 


1894. 
1895. 


Rate  of  duty. 


20  cents  per  dozen  and  20  per 

cent. 
...do 


Quantity. 


Dozen  pairs 
941,388 

156,696 


Value. 


1551,541 
90,889 


Duty  col- 
lected. 


$298,586 
49,517 


Average 

valua 

per 

dozen 

pairs. 


$0.59 
..18 


Average 
ari 

valorem 
raid  of 
duty. 


Per  eeru. 
54.14 

54.48 


Valued  more  than  60  cents  and  not  mor,  than  i2  per  dozen  pairs. 


1894. 
1895. 


50  cents  per  dozen  and  30  per 

cent. 
....do 


2,390,093 
175,855 


$2,853,817 
195,200 


$2,051,192 

146,488 


$1.19 
1.11 


71.88 
75.08 


Valued  more  than  t2  and  not  more  than  H  per  dozen  pairs. 


1894. 

1895. 
1897. 


75  cents  per  dozen  and  40  per 

cent. 
....do 

....do : 


68,926 

2,429 
293 


$184,447 

6,761 
886 


$125,473 

4,526 
574 


$2.68 

2.78 
3.03 


68.03 

6«}.90 
64,76 


Valued  more  than  t4  per  dozen  pairs. 


1894. 
1895. 


$1  per  dozen  and  40  per  cent . 
do 


7,345 
295 


$43,939 
1,971 


TARIFF  ACT  OF  1894. 
A II  values. 


$24,921 
1,083 


1895. 
1896. 
1897. 
1898. 


50  per  cent. 

do 

do 

....do 


5,485,368 

5,181,506 

5,387,960 

326,075 


15, 798, 552 

■'j,605,241 

5,483,996 

337,678 


$2,899,276 

2, 802, 621 

2,741,998 

168,839 


$1.0^16 

50.00 

1.08 

5JI.00 

1.02 

50.00 

1.04 

50.00 

FOREIGN   TRADE. 


223 


Table  79.— Cotton  Stockings,  Hose  and  Half  Hose,  Selvedged,  Fashioned 
Narrowed,  or  Shaped  Wholly  or  in  Part  by  Knitting  Machines  or  Frames' 
or  Knit  by  Hand,  Including  Such  as  are  Commercially  Known  as  Seamless 
OR  Clocked  Stockings,  Hose,  or  Half  Hose,  Finished  or  Unfinished  Im- 
ported for  Consumption  During  the  Fiscal  Years  Ended  June  30,  1894  to 
1913 — Contmued. 

TARIFF  acts  OF  1897  AND  1909. 
Valued  not  more  than  $1  per  dozen  pairs. 


Fiscal  year 
ended  June  30— 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Duty  col- 
lected. 

Average 

value 

per 

dozen 

pairs. 

Averajre 
ad 

valorem 
rate  of 
duty. 

1898 

50  cents  per  dozen  and  15  per 

cent. 
do 

Dnzenryiirf. 
1,729,160 

2,115,099 
2,138,003 
1,642,889 
1,841,672 
1,992,685 
2,231,380 
2,342,901 
2,501,679 
2,449,278 
1,879,988 
2,914,982 
628,801 
1,417,575 

1,091,485 
846,686 
640,793 

$1,533,153 

1,922,589 
1,977,321 
1.576.356 
1,749,592 
1,893,048 
2,142,013 
2,236,114 
2,342,844 
2,350,250 
1,817,305 
2,777,715 
599,365 
1,301,756 

986,841 
754,704 
572,397 

$1,094,552 

1,345,938 
1,365,600 
1,057,898 
1,183,275 
1,280,300 
1,436,992 
1,506,868 
1,602,266 
1,577,176 
1,212,590 
1,874,148 
404,305 
1,187,565 

912,066 
705, 886 
534,415 

$0,887 

.925 

.959 

.95 

.95 

.959 

.954 

.936 

.96 

.967 

.953 

.953 

.918 

.904 
.891 
.893 

Percent. 

1899 

7L40 

1900 

do 

70.01 

1901 

do 

69.06 

1902 

do 

67.11 

1903 

do 

67.63 

1904 

do 

67.63 

1905 

do 

67.09 

1906 

do 

67.39 

1907 

do 

68.39 

1908 

do..... 

67.11 

1909 

do 

66.72 

1910 

do 

67.47 

1910 

70  cents  per  dozen  and  15  per 
cent. 

67.46 

1911 

91.23 

1912 

do 

92.42 

1913 

do 

93.53 

93.36 

1898. 

1899. 
1900. 
1901. 
1902. 
1903. 
1904. 
1905. 
1906. 
1907. 
1908. 
1909. 
1910. 
1910. 


1911. 
1912. 
1913. 


1898. 

1899. 
1900. 
1901. 
1902. 
1903. 
1904. 
1905. 
1906. 
1907. 
1908. 
1909. 
1910. 
1910. 


1911. 
1912. 
1913. 


Valued  more  than  tl  and  not  more  than  91.50  per  dozen  pairs. 


60  cents  per  dozen  and  15  per 
cent. 

do 

do 

do 

do 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


85  cents  per  dozen  and  15  per 

cent. 

...do 

..-.do 

...do 


586,875 

696, 627 

744,074 

957,951 

706, 677 

698,668 

910,993 

955,115 

1,052,835 

1,15.5,694 

1,347,873 

1,056,005 

279,085 

827,531 

733,369 
558, 523 
422,364 


$751,992 

902,420 

948, 215 

1,255,349 

940,  (ViS 

929,9:.'3 

1,249,312 

l,312,5.'il 

1,463,286 

1,600,6:^5 

1,852,263 

1,475,472 

380,082 

1,146,174 

1,006,236 
762,051 
586,652 


$465,375 

553,310 
588,677 
763,073 
565, 106 
558,690 
733,993 
769,950 
851,194 
933,512 
1,086.564 
854, 924 
224,463 
875,328 

774,300 
589,052 
447,007 


$1.28 

1.30 
1.27 
1.31 
1.31 
1.33 
1.37 
1.37 
1.39 
1.37 
1.37 
1.40 
1.36 
1.39 

1.37 
1.36 
L39 


Valued  more  than  il.50  and  not  more  than  $2  per  dozen  pairs. 


70  cents  per  dozen  and  15  per 
cent. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
-do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


90  cents  per  dozen  and  15  per 

cent. 
do 


.do. 
.do. 


341,014 

392, 847 
481,150 
743,661 
747,328 
871,435 
803,202 

802. 149 
96.5,349 

1.330,227 

1, 423. 546 

995, 822 

182,385 

922,800 

517. 150 

588, 402 
579, 427 


$633,125 

731.371 
898, 179 
1,412.656 
1,432,186 
1,665,880 
1,535,955 
1,511,903 
1,865,238 
2,557,341 
2,701,166 
1,881,515 
347,629 
1,709,130 

1,516,921 
1,099,172 
1,099,517 


$333,679 

384,699 

471.532 

732, 461 

737, 958 

859,886 

792, 635 

7S8,290 

955,530 

1,314,760 

1,401,657 

979,303 

179,814 

1,086,890 

962, 973 
694,437 
686,412 


$1.86 

1.86 
1.87 
1.89 
1.92 
L91 
L90 
1.88 
1.93 
1.92 
1.90 
L89 
1.91 
1.85 

1.S6 
1.87 
1.90 


61.64 

61.32 
62.08 
60.78 
60.08 
60.08 
58.72 
58.66 
">8. 17 
58.32 
58.66 
57.94 
59.06 
76.37 

76.95 
77.30 
72.20 


52.70 

52.60 
52.50 
51.85 
5L53 
51.62 
51.60 
52.14 
51.23 
51.41 
51.89 
52.05 
51.73 
63.50 

63.48 
63.18 
62.43 


224 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTKY. 


TARIFF  ACTS  OF  1897  AND  1909-Contmued. 
Valued  more  than  t2  and  not  more  than  $3  per  dozen  pahs. 


Fiscal  year 
ended  June  30— 


Rate  of  duty. 


1898. 

1899. 
1900. 
1901. 
1902. 
1903. 
1904. 
1905. 
1906. 
1907. 
1908. 
1909- 
1910. 
1911. 
1912. 
1913. 


«1.20  per  dozen  and  15  per 
cent. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
-do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


Quantity. 


Dozen  pains. 
66,413 

72,957 

82,223 

118,  UU 

144,  rm 

165,3:13 

108,  m) 

90, 9H2 

107,  .541 

131, 4;« 

111,282 

58,315 

65,227 

48,336 

26,869 

25,682 


Value. 


1168,971 

187,076 
215,556 
317, 153 
388, 781 
450,837 
292,741 
244,982 
288,185 
354, 189 
291,830 
153,215 
173,517 
123,807 
69,829 
67,090 


Duty  col- 
lected . 


$105,040 

115,610 

131,001 

189,328 

231,757 

266,025 

174,268 

145,902 

172,277 

210.848 

177.313 

92,9«i0 

104.3(J0 

76.575 

42,717 

40,882 


A  verage 

value 

per 

dozen 

pairs. 


Valued  more  than  tS  and  not  more  than  95  per  dozen  pairs. 


1898. 

1899. 

1900. 

1901. 

1902. 

1903. 

1904. 

1905. 

1906. 

1907. 

1908. 

1909. 

1910. 

1911. 

1912. 

1913. 


$2  per  dozen  and  15  per  cent 
do 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
-do. 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


22,329 
21, 103 
22,76<i 
33,041 
38,60*i 
45,37*1 
32,671 
22,508 
26, 135 
28,578 
34,214 
14,951 
14,807 
10,609 
7,23r» 

6,712 


187,224 

81,493 

88,794 

133,935 

153,807 

181,232 

132, 393 

89,381 

104,014 

114,626 

132,717 

58,088 

57, 727 

40,483 

28,629 

26,326 


18,764 
17,374 


Valued  more  than  $5  per  dozen  pairs. 


1898. 
1899. 
1900. 
1901. 
1902- 
1903. 
1904. 
1905. 
1906. 
1907. 
1908. 
1909. 
1910. 
1911. 
1912. 
1913. 


55  per  cent. 

do 

....do 

do 

....do 

....do 

-...do 

...-do 

....do 

..--do 

..--do 

....do 

....do 

--.-do 

....do 

....do 


8,230 

8,521 

11,270 

17,918 
17,622 
10, 788 
4,238 
5,785 
6,380 
6,428 
3,994 
4,681 
3,135 
3,183 
3,345 


$51,935 
57,924 
64,580 
100, 619 
109,894 
116,337 
70,567 
28,997 
40,009 
42,356 
41, 704 
27,969 
31,337 
22, 173 
23,228 
23,667 


$28,  ,'564 
31,8.58 
41,019 
55,340 
60,442 
63,98r. 
38,812 
15,94>« 
22,  Od."-* 
23,2{>6 
22,937 
15,383 
17,235 
12,Ut.-, 
12,775 
13,017 


$2.54 


2.56 
2.62 
2.68 
2.69 
2.73 


A  verajre 
ad  ^ 

\alorem 
rate  of 
duty. 


2.69 
2.69 
2.68 
2.69 
2.62 
2.63 
2.66 
2.56 
2.60 
2.62 


$57,736 

$3.90 

54,430 

3.86 

58,K51 

3.90 

86, 173 

4.05 

100, 2M2 

3.98 

117, 937 

3.99 

85,  WK 

4.06 

58, 423 

3.97 

67,871 

3.98 

74,350 

4.01 

88,3;}6 

3.88 

38,616 

3.89 

38,274 

3.90 

27,  289 

3.82 

3.96 
3.92 


Per  cent. 
62.1 

61.80 

60.77 

59.69 

59.61 

59.01 

59.  52 

59. 5<i 

59.78 

59.53 

60.75 

60.67 

60.11 

61.85 

61.17 

60.94 


66.19 

66.79 

66.28 

64.33 

()5. 20 

65.08 

64.21 

65. 3t> 

65. 2>. 

64.86 

66.56 

66.48 

66.30 

67.41 

65.54 

65.99 


$6.31 

55.00 

6.80 

55.00 

6.62 

55.00 

5.89 

55.00 

6. 13 

55.00 

6.60 

55.00 

6.54 

55.00 

6.84 

55.00 

6.92 

55.00 

6.64 

55.00 

6.49 

55.00 

7.00 

55.00 

6.69 

55.00 

7.07 

55.00 

7.20 

55.00 

7.07 

55.00 

FOREIGN    TRADE. 


225 


Table  80.— Cotton  Stockings,   Hose  and    Half    Hose,   Made    on    Knitting 
Machines  or  Frames  and  not    Specially    Provided  for  (Cut-out  Hose) 
Imported  for  Consumption  During  the  Fiscal  Years  Ended  June  30  1894' 
to  1913.  '  ' 


Fiscal  year 

ended 
Jime  30^ 


1894. 

1895. 

1896. 
1897. 
1898. 
1S99. 
1900. 
1901- 
1902- 
1903- 
1904- 
1905. 
1906- 
1907. 
1908- 
1909- 
1910. 
1911. 
1912. 
1913- 


Rate  of  duty. 


Quantity. 


35  per  cent . 

r...-do 

(30  per  cent . 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

..-.do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

---.do 

---.do 

....do 

do 

.-..do 

-...do 

.---do 


69,184 

4,848 

96,012 

33,774 

13,927 

20,736 

21,055 

8,619 

6,967 

23, 191 

22,939 

22,213 

14,159 

31,436 

27,141 

25,789 

23,933 

134,891 

229,046 

31S, 744 

350, 658 


Average 

Valu© 

Duty 

value  per 

collected. 

dozen 
pair. 

a  $37, 114 

$12,990 

$0.54 

o  2, 561 

896 

.53 

39,844 

11,953 

.41 

18, 495 

5,549 

.55 

6,179 

1,854 

.44 

16,254 

4,876 

.784 

13,038 

3,911 

.619 

5,110 

i,5:« 

.593 

3,039 

912 

.436 

11,485 

3,446 

.495 

10, 12a 

3,038 

.441 

7,92d 

2,378 

.357 

7, 134 

2,140 

.504 

15,620 

4,686 

.497 

16,001 

4,800 

.59 

18,091 

5,427 

.711 

16,947 

5,084 

.708 

78,383 

23,515 

.581 

128,  .507 

38,552 

.561 

174, 788 

52,436 

.548 

178,265 

53,479 

.508 

Average 
ad  valo- 
rem rate 
of  duty. 


35.00 
35.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 

moo 

30.00 
30.00 
:30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 

;jo.oo 

30.00 
30.00 


a  Valued  not  more  than  $1.50  per  dozen  (act  of  1890). 

Table  81  summarizes  the  importations  of  cotton  hosiery  of  all 
classified  values  during  the  fiscal  year  1913. 

Table  81.— Quantity,  Value,  Duty  Collected,  Average  Price,  Rate  of  Di-ty 
AND  Equivalent  Ad  Valorem  Rate  op  Duty  for  Cotton  Hosiery  Imported 
FOR  Consumption  During  the  Fiscal  Year  Ended  June  30   1913 


Valued,  x)er  dozen 
pairs,  at — 


Not  more  than  .?1 . . . 

$1.01  to  $1.50 

$1.51  to  $2 

$2.01  to  $3 

$3.01  to  $5 

More  than  $5 

Not  otherwise  pro- 
vided for  (cut-out 
hose). 


Total. 


Rate  of  duty. 


70  cents  per  dozen +15  per  cent. 
85  cents  per  dozen +15  per  cent. 
90  cents  per  dozen +15  per  cent- 
$1.20  per  dozen+15  per  cent. . . 

$2  per  dozen+15  per  c«nt 

55  per  cent 

30  per  cent 


Quantity, 


Dozen 

pair.'t. 

640,793 

422,364 

579, 427 

25,682 

6,712 

3,345 

350,6.58 


Value. 


$572,397 

586,652 

1,099,517 

67,090 

26,326 

23,667 

178,265 


2,028,981   2,553,914 


Duty 
collected. 


$5.34,415 
447,007 
686,412 
40,882 
17,374 
13,017 
53,479 


1,792,586 


Average 

value  per 

dozen 

pairs. 


$0,893 
1.39 
1.90 
2.62 
3.92 
7.07 
.508 


1.259 


-\  verage 
ad  valo- 
rem rate 
of  duty. 


Per  cent. 
93.36 
76.20 
62.43 
60.94 
65.99 
55.00 
30.00 


70.19 


The  foregomg  table  for  the  last  full  year  that  the  Payne-Aldrich 
Act  was  m  force  shows  that  under  that  act  the  equivalent  ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty  was  higher  on  cotton  hosiery  of  lower  price  than  on  the 
hmher-priced  grades.  The  average  rate  collected  on  the  grades 
valued  at  $1  per  dozen  or  less  was  93.36  per  cent:  the  average  rate 
for  all  grades  was  70.19. 


91)f,3°_15. 


-15 


# 


(jJ|LL 


226 


THE  HOSIERY    INDUSTRY. 


Table  82  shows  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  oi  various  o^rades 
entered  for  consumption  during  each  quarter  of  tlu^  last  year  of  tho 
tariff  act  of  1909— that  is,  from  October  1,  1912,  to  October  3    1913 
inclusive— together  with  the  duty  coUected   and    the   ad  valorem' 
eqmvalent  of  the  specific  and  ad  valorem  rates  of  duty. 

Table  82.— Quantity  and  Value  op  Cotton  Hosiery  Imported  for  Consump- 
tion, AND  Duty  Paid  Thereon,  under  the  Tariff  Act  ok  1909  by  Oumiteh-^ 
FROM  Oct.  1,  1912,  to  Oct.  3,  1913,  incluhive.  '        Wuarter^, 


Imports  for  consumption.                           iini  es  of  dut y . 

Grades. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Duty 
col- 
lected. 

Schedule  rate. 

Average 

ad 
valorem 
equiva- 
lent. 

Amount. 

I'er  cent 
of  total. 

Oct.  1, 1912,  to  Dec.  31, 1912: 
Fashioned  and  seamless  ho- 
siery valued,  per   dozen 
pairs,  at — 
Not  more  than  $1 

Dozen 
pairs. 
125,013 

88,548 

108,637 

4,466 

1,079 

655 
27,950 

$114,584 
123,548 

207,079 

11,620 

4,291 

4,674 
14,296 

23.  87 
25.74 

43.13 

2.42 

.89 

.97 
2.98 

$104,697 
93, 798 

128,835 

7,103 

2,802 

2,570 
4,289 

70<'doz.+lV;i 

8ot  iloz.+l.r^ 

90<>doz.+1.5% 

$1.2iidoz.415%.... 

$2doz.+15% 

55% 

Per  cent. 

More  than  $1  and  not  more 

than  $1.50. 
More  than  $1.50  and   not 

more  than  $2. 
More  than  $2  and  not  more 

than  $3. 
More  than  $3  and  not  more 

than  $5. 
More  than  $5 

91. 37 
75.92 

62.22 

61.13 

a5.30 

Not    specially    provided    for 
(cut-out  hose). 

mv 

30 

Total 

356,348 

480,092 

100.00 

344,094 

- - 

71. 67 

Jan.  1, 1913,  to  Mar.  31, 1913: 
Fashioned  and  seamless  ho- 
siery  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 

Not  more  than  $1 

More  than  $1  and  not  more 
than  $1.50. 

More   than   $1.50   and    not 
more  than  $2. 

More  than  $2  and  not  more 
than  $3. 

More  than  $3  and  not  more 
than  $5. 

More  than  $5 

232,071 
114,186 

182,723 

7,501 

2,034 

1,213 
157,973 

200,548 
159,257 

343,650 

19, 762 

8,042 

8,361 
81,326 

24.43 
19.40 

41.86 

2.41 

.98 

1.02 
9.90 

192, 532 
120,946 

215,999 

11,966 

5,274 

4,598 
24,398 

70«(loz.+irt% 

Soi-  doz.+irf/o 

90f  doz.+i:.^^ 

$i2odoz.+  i:,%.... 

$2doz.-fl5% 

55'-; 

30'', 

96.  <K) 
75. 94 

62.  .So 

60.  :>") 

65.  ")S 

Not    specially    provided    for 
(cut-out  hose). 

55 
30 

Total 

697, 701 

820,946 

100.00 

575,713 

70. 13 

Apr.  1, 1913.  to  June  30, 1913: 
Fashioned  and   seamless   ho- 
siery  valued,   per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  $1 

121,804 
80,555 

132, 705 

5,470 

1,740 

602 
149,036 

110,023 
112, 126 

254,855 

14,317 

6,851 

4,196 
74,389 

19.07 
19.44 

44.19 

2.48 

1.19 

.73 
12.90 

101,766 
85,291 

157,663 

8,712 

4,507 

2,308 
22,317 

70<'«loz.-f-15f'; 

85eiJoz.-i-15% 

OOttfoz.+lS'^o 

$1.20doz.+  ir.%.... 

$2doz.+15rc 

55'; 

More  than  $1  and  not  more 

than  $1.50. 
More  than   $1.50  and   not 

more  than  $2. 
More  than  $2  jmd  not  more 

than  $3. 
More  than  $3  and  not  more 

than  $5. 
More  than  $5 

92.. 10 
76. 07 

61.  SO 

60.85 

65.79 

Not    specially    provided    for 
(cut-out  hose). 

55 

30^; 

30 

Total 

491,912 

576,757 

100.00 

382,564 

66.  :>i 

-^.l; — =^ 

aUffl 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


227 


Table  82.— Quantity  and  Value  of  Cotton  Hosiery  Imported  for  Consump- 
tion, AND  Duty  Paid  Thereon,  under  the  Tariff  Act  of  1909   hy  Ouartfrs 
from  Oct.  1,  1912,  to  Oct.  3,  1913,  iNCLUsiVE-Continued  '        ^^^«^*'««' 


Imports  for  consumption. 

Rates  of  duty. 

CJrades. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Duty 
col- 
lected. 

Schedule  rale. 

Average 

ad 
valorem 
equiva- 
lent. 

Amount. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Juhr  1, 1913,  to  Oct.  3, 1913: 
Fashioned  and  seamless  ho- 
siery valued,   per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  $1 

Dozen 
pairs. 
60,310 
58,909 

116,043 

3,714 

999 

702 
13,213 

253, 890 

r)5,320 
80,117 

225,853 

9,622 

3,986 

4,984 
8,495 

388, 377 

14.24 
20.63 

58.15 

2.48 

1.03 

1.28 
2.19 

100  00 

$50,515 
62,090 

138,316 

0,901 

2,596 

2,741 
2,548 

'2M   707 

70<:doz.4-15C; 

85<;doz.+l.')';^, 

90<'doz.+15% 

$1.20doz.+159J.... 

$2doz.+15% 

55% 

Per  cent. 

More  than  $1  and  not  more 

than  $1.50. 
More  than   $1.50  and   not 

more  than  $2. 
More  than  $2  and  not  more 

than  $3. 
More  than  $3  and  not  more 

than  $5. 
More  than  $5 

91.31 
77.50 

61.24 

61.3;j 

65.13 

Not    specially    provided    for 
(cut-out  hose). 

Total 

.=>5 

30% .'■ 

:io 

.>u 

Total.  Oct.  1, 1912,  to  Oct.  3, 1913: 
Fashioned  and  seamless  ho- 
siery  valued,   per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  $1 

539, 198 
342,198 

540, 108 

21, 151 

5,852 

3,172 
348,172 

480, 475 
475,048 

1,031,437 

55,321 

23, 170 

22,215 
178,506 

21.20 
20. 9t) 

45.52 

2.44 

1.02 

.98 
7.88 

449,510 
362, 125 

640,813 

;«,682 

15,179 

12,217 
53,552 

70<!doz.+15% 

8.5(tdoz.-fl5% 

90<!doz.+15% 

$1.20doz.+  lo' ;.... 

$2doz.+15% 

.55% 

68.16 

More  than  $1  and  not  more 

than  $1.50. 
More  than  $1.50   and   not 

more  than  $2. 
More  than  $2  and  not  more 

than  $3. 
More  than  $3  and  not  more 

than  $5. 
More  than  $5 

93.  .56 

7(1. 23 

ti2. 13 
60.  NS 
65.51 

Not    specially    provided    for 
(cut-out  hose). 

55 

30% 

30 

Total  for  12  months 

1,799,851 

2,26<i,172 

100.00 

1,567,078 

69.15 

As  may  be  ascertained  from  this  table,  the  imports  for  consump- 
tion ot  cotton  hosiery  durmg  the  last  year  of  the  tariff  act  of  1909 
amounted  to  $2,266,172,  and  the  hosiery  vdued  at  $2  or  less  per 
dozen  Dairs  amounted  to  $1,986,960,  or  87.68  per  cent.  During  that 
year  the  ad  valorem  eciuivalents  of  the  specific  and  ad  valorein  rates 
foUow  ^^^  '^  ^^^^  ^^  fashioned  and  seamless  hosiery  were  as 

Valued  at  not  more  than  $1 ^'^^aT^'-a 

Valued  at  more  than  $1  and  not  more  than  $i..50 -«  ?o 

Valued  at  more  than  $1.50  and  not  more  than  $2         «.,  7o 

Valued  at  more  than  $2  and  not  more  than  $3  an  H 

Valued  at  more  than  $3  and  not  more  than  $5  ?"  -? 

Valued  at  more  than  $5. .  ^^-  ^^ 

DO 

Table  83  shows  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiory  of  various  jrrados 

tariff  act  of  1913--that  is,  from  Octoter  4,  1913,  to  September  30, 
1914,  inclusive— together  with  the  duty  coUected  theW)n  at  ad 
valorem  rates;  totals  for  that  year;  also  the  same  figures  for  the 
quarters  endmg  December  31,  1914,  to  June  30,  1915 


228 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


Table  83. — Quantity  and  Value  op  Cotton  Hosiery  Imported  for  Consump- 
tion AND  Duty  Paid  Thereon,  under  the  Tariff  Act  op  11)13,  by  Quarters, 
from  Oct.  4,  1913,  to  June  30,  1915,  Inclusive. 


Imports  for  consumption. 

Grades. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Duty  col- 
lected. 

Rales  of 
duty. 

Amount. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Oct.  4, 1913,  to  Dec.  31, 1913: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at — 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

Dozen  pairs. 

10, 308 

143,828 

127,969 

43, 946 

$6,868 
145, 119 
402,339 

21, 477 

1.19 
25.20 
69.88 

3.73 

$2,060 

58,048 

201. 169 

4,296 

Per  cent. 

30 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1.20. 
More  than  $1.20 

40 
50 

20 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

Total 

326,051 

575,803 

100.00 

265. 573 

46.12 

Jan.  1, 1914,  to  Mar.  31, 1914: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

66,547 
303,812 
416, 938 
146, 136 

42,078 
309,909 
761,  725 

73,988 

3.54 

26.10 

64.14 

6.22 

12. 623 
123. 964 
380.862 

14,  798 

."Ml 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1.20 . 
More  than  $1 .20 

40 

.■in 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

20 

Total 

933,433 

1, 187, 700 

100.00 

532,247 

44  81 

Apr.  1, 1914.  to  June  30, 1914: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at — 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

66,753 
227,858 
242, 172 
144,215 

41,617 
235,102 
446,143 

74,937 

5.22 
29.47 
55.92 

9.39 

12.485 

94,041 

223, 072 

14,987 

30 
40 
50 
20 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1 .20 . 
More  than  $1.20 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

Total 

680,998 

797, 799 

100.00 

344,585 

43  19 

July  1, 1914,  to  Sept.  30, 1914: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at — 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

16,863 
114,059 
194,887 

21,222 

10,880 
136,538 
353,798 

10,173 

2.13 
26.70 
69.18 

1.99 

3,264 

54,615 

176.899 

2,034 

30 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1.20 . 
More  than  $1 .20 

40 

.■in 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

20 

Total 

347,031 

511,389 

100.00 

236, 812 

46  31 

Total,  Oct.  4, 1913,  to  Sept.  30.  1914: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

160,471 
789, 557 
981,966 
355, 519 

101,443 

826,668 

1,964,005 

180, 575 

3.30 

26.90 
63.92 

5.88 

30,432 
330, 668 
982,002 

36, 115 

30 

More  than  70cents  and  not  more  than  $1.20. 
More  than  $1.20 

40 
an 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

20 

Total  for  12  months 

2,287,513 

3,072,691 

100.00 

1,379,217 

44  89 

Oct.  1, 1914,  to  Dec.  31, 1914: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 

pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

4,234 

66,811 

106, 478 

18, 523 

2,790 

73,093 

193,960 

9,662 

1.00 
26.15 
69.39 

3.46 

■ 

837 

29,237 

96,  980 

1, 932 

30 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1 .20 . 
More  than  $1.20 

40 
50 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

20 

Total 

196,046 

279, 505 

100.00 

12S, 986 

46  15 

Jan.  1, 1915,  to  Mar.  31, 1915: 
Faslxioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at — 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

81,097 
198, 186 
152, 087 
132, 769 

51,644 
204,289 
272,232 

68,151 

8.66 
34.26 
45.65 
11.43 

15.493 

81,  716 

136.116 

13,630 

30 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1.20. 
More  than  $1.20 

40 
50 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

20 

Total 

564, 139 

596,316 

100.00 

246. 955 

41  41 

Apr.  1, 1915,  to  June  30, 1915: 
Fashioned  or  seamless,  valued,  per  dozen 
pairs,  at— 
Not  more  than  70  cents 

38,072 
85,442 
92,458 
71,5/8 

23,898 

90,187 

167,806 

36,245 

7.51 
28.35 
52.75 
11.39 

7,169 
36.075 
83.903 

7.249 

30 

More  than  70  cents  and  not  more  than  $1.20. 
More  than  $1 .20 

40 
50 

Not  specially  provided  for  (cut-out  hose) 

20 

Total 

287.550 

318,136 

100  00            Ti-i  "luft 

42  24 

•'"••>"«'" 

FOREIGN   TRADE. 


229 


Table  83  shows  that  the  vahie  of  im])ortAtions  of  cotton  hosiery 
during  the  first  year  of  the  new  tariff,  October  4,  1913,  to  September 
30,  1914,  was  $3,072,691,  as  compared  with  the  value  of  the  importa- 
tions of  cotton  hosiery  during  the  last  year  of  the  old  tariff,  Octo- 
ber 1,  1912,  to  October  3,  1913,  S2,266,172,  shown  in  Table  81,  an 
mcrease  of  35.59  per  cent. 

Table  83  further  shows  that  the  average  ad  valorem  rate  paid  on 
the  importations  during  the  first  year  of  the  new  tariff  was  44.89  per 
cent.  This  may  be  compared  with  the  duty  paid  on  importations 
during  the  last  full  year  of  the  Payne-Aldrich  Act,  the  year  ending 
October  3,  1913.  In  that  year  the  equivalent  of  an  ad  valorem  rate 
of  duty  collected  on  imports  of  all  grades  of  hosiery  was  69.15  per 
cent,  as  shown  in  Table  82. 

It  will  be  observed  that  in  both  Tables  82  and  83  the  imports 
increased  during  the  quarters  ended  March  31,  1913,  March  31,  1914, 
and  March  31,  1915,  over  the  previous  quarters,  decreased  during  the 
Quarters  ended  June  30,  1913,  June  30,  1914,  and  June  30,  1915,  and 
decreased  m  the  last  (juarters  ended  September  30,  1913  and  1914. 

The  totals  for  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  of  aU  grades  during 
the  year  ended  October  3,  1913,  and  the  year  ended  September  30, 
1914,  and  for  each  quarter  during  the  two  years  are  shown  in  Table  84. 

Table  84.— Quantity  and  Value  op  Cotton  Hosiery  Imported  for  Consump- 
tion AND  Duty  Paid  Thereon  from  Oct.  1,  1912,  to  Oct.  3,  1913,  Inclusive 
and  from  Oct.  4,  1913,  to  Sept.  30,  1914,  Inclusive 


Quarters. 


Oct.  1, 1912,  to  Dec.  31, 1912 

Oct.  4, 1913,  to  Dec.  31,  1913 

Jan.  1, 1913,  to  Mar.  31, 1913 

Jan.  1, 1914,  to  Mar.  31, 1914 

Apr.  1, 1913,  to  June  30, 1913 

Apr.  1, 1914,  to  June  30, 1914 

July  1, 1913,  to  Oct.  3, 1913 

July  1, 1914,  to  Sept.  30, 1914. 

Total,  Oct.  1, 1912,  to  Oct.  3, 1913.. 
Total,  Oct.  4, 1913,  to  Sept.  30,  1914 


Imports  for  consumption. 


Quantity. 


Dozen  pairs. 
356,348 
326,051 

697, 701 
933,433 

491,912 
680,998 

253,890 
347,031 


1,799,8.51 
2,287,513 


Value. 


1480,092 
575,803 

820,946 
1,187,700 

576,757 
797,799 

388,377 
511,389 


2,266,172 
3,072,691 


Duty  col- 
lected. 


$344,094 
265,573 

575,713 
532,247 

382,564 
344,585 

264,707 
236,812 


1,567,078 
1,379,217 


Equiva- 
lent or  av- 
erage ad 
valorem 

rate 
of  duty. 


Per  cent. 
71.67 
46.12 

70.13 
44.81 

66.33 
43.19 

68.16 
46.31 


69. 15 
44.89 


The  importations  continued  to  show  a  decline  during  the  quarter 
from  October  1  to  December  31,  1914.  The  importations  of  cotton 
hosiery  for  consumption  during  that  quarter  were:  Dozen  pairs 
196,046;  value,  $279,505;  duty  collected,  $128,986.  It  will  be  ob- 
served that  the  importations  steadily  decreased  by  quarters  during 
the  calendar  year  1914  and  that  during  the  last  quarter  of  that  year 
they  were  less  than  one-fourth  of  what  they  were  during  the  first 
quarter  of  that  year. 

These  statistics  of  imports  show  that  if  the  sales  of  American  ho- 
siery manufacturers  were  less  in  1914  than  in  previous  years,  it  was 
not  on  account  of  a  flood  of  foreign  importations,  the  importations 
being  an  extremely  small  per  cent  of  the  American  product.  More- 
over, the  statistics  of  imports  by  countries  show  that  nearly  all  the 
imports  of  hosiery  are  from  Germany.     The  imports  from  that  coun- 


230 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


try  have  practically  ceased  smce  tho  war  began.  An  article  in  the 
Dry  Goods  Economist  of  January  16,  1915,  discussing  the  decrease  of 
hosiery  importations  during  the  latter  part  of  1914,  says: 

r.Jl^^  ^OA  ^^^l  ^^^^^^  *^  increase  while  the  war  continues.  In  any  event ,  with  cotton 
costing  20  cents  a  pound  m  Germany  competition  with  domestic  liroduction  would  be 
out  ot  the  question.  Aside  from  this,  and  regardless  of  war,  importations  of  honierv 
normally,  equal  but  a  small  percentage  of  the  output  of  the  Unitcnl  States.  Further- 
more, the  remarkable  improvements  constantly  being  made  in  domestic  goods  r*mder 
the  menace  of  foreign  competition  a  steadily  decreasing  one. 

As  far  as  statistics  are  available,  the  data  regarding  the  importa- 
tion of  woolen  and  silk  hosiery  and  other  knitted  articles  of  wearin<^ 
apparel  imported  for  consumption  durmg  the  fiscal  years  1911  to 
1914,  inclusive,  are  shown  in  Table  85. 

Table  85.— Value  op  Woolen  and  Silk  Knit  Wearing  Apparel  Importeo  for 
Consumption  During  the  Fiscal  Years  Ended  June  30,  1911-1914. 


Knitted  articles. 

1911 

1912 

1913 

1914 

Woolen  (except  shawls) 

$367,708 
291,811 

$391,«»2;< 
201,741 

$487, 285 
250, 794 

o $4 15, 775 
b  IKl, 135 

Silk !!!!!.'!!!!! 

191-  m}  anJtTie  ist  ht'lf^n?  h«^f^/^-  ^'  ^%\\'}'il'^^  •^'^-  ^^^^'  ^^^^''^^^-  ^"""^  ^he  fincal  years  1911, 
were  the  value  of  fh^m^nitat  i  m  ^  Sfl^^tW  ^^}^i  the  importations  of  woolen  art  ides  shown  i£  this  table 
OT  to  part  of  wo^l  o^^  ^^^''l^^  of;year  nig  apparel,  except  shawls,  conij)osed  in  whole 

fng^helit  hluof  tZ  f,lS  there  was  a  duty  of  44  ce.i  is  a  pound  plus  60  per  cmi  ad  valorem.    D  ur- 

KrtSns  of  kn  nprfLrtl^?ff  if  ^^  theimports  of  woolen  articles  shown  in  this  table  weiethe  value  of  the 
KomnXnt  mai^^^^  apparel  except  hosiery,  gloves,  and  shawls,  of  which  wool  was 

ion  ^L  imV+r    '  1913,  $50,5as;  Oct.  4, 1913,  to  June  30, 1914,  $130,547.     During  the  fiscal  years  1911    1912 
kn?t'tP^«4?  it"'?  importations  of  silk  articles  shown  in  tl.is  table  were  the  vSue  (^the  iiStatK.ns  of 
dnJvn^tw^^\°^''^^7'^  ^P?-^'"^^'  °f  ^^*^'h  s^  ^^as  the  <  omponent  material  of   hief  vZ?     Th    new 

As  shown  by  the  precedmg  table,  the  importations  of  woolen  knit 
articles  ot  wearing  apparel,  except  shawls,  increased  from  the  fiscal 
year  1911  to  1913.  The  importations  of  such  articles  during  the 
hscal  year  1914  appear  to  be  less  than  in  the  fiscal  year  1913,  but  the 
amount  for  1914  does  not  include  imi)ortations  of  hosiery  or  doves 
lor  the  last  six  months  of  the  latter  fisctd  year. 

Table  86.— Value  op  Hosiery,  op  Which  Wool  Was  the  Component  Material 
ENDE^TuJ^Sof'lQlT'"''''^''  ^""^  Consumption  During  thk    Six   Quarters 


Quarter  ended — 


Mar.  31, 1914: 

Value  of  imports. 

Duty  collected . . . 
June  30, 1914: 

Value  of  imports. 
Duty  collected... 
Sept.  30, 1914: 

Value  of  imports. 

Duty  collected . . . 
Dec.  31, 1914: 

Value  of  imports . 

Duty  collected... 
Mar.  31, 1915: 

Value  of  imports . 

Duty  collected... 
June  30, 1915: 

Value  of  imports 

Duty  collected  . . 


Selvaged,  fashioned  or 
seamless,  valued,  per 
dozen  pairs,  at — 


$1.20  or 

less,  30 

per  cent. 


$2,542 

763 

2,153 
646 

2,191 
657 

2,272 

682 

426 
128 


More  than 
$1.20,  40 
per  cent. 


$28,543 
11,417 

29,581 
11,832 

81,272 
32,509 

51,577 
20,631 

14,018 
5,607 

16,571 
6,628 


Not  spe- 
cially pni- 
vlded  for 
(cut-out 
hose),  2(1 
per  cent 


$4,H1 

96 

10 

2 

381 
76 

15:{ 
31 

Hi 


Total. 


$;il,566 
12,276 

31,744 
12,480 

K<,844 
33,242 

54,002 
21,344 

U,460 

6,738 

16,571 
«i,628 


FOREIOX    TRADE. 


281 


Durhig  the  fiscal  years  1911  to  1913  and  during  llie  first  half  of  the 
fiscal  year  1914  the  tariff  rates  on  hosiery  composed  in  whole  or  in 
part  of  wool  was  44  cents  a  pound  plus  60  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

In  Table  86  are  shown  the  importations  of  hosiery  of  which  wool 
was  the  component  material  of  chief  value  during  the  first  five  quar- 
ters after  the  new  tariff  on  woolen  goods  went  into  effect,  beginning 
January  1,  1914,  the  duty  collected,  and  the  rates  of  duty  on  such 
hosiery. 

The  five  quarters  mcluded  in  the  above  table  do  not  cover  any 
complete  fiscal  year  but,  as  shown  by  the  table,  the  importations 
of  woolen  hosiery  during  the  last  six  months  of  the  fiscal  year  1914 
(the  six  months  ended  June  30,  1914),  amounted  to  $63,310.  This 
period  was  after  the  reduction  m  duty  on  woolen  goods  went  into 
effect,  but  before  the  beginning  of  the  war  in  Europe.  Adding  the 
importations  for  these  two  quarters,  and  multiplying  the  total  by 
2,  to  roughly  approxunate  the  importations  for  a  year,  the  result 
would  be  $126,620. 

This  amount  ($126,620)  is  only  a  very  small  percentage  of  the 
total  amount  of  the  production  in  the  United  States  of  hosiery 
made  m  whole  or  m  part  of  wool.  As  shown  by  the  Census  of  Man- 
ufactures, the  value  of  the  production  in  the  United  States  in  1909 
of  hosiery  made  of  merino  or  mixed  materials  amounted  to  $4,766,195; 
and  of  hosiery  made  of  woolen  or  worsted  amounted  to  $4,445,227, 
a  total  of  $9,211,422.  Of  this  total,  $126,620  (the  approximate 
amount  of  importations  of  knit  wearing  apparel,  other  than  hosiery, 
gloves,  and  shawls,  made  ui  whole  or  m  part  of  wool,  on  the  basis 
of  a  full  year  under  the  new  tariff,  but  imder  conditions  as  they 
were  before  the  European  war  began)  is  1.38  per  cent. 

As  shown  by  Table  85,  the  importations  of  knitted  silk  articles 
of  wearing  apparel  during  the  fiscal  year  1914  amounted  to  $181,135. 
This  included  all  classes  of  knit  goods  of  which  silk  was  the  com- 

Eonent  material  of  chief  value,  and  not  hosiery  only.     As  shown 
y  the  Census  of  Manufactures,  the  value  of  the  products  in  the 
United  States  m  1909  of  silk  hosiery  was  $3,600,416. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  during  nearly  nine  months  of  the 
fiscal  year  1914  (from  Oct.  4,  1913,  to  June  30,  1914)  the  rate  of 
duty  on  knit  articles  of  wearing  apparel  of  which  silk  was  the  com- 
ponent niaterial  of  chief  value  the  tariff  rate  was  50  per  cent  ad 
valorem,  instead  of  60  per  cent,  as  it  was  before  the  importations  of 
such  goods,  as  shown  by  Table  85,  were  considerably  less  in  the 
fiscal  year  1914  than  they  were  m  any  of  the  three  previous  fiscal 
years. 

Hosiery  that  retails  at  over  50  cents  a  pair  is  largely  knit  of  silk, 
or  is  what  is  called  ''boot  silk";  that  is,  the  upper  part  of  the  foot, 
the  ankle,  and  lower  part  of  the  leg  are  knit  of  silk  and  the  balance 
of  cotton.  In  the  last  few  years  there  has  been  a  remarkable  increase 
in  the  use  of  silk  or  boot-silk  hosiery  in  the  United  States,  and  this 
tendency  of  fashion  has  been  fortunate  for  domestic  manufacturers 
of  full-fashioned  hosiery. 

Under  the  Dingley  Act  and  the  Payne- Aldrich  Act  the  tariff  rate 
on  knit  goods  of  which  silk  was  the  component  material  of  chief 
value  was  60  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

Under  the  Underwood-vSimmons  Act  the  rate  is  50  per  cent,  but 
it  is  still  high  enough  effectually  to  exclude  nearly  all  silk  or  boot- 


I 


232 


f 


Xnnr 


THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 


bilk  hosierv,  for  the  reason  that  the  50  per  cent  rate  applies  to  the 
value  of  the  silk,  which  is  the  greater  part  of  the  whole  cost,  as  wc^ll 
as  to  the  labor  aiid  overhead  exptnise.  Moreover,  practically  all 
sUk  hosiery  manufactured  abroad  is  made  full  fashioned,  and  the 
labor  cost  on  full-fashioned  hosiery  is  higher  than  on  seamless  hosiery 
whether  m  America  or  Europe. 

in^^^-^^IJf''^  "^^^^  ""^  artificial  silk  the  duty  under  the  tariff  act  of 
1913  IS  60  per  cent,  and  there  is  Httle  foreign  competition  on  such 
goods,  though  the  amount  of  importations  is  not  separately  stated 
A  large  hosiery  buyer  who  recently  made  an  investigation  of  the 

^r^ni'"'''^'^'^':?.'^  '^  ^^'.^  *^^^^  ^^^  ^^^  foUo^ving  to  say  on  January 
29,  1915,  regarding  hosiery:  ^  j  j 

I  am  of  the  opinion  that  men's  cottcm  hosiery  (for  which  there  is  but  little  demand 
and  which  sells  for  25  cents  and  35  centsa  pair)  could  have  been  bought  in  Eur  me  a^ 
a  lower  price  than  thoae  which  prevailed  at  home  before  the  war.    Outside  of  this 
Item,  the  home  manufacturers  have  full  control  of  the  American  market  on  both  men's 
and  women's  hosiery. 

The  reason  for  this  is  that  within  the  past  few  years  a  great  dc^mand  has  sprung  up 
K  it  TVif-  ^^V'^'^y  hosiery  and  American  manufacturers  have  full  («ontm  of  the 
bulk  of  this  class  of  merchandise,  which  consists  of  fiber  silk  hosierv,  me?  erized 
hosiery,  silk  ankle  hosiery,  and  all-silk  hosiery.     In  this  group,  with  one  exception 

^n^.^tT'^-if  l^^T^"^^  ^^^  that  only  to  a  small  degree,  can  foreign  manufaetS 
compete  with  the  American  manufacturers.  tui^ra 

American  manufacturers  who  have  not  been  progressive  enough  to  chan.^e  the 
character  of  their  product  to  meet  the  large  demand  which  exists  fSr  merchandise  in 
the  above-mentioned  group  are  the  ones  who  are  running  behind.  The  progressive 
manufacturers  who  are  making  merchandise  of  the  character  mentioned  afcovlquote 
business  as  normal  and  in  some  cases  ahead.  a"wv«  quoie 

I  might  add  for  y9ur  information  that  the  d.^mand  for  fiber  silk  hosiery  which  is 
an  imitation  of  silk,  is  sweeping  the  country  fc.r  men's  at  25  cents,  and  a  lame  demand 
IS  developing  for  women 's  and  children's  at  25  ,>ents,  35  cents,  and  50  cente  perm^r 
On  this  class  of  merchandise  the  American  manufacturers  have  absolute  controP  I 
earned  frona  good  authority  that  one  manufacturer,  who  is  the  largest  hosiery  manu- 
facturer  m  the  world  producing  $7,000,000  worth  of  merchandise  a  year,  is  wS. 
on  full  time  and  that  he  exported  $500,000  worth  of  hosiery  to  England  and  Glrmanv 

fiberTilk  ho^rrj""'-     ^"  '"  '^'"  '^'  ^'^^'''  P'^*^^^"^  ^^  '^'  ^^"^^^  oUhe^  <Xd 

r.r}'^  f  ?if ''  ^"^  ^f -^  '^''''?  <'Omprehensive  view  of  the  situation,  I  called  up  on  the  ]»hone 
one  of  the  most  important  box  manufacturers,  whose  business,  of  course,  wouirn^t^ 
urally  depend  upon  the  production  of  hosiery,  as  he  caters  to  this  class  o  trade  He 
informed  me  that  his  business  was  better  than  last  year.  Referring  to  th^  hosierv 
situation,  he  summed  it  up  by  saying  that  the  progressive  maiiufactuFera  were  hS 
a  good  business  while  the  unprogressive  ones  were  not.  "aving 

The  Census  of  Manufactures  for  1909  shows  that  the  production 
ot  silk  hosiery  mcreased  from  12,572  dozen  pairs  in  1899  to  434  414 
dozen  pairs  in  1909  or  3,355.4  per  cent ;  while  the  value  of  the  hosiery 
product  increased  from  $186,413  in  1899  to  $3,600,416  in  1909,  or 
1,831.4  per  cent.«  These  figures  show  the  enormous  incn^ase  in  the 
demand  for  silk  hosiery  No  later  statistics  are  available,  but  it  is 
Imown  that  since  1909  there  has  been  a  large  continued  increase  in 
the  production  of  silk  hosiery  in  the  United  States 

The  census  reports  do  not  show  the  production  of  artificial  silk 
hosiery.  In  the  last  few  years  this  ])ranch  of  the  hosiery  industry 
has  assumed  large  proportions.  ^ 

Since  the  demand  for  lighter  and  '^shiny"  hosiery  has  so  tremen- 
dously increased  m  the  last  few  years,  manufacturers  of  cotton 
hosiery  have  found  it  more  difficult  to  ])ut  their  product  on  the  market 

a  Thirteenth  Census,  Manufactiires,  Vol.  X,  p.  79. 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


233 


with  the  same  margin  of  profit.  Manufacturers  who  have  been  pro- 
OTessive  enough  to  change  their  product  to  silk  or  artificial  silk 
hosiery  have  done  a  profitable  business. 

EXPOETS  OF  HOSIEBY  AND  KNIT  GOODS. 

American  manufacturers  of  hosiery  and  other  knit  goods,  relying 
on  the  home  market  for  trade,  have  made  but  little  effort  to  estab- 
lish a  market  for  their  product  in  foreign  countries.  The  exports  of 
such  goods  are  still  very  small  as  compared  with  the  production  in 
the  United  States,  but  nevertheless  they  have  shown  a  substantial 
growth  in  recent  years. 

The  statistics  of  domestic  exports  do  not  classify  the  exports  of 
hosiery  separately  from  those  of  other  knit,  goods,  and  there  are  no 
statistics  showing  the  exports  of  woolen  and  silk  hosiery,  but  the 
trend  of  foreign  trade  in  hosiery  and  knit  goods  made  of  cotton  is 
shown  in  Table  87. 

Table  87. — Domestic  Exports  op  Cotton  Hosiery  and  Other  Knit  Goods  from 
THE  United  States  During  the  Fiscal  Years  ICnded  June  30,1908-1915. 


Countries  to  which 
exported. 


Argentina 

Austraha 

Bermuda 

Brazil 

Canada 

Chile 

China 

Cuba 

France 

Germany 

Italy 

Mexico 

Newfo'jndland    and 

Labrador 

Netherlands 

Panama 

Philippine  Islands. . . 

Santo  Domingo 

British  South  Africa. 
United  Kingdom 

England. 

Scotland 

Ireland 

Uruguay 

Other  countries 

Total 


1908 


$689 

38,943 

4,066 

5,131 

111,648 

2,624 

275,568 

74,424 

468 

3,280 

225 

32,689 

30,892 
12,960 
72,133 
41,324 

5,165 

39,490 

638,504 

(°) 

(°) 

(«) 

508 
92,020 


1,482,751 


1909 


$1,257 

35,451 

4,445 

4,268 

98, 108 

2,435 

47,298 

95,775 

274 

8,026 

1,635 

13,609 

43,521 
24,049 
26, 742 
33,477 
3,518 
25,578 


430, 773 
4,545 
1,694 
6,473 

103,374 


1,016,325 


1910 


$250 

67,691 

6,916 

2,114 

130,057 

3,635 

26,927 

105,378 

3,483 

9,301 

4,597 

11, 139 

32,231 
5,985 
101,940 
32, 457 
13,362 
20,970 


524,586 
760 


9,079 
62,289 


1,175,147 


1911 


$73,504 
7,975 


186,462 

4,440 

161,767 

154, 722 

335 

3,673 

3,058 

32,508 

41,285 
4,977 
98,410 
48, 434 
20,174 
22,949 


682,907 
935 


6,668 
91,036 


1,646,219 


1912 


$2,215 
86,651 

4,983 

1,112 
247,696 

7,718 

88.320 

193,028 

8,399 
10,916 
13,372 
25,330 

60,966 
9,048 
68,458 
49, 439 
13,876 
76,100 


731,453 

13,788 

533 

30,466 

114,969 


1,858,836 


1913 


$30,907 

121,777 

18,343 

10, 925 

396, 879 

17,583 

192,396 

185,444 

17, 795 

30,834 

16,350 

41,294 

37,672 
33,644 
98.506 
97,983 
18,143 
39,336 


1,005,772 

22,562 

13, 164 

25,825 

140,672 


2,613,806 


1914 


$67,472 

142,627 

14,108 

5,734 

440,558 
22,576 
47,014 

200,476 
30,892 
20,214 
16,200 
59,539 

35,048 
49,268 
95,330 
92,847 
42,283 
26,882 


911,886 
17, 181 

2,027 

26,836 

179,824 


2,546,822 


191; 


109, 572 

C:J5,494 

10,640 

15,103 

588,907 

6,63S 

11,364 

403,420 

1,179,364 

1,109 

3,886 

47,940 

39,559 

104,980 

115,226 

111,483 

45,943 

70,906 


9,030,468 

99,579 

9,310 

25,609 

347,945 


13,080,445 


o  Not  stated  separately  prior  to  1909. 

It  will  be  noted  that  during  the  five  years  from  1909  to  1914  the 
exports  have  increased  from  $1,016,325  to  $2,546,822,  or  more  than 
150  per  cent.  Over  35  per  cent  of  the  total  exports  in  1914  went 
to  England.  Canada's  purchases  are  also  large,  and  they  have 
more  than  quadrupled  in  the  past  five  years.  Tney  might  be  larger 
if  it  were  not  for  the  preferential  tariff  given  to  Great  Britain.  Ar- 
gentina, China,  Cuba,  Australia,  Netherlands,  Panama,  Philippine 
Islands,  Mexico,  Santo  Domingo,  and  South  Africa  are  other  markets 
in  which  American  cotton  hosierv  and  other  knit  goods  were  being 
sold  in  appreciable  quantities.  Tne  total  exports  in  the  fiscal  year 
1915  were  over  five  times  as  great  as  in  the  fiscal  year  1914,  but  this 


234 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


f-eat  increase  was  due  to  the  abnormal  conditions  produced  by  the 
uropean  war.  The  trade  in  these  hues  with  Central  and  South 
America  is  ahnost  insignificant,  but  it  has  shown  a  rapid  expansion 
in  recent  years  and  appears  to  offer  splendid  prospects  tor  the  future. 

Considerable  success  has  been  attained  in  the  foieign  field  l>y 
American  manufacturers  of  seamless  cotton  and  low-priced  silk 
hosiery.  Even  in  Germany,  wliich  country  is  preeminent  in  the 
production  of  hosiery,  American  consuls  reported  before  the  war 
began  that  the  trade  in  seamless  silk  hosiery  from  the  United  States 
was  assuming  such  proportions  as  to  cause  consider abhi  alarm  among 
manufacturers  in  that  country. 

On  account  of  the  greater  proportion  of  labor  cost  in  the  manu- 
facture of  full-fashioned  hosiery  little  business  is  donc^  in  exporting 
goods  of  that  kind. 

In  Australia  and  South  Africa  there  is  a  demand  for  fleece-lintd 
underwear  from  America. 

Most  of  the  exportations  of  hosiery  and  knit  underwear  are  made 
tlirough  foreign  selling  agents  or  exporting  houses. 

In  Table  88  imports  and  exports  of  cotton  hosiery  and  other  knit 
goods  for  the  fiscal  years  1909  to  1914,  inclusive,  are  shown  in  parallel 
colunms,  together  with  a  column  showing  the  per  cent  the  exports 
were  of  the  imports  in  each  year. 

Table  88. — Value  op  Cotton  Hosiery  and  Other  Knit  Goods  Imported  for 
Consumption,  and  Domestic  Exports,  Durinc^  the  Fiscal  Years  Eni>ed  Jume 
30,  1909-1915. 


Fiscal  year  ended  June  30— 


1909 
1910 
1911 
1912 
1913 
1914 
1915 


Imports. 


Hosiery. 


$6,390,923 
5, 825, 099 
3,824,970 
2, 912, 400 
2, 553, 914 
2, 949. 678 
1,705,346 


Knit  goods 
other  than 

hosiery 
anil  gloves. 


$459,610 
.'>60,222 
433,942 
361, 8.57 
304,  703 
;}41, 973 
278,182 


Total 
(except 
gloves). 


$6,850,533 
6,385,321 
4,258,912 
3,274,259 
2,858,617 
3,291,651 
1,983,528 


Pomestio 

eN  ports — 

Hosiery 

and  other 

knit  goods. 


•1.016,325 
1.175,147 
1,646,219 
1,858,836 
l.>,613,806 
2  546,822 

13.080,445 


Per  cent 

exports 

were  of 

imports. 


14.84 
18.40 
38.65 
56.77 
91.44 
77.  37 
659,45 


The  above  table  shows  that  during  the  five  fiscal  years  from  1909  to 
1914  the  imports  of  cotton  hosiery  and  other  knit  goods  decn^ased  by 
more  than  half,  while  during  the  same  fx^riod  the  exports  more  than 
doubled.  In  the  fiscal  year  1909  the  amount  of  exports  was  14.S4 
percentof  the  amountof  imports;  in  1914  it  was  77.37  ])er  cent.  The 
domestic  exports  in  1915,  largely  no  doubt  as  a  result  of  the  war, 
amounted  to  six  and  one-half  times  the  value  of  the  imports. 

* 

IMPOETS  AND  EXPOETS  OF  HOSIEEY  MACHINEEY. 

Machinery  for  knitting  seamless  hosiery,  being  peculiarly  of  Amer- 
ican invention,  received  its  complete  development  in  this  country, 
and  all  such  machinery  in  use  in  this  country  is  of  domestic 
manufacture. 

Though  there  are  two  very  good  American  loopers,  the  great 
predominance  of  the  looping  machinery  for  seamless  as  well  as  full- 


FOREIGN  TRADE. 


235 


fashioned  hosiery  is  of  foreign  make,  usually  German.  The  Ger- 
man two-tliread  looper  was  in  the  field  five  years  before  the  first 
American  machine  of  the  same  kind.  The  American  manufacturer 
originally  purchased  the  German  looper,  and  to-day  has  enough  loop- 
ers, or,  if  he  needs  a  new  one,  does  not  care  to  install  a  few  American 
machines  alongside  the  numerous  foreign  ones.  The  makers  of  the 
foreign  looper  claim  better  material  and  workmanship,  a  better  seam 
m  strength  and  appearance,  and  a  more  reliable  trimming  attach- 
ment, with  easier  repairing.  Though  most  American  manufacturers 
prefer  the  foreign  looper,  the  preference  arises  from  not  having  prop- 
erly tried  out  the  American  machine.  American  manufacturers  who 
have  used  the  domestic  machine  are  well  satisfied  with  it,  though  they 
do  admit  that  there  is  some  sUght  machine  trouble  occasionally.  To 
emphasize  this  satisfaction  with  the  American  looper  one  American 
full-fashioned  hosiery  manufacturer  uses  nothing  but  domestic 
loopers. 

SUPERIORITY   OF   AMERICAN   MACHINERY. 

Full-fashioned  hosiery,  while  manufactured  to  but  a  small  extent 
m  this  country  as  compared  with  seamless  hosiery,  is  growing  very 
rapidly,  especially  in  silk.  FuU-fashioned  hosiery  is  knit  usually  on 
the  German  Cotton  type  machine.  The  Ami^rican  manufacturer  pre- 
fers the  German  machine  for  the  same  reason  that  he  prefers  the 
German  looper;  that  is,  because  it  was  long  in  the  field  before  the 
American  machme  appeared.  The  American  machme  is  not  used  for 
lack  of  a  proper  trial. 

Originally  the  manufacturer  purchased  the  foreign  machine,  as  it 
was  the  only  one.  His  help,  which  had  to  be  skiUed,  was  foreicrn. 
Foreign  workers  naturally  preferred  the  machme  they  had  been  taught 
on,  and  could  see  no  merit  to  the  domestic  machine.  The  labor 
required  being  skilled  and  it  being  difficult  to  learn  the  trade,  the  help 
remains  largely  foreign,  with  its  prejudice  in  favor  of  the  foreign  ma- 
chine. Ajnerican  manufacturers  who  have  given  the  domestic  ma- 
chine a  trial  and  have  found  it  satisfactory  do  not  care  to  install  a  few 
American  machines  alongside  their  numerous  foreign  machines,  thus 
breaking  up  the  smooth  working  system  of  the  factory.  Another 
reason  for  the  preference  of  American  manufacturers  for  the  foreign 
machine  is  that  the  foreign  machine  is  generally  purchased  of  a  jobber 
who  allows  long  selling  terms,  in  one  case  the  tune  for  payment  being 
five  years.  The  domestic  machines  must  generally  be  paid  for  in 
about  ono  year.  The  American  machines,  however,  are  sold  at  a  less 
price  than  the  foreign  machines,  as  is  shown  by  Table  64,  page  182. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  when  tried  out  the  American  machine  is  found 
to  be  far  superior,  though  one  is  unable  as  yet  to  say  how  it  will  stand 
up  under  wear.  This  is  the  opinion  of  a  well-versed  manufacturer 
who  has  used  the  foreign  machine  for  18  years  and  who  recently  has 
installed  a  few  American  machines.  He  has  run  the  domestic 
machine  alongside  the  foreign  one,  enabling  hun  to  watch  closely  the 
comparative  merits  of  both  machines.  The  foreign-machine  manu- 
facturer claims  25  per  cent  greater  production,  finer  points,  such  as  an 
addition  to  insure  perfect  loops,  producing  a  better  fabric;  a  check 
bar  provided  with  springs  to  steady  the  motion  of  certain  parts  of  the 
machine:  and  also  better  devices  Jor  narrowing  and  for  producing  a 
better  selvage. 


t 


236 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


The  Aiiicricaii  manufacturer  who  lias  tried  out  both  machines 
claims  that  the  great  superiority  of  the  domestic  over  the  fonugn 
machine  is  in  that  it  is  simpler  to  handle?.  It  is  easier  to  teach  onci  to 
knit  on  It,  which  is  a  great  advantage,  since  the  suppl\r  of  skilled  help 
for  the  foreign  machines  is  very  limited.  To  illustrate  how  easy  it  is 
to  teach  one  to  knit  on  the  American  machine,  the  b(^fore-mentioned 
manufacturer  brouglit  in  a  boy  who  had  two  weeks  previously  been 
working  as  an  office  boy  and  who  in  that  short  period  liad  been  taucrht 
to  knit  on  a  domestic  machine.  This  boy  after  two  weeks  w  as  gettmg 
out  the  full  production  of  first-quality  hosiery. 

Another  great  advantage  claimed  for  the  American  full-fashioning 
machine  is  that  it  produces  hosiery  cheaper,  because  as  the  cost 
of  knitting  is  the  principal  part  of  the  labor  cost  in  full-fashioned 
hosiery,  this  machine,  requiring,  as  it  does,  comparatively  little  skill 
the  pay  for  knitting  is  much  less.  ' 

Another  very  important  advantage  claimed  by  this  manufacturer 
for  the  domestic  machine  is  greater  production,  though  the  foreign 
maker  claims  the  same  thmg.  In  actual  work  this  manufacturer 
found  that  the  most  efficient  knitter  on  the  best  foreign-manufactured 
machine  could  produce  from  28  to  30  dozen  a  day,  and  in  the  same 
time  the  former  errand  boy  was  tumin|r  out  from  33  to  34  dozen  of 
the  same  grade  of  goods  on  the  domestic  machine. 

Other  advantages  claimed  for  the  American  machine  are  that  it 
will  get  out  its  full  production  after  being  in  use  a  few  weeks,  whereas 
the  foreign  machine  often  requires  about  six  months  to  accompUsh 
the  same  result,  and  that  a  domestic  42-gauge  machuu^  will  turn  out 
a  stocking  equal  to  any  45-gauge  stocking  made  on  a  foreign  machine. 

EXPORTATION   OF   AMERICAN   MACHINES. 

The  onlv  hosiery  machinery  that  is  exported  from  the  United 
States  is  that  used  in  making  a  seamless  product,  and  a  very  few 
loopers.  Most  of  these  knitting  machines  go  to  England,  Germany 
and  Russia,  and  a  few  to  Spain,  Chma,  and  Japan.  Tlie  few  loopers 
that  are  exported  go  principally  to  China  and  Japan,  and  a  very  few 
to  Argentina  and  Australia. 

Until  very  recently  American  knittmg-machine  manufacturers  have 
made  but  little  effort  to  develop  foreign  trade.  What  they  export  is 
sold  not  to  manufacturers  of  hosiery  direct  but  to  jol)bera.  There 
are  several  reasons  for  this  httle  interest  taken  in  exporting  American 
hosiery  machines : 

First,  our  foreign  banking  connections  outside  of  a  few  countries  in 
Europe  are  poor,  and  the  American  machine  manufacturer  is  unwill- 
ing to  extend  very  liberal  credit  abroad.  He  wishes  to  liold  the  banker 
or  agent  responsible  for  a  bill,  not  caring  to  extend  credit  to  the  manu- 
facturer who  has  purchased  the  machines. 

Second,  European  machinery  manufacturers  or  jobbers  have  stud- 
ied foreign  conditions  and  languages,  with  the  result  that  the  foreign 
hosiery  manufacturers  have  confidence  in  them. 

Third,  the  American  manufacturer  can  sell  the  machinery  neces- 
sary for  only  a  part  of  hosiery  making.  The  Englisli  jobber  has  a 
complete  line  necessary  to  manufactun^  an  entire  stocking.  If,  for 
example,  a  South  American  would  hke  to  purchase  machinery  neces- 
sary to  produce  a  certain  kind  of  hosiery,  the  English  jobber  can 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


237 


supply  him  with  the  entire  equipment.  The  American  manufacturer 
has  specialized.  He  makes  one  or  two  different  macliines.  He  has 
considered  this  foreign  plan  of  carrying  a  complete  line  of  machinery, 
but  has  thought  unfavorably  of  it,  because  m  selecting  some  other 
manufacturer's  machine  to  go  along  with  his  the  manufacturers  of 
machines  not  selected  would  in  their  tuni  act  unfavorably  toward  his 
machine.  Also,  the  EngUsh  salesman  has  for  years  made  a  scientific 
study  of  the  industry  and  can  sell  any  kind  of  machine  needed, 
whereas  the  American  salesman,  working  generally  for  a  manufac- 
turer who  makes  but  one  or  two  different  kuids  of  machines,  can  only 
sell  his  own  specialized  product. 

In  recent  years  exports  of  hosiery-knitting  machinery  from  the 
United  States  have  increased  to  a  great  extent,  due  to  the  bitter  rivalry 
between  the  two  leading  foreign  machine-manufacturing  countries. 
Hosiery  manufacturers  m  neither  of  these  countries  w3l  purchase 
machines  made  in  the  other  country  if  it  can  get  an  article  nearly  as 
good  from  sonieone  else.  This  has  greatly  stimulated  the  American 
export  trade  in  hosiery  machinery. 

Table  89  shows  the  number  of  seamless  knitting  machines  sold 
annually  in  the  United  States  and  abroad  by  the  three  largest  manu- 
facturers of  seamless  knitting  machinery  in  this  country. 

Table  89. — Seamless  Knitting  Machines  Sold  by  the  Three  Largest  Manu- 
facturers OP  Seamless  Knitting  Machinery  in  the  LFnited  States,  1911-1913. 


Years. 


1911 
1912 
1913 


Machines 
sold  in 
United 
States. 


4,515 
5,369 
5,979 


Machines 
exported  to 
foreign  coun- 
tries. 


849 
1,235 
1,618 


SUGGESTIONS  FOB  INCREASING  FOREIGN  TRADE. 

American  manufacturers  of  hosiery  have  made  comparatively 
little  effort  to  place  their  products  in  foreign  markets,  and  with  few 
exceptions  such  business  as  they  have  obtained  has  largely  come 
through  export  houses.  It  is  claimed  by  some  of  the  manufacturers 
that  export  houses  frequently  do  not  give  active  attention  to  the 
selling  of  American  clothuig  abroad,  because  other  Imes,  such  as 
automobiles,  hardware,  and  machinery,  offer  better  returns  and  do 
not  require  the  same  amount  of  effort  or  technical  knowledge  which 
is  necessary  in  attempting  to  mtroduce  Amtirican  clothing. 

There  is  a  rather  widespread  ignorance  among  the  manufacturers 
as  regards  the  requirements  of  the  foreign  markets  and  the  proper 
methods  to  be  adopted  in  building  up  an  export  trade.  An  active 
campaign  of  mquiry  and  study  must  be  inaugurated  before  definite 
results  can  be  expected.  The  most  effective  plan  would  be  for  the 
manufacturers,  individually  or  collectively,  to  send  their  own  rep- 
resentatives into  the  foreign  fields  to  study  the  conditions  and  the 
tastes  of  the  people  in  the  matter  of  hosiery,  show  their  samples,  and 
establish  their  own  agents  in  the  prmcipal  countries  who  could  look 
after  the  business  when  their  representatives  had  returned  from 
the  field. 


si 


238 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


Manufacturers  who  are  miable  or  uiiwilUng  to  adopt  this  policy 
should  avail  themselves  of  the  facHitics  which  the  Bureau  of  Foreign 
and  Domestic  Commerce  at  Washington  and  the  Amr^rican  Consular 
b^vice  provide  for  assistmg  them  in  securmg  export  trade.     In  the 

Irade  opportunities^'  nublished  m  the  Commerce  Reports,  issued 
daily  by  the  Bureau,  there  are  freqiK^ntly  printed  inquiries  from 
abroad  for  the  names  of  American  manufacturers  and  export<Ts 
and  It  these  opportunities  are  actively  foUowed  up  ccnmections  may 
be  made  with  unporters  abroad  whicli  may  result  in  good  sales 
American  consuls  can  furnish  specific  information  m  regard  to  the 
possibilities  for  trade  m  certam  markets.  They  can  also  procure 
saniples  showmg  the  particular  kinds  of  hosiery  in  demand 

Manufacturers  who  seriously  undertake  the  work  of  selling  their 
products  abroad  should  bear  m  mmd  the  suggestions  which  always 
apply  m  the  development  of  export  trade,  namely,  to  wiite  their 
letters  and  prepare  catalogues  m  a  language  which  the  foreigner 
understands,  to  quote  prices  m  a  currency  with  which  he  is  familiar 
to  lurnish  c.  i.  f.  (cost,  insurance,  and  freight)  quotations  as  far  a^ 
possible,  to  pack  goods  properly,  to  till  orders  promptly  and  care- 
lully,  to  extend  a  reasonable  amount  of  credit  where  the  standing  of 
the  miporter  justifies  it,  and  to  keep  in  constant  touch  with  the 
market  through  representatives  or  by  corresponden(?e.  An  active 
campaign  which  incorporates  these  suggestions,  backed  by  a  thorough 
study  of  the  foreign  markets  and  their  requirements,  will  undoubt- 
edly result  m  a  substantial  mcrease  in  exports  of  hosiery. 

At  the  annual  convention  of  the  National  Association  of  Hosiery 
?ni  r^  T^^^^  Manufacturers  held  in  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  May  4  to  6 
1915,  the  board  of  du-ectors  made  a  report  m  part  as  foUows:  ' 

Paul  F.  Vogel  president  and  manager  of  the  Belleville  Hosiery  Mills   Belleville 
111    represented  the  association  at  the  national  foreign  trade  convention  n  St  L  uis 
in  Jaiuuuy.     So  impressed  wa^  Mr.  Vogel  with  the  possibilities  of  developiL  a  gre  ter 
export  trade  as  shown  at  the  convention,  that  he  suggests  that  your  directors  pro vicle 
for  an  export  department  of  the  association.  i«t.u.rs  provide 

At  the  1915  convention  of  the  National  Association  of  Hosi(^ry 
and  Underwear  Manufacturers  an  addn^ss  on  ^'Export  possibiUties'' 
was  delivered  by  Phdip  Hough,  of  John  McGiven  (Inc.),  of  New  York 
City.     In  this  address  Mr.  Hough  said: 

^o^flT®  the  war  American  hosiery  and  unden^ear  sold  in  a  wide  range  of  foreign 
markets.     I  have  seen  American  underweiu-  all  around  the  Caribbean  Sea     I  have 
seen  it  m  England,  Scotland,  and  France.    I  know  certain  cla^sses  of  unch  rwe^r  seU 
m  Australia  in  large  quantit  les,  and  I  myself  have  sold  certain  styles  1  •>  South  Amer  ca 
American  seamless  hosiery  sells  everywhere.  ^luencd. 

American  seamless  silk  hosiery  especially  has  been  described  asa  -'worid  beater  " 
and  now  when  Chemnitz  the  German  hosiery  mauufacturing  center,  is  paralyzed  he 
English  mills  and  those  of  Italy  and  Spain  can  noi  begin  to  supply  t)  e  demands  made 
on  theni,  and  so  the  United  States  is  taking  orders  for  hosiery  of  a^  k  ids  tW  shipm^^^^^ 
A^^ffr^r-  \^r^  ^^T  r^«'«>r  American  h.3siery  for  the  Gold  Coa^t  of^ wJst 
Africa,  where  white  people  do  not  form  more  than  one-tenth  of  1  per  ccmt  of  the  poi»u- 
lation;  and  It  It  sells  there,  where  will  it  not  sell?    *    *    *         ^  tu«  popu 

The  most  satisfactory  way  for  a  manufacturer  of  hosiery  or  underwear  to  get  export 
trade  effectively,  it  seems  to  me,  is  for  him  to  work  through  a  large  commLTon  ho^.se 
handling  knit  goods  in  New  York  or  through  a  manufacturer's  ^eat  in  New  Yo  k 
A  hosiery  or  underwear  mil  is  oftentimes  located  m  a  small  town,  ai.d  it  is  impossible 
Zlll  '^^^"^^^Vr^;  t^.get  in  touch  with  the  New  York  export  housc^s,  the  forwafding 
houses  who  handle  foreign  shipments,  the  banks  doing  foreign  exchange  etc 

foreign  buyers  coming  into  this  country  transact  their  business  in  New  York  and 
rilnF.?;  "^^'^  employ  a  man  especially  for  this  export  business  are  better  fitted  to 
handle  these  buyers  and  all  other  export  matters,  not  only  on  account  of  their  being 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


239 


bi^^^^}'^  *^®  ^''P?''*  ^^'^^^''  ?^  ^^®  country,  but  because  they  generally  have  a  man 
schooled  m  export  business  who  is  widely  traveled,  knows  several  languLes  and  who 

faTt^ r  ^b^^^  ^''^  P'f  1  smoothnes^  the  business  that  would  s^STthe  manu' 
lacturer  to  be  very  complicated. 

A  monograph  on  ''South  America  as  an  export  field/' «  is  intended 
to  give  manufacturers  mformation  as  to  the  character,  extent 
resources  -and  trade  of  South  American  countries  which  will  enable 
them  to  determme  m  part  the  most  favorable  markets  for  their 
goods.  This  monograph,  which  was  published  in  1914,  contains 
216  pages  and  may  be  procured  from  the  superintendent  of  docu- 
ments. Government  Prmting  Office,  Washington,  D.  C,  at  25  cents 
per  copy.  o       7  ,  t« 

The  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce  expects  to  issue 
shortly  a  series  of  reports  setting  forth  the  customs  duties  on  tex- 
tile^ m  the  various  South  American  countries.  The  pubhcations 
will  cover  everythmg  comprehended  m  the  textUe  industries  from 
the  raw  fiber,  thread,  vam,  and  fabric,  through  all  the  ramifica- 
tions of  made-up  articles--readv-made  clothing  for  men,  women, 
and  children;  knit  goods  of  all  kinds;  em])roidlry,  trimmmgs,  and 
other  fancy  articles;  carpets  and  rugs;  and  other  manuftctured 
^Irts  ^         materials  constitute  the  whole  or  important 

The  prigmal  customs  tariffs  of  all  foreign  countries  are  on  file  in 
the  division  of  foreign  tariffs  of  the  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic 
Commerce,  which,  m  response  to  specific  inqukies,  will  furnish  mfor- 
mation concerning  the  duties  on  any  particular  product  in  any 
country  in  which  the  inquu-er  may  be  mmiediately  mterested. 

Ihe  daily  Commerce  Reports  of  the  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic 
Commerce,  which  were  formerly  known  a^  the  Daify  Consular  and 
Irade  Reports  contam  from  tune  to  time  reports  of  trade  oppor- 
tunities and  other  information  of  value  concerning  this  mdustrv  m 
foreign  countries.     FoUowmg  are  extracts  from  these  reports  relat- 

ihlseVaily  re^^^^^^^^  ^^'^  ^^'^'  ^^^'""'^  ^  ^^^^^<^  ^^^  ^ 

ARGENTINA. 

DOMESTIC  PRODUCTION  AND  IMPORTS   OF  HOSIERY. 
[Consul  William  Dawson,  jr.,  Rosario,  Commerce  Reports,  Jan.  11, 1915.] 

^  u^T^f  by  the  high  tariff  Argentina  had,  ax^cording  t«  the  industrial  census  Crenorf 
published  in  1910),  47  fax^^tories  making  knitted  goods.  RetunirZ  not  sW  h^^ 
separately.  Of  these  factories,  43  were^n  the  city  of  Buenos  Akes  which  Lthe^nK 
important  textile  center.    The  total  capital  of  the  47  factories  was  $1  3^000   ani 

$154^^TwlhtfiV;Sn"  ^"ir^  ^'  ^\000,m.  Raw  material  wis  ^'aTed  at 
*i,&4U  (XX)  of  Which  $630,000  worth  was  produced  in  the  country  and  $910  000  wortli 
impoited  from  abroad.  The  factories  haS  2,390  employees  aiid^eveloped '?9^ hoi^ 
power,  of  which  542  was  steam  and  166  electric  viev«iopea  /y»  norse- 

f^tlier  idea  of  the  importance  of  the  home  industry  may  be  obtained  from  a  nai^ 
recently  addressed  to  the  Government  by  the  ''Union  IndLtrialSS^^  at  t^^f 
request  of  Argentine  manufacturers  of  kmW  ^oods.  The  note  pointe  out^he  de^l 
bihty  of  inviting  manufax^turers  of  cotton  textiles  in  the  United  States  to  Pntpr^^ 
commercial  relations  with  Argentine  manufacturers  of  knSed  g^^  to'^^^^^^^^ 
textUe  business  in  this  market,  and  recommends  that  Argentine  loZlar  ^presSTt^ 
tives  ascertain  whether  American  cotton  mills  would  dy^  black  and  colStSd^ 
combined.  It  is  stated  that  Argentina  uses  8,800,000  pounds  of  thSe  S  annuaUv 
in  addition  to  about  7,700,000  pounds  of  crude  cotton  thread  ^         annuaUy. 


a  Special  Agents  Series  No.  81. 


240 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTEY. 


Iri  jH^i^w'"^  ??"■?'  ^^^°^  '^'""  "^"'"^^  customs  statistics,  show  imports  of  various 
S  h  nl,^?,^ *°  Ai^entina  in  recent  years,  with  the  principal  .:ouitries  of  o  kC 

L?n'rc';Sirtrt?tKr^n!iaxr^^^ 


Articles  and  j'ears. 


COTTON  HOSIERY. 


Average  for  5  years,  1907-1911 

1912 

1913 


France. 


Ger- 
many. 


Spain. 


LINEN  HOSIERY. 

Average  for  5  years,  1907-1911 

1912 

1913 


WOOLEN  HOSIERY. 

Average  for  5  years,  1907-1911 

1912 

1913 


Pounds. 
267,026 
221,523 


Pou  nds. 

950, 483 

1,094,421 


XIniteil 
Kingdom. 


Poundfi. 
41,663 
34,904 


4S. 138 
55,546 


SILK  HOSIERY. 


Average  for  5  years,  1907-1911 

1912 

1913 ■ 


OTHER  HOSIERY. 

Average  for  5  years,  1907-1911 

1912 

1913 


TOTAL, 


Average  for  5  vears,  1907-1911 

1912 

1913 


19, 156 
15,142 


27.168 
59. 430 


18,263 
2f),  475 


6,027 
7,998 


Pounds. 
21,458 
21,8-'>4 


Other 
countries, 


Total. 


4,270 
4,804 


1.063 
2,000 


8,278 
8,794 


343. 661 
303,005 


443 

4,685 


3,971 
5,165 


1,000,628 
1,190,176 


16,345 
25,086 


Pounds. 
21,301 
25,569 


780 
1,561 


529 
1,594 


275 
1,572 


983 
2,236 


48,673 
45, 138 


2,374 
3,547 


44, 722 
56,81)3 


0  54 
&  1,576 


110 
1,592 


22,774 
31, 892 


a  1  pound  from  United  States. 


Pounds. 
1,;U)1,931 
1,398,271 
1,«07,915 


S6,683 
129.339 
1S5.332 


M,292 
68,297 
61,621 


1,835 

9,833 

13,481 


15,716 
21,334 
35,819 


l,4»iO,458 
1,627,074 
2,204,168 


b  1,215  pounds  from  United  States. 


Figures  sliowing  imports  by  countries  for  1913  are  not  available 
Sifg^tTsThltlVl^lI^^^^^^^^  ----  ^-^-^  ^-.y  into  Argentina 


Kinds  of  hosiery. 


Cotton., 
Linen... 
Woolen. 
Silk 


Jan.  1- 

June  30, 

1913. 


Pounds. 

757,477 

53,996 

54,397 

7, 463 


Jan. 1- 

June30, 

1914. 


Pounds. 

847,477 

42,296 

49,2»)7 

4,683 


Kinds  of  hosiery. 


Other. 


Jan.  1- 

June  30, 

1913. 


PoundK. 
11,;«9 


'^ot^l 884,092 


Jan  1- 

Junp30, 

1914. 


Poundf. 
16.559 


960, 282 


tremely  popular  here  a  few  years  ago,  and  they  are  .till  seen  toallrge  o  St  LnpfT.  1 W 
among  lower  classes.  At  the  present  time  very  light  soValled  ^mu«lfn  »  J^^lf^ 
almost  transpaxent,  axe  in  sty^e.    Here,  a«  elJewferVlo;  pted  b^^^ 


FOREIGN   TBADE. 


241 


best  market.  With  respect  to  imported  hosiery,  the  very  high  specific  duty  t^nds  to 
favor  better  grades,  particularly  tosiery  of  light  weight"^  mile  mos  of  the  hoW 
80ld  here  has  the  seam  down  the  ba<.k,  seamle^  hosiSy  is  popular  aTd  would  r^eive 
the  preference  in  many  quarters,  other  things  being  equaf 

i^JlT,  ^"^  ^"^'^^  ^\  no8'^no  state  that  the  Argentine  industry  is  practically  coii- 
nn  w A?"^??  ^'^i^^f  ^  ^^^^  ^^  ^«^*«^  ^^<1  ^o«le^^  liosiery.    As  duties  are  bLel 

^nSS"*'  It  IS  hard  for  foreign  manufa<^turers  to  compete  in  pVice  in  heavy  Sad^ 
«nn,T   r  '"'  ""^  '^T^'^i'  ^^^  I)niicipal  season  here,    flie  sale  of  straw  hate,  low  shoes 
summer  hosiery,  etc.,  begins  m  September.    The  wholesaler  must  receive  his  summer 

d\se  for  ?itV[/"- "'  '^"  '^'''^'^'  "i  ^"^*-  T^^  i°^P<^rting  jobber  orders  merhT 
dise  for  the  following  summer  m  August  or  September.     The  retailer  who  imports 

1^  ^l'^"^^5'r^"'-^^'^T^^"  ^^  J^^^^^y'  accorcfing  to  the  promptness  of  the  fSir 
in  making  deliveries.  As  a  matter  of  ia^t,  department  stores  atllosario  place  orS 
throughout  the  year.    Some  of  the  leading  stores  send  buyers  to  Europe.^ 

connrti"^  f    ""^^^  ^^^^\^  ^?'"^^^/  ^^  ?^^  preference  of  indmdual  importers.   As  far  as 
general  statements  can  be  ba^ed  on  information  obtained  from  the  few  Rosario  im^ 
porters,  the  trade-marks  of  both  manufacturer  and  importer  are  prefei?^  th^?orm^r 
hemg  a  guaranty  to  the  importer  and  the  latter  to  the^ customer^  DepSmen^^^^^ 
generally  use  their  own  trade-mark  in  connection  with  that  of  mlniSurerTnd 

Cfhi^tnL^k."^'""^^  ""  ''"  ^P'  "^  '''^  ^''''''  mercCSsf  if"  rticles 

The  better  firms  at  Rosario  prefer  to  pay  cash  in  order  to  get  discounts  Recomized 
terms  on  time  payments  are  90  days  from  arrival  of  merchandise.  DepartS^toiS 
that  do  not  seek  credit  much  prefer  to  deal  directly  with  factory  Xme  local  im 
porters  have  had  unfortunate  experiences  with  export  agencies  thS  provS  u^Srup^. 
rSnri^^i'''^  ^'^.^'''  '^^^^  goods  inferior  in  qual/ty  or  not  like  the  sTmples. XrThS- 
S^  !d  ^''•T^  ^^1?^^^'  ^"^^^  "^^^^  ^^^^^bl^'  '""^y  ^«t  be  able  to  continue  to  suppTv 
the  same  articles.  Before  assuming  the  risk  and  trouble  of  introducing  a  new  iSe  the 
importer  must  be  sure  that,  if  marketable,  it  can  be  supplied  regularly 

AUSTBIA-HUNGABY. 

BOHEMIA   EXTENSIVE   USER   OF  SILK  HOSIERY. 
[Consul  Charles  L.  Hoover,  Prague,  Commerce  Reports,  Aug.  6,  1915.] 

^i.^^  \^^r^^et  for  articles  of  luxury,  Prague  furnishes  a  field  perhaps  about  equal  te 

Unitpll  St^tTf  ^/"^  ^'^  •  ^  ?  '^t  ^""^''^^^  '''y  «^  ^^'^  «^  «0  000  inhabitant   he 
United  States,  but  as  it  is  also  the  center  and  logical  distributing  point  of  the  rich 

Kingdom  of  Bohemia,  the  impprUnce  te  American  exporters  of  eslablishing  conn^- 

tions  here  IS  much  greater  than  it  would  be  if  the  market  were  limited  to  the  c  itv TteeTf 

The  great  health  resorts,  Carisbad,  Marienbad,  and  Fmnzensbad,Thich  are  vS 

by  thousands  of  wealthy  persons  each  summer  in  ordinary  yeaii   are  only  a  short 

jb^tance  from  Prague  ani  are  tributary  te  it  commercially.    ThSa  ver?  laLe  retS^ 

the^poorlaliW  of  ^^^^^^  Z  ^^^^?l^^'  ^^P^t"^  hosie^/^  ^^t  the  trade^suffS.^ 
the  poor  quahty  of  the  goods  sold.    A  pair  of  men's  socks  costing  $2  rarely  survives 

and  puu'our-  "  ^'''''^  ^  ^'^'''^^  ^^  '^^*  '^^  longitudLl  thr^s^^'k 

The  use  of  silk  underwear  is  confined  to  the  very  rich  in  ordinary  times  but  it  has 
been  discovered  that  the  vermin  which  always  appear  when  largebo™^  of  men  1^ 
assembled  under  conditions  where  cleanliness'is  i^possiblf^ll  not  live  fn  silk  imder 
clothing    As  it  has  been  ascertained  that  these  vervain  carry  the  gern^  of  the  dreaded 
spotted  fever,  the  sale  of  silk  underclc^hing  ha^  greatly  incTeased  recTnUy  ^^  ^ 

nJ^.li^  most  m  demand  m  men's  underwear  are  "champagne"  or  light  pongee 
W,if?r  ^"^f^  ^  ?^'^'  probably  from  Macao,  from  which  pongee  was  oriSw 

f^roff^'i  T""^"'^  f^^i^f  •     ^^l^  ^"^1  ^^^^^^  ^''^  knee  drawers  are  in  Sand 
Coat    shirte  are  not  well  known,  but  are  well  liked  by  those  who  have  used  them" 
Regular  undershirte  are  similar  in  form  to  those  used  in  America 
»Ja^1  ^omen's  silk  underveste  are  used,  and  there  is  no  demand  for  union  suite     It  is 
said  that  women's  under^rmente  consist  of  a  muslin  or  silk  chemise.    The  i^per  pa^t 

ni^^  ^*j5f  'f  J'T*  "^^^^^  \y  k^'"^^  ^"^^^  J^^k^ts  worn  under  the  cloth  coat.Tb  Wur 
coate,  while  the  fewer  limbs  are  clothed  next  te  the  skin  in  a  garment  called  '^Reform 
Hosen,'  which  reaches  from  the  waistline  to  the  knees,  and  is  held  in  place  by  ela^t^ 
bands  at  these  pomte.  This  combination  of  underclothing  is  said  te  be  mdte  goS 
throughout  Europe  so  that  exporters,  in  arranging  for  this  market!  wil?not  be  pj^ 
paring  anything  which  would  not  be  salable  elsew'here.  ^ 

9963°— 15 16 


242 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


243 


H 


Men's  silk  socks  are  sold  almost  exclusively  in  solid  colors,  usually  black  with  deco- 
rative clocks.  Women's  stockings  are  sold  in  all  colors  to  match  cUffereiit  costumes. 
All  silk  knit  goods  sold  in  this  market  have  been  imported  in  the  past  from  Grenoble, 
France;  Chenmitz,  Germany;  and  Zurich,  Switzerland. 

Terms  of  payment  vary  greatly,  but  as  a  general  rule  a  discount  of  5  per  cont  is 
allowed  for  cash  within  30  days,  with  six  to  nine  months  net.  Under  the  present 
moratorium  the  custom  is  to  pay  cash  on  delivery  of  the  goods,  and  merchants  report 
that  they  are  so  well  pleased  with  the  arrrangeinent  that  it  is  probable  the  old  system 
of  long  credits  will  never  again  become  general . 

BRAZIL 

OPPORTUNITIES  FOR  AMERICANT   MANUFACTURERS, 
[Vice  Consul  General  Joseph  J.  Slechta,  Rio  de  Janeiro,  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  July  24, 1911,] 

In  Spite  of  the  protection  afforded  domestic  industries  engaged  in  the  manufacture 
of  knit  goods  in  Brazil,  the  field  offers  opportunities  for  the  export  of  American-made 
goods  which  indifference,  on  the  part  of  American  manufacturers  has  made  of  little 
account. 

Statistics  of  foreign  trade  as  at  present  compiled  do  not  specify  separately  the  dif- 
ferent classes  of  knit  goods,  with  the  exception  o I'  hosiery.  The  tot al  imports  of  hosiery 
into  Brazil  amounted  in  1909  to  about  $124,000 — nearly  25  per  c<Mit  less  than  in  the 
year  preceding.  Of  this  total,  Germany  sold  75  per  cent  ancf  FratK  e  most  of  tht?  rest. 
American  hosiery,  especially  for  men,  is  so  greatly  superior  to  the  dom«'stic  product 
and  to  that  importea  from  Germany  and  France  that  a  little  well-directed  effort  on 
the  part  of  American  exporters  would  be  certain  to  get  trade.  It  is  practically  iinpos- 
eible  to  buy  hose  in  Rio  de  Janeiro  that  are  not  seamed  in  such  way  as  to  cau8<3  one 
used  to  American-made  hose  to  marvel  that  Americans  have  not  secured  complete 
control  of  the  market  in  this  item. 

Considerable  quantities  of  underwear,  sweaters,  scarfs,  and  other  knitted  goods  are 
are  imported,  but  exact  figures  can  not  be  obtained.  Probably  the  most  important 
item  is  that  of  underwear,  and  British  and  Frt^nch  goods  predominate  in  this  line. 
The  finer  grades  of  French  goods  seem  especially  in  demand  by  reawon  of  the  fine  finish. 
That  light  grades  of  well-made  and  well-finished  American  uiiderw((ar  could  be 
sold  here,  there  can  be  no  question.  In  fact,  a  young  American  who  has  for  a  year 
past  been  resident  in  Rio  de  Janeiro  as  a  manufacturer's  agent  has  found  no  difiiculty 
in  securing  trial  orders  for  such  goods. 

The  American  manufacturer  who  is  desirous  of  obtaining  a  foothold  in  the  Brazilian 
markets  had  best  not  waste  his  time  and  money  to  that  end  unless  he  is  prepared  to  get 
direct  representation.  Absolutely  nothing  can  be  done  by  catalogues  or  by  corres- 
pondence with  local  firms.  Several  producers  of  noncompeting  lines  should  combine 
in  putting  a  good  man  on  the  field  and  enabling  him  to  spend  sufficient  capital  to  give 
the  matter  a  fair  trial.  Such  a  representative  must  be  one  who  is  willing  to  leaA  e  his 
own  country  for  a  good  salary  and  commission.  With  such  repr(^84mtation  American 
goods  can  be  sold  in  Brazil  on  their  merits,  and  that  is  precisely  what  they  have  not 
had  an  opportunity  to  do  heretofore. 

Exporters  in  the  United  States,  not  merely  of  these  lines  but  of  many  other  products, 
have  attempted  to  settle  the  question  of  whether  there  is  a  market,  here  for  their  goods 
along  academic  lines,  in  sharp  contrast  with  the  methods  by  whi<h  they  sell  goods  in 
the  United  States.  Manufacturers  habitually  request  that  they  be  furnished  with 
tariff  schedules,  local  prices,  shipping  regulations  and  customs,  credit  terms,  etc., 
and  then  with  such  data  at  hand  have  attempttnl  to  settle  the  question  of  foreign  trade. 
While  it  may  be  important  to  have  such  data,  it  is  much  more  1o  the  point  to  learn 
what  kinds  of  goods  are  wanted,  supply  such  goods,  and  take  tliem  to  the  importer 
and  find  out  whether  he  will  buy  them.  The  importer  will  very  willingly  tak<*  care 
of  the  matter  of  duty,  shipping  instructions,  credit  terms,  etc.,  if  the  goods  and  the 
prices  suit  him. 

CANADA. 

PARTICULARLY  GOOD  MARKET  FOR  PINE   AMERICAN   GOODS. 
[Consul  Henry  T.  Starret,  (^wen  Sound,  Ontario,  Feb .  25, 1915,  Commerce  Reports,  Mar.  13, 191/i.] 

The  effect  of  the  disturbed  conditions  in  Europe  on  the  knit-goods  trade  of  Canada 
has  been  to  produce  some  radical  changes  in  buying.  Certain  continental  goods  are 
no  longer  popular,  buyers  even  refusing  to  consider  surplus  stocks  held  by  impc»rters, 
and  local  dealers  frankly  state  that  they  now  wish  immediate  quotations  on  these 


goods  from  American  manufacturers.  The  foresight  of  at  least  one  large  American 
hosiery  company  has  resulted  in  the  establishment  of  a  bmnch  factorx^  in  Ontario  to 
suoply  this  additional  Canadian  trade.  .         '^"^*^rio  lo 

U  hen  it  is  stated  that  Canada's  annual  purchases  of  hosiery  and  knitted  ffimcU 
approximate  $20,000,000  the. importance  of  tliis  market  as  a  field  frimeHcan  ?^a  es 
IS  evident.     Canadian  factories  supply  some  65  per  cent  of  this  trade,  the  remaininjj 

GermLy''    '"''"''''^  '"^         ^^*  "^^'^^^  ^"^"^  ^'^^  ^"^^^'  *^^  United  SuISrand 

wiTiI'!  ^^°^l'7^''y  elimination  of  continental  goods  as  a  factor  in  this  trade,  to-ether 
with  a  considerable  restrictionm  the  British  export  on  account  of  furnishing  mriltarv 
supplies  creates  a  arge  deficit  in  Canada's  importation  of  these  lines  WTiile  dZeS 
m^ufacturers  will  profit  to  some  extent  by 'present  conditions,  tLir  ptos  Te  imt 
sufficiently  equipped  nor  are  certain  raw  materials  readily  avai  able  trenable  them 
to  produce  many  of  the  medium  and  high  grades  demanded  by  the  tride  Yn  view  ^f 
l^^Z^^^U^f^^^'^^  ^'^^^''  ^^^^  ^  *^^  United  States  to  make  up  the  deficiency  an 
^lltg  agenctr''"^''  ^''^'''*^''  "^  ^'"^^  '^^'^^"^  consideraUon  to  their  Canadian 

There  is  a  particularly  good  market  for  the  finer  grades  of  American  cotton  and  lisle 
hosiery  for  men  and  women,  aa  well  a^  for  cotton  mesh  and  dimity  underwear  Mer^ 
chants  repeatedly  refer  to  these  ^oods  as  being  most  in  demand  at  thL  tiSe 

Knit  goods  are  imported  by  jobbers  or  bought  on  order  through  manufacturers' 
agents  located  at  Montreal  and  Toronto,  the  jobbers'  profit  being  appfoxTmatel^  10  rSr 

Xr  oMhptj^^'r'  ^rj'^Tir  ^2^^^§  ^«°^  ^  ^  ^^V^'  cent,^ac?ordinnotL  char- 
acter of  the  hue  handled.  A  1  such  goods  are  sold  to  (fealers  ok  terms  of  3  per  cent ^ 
days,  net  60  days,  open  credit,  quotations  being  f.  o.  b.  jobber's  ^C^naJilnmani^ 
facturer  s  shipping  point  Foreign  manufacturers'  terms  to  importei^  botMSi 
and  dealers,  are  practically  the  same,  although  the  practice  of  advai^'e  Sni  of  iT 

Z^t  Lr^/ff^i"  P'^'^JT"  ^^"y  ^^''  ^VOTt^rs  one  to  two  months'  addlt'onai 
credit.     Some  of  the  larger  dealers  save  commissions  and  jobbers'  profits  bv  maintain 

ZHIpT;^  TT  '^  ^^'^^^^^f  ^"^^^^^^'  ^^^  France,  in  which  c^epa^ymenf^e 
made  direct  to  the  foreign  manufacturer  or  his  agent  p^tymeuii,  are 

The  grades  of  underwear  most  in  demand  are  men's  balbri^an  to  sell  at  50  oonu  «i 
garment ;  men's  ^antcr  all-wool  and  mixed,  to  sell  at  $1 ;  woSs  cotton  opfn^^^^^^^^^ 
plain  knit,  to  sell  at  25  cents;  women's  winter  all-wool  and  mi^ed,  toTu  Tt  $1  per 
fn  S  Ti,  ^K^!l^^?i?''?  'T^-  T  ^?  ^^  '^O  ^^'  ^^'^  aiid  34  to  38  draweS  womefiVle 
IJSi  7o^  ^''l^  ""^  ^^^  ^'^^^  "^  ^""^^^'y  i«  i^  cotton-and-wool  mixed  socks  fTmen  to 
retail  at  25  cents;  cashmere,  35  cents;  women's  cotton  stockings  2  wrfor2rcentl 

9?irtome^^"'^''  ^'  '""'''  '^"  '''''  "^"^'  ^"  ^"°^^^^  '^'^  ^^  ll^mex,  and  9 1 

CHILE. 

LARGEST  IMPORTS   OP  SILK  HOSIERY  FROM  THE   UNITED   STATES. 
[Commercial  Attach^  Verne  L.  Havens,  Santiago,  Commerce  Reports,  June  10, 1915.] 

th^tTouXTi  WK  $f  5^67  wo'ff  °^-  ^r^  '^""^^^  2^  ^°^P«^  ^^«^  ^1'996  worth  from 
mai  country  in  1914   $1,567  worth  from  Germany,  $989  worth  from  Franre   an,!  «i'^ 

worth  from  Japan.  In  discussing  the  possibiUty  of  sales  of  th^Trtkle  wlt^a  we^^^^^ 
known  dealer  m  men's  supplies  the  writer  w^iq  inf/^i^Y.^.!  *v,^V^  ^lucie  wiin  a  well- 
firms  in  Santiago  and  VafpSo  whrml^H^Stw^^^  c^'rtlinrw^uM 

be-mterested  m  seeing  samples  of  American  socks.     It  would  brnecesirv^^^^^ 
one  should  represent  the  American  firm  and  have  samples  Wt  it  wS^fotlt^^t 
sary  that  samples  be  sent  to  the  various  prospective  rS  dealers      At  prein^^^^^ 
likely  that  any  firm  would  be  willing  to  tie  up  its  money  for  a  W  ti^e  S  m!nl  r-.! 
against  documents  for  sUk  socks.    If  a  responsible  nereon  c^nM  hiT,,,^^^^^         ^^ 
carry  a  small  supply  American  sales  woul57robab?y  W^^^^^^  when  il  fs 

difficult  for  competitors  to  enter  the  field.  ^^^<^,  especially  when  it  is 

^?i.-i^^^i^®  ^P}1^^  ^^^^s  was  the  lai^est  seller  of  silk  stocking  tn  PhHo  ^«^  Aii 


244  THE   HOSIERY   INDUSTRY. 

CHINA. 

AMERICAN   SILK  HOSIERY   < SAINING   GROUND. 

(Vice  Consul  General  A.  E.  Carleton,  Hongkong,  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  10,  1913.J 

Tn  the  opinion  of  Hongkong  merchants,  silk  hosiery  made  in  the  United  St^ites  is 
gaming  ground  m  the  1-ar  East,  although  the  importations  are  m  yet  unimportant 
One  of  the  largest  retailers  m  that  colony  says  thiit  its  reasonable  price  and  the  improve- 
ments \yhich  make  it  almost  immune  to  the  t'ffects  of  that  climate  will  inrre;use  its 
po]mlarity,  but  that  the  American  product  in  a  measure  lacks  the  luxurious  "feel" 
and  appearance  of  the  Eiu-opean  product.  The  silk  hosiery  made  in  Japan  withntands 
the  dampness,  but  its  appearance  and  cut  are  not  popular  with  lliiropean  buyers  A 
Cierman  make  of  cotton  and  fine  wool,  interwoven  with  sUk,  sellins:  at  $1  25  gold  finds 
a  ready  sale.  ,-,'»'&,       v^d 

Germany  and  Japan  are  the  principal  sounes  of  supply  for  the  foreign  hosiery 
imported  at  Canton,  and  only  a  cheap  grade  is  sold.  The  Chinew  women,  like  the 
C  hmese  men,  wear  socks,  which  are  invariably  of  cotton,  and  the  sale  of  silk  storkiuffs 
Jfn^'^'S^V^  1^^  IT  ^""^^'SJ'  ^^^^^  ^^  *^^  district,  who  number  probably  not  more  than 
t  \  The  local  demand  is  largely  supplied  from  Hongkong.  Ladies'  silk  hose  sell 
for  about  $1  and  men's  socks  for  $0.75.  "«       o 

The  sale  of  silk  hosiery  in  Shanghai  and  Tientsin  is  also  confined  to  the  small  for- 
eign population,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  Chinese  ladies  who  adopt  European  dress 
on  certain  occasions  Prices  in  those  cities  range  from  $1.25  to  $2.50  per  pair  In 
JLientsin  the  demand  is  largely  supplied  by  Japanese  silk  hose  selling  for  $1  12*  to 
$1,50  gold.  °        -^  •     3 

HIGH-GRADE  AMERICAN  HOSIERY  IN   DEMAND. 

[Consul  General  George  E.  Anderson,  Hongkong,  Nov.  8, 1914,  Commerce  Reiwts,  Jan.  19,  I9i.i.] 

While  the  imports  of  hosiery  into  China  during  the  past  few  years  have  formed  one 
of  the  principal  items  of  clothing  piux;haaed  abroad  and  have  increased  immenselv 
the  increasing  proportion  of  the  trade  held  by  Hongkong  and  by  native  knitting  estab- 
lishments IS  the  great  feature  of  the  trade  and  is  Hkely  to  show  immensely  greater 
prominence  m  the  immediate  future.  The  net  imports  of  hosiery  into  all  Cliina  in  1913 
amounted  to  2,109,301  dozens,  valued  at  $1,S97,003,  a^  compared  wth  1  345  959 
dozens  valued  at  $910  852  in  1912,  736,467  dozens,  vilued  at  1)01,524  in  1911  and 
/98,477  dozens,  valued  at  $631,261  in  1910,  and  smaller  imports  previouslv  The 
average  valuation  in  1913,  therefore,  was  66.2  cents  gold  per  dozen:  m  1912  the  aver- 
age price  was  67.6  cents,  in  1911  it  was  74.9  cents,  and  in  1910  it.wa^  80  cents  gold 
ihis  course  of  prices  illustrates  perfectly  the  course  of  the  trade  Ui)  to  191 L  the 
vastly  greater  portion  of  the  trade  represented  imports  of  hosiery  into  Chinese  ports  for 
the  use  of  foreigners  and  comparatively  few  higher  class  Chinese  users  of  foreign  or 
semitoreign  clotlung,  or  at  least  of  various  foreign-style  garments 

About  the  time  of  the  revolution  the  use  of  liosiery  of  the  cheapest  sort  came  to  be 
more  and  more  common  among  the  less  well-to-do  classes  of  the  Cliinese  population 
About  the  saine  time  there  developed  a  considerable  industry  in  the  way  of  Hmali 
kmtting  factones  for  hosiery  and  knit  underwear  in  south  China  and  Hongkone's  trade 
territ(>^i'y.  Japan  commenced  to  develop  an  increased  trade  in  such  ^>ods  Up  to 
that  time  Great  Britain  had  a  large  portion  of  the  trade  in  th(^  higher  class  L'oods 
tln-oiigh  Hong  W,  but  the  chief  portion  of  the  trade  direct  was  from  Gennanv  and 
Japan.  In  1910  Germany  had  about  30  per  cent,  Japan  about  18.5  i)er  cent,  Hongkong 
about  42  per  cent,  and  the  rest  scattering,  the  Hongkong  trade  representing  GermaS 
goods  for  the  cheaper  gravies  and  Enghsh  goods  f(  .r  the  higher  grades.  TherTwere  few 
smpments  of  importance  of  native-made  goods  In  1911  Germany  had  about  25  per 
cent,  Hongkong  about  36  per  cent,  and  Japan  al)out  28  per  cent  of  the  trade,  with  the 
rest  scattering.  In  1912  Germany  had  about  29  per  cent,  Japan  about  30  per  cent 
and  Hongkong  about  35  per  cent.  i-  .      r  ou  p«i  cem. 

On  the  whole  trade,  therefore,  Japan  has  steadily  gained  at  the  expense  of  its  two 
chief  competitors  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  trade  has  increased  in  very  much  larger 
proportion  than  that  indicated  in  their  respecti^'e  shares  for  1912,  for  not  only  were  the 
imports  m  1913  much  larger,  but  the  amount  of  these  goods  manufacturedf  in  China 
Itself  was  very  much  greater.  While  in  the  earlier  years  the  proportion  of  the  trade 
in  cheap  goods  handled  through  Hongkong  was  almost  entirely  German,  it  has  been 
largely  of  Hongkong  or  south  China  make  in  the  past  two  vears 

What  tlie  result  of  the  war  in  Europe  is  to  be  on  this  trade 'is  somewhat  problematical. 
On  the  face  of  things  the  large  share  of  the  trade  held  by  Germany  ought  to  be  available 
tor  outside  competition,  and  this  is  unquestionably  the  case  with  Idgher  grade  goods 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


245 


from  the  Umted  States.  For  the  great  mass  of  cheap  goods  manufactured  for  use  ..i 
the  ordinary  Chinese  buyer,  however,  it  is  doubtful  if  United  States  mills  can  compete 
or  will  care  to  compete  successfully  with  the  local  Hongkong  and  south  ( 'hina  factories 
tor  the  south  China  trade,  and  with  the  Japanese  factories  for  the  trade  in  the  Yan<'tz<' 
Valley. 

The  labor  element  in  manufaetiu-e  seems  to  be  the  cliief  factor  in  favor  of  the  nati\  e- 
made  goods,  for  most  of  the  native  factories  use  American  knitting  yarn  The  crouds 
manufactured  by  the  local  factories  are  coarse  and  lack  finish  and  other  desirable  quali- 
ties biit  they  are  serviceable  and  cheap,  and,  being  the  first  goods  ever  used  by  man v 
ot  the  Clunese,  they  are  free  from  invidious  comparisons.  The  larger  ijortion  of  the 
output  is  from  small  home  factories  where  the  cost  of  labor  is  at  a  minimum.  Japanese 
goods  competing  with  these  native  products  have  the  advantage  of  low  freic'ht  rate^ 
convenience  to  the  markets  for  studying  demand  as  to  colors  and  styles,  and  suiieri(jr 
machinery  of  distribution  among  the  native  dealers. 

The  United  States  has  commenced  to  sell  some  considerable  amounts  of  hosiery  in 
the  larger  Chinese  ports  m  the  past  two  years,  but  the  goods  are  almost  exclusiveh- 
high  grade,  including  silk  and  cotton  and  silk  hose.  The  American  ^^cK^ds  are  iii 
good  demand  with  high-class  buyers.  Cheaper  grades  of  American  goods  would  sell 
in  the  market  on  their  merits.  German  goods  usually  have  been  serviceable 
inclined  to  be  large  for  their  respective  sizes,  lose  their  shape  easily,  and  "pull'' 
easily;  that  is,  give  unduly  in  one  part  of  the  garment  and  tighten  in  others  The 
native^made  goods  have  similar  faults,  but  come  very  cheap.  Ordinary  grades  of 
recogmzed  local  brands  or  chops  sell  around  $2  local  currency  or  86  cents  gold  per 
?i?^^\-.  Z^""""^  usually  in  whites,  blacks  (of  poor  dye),  light  blues,  and  browns; 
the  whites,  blues,  and  blacks  being  much  more  popular.  They  are  usually  sold  by 
the  factones  here  direct  to  the  Chinese  middlemen,  while  the  foreign  goods  such  as 
the  German,  are  usually  sold  through  the  import  commission  houses  Japanese  goods 
also  are  sold  tlu-ough  Japanese  firms  directly  to  the  Chinese  middlemen. 

PROMISING   OUTLOOK   FOR   AMERICAN   MANUFACTURERS. 
[Vice  Consul  General  C.  P.  McKiernan,  Shanghai,  Dec.  14, 1914,  Commerce  Reports,  Feb.  IS,  1915.] 

Large  quantities  of  socks  are  imported  into  China;  the  cheaper  qualities  having 
come  from  Gemiany  and  the  bPtter  quaUties,  especially  -macco  socks,"  chiefly  from 
H^ngland.  \\ithin  the  last  few  years  Japan  has  entered  the  field  and  is  com'petinc 
most  successfully.  Natives  also  have  engaged  in  the  manuf actiu-e  of  socks,  and  foreign 
machinery  for  this  purpose  has  found  a  good  market  in  China.  It  is  believed  that 
there  is  a  promising  outlook  at  present  for  American  manufacturers  to  compete  along 
these  lines  though  as  the  native  industry  develops  and  the  Japanese  trade  increasS 
there  will  be  a  gradually  dimimshing  demand  for  other  goods 

The  net  imports  of  hosiery  into  China  from  foreign  countries  increased  from  707,051 
dozens  in  1909  to  1,345,959  dozens  in  1912,  and  to  2, 109,301  dozens  in  1913.  The  follow- 
ing were  the  imports  from  the  chief  sources  of  supply  for  the  period  1909-1912  (the 
latest  year  for  which  statistics  by  countries  are  available)- 


Whence  Imported. 


Hongkong 

Great  Britain 

Germany 

Austria-Hungary 
Japan 


1909 


Dozen. 

269,952 

14,065 

203,237 

33,693 

140,920 


1910 


Dozen. 

361,912 

9,799 

177,539 

42,042 

184,939 


1911 


Dozen. 

255,452 

17,596 

126,927 

28,590 

300,323 


1912 


Dozen. 
371,665 

31,381 
173,007 

71,061 
691,003 


Leaving  out  of  consideration  the  amounts  imported  from  Hongkong,  which  represent 
mostly  imports  from  Europe  transshipped  at  that  port,  it  will  be  seen  that  GeXaTy^s 
imports  during  the  four  years  decreased  about  15  per  cent;  that  those  from  Great 
Britamand  Austna-Hungaiy  more  than  doubled;  and  tliat  those  from  Japan  i^crS 
almost  fivefold.  The  imports  from  the  United  States  were  only  1,883  dozenhi  m^ 
but  there  were  none  in  1909.  ^    '        ^"^*^"  ^  ^yi-, 

Chinese-made  socks  are  of  coarse,  inelastic  cotton  cloth  and  are  kept  adjusted  to  the 
leg  by  a  strap,  usually  of  cotton.  Socks  of  foreign  manufacture,  which  i^  preferred 
fn^f  'TT""^  T^^T  Z^  9'^^rl.  ^^  P^^^^^  ^«tt«^'  the  shape  of  theXk  co^ 
quahties  selling  at  3  shilhngs  (73  cents)  up  per  dozen  c.  i.  f .  Shanghai,  and  white  is  the 


246 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


i 


most  popular  color.  Fancy  socks,  the  designs  being  small  stars  or  flowers,  are  also  very 
much  m  favor.  These  range  in  price  up  to  |1 .46  per  dozen.  \V  inter  socks  are  im- 
ported mostly  from  England.     Prices  vary  from  $1.46  per  dozen  up. 

A  large  business  is  carried  on  in  women's  socks,  the  importance  of  which  is  realized 
by  few  foreign  manufacturers.  Socks  in  plain  colors  costing  about  73  cents  per  dozen 
are  the  best  sellers  of  this  class,  though  there  iw  also  a  large  mark»»t  for  women's  fancy 
socks.  Chinese  taste  is  constantly  changing,  but  at  present  women's  fancy  socks  are 
mostly  spotted;  practically  none  are  striped.  New  samples  are  constantly  required 
^h^  smallness  and  shape  of  the  Chinese  woman's  foot  are  of  great  importance 

The  following  are  the  usual  assortments  in  th<>  case  of  100  dozeii8:  Women's  socka— 
size  6^,  15  dozens;  size  7,  30  dozens;  size  7^  25  dozens;  size  8,  20  dozens;  size  Si   10 
dozens.     Men  s  socks— size  8,  5  dozens;  size  8^,  25  dozens;  size  9,  40  dozens;  size  9* 
25  dozens;  size  10,  5  dozens. 

nnn^i^^^  Selling  at  $1.22  up  are  usually  packed  r^O  dozens  to  the  case;  poorer  qualities 
100  dozens  to  the  case.  Moreover,  they  are  packed  1  dozen  to  a  carton  if  of  poorer 
quality  and  one-half  dozen  to  a  carton  if  of  bettor  quality.  Glazed  green  paper  should 
be  used;  otherwise  it  will  be  thought  that  the  socks  are  of  Japanese  make  Every 
dozen  or  half-dozen,  as  the  case  may  be,  should  be  scuttled  with  two  silk  ribbons 
and  should  be  wrapped  with  a  strip  of  white  glazed  paper  bearing  the  trade-mark  and 
Chinese  name  of  the  importing  firm.  These  extra  expenses  must  be  borne  by  the 
manufacturer  and  should  be  taken  into  consideration  in  fixing  prices. 

There  is  a  limited  business  in  women's  black  stockings  selling  at  $1  22  to  $1 1*5  per 
dozen.     These  are  packed  50  dozens  to  the  case.  ' 

^   The  trade  in  socks  and  stockings  of  the  best  grades,  which  are  sold  to  foreikmers 
IS  confined  almost  entirely  to  British  importing  firms  having  agents  in  London. 

HOSIERY  TRADE   IN   SOUTH  CHINA. 
[Consul  General  George  E.  Anderson,  Hongkonp,  Commerce  Reports,  May  28, 1915.] 

Present  indications  are  that  Chinese-made  hosiery  will  supplant  almost  entirely 
the  supply  of  such  goods  which  formerly  came  from  Germany  and  Austria  to  supplv 
the  cheap  Chinese  trade.  ' 

In  recent  months  the  Japanese  goods  have  come  to  be  less  in  favor,  for  while  they 
made  a  good  appearance  and  in  general  are  designed  to  supplant  German  goods  the 
Chinese  user  has  found  them  of  inferior  quality.  On  the  other  hand,  the  h..siery 
f^  .  j"l^*^^^^."^^^^  ^^^^  factories  in  South  China  and  in  the  larger  establishments 
started  by  Chinese  capitalists  both  in  Hongkcng  and  vicinity  an.i  in  Shanghai  has 
been  found  by  Chinese  users  to  be  greatly  superior  to  the  Japanese  in  wearing  qual- 
ities. At  the  same  time  these  factories  have  succeeded  in  turning  out  goods  of  very 
fair  appearance  With  their  usual  discrimination  in  such  things.  Chinese  consumers 
are  turning  to  tlie  product  of  their  own  concerns  as  representing  better  value 

The  present  situation  in  this  trade,  therefore,  represents  a  divinion  of  the  trade  on 
the  one  hand  between  ('heap  Chinese-made  g<x)d8  with  a  decreasing  import  of  such 
cheap  goods  from  Japan  and  practically  no  competition  in  such  cheai)  goods  from 
Europe,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  the  import  of  American  and  Euirlish  hosiery  for  the 
finer  trade  The  course  of  this  latter  trade  of  late  has  been  rather  in  favor  of  American 
goods.     Whether  this  shall  continue  is  largely,  if  not  entirely,  a  matter  of  quality  and 

The  manufacture  of  Chinese-made  hosiery  all  over  China  involves  the  increosinc* 
use  of  Japanese  hosiery  yarns,  largely  two-ply  No.  32  yam,  especially  in  the  Yangtz? 
Valley  and  to  some  extent  m  Hongkong  and  south  China.  Most  of  the  factorien  and 
the  trade  in  south  China  generally  continue  the  use  of  American  yarn,  and  the  Houth 
China  goods,  other  things  being  equal,  are  said  to  be  preferred  by  the  Chinese  consumer, 
both  in  the  south  and  in  other  portions  of  China.  The  Chinese-made  goods  have  the 
advantage  of  the  5  per  cent  ad  valorem  import  duty  on  goods  import(;d  from  Japan  but 
apparently  the  superior  wearing  quality  of  the  Chinese  goods  generally,  and  e4)ei 'ially 
those  from  south  China,  IS  the  determining  factor  in  the  trade  at  present 

A  large  share  of  the  hosiery  now  being  made  in  Hongkong  is  going  to  Manila,  where 
the  demand  for  such  goods  for  the  use  of  the  Fihpinos  is  increasing  very  rapidlv  The 
^nt  t7  ^^^i^g  ^hiPP^d  is  of  tlie  cheapest  quality,  tliough  it  represents  real  merit  as 
to  wear.  Ihe  demand  m  the  islands  is  for  hosiery  of  the  brightest  colors  A  Hone- 
kong  factory  has  recently  filled  an  order  for  a  l<.t  of  such  goods  put  up  in  boxe«  of  a 
half-dozen  pairs  to  the  box,  it  being  specified  that  each  box  shall  contain  a  pair, 
respectively,  of  green,  red,  yellow,  pink,  purple,  and  blue  hose. 


FOREIGN   TRADE.  247 

COLOMBIA. 

IMPORTS   FROM  VARIOUS  COUNTRIES. 
[Consul  Ross  Hazeltine,  Cartagena,  Commerce  Reports,  June  7, 1915.J 

In  spite  of  severe  competition  from  local  manufacturers  and  the  obstacle  of  a  rather 
high  import  duty,  the  imports  of  hosiery  through  the  port  of  C^artagena  during  the  past 
calendar  year  amounted  to  $14,520.  This  may  be  ac(!epted  as  approximately  one- 
third  the  total  imports  into  ( 'olombia  during  the  same  period.  Of  this  trade  Germany 
enjoyed  G7  per  cent,  although  German  imports  ceased  after  August  4,  1914.  The 
imports  at  Cartagena  by  countries  were  as  follows  in  1914:  From  Germany,  $9,742: 
United  Kingdom,  $1,032;  France,  $996;  Spain,  $974;  United  States,  $694;  all  other 
countries,  $1,082;  total,  $14,520. 

Europe  has  held  the  hosiery  trade  in  this  and  other  South  American  countries 
because  it  supplies  a  durable,  cheap  cotton  and  lisle  article  adapted  to  local  tastes  and 
requirements.  The  kind  of  hose  sold  here  would  not  be  popular  in  the  Umted  States. 
As  a  rule  the  domestic  product  is  not  as  shapely  nor  as  durable  as  the  American-made 
hose.  However,  the  initial  cost  of  the  article  seems  to  be  the  deciding  factor.  For 
example,  European  open-work  cotton  socks  retail  at  $0.50  to  $0.70.  Such  socks  are 
not  the  equivalent  in  value,  shape,  or  durability  of  American  socks  selling  at  $0.35 
retail  in  the  United  States.  The  European  product  is  much  more  fancy  than  either 
the  domestic  product  or  the  American,  and  this  fact  must  be  given  due  weight.  How- 
ever, the  American  product  deserves  a  much  higher  position  in  foreign  trade,  and  it  is 
believed  that  if  the  trade  is  carefully  cultivated  American  manufacturers  will  find  a 
good  outlet  for  their  products,  especially  in  the  light-weight  cotton  and  lisle  goods 

The  local  factory  turns  out  good  hose  and  enjoys  a  fine  local  trade.  The  factory  is 
equipped  with  35  American  knitting  machines  and  is  operated  by  an  American 
superintendent. 

The  import  duties  on  hosiery  are  as  follows:  Cotton,  $1  per  kilo  ($0,454  per  poimd)- 
Imen,  $1.20  per  kilo  ($0,544  per  pound);  wool,  $1.60  per  kilo  ($0,726  per  pound) ;  silk,' 
$3.50  per  kilo  ($1,588  per  poundV^  These  duties  are  levied  on  the  gross  weight,  and 
this  fact  invites  attention  to  the  European  custom  of  packing  highly  dutiable  textiles 
in  bales  instead  of  boxes.  Perhaps  this  practice  could  advantageously  be  followed  by 
American  exporters  of  hosiery  and  other  textiles,  inasmuch  as  the  8a\ing  on  a  single 
package  may  easily  amount  to  $20  or  more.  Correspondence  should  always  be  in 
Spanish,  but  prices  may  be  quoted  in  American  currency.  Samples  can  be  sent  by 
parcel  post.  ' 

FBANCE. 

AMERICAN   SILK  HOSIERY   EXTENSIVELY  SOLD. 
(Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19, 1913.) 

In  Paris  certain  well-known  brands  of  American  silk  hosiery  enjoy  an  extensive  sale 
being  found,  among  other  places,  in  neariy  all  the  stores  where  American  shoes  are 
sold.  Little  effort  has  apparently  been  made  to  extend  their  sale  in  other  parts  of 
I^ra,nce,  although  the  demand  for  this  class  of  goods  is  steadily  increasing  in  those 
regions  The  prices  of  French  silk  hose  are  higher  than  those  for  which  American  hone 
are  sold,  either  m  the  United  States  or  in  France.  For  instance,  American  sot-ks  can 
be  purchased  m  Paris  for  60  cents  a  pair,  while  it  is  difficult  to  find  French  socks  for  less 
than  80  cents. 

Efforts  have  been  made  to  introduce  English  and  German  hosiery  into  Rouen  w4th- 
out  much  success,  as  the  goods  were  too  light.  The  Norman  trade  demands  strong 
thick  goods,  plain  rather  than  fancy,  as  durability  is  the  first  consideration  M(5t 
of  the  Rouen  dealers  buy  from  agents  in  Paris,  Lyons,  or  other  distributing  centers  and 
carry  only  small  stocks,  on  account  of  the  ease  with  which  telephone  orders  can  be 
SI  ?nV  ^o  .n  ^""^  for  men  sell  in  Rouen  for  $1.20  to  $2  per  pair,  and  for  women  from 
$1.50  to  $2.50  per  pair.  This  class  of  goods  is  said  to  make  up  about  one-tenth  of  the 
entire  sale  of  hosiery. 

GERMANY. 

IMPORTS   OF  AMERICAN   HOSIERY   STEADILY   INCREASING. 

[Consul  Thomas  H.  Norton,  Chemnitz,  Germany,  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19, 1913.1 

While  it  seems  like  conveying  coals  to  Newcastle  to  attempt  to  introduce  American 
Jmit  goods  into  Germany,  yet  shipments  of  American  hosiery  to  the  German  market 
in  steadily  increasing  amounts  are  now  a  matter  of  daily  occurrence.    The  trade  u 


248 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


FOREIGN    TRADE. 


249 


i  f 


assuming  such  size  that  the  hosiery  manufacturers  of  Chemnitz  ar(5  beginning  to  feel 
Bome  apprehension  as  to  the  possible  entry  of  the  world's  market,  at  n«»  remote  date,  by 
American  manufacturers.  The  essential  facts  in  connection  with  I  his  appearance  of 
American  hosiery  in  the  country  which  has  hitherto  been  the  chi<if  source  of  supply 
for  a  number  of  European  markets,  and  for  most  non-European  coimtries,  with  the 
exception  of  the  United  States,  are  worthy  of  note  as  illustrating  ]>os8ibilities  along 
other  lines  of  manufacture. 

One  noteworthy  feature  in  the  movement  has  been  the  widespread  effort  to  di8j)Ose 
of  American  hosiery  in  direct  connection  with  the  sale  of  American  shoes.  One  enter- 
prising American  hosiery  firm  haa  made  a  pronounced  success  in  this  direction,  and 
its  stockings  and  socks  of  good  quality  and  at  popular  prices  have  regularly  been  offered 
for  sale  along  with  American  footwear  in  all  leading  German  cities.  The  prices  and 
quality  have  created  a  distinct  demand,  and  German  dealers  have  turned  to  Americ^an 
sources  to  secure  the  requisite  supply.  As  most  of  the  hosiery  required  in  Germany 
is  supplied  by  Chemnitz  manufacturers  and  jobbers,  inquiries  have  come  to  this  <ity 
in  an  increasing  number  as  to  whether  American  makes  could  be  se<*ured. 

Thus  far  the  demand  has  been  exclusively  for  seamless  silk  hosiery  or  silk-pluted 
hosiery  of  American  make.  One  leading  firm  in  <  liemnitz  engaged  in  the  manuf act  ure 
of  full-fashioned  hosiery  has  for  two  years  imported  considerable  amoimts  of  Ameri(?an 
seamless  silk  hosiery  and  disposed  of  the  wares  at  remunerative  pric  t«.  At  the  begin- 
ning of  1913,  when  seeking  to  place  a  large  order  with  the  American  mill  which  had 
hitherto  furnished  the  supply,  information  was  received  that  its  entire  outi)ut  for  3913 
was  already  sold  in  advance.  This  firm  haa  hitherto  dealt  chiefly  in  seamless  socks 
which  sell  regularly  in  American  stores  for  25  and  50  cents  per  pair.  The  cheaper 
grade  is  made  of  artificial  silk  and  retails  in  Germanjr  at  1.50  marks  (35.7  cents)  per 
pair.  The  more  expensive  quality  is  of  pure  silk  and  is  sold  here  at  retail  for  2  marks 
(47.6  cents)  per  pair. 

Another  manufacturer  in  Chemnitz,  who  makes  seamless  hosiery  exclusively  and 
is  in  close  business  relations  with  an  extensive  circle  of  German  department  stores 
and  retailers,  informs  the  ('hemnitz  consulate  that  the  demand  for  American  seamless 
hosiery  is  so  marked  among  his  customers  that  he  is  exceedingly  desirous  of  securing 
the  output  of  one  or  more  American  mills.  The  machines  in  his  mills  and  in  the 
establishments  of  other  similar  Chemnitz  hosiery  firms  are  eq^uipped  for  the  knitting 
of  coarser  grades  of  yarn.  In  American  mills  the  me^^hamcal  ecjuipmc^nt  for  the 
production  of  hosiery  knit  from  the  finer  numbers  lias  been  vastly  augmented  of  recent 
years.  As  the  German  demand  for  these  finer  grades  of  work  has  suddenly  developed 
and  assumed  relatively  large  dimensions,  the  domestic  manufax  turers  are  totally 
ima,ble  to  manufacture  the  class  of  wares  now  wanted.  There  is,  of  course,  a  certain 
hesitation  to  make  large  increases  in  plant  for  what  may  prove  to  be  a  merely  temporary 
fashion. 

Attempts  have  been  made  to  introduce  American  seamless  cotton  lioeiery,  but  thus 
far  without  success.    The  German  makers  seem  able  to  meet  the  competition  easily. 

The  bulk  of  the  imports  of  American  seamless  silk  hosiery  goes  to  jobbing  houses 
in  Berlin  or  Hamburg  and  is  distributed  from  those  points  to  the  retail  trade.  Imjjor- 
tations  through  Chemnitz  firms  are,  thus  far,  of  much  less  importance.  The  Chtim- 
nitz  manufacturers  are,  however,  realizing  the  dcwirability  of  carr>  ijig  the  American 
wares  in  stock  in  order  to  meet  the  demands  of  customers  and  utilize  existing  relations 
with  them. 

At  present  much  of  the  volume  of  the  imports  of  American  seamless  silk  hosiery 
into  Germany  is  due  to  the  quick  recognition  by  German  dealers  and  manufacturers 
that  there  is  an  excellent  opportunity  for  making  good  profits  in  handling  the  article, 
and  the  remainder  is  the  result  of  a  very  well-organized  campaign  by  a  single  American 
firm. 

The  cost  of  raw  materials  is  the  same  in  both  countries,  and  tlie  factor  of  wages 
enters  relatively  less  into  the  cost  of  seamless  hose,  so  that  differences  in  wage  rates 
do  not  count  for  as  much  as  in  the  case  of  full-fashioned  wares. 

LARGE   SALES   OF  AMERICAN  HOSIERY. 
iConsul  George  Nicolas  Iflt,  Nuremberg,  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19, 1913.] 

Dealers  in  Nuremberg  say  that  the  American  makers  of  silk  hosiery,  gloves,  under- 
wear, etc.,  have  obtained  a  large  share  of  the  German  trade.  It  is  said  that  the  maim- 
facturers  of  Chemnitz  now  have  experts  in  the  United  States  studying  American 
methods  of  manufacture  and  buying  new  machines. 

The  quality  and  low  price  of  the  American  silk  liosiery  now  being  offered  in  Germany 
have  caused  a  considerable  increase  in  the  demand  for  this  class  of  goods  as  compared 
with  cotton  and  lisle.    I-adies'  eilk  stockings  sell  in  Germany  for  $0.60  to  $5  a  pair, 


the  greatest  demand  being  for  a  staple  article  selling  l»etween  $0.90  and  $1.60.  Silk 
socks  for  men  can  be  bought  for  $0.60  \o  $2.40  per  pair,  a  favorite  staple  selling  for  $0.72 
to  $0.80  a  pair. 

At  Frankfort  on  the  Main  the  demand  for  silk  hosiery  is  not  large.  One  dealer 
catering  to  the  high-priced  trade  states  that  with  few  exceptions  silk  hosiery  is  worn 
only  in  the  evening.  French  silk  socks  are  there  regarded  as  the  best.  The  more 
expensive  grades  of  English  and  French  socks,  selling  for  $2  and  up,  are  generally 
made  with  embroidered  clocks.  One  leading  dealer  in  Frankfort  carries  American 
silk  socks  with  lisle  toes,  heels,  and  tops,  wliich  sell  at  $1.10  per  pair,  while  an  American 
shoe  firm  has  met  with  fair  demand  for  a  line  of  silk  8<x'ks  with  lisle  parts  selliug  for 
$0.60,  which  it  introduced.  This  store  also  sells  American  silk  stockings  with  lisle 
parts  for  $0.60  to  $1.65  a  pair. 

French  and  English  hosiery  is  imported  direct,  while  the  American  lines  sold  are 
obtained  through  importers.  Local  haberdashers  generally  have  commission  houses 
in  London  and  Paris  through  which  they  purchase  ties,  hats,  shirtings,  underw-ear, 
novelties,  etc.  In  Breslau  the  use  of  silk  hosiery  is  increasing,  but  the  demand  is 
curtailed  by  the  cold,  wet  weather. 

INDIA. 

AMERICAN    SILK   HOSIERY   RECOGNIZED   AS   BEST. 
[Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19, 1913.] 

The  sale  of  silk  hosiery  in  India  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  European  residents  and 
the  high-caste  natives,  and  shows  only  a  slight  tendency  to  increase,  but  the  present 
market,  according  to  reports  from  consuls  in  Bombay  and  Madras,  is  believed  to  be 
sufficient  to  warrant  the  introduction  of  American-made  hose  of  standard  quality. 
American  hose  are  already  on  sale  in  the  former  city,  and  are  recognized  as  ha^dng 
the  best  shape.  In  that  city  importations  are  made  airect  by  retailers  from  exporters 
in  Europe  and  the  United  States.  Japanese  hosiery  is  sold  cheaper  than  American, 
English,  or  German,  and  some  importers  state  that  it  is  more  durable  than  the  other- 
makes  in  the  Indian  climate,  while  others  disagree.  It  has  not  the  shape  of  the 
European  and  American  product,  however. 

Men's  silk  hose  of  Japanese  make  sell  in  the  retail  shops  for  $1.59  per  pair,  while 
English  and  American  sell  for  $2.10  and  German  socks  with  cotton  tops  for  $0.97  to 
$1.62.  So  far  as  could  be  ascertained,  no  silk  socks  with  cotton  foot  and  top,  such  as 
are  sold  in  the  United  States  for  about  $0 .50  a  pair,  are  on  the  Bombay  market.  Ladies' 
silk  hose  sell  for  $1.95  to  $3.08  per  pair.  Japanese  silk  hose  may  be  purchased  in  some 
places  in  the  bazaar  as  low  as  $1.62  per  pair.  In  Madras,  ladies'  stockings  of  spun 
silk,  English  make,  sell  for  $0.81  to  $1.22  per  pair,  and  those  of  pure  silk  for  $1.38  to 
$1.78.  The  wholesale  prices  for  these  spun-silk  stockings  range  from  $7.05  per  dozen 
upward,  and  for  pure  silk  from  $8.51  per  dozen  upward."  German  or  English  silk  half 
hose  sell  for  $4.40  to  $8.51  per  dozen  at  wholesale  and  from  $0.65  per  pair  upward  at 
retail.  Bla<ik,  white,  navy,  and  tan  are  the  favorite  colors  for  ladies'  hose,  and  black, 
navy,  and  tan  for  men's. 

ITALY. 

INCREASING  DEMAND  FOR  FINE   HOSIERY, 
[Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19, 1913.] 

Rapid  industrial  progress,  increasing  population,  and  the  annually  increasing  num- 
ber of  visitors  all  appear  to  be  enhancing  the  prosperity  of  Naples,  and  thus  increasing 
the  demand  for  fine  hosiery,  which  has  for  many  years  been  large.  On  accoimt  of 
the  mild  climate  of  that  part  of  Italy,  low  shoes  are  worn  throughout  the  year,  which 
also  increases  the  demand  for  these  goods.  Men's  silk  socks  sell  for  $1  to  $2  per  pair 
and  women's  silk  hose  for  $1  to  $3,  with  the  demand  for  the  latter  strongest  in  the 
grades  selling  for  $1.20  to  $2.  It  is  believed  that  there  would  be  a  good  sale  for 
women's  stocking  having  the  toe,  heel,  and  top  made  of  good  quality  lisle  thread  and 
the  middle  section  of  good  silk  if  they  could  be  sold  for  not  more  than  $0.80  a  pair. 
Black,  white,  and  gray  are  the  favorite  colors. 

In  Genoa  men's  silk  socks  sell  for  $0.87  to  $3.86  per  pair,  but  good  American-made 
Bilk  hose  can  be  obtained  for  $0.58  to  $1.11.  Silk  8to<?kings  for  ladies  sell  for  $0.95 
to  $2.70  a  pair,  those  of  American  make  bringing  $1.01  to  $1.45.  The  local  demand 
is  not  large,  but  has  shown  considerable  growth  of  late  and  promises  well.  A  large 
part  of  the  silk  hosiery  sold  is  imported. 


l\ 


250 


THE  HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


The  silk  liose  on  sale  in  Florence  are  generallv  from  the  Lombard \-  distrust  of  Italy 
although  there  is  a  limited  importation  from  I'rance  and  Germany.     On«j  shoe  nlore 
has  put  in  a  line  of  American  silk  hose  in  colors  to  match  the  various  shades  of  fancy 
shoes.  ^ 

PERU. 

NO  DOMESTIC   HOSIERY   FACTORIES. 
[Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reptats,  Apr.  19, 1913.] 

There  is  only  a  small  sale  of  silk  hosiery  in  Teru,  probably  on  account  of  the  liigh 
prices  a^ked .  Silk  hose  sell  for  $20.44  per  dozen  j)airs  and  up.  A  good  market  might 
be  built  up  for  a  cheaper  variety,  such  as  is  sold  for  |0.50  to  $1  in  the  United  States; 
but  there  is  a  customs  duty  of  $9.73  per  kilo  (2.2  pounds)  on  silk  hosiery.  In  the  coast 
zone,  where  most  of  the  population  observing  European  customs  dwells,  the  tempera- 
ture varies  but  Little  throughout  the  year  and  changes  in  the  weight  of  wearing  ap- 
parel are  unnecessary.  There  are  no  hosiery  factories  in  Peru,  and  imports  are 
iisuaUy  made  by  wholesale  dealers,  although  tlie  retailers  also  import  direct  to  a 
large  extent.  Importers  of  hosiery  are  customarily  given  from  four  to  six  months' 
credit  from  date  of  invoice,  wliile  in  some  instiuices  shipments  are  made  against 
drafts  at  six  months  sight. 

SOUTH  AFEICA. 

SILK   HOSIERY  TRADE. 

[Consul  General  George  H.  Murphy,  Cape  To^^ti,  Commerce  Reports,  Apr.  28, 1«)15.] 

Although  the  white  population  of  South  Africa  numbers  onl>   about  1  300  <K)0 
the  per  capita  purchasmg  power  is  considerably  h  igher  than  in  most  countries.'    There 
is  a  limited,  but  growing,  demand  for  silk  hosiery  at  moderate  pricoH. 

The  imports  of  silk  hosiery  (imderwear)  via  tlie  port  of  Cape  Town,  as  shown  by 
official  returns  for  1912,  were  valued  at  $9,528;  lor  1913,  at  $16,166.  Trade  statistics 
do  not  indicate  the  countries  of  origin  for  the  separate  ports.  The  returns  for  the 
whole  of  the  Union  of  South  Africa,  however,  show  the  countries  of  origin  in  these 
two  years  to  have  been: 


Imported  from— 


United  States 

France 

Germany 

Japan 

Switzerland.. 


1912 


$910 

788 

3,874 

2,643 

1,363 


1913 


$2,175 

1,007 

3,991 

4,696 

749 


Imported  from- 


United  Kingdom.. 
All  otlier  countries 

Total 


1912 


$9,177 
311 


19,066 


1913 


$10,332 

750 


23, 700 


In  1914  silk  hosiery  imports  into  the  Union  of  South  Africa  were  \  alued  at  $36,878, 
but  the  shares  of  the  various  countries  participating  in  this  trade  are  not  given  in 
available  returns. 

The  usual  method  of  doing  business  is  for  the  importer  to  have  a  bran«-h  office  or 
buying  agency  in  London  or  New  York,  through  av  hich  all  orders  are  executed  These 
over-sea  representatives  advance  the  cash  to  the  manufacturer  agaiunt  shipiiino-  docu- 
ments, making  drafts  upon  the  importer,  with  said  documents  attached  "^  These 
drafts  are  drawn  payable  at  sight,  30,  60,  90,  or  120  days,  as  may  ha\  e  been  previously 
arranged.  A  large  proportion  of  the  drafts  are  drawn  at  90  days'  sight.  Should  the 
importer  desire  to  do  business  direct  with  the  manufacturer,  he  -will  expect  to  give 
satisfactory  bank  references.  In  addition,  R.  G.  Dun  &  Co.  hav(»  ])ranch  offices  in 
the  principal  trade  centers  of  South  Africa  and  are  in  position  to  supply  the  usual 
mercantile  reports  upon  request  lodged  with  any  of  their  offices  in  the  United  Stales. 

The  two  methods  of  distribution  in  general  use  in  this  country  are,  first,  the  appoint- 
ment of  some  prominent  importing  firm  as  sole  agents,  the  word  "ag(«nt "  in  this  case 
really  meaning  "importer" ;  and,  second,  the  apiiointment  of  a  manufacturer's  agent 
who  will  have  the  exclusive  right  to  solicit  busiut^ss  and  who  will  receive  a  commis- 
sion on  all  orders  coming  from  his  territory,  whether  direct  or  indirect.  The  word 
''agent "  as  used  in  the  second  sense  means  only  that  he  is  the  authorized  distributor 
of  the  manufacturer,  hence  his  ability  to  induce  sales  rather  than  his  financial  strength 
18  the  measure  of  his  value  to  his  principal.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  he 
never  imports  on  his  own  account,  and  that  all  or<lers  secured  by  him  are  filled  either 
tiirough  the  over-sea  buyers  of  the  importer  or  after  defmite  arrangements  for  terms 
have  been  made  between  the  manufacturer  and  the  importer. 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


251 


It  is  the  opinion  of  experienced  men  that  a  specialty  such  as  silk  hosiery  can  best 
be  handled  through  manufacturers'  agents,  as  otherwise  the  siUes  would  be  limited 
to  the  one  importer  who  mkht  secure  the  agency.  This  is  api)lical)le  to  all  articles 
of  luxury,  since  the  wholesale  houses  are  engaged  principally  in  supplying  the  country 
stores  and  would  not  for  some  years  to  come  risk  stocking  silk  hosiery. 


SWEDEN. 


V 


RALE   OP   AMERICAN    8ILK    HOSIERY   INCREASING, 
[Consul  Douglas  Jenkins,  Goteborg,  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19, 1913. 

The  use  of  silk  stockings  and  socks  is  apparently  increasing  in  Sweden,  but  that 
the  dealers  there  do  not  seem  to  know  anything  of  American  silk  goods  and  generally 
express  surprise  when  told  of  the  extent  of  the  silk-manufacturing  industry  in  the 
United  States.  The  Swedish  demand  is  supplied  entirely  from  abroad,  chiefly  from 
England,  Germany,  and  France,  as  there  is  no  domestic  manufacture  of  these  goods. 
Retail  dealers  say  that  they  generally  buy  their  stocks  of  silk  hosiery  from  traveling 
salesmen  or  agents,  although  there  are  several  wholesale  importers  in  Gotel)org  who 
handle  hosiery  of  other  varieties. 

In  the  cheaper  grade  of  silk  hose  women's  stockings  sell  for  $1.07  to  $1.45  per  pair 
and  men's  socks  for  $0.54  to  $0.81  per  pair.  Better  grades  of  women's  stockings  bring 
$1.85  to  $3.22  a  pair,  and  of  men's  socks  about  $1.70.  The  demand  for  men's  silk 
socks  is  not  so  great  as  that  for  women's  hose. 

TASMANIA. 

CONDITIONS  PROPITIOUS  FOR  AMERICAN  TRADE. 
[Consul  W.  A.  Bickers,  Hobart,  Commerce  Reports,  May  4, 1915.J 

Tasmania  is  dependent  upon  foreign  countries  for  a  large  proportion  of  its  hosiery 
Appreciable  quantities  of  all  kinds  of  hosiery,  usually  manufactured  in  the  United 
States,  are  imported,  but  in  the  past  American  exporters  have  taken  little  interest  in 
this  trade— as  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  out  of  a  total  importation  into  all  Australia 
in  1913  of  cotton  hosiery  of  the  value  of  $1,150,000  the  United  States  supplied  only 
$4,500  worth.  Tasmania  imported  $16,000  worth  (from  all  countries)  direct,  while  it 
is  estimated  that  the  jobbers  of  Melbourne  and  Sydney  sold  an  additional  $35,000 
worth  to  local  hosiery  dealers.  Germany  supplied  over  80  per  cent  of  the  cotton 
hosiery  imported  into  all  Australia. 

While  conditions  are  propitious  now  for  the  introduction  of  American  cotton  hosiery 
American  manufacturers  will  not  find  the  field  so  favorable  in  silk  and  wollen  hosiery' 
as  here  the  United  Kingdom  has  a  preferential  tariff  of  25  per  cent  against  a  general 
tariff  of  30  per  cent  ad  valorem.  That  this  difference  of  5  per  cent  has  proved  suffi- 
cient heretofore  to  give  the  United  Kingdom  a  practical  monopoly  of  this  market  is 
shown  by  the  fact  that  that  country  supplied  about  90  per  cent  of  a  total  importation 
into  Australia  of  such  hosiery  of  the  value  of  $2,775,000  in  1913,  while  the  United 
States  furnished  less  than  $60,000  worth.  The  direct  importation  of  silk  and  woolen 
hosiery  into  Tasmania  amounted  to  $68,000,  and  large  quantities  were  obtained  from 
the  commercial  centers  of  Australia. 

There  has  been  no  indication  so  far  that  importers  can  not  obtain  their  usual  supply 
of  silk  and  woolen  hosiery  from  the  United  Kingdom.  Until  such  is  the  case,  American 
manufacturers  are  at  a  decided  disadvantage  in  this  market,  and  it  would  seem  to  be 
the  best  policy  for  them  to  make  special  efforts  to  extend  their  trade  in  cotton  hosiery 
Manufacturing  conditions  in  the  United  Kingdom  should  indicate  to  them  the  most 
propitious  time  to  endeavor  to  enlarge  their  sales  of  silk  and  woolen  goods. 

TFBKEY. 

PROBABLE    OPENING   FOR  CHEAP   SILK   HOSIERY. 

[Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr  19, 1913.1 

The  silk  hosiery  sold  in  Beirut,  Syria,  is  practically  all  of  French  manufacture,  and 
IS  of  rather  inferior  quality,  although  the  prices  charged  by  the  retailers  range  between 
$1.54  and  $3.86  per  pair.  The  greatest  demand  is  for  cotton  hosiery,  which  is  supplied 
by  Germany ,  Austna,  Japan,  and  Spain  in  the  order  named .  The  Syrian  is  generally 
well  shod,  and  in  dry  weather  prefers  slippers  or  oxfords  to  high  shoes  with  his  native 


K 


252 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


FOREIGN    TRADE. 


253 


costume.  The  socks  most  generally  worn  are  of  l)rilliaiit  colors  and  fancy  pattenis. 
Silk  is  greatly  appreciated  and  is  frequently  worn  with  native  dress,  but  is  usually 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  average  smartly  dressed  native.  If  good  Amcirican  silk  hone 
could  be  sold  at  retail  for  nc>t  more  than  $0.50  or  $0.75  per  pair,  they  would  probably 
meet  with  a  ready  sale,  l30th  in  men's  and  women's  styles.  There  is  also  some  demaiid 
for  the  better  qualities,  such  as  retail  at  $1  and  $1.50  a  pair.  In  the  bf^ginning  it  wou  Id 
be  well  to  secure  an  energetic  agent  to  introduce  8u<  h  goods  to  the  merchants  through- 
out Syria  and  to  ship  small  quantities  by  parcel  post  to  minimize  shipping  costs. 

UNITED  E3NGDOM. 

FAVORABLE    OPPORTUNITY  FOR   SALE    OF  AMERICAN   GOODS. 
[Commercial  Attach^  A.  H.  Baldwin,  London,  Feb.  8, 19ir.,  Commerce  Reports,  Mar.  15, 1915.1 

Retail  prices  on  the  stockings  sold  in  English  shops  are  not  held,  i\B  in  America,  at 
15,  25, 35,  or  50  cents,  butinclude  practically  all  intervening  figures,  all  hough  the  usual 
interval  in  the  larger  shops  is  6  cents  (3  pence).  Some  of  the  smaller  hIiods,  in  pricing 
on  special  sales,  make  use  even  of  the  farthing  (hulf  cent),  as  well  as  the  halfpenny 
(1  cent). 

There  is  no  j^rejudice  against  American  products  on  the  part  of  th(;  English  buying 
public,  and,  in  the  opinion  of  one  of  the  leading  merchants  of  London,  there  will  l»e 
an  exceptionally  favorable  opportunity  at  the  close  of  the  war  for  the  introduction  of 
many  classes  of  manufactured  articles  from  the  United  States.  There  are  numeroiis 
products  in  which  competition  is  practicable  and  where  American  styles  and  qualities 
are  much  favored  by  European  buyers. 

Attention  is  invited  to  the  fact  that  a  more  ready  disposition  on  the  part  of  American 
manufacturers  to  comply  with  the  special  requirements  of  this  mark(;t  is  necessary. 
It  is  very  difficult  to  disturb  the  accustomed  habits  of  the  people  here,  and  it  is  far 
simpler  to  make  the  necessary  modifications  in  production  than  to  attempt  to  force 
unusual  styles.  For  exam})le,  in  men's  underwear  the  preference  is  for  two-pie<'e 
suits,  and  while  buyers  might  admit  that  the  union  suit  has  many  advantages,  tlie 
national  habit  persists  in  clinging  to  the  former  styles. 

Further,  it  should  be  noted  that  there  are  many  factors  that  would  not  perhaps 
occur  to  American  manufacturers — such  as  the  character  of  the  climate  in  Great 
Britain,  which  forces  people  to  dress  more  warmlj^  than  in  the  States.  American 
homes  are  maintained  nabitually  at  temperatures  higher  than  is  usual  here,  and  tlie 
result  is  that  in  the  United  States  one  can  with  comfort  wear  lighter  underwear  than 
in  England,  where  the  difference  in  temperature  between  outdoors  and  within  is 
materially  less. 

English  tailors  in  making  men's  clothing  cut  trousers  very  mu(  h  higher  in  the 
waist,  and  especially  in  the  back.  The  result  is  that  underwear  is  alno  cut  to  conform 
to  this  style.    Makers  of  drawers  in  America  should  take  this  fact  into  consideration. 

In  the  matter  of  hosiery,  the  suggestion  is  made  that  American  manufacturers  are 
loath  to  comply  with  requirements  that  are  essential  for  this  market.  Women's 
stockings,  as  knit  here,  increase  in  length  with  the  size  of  the  hose,  and  buyers  insist 
on  the  longer  length  of  the  leg  of  the  stocking  as  the  length  of  the  foot  increases.  It  is 
understood  that  American  makers  standardize  their  product  to  a  much  greater  extent 
than  is  the  custom  in  Great  Britain,  and  are  slow  to  acquiesce  in  making  such  modifi- 
cations in  their  machines  as  are  required  with  rt^pect  to  these  minor  details.  The 
insistence  on  a  purchase  of  a  minimum  quantity  for  example,  30  dozens  of  single 
style — is  another  obstacle.  German  manufacturers  have  heretofore  l»een  quite  pre- 
pared to  supply  different  styles  on  orders  for  as  few  as  3  dozens  of  a  given  kind.  In 
any  large  shop,  which  may  carry  300  to  4(X)  styles,  it  is  obviously  out  of  the  question 
to  consider  the  purchase  of  30  dozens  of  each. 

The  sizes  of  men's  socks  usually  sold  are  10,  lOi,  and  11,  and  only  in  the  largest 
stores  will  be  found  sizes  of  9^  or  11^.  It  should  further  be  remembered  that  London 
is  ordinarily  a  great  tourist  center,  not  only  for  tra\  elers  from  America,  but  also  from 
Germany,  Austria,  France,  Italy,  and  other  countries,  and  there  is  a  considerable 
Bale  for  men's  hose  of  silk  and  cotton  among  this  clientage.  This  trade  is  for  tlie 
moment  interrupted,  but  it  undoubtedly  will  be  resumed  at  the  close  of  the  war. 
For  the  strictly  English  trade,  woolen  cashmere  practically  crowds  out  all  other  styles 
of  hosiery;  and  it  was  stated  to  the  writer  that  in  a  shop  emplojdng  over  ]  ,000  men 
it  would  probably  be  difficult  to  find  a  single  employee  who  wore  ot  her  than  woolen 
hose. 

American  cotton-fleeced  underwear  is  l>elieved  to  be  the  best  article  for  the  price 
that  is  on  the  market  here,  and  undoubtedly  a  great  sale  could  be  developed. 


It  should  be  emphasized  again  that  it  is  difficult,  if  not  quite  impracticable,  to 
modily  very  much  the  current  taste  in  such  purchases  here;  and  greater  trade  will 
be  secured  by  following  the  Unes  of  least  resistance  and  providing  the  styles  and 
quahties  to  which  the  market  is  committed  by  long  custom  and  tradition.  A  number 
ot  samples  are  sent,  indicating  in  part  the  range  of  principal  quahties  and  styles  of 
Hosiery  and  underwear  in  favor  with  the  great  middle  class  in  England  fThese 
samples  may  be  inspected  at  the  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic  C^ommerce  or  its 
branch  offices.]  tor  men's  socks,  the  popular  prices  are  18  pence  and  2  flhillinpH 
(3b  and  48  cents),  and  a  tremendous  trade  is  done  in  styles  at  these  prices. 

STEADILY  INCREASING    SALE   OP  AMERICAN   SILK  HOSIERY. 
[Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Apr.  19,  1913.] 

Reports  from  all  parts  of  England  and  Scotland  indicate  that  the  demand  for  silk 
hosiery,  and  especially  for  hose  with  lisle  or  cotton  top  and  sole  and  silk  boot 
is  increasing  steadily.  In  Leeds  the  demand  exceeded  the  supply  during  1912' 
American  manufacturers  are  said  to  have  first  introduced  the  silk  stocking  with  cotton 
parts,  but  m  some  sections  the  Germans  have  almost  obtained  control  of  the  market 
on  account  of  their  ability  to  fill  orders  promptly  and  to  meet  the  continuous  demand 
without  delay,  which  the  American  manufacturers  would  not  guarantee.  Some 
brands  of  American  silk  and  part-silk  hose,  especial! v  in  the  medium-price  grades 
have  a  wide  distribution,  however.  Standard  grades  of  men's  silk  hose  from  the 
United  States  sell  for  61  cents  a  pair.  The  importing  is  generally  done  by  distribut- 
ing firms  or  agents  in  the  large  cities,  although  some  dealers  buy  direct 

The  following  list  of  prices  in  one  of  the  leading  department  stores  of  London, 
obtained  by  Consul  General  Griffiths,  will  give  an  idea  of  the  prices  prevailing-  Men's 
socks— black  silk,  embroidered  clocks,  $2.37  to  $2.67;  black  spun  silk,  $0.95  to  $1  33- 
black  and  colors,  self-clocks,  $1.20;  black  silk,  shot  with  colors,  $1.76  to  $1  88  Men's 
stockings--black  silk  $3.46  to  $3.86;  black  spun  silk,  $2.19  to  $2.49.    Women's  stock- 

i^^Z;^  tS  m'P''?f  ^^'  ^^- •?,  *^IL^^5  tan  spun  silk,  $0.71t  o  $0.89;  black  pure  silk, 
$1  84  to  $3.91;  white  pure  silk,  $2.06  to  $2.31;  tan  pure  silk,  $1.84  to  $1  94 

In  Scotland  the  cold  climate  has  been  regarded  as  an  obstacle  to  the  sale  of  silk 
hosiery  for  street  wear  but  this  trade  shows  a  tendency  to  increase  considerably 
The  sale  of  this  class  of  hosiery  in  Belfast,  though  small,  is  also  on  the  increase  In 
men  s  hose  the  demand  is  practically  confined  to  black  socks  for  evenincr  wear  as 
heavy  weights  are  ordinarily  worn  for  day  dress  on  account  of  the  excessive  moisture 
and  coolness  of  the  climate. 

VENEZUELA. 

IMPORTS    FROM    DIFFERENT   COUNTIUES. 

[Consul  Ralph  J.  Totten,  Maracaibo,  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Rei>ort.s,  Sept.  2, 1911.] 

Cotton  knit  goods,  consisting  mostly  of  undershirts  and  hosiery,  make  a  verv  im- 
portant Item  in  the  imports  into  the  Maracaibo  district.  The  imports  of  the  two  arti- 
cles for  the  calendar  year  1910  were  as  follows: 


Articles. 

Germany. 

England. 

Spain. 

United 
States. 

TotAl. 

Ifosierv 

12,479 
14,916 

11,883 
20,258 

$4, 3(\2 

Undershirts 

$5,349 

$447* 

40,970 

Total 

17,395 

5,349 

22,141 

447 

45,332 

In  women's  stockings  the  demand  is  for  solid  white,  pink,  and  light  blue  in  the 
cheap  grades  and  for  blacks  and  fancies  in  the  better  grades.  For  children  blacks 
whites,  and  pmks  are  the  most  popular.  Stockings  cost  abroad  from  $0.75  to  $6  per 
dozen  and  retail  here  at  25  cents  to  $1  per  pair.  Men's  half  hose  cost  $1  50  to  $6  per 
dozen  abroad  and  retail  here  at  35  cents  to  $1  per  pair.  White  or  unbleached  bd- 
bnggans  are  most  used,  although  there  is  some  sale  for  fancies  and  drop-stitch  half 
hose  in  the  better  grades. 

Only  one  style  of  undershirt  is  used  in  this  section,  although  they  are  imported  in 
several  grades.  The  popular  garment  is  of  medium  or  light  weight  knit  cotton  with 
full-length  sleeves  and  no  opening  front  or  back.    They  slip  on  over  the  head  like  a 


254  THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 

long-sleeved,  low-necked  gymnasium  shirt.    The  favorite  colors  are  light  blue  pink 
fancy  stripes,  and  solid  black.    The  cheaper  grach^s  have  sewed  seams  and  hemmed 
cutfs.    The  naedium  grades  have  knitted  cuffs  sewed  on.    The  best  grades  are  full 
fashioned  with  knitted  se^ms  and  knitted  cuffs.    The  cheap  grade  co^ts  abroad  abcut 
$1.50  per  dozen.    With  freight  and  duties  added  they  cost  the  jobber  about  $2  12 
laid  down  in  Maracaibo.    They  are  jobbed  at  $2.50  per  dozen  and  retailed  at  25  cents 
each.     The  best  average  grade  costs  about  $5  per  dozen  or  $6.50  laid  down  here 
^V^  ^  u  ®  ^^  jobbed  at  $7.72  per  dozen  and  retails  lor  80  cents  each 
Merchandise  of  this  nature  should  never  be  parked  in  cartons  or  any  sort  of  boxes 
Undershirts  are  generally  wrapped  in  thin  paper,  one  dozen  to  the  package.    The  sizes 
are  from  30  to  38  inches  chest  measure.    About  50  dozen  shirts  are  wmpped  in  paper 
and  then  baled  in  cloth  for  shipping.     This  method  of  packing  saves  the  buyer  a 
considerable  sum  m  duties,  as  all  Venezuelan  customs  chaises  are  Jigured  on  Vn.ss 
weight,  including  containers  and  packing  material.    The  customs  duties  on  cotton 
knit  goods  eutenng  Venezuelan  customhouses  are  2.50  bolivars  per  kilo  (48  cents  per 
2.2  pounds)  plus  56.5  per  cent  surtax  on  the  amount  of  the  duty. 

IMPOBTS    INTO    OUTLYING    TERRITORIES    AND    FOREIGN    AMERICAN 

COUNTRIES. 

The  value  of  the  imports  of  hosiery  into  foreign  coimtries  of  the 
Western  Hemisphere,  and  into  Porto  Rico,  Hawaii,  and  the  PhiUt)- 
pme  Islands  are  shown  below.  The  statistics  are  as  complete  as 
can  be  ob tamed  from  the  official  reports  of  the  various  countries 
The  classification  in  each  case  is  that  of  the  country  for  which  tlie 
data  are  given.  In  the  case  of  many  countries,  the  imports  of  hosiery 
are  not  separately  imported,  but  are  included  under  the.  heading  of 
Clothing"  or  ^'Wearing  apparel,"  and  in  such  cases  the  data  are 
not  here  shown. 

Statistics  of  the  imports  of  the  various  kinds  of  wearing  apparel 
so  far  as  thev  are  specified  in  the  official  reports  of  tlie  countries 
mentioned  below  and  of  other  countries  in  the  Western  Hemisphere 
appear  in  a  report  on  the  Cost  of  Production  of  Women's  Mushn 
Underwear,  previously  issued  by  the  Bureau  of  Foreign  and  Domestic 
Commerce. 

Argentina  (year  ended  Dec.  31,  1913): 
Hosiery — 

Wo^" $1,903,055 

Silk -    ••  9'i'^^5 

Other  fibers.. '.'... *.'.'.'.'.".".".".■.' .".'.■.'.";.■ 52]' fin 

Brazil  (year  endedDec.31,  1912):  Hosiery,  cotton ""  4ifi' iJi 

Canada  (year  ended  Mar.  31,  1914):                                     "  ^^o>  J-'Jo 

Socks  and  stockings — 

S?**?^ --     1,084,801 

f^^^^ -.     1,828,688 

Chile  (year  ended  DecVsi;  1913)*: 301,836 

Hosiery,  drawers,  undershirts,  etc.,  knitted,  cH)tton 825  684 

Hosiery —                                                                                                      '  ' 

Wool 72  6^3 

^V   -  18,805 

1  lax O    QQ/;» 

Costa  Rica  (year  ended  Dec.  31,  1912):  Stockings. fil'  416 

Ecuador  (year  ended  Dec.  31,  1911) :  "±,-±10 

Hosiery — 

S?^^^ 103,097 

Wool 1  Q27 

^V^ 215 

•  Linen 2  249 

Hawaii  (year  ended  June  30,  1913):  Hosierj^,  cotton,  from  foreign  coun-  ' 

^^^^^ 1,383 


FOREIGN   TRADE. 


255 


Mexico  (year  ended  June  30,  1912): 
Hosiery — 

Cotton $310,  544 

Linen 588 

Artificial  silk 267 

Hosiery  and  knitted  goods,  not  specially  mentione<l 140, 098 

Peru  (year  ended  Dec.  31,  1913):  Hosiery,  cotton 139,  698 

Philippine  Islands  (year  ended  June  30,  1912): 
Hosiery,  cotton — 

From  the  Unite<l  States 37, 410 

From  other  countries 81, 607 

Porto  Rico  (year  ended  June  30,  1914):  Hosiery,  etc.,  cotton,  from  foreign 

countries 9, 100 

Trinidad  and  Tobago  (year  ensed  Dec.  31,  1912) :  Hosiery 24, 639 

Urugua^r  (year  ended  Dec.  31,  1911): 
Hosiery — 

Cotton 373, 116 

Wool 2 1, 621 

Silk 2,351 

Linen 3,189 

Venezuela  (year  ended  Dec.  31,  1913): 
Undershirts  and  hosiery — 

Cotton 232, 497 

Wool 1, 365 


h 


1 


CHAPTER  VITI. 
BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

American  directory  of  the  knitting  trade.     Boston :  Lord  &  Nagle  Co. ,  annual. 

Ba^nall,  William  R.  The  textile  industries  of  the  United  States,  including  sketches 
and  notices  of  cotton,  woolen,  silk,  and  linen  manufactures  in  the  colonial  period. 
Cambridfre:  Riverside  Press,  1893. 

Battison,  William  J.  Wool  manufactures,  also  ht»Hiery  and  knit  goods,  shoddy,  and 
fur  hats.  (U.  S.  Twelfth  census.  Bulletin  no.  236.)  Washington:  Government 
Printing  Office,  1902.     125  pp.     ' 

Copeland,  Melvin  Thomas.  The  cotton  manufacturing  industry  of  the  United  States. 
Cambridge:  Harvard  University,  1912.     pp.  23  26,  101-112,  149,  253-261,  346-353. 

Cyclopedia  of  textile  work:  A  general  reference  library  on  cotton,  wot)len,  and  worsted 
yarn  manufacture,  weaving,  designing,  chemistrjr  and  dyeing,  finishing,  knitting, 
and  allied  subjects.  Prepared  by  a  corps  of  textile  experts  and  leading  manufac- 
turers; illustrated  with  over  2,000  engravings.  Chicago:  American  sch(M)l  of  cor- 
respondence, 1907.  7  v.  fronts  (v.  6:  port.)  ill  us.,  plates,  diagrams,  24^  cm.  vol.  5, 
knitting,  knit  goods,  finishing. 

Davison's  hosiery  and  knit  goods  trade  directory.  New  York:  Davison  Publisliing 
Co.,  annual.    Office  edition;  pocket  edition, 

Davison's  textile  blue  book.  New  York:  Davison  Publishing  Co.,  annual.  Office 
edition;  pocket  edition. 

Drabill,  Albert.  Knitting  industry  in  the  United  States:  Transactions  of  the  national 
association  of  cotton  manufacturers.    Vol.  71,  p.  251. 

Dockham's  American  textile  report  and  directory,  United  States  and  Canada.  Ho- 
siery, knitgoods,  textile  industry  complete,  dyerw,  finishers,  etc.  Boston:  Dockham 
Publishing  Co.,  annual. 

Dubois,  Ernest.  L'industrie  de  la  bonneterie.  (The  hosiery  in<lustry.)  Les  in- 
^  dustries  ^  domicile  en  Belgique.     Vol.  7.     Brussels,  Belgium:  Ofhce  du  travail. 

Felkin,  William.  A  history  of  the  machine-wrought  hosiery  and  hue  manufacture. 
London:  Longmans,  Green  &  Co.,  1867.  xxvi,  559,  1  p.  plates  (partly  fold,  partly 
col.),  ports.,  24^  cm. 

Great  Britain:  Board  of  trade.  Earnings  and  hours  enquiry.  Report  of  an  enquiry 
by  the  board  of  trade  into  the  earnings  and  hours  of  labor  of  workpeople  of  the 
United  Kingdom.  1.  Textile  trades  in  1906.  London:  Printed  for  H.  M.  Sta- 
tionery Office,  by  Darling  &  Son  (Ltd.),  1909.  Ixxiv,  250  pp.,  tables,  fo.  (Parlia- 
ment; Papers  by  command  Cd.  4545.) 

Great  Britain:  Board  of  tra<le.  Earnii^s  and  hours  of  labor  in  British  textile  indus- 
tries. General  summary.  (In  U.  S.  Bureau  of  labor  bulletin,  July,  1909,  vol.  19, 
no.  83;  88-103.) 

Greif,  Wilfrid.  Die  geschichtUche  entwicklung  dor  Limbacher  wirkwarenindustrie. 
(History  of  the  development  of  the  framework  knitting  industry  in  Limbach.) 
Karlsruhe,  Germany,  1907. 

Greif,  Wilfrid.  Studien  iiber  die  wirkwarenindustrie  in  Limbach  i.  Sa.  imd  umge- 
bung,  von  dr.  Wilfrid  Greif.  (Studies  concerning  the  framework  knitting  industry 
in  Limbach,  Saxony,  and  vicinity.)  Karlsruhe,  i.  B.,  G.  Braun,  1907.  vii,  U8 
pp.,  24^  cm.  Volkswirtschaftliche  abhandlungen  der  badischeii  hochschulen. 
IX.  bd.  2  erganzungsheft. 

Giirtler,  Max.  Textil-indu.strie.  Leipzig:  G.  J.  Goschen,  1908.  2  v.,  illus.,  16mo. 
(Sammlung  Goschen,  184-185.)  (Deals  with  the  weaving,  spinning,  knittng,  lace, 
and  embroidery  industries.) 

Herrington.    Manual  of  power  knitting. 

Holeproof  Hosiery  Co.  New  ideas  in  merchandising  methods  of  retailing  hosiery. 
Milwaukee:  Holeproof  Hosiery  Co.,  1909. 

Hutton,  Clarence.  Hosiery  and  knit  goods  bleaching,  dyeing,  finisljing.  ('ompiled 
from  questions  and  answers.     Boston:  Lord  &  Nugle  Co.,  1913, 

25a 


BIBLIOGRAPHY. 


257 


J 


""CL^'Sl-  nS^o^^**""  N"-  '■    Co-Pi'ed  from  questions  and  answers. 
^N^le^'co'^**^'^  ^"^  ^-    ^"""P"^  ^'""  <1"«^»°«  »°d  <^^^-    Boston:  Lord  & 

^CC:  Urdit^ySo'^mr  """"    ^""P""*  '^-"^  ^"-*'<'-  -<i  ~- 
Knit  goods    New  York:  The  Haire  Publishing  Company  (Inc  )  raonthlv 

""^IJtl^^l^:^,  2^^^^''^--  ^^*--l  A..S  J;^^°r^re?nVd  Under- 

Knitters'  circular.    Leicester,  England  1894 

""^Twr-    '^"^■^'i»°«  "f  tte  national  association  of  cotton  manufacturers. 

''Tro^ef Fmnc'e'l'T''  '^  "^  ''"'"'^'""^-    (^■^*«"'?  ^'^^  «^«  ^>>^^^  -duatiy.) 

''z^jx^z^'zi^^,  '^r.i't^terc^-a^a^trand^r  ^^"■ 

of  patterns  for  circular  knitting  macWn^  LeiA  1^  Hepzis        ^''^P*™*'™ 

ST'  U  *l  r^"''^"^  machinery  and  embroi/er/.'  S  uXfi^I  Exhibition 
nf       iV    it       Commission  Reports,  vol.  3,  1891  i^xniuition, 

Clfc^o  i9^6.   ^"*  ^*^'  manufacturing.    American  school  of  correspondence. 

^l!^t\^-  ^-  ^?itti°g:  Practical  instructions  in  the  mechanical  details  of  all  tv™» 
nffi!.,'iVl*'°^-°'*^l"°^7-..*^'^''^''-  American  school  of  cor^ndence  1«»  ^^ 
Official  American  textiledirectory.    Boston:  Lord  &  NaMe  ('7  wm.al 

Po's^'lt  •  ^-  ^"^'"  "°'^  ^'^'  «'""^'  «"""  fil^^'  t»  '^l-ri"''  "delphia:  E.  A. 
Qumer,  James  H.  Fashioning  on  circular  rib  knitting  machines.  Leicester,  England, 
Quilter   James  Henry,  and  Chamberlain,  John.    Framework  knittino.  «n^  i,^„i 

E^".td%^  "sT'C  ""  *"'  '""^■''•'^  "'  '""^^^^  ^^^-  ^^^> 

J^|Sfr„^^|^SSb''y\'n\^^^^^^^^  "^  ^'^^^y, 

Rowlett,  William  Tertius.    Technology  of  framework  knitog^  'london:  VV.  Kent 

JSlS^)  ^^Jat-g^itSnt  Kib%^Sl;--  "-^  -  '^«  ^— '^■ 
Th^','1%7'1''  ""'■°"^-    ?,'^'»"^  ^"^  *  Nagle  Co.,  SXly         '  ^''^^■ 


'^i-P'^Jl??'  Ernest     The  scienVoflnitt^^^ 

fabrics  and  machine  knitting.    New  York:  John  Wiley^  s^ 


principles  of  knit 
(Inc.),  1914. 

Office.     1865.  inienor.     Washington:  Govenmient  Printing 

United  States  census  office.     Ninth  censiLs   1870      <?fQf:a+:«o    t  ^ 

ZVli',  ^r^  '^r  -/?-^  o?^e  United' sLir  "l^^X'  vif  1" 

the  United  States  at  the  tenth  ce^Ju^el'   ,f^P" V,"vH  "^T^^'^*'"''^  "^ 
Printing  Office,  1883.  '  '  ^*"-    ^^fi^limgton:  Government 

United   States  census  office.    Eleventh  census!    ison     p^^ * 

s&>gS^c'^i?«<i«'^-  ^'  *e^Snti«^n^nx.?,r'^G^;^ 

im'-  ""■  '^'''-    ''""^'''^  ''°-  2^«)    wLhl,;^r:  Go^rl^'nt  ^H^Z^'SC' 
""ment  Pr?ntfng''office.  "{m.   '''^-    ^l^'^'^'--.   1905.    Washington:  Govern' 
9963°— 15 17 


258 


THE   HOSIERY  INDUSTRY. 


United  States  bureau  of  the  census.     Thirteenth  <ensus  of  the  United  States  t^en 
in  the  year  1910.    Manufactures,  1909.    Washington:  Government  Printing  Othce. 

1912-13. 
United  States  Congress.  House  of  Representatives.  Committee  on  ways  and 
means  Tariff  hearings  before  the  committee  on  ways  and  means  of  the  Mouse  of 
Representatives,  Sixtieth  Congress,  1908-9,  on  Schedule  I,  Cottcm,  and  manu- 
factures of.  Washington:  Government  Printing  Office.  1909.  pp.  4590-4607, 
4612,  4613, 4615.  ^         .  , 

United  States  Congress.  House  of  Representatives.  Committee  on  ways  and 
means  Hearings  before  the  comnittee  on  wavs  and  means,  House  of  Represent- 
atives on  Schedule  I,  Cotton  manufactures.  Washington:  Government  Printing 
Office  1913.  6494  pp.  Paragraphs  327-328,  Hosiery,  pp.  3620-3625. 
United  States  Congress.  Senate.  Committee  on  finance.  Answ<!r«  to  interro^- 
torieg  propounded  to  manufacturers  by  the  committee  on  finance,  Sixty-third 
Congress,  first  session,  relative  to  the  bill  H.  R.  3321,  to  reduce  tariff  duties  and 
to  provide  revenue  for  the  Government  and  for  other  purposes.  Washington: 
Government  Printing  Office.  1913.  177  pp.  Statements  concerning  woolen 
fancy  knit  goods,  pp.  110-114.  ^     ,,         ■,     ^  j.  * 

United  States  Congress.  Senate.  Committee  on  finance.  Briefs  and  statements 
filed  with  the  committee  on  finance.  Sixty-third  Congress,  first  poftsion,  on  H  K. 
3321,  to  reduce  tariff  duties  and  to  provide  revenue  for  the  Go^  ernment  and  lor 
other  purposes.  Washington:  Government  Prititing  Office,  1913  3  v.,  2309  pp. 
Briefs  and  statements  concerning  hosiery,  pp.  1112, 1116, 1266, 1267. 
United  States  Congress.  Senate.  Select  committee  on  wages  and  prices  ot  com- 
modities. Statement  of  the  hosiery  manufacturers  of  the  United  States  as  to  prn  es 
of  hosiery  from  1900  to  1910.  Printed  for  the  use  of  the  select  committee  of  the 
Senate  on  wages  and  prices  of  commodities.  Washington:  Gov<^rnment  Printing 
Office,  1910.     46  pp.,  23  cm.  ^  t»  ■   . 

United  States  tarifflboard.  Cotton  manufacturers.  Washmgton:  Government  1  rmt- 
ing  Office,  1912.  2  v.  (62d  Cong.,  2d  sess.,  H.  Doc.  342.)  Vol.  1  pp.  128-U4 
193-198  Hosiery  and  knit  goods;  glossary  giving  statistics  of  the  industry  m  IMyy 
and  1909  from  United  States  census  returns  and  location  of  thc^  industry  in  the 
United  States;  description  of  products,  tariff  provisions,  production,  and  imports 
and  exports.  Vol.  2,  pp.  593-628,  Hosiery  and  knit  goods;  cost  of  production  of  men  a 
and  boys'  balbriggan  underwear,  men's  fleeced  underwear,  men  s,  boys  ,  and  ladies 
ribbed  underwear,  men's  and  ladies'  full-fashioned  hose,  men's,  la<lies  ,  and  child- 
ren's seamless  hose,  including  description  of  goods  made,  materials  used,  selling 
price,  etc.,  and  in  case  of  full-fashioned  hose,  a  comparison  of  c-o«t  ot  production 
in  the  United  States  and  Germany.  ^      ,        ^  r^         s  t^ 

Ure's  Dictionary  of  arts,  manufactures  and  mines.     London:  Longmans,  Green  &  t  o., 

1878.    Article  on  hosier^MU  vol.  2.  «  ,  oto 

Walton,  Perry.    The  story  of  textiles.    Boston.    See  pp.  92,  94,  212,  218. 
Watson   Kate  H.     Textiles  and  clothing.     Chicago:   American  school  of  home  eco- 
nomics, 1910.     252  pp.     Contains  test  questions  and  bibliographies. 
Willkomm,  Gustav  A.     Die  technologic  der  wirkerei,  1  u.  2  teil.     (Technology  of 

framework  knitting.)    Leipzig:  Arth,  Felix.    2  aufl. 
Willkomm,  Gustav  A.    Technology  of  framework  knitting.    Translated  from  the  Ger- 
man by  Wm.  Tertius  Rowlett.    Leicester,  England:  F.  Hewett,  2  v.  and  plates. 
Willkomm,  Otto.    Beitrage  zur  mechanischen  technologic  der  wirkerei;  ware  iind 
wirkmuster  anrundstiihlen.    (Contribution  to  the  mechanical  technology  of  frame- 
work knitting;  materials  and  patterns  used  on  circular  knitting  machines.)     1  v., 
66  pp.     Leipzig,  Germany,  1905.    Theodor  Martin's  Textile  Verlag. 
Worm,   Joseph.    Die  wirkerei   und   strikerei.    (Framework   and    other   knitting.) 
Leipzig,  Germany:  Max  Jencke. 

o 


m 


Date  Due 


IIOV2%t8d4 


^st\oi^^^ 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRAR^^ 


0041444264 


,.,.u-„,...,^n-w»wi..ii  II. .aw ■fr*-*-'"'*"  .111    .1  ^"-  ^ 


6-cwu  •^ 


ill 


* 
4^ 


^ 


CSI«J 


END  OF 

TITLE 


